Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 49 of total 49 in this topic |
NorCalNomad
Trad climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 21, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
|
My humorous interpretation of the three most prolific bigwallers on the internet.
Mark Hudon: I'm old and I don't want to have to do any work...but if I have to I'll bring Cheyne for the hard work.
Chris Mac: If it weights over an once it's too heavy.
Pete Zabrok: Aid Climbing eh?
Just wanted to say THANK YOU guys so much for all the amazing information, guides, trip reports, and wisdom that you guys share with the rest of the climbing community. Truly an inspiration to anyone looking to get onto some big walls.
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
|
I second that!
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 12:05am PT
|
Oh where would I be without Cheyne!
Ha! Thanks!
(Look for he and I on El Cap again this spring, btw)
|
|
enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite, ca
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 12:12am PT
|
Yeah thanks guys! Awesome information from those 3
|
|
bringmedeath
climber
la la land
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 12:36am PT
|
You ever heard of a bad ass mother f*#ker named Eric Kohl????
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 12:45am PT
|
edit: cheers indeed!
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 01:06am PT
|
I think that there's some Gross man on here, as well--also a rocket scientist named Braun comes to mind...
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 01:56am PT
|
Middendorf
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 02:57am PT
|
Steve?
|
|
KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 03:26am PT
|
Ron Olevsky? [Zion]
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 09:48am PT
|
Real bigwallers don't wear profilactics.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
|
Don't forget about Googlymoogly.
Prod.
|
|
orle
climber
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
|
Aren't y'all limpwristed children and women forgetting someone?!
BURT BRONSON
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
|
I miss BURT BRONSON. I wonder what ever happened to him?
Geez, just don't ask me about free climbing!!
If anyone has any questions on systems or aid climbing or any of that stuff, and doesn't feel like putting it out on the forum, or wants to get [hopefully] constructive one on one feedback, please feel free to email me directly. I'm usually pretty quick at getting back, eh?
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
|
Some awesome information put out by all of these. I especially liked the info "Dr. Piton" posted on Rockclimbing.com, stuff Mark H. posted ragarding hauling, and all of Chris' videos were GREAT for getting started wall climbing. I am more of a visual learner, so seeing it being demonstrated is really good. Thanks guys.
PS a question for you gurus: I heard there is a better way to fix haul bags to the anchor instead of a daisy/sling. Piton calls it a "Docking Tether" and said to use 'Munter Mule'. Do you basically attach one end of a cord with a figure 8 to a locker your haul bag is attached to, and use a munter hitch to adjust where to connect your bag to the anchor, than tie it off with a 'mule knot?' Than use the remainder of the rope for lower outs? Do you guys have a photo of this set up? 25 ft of 7mm cord would be good?
PSS: would love to see pictures of hand placed sawed off angles too. Anyone has some? Want to get on the Shield this year!!!!!!
|
|
FrankZappa
Trad climber
Hankster's crew
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
|
Klaus gets second place to the true last bastion of the hard man.
MEN, BURT BRONSON HERE. I HAVE RETURNED FROM ANOTHER EPIC, YET SUCCESSFUL STAY IN BAFFIN. OUR TEAM (CONSISTING OF ONLY ME) COMPLETED 17 NEW ROUTES. THE HARDEST, "WHY WOMEN SHOULD STAY AT HOME", WAS COMPLETED OVER 84 DAYS. THIS IS, SO FAR, THE BOLDEST ROUTE YET DONE ON THE ISLAND. AT 5.14C, A5++, PDH, WI 13, M14+, GRADE IX, V14, B3, SIT START, THIS ROUTE WAS DONE GROUND UP WITH NO HOLES DRILLED ON THE ASCENT. THE ROUTE WAS ESTABLISHED IN PURE ALPINE STYLE WITH ME STAYING ON THE WALL FOR THE ENTIRE 84 DAYS. I LOST 77 POUNDS ON THE WALL. THE LINE CONSISTS OF 114 PITCHES AND GOES UP A NEWLY DISCOVERED WALL THAT ONLY I HAVE SEEN. ACCORDING TO MY MEASUREMENTS, THE WALL IS THE TALLEST AND MOST OVERHANGING WALL IN THE WORLD. AT 17,000 SHEER VERTICAL FEET AND OVERHANGING 9,000 FEET, IT IS SURE TO NEVER HAVE A REPEAT - ESPECIALLY BY A WOMAN. THIS ROUTE EPITOMIZES THE HARD MAN CLIMBING EXPERIENCE.
