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Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
WalkerSkyRanch
Trad climber
Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 29, 2013 - 12:17am PT
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Anybody know how the Croatoan climber who took a huge leader fall on Finger Grib is doing? He was helicoptered to Riverside county Saturday afternoon after RMRU hoisted him off the jungle ledge.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Apr 29, 2013 - 12:56am PT
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If anyone has info please post. If he's from out of country please let us know if there is anything we can do to help. Lynne
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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Maybe 'Finger Trip'?
Hope there's a speedy recover!
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Damn this looks high
Trad climber
Temecula, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
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Fingertip Traverse, 5.3 is the original. Fingergrip is a 5.8 variation, Fingertrip is a 5.7 variation.
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alleyehave
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
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He was picked off of Jungle Ledge apparently, which more or less rules out Fingertrip. Sounds like he fell on Fingergrip or the layback section on Fingertip Traverse..both of which are directly above Jungle Ledge.
Hope he's okay.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
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The article says he fell 20-30 feet. There appears to be no update on his condition, but it sounds like (or at least I hope that) the injuries did not threaten his life.
There was an interesting internet discussion/rant following the linked news articles, though. One commentator asserted that the whole SAR apparatus wastes taxpayer money simply to save "daredevils" hurt in the course of pursuing their hobbies. The responses would surprise no one who has watched public reaction to helicopter-intensive rescues (this one apparently had three on call).
I did read one defense of free rescues that I had not heard offered before: If rescues cost money, people would be afraid to call for them for fear of financial liability, and would therefore end up dying unnecessarily. Those of us who like to climb in the same sense that we like to breathe sometimes forget that the rest of the public doesn't see climbing as we do. I don't think I could offer that particular explanation to a non-climber with a straight face.
Off-topic musings aside, I hope he is well on the way to recovery.
John
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WalkerSkyRanch
Trad climber
Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
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The climbers first name was Teen, anyone heard anything about his condition
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 30, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
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That sounds... odd. Les is RMRU and might have been at the scene, he solos routes like that all the time...
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WalkerSkyRanch
Trad climber
Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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I assisted in the Rescue, so I can clear up what exactly happened. Tin was unable to help himself down or up due to his injuries. He was in considerable pain, and with a possible hip,neck, and head injury.
Climbing to him or rapping to him would not of been an issue, but with his injuries and our concern for his well being, the helicopter was the only answer to getting him off the rock quickly. Putting him in a litter and lowering him was not an option as he would loose consciousness anytime his feet became lower then his heart, and a ride down that pitch in a litter and a walk out down lunch rock trail would of not been pleasant for him at all. That would of only worsened his injuries in my opinion.
Thanks Eric for the update, I am very happy to hear he is doing OK, please pass along my good wishes to him,
Just to clear up what Eric said
Quote: 'An interesting note: From all reports the helicopters were completely unecessary but were called because none of the SAR folks could either climb 5.3 or had ascending gear of any kind.
We where the only SAR team there and only called when all the other options where exhausted., All of the personal there where Firefighters "Cal Fire and Idyllwild Fire" and you are correct they are not equipped or trained to climb or rappel. People confuse SAR from fire fighters and convict crews, that happens all the time. As for me and my partner that day we had the ability to ascend, rappel, ect, but Tin's injures merited the copter insertion and extraction.
Les Walker
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WalkerSkyRanch
Trad climber
Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
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Eric, not at all, it's all good, I am just happy he is ok. I sent you a private message.
funny example of reported rescue.
We rescued 2 guys of off Finger Trip Traverse last year in the dark and fog, it was reported by the media that two hikers where found on rock and escorted back to their car.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Apr 30, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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Glad Tin is doing ok and wish him a speedy recovery.
Most SAR guys I know would not want the victim footing the bill, heck, the SAR guys live for this kind of thing and jump at the chance to do what they have been trained to do. Same goes for the pilots. It's kind of like firemen not going fires, we always complain around the firehouse about how slow it is and how we never go to fires anymore. It's fun and satisfying to actually do the work you where trained to do.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Apr 30, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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Best wishes to your friend Eric. Like you said, we all run it out periodically, and stuff like this is nauseating to hear.
Phyl
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umump
climber
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Last Saturday, April 27th, around 1:30 PM I fell on Tahquitz rock above Idyllwild in South California, on a route called Fingergrip, the 5.8 slab/dihedral pitch above the “Jungle Ledge”, a very easy climb for me. I was a hand’s reach from the bolted anchor when I slipped. I was injured in the fall and quite helpless after it. I had to be rescued.
