Yosemite Falls Trail climbing

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Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 18, 2013 - 10:29am PT
I posted the following on Peter's photos thread.

Peter, great photos. I loved climbing Seaside. It's off limits now isn't it? Along with the Peanut (great climb) and others on the Falls Trail?

Then I tried googling the question.

Somewhere, maybe on the Taco Stand, I read that climbing above the trail is off limits.

If so, that's too bad, there are several excellent climbs there.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:46am PT
Of what country are you a citizen?

Would you mind pulling over to secondary?
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 10:53am PT
Of what country are you a citizen?

Would you mind pulling over to secondary?

But you still haven't answered my question about the Falls Trail walls.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:59am PT
Please pull over into secondary sir.








Actually, I've heard the same about climbing above the trail, but I don't know that for a fact. Is it a law? Part of the code? Or more of a guideline really....



Now pull into secondary sir.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 11:12am PT
Now pull into secondary sir

I have never heard that before, so I googled it, I suppose it is the same as "please pull over", which I heard once on A CHP patrol car's loudspeaker.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Apr 18, 2013 - 11:13am PT
Nothing is off limits. you can climb anything along the Falls Trail. Yosemite Point Buttress may be closed for the birds but everything else is fine.

Probably a good idea not to trundle on hikers, that might get you in trouble.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 18, 2013 - 11:20am PT
I have never heard that before

Watch the video on the Border Patrol thread and you'll be chuckling too!

Now, are you being a wise guy sir? Pull into secondary!
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Apr 18, 2013 - 11:35am PT
They don't call it the "Forbidden Wall" for nothing. Looking down from the top of said wall. If you wanted to go tourist hunting trundling, this would be the place.
Credit: Walleye: www walterflint.com
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
Survival, I watched that video, now I get it.

And no, I am not going to pull over into secondary.

I deleted some of my second post and will send it to you. I thought it wise.

Cheers.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Apr 18, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
i always wondered about this myself. hiking up that trail it is impossible not to notice all the rock up there and potential lines.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
amazing photo, Walleye!
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
Werner? Do you know what the official NPS policy is on the Falls Trail walls?

I did the Peanut in 1975, for me the crux move wasn't crux, but a move I was a bit short (5'6") on so I 'dynoed' (sp?) it, but Hank Ward who is like 6'1" followed and he had no problem.

Thanks Tom and, Kamps wasn't it?

And I love that little roof on Seaside. It's a gas.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 18, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
WOW Walleye that is incredible. HOW do I get THERE?!
Sheets

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:11pm PT

Aren't a number of these routes in the blue Myers guide?

I've always been struck by these lines too.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
The NPS asked that routes in the vicinity be withheld from the next guide after the barrage of rockfall that killed a few hikers and destroyed the trail in 82' or 83'.

Liberty cap's SE flank, Mist trail routes, and others were left out of the reid guide for the same reason.



nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
Walleye, really nice perspective pic.

I wanna see pics on Galloping Consumption or other stuff to the left of Smokey Pillar area. Can't recall seeing a TR for routes over there, and for years I've nursed the hope of throwing down some good obscure-but-right-in-front-of-your-face trip reports. Some day, probably not this year.
Jason Torlano

Social climber
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
Not off limits. I climbed a good New Route Last summer It starts just right of the rockfall from 82 it is a free climb 10d 12 pitches. tops out just to the right of walleye photo. The cruz was not to trundle on the falls trail.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
i always wondered about this myself. hiking up that trail it is impossible not to notice all the rock up there and potential lines.

Very true, although different things deterred us at different times. I remember mentioning it to Mike Ferrell in 1970 or 1971, and received the response to the effect, "You mean those crack systems that look hideously likely to go free?"

The fact that I, at the time, was hideously likely to nail them without trying to free climb them was enough to keep me climbing elsewhere in the Valley.

John
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
There was quite a bad avalanche up near and above the Peanut / Apron back in the seventies. I think there was a formal closure in the Peanut area for years, as well as a natural admonition to stay away. The third tier routes don't seem to be in Reid 1998.

Note too that the routes in Little Yosemite disappeared similarly but not in junction with rockfall, I am thinking. And in one of the guides there was some language (1970's editions) about not listing those LYV climbs. This is of course with the exception of Liberty Cap..