PLEASE, GET ME CAUGHT UP ON THE LASTEST GOINGS ON HERE IN THE STATES AND IN THE VALLEY PROPER. WORD HAS IT THAT NOT MUCH HAS HAPPENED, WHICH IS SAD, IN THE TIME I HAVE BEEN GONE. A SOMEWHAT NOTABLE ASCENT BY THE GERMAN BROTHERS WAS DONE ON THE ZODIAC (WHATEVER), I HEARD SOME GIRL CLIMBED EL CAP FREE (SURE SHE DID....), DEAN POTTER ROYALLY F'ED UP AND LOST BOTH HANDS (STICK TO THE SLACK LINE, SLACKER), ANOTHER CHICK CLIMBED 5.14D (SURE SHE DID......) AND CHRIS SHARMA WAS BUSTED FOR WEED (NICE). SOUNDS LIKE I DIDN'T MISS MUCH.
AS MANY OF YOU KNOW, I AM THE LAST BASTION OF THE HARD MAN. MY GOAL IS TWO FOLD - TO CONTINUE IN THE TRADITION OF THE MANY HARD MEN WHO LAID THE FOUNDATION FOR CLIMBING AND TO ENSURE THAT THESE TRADTIONS ARE NOT OVER RUN BY THE GIRLY MEN AND WOMEN WHO ARE TRYING HARD TO DEGRADE OUR SPORT WITH THE USE OF BOLTS, 70 METER ROPES, GRIGRIS, RUBBER SOLED SHOES, CHALK, AND QUICKS-DRAWS. IT IS ALSO EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO ENSURE THAT THE MAN SPORT OF CLIMBING STAYS JUST THAT - A MAN SPORT - AND THAT WOMEN STAY AT HOME, IN THE SERVICE OF THE MAN.
SINCERELY,
BURT BRONSON
THE LAST BASTION OF THE HARD MAN.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
|
Vitaly-
Yes, that is exactly what you do with a docking tether, or use a 70m haul line and tie it off short leaving a tail to dock/lower out with.
So many guys I look up to, all of which have been named above.
|
|
NorCalNomad
Trad climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 01:27am PT
|
Prolific as me failing to spell check things :P
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:02am PT
|
Vitaliy - yes, you want to attach your pigs to the anchor with some type of cord that you can untie, rather than clipping it in with a carabiner which would force you to have to lift your pig in order to release it. Back in the day, you always saw guys making "mini hauls" just to unclip their damn pigs!
In an ideal big wall world where you have a partner and all pitches are plumb, clipping your pig in is not a big deal. Your partner lifts the pig, you unclip it, and away you go. But what if you are soloing? What if the pitch diagonals and when your partner pulls the haul line tight, it doesn't lift your pig in the right direction to unclip it?
What if you have a really big porker and non-existent biceps like me?! You might never be able to lift it.
I use a docking tether, which is a dedicated hunk of 7mm cord with a total length of about 15', doubled with a loop in the middle, so doubled in length it's about seven feet long. The loop goes through a Mexican locker which is rigged on the main suspension point locker of the pig. I add this extra Mexican locker because the swivel and other things can catch on the loop of the docking tether, and abrade it. The docking tether remains in place for the entire wall, dedicated to this purpose.
To dock the pigs to the anchor, I take the doubled cord and pass it through the carabiner to which it will be docked in a doubled munter hitch, then I take the two ends of the docking tether cord and twist them around each other about three times, then tie off the two ends with a bunch of square knots. You want to tie the munter, twists and square knots fairly tight so that when you release the tension in the haul line, the pig doesn't drop too far as the docking tether knots all tighten up under tension.
To dock your pigs, you could use a single hunk of cord, you could use your haul line, you could use a dedicated lower out line, whatever works best for you. I prefer the dedicated docking tether. The point is, it's tied to the anchor, not clipped.
