Yosemite Bolt Wars

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James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 26, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
I wrote a bit about the latest Yosemite Bolt War on my blog. Check it out
Yosemite Bolt Wars

hagerty

Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
Apr 26, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
I think you were wrong to remove it.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Apr 26, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
Seems like a historical landmark to me, one that means allot to all kinds of people from all over the world. Erasing it, Why? So you can write about it on your Blog?
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 26, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Blow me...
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Apr 26, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
Good riddance, who needs to be reminded of history?

This thing should be scratched out too:


And there's a bunch of petroglyphs at Donner Summit that need cleaning too.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Apr 26, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
Heh...
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
It's pretty funny for you to make the statement "does climbing need these trademarks?" after you have taken it upon yourself to be the judge and jury... maybe you should take a bit of ownership and say "I have decided for the world that we don't need these trademarks"

Who cares if people like taking a picture next to it? If Photogenic Euros annoy you don't boulder there, tie in and go get some exposure.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
Just a bit of self-indulgent writing is what I saw.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
Sounds like an old-dog who is over the hill, past his prime, still feels the need to pee on a fire hydrant.
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
fool...
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
That memorial to Raffy Bedain really pisses me off. I'm going to pull it out.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
You have written better James. I'm fine with you scrubbing it off. How will people find it now? That is the question....
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
Sounds like an old-dog who is over the hill, past his prime, still feels the need to pee on a fire hydrant.

But, he's not an old-dog. I remember when James showed up in the Valley, a talented noob, getting in over his head... just like the rest of us were bitd.

The Midnight Lighting chalk never bothered me. In fact, it releases a ton of memories. Mostly of failure and falling off the bolt hold, time and time again, ha ha. It's a piece of history, IMO.

James, if you really want to make a difference you should go on crusade of erasing all the big ass letters that universities, colleges and even high schools graffiti on the mountains and hillsides of every big town and city in the US.

Now THAT would be a proud and a worthy cause. Eye soars, IMO.
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
Booooo!
ana dablam

climber
mother earth
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
elementary school quality writing. sorry i clicked.
Nkane

Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
The magic left the bolt years ago.

The magic may have left your heart, but not mine.

JBoydston

climber
Deep South
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
Why did you need to remove it and spray about it on the internet?

After laying my eyes on El Cap and Half Dome for the first time, the next thing I wanted to see was Midnight Lightning (with the lightning bolt, of course).
sharperblue

Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
go send 'Massively Inflated Sense of Self Importance', V12, and impress us all. Christ, talk about first world problems. what the f*#k ever.
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
James, I never said the Euros did it! , I said "It was The French" that put the Bolt back, for photos. Anyway Bless your Heart, you mean well. DF
Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
I hope I never meet you...I already don't like you.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
Rising above the noise to catch Internet eyeballs must be getting harder and harder. Is bad attention really better than no attention?

I would personally have more respect for someone who spent the same amount of time going on a hike and picking up trash. Plus a lot more people would be supportive of that than tearing down a symbol to which a lot of people attach meaning. It obviously carries a lot of meaning for you too, or you wouldn't have focused your attention on removing it.

I had never spent the time to consider whether it was an eyesore or not, but common social graces would dictate that one considers group sentiment on a group resource before acting unilaterally. On the other hand, the same could be said that Bachar acted unilaterally to defile the rock without consulting the tribe. Who knows. Tempest in a tea pot. Better to just climb.
Baggins

Boulder climber
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
james, I read your previous post about hueco and thought it was a wonderful narrative about the intractable access issues there. You really struck the right balance between hearing both sides of the argument.

In this case, I think you've misjudged the climbing communities' fondness for this bit of bachar's graffiti. Although it has proved an interesting experiment!

You say time has made it irrelevant. I disagree, time has done quite the opposite.
lubbockclimber

Trad climber
lubbock,tx
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
First you suck at writing. Your blog is a joke. I've been looking forward to seeing that lightning bolt ever since I started climbing. This summer will be my first trip to Yos. You have stolen some of the magic from trip. Maybe you go to a art museum and paint over some paintings that mean nothing to you. What the f*#k gives you the right? You are a f*#king d#@&%e bag. I hope somebody slaps some sense into you. Why don't you go pick up some trash instead next time and leave the history alone.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 26, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
Why did you need to remove it and spray about it on the internet?

For attention, duh.


It is either a great prank/troll, or a pretty foolish action. If Bachar himself drew the original and it became part of that boulder/problem, why f*#k with it? Aside from getting attention on internet of course....

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 26, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
Haha tough crowd.
NA_Kid

Big Wall climber
The Bear State
Apr 26, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
That sucks. Its not like the Columbia Boulder is way out in the middle of the woods, it is smack dab in the middle of Camp 4. A trademark of Yosemite Bouldering. The "Bolt" looked way better than that polished stone bench sitting under the boulder.

Why just erase the Bolt? Why not clean the chalk off of all the other holds? It's the same stuff isn't it?

Baggins

Boulder climber
Apr 26, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
But u just erased some history, that my boy JB did

Prolly not the first time this has happened...
willm

Social climber
Oakland
Apr 26, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
The bolt was redrawn. If you're upset about what James did, the best thing to do might be to pretend it never happened and deprive him of the attention.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Apr 26, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
Although this latest article might not be the best example, I think James is an excellent writer , and I really enjoy reading his blog . I also have a tremendous respect for the effort and dedication he put into his recovery after his crater in Jtree.

As for the bolt , who cares , seems like it is here to stay no matter what James does... get over it .
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
Tough crowd.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 26, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
Dammm.. yu got some bawlz... ZERO heart/brain..

I suggest you throw yourself at the mercy of the valley and the climbing gawds contained therein. Claim temp insanity. If you dont admit that, i wouldnt give ya a snowballs chance in hell of coming out of this unscathed. Meant in the most literal of sense.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Apr 26, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
could be a troll..anybody gone looking to see if the bolt actually looks scrubbed and re-dubbed?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 26, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
but you can never take back what u destroyed.

+1.

Dude, it was drawn by Bachar. Even though it can be chalked up again and again by whoever, WHY THE F*#K WOULD YOU ERASE A LINK TO A HISTORIC CLIMBER (that is by now dead)? Yes, it could be drawn again, but if it isn't by original author, it is irrelevant now. Might as well draw a big penis on it. How much do most people care about looking at a fake Mona Lisa?

Everyone have opinions, but actions are actions. You f*#ked something up for everyone else, in a way that can't be fixed. (if it isn't a troll, which I hope it is!)
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Apr 26, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
Sorry James, but that was a true lapse of judgement.

I'm sure your motives to remove this made sense to you, but in this case it was misguided imo. Maybe you have spent way to much time in Camp 4 getting jaded to "the scene" and the constant inflow of new climbers? Best if you had conferred with those that have been around Camp 4 much longer than you. Many of us, (Whom don't make it to The Valley as much any more) still smile when passing that lightning bolt, reflecting on the years and appreciating the historical symbol of what it meant for our era.

Rock climbing, as a sport, may not be around in a hundred or a thousand years. However, that lightning bolt hopefully will live on as a symbol of those who were exploring the envelope of what was possible, at the time, in our era.

Reading that blog reminded me of my feelings of hearing of the Taliban blowing up the monumental Buddas of Bamiyan in 2001; A piece of history needlessly destroyed.


Edit: Can anyone confirm that the original was removed, and not a troll from someone with nothing better to do?? Seems awfully strange that someone would bother to write an account of this.




pelut espania

Big Wall climber
Espania
Apr 26, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
Hola mi Americano Dogs! I too left my marko in the Nationals Park and you stupid Americanos erased my art! Eat my chorizo you American dogs and look to my art and A6 with art at base masterpieces are not the graffiti of my people but art. My art is big and your chalk art is on a boulder! Ha! You dogs! Viva Espania!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Apr 26, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
Credit: justthemaid
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Apr 26, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
At a boy...




Ya goof.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 26, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
Callin' troll on the whole deal - blog and thread.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 26, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
James, you seem like a decent guy. That being said, I believe the bolt is one piece of street art that should have remained. I never did the thing, so I have no laurels to rest on, just my impression. I mean JB his-own-self drew the thing, and it's only chalk.

Really curious about the motivation here, to out trad the purists?

What other purist things have you done that warrant such an act on your part?

Good luck keeping it off there....


And on a lighter note: How did everything become a "rig" to be "sent?"
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Apr 26, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
Classic Coz! Thanks for making me smile. I'm sure James knew it would be put back and it will be there for the foreseeable future.

"Not sure why Dean, my friend is being nice to u, or sucking up...

But u just erased some history, that my boy JB did, I don't care who you think you are.

Basically you're a dork, and a fool, and should apologize to the world wide climbing community.

Your action seem attention grabbing... Maybe Mommy wasn't too nice to you, but you can never take back what u destroyed."

StevenStrong

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 26, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
I would think, at minimum, a person would want to be able to successfully do the problem before contemplating messing with the bolt image. Especially one that people obviously hold as a strong symbol of history in the Valley.

