Brit visiting the Gunks next week. Any tips?


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Tom Ripley

Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 27, 2013 - 06:46pm PT

My Dad is visiting the Gunks next week and is hoping to do some climbing.

What is the weather like at this time of year?

Can you recommend any top draw routes in the 5.7-5.10a range?



Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 27, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
Wonderful climbing....great movement on high quality rock- stiff ratings. Very crowded on weekends.

Current forecast is showery this weekend thru Monday then sunny the rest of the week.

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 27, 2013 - 07:23pm PT

Have fun. Look out for copperheads--poisonous.
Directissima. Bonny's Roof. Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope.
Gaston-Strictly-Shockley's. MF.
Some of my fave moderates. . .

Boulder climber
Mar 27, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
Don't forget to pack your sledge and chisels.

Mar 27, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
I suggest starting low on your range at first to get used to the angle.
Strictly from Nowhere
Madame Grunnenbaum's Wulst
High Exposure

Don't fall onto those little ledges. Especially when running out a ceiling. The norm is pro will be excellent.

Get used to ceilings.
Modern Times

MF is the classic. Expect it to be truly thrilling. If you eat up MF move right to Coexistence. All classics on the McCarthy wall.

If you run into Prof. Reppy you will have lots about which to talk.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Show those wanker Yanks how to use double rope techniques, which is what you really need on rock like the Gunks!

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
Your dad needs to fly 3000 miles to watch it rain and freeze his bum off?
I thought that was what Scotland was for?
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
^^^ several posts above is John Stanndard, he put up a climb there with a huge roof called Foops. There's a number of other gunks originals here too. High Exposure, Cascading Crystal Kaleidescope, MF, Modern Times, Madam G's - it's too bad the skytop crag is closed, not only had Foops but a bunch of 5.10s, one was a fist crack, a rarity for the east coast. Your dad should love the place - its not as big as what's out west but familiar territory for gritstone climbers.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
If you want to check the weather go to "climbing weather" on the internet. It gives 7 day NOAA point forecasts for numerous locations in the US.
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