This was my first climbing injury. I’ve been a climber since the high school days in the late 70’s. I climbed around the world alpine, trad and sport, at all elevations on rock, ice and snow. My pastime used to be soloing 300 meter faces in the 5.9-10 range.
As if my past was my warranty, as if I were entitled to safety, I optimized my climbing to that, to “it won’t happen to me.” I wasn’t there 100% on Fingergrip. I didn’t visualize a few moves ahead. I didn’t check how I executed them.
This is how the fall felt:
My left foot slipped, not a problem. Then - with increasing interest - I looked at my hands as they pulled from the rock, too. I was suspended and surprised in the thin air like a cartoon character for that one moment and it felt like this is how it’s going to stay. Plenty of time to ask myself how many times have I corrected an imperfect move just a bit, without a glitch. I thought this part of my character.
Then the slow motion kicked in: I gradually peeled off. Lost contact with the rock. Took the rope to keep it up. Looked down the slab to see the path I was to pass inevitably. Checked the last protection. The orange Alien was well wedged in the crack below me. 30 feet below me.
For I’d decided to runout a 5.8 and take a risk of a 60-70 foot fall, not a matter of great concern or even choice in many harder climbs, but this time - was I lazy? Cocky? Feeling invincible? I remembered talking to myself during the last 30 feet: don’t fiddle with the nuts, your smallest cam is not small enough, it’s easy enough and you’re almost there.
What bothered me now was the lack of a safe plan for this long, non-vertical slab fall. I hate doing things without a plan.
No whistle of wind picked up with speed, no hit, no nothing. I just woke up in terrible pain hanging by a screaming rib-cage a few feet above the belay stand. Kathryn remembers me moaning like an animal. I remember begging her to be lowered to the ledge to relieve the suffering.
Half an hour passed at the margins of consciousness, hours shaking in shock. Kathryn hovered over me, profoundly soothing and calm. Lei too, a solo climber who came to help and called the rescuers. Time and pain were one and the same. The sky was a blue lid over it. Then two shadows lowered from this lid, from a big bird cutting its blades into the cliff. One said, I’m Les - he’s Lee. They strapped me carefully into a gurney, with inhuman effort got me into a position to be hauled up to the bird. Kathryn operated the GriGri. I was utterly helpless. Full of gratitude. Thank you Les and Lee, thank you Kathryn and Lei, thank you pilot and copilot.
I was rushed into the Riverside hospital where they suspected broken hip, ribs, fingers, neck and brain hemorrhage. Quite a list, so they kept me. The kind hospital personnel dismissed one suspicion after the other, until on Sunday afternoon I was cleared to go home. The fall truly spared me - I was just bruised like hell.
We’ll never know what happened in those 2-3 seconds it took me to fall. I was knocked out, Kathryn was breaking the fall and watching the rope. It seems plausible that the rope tightened and pulled me backwards into the dihedral where I hit my right side and my head.
Lessons learned?
I felt entitled to climb this climb with ease. This was based on things I climbed in the past. Yet I was supposed to earn it. We earn each climb, again and again. The climbs go through their subtle changes, get dirty, wet, holds get lose and break, and I’m certainly not the same from day to day.
I should have been focused, and if not, be frank about it. Take a rest, take a whole day.
Climbing takes constant optimization. (Body positions, power output, rest, protection placement, time, weather assessment, steering clear of falling rock/snow/ice, positions of the belay stations and overnight camps, things you carry, etc.)
What was I optimizing for when I placed no gear for 30 feet? I was sure I wouldn’t fall. Hubris, invincibility - I chose to optimize for that, rather than safety.
Now it will be interesting to see how will I deal with and optimize all the runouts where the first ascenders left potentials for truly long falls.
Thank you for all your good thoughts. Happy climbing! And obligatory: climb safe.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, umump.... whewwwwwwwww, oh my.... :O
glad to hear you are going to be well and made it through this...
i did not see this the first time around, or, i'd be
praying for you then... sure will now, as you continue to recover,
god bless...
happy too, that all the folks that rescued, were kept safe throughout this,
too...
edit: khanom, please check your email... :)
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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That was a great and introspective write up.
I am so glad you are going to be ok!
We all have been over confident at one time or another,
One of my mentors use to say "place pro early and often".
Words to live by!
Props to your partner, the soloist and the rescue crew!
Thank you,
-ezra
Edit: Tin, were you wearing a helmet, and would it have helped/ did it help?
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ncskains
Ice climber
Alaska
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Glad your gonna be Ok to climb another day. Heal up quickly and get back out there!