Steve
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Apr 26, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
what a $#%&* *&^%$ %#$@ d#@&%e bag....?
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Apr 26, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
lucky for you i dont beat up retards...ive drawn a line there
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Apr 26, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
Oh f*#kin bloody hell, Sir loin's out of retirement! Batten down the hatches and duck!
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Apr 26, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
Whats the big deal here? That problem is kinda ugly anyways. And if you need to have the lightning bolt there to show where the problem is then I don;t know what to say. The bolt is just inflating your ego if it has to be there in the photo of you attempting it. Despite being in the middle of a campground It think we need to strive to stop leaving such eyesores. I'd rather see lichen and rock in its place.

Coz, Bachar's original chalk is long gone at this point. So whats the difference.

I respect James as he thinks out of the box.
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Apr 26, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
drag me out of my reclusive bliss ...for some ..wow people are stupid..all you people who support lumen boys efforts are straight up dip shits..
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Apr 26, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
Not that I've ever climbed the thing, or stood at the base of it but I feel inclined to chime in and say (respectively) that I don't think your actions were right here.

It is no one persons place to decide what is right and wrong and what should or should not be removed. If it was your boulder problem and people were drawing sh#t on it well then you might have a case but there is history to that problem, and history to the bolt itself.

Add to that the connection to Bachar (RIP) and you should have known you would ruffle a few feathers.

I'm not going to call you names and threaten you, that's not my style but if this is true and not a troll, your actions seem rather disrespectful and saddening really.

Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Apr 26, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
ya walk through the cesspool we lovingly refer to as camp 4...and are offended by chalk on a boulder..oh we are cleaning up the eye sore eww we are so cool...i have climbed it not that it matters and i lived in camp 4 for 10 years and walked by it daily...you and your panty waist pansy assed buddies are IDIOTS..
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
Apr 26, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
hahahahaha!
WBraun

climber
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
The thing is still there as of an hour ago.

Did something die?

Or someone just redrew the thing back up there?
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
if you did it u suck if you trolled it...well i do love a good troll..
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
As I remember, you kinda loved dwarfs and midgets, to.
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
the heart wants what the heart wants walleye
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:15pm PT
James, you better not f**k with the graffiti in the 2nd bathroom stall. There are some gems in there that transformed my life perspective when I first arrived in Yosemite and hung out at the C4 bathroom all the time, surrounded by mooks, basking in the fact that I was then, at that moment, shitting where legends shat...
WBraun

climber
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
James never cleaned anything completely to begin with.

Removing the StoneMaster "lightning Bolt" and leaving the man made black carbon behind it from the campfires
that used to be there in the early days shows incomplete consciousness.

In other words "Stupid Americans" think they're cleaning or restoring something
and only doing a half ass job and then thinking it's complete.

Ho Mannn

James .... you have earned a date with the "K Dorm Flasher" .....

Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
I just recieved an email from james mom, she says its not really his fault ..he suffered a traumatic head injury while being brutally molested by a small herd of wild goats ...
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
I always thought that lightning bolt was ugly.

Good riddance.
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
dipshit
Some Random Guy

climber
Under a Little Pink Umbrella
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
Might as well draw a big penis on it

hmmmmmmmmm..............
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
the bolt will always be there..you cry baby posers can erase it..but it will always be back..
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
I'm with JakeW, there is some classic graffiti in the toilet stalls. My favorite- "Are all climbers bi?"

I mean, they do spend a lot of time walking around without shirts admiring their bodies. Lot's of lonely and cold nights in camp 4. No sheep in the park since John Muir....?
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
there are these lovely creatures called women..
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
Congrats James, you sure showed those old farts who's the new boss.
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
Apr 26, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
finally, some controversy
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Apr 26, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
Too bad they got rid of all the Deli tables with all that fine art drawn by bottle caps.

Ken
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Apr 26, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
priceless history
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Apr 26, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
Beauty is in the eye of the be(er)holder.
Ken
Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
Apr 27, 2013 - 12:06am PT
James Bike
James Bike
Credit: Snowmassguy

I found the bike James rode over to the boulder to do his work
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 27, 2013 - 12:38am PT
This may be just what James was after. He couldn't think of a better way to be the new Bad Boy on the block.

Cleaning up a little chalk in the middle of C4, that is a little backwards if you think of it....
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Apr 27, 2013 - 12:42am PT
all the Deli tables with all that fine art drawn by bottle caps.
One of my great regrets was not not getting a photographic document of said table art. Some of thet stuff was truly priceless
Mittens

climber
Apr 27, 2013 - 12:59am PT
You were totally out of your element in removing such a historical symbol that has endured over 30 years in Camp 4. Undoubtedly, chalk markings on boulders, from tick marks to lightning bolts, can be an eyesore and should generally not be accepted in a natural setting. However, the historical significance of the lightning bolt far outweighs it's perceived unsightliness (by some). By removing the bolt you have removed a small part of Yosemite's climbing history. Why not remove 'Starry Eyed Man' in Hueco? Is it also no more than graffiti in a natural setting? Time is what distinguishes graffiti from history and the lightning bolt has endured enough time to achieve a symbolic reverence not unlike the petroglyphs Hueco, albeit on much shorter scale. If I drew a chalk shoe on the Blue Suede Shoes slab, it would be erased in a day and gone forever, as would any chalk drawing on a newly developed boulder. But the bolt was different, and you erased a valuable part of climbing history that would have endured another 30+ years and will surely appear again, expressing the vanity of its removal.
Additionally, I find removing the bolt and sharing this post more than a tad egocentric and rabble-rousy on your part, especially considering that you've never climbed the thing (cite: 8a.nu). Now, I know it shouldn't make a difference on an ethical basis whether you have or haven't done it, but when you put the time into the Lightning you develop a personal connection with its symbolism as the catalyst of modern bouldering. You removing the lightning bolt would be like a hiker attempting to remove bolt hangers from a route because their sight detracts from his/her natural experience. Totally out of your element. Anyway, It'll surely return, and unfortunately all you have done is marred its history. This blog post came off to me as snooty and pompous and if you had true wilderness ethics and public service in mind, you wouldn't made a spectacle of it. Statement noted.
(Copied from my post on his blog)
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2013 - 01:04am PT
The caliber of this crowd rose above and beyond my expectations
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Apr 27, 2013 - 01:05am PT
I suppose now the powers-that-be will note that climbers support graffiti.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 27, 2013 - 01:13am PT
I had to look up what "solipsistic" means.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 27, 2013 - 01:35am PT
Ohhhh, as in lightning bolt. Now I get it!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 27, 2013 - 01:51am PT
I really don't have anything constructive to say about this.


keep it classy James
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 27, 2013 - 02:22am PT
The Sleestak cell planned it all.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 27, 2013 - 04:11am PT
10 points for stirrin up the panties of this overly nostalgic bunch. -8 points for the anxiety that the action (if real) is making me feel. I have traced it with my hand and have imagined all the fingers that also touched the exact location marked on the stone. But nostalgia is dumb, so you are still up 2 points.

Peace.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 27, 2013 - 04:17am PT


my friend Michael sending this like a champ

"sick"
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Apr 27, 2013 - 05:35am PT
Having lived in France for the last few years where most cliffs have route names painted on the bottom, fixed lines and re-bar rungs for 3rd class bits on approaches, and of course bolts on everything it's so funny how touchy people get in the states about stuff like this. Never mind the roads you drove to get there and all the other man made stuff that creates our world, but something like the lightening bolt is a problem? Or a route name on a chunk of rock at the canyonlands?
The whole idea of being the eco-warrior climber is laughable, but all the companies sure can market it to us yanks...
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Apr 27, 2013 - 07:30am PT
What Would BURT BRONSON Do? (WWBBD)
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
Apr 27, 2013 - 08:50am PT
James has certainly stirred up the the climbing community... Perhaps some of us are overreacting a bit though? It's not like it was the original bolt - Bachar's chalk was likely long gone before James' cleaning. So prior to the recent erasing, was the bolt not exactly what it currently is now - a copy of the original? As others have said, it has already been redrawn, so the icon still exists... So then what differentiates the new one from the old one? I hear the French are pretty good artists fwiw...

Then again, what the hell do I know?
Matt's

climber
Apr 27, 2013 - 09:50am PT
a couple comments

1) the actual midnight lightning climb is the true testament to kauk/bachar, more so than any chalk drawing.

2) climbers don't own the park. no one owns the park. think about what the park would look like if every "next-generation boulder-problem" required its own iconography.

3) i think what most people are upset about is the fear that the current/future generations of climbers don't learn about or respect their climbing fore-fathers.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Apr 27, 2013 - 10:24am PT
I wouldn't be surprised if some of the people upset about this weren't also anti-chalk. ;-)
Ian Jewell

climber
Apr 27, 2013 - 10:39am PT
someone should start a thread about the graffiti in the camp 4 mens bathroom , in that one stall.

to paraphrase " we went to the top of upper falls in an hour and a half, beat that"
the guy had a weird name , like caleb or clarence or something.

"are all climbers bi ?" "just sport"

"f*ck you american pseudo intellectuals"

my second or third year there , someone had put stickers all over that were cartoon porno pics of the flintstones, like fred doing betty , and wilma blowing barney.



meeeemories , like the corners of my mind , misty water colored meeemories ...
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Apr 27, 2013 - 11:11am PT
Flush twice, it's a long way to Texas!
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Apr 27, 2013 - 11:42am PT
What I think is pathetic is how attached people are to this illegal piece of graffiti.
Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 27, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
Actions of one selfish person acting alone trying to get a reaction.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Apr 27, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
Climbing Midnight Lightning over twenty years ago is one of my best memories.

