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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 25, 2006 - 12:31pm PT
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Maybe we could put some neat stuff in one place.
The "Clean Climbing" movement was espoused and demonstrated in these catalogs, along with some "How To" diagrams.
Hmmm, 'Would love to see some old Chouinard stuff and some pertinent magazine covers, Mountain, Summit, Off Belay. . Ed Hartouni, I know you posted some of your stuff a while back, with the carabiner brake diagrams?
BVB you are the king of this sort of thing; Largo on Ripper Traverse "Climbing" mag, "Scumbag's" guide...
Along with Robbins' two "Rockcraft" series books and Chouinard's catalogs, this is how a few of us learned to climb.
This Forrest Catalog was published in '74 and still has the "Sport Chalet La Canada" price tag...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 25, 2006 - 03:11pm PT
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!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 25, 2006 - 03:52pm PT
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you can find the "seminal" '72 Great Pacific Ironworks catalog at the url:
http://www.climbaz.com/chouinard72/chouinard.html
and I agree with Jay about the stacking picture: !!
I never could quite figure out that method... mostly because I could never suspend my disbelief that it would work. Anyone stack out there? fall on stacked nuts, etc?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Jun 25, 2006 - 04:00pm PT
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I have stacked Stoppers in parallel cracks for aid climbing prior to Friends coming out.They are pretty bomber. I once stacked a Bong and a Stopper in a flared crack and surprisingly enough it held my weight.
Ken
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 25, 2006 - 04:12pm PT
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Ken, you are da man!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jun 25, 2006 - 05:08pm PT
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I picked up extra copies of the 2nd Chouinard "clean climbing" catalog back in ~1977, because they were kind enough to quote me on something. Still have those catlogs.
Diagrams in the catalog show how to stack hexes, stack stoppers, sling stoppers for stacking, and how to use bong-bongs as nuts, among other clean-climbing tricks. I never tried the hex trick, but the others all worked fine.
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blackbird
Trad climber
the south
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Jun 25, 2006 - 05:22pm PT
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stacked stoppers... used that trick a couple of times when that was all I had left on my rack... they worked (yup, inadvertently (sp?) tested the theory) but I'm not a big fan!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jun 25, 2006 - 08:05pm PT
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Vulgarian Digest - Spring '72
A classic...
Front:
Rear:
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Jun 25, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
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Is it just me, or does the guy in the center of the cover of that cover look like Karl Baba???
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Jun 25, 2006 - 08:58pm PT
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Nothing to contribute to the catalog thing, but I have belayed off of stacked big hexes in an OW. The trick is clipping the right one if the sucker flares a little. Also stood on a similar arrangement 2' off the ground prove that it worked. Took like 5 minutes to get that rig loose afterward, though.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 26, 2006 - 03:21am PT
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Warming up the scanner, anyone have the Sheriden cartoon with the climber & sheep?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 26, 2006 - 03:26am PT
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isn't in the anthology "Games Climbers Play"?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 26, 2006 - 03:48am PT
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I have the entire collection of VD.
(Should I rephrase that?)
I made an 8X10 photocopy of the Sheridan Anderson cartoon of the "bear/ranger" pointing right while straddling the sapling and showed it to the then Chief Ranger of Zion, Roger Rudolph (who has a cousin some call Largo), and he cracked up.
Within the week it was up at the end of the hall in the visitor center where climbers had to make a right turn to enter the backcountry office to get their bivy permits.
BTW I still have 35 year old EMS catalogs that offer half inch Chouinard angles for $0.90 retail!!!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 26, 2006 - 03:59am PT
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Oh, and regarding stacked nuts.
They work great.
Indispensable on the FA of Suburban Blondes (1979) and Gentleman's Agreement (1981).
By the time Mike Baker did the second ascent of the latter route monster cams were available but he was amazed by a roof having both a 5"-6" crack and a perfect lost arrow crack which had remained unscarred.
Stacked nuts, baby!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:46am PT
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Yeah I had that Forrest catalogue and the Chouinard one as well.
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scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:49am PT
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Ron has complete collection of VD!!!
Is the comic-book-style account of the 1st ascent of The Heart Route as good as I remember it?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 26, 2006 - 12:34pm PT
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"Is it just me, or does the guy in the center of the cover of that cover look like Karl Baba???:
Hey, I had more hair back then!