We need Jessie to chime in on the subject of forbidden zones for climbing.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 18, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
Peter-

Liberty caps East flank's routes were withheld from the reid and big walls books.

It seems that there was a move to protect tourists from climbers on certain faces dating back as early as the 70's?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
Roger, Joe and I replaced all the bolts on the "Charlie Brown Apron" (Jumbo Go Away, Chain Reaction, The Peanut, No Teats) last summer. Also a few on Brush Off.
Planning to include it in the next edition of the guidebook.
One of klaus's new routes, Spray Fest (just left of Brush Off) will definitely be in the next edition and looks like a great climb.
There are certainly risks to climbing above trails, but the trail area is fairly wide; if you decked somehow, you would hit some feet from the trail and the hikers could easily jump to the side....
Since it's a slab, there is not much loose rock on the climbs except for the occasional 2" x 2" x 1/8" flake.

There is a lower angle vegetated area above the slab where loose stuff might come off, but no climbs up there that I know of at present.
Those would be much higher risk to the trail - bigger rocks and higher velocity.
Peter

Trad climber
San Francisco
Apr 18, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
Ahhh, the next edition of the guidebook. All of our questions will be answered...
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
So it seems that it is okay to climb there, just don't kill some tourons.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
That tall wall to the left as the Falls trails starts heading right-ish: Steve Herrero and Peter Spoecker did a route in there and thought it was superb. I don't remember anything else. This was long before the area had its big rockfall. That would have been in the mid Sixties. Since we were on the subject of Peter Spoecker on another thread just recently.

God, the "new guide". What a project and "long felt want", as they used to say when my Dad was a child.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
Peter,
The FAs for those guys listed in the guidebooks are:
1549. The Surprise FA: Pete Spoecker, Steve Herrero, 4/1965
1558. Bacchigaloupe Wall FA: Pete Spoecker, Steve Herrero, 4/1965
So this only goes through the "Second Tier".

The earliest FA in the books on the tier above the trail is RF in 1966.
So if Spoecker and Herrero extended their climbs above the trail, it didn't make it into the books (yet).

The project does seem a bit epic at times, but we've actually been making some good progress.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
the NPS would like to reduce climber traffic in the corridor to reduce the possibility of adverse climber/hiker interactions... so they requested that the routes not be in the various guides...

But as far as I know, they did not close climbing in that area.

You can see how close the trail is to the cliff, on both sides...


see the thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=553656 and links there in.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Apr 18, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
nice shot Walleye, but I want to see less trail and more wall from that angle ;)

Walt and I did the FA Sprayfest and trundled some loose stuff down onto the trail.

Amazing how lazy hikers suddenly become Bruce Jenner like when their lives are threatened.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Apr 18, 2013 - 07:05pm PT
Up and right of No Teats is my route "Trailside Slasher" , not sure if you guys have a topo and I'm still going back for a 3rd pitch.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
fire it off to us... and whatever happens happens...
(it's easier to modify digitally rendered topos...)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
Eric,
Is that the same climb that has been called Hokey Swiller? (Swillar?)
I don't have a topo for it.

We have another route called "Trailside Slasher" by Tucker Tech and Steve Tech, on the short slab west of Galloping Consumption, just right/east of the springs at the trail high point before it descends to Charlie Brown Apron. (Roger and I replaced the bolts on this slab last summer also).

Joe and I climbed a corner above No Teats and then headed left to reach the top of Chain Reaction to fix ropes. We found a fixed pin belay in the corner up and left of No Teats.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
I looked for a shot to show the width of the bench with trail below Charlie Brown Apron, but almost all my shots are looking up!
Kat and Joe below Chain Reaction, Charlie Brown Apron  7/29/2012
Kat and Joe below Chain Reaction, Charlie Brown Apron 7/29/2012
Credit: Clint Cummins
Here's one which shows Kat and Joe standing on the trail.
I'm just slightly below them and several feet away on the wide grassy bench.
You can also see there is some ground and grass between the trail and the slab itself.
Not enough space to protect from a bouncing rock, but fine for a sliding leader.... :-)

Here's a related thread with Mark Chapman's story of the first ascent of Chain Reaction (how it got that name):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/258750/Charlie-Brown-Apron-Yosemite
Sheets

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 08:41pm PT

In Ed's photo can you walk around to the top of the falls from Diversion (10a)? Anyone done that route?