That piece of graffiti has nothing to do with it.
WBraun

climber
Apr 27, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
It's chalk Randisi over the top of carbon soot from campfires.

If you are so worried about it the clean it off yourself and and get the carbon soot off too.

But you won't.

You'll sit on the internet and bitch .......
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Apr 27, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
I am 9,000 miles away, Werner. :p

Stoopid Americans!
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Apr 27, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
I love this thread. A bunch of grown men acting like babies and arguing over some chalk marks...
David Wilson

climber
CA
Apr 27, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
The chalk that was removed could be preserved at the yosemite climbing museum in a carefully labeled clear glass vial

a CSI style forensics team could assemble historical photos of the original lightning bolt, the one actually touched by Bachar. Ron and Werner would be hired as expert witnesses ( this is a positive ). The bolt could be recreated in epoxy based paint and certified as accurate by all authorities.

Or we could just go climbing like James actually does most days......
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Apr 27, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
Hey James,





___
| |
| |
| |__ you!
| | | | |
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 27, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
Why not sack up and fix it right with spray paint.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Apr 27, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
not sure how i feel about this...kind of f*#ked up
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 27, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/22892/OZ-not-a-rap-route


I think James just likes stirring the taco pot every now & then.


Gene

climber
Apr 27, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
It's only a short lived gesture by the OP. The icon has been replaced on the altar. Just a minor footnote in our history, soon to be forgotten.

g
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Apr 27, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
Well put Gene
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 28, 2013 - 12:39am PT
It's only a short lived gesture by the OP
He did this under the cloak of darkness (night) knowing that he'd catch flak for it in front of everybody in the light of day. It's not too farfetched that next time it will be with a sledge and chisel to erase the route or something.
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Apr 28, 2013 - 12:52am PT
Who is "james" next to Bachar or Kauk?

this is his only claim to fame except falling off of north overhang in JT and living to tell about it!!

What has he done of note in the climbing world?? I haven't heard about it but am waiting to hear of it!!

Bachar and Kauk are THE HEROES for alot of us...at least for myself...I always dreamed of doing what they did...what I did do was much less but it was the best memories I have....

MUCH LOVE to all the climbing community!!

Go DONINI on the NIAD!!!!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Apr 28, 2013 - 12:53am PT
^YES!!
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Apr 28, 2013 - 01:01am PT
Oy vey what a shitstorm. I tend to agree with the who do you think you are crowd.

Last year I had a bit of an epic removal from the base of New Dawn due to a medical issue. I bitched so much at the hospital that they ended up tossing me in an ambulance and dumping me in the C4 parking lot at like 3AM.

The next morning I was wandering around generally feeling like sh#t, and I happened to walk around Columbia and to the base of Lightning. I knew it was there, of course, but hadn't bothered to go look at it.

Seeing that bolt, and knowing the history behind it, absolutely floored me. And seeing it made my head clear, and made me realize how much this sport means to me. And I knew right then that even though I had gotten my ass kicked, I was still going to climb, and that everything was going to be ok.

I really don't think you have the slightest idea what that drawing means to some people. And I don't think you had the slightest right to choose to erase it.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 28, 2013 - 01:12am PT
Spray paint.
WBraun

climber
Apr 28, 2013 - 01:18am PT
I like James

He's a good guy.

Besides the lightning bolt got washed off naturally one winter anyways by Mother Nature herself.

I watched it happen in real time.

So ...... Blah blah blah blah.

You get the idea ....... :-)
wannabeen

climber
Apr 28, 2013 - 01:55am PT
I see James also chipped the "sika reinforced" hold off ML... doing the goid work
rurprider

Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
Apr 28, 2013 - 09:52am PT
That fall off of Intersection Rock REALLY messed him up!
Prod

Trad climber
Apr 28, 2013 - 10:58am PT
Ed H, called this an Iconoclastic Act. Seems a little more like the act of a pechulant child craving attention.

Prod.
orle

climber
Apr 28, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
Or a pechulant child with a Moses-complex craving attention, Prod.

And Moses went down from the mountain, but upon seeing the calf, he became angry. Moses burnt the golden calf in a fire, and ground it to powder.

Then Moses stood in the gate of the camp, and said: 'Whoso is on the LORD's side, let him come unto me.'

~Exodus 32:20
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Apr 28, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
James is probably a christian.

The religious are always so self-righteous.

I heard through the grapevine that there's a bounty on him now.
Some Random Guy

climber
Under a Little Pink Umbrella
Apr 28, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
^^^ how much?

maybe i can enlist the services of the chief to track him down...
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Apr 28, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
george jones dies,

then the rock,

two white lightening deaths in the same week,

this just in

climber
north fork
Apr 28, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
Troll. It worked.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 28, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
I like James

He's a good guy.

Yes, but Werner, you also believe that the Boston bombing was a Hollywood TV set, and in nine headed elephant Gods and stuff, so we have trouble taking your word for it....
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 28, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
Ya? Maybe.. It would be possible with photoshop. Anyone have an updated image? That would solve the question..

I would never dream of erasing something so historic myself. Even the nps seems to like it as they haven't sent a ranger to scrub the offending marks off over the last 30 years.

Will this be what brings their focus on the subject??
this just in

climber
north fork
Apr 28, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
Haha. That made me smile Bruce.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 28, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
A possible NPS perspective is that C4 is a vernacular cultural landscape and the bolt is a significant and identifiable part of that landscape. Jus' sayin. The only thing we know is that the OP did it when he would not risk confrontation, then blogged about it, then went to sites like supertopo to provide links to the blog. Massively lame no matter how you cut it.
lubbockclimber

Trad climber
lubbock,tx
Apr 28, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
I've been reading your blog, it sucks a lot. I saw your trip to Texas. Come back and try that Sh#t where I climb pussy.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Apr 28, 2013 - 11:06pm PT
The lightning bolt has changed over time. I remember the old one, but it took upkeep.

Once I hadn't been to the valley in several years, came back, and it looked very different. It had been totally redrawn.

WBraun

climber
Apr 28, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
Why is Base 104 the only one else that knows this?

Is Supertopo stuooopid?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 28, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 29, 2013 - 12:28am PT
It wouldn't change much if it was reinforced with spray paint.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Apr 29, 2013 - 12:40am PT
Why is Base 104 the only one else that knows this?

Is Supertopo stuooopid?


That was always my understanding, that it has been erased and added back as the line is sent again. It would obviously change as a bunch of different hands drew the bolt.

Which, of course, only means "erasing" the bolt and then writing a crappy blog article about it to show what an earnest, really deep guy he is makes this extra stupid.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 29, 2013 - 03:40am PT
James threads are always fun to read!
Fishy

climber
Zurich, Switzerland
Apr 29, 2013 - 06:20am PT
James, I feel some of your pieces are really well done.

Finding new subjects for powerful or entertaining essays must be really tough.

But this action was really a bad idea.

One doesn't have to speak quietly in a Church; but this respectful tradition is still observed even by visitors or non-religious folk, because it does mean something to others.

I would like to admire you for both your actions and your words. But even the best writing cannot compensate for a subject that is manufacured or artificial, hurtful or disrespectful.

I am looking forward to your next blog entry - another great one I hope.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 29, 2013 - 09:35am PT
Good for you James. Way to follow your heart, and go and do. Instead of all the blow hards in here.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 29, 2013 - 09:42am PT
when ones pees on a memorial, dont be surprised at the equal and opposite reactions.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 29, 2013 - 11:25am PT


Good for you James. Way to follow your heart, and go and do. Instead of all the blow hards in here.


-1

the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Apr 29, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
The blog post and OP here smacks of trolling, but I did't want to say that early and ruin the fun.

What's really interesting to me is the bolt itself.

In my romanticized imagination I guessed that when you sent the problem you got to re-trace the bolt to 'keep it going'. And under hundreds of layers of chalk was the remains of JB's original bolt. Maybe I'll keep believing that.

I also like the permanent un-permanence of the medium. That is: chalk drawing is temporary, it won't permanently mar the beauty of the rock nature graciously dropped in the middle of Camp 4, but it is permanent through the loving reapplication of the original image by many like minded climbers, contributing to the history and community artwork it has become.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Apr 29, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
This blog post says what I thought: when you send it you get to trace it.

http://www.scientiaclimbing.com/2011/12/yosemite-rest-days/













Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 29, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
James, stop skulking around under the cover of night with this ridiculous attention-seeking. Do something useful - like get back in the kitchen, crater-boy, and bake me a pie.

James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Coz-

Mother Nature took off the lightening bolt a few times. Other climbers have erased the bolt before. In both cases, and in my removal, the bolt returned. In the current incarnation, the bolt returned with a little more life to it.

I saw the lightening bolt as a trademark. People focused more on this bit of chalk then the climb or the people who embodied the spirit of it. For the week and a half the bolt was gone, I saw the line that Ron and John fought for, the cool start that Jerry established, and the crimpy face that Ron did.
I've walked by the bolt thousands of times in my decade of living. When the bolt was gone, I got to see more of Columbia.