When it's time to haul, I attach the pig to the haul line, and I attach it right at that point with an alpine butterfly. So if the pitch is 150' long and I have a 215' haul line, then I have 65' of spare haul line left over. Then I can use this excess haul line as a lower-out line. Get it?
Note: Be careful with this technique if it is windy and there are flakes! 65' of hanging haul line has the potential to come to grief. If it is windy and there are flakes, consider a separate lower out line, doubled, that you can retrieve and take up with you as you clean.
When docking, it's a good idea to back up this docking tether with a sling. I actually use an adjustable daisy, but here's the thing - make sure that you attach the docking tether in such a way so that you are pretty much obligated to unclip the adjustable daisy BEFORE you untie the docking tether! Otherwise if you forget, you will end up with your pig hanging on the adjustable daisy, and then you are sunk having defeated the purpose. I will usually take a tail of my docking tether and tie it through the adjustable daisy crab, just to make me remember to unclip it first.
Mark Hudon probably has some nice videos of this stuff someplace, or photos. Lots of stuff written on it, for sure.
Make sense?
|
|
Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:17am PT
|
What kind of adjustable daisy Pete? My partner on mescalito snapped his fish one when he shock loaded it in a fall while cleaning (in situ lower out piece popped). Wouldn't trust an adjustable daisy as a backup.
I hang my bags off a sling, backed up by the lower out end of the haul line. To release the bags, I run the lower out line through a pulley to a grigri and use my body as a counterweight to lift the bags the couple of centimeters required to unclip the sling from the anchor. I'm too stupid for Munter mules, so like to keep it simple.
|
|
nopantsben
climber
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:23am PT
|
you just tie the haulbag to the anchor as you would tie an injured person to an anchor.using a munter mule. voila.
if you do not know how to do that, you better check that first before you worry about haulbags!
|
|
Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:46am PT
|
Very informative Ben. Thanks for that.
|
|
Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:58am PT
|
Vitality, you have the right idea, just get a 20 ft piece of 7 or 8 ml perlon and attach it to your swivel or whatever master point is on top of the haulbag. Use a munter to attach it to the haul anchor and then tie it off with a mule knot. back up the pig with a clove hitch in the haul line and when you're ready to haul untie the clove, untie the mule and lower the bag off the munter thats already there. supa easy. I used to man handle the bags too until i decideded it sucked. If you havent lloked at a rock rescue book a lot of great ideas are in there and the pig is really just like dealing with a person except you're allowed to kick the pig.
|
|
nopantsben
climber
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 10:04am PT
|
Paul sorry if this came across smart-assed. but seriously, the munter mule is important, you should practice it and know how to do it. there is some videos on youtube and a lot of other info all over the internet...
|
|
Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 10:35am PT
|
I just looked at this thread again with the intention of redacting the previous post as sarcastic and unproductive. Will leave it there so your reply makes sense. That's my usual response for someone professing THE way of doing something, and implying other practices are somehow invalid though.
In reality Ben, I just hadn't looked at that technique before my last wall climbing trip and so used a method I was comfortable and confident with. I'll play around with Munter mules before my next wall trip. The main point of my first post was to illustrate that there are other, simpler and easy ways to release bags that don't necessitate one-arm-curling your bags with one arm and releasing them with the other.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
|
"I hang my bags off a sling, backed up by the lower out end of the haul line. To release the bags, I run the lower out line through a pulley to a grigri and use my body as a counterweight to lift the bags the couple of centimeters required to unclip the sling from the anchor. I'm too stupid for Munter mules, so like to keep it simple."
Yes, the mini-haul. An old school classic. Not an easy trick to accomplish, especially if you are on a hard nailup and have ten days or so of supplies in your pigs. If the pig weighs more than you, you may find yourself having to turn upside down and push against the rock with your feet to accomplish this task, while simultaneously attempting to unclip a carabiner.
"I used to man handle the bags too until I decided it sucked."
Ah. So there could be a Better Way... {wink}
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
|
Yup, like not bringing the ground up with you <WANK>
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
|
So when was the last time you climbed a wall, there, Stevey old boy?
|
|
The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
|
Real bigwallers don't wear profilactics.