But if it IS me, what am I doing and why can't I remember?
;-)
Karl
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 26, 2006 - 02:20pm PT
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The issue you speak of Scufster has the cover pictured above.
My favorite part of Heart Attack was the, "For her outstanding performance in the swami belt competition we announce the winner of the Miss Lieback of 1970 Contest goes to-- Elaine Mathews"
And also mantling onto the summit expecting to be greeted by Royal Robbins with a bottle of wine.
The issue also featured "Obscenic Float Trips" and part 3 (its an ANNUAL publication!!) of Three Days On The White Mountains, the Gary Molzan comic about the shaving commercial with Royal Robbins gone awry, and a copy of the letter Playboy sent to Galen Rowell rejecting Warren Harding as an interview subject.
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Ain't no flatlander
climber
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Jun 26, 2006 - 02:29pm PT
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Sure stacking nuts was somewhat common BF (before Friends). It was a selling point of the Clog and Simond hexes. Anyone ever try the Leeper Anti-piton? Now that was a classic!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 26, 2006 - 02:41pm PT
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Let's not mix up our abbreviations Flatlander.
The term is in the years BC (before cams). Anybody trying to clean climb the pure parallel cracks of desert sandstone prior to their appearance knows what a pivotal event that was.
It truly was the dawn of an era.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Jun 26, 2006 - 02:42pm PT
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Didn’t Dale Bard have an article on jamming in a late 70s GPIW/Chouinard catalog? Someone should scan a page or two of that.
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scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
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Jun 26, 2006 - 02:47pm PT
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I think the title is Pumping Cracks.
I'd love to read that one again.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Jun 26, 2006 - 04:36pm PT
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Nice scans of the Dolt stuff. The stuff had great lines not to mention the ad copy. I wish I still had some of that gear.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 26, 2006 - 04:41pm PT
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Best stuff ever made. I still DO have some Doltpegs and keyhole hangers but I'm so scared of dropping them that I don't use them. That either makes a lot of sense, or none at all.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Jun 26, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
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Those skyhooks cost ~$42.00 each in 2006 dollars.
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Baldwin Park, Calif.
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Jun 26, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
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I still have my copy of the famous Chouinard Catalog. I got it in the mail from Great Pacific, so the postage stamp with the date are still readable.1973. I was "pretending" to go to school up at Chico State, Northern Calif, while my folks lived in Petaluma. Boy, did I get an education there, but it wasn't schoolastic!
That single publication (and the info there-in ) changed my climbing head as much as anything ever did.
Tony
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 26, 2006 - 10:47pm PT
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damn. how did i miss this thread? tarbaby, you gotta e-mail me when a scannerfest like this is in the offing. i got it ALL, know whut i'm shayin'????
going of to bed right now, but [inset arnold voice here] "hi'll bhe bhack.......!"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 10:51pm PT
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Bedtime?
Tuff day at the office Monsiuer?
Milk & Cookies kept you up late last night?
Your move Beebs,
Get teh werk please...
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Jun 26, 2006 - 10:55pm PT
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I'm pretty sure Sheridan never knew Chris Mac, but this is uncanny, don't you think?
Here's one that was never published, as far as I know.
RIP
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kevsteele
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:02pm PT
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Dale Bard's article (pumping cracks) was in the 1978 GPIW Catalog (lookin' at it now) pages 37-42.
back inside cover shot was Ron Kauk on Sky, credit Werner Braun.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:03pm PT
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the librian in grand county managed to con chouinard into donating his collection to the new library in moab...some great, never-before-seen sheriden 'toons scribbled into the margins of some of those books....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:06pm PT
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kauk on sky.
back in the day.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 11:13pm PT
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Man O Man,
First time I eyeballed that shot of Ron on Sky,
I knew I was looking at something mythic.
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kevsteele
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:14pm PT
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One word:
Foamback
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:56pm PT
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Isn't the 'Greetings from big Mac,' one the centerfold from the 1974(?) calender in Summit that featured the months in alphabetical order?
Yesterday I was up to the armbar ranch, where I keep those things and didnt' grab it, or Games Climbers Play with the sheep cartoon d'oh, d'oh!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2006 - 12:22am PT
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Foamback, Ugh.