In my discussions with the people around Yosemite and certainly on Supertopo, I've found that the people who mind don't matter and the people who matter don't mind.

guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 29, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
James- you sir, SUCK....

Stop trying to make yourself "Matter" you don't and never will.





Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 29, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
I've found that the people who mind don't matter and the people who matter don't mind.

And who are you to decide whose opinion matters and doesn't? What is your criteria? If you want to do good for the community go clean up bathrooms or something. That lightning bolt became something more than just a drawing over time.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Apr 29, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
James,
"In my discussions with the people around Yosemite and certainly on Supertopo, I've found that the people who mind don't matter and the people who matter don't mind. "

EVERYONES opinions matter, including yours. But yours did not trump those of others. Perhaps this is where you were misguided in your thought process when you took it upon yourself to make your opinion more important. And yea, blogging about it was the height of d#@&%ery.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 29, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
James I'm beginning to think that your attitude is far more G-H-E-TT-O
than the bolt could ever be.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 29, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
James said:

blah blah blah, wank wank wank

Enough spray, where's my pie, boy?

Since you fancy yourself a writer, two points:

1. What "trade", pray tell, was taking place under that "trademark"?
2. Lightning. Unless your tubby ass is on a diet, then it might be "lightening".
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 29, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
That drawing/watercolor on the previous page is amazing!



James seems like a dude with a good sense of humour & a decent guy who loves climbing. It's obvious though how his inability to apologize to those who were affected more deeply by his actions & grudgingly maintain a stubborness that he is still "right" for doing something that probably wasnt even worth mentioning & then spraying down in multiple outlets don't do him any favors here. James you are right that actions speak louder than words but in this case why were the words so necessary? What did u have to prove by reporting this? If you had posted that you spent the day cleaning all the tick marks in camp 4 & picked up a bunch of tape & butts off the ground in the boulders you would probably be a hero even if u did buff the bolt. It was your delivery that was antagonistic & deservingly, incited this response. Never hurts to say sorry if u piss someone off. I don't mind much really because it is climbing related & a hilarious read although I can see why others would be pissed.

Just to stir the pot a bit though, and not like it matters at all but, u ever climb midnight lightning James?

Guyman, easy on the death wishes.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Apr 29, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
Same guy who "scowered" in some other post. I can see some spinning of wheels for a career in the rags, but he may have to back off the 'tude (and beef up the editing) if he wants to hawk his pablum to the climbing masses.

edit: Well stated, RyanD.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Apr 29, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
Being a deliberate d#@&%e bag, and then blogging about it is the height of arrogance. Get help James, your narcissism is hardly original and always ends badly.

Okay, nearly always, except for this guy

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 29, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
James, why not do it in the light of day then? If you are so certain of your convictions, why not just do it out in the open instead of tell us after the fact?

If you were really commited to this you would have stood up for what you believe in rather than seeking the cover of darkness.

Edit to agree with Ryan 100%, yes that painting is awesome!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 29, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
It used to be if you wanted be recognized in the Climbing WORLD you had to send big...

Now you just do something stupid and post on STopo....

Thank you for the internet Al Gore.
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Apr 29, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
I have never climbed Midnight Lightning. V8 is a bit steep for me. I have sat at the base and looked at the route. I have seen the lightning bolt and felt a connection to the past, to great climbers that have come before me and paved the way for my marginally average exploits. I am willing to bet that I am not the only one that had this experience.

James, I don't know you except by what you have written here and on your blog. Based on your writing and the erasing of the lightening bolt, I can say with the utmost certainty that you are a selfish, self-promoting d#@&%e. Please, go f*#k yourself you little attention whore.
KyleO

Gym climber
Calgary, AB
Apr 29, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
I dont really get it... seems like a bad idea to mess with legends lore!
Al_Smith

climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 29, 2013 - 04:06pm PT

It really doesn't matter, but inquiring minds want to know:

Have you climbed it?
Mees

climber
Apr 29, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
Come on guys, he really dug deep for this one and deserves to be praised for his accomplishment. Y'all are just jealous for not thinking of this first.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 29, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
I could have blogged about learning to place heads on valley boulders, but nooooooo, I kept my as#@&%eness humbly to myself. Wait, oops.
Prod

Trad climber
Apr 29, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
Speaking of erasing James....

What did CCMBA and Diarmuid Duggan say in the comment section of your Blog page? Seems the Administrator erased their comments, just curious.

Prod.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Apr 29, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
I like Michelle's address.

That's it.



-JR
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Apr 29, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
James,

You're an idiot. Your blog is dumber than any other blog, ever. You're too fat to do that problem anyways, maybe that's why you erased the "bolt"? Regardless, you're a fat dumbass. Aaaaaah, much better now

EDIT, this is what I meant to say:
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 29, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
What did CCMBA and Diarmuid Duggan say in the comment section of your Blog page? Seems the Administrator erased their comments, just curious.

What's CCMBA?

Probably filled with four letter words and thinly veiled threats for ass whoopin' or some such.
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
They were deleted for foul language.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Apr 29, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
Props for thinking up a way to piss a bunch of people off without really hurting anything of any significance and at least arguably cleaning the place up a little bit. That's some good moxie!
Matt Thomsen

Big Wall climber
Places
Apr 29, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
Nice James!

I see no problem with removing it, even though it will return...

See ya soon!
micronut

Trad climber
Apr 29, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
I'd rather see the bolt stay, and have you erase all the chalk above if you want a project to clean something up.

I think it's magic. Graffiti from a magical era. An iconic image of an iconic time.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Apr 29, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
This guy is the f*#king climbing Taliban, erasing art and justifying it in mirthless tracts of writing! I want drone attacks and collateral damage encompassing half of C4 and chunking off a piece of the goddamned Columbia boulder itself and miraculously forming the face of Bachar himself as a memorial to the fallen heroes who have ascended before us! I want blood! I want a goddamn sandwich to pump up my falling goddamn blood sugar!

edit: Whoo! Thanks, Hank, for the inspiration! This does feel good!
Mark Not-circlehead

climber
Martinez, CA
Apr 29, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
Re- posting from the other comment I left on his blog page:

Your a f**ing idiot. That image is a defining idol in the climbing community. For me it has been a lifelong pursuit. Be a climber for 20-30 years, poll your peer group, be committed to your position before taking it upon yourself to decide for the rest of us, whether that bolt should remain or not.

Otherwise, I might decide, without the agreement of my peers, to remove your front teeth if I ever run into you in the Valley.

And I this post gets removed for my (non-felonious threat of a misdemeanor battery), I'll be done with Supertopo as well.
Prod

Trad climber
Apr 29, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Your a f**ing idiot. That image is a defining idol in the climbing community. For me it has been a lifelong pursuit. Be a climber for 20-30 years, poll your peer group, be committed to your position before taking it upon yourself to decide for the rest of us, whether that bolt should remain or not.

Otherwise, I might decide, without the agreement of my peers, to remove your front teeth if I ever run into you in the Valley.

Haha, So are you CCMBA or Diarmuid Duggan?

Nice post. Almost as artistic as removing the bold.

Prod.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 29, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
Have you climbed it?
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 29, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
It's back
So let this thread die.
Mark Not-circlehead

climber
Martinez, CA
Apr 29, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
The FET wrote:


"In my romanticized imagination I guessed that when you sent the problem you got to re-trace the bolt to 'keep it going'. And under hundreds of layers of chalk was the remains of JB's original bolt. Maybe I'll keep believing that."

This was the belief that was instilled with me when I first came to the alley in the 80's.I don't know if that was really ever the case, if it's fallen out of favor, or what. But I still like the idea that you had to earn the right to re-trace that lightning bolt. I can't imagine what you would need to do to earn the right to erase it.

I'm in my mid 40's now, and have a renewed interest in sending it properly, not on top rote, as I did in the 90's. I like the bolt. it means something to me. It defines a big part of my life.....and I plan on tracing over the chalk lines when I send it this summer.

If someone wants to wantonly piss on that.....I'm okay with it. Really, I am.....Just don't be surprised if I start taking some societal liberties as well.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Apr 29, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
i agree with coz..
totally lame move. done for what reason i am not sure.
if you want to make an impact. scrub some chalk off the hundreds of problems in the valley.
or better yet rebuild the landings, do some trail work, pick up all the trash in the boulder field.
once again. totally lame maneuver and even worse to blog abut your action knowing full well the response you would get.
congratulations..
Mark Not-circlehead

climber
Martinez, CA
Apr 29, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
Prod,

No, I am not CCMBA or Duggin whatever in the blog post. On the blog I am listed under my full, legal name. I have nothing to hide from.....
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Apr 29, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
james, i just realized that your name rhymes with lame.ss
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Apr 29, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
Some of you who know JB should take a moment and reflect on what he'd say here. Cause I don't believe it would rankle him at all. (Old John, can't say for young John who seemed more intense).

What do ya say? Coz? Steve S? Werner? Dean F ? Ammon? WWJS? ie, What Would John Say? Serious question. Maybe that's part of the issue for you folks getting upset, that John isn't here, and you are sticking up for him in absentee. ? I dunno.
Big Joe

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Apr 29, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
"The magic left the bolt years ago." That you needed the cover of darkness disproves that silly statement.
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
Apr 29, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 29, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
BWA HA HA HA hahahahaaaa!!