When you smell the way they do, is there even a chance of needing one? ;)
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
|
In as laughably poor style as your best effort, Pete old bean, hasn't happened yet.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
|
Some Wall Folk have better Promotion Departments than others.
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:23am PT
|
Big wall techniques are a lot like the many, many different ways to brew coffee.
If you find one that you like and it works for you, then that's the perfect method for you.
There might be a "better" way, but if you like the method and result of the technique you're using, what can be better than that?
|
|
ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
|
The Better Way was coined by Chongo and we all know he had a similar style as the guy who claims "The Better Way" now, haa haa.
Bridwell has been posting on Facebook... so, my vote is: Bridwell, Middendorf and John Long.
It doesn't matter to me if they are not current climbing walls... they are the most prolific, in my mind.
|
|
Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
|
|
Is your profile pic Justin Beiber? Nice.
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
Klaus, Deuce and EC Pirate.
One of the best posts ever DMT . . . you are a clever man.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
That was funny as sh#t, Dingus!
If you find one that you like and it works for you, then that's the perfect method for you.
Well put. Jay-aero press-bro
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Dingus-
Fecking Awesum!
|
|
nah000
climber
canuckistan
|
|
"One time I napalmed the whole hill!"
nice work DMT, your whole post above is hilarious.
it's up there with yo's explication on the lowes as some of the funniest oc i've seen come out of this site.
|
|
deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
|
Ho man, nearly busted my gut this morning--too funny. I'm not that old though!
Cheers
|
|
dipper
climber
|
|
Post of the year DMT.
|
|
ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
|
|
I must have been drunk when I posted above. How could have I forgotten Klaus?
He is #1 in my book!
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Hilarious post Dingus!!!
|
|
can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2013 - 11:07am PT
|
Where's E in all this mess? He doesn't post a lot but he's around.
|
|
ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
|
You're one of my favorite posters DMT. Good stuff!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
|
Dingus - *cough cough*
"I make bear sh#t cool!"
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
|
That's a fish story!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
|
Here you go:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1228109&msg=1234911#msg1234911
From Clint Cummins in the thread:
Here's a related question - number of FAs/FFAs on El Cap, not counting base routes, but counting some routes/variations which are not independent the whole way. Here's a list of folks with more than 3 El Cap FAs/FFAs (from when this question came up on March 17):
5 John Barbella
5 Dale Bard
4 Steve Bosque
10 Jim Bridwell
5 Hugh Burton
5 Tommy Caldwell
4 Yvon Chouinard
4 Charles Cole
4 Jose Luis Gallego
6 Steve Gerberding
6 Steve Grossman
6 Alex Huber
4 Thomas Huber
7 Eric Kohl
8 Charlie Porter
4 Bill Price
I think that Eric Kohl probably has the most V/VI FAs, and Bridwell has quite a few as well.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
|
Whoah, Dingus - your post was brilliant! Much appreciated, must have taken hours. Winnebagos indeed.
You need to add E and his remarkable likeness [at least above the waist] to John Curtis Holmes.
And what of Holly and Kate??
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
|
Um, we're down. At least, I think we're down. The ground is flat, and it's more than three feet wide for a change. I am remembering how to walk again. The first few minutes on the ground you're stumbling around like a drunken fool, it's been so long since you walked. [Knott that we were knott drunken fools at times on the wall]
Kate's Yosemite nickname is Batgirl, so named for our first route together - the Ranch - when she climbed a proud and hard pitch with tons of bathook holes. Scary stuff, Count Floyd. Look up Batgirl and Yvonne Craig. I emailed back and forth with Yvonne a few times - nice lady. She was also the hot green chick in the original Star Trek series. Captain Kirk - the real Hoser Shatner, not the poseur Bland - probably shagged her. Or at least, I hope he did!
And Holly has retired to Arizona where the weather is clean and dry to raise Swiss Mountain Dogs, but I believe she has climbed more different El Cap routes than any other woman.
Kate must be close behind, and I am certain no woman has led more hard pitches than Kate has.
So there are a few more images you can work with!
Now if our Pirate would quit walking the plank and jumping in over such shallow water, he might actually be up on the wall instead of convalescing.
Again.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 49 of total 49 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!