5 open books -> Salgenella-> Diversions would be a hell of day in the park.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
(note to self, never climb with klaus up there again)


I am particularly OBSESSED with a line only apparently I can see. I have always wanted to check out that awesome cave, as well.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
my eye sees a lot of lines up there Michelle...
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
We need to compare notes Ed. I'm planning an assault for next year.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
what about lower down...

Blackout
Guiding Light

They going in?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
Steve,
In Ed's photo can you walk around to the top of the falls from Diversion (10a)?
If you walked right, you would reach the Falls Trail below the Via Aqua level. If you knocked stuff off on that walk, it would bomb the trail below.
Walking left & up - looks like a long bushwhack - see xRez, Union Point, Glacier Point or Half Dome Summit views.
http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/yose_deepzoom/index.html

Rob,
what about lower down...

Blackout
Guiding Light

They going in?

Yes.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
Patrick, you must be one of the only people who've climbed Seaside. I remember a nice finger crack, and no loose rock... no need to restrict climbing there - not to say they haven't.

I found a nest of baby Mountain King Snakes near the base of that route, 8 or 10 pencil sized guys.

Beautiful.
WBraun

climber
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
Me and Dale did second ascent of Seaside,

You told us to go there warbler.

It's all your fault ...... :-)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
Seaside looks like beautiful clean rock, and more of a buffer of ground between its base and the trail.
Yosemite Falls West - Third Tier - Galloping Consumption, Seaside
Yosemite Falls West - Third Tier - Galloping Consumption, Seaside
Credit: xRez / Clint Cummins
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
I won't tell Werner.

Fig and I tried to keep going after the third pitch, but it got weird and needed bolts so we called it good while we were ahead.

The route's obscure and easy and low angle, but I have good memories of it. Clean with a nice view, the position at the turn of The Falls Trail gives it an airy feeling...
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 18, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
... 5 open books -> Salgenella-> Diversions would be a hell of day ...
There is crack lines on the SW face of Eagle Peak too, if you wanted more.
Sheets

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 11:10pm PT

Damn straight I want more....
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 19, 2013 - 01:14am PT
I was just in the Deep Cleft today and took a talus hike up one of the watercourses leading out and up, up, up from the C4 parking lot all the way to where it intersected with the trail.

I took this shot way before I started, earlier in the morning.
Step off of the trail, sir, or I'll dump all over you like in the eart...
Step off of the trail, sir, or I'll dump all over you like in the earthquake.
Credit: mouse from merced
Wanda Verboten.

Dawdling and taking the obscurest photos in the labyrinth of oak and kin, TAKING MY OWN SWEET TIME, I arrived at a good place to sit for a few hours till I had to descend.

But as topological fate would have it, I was only about fifty yards from the switchbacks that come down from the top of Selaginella. Little did it occur to me that I was that high. But the photos prove it. Well, I had had a safety meeting with my alter ego, Hans Napoleon Solo, so it's little wonder I was very happy to have come across the trail, because by this time, my knees were not happy at all, and my asthma has been racking me today, too...yesterday and today...

There's a fall and a watercouse on the trail a bit higher than where I intersected it. These shots are of the fall which you won't see from that section of trail, due to trees out in the switchbacks, obviously. Nor do you have any perspective from the base of the falls.
Credit: mouse from merced
Credit: mouse from merced
Credit: mouse from merced
Two fellows from Fishcamp, working for Camp Green Meadows.  They did S...
Two fellows from Fishcamp, working for Camp Green Meadows. They did Selaginella.
Credit: mouse from merced
A fellow I'd seen in the Village in the morning was coming down from t...
A fellow I'd seen in the Village in the morning was coming down from the top of the falls. His name is Gary. He's about a mover, too!
Credit: mouse from merced

Today was gorgeous in the Valley but real cold this morning...yesterday morning...
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2013 - 02:23am PT
I found a nest of baby Mountain King Snakes near the base of that route, 8 or 10 pencil sized guys.