Fuggin' Supertopo rules.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Apr 30, 2013 - 01:09am PT

.....
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 01:17am PT
The rangers busted me too.
Credit: James
I spoke with the prosecuting attorney at the Yosemite Courthouse. I escaped monetary fines but my community service involves graffiti removal. Plus, the "volunteer work" requires 150 hours of crushing.

Looks like I'll be training on Colombia.
KyleO

Gym climber
Calgary, AB
Apr 30, 2013 - 01:51am PT
Delusions of grandeur
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Apr 30, 2013 - 02:04am PT
Hey James. No one cares. Now go f*#k-off.
drewsky

climber
Seattle
Apr 30, 2013 - 03:41am PT
Extra blog hits and endless discussion in online forums = mission accomplished. The attempt at poignancy falls somewhat flat; however, if all publicity is good publicity, the stunt is a success. So it goes.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 30, 2013 - 05:05am PT
Hey asshat, nice try with your "citation." I went to FLETC. 36 CFR --- blank. Nice try. Never met you, and if this is a standard-issue ST troll, hats off. But I'm not getting that impression. You need attention. This is not a good venue. Maybe get a dog?

Eagerly awaiting your response.

And again: erasing the bolt at night, undercover, then blogging -- chickensh#t. Get a life. Or is this your life?! Nevermind. Feel sorry for you.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 30, 2013 - 11:27am PT
hmmm.... yeah, bad move. I'm glad that it's been redrawn already.
Gerg

Trad climber
Calgary
Apr 30, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
So if history is worthless then we should disregard it all- memorials hhmmm?
I hope the mags don't publish his name so he can keep a copy to tack on his wall. Sure this is gonna be front page news.
Climbers from all over the world really feel a connection to this piece of grafitti regardless if they have climbed it or just taken a photo of it.

James, do you, or have you taken photos of touristy, historical sites regardless of how insignificant? Why not a Vietnam memorial next James? or the shack in Cali hills where Twain penned The Jumping Frogs of Calveras County, like really someone could build a nice 2 car garage there.

I don't think your in tune with any part of climbing than your new age blog.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Apr 30, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
I'm gonna go climb the Pyramids.
DanaB

climber
CT
Apr 30, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
**I like Michelle's address.

That's it.**

Damn! Thanks for pointing that out, I didn't notice. Must have watched that scene a dozen times.

"The hotel, where I live. It's not fancy or nothing."
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Apr 30, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
Extra blog hits and endless discussion in online forums = mission accomplished. The attempt at poignancy falls somewhat flat; however, if all publicity is good publicity, the stunt is a success. So it goes.

Good one Drew.

I'm guessing that you're the Drew who stayed at my place in SLT with J a few years back?
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 30, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
Ha! Yup.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Apr 30, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
THIS IS A BIG DEAL.


Flood of '97 washed it off, it gets put on and off again every so often. If you get incensed at James, well, that's why he did it. Bolt is back to look me in the face while I flail* all over it.












*theoretically. I have this thing about NOT TRYING iconic problems unless I have some sort of a chance of doing them - no need to grease it up with my noobness! Mandala, Midnight Lightning, they are plenty greased up without my a-hyuck moments.
altieboo

Sport climber
Das Blase
Apr 30, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
Perhaps this was all an "experiment" to see if people care about such a thing. Seems as if people do care. Which is a great thing.

So, experiment a success? Failure? All of the above?
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Apr 30, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
Seems as if people do care


... I would change that to 'some' people care , and the majority of those that do will post on this thread .

I can assure you there are many people who do not give a damm... And see this as much ado about nothing
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
Apr 30, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
Most people might not care, but most climbers do.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Apr 30, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
It's interesting that many people are calling it a memorial.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 30, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
It is a connection to Bachar. That stuff is important imho. His physical mark upon the valley. Among many.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 30, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
Damm skippy its a MEMORIAL. As much as any can be.
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Apr 30, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
The more I think about it...and I have a gift for seeing both sides to every argument...that was quite the lame toast thing to do. I've been climbing 35 years and I LOVE the lighting bolt! What in the heck were you thinking? Do you actually ENJOY pissing people off? Does that make your life seem more fulfilling?

The part that really blows my mind is hiding at night to not arouse a real life negative response, and then spraying about it on the internet! Who does that???
drewsky

climber
Seattle
Apr 30, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
Brandon: that took me a second but yes, same Drew! Been a while.

I think people are overreacting to this. Giving it the attention required for long, crafted responses is giving it too much attention. This really seems like something targeted at all those here who can't help a knee-jerk reaction and subsequent posting sprees.

I find myself without strong opinion although something about the attention grab doesn't sit well with me.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Apr 30, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
I can't see any good reason to phuq with it other than to get a rise.

Like trying to piss off your little brother or sister because you can.

Hell no I didn't send.

Credit: S.Leeper
covelocos

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Apr 30, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
Bull.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 30, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
This sounds like the kind of thing someone who shot that deer with the bow and left it running around the valley wounded last fall would do.

However the odd thing about all this is how easy it is to put it back. Hell Ron Kauk can put it back if he wants. Anyone can. It's probably the only sanctioned (or at least tolerated) new graffiti in a national park. An appropriate exception.

The bolt is immune to damage so it's not the erasing that bothers folks. It's the ancient war of young vs old. For the older it's the memory of our heydays and a disrespect of them that hurts.

The OP knew what he was doing at least as far as kinda spitting in folks faces. Just like the guy who put the crucifix in the pee bottle and pretended it was art.

Though I doubt even now he really understands what he was doing and why. He is young and still has a lot to learn about himself. Not all of it will be a pleasant enlightenment.

Hurting peoples feelings is something most youngsters do for fun occasionally. Some folks grow out of it. Part of his statement is to make fun of those he imagines as less hardcorp than himself also. He seems to need a position of superiority as part of the new generation valley local hardcorp scene.

Look at me I'm badass and you are merely an imposter not worth my consideration. I remember being like that. I grew up. He probably will also. Killing the monkey on his back seems involved also. As if doubts he can quite measure up to his heroes. The bolt seems to have been a real distraction for him somehow. He seems to think it was becoming more important than the rock. Clearly it was for him. There is a lot going on in that young psyche.. as is usual for the driven young climber.

Yep a new generation of legends is crafting itself in the Valley. Some will be remembered for their climbing some for other things. Hopefully James will not have too many regrets.
Heyzeus

climber
Hollywood,Ca
May 1, 2013 - 12:05am PT
Peaches- overall, I think your writing has improved. You're saying more with less, so good job on that. Your piece spoke to me, and your blog post also had good history and photos,so I liked the read. I interpret your action different than the majority here. I get what you were going for, and even though I love the bolt, I support your action. I think you probably love the bolt too and what it represents, that's why you did what you did. It's a little pretentious, but I dig the spirit nonetheless. Keep killing the Buddha.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
May 1, 2013 - 12:20am PT
It is good that James is getting a lot of attention. It sets the standard for d#@&%e baggery. His name will forever be associated with acts by cowardly attention whores.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
May 1, 2013 - 12:23am PT
Kind of like a "Munson"
thebravecowboy

Social climber
Colorado Plateau
May 1, 2013 - 12:34am PT
dbclt

climber
Charlotte
May 1, 2013 - 08:23am PT
Peaches- overall, I think your writing has improved. You're saying more with less, so good job on that. Your piece spoke to me, and your blog post also had good history and photos,so I liked the read. I interpret your action different than the majority here. I get what you were going for, and even though I love the bolt, I support your action. I think you probably love the bolt too and what it represents, that's why you did what you did. It's a little pretentious, but I dig the spirit nonetheless. Keep killing the Buddha.

please. don't paint this fool to be some ego-less saint. it's the height of egodom to take something that thousands of people care about and destroy it for personal reasons.

anyways i don't think he ever erased it at all. i think he wanted to see everyone's reactions, which is almost as bad.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
May 1, 2013 - 08:53am PT
its a MEMORIAL. As much as any can be.

So if Bachar hadn't died, you wouldn't care if it were erased?
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
May 1, 2013 - 10:26am PT
A really good essay would be one that could put into words why so many love a bolt chalked on a rock.

Who is up for that project? (Leave out the character assassinations)
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
May 1, 2013 - 10:29am PT
Peaches deserves a little slack... he did take that big grounder
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 1, 2013 - 11:12am PT
Fair question Ryan. It is now an iconic symbol that shows up all over the place. It a strong symbol for those who remember the stonemaster days and the time when it was the hardest or one of the hardest problems in the world. A symbol of climbing history and hero's and legends in a historic place. For those legends as well.

Symbolism is pretty huge for humans. Respect is a key component of it's strength. Rationally it may not make much sense because this one is so easily replaced, but we are emotional beings before rational ones most of the time. It's the symbolism. I'm sure they have written a couple words about it in psychology
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
May 1, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
There sure are some dense people on this sight. Geez, amazing that no one can recognize a joke or find humor in it. Suckers.

James is one funny dude. Just read the rest of the stuff on his blog or go see him give a slideshow and you will get it.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
May 1, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
This was almost as funny as when he said he put false tick marks on The Nose when the Huber's were working it. Now that was funny!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 1, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
Geez, amazing that no one can recognize a joke or find humor in it.