Darn near filled the whole rucksack with one piece.
Big Al Bartlett probably had the longest lived piece in existence; all tattered, fullaholes and homeless garb lookin'.
And I don't know what the big fuss was all about with pile, it's not like that toilet seat muff cloth ever caught on or anything...
Hey JayBro:
What and Where is the arm bar Ranch!
Can I punch Dowgies 'N Stuff there?
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Jun 27, 2006 - 12:30am PT
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Tried to scan the Mar. 73 Summit cover, with a Sheridan drawing
It shows a Chock sporting boxing gloves with a Piton KO'd with a background similar to Larry's post above.
I'am a tard when it comes to this sh#t, it has to be out there in cyberspace somewhere.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 27, 2006 - 01:15am PT
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The armbar ranch is the only place in plumas county ca with an extant foamback cagoule. And a wooden ow roof crack. Gotta bring yer own doggies but you can heat up your brand on the wood stove.
Photobucket is currently balking at loading my vintage scans. hang on
Okay here's the first of a series
below, from '73 ascent
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 27, 2006 - 01:41am PT
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This is excellent stuff!
I have "Baron von Mabel's Backpacking", "The Climbing Cartoons of Sheridan Anderson" (both by SA), "Belaying the Leader" (Sierra Club, 1956), and "Ropes, Knots and Slings for Climbers" (Walt Wheelock, La Siesta Press, 1960). Plus a near-complete set of Mountain magazine. If I had a scanner, and a good copyright lawyer, there might be some good editions to audition to addition. (Though some might fit better in the 70 year old guidebook thread.)
If I remember rightly, the Anderson cartoons were up to the mid 1970s or so, and so may not directly lampoon Stonemasters. When I have a chance, I'll look in Mountain for Stonemaster references - I know there are some. Be interesting to find the first use of the name.
Anders
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 27, 2006 - 01:52am PT
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My favorite from the Sheridan Anderson calender in Summit was the ad for Pervitin featuring "famous alpine daredevil, Hermann Ghoul".
This guy was fried!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 27, 2006 - 02:15am PT
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I redally don't know why p-bucket is so slow tonight.
mine is still too warm!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 27, 2006 - 02:44am PT
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how about Quirky guidebooks '79-81?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 27, 2006 - 03:04am PT
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Farther into the 80's
Note glaring Typo
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jun 27, 2006 - 07:24am PT
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Sandstone towers and El Cap ... the 1970 Ascent spoke to me.
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PDHMAN
Ice climber
Eastside of ....
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Jun 27, 2006 - 08:59am PT
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My Four BIBLES!
Within, one of my favorites!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jun 27, 2006 - 10:14am PT
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Ok, I had to rummage thru the archives a bit before I found it. For all you out there that need to refine their crack technique a bit.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2006 - 10:48am PT
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Jaybro:
I had Snow Lion stuff.
They pioneered a thing called the "Footsack" a bulbous section at the end of a sleeping bag.
Photo by Rowell on that cover?
Plus, there was the fully baffled Behring Parka.
A lot of the baffles failed.
I still have a pair of the booties...
(Veda-Voo would blow the lid off spelling bee's world wide)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 27, 2006 - 11:05am PT
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I've got a pair of those booties, beats proppane bills.
I also haveone of those footsack sleeping bags kind of mummmy bag bellbottom.
Did you note the more common word misspelled?
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kevsteele
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jun 27, 2006 - 11:07am PT
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The cover photo of GPIW 78 was of Cerro Torre by Ruedi Homberger. A poster of it was available for $2.50 from the catalog.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Jun 27, 2006 - 11:16am PT
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Unlimited - quite funny!
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Jun 27, 2006 - 12:38pm PT
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Anders,
Between Muir and Myself I think we had all of the mountain magazines. I have posted most of the references to the “Stonemasters” in the following link.
Stonemaster Scrapbook
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2006 - 12:48pm PT
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That's a nice bit of archiving in your link there Graham.
The last one, 1980 Mountain isn't showing yet: is that the cover with Lynn bouldering in J Tree, photo by Vogel perhaps?
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Jun 27, 2006 - 02:09pm PT
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Thanks Roy, I'll check it out later.
off for a bit of fun...