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Thanks for the report Tin. Wishing you fast healing and a full recovery. Wow!
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
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That was a great and introspective write up.
I am so glad you are going to be ok!
I agree. An amazing self critique
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Sobering. Be careful out there and always
pay
attention.
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rock grrl
Trad climber
CA
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Thank you for the report, I heard the helicopters while I was in Tahquitz and am glad to read you are well enough to make this introspective post.
I wish you a speedy recovery!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Then - with increasing interest - I looked at my hands as they pulled from the rock, too
That was by far my favorite line from your write-up. :-) Masterfully understated.
Really glad you're okay, and really impressed with your introspective, humble reflection on the experience.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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don’t fiddle with the nuts, your smallest cam is not small enough, it’s easy enough and you’re almost there.
Been there 100 times. Thanks for your report, it is greatly appreciated. Here's to a life of ups and downs and a zillion more climbs.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Wow... glad you made it.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Glad you are ok!
Could have happened to anyone.
The perilous work by the rescuers is appreciated by all climbers.
Rick
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Thank you very much for the honest and introspective post. I am glad that you are ok and hope to see you on the rock soon!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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shit happens,
glad you are ok and great report,
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Umump, great write up. I very pleased and a little amazed that you were so relatively unscathed and will be all right. Sobering indeed.
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Fluid
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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One of the most thoughtful, honest, and beautifully expressed post mortems of a climb gone wrong I have come across, something rare here. Having recently climbed too far above my gear, fallen, and still recuperating from the broken ankle, I recognize myself only too well. A joy to read.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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bump for quality!
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jabbas
Trad climber
New River, AZ
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Very few First Person crater reports ! I bet you were amazed at the lack of severity of injuries . 30+ footers are evil and I am glad you are whole. Get well soon to climb another day.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Francisco
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Hi Tin, that was really well written. Glad to hear you're on the mend. Healing thoughts coming your way...
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Fig's Lady
Social climber
Bishop, CA and Tucson Arizona
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I am glad to read another thread about safety. I can never have too many reminders of the importance of being present in the moment, with a plan, a good partner and good pro.
Thank you sharing and speedy healing.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Thoughtful report. Thx.
Gear is good.
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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This is the taco at its best. I'm so glad to hear you scraped by without dire consequences Tin. Remarkable experience, thanks for sharing your thoughts with all of us.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Wow, very well written! Scary as hell. My best friend and climbing buddy did virtually the same thing on the first pitch of the south face of Washington's Column. He grounded. He broke his wrist and elbow and needed about 100 stitches but lived to climb again, even onsighting up to 5.12. That first pitch is easy after the short 5.8 corner, so run it out, eh? He doesn't remember what happened. His elbow does give him some complaints now and then as he nears 50. I still wish I could climb as well as he.
BAd
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Props to your (new) perspective and to all that helped you.
Glad you are recovering!
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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So glad to hear you are okay. It's very good luck to not have some serious injuries, and to have people there who could help, and to have enough rope to be able to lower back to the ledge.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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AMen. Heal fast. Learn a lot. Teach a lot.
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Bad climber ; was the grounder Peter Kohl? I recall he did cartwheels down that route.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Great first hand report, and, a good reminder to all of us...!
Glad to hear you weren't hurt much worse.
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Ryans
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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May 13, 2013 - 11:54am PT
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That's what I've been thinking. I read the first hand account several times to make sure I fully understood. I also went up there this week to check out the accident site.
There are definitely no bolts on Fingergrip. He said that he was within "hands reach" of the bolted anchor and 60-70 feet off the Jungle. The other interesting bit of info he included is that his only piece of gear was an "orange alien". I assume he means an orange Metolius, which is a common size for El Camino Real. At the cruxy section of El Camino, you need small cams, specifically green/yellow Alien size.
In my mind, all the signs seem to be pointing to El Camino Real.
Any chance umump can give a more detailed account of the route he was climbing?
All that said, I'm glad he's okay and it was thrilling to read a first hand account of a fall like that. I've never read anything like it.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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May 13, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
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Sounds like he was on "The Angle Iron Traverse" if he was going for the bolted anchor at the top of"El Camino".
Can't think of any other bolted anchors in the vicinity.
The move past the fixed pin where it crosses "FingerGrip" is the business and it is fairly easy ground the rest of the way except for a harder move to finally cross over to the anchors.
That matches his description of what happened closely.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 13, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
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glad you're healing, man.
thoughtful write up indeed
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Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
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