It would be a good joke if he didn't actually erase it...

caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
May 1, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
world's biggest tickmark erased!

Lot of hue and cry for something impermanent like chalk. That was then redrawn.

Good one James.
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
May 1, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
^^^how do you know he really erased it? He is yankin' your chain.
orle

climber
May 1, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
Geez, amazing that no one can recognize a joke or find humor in it.


Guess that kinda backfired..
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
May 2, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
Credit: Chinchen
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 2, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
Didn't Ron do the FA of Midnight Lightening?
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
May 2, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
Yes.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 2, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Then why all the Bachar memorial stuff? Was it he who drew the Bolt originally?
Kinobi

climber
May 2, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
I came 4 times to Camp 4 from very far away.
The bolt was always there.
Why you erased it, I have no clue.

Im my opinion you see too sparcely women (or men, according to your behaviour). I suggest you to have some sex, because it's obvious you are facing serious problems.

Vai a prenderla in culo, stronzo di merda.
Emanuele
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 2, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
The Bolt
By Kalen Glenn

Some Humans want to be strong. Some want to stand out, and be bold.
There are places in this world, where only strong, bold people can go.
These places can be found in the Ocean.
Waves sought by serious souls can kill the weak.
These places are also in the Mountains.
Places where bold souls risk life and injury,
not to win power,
not to win fame,
nor riches.
People travel for days upon Trains, Planes, and Automobiles,
just to test their strength,
and their boldness.

Nestled in the Valley, there is a singular Stone that stands tall and center.
Surrounding it lie the legions of strong, bold souls from around the globe.
Only the strongest, only the boldest,
are able to ascend the Stone's overhanging face.
Drawn on it's face is a gleaming white lightning bolt,
painted, only in chalk.
Restored, only by fingers.
The symbol of Zeus, the highest of the highest order,
adorning this center stone as a symbol of strength and boldness!

May it forever be so.

May thousands upon thousands of strong, bold souls for Millennia to come,
have the honor to come and take the test.
For upon reaching the top, one never again questions.
They know they are strong.
They know they are bold.
And the world needs souls who know they are strong and bold.

Will I be Strong?
Will I be Bold?

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
May 2, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
Full circle for sure.. Many ancient people felt the VERY same about their art work scrawled on a rock face. those areas, special to them is why the art is there. SACRED by their standards. And protected by law these days.


Some say its JUST graffiti, that chalked bolt. But looking at it from an Indian perspective, this bolt represents the tribe as a whole. It reflects the character of how that tribe lived. It was done not as "grafitti" but a testament of "the hunt" of that tribe. Created by someone who was drawn naturally to that place as any Indian ever was. Created by a Shaman of that tribe, if there ever was one.








michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
May 2, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
This thread is so bad. Everyone is all over the place.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 2, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
Krona.... THX, nice read.

Ron.... true

Michaeld.... keeps you clicken...
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
May 2, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
I wonder, does James have blocks of petroglyphs in the trunk of his car..?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 2, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
^^^how do you know he really erased it? He is yankin' your chain.

Cuz I was there 5 days ago and looked at that boulder. New one is fresh, and looks a bit different. I don't find it funny at all. Just a cry for attention. I mean erasing it at night, and blogging about it?...how lame is that?
Been to his slide show too. Same jokes he has up on the blog (which were funny when you read it for the first time). Show was called "Yosemite's Next Top Idol." Even if that was supposed to be a joke, it's obvious that he is a little attention whore.
T H

Social climber
May 2, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
Was it he (Bachar) who drew the Bolt originally?
Yes. I read it in Stone Crusade.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
May 2, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Exactly right Ron, the ancient art was done discreetly. They did not have many alternatives for leaving a permanent record. Ancient hieroglyphics were not immature spray.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
May 2, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Don't be mean, V.. James is friends with people and you might make them cry :(.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
May 2, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Ya, what Ron says, it's a TRIBAL thing!
Leave the TRIBAL art alone or the TRIBE may have to get TRIBAL on yer a$$.
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
May 2, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
it's obvious that he is a little attention whore
I suppose so. Lot's of attention whores here on this sight w/blogs. Even ones about climbing trade routes in the dead of winter.
Coolcarl

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
May 2, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
This has inspired me to erase the "CU" etched on the third flatiron. I will be starting a kickstarter in the next couple days, as I estimate I'll need around 200 toothbrushes to clean it all off.
Credit: Charles Danforth
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
May 2, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
I can't believe that ya'll are this upset over the Ultimate Troll.

Think about it: The bolt isn't the original, so he didn't destroy anything with historical value, and it will be always get re-drawn within a day or two of erasure (no matter how many times it gets brushed off).

The community is attached to it as a cultural resource, so there will be a big reaction to Jimmy the Craterboy's midnight scrubbing attention-whoring shenanigans. But there is no lasting harm, just re-draw the damn thing.

At the end of the day, Jimmy-go-Splat gets hits on his blog, and pumps up a fake controversy that he may even get to write about in the rags, for pay. How many Largo simile ripoffs he includes in that prose remains to be seen, but Vegas puts the over/under at 4 based on his prior scribblings.

Ignore the Trolling, just Send It. (Which I actually didn't in this pic, sent it two weeks later...notice the left foot is too far left, screws up the rockover)


the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
May 2, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
I say we hold him down and prison tattoo the bolt on his forehead!!
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
May 2, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
Listen my children and you shall hear
Of the midnight scrub of James Crateer,
On the twentysixth of April, in year thirteen;
That poor man who ruptured his spleen
And couldn't top out cause he couldn't smear.

He said to his blog, "The magic left the bolt years ago"
So he cleaned it away in the dead of night,
But he's too proud to eat some crow.
And admit what he did is not right.
The citizens of the web were upset
And said it's attention he's trying to get,
That the bolt would return is nothing but fate
And if you could just lose some weight,
Then you too could send that V8.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
May 2, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
Way to go James!

Some folks would rather chew on tin foil than to see the bolt erased, no doubt. Nice nerve you exposed!
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
May 2, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
stolen from the internets...
stolen from the internets...
Credit: socialclimber

Though to be fair I think that may have been a dick move, it's really a right-wing thing to impose your moral imperatives on others... think of the culture James!

Charles
Ncoving

Big Wall climber
Sacramento
May 2, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
I'm glad I'm not the only one who found you to be a complete d#@&%e.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 2, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
I suppose so. Lot's of attention whores here on this sight w/blogs. Even ones about climbing trade routes in the dead of winter.

It's alright dude, next I will go kill off peregrine population of Yos and write a TR about that instead. Will generate a lot more traffic than these trade routes...lol

PS: oh and I will only post a link since that too will give my blog more clicks. Good idea!
sharperblue

Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
May 2, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
Credit: sharperblue
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
May 2, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
And on the Eighth Day, God created as#@&%es.
Some Random Guy

climber
Under a Little Pink Umbrella
May 2, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
ha ha, this be some good controversial entertainment!

I wonder, does James have blocks of petroglyphs in the trunk of his car..?
sh#t, so he was the one who drilled out all those petroglyphs from the buttermilks area. f*#ker!

james, it has come to my attention that your balls are old pathetic and have lost their "magic" years ago. i will take it upon myself to chop 'em! do humanity at large a favor......or at least that's my take on it without having previously consulted with the co-creator. probably under the cover of night so as not to distress you with the impending action. and then....
....we hold him down and prison tattoo the bolt on his forehead!!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
May 3, 2013 - 12:12am PT
I wanted to have an opinion on this but I just don't care. I was in yos last weekend and even thought about stopping by camp 4 and seeing if it was really gone, but couldn't be bothered.

I just don't get (i) why anyone really cares if he erased it, it's just chalk that can be redrawn, (ii) why anyone would care enough to erase it, or (iii) why anyone would care enough to not erase it but post on a blog that it had been erased.
QITNL

climber
May 3, 2013 - 12:32am PT
I don't really have an opinion about this either. It's just some chalk on a rock that has special significance to climbers. Both sides are getting real possessive over one dumb boulder. The fact that it's right in the middle of a campground is just a testament to "climbers are lazy." Not everyone who spends the night in Camp 4 is a climber; when asked, I deny it.

I was there a couple of weeks ago & I noticed that old fenced off section is gone, the old gas station, right? It's replaced with what looks like day use parking. I think I'll stick to parking by the Lodge, I'm not sure if I trust it.

But what really bummed me out is a bunch of the campsites are missing, maybe five or six of them, those to the right as you enter, closest to the wall. I guess they implemented that rockfall deal. Those were my favorite sites in the winter, they'd get real nice snow and warm up in the afternoon sun. Often you could have that space to yourself, everyone else hobnobbing under the trees around their fires.

I'll miss those sites, but at least I got a chance to experience them. Nothing lasts forever.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 7, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Well done! Dude got his minute of fame! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/tnb-erasing-the-magic-of-midnight-lightning?page=2

The Rangers at Camp 4 wouldnt call it graffiti. In fact, theres a certain respect and the emblem represents a certain time.

Kauk mentioned he had spoken to Lucas directly about the lightning bolts removal, but that he didnt make a lot of sense.