Kevin, that's cool, especially since Mountain King Snakes love to eat rattlers.

Yeah, I did Seaside with Claude Fiddler 1975, it is a cool route, when I said little roof, it really is more of sort of a bulge, okay tiny roof, but fun.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Apr 21, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
Credit: Walleye
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 21, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
Walleye, your fly's open.

Z-cellent shot!
Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
Apr 21, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Great stuff... these kinds of threads are amongst my favorites.

Eric
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 21, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
Agreed. If I had one place only to climb, this would be it.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 21, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
hey there, say, walleye! wow, i have BEEN WANTING to see what it looks like up there, above the falls and along the falls, for the longest time...

just the other day, i was thinking to post and ask you all...
VERY SURPRISED and glad to see this!!

can folks post some more, pics too, perhaps of just before that high, and/or, of the other side, too, ?


thanks, this is sooo neat!
thank you again...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 21, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
hey there say, mouse... just saw your neat share! too...
oh i love seeing all this rock...

thanks guys!

walleye, am waiting for your other picture to load,
hope folks share more, as i said... with how the areas connect
along the falls, etc, and all that...

:)


say, seeing that there is a name for the trail, i did this search and
found this neat site:

http://www4.uwsp.edu/geo/projects/geoweb/participants/dutch/VTrips/YosemiteFalls.HTM

pictures have not loaded yet, but there is QUITE a lot, :)
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 21, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
hey there say, walleye, mouse, fletcher and all...

this link, DID show me what i wanted to see...
http://www4.uwsp.edu/geo/projects/geoweb/participants/dutch/VTrips/YosemiteFalls.HTM


though walleye's z'trail was clearer in his pics...

THIS at the end of all the pics, scrolled to as far down to end:

there is a picture of the WHOLE falls, showing in between, etc, of
the two falls (upper and lower) and, i had see the surrounding rock
from the other photos...

i really enjoyed seeing the lined-map, at the very top!
:)
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Apr 21, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
just wear granite camo, top out if you loosen some stuff,

if you hear hikers moaning down below, roll more stuff til the moaning stops,

the moaning never stops over here, we gots ho's and bitches, and they ain't leavin til 6 in the morning, gin and juice bi-otch! i got a pocket full of rubbers and my homies do too,

pmonks

climber
May 9, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
Sheets wrote:
5 open books -> Salgenella-> Diversions would be a hell of day in the park.

Hell yes!! I've done the Commitment / Selaginella link up a couple of times (it's one of my favourites longer moderates in the Valley) and always wondered whether it could be extended up that third tier at around the same grade (say, 5.8-5.10a). That would be an awesome big day out!
bob

climber
May 9, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
Once did Werner's Ant trees to Surprise, to Indica Point which ended by slinging the rail at one of the trail overlooks. Sh#t f*#king scary route. Indica Point at least. (Barton/Shipley) Breathing stone of a huge proportion. Then said stone had to be used as anchor. F*#KED!!!!!!!!!!! Get some. Great last pitch. I remember Jake W's feet hanging over as he waited for us to finish. Its such a line from the windows of Res. 4. Really. Also....

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1492357&msg=1797411#msg1797

Bob J.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
May 9, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
a decade ago I soloed Munginella to Selaginella then went up the trail and did Via Aqua... Shipley style after some tramp dumped me. Via Aqua certainly got my attention without a rope, huge exposure up there.

Also onsighted Observation Point solo, it's a little dirty but the last part at the top is pretty cool.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Aug 29, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
I didn't know Tucker did a route called trailside slasher I think he stole the name from me. anyway I'll name my route something else. I'm planning on finishing it next week by adding a 3rd and 4th pitch.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Feb 13, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
I was thinking of heading up to the third tier this weekend. From what I understand, Seaside and Galloping Consumption are ok to climb. Has anyone been up either Seaside or Galloping Consumption recently? Are the Seaside rap anchors remotely safe?

Thanks
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 13, 2014 - 01:21pm PT
The only bolts on the Seaside topo are the two at the top,
and there is a bush/tree just below them which you might be able to rap from if the bolts look scary.
It would be wise to bring extra tied slings and spare nuts to use in rap anchors.
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