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jun 27, 2006 - 04:49pm PT
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Steelmnkey, that didn't work, any other suggestions, otherwise I know there is more than one thread in the forum where people have given advice about posting pix, so I'll try to figure it out.
Damn, I think Spain were cheated. Henry play acted to get the free. I use to like France but Spain was playing thebetter football in this match.
Ooops, wrong thread for football.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 27, 2006 - 04:54pm PT
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Patricks images/links:
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jun 27, 2006 - 05:01pm PT
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Hey Russ, thanks. What's the secret? What was I doing wrong?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 27, 2006 - 05:15pm PT
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Thought you were at the pub? (lucky bastard!)
I just went to the php pages and had the image open in a new window to get just the image address. Then use lower case for the img tags.... seemed to work.
Just hold down the mouse clicker and choose something like "open image in new window" to get the absolute direct link. Then pop that address into your img /img tags.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jun 27, 2006 - 05:21pm PT
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Yeah Russ, that worked, thanks again. Now let's see if I can get around to posting some pix of people (including myself) on the rocks.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 27, 2006 - 06:31pm PT
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Umm, "Elements of Style"? Is that a hint?
Mike G: Thanks for the stonemaster.org reference - will have a look.
Anders
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 27, 2006 - 07:29pm PT
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Wasn't EB White famous for something else?
Oh yeah, he invented the modern climbing shoe! based on a concept drawn by James Thurber!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 27, 2006 - 07:35pm PT
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"Veda-Voo would blow the lid off spelling bee's world wide"
Imagine it in Jeopardy™!
"Translated as 'Earthborn spirit' from the Shoshoni."
bzzt
"what is Eldorado, Alex?"
"Sore-y"
Bzzt
"What is Ahwanee?"
"Sore-ry"
Bzzt
"Sorrowery, we're out of time."
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 27, 2006 - 10:53pm PT
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EB White also wrote the classic children's book "Charlette's Web", not to be confused with "The White Spider", or "Mussy's 'Neb", for that matter....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2006 - 11:12pm PT
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I named a route Big Al Bartlett and I did out in JT: Charlotte's Web...
The latttice (or lettuce) of coincidence is astounding, eh Beebers?
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jun 28, 2006 - 07:28am PT
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Yeah Jaybro, but he didn't want to take credit for it, that is why it was blue, not white.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Ouch!
climber
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Oct 17, 2006 - 05:53pm PT
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RRK
Trad climber
Talladega, Al
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Oct 17, 2006 - 11:06pm PT
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"I never could quite figure out that method... mostly because I could never suspend my disbelief that it would work. Anyone stack out there? fall on stacked nuts, etc?"
till just a few years ago I had a couple of the double-nut sets - 2 on a sling,little one on top - on my regular rack. I think Bridwell or some hotshot from wayback thought it up. You could slide the big one down and use the small one independently, slide the big one up and use it independently, or stack them in several configs. Seems like I've fallen on them stacked but can't remember the specifics (oldtimers disease). I gave my last one to Andy Hayes from Frisco a couple of years back when I jammed one of his in something on Lumpy . I still use the middle sized Titons and just took a medium sized dump on a #6 a couple of weeks ago. Never launched on a stack of titons - never could overcome the "spinchter factor" when setting it up. The old drilled hexes were tapered to allow stacking but I could never make that work either. The nuts were ok to stack and I could show you as much as I know about how to do it if you're interested. You'd need nuts that would take a sling (Campbell nuts, etc) which aren't that available anymore. Freakiest thing I ever climbed over was a hook tensioned by an inverted Crack-n-up pulled together with a cord and B-lock cut off a backpack. Just proves that the Fool-Killer doesn't work every day.
RRK
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Oct 17, 2006 - 11:29pm PT
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About 1980 I'm a Punk Kid at the Local Backpacking/Mountain Shoppe checking out photos of guys climbing at Joshua Tree. That was the first time I had ever heard of climbing, and I was asking some questions.
The Hippie behind the counter sent me home with a couple old Mountain Mags and a Great Pacific Iron Works (Chouinard) Catalog, ca.1979, hoping it would generate enough curiousity in me to buy some of their gear.