A lot of times were struggling to be somebody, Kauk said. James might be a little clever for attention.

I asked Kauk if he thought the bolt had become a trademark.

Its a connection to a time that isnt trademarkable, he answered quickly. Its so original. The lightning bolt recognizes the spirit of a story we created. We didnt need a plaque or anything to remember it by. We already had our lightning bolt.

Interestingly, Kauk then compared the chalked bolt to ancient rock art, saying, It was our petroglyph and an icon of those times, which to me represents freedom. We certainly werent trying to sell anything.

I guess dude who got the FA was one of those 'doesn't matter' people...LOL
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
May 7, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
If the bolt has lost meaning and significance to you, James, you could choose to not visit it any more. To erase this significant bit of our own history is the ultimate in self-centered actions. It's not just a slap in the face, it's the ultimate statement saying, "I am the only one who matters."

I'm sorry James, it's you who doesn't matter.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
May 7, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
This is what you'll be remembered for instead of everything else you've done. congrats. very cool to be an iconoclast.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
May 7, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
James Lucas is not the first person to vandalize an icon because of his own inability to deal with his inner demons.



Vandalism of art refers to intentional damage of an artwork (for unintentional damage see accidental damage of art). The object is usually exhibited in public, becomes damaged as a result of the act, and remains in place right after the act. This may distinguish it from art destruction and iconoclasm, where it may be wholly destroyed and removed, and art theft, or looting.
Numerous acts of vandalism against art exhibits are known and some objects, such as Mona Lisa, Night Watch and The Little Mermaid, have been intentionally damaged several times. Many vandals were diagnosed with a mental disorder and some, such as Hans-Joachim Bohlmann, had a history of attacking artworks. A vast amount of damage consists of leaving a minor scratch, a stuck chewing gum, a pencil mark and so on, and usually escapes publicity.[1] More visible acts of vandalism were premeditated, as the tool of destruction a knife, paint, acid or hammer was intentionally brought to the scene. In most cases, the artworks were restored. Restorations were costly and time consuming and in many cases were followed by shielding the artwork from future attacks.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
May 7, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
I saw Fattrad posted on the comments section. I'll put it down as he doesn't post here now.

"Jeff Elfont UCLA
James can forget about being Yosmite's next idol, he may get beat out.
Reply
2 hours ago"
10b4me

Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
May 7, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
you guys better watch out. James is friends with Alex
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
May 7, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
Hey James...what's next...tearing down the Le Conte Memorial?

Sheesh....
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
May 7, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
Maybe you'd be bitter too, if all the cool kids ran around soloing stuff so you thought it was the cool kid thing to do

and then you decked.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 7, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
This thread is like Herpes
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
May 7, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
Man... this hate-thread just keeps on going. I still can't figure out whether he is trolling or desperate for attention.
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
May 9, 2013 - 09:26am PT


I've been to parties like this before
Nobody moves they just stare at the floor
Everyone's watching waiting on me
As if my words will set them free

But I'm not a ghost
No I'm not a god
I hold no power over you
I'm just a lightning rod
I've bottled every crush
Every foolish fantasy
I'm to beautiful for love
There's no sharing vanity

I'm not ashamed to say I've lost my mind
I've been walking backwards all my life
Some might say there's a price I've paid
For a life less ordinary
Welcome to my masquerade

I've been to parties like this before
Where the prom queen is easy on the floor
Nobody know what to say or do
So they point the fingers at you

But I will not be swayed
I won't be led astray
I'm to beautiful for blame
I always get away

But I'm not a ghost
No I'm not a god
I hold no power over you
I'm just a lightning rod

I'm not ashamed to say I've lost my mind
I've been walking backwards all my life
Some might say there's a price I've paid
For a life less ordinary
Welcome to my masquerade

I'm not ashamed to say I've lost my mind
I've been walking backwards all my life
Some might say there's a price I've paid
For a life less ordinary

Welcome to my masquerade
Welcome to my masquerade
Welcome to my masquerade...

Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
May 9, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
D#@&%er of a move.
Captain Triage

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 9, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
I'm a 60-year old wanna-be climber that can barely lead a 5.8. I have experienced the sense of history in Camp 4 since my first visit there in 1973. I have gazed at the lightning bolt many times wondering what could have been, had I lived my life differently. Could I ever have gotten good enough to do it?
My jaw drops at the self-indulgent arrogance of a man who unilaterally takes it upon himself to destroy a landmark that belongs to all of us.
GZ

Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
May 9, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
James,

I'm tempted to call you a green puss sucking f*#k stain, but you are beneath even that derogatory term.

Congratulations on winning the Presidency for D#@&%ebagistan.

GZ
canyoncat

Social climber
SoCal
May 9, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
How do you "destroy" a landmark that has already been redrawn several times? The original is long, long gone. Read the thread and look at the pictures.
Stevethefolkie

Trad climber
Abbottstown, PA
May 9, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
I remember when RR chopped the bolts on the Harding route "wall of the early morning light" - back then I tried to figure out the logic of increasing the size of a physical scar that will never heal to satisfy a sense of personal superiority and or ego. The simple fact that you can justify an act or action in your own mind, or rationalize it to your personal satisfaction, does not make that act or action either right or correct, and "fashion" changes (I still don't believe "sport climbing" exists) - the bolts were placed as part of a creative process - chopping them is an insult to the creator, especially if, absent the bolts, the route cannot be replicated.

my 2cents - probably 2X it's actual worth
Captain Triage

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 9, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
To make canyoncat feel better, of course it's been redrawn over the years. :p Nonetheless, he appointed himself the sole judge of what is correct and attacked a tradition that is meaningful to others and has historical context. It was arrogant, if not sociopathic.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
May 9, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
Chances are good that his shtick won't play so good at this year's Facelift.
portent

climber
May 9, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
What a d#@&%e move...

Not as d#@&%ey as calling Werner a turd though, I guess?

Bitches should be getting banned for the virtual campfire...

;) --Kovar
orle

climber
May 9, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
James is still recovering from a bad head injury and is not totally in command of all he does. How many years has he walked by the bolt or tried the problem itself? Now all of a sudden he just can't leave it alone?

Hmm..
orle

climber
May 9, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
From the R&I article:

Everyone I spoke with felt that the magic was still very much a part of the bolt. So I decided to ask Lucas himself why he felt so strongly about removing the bolt, and how the drawing had become a trademark. Unfortunately, although he did respond, Lucas refused to be quoted.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
May 9, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
thread keeps on giving

if anything, it shows how important this chalk art really is to climbers. maybe that was his intention.

some of these posts make it seem he hurt or slandered somebody. easy with the lynch mob. sheesh.


hang in there james :)
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
May 9, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
Hey, James has a fan club:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1026302/To-James

the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
May 9, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
I remember when RR chopped the bolts on the Harding route "wall of the early morning light" - back then I tried to figure out the logic of increasing the size of a physical scar that will never heal to satisfy a sense of personal superiority and or ego.

It wasn't about superiority or ego. I think RR planned to chop it to say there is limit to what is acceptable to get up a climb, saying you shouldn't just bolt your way up an unnatural line. But of course part way up it he STOPPED chopping, because he realized there was some inspired climbing on it. That climb serves as a great lesson to all of us, not because it got chopped, but because Royal realized he should STOP chopping it and had the courage to admit he was wrong.

Too bad the Wings of Steel choppers didn't try to climb it first, they probably would have learned the same lesson and wouldn't have done the things they regretted later.

Edit: or another lesson in here, if you have to do something under the cover of darkness you're probably going to regret it later.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
May 9, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
I posted this elsewhere but it seems apropos all of a sudden:



Look. I think were all in agreement that every new boulder problem does not demand eternal memorialization in any medium, chalk included. We have also come to a place where every new big-wall route does not demand a bolt ladder to the summit, a la Harding, or stringing miles of fixed rope on huge alpine faces (OK, if youre Russian, well talk). But allowances can be made for circumstance. Harding gets a pass because he was the first one up the Captain. Hillary gets a pass on the sieging thing for being the first one up Mt. Whatsitscluster. And the lightning bolt is an expression of a particular, game-changing, time and place. That time has passed, but it continues to inspire.

The guys who climbed the Lightning (and I am not one, not even close) chose to memorialize this particular pebble-wrassle because they knew it was special. They didnt do it again. Leave it alone, and find a better way to draw attention to your blog.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
May 9, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
Where will Lucas find his tis-sa-ack?

Lol

DMT
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
May 9, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
#emoclimberkneejerkreactions
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
May 9, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
if anything, it shows how important this chalk art really is to climbers. maybe that was his intention.

James may just have well photoshopped the entire thing. The result would have been the same (at least initially) - the point being that the bolt is still there. I know that it stings so much for people because someone personally erased it, but why so much anger? Was the bolt he erased not just an copy of the long-gone original?

Many of the responses from folks have been sort of disgusting - is there really so much hatred in the climbing community?

I say let's hear from some of the previous erasers for their two cents...
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
May 9, 2013 - 07:40pm PT

"I'm tempted to call you a green puss sucking f*#k stain, but you are beneath even that derogatory term.

Congratulations on winning the Presidency for D#@&%ebagistan."




Don't sugar-coat it George...give it to him straight!

:D
slobmonster

Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
May 9, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
It seems that I am with James on this one.

As the "Bolt" in question is a piece of artwork, or a graffito, or a talisman, or a memorial marque, or simply just too much chalk, it is regardless an ephemeral symbol. Its (brief) "removal" seems to be a thought experiment for y'all and us all to consider what matters, and why.

We bitch and bitch and fight internet hardman style over many silly things. This might take the silly cake. Save your energies for expanding camping options in Yosemite and the NPS system in general, access to climbing sites that are threatened, and the solace you might find in the Wild.
orle

climber
May 9, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
Its (brief) "removal" seems to be a thought experiment for y'all and us all to consider what matters, and why.


Then wouldn't it seem from 'thought experiment' that such a symbol DOES indeed matter for many folk, for many different reasons? Wouldn't that be the result from the experiment, y'know, from the data he gathered from his subjects?
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
May 9, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
Obviously what matters is getting a publicity bump for an obscure, mediocre writer.
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
Orle-
I never refused to be quoted by Chris Parker, who wrote the Rock & Ice article.

"You can quote me if I can see the essay before it's published. " I emailed Parker. I was worried about being lambasted by the peanut gallery. Unfortunately, that's impossible to escape.

Parker responded, "Okay. You can see the essay when it's published on Tuesday.... Sorry but that's a no go."

Brendan Leonard quoted me in his article on Adventure Journal

Anyway, it's hailing in Yosemite at the moment.
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
May 9, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
I was worried about being lambasted by the peanut gallery.

If you worry about that, then I recommend you stop posting stupid sh#t to the peanut gallery.

labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
May 9, 2013 - 08:25pm PT
"Peanut gallery"
From Wikipedia

A peanut gallery was, in the days of vaudeville, a nickname for the cheapest (and ostensibly rowdiest) seats in the theater, the occupants of which were all too willing (in the view of the performer) to heckle.



Hang in there James! Maybe I'll climb with you again some day. Don't get too fat from all the peanuts (or pies).
nateflink

Trad climber
St Paul
May 10, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
I'll probably never send Midnight Lightning, (or even get close to it.) It still holds my imagination, inexplicably. Perhaps it is because routes are more than random formations of rock. Perhaps it is because climbing routes are the aftermath of some worthy souls' artistic expression, and everything that surrounds it.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
May 11, 2013 - 12:34am PT
So James literary masturbation is now called "a thought experiment", while everyone else is just bitching.

The "experiment" was an epic fail.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
May 11, 2013 - 01:51am PT
We dont see things as they are, we see them as we are. Anas Nin
MisterE

Social climber
May 11, 2013 - 02:08am PT
From a purely "marked climbs" perspective, I can maybe see a way through this - for consistency's sake. There are climbing areas in the world that have the climbs marked: in stone, in paint, with obscure denotations only decipherable by the locals, etc.

Yosemite has almost no physical denotation of routes or boulder problems to identify them as such. Midnight Lightning is the glaring exception - nay, the outstanding icon in a clean sweep of the base of any of the many climbs and boulder problems in the valley. Name another clearly-marked human-created sign, and chances are: it is not nearly as well-known as the lightning bolt.

So. yeah - an equalization of the norm, if you will. But Ron Kauk or Kurt Smith are the stronger candidates for the job, if it is to be done.

It's out of your pay-grade, James.
splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
May 11, 2013 - 02:19am PT
Crazy world. People get shot just about every day for crossing out somebody else graffiti here in Amurica. James seems to be still kicking, so I guess that wasn't the case with him. At least somebody didn't come along with a stone masons saw and cut it out and sell it on the black market, or whatever. Like they did over on the eastside to the 3,000+ year old petroglyphs. That/those d00ds should be shot.

I ain't gonna say anything about it one way or another. Already got enough peeps on this site that wanna kick my ass or worse. And I suspect at least half of the international climbing community probably wanna do likewise. But at least I got the Sherpa on my side (i think). I usually side with the underdog, but in this case, it all boils down to respect. Kinda like the Sherpa thread, in a way. Mo'Nature decides to rub it out, well, nobody can argue with her. But, I was around back in the day. I had plenty of opportunity to go hang on the lower holds, or whatever, but, never did. Not sure why I didn't, maybe it was just respect!

edit: Matt - Dunno, but me thinks that even Mo'Nature is purdy pissed about this, bro! It was pretty much her prerogative, if it stays or if it goes, until James came along! ...ya just don't f*#k wit Mo'Nature! ;)
Matt

Trad climber
it's all turtles, all the way dooowwwwwnn!!!!!
May 11, 2013 - 04:18am PT
honestly, the only thing i could less of a sh#t about than lucas removing some chalk from some rock is what everyone else thinks about lucas removing some chalk from some rock.

obviously the chalk can go right back up.
obviously lucas knew the chalk could go right back up.

you guys are like the nancy grace of the climbing world.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
May 11, 2013 - 11:04am PT

you guys are like the nancy grace of the climbing world.


I guess that makes you the retarded call-in listener ;).
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
May 11, 2013 - 11:09am PT
Erased the lightning bolt?

James is going to have to spend a couple of years giving free blow jobs at bus stops in order to get back some of his self esteem.
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
May 11, 2013 - 11:12am PT
Is that how you got yours back? Or are you still cruising those bus stops?
T H

climber
May 11, 2013 - 11:15am PT
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
May 11, 2013 - 11:33am PT
I try to be a pretty environmentally-conscious person (hit and miss...good intentions), and deplore graffiti and litter. This somehow feels different to me (can't really logically say why), and I'm still confused as to why you decided--unilaterally--what the bolt does and doesn't mean on behalf of the climbing community. Personally, I'm sad that you did what you did.
Heyzeus

climber
Hollywood,Ca
May 11, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
Credit: Heyzeus
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
May 11, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
Is that how you got yours back?

How did you know? Did I service you??
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
May 11, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
James,

You trolled the entire climbing community by erasing some chalk. So much butthurt.

You sir, are the king of trolls.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
May 12, 2013 - 09:15am PT
Ya, he's a real luvvable prankster!

As far as a writer, he comes off as a wannabe more than a talent.

I guess it comes off better at those slide shows I don't go to.

He cud b duh next Timmy! 'Cept he don't even climb as good?

Dat's too bad :(.
peterbeal

Boulder climber
Colorado
May 12, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
Here's my 2 cents on the topic
http://www.mountainsandwater.com/2013/05/midnight-lightning-versus-what-really.html

Norwegian

Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
May 12, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
james.
brilliance is just down that inviting channel.

you are poking pretty agressively at it's hymen,
though you seem to lack the intellectual rigidity
to penetrate beyond.

your struggle is real, and common across pen's
everywhere.

you cheaply harvested the sharp and chalky
icon down and right of midnight's exit move.

now you are stabbing at reality's tight membrane
with your newly wielded sword, attempting to
fake your way into the domain of a hero's gestation.

keep trying, boy.
these cowardly shortcuts will always lead you down
the wrong hall.
and until you rip the condom off of
your limp mind,
your aspirations will never produce offspring.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
May 12, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
+infinity weege!
KyleO

Gym climber
Calgary, AB
May 12, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
A blog post about a blog post, of course said blog post agreeing with earlier blog post. Just a bunch of bloggin bouldering babblers...

I find it weak that James does something as ridiculous as washing off midnight lightning bolt, posts in his blog about it, throws a link immediately to supertopo and then does not respond or explain himself properly. What gives James, seriously? Don't you feel any shame in removing it? Sure its been removed before, but by the gods (weather). Are you comparing yourself to a god? I think your being a dramatic little diva and whatever image you were looking to create through this endeavour has surely gone tits up.

And then when the first ascentionist asks him about it, he babbles on like a moron and Kauk couldn't make any sense of it.
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
May 12, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
One of Norwegian's better poems. ^^^
slobmonster

Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
May 12, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
Peter Beal (above) gets it.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
May 12, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
^ yep
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
May 14, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
hard to beat Weeg's take!! ^^

Thought about starting a blog just about that post...Seriously

If you don't/can't send like Bachar, Reardon, Osman, Gullich, Edlinger, Potter, and Honnold...Guess what your just like the rest of us and don't deserve to have a blog unless it is about "the ordinary average JAMES climber"

Your ticket that said "failure to crush" should have cited you for "failure to dream" as well
Ari

Trad climber
california
May 16, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
That's messed up! The bolt being there didn't bother Anyone except you, and for those of us who have lived in Yosemite, it is (or WAS) a part of the climbing history. What made you think you had the right to do that?? Of course you erased it in the middle of the night because a ton of people would have yelled at you otherwise. Leave public things alone, they're not yours to change regardless of your opinion about them. I wouldn't brag about this next time you're in the valley or anytime you're around climbers, you've definitely pissed a lot of people off.
Da-Veed

Big Wall climber
Bend Oregon
May 16, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
I must say it is quite self serving to have erased this, even if it had been redrawn many times. I myself loved being there next to the bolt the first time I was in The Valley. It drew a connection with the past generations to the present. I have respect for that.

I suggest you, James, show up during peak climbing season, hang out on the bridge and start bragging about how you took it upon yourself to scrub off the lighting bolt. See what kind of reaction you get in person not on your interwebblog!
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