The Chouinard Catalog had instructions on opening a beer bottle using a carabiner. That was the day I knew I wanted to be a climber.
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s. o.
Trad climber
academia
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Oct 18, 2006 - 06:08pm PT
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From pumping cracks
“finger cracks: the smallest members of your body that you can place into a tight crack are your finger tips.”
Not true for everyone
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RRK
Trad climber
Talladega, Al
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Oct 18, 2006 - 08:26pm PT
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"From pumping cracks
“finger cracks: the smallest members of your body that you can place into a tight crack are your finger tips.”
Not true for everyone "
Seems like a great time to make a pitch for my Stealth-rubber condom. Gives men an unfair advantage at the crags. We offer them in regular, large and Jumbo, color coded to Camalot sizes (ok we also offer some coded for WC Zeros). They give new meaning to the term "cod-locks" (something between finger-locks and rattly hands). So the next time you see that rock-stud copping a no-hands rest on some heinous piece of overhanging friction you'll know how he did it. You can do it too. Ask your doctor if Stealth-rubber condoms are right for you. Side effects include smoke and/or fire when used for sex. Make your check or money order payable to Right Reverend Kenny. Act now and I'll send along a nifty removal tool for those times when you've set the placement. See the RRK holiday gift catalog for other unique and innovative climbing accessories (e.g. windstopper underwear - why didn't you think of that?)
RRK
PS remember the Coonyard climbing pants with the huge back pocket. They advertised the rear pocket as being large enough to hold a pint of liquor - it was. What a great sport this is.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Oct 18, 2006 - 08:54pm PT
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couchmaster
climber
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Oct 19, 2006 - 01:11pm PT
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Real great stuff on this thread: thanks for starting it Tarbuster.
Trying to get some pics posted, so bear with me. If they don't come through I'll look around for someone to blame:-)
These cartoons are from a hardback book called "Belaying the Leader", by Dick Leonard, Arnold Wexler, William Siri, Chuck Wilts, David Brower, Morgan Harris and May Pridham. They had printed this stuff in the Sierra Club Bulletin in 1946, and when that got out of print they decided to collect what they thought ws important and put it in book form in 1956. The Sierra Club was the publisher.
Plenty of interesting good stuff in it besides Mays cartoons. Particularly interesting to me were tests done given the actual test results of strength ratings of knife blade pitons and expansion anchors by Wilts. There is a table of rope strengths as well, comparing cotton, jute, hemp, sibal, saran, Beales manila, Frost’s English Flax and various nylon ropes. Anyone wants to see that stuff just ask and I'll scan it and burn some more bandwidth:-)
Ken, if you want/need this book for the museum it's your's, shoot me an address and I'll send it down. Spine and cover are pretty good condition, some of the pages….well, kind of rough condition here or there.
Thanks for the advice Tar, I had tried Picassa first because I like Google so much, they looked great until I went to bed then woke up this morning and pics were gone from the Taco! Still on the Picassa site however.....hmmmm. Photobucket is working, great advice - got it covered.
Regards and enjoy:
Bill Coe
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Oct 19, 2006 - 03:32pm PT
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Here's the original Tri-cam brochure, 1979 or 80.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
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I think I'm gonna help the Taco-Belles out and post that guy in the Tri Cam add onto the sexiest climber thread...
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couchmaster
climber
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Oct 19, 2006 - 04:30pm PT
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Tar: you want to get everybody good and wet? Get that color version of JLowe freesoloing Bridalveil Falls. Not this old B&W.
My palms are wet and sweating just thinking of it. Course, if the women get wet......nevermind.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2006 - 09:59pm PT
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Hey Couch Master:
Would luv to see yer pictures,
Here's a quick tutorial (email me if you need more help and we'll talk real time).
scan pictures and save to my pictures
open up adobe photoshop
file>browse folders>my pics>select the prize
enhance>lighten, darken, contrast, & whatnot for ledgibility
image>resize to 600 high and 700 wide at the outside
"save as" at about 70-100kb (for load up efficiency) unless there is text, then maybe 200kb
go to:
http://www.photobucket.com
and get a free account
In photobucket: browse>my pics>the prize>upload
Click and highlight the lowest tag, or the one that says IMG (looks like[img] in the window)
File>copy
Paste that copy into the reply box of the Taco
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