Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Messages 1 - 71 of total 71 in this topic |
ec
climber
ca
|
|
'just think...that was the easy part!
Yikes!
ec
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
What a wanker. that dude had zero buisnes being up there unroped without a guide. Annother vote for simply dial 911 the moment you see a go pro on a climbing helmet cause you just know there is gonna be a wreck.....
|
|
tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
|
|
dude's lucky he didn't catch his crampons and break his ankles
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
That guy so lucky to be alive. His ass must hurt like hell.
|
|
Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
|
|
All hail tradmanclimbs.He is not a "wanker" and would not be there,unroped without a guide.Also,apparently he is impervious to falling ice.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Trust me on this one. that guy was a total wanker who does not know how to even hold his tools. I knew that guy was going to come off way before the falling object hit him. BTW when you are climbing and you get bombed, sink your tools, make yourself small, hunker up looking down, hang on and hope it hits your pack or helmet and take your lumps. Done it thousands of times. letting go and trying to catch it is butt ugly stupid wanker move..
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Eric showing proper form while getting bombed...
|
|
rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
been there; done that. Soloing Great White Icicle outside of Salt Lake. What is it, maybe 400 feet of moderate water ice, but falling on it would be way bad. Anyway, something biggish flew off the top, took a bad hop, and missed my face by millimeters only to whack my shoulder pretty damn hard. Maybe even skinned my nose as I jerked by head to the side. Anyway, I held my ground but learned a lesson. Climbing can be dangerous....
We were all wankers once. Some still are...
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
Agree with 'tradmanclimbs.' When there is falling ice from above you set your tools and lean into the slope to make yourself 1) as small as possible and 2) a low aspect ratio so if something does hit you it does so as a glancing blow and not 'head on.'
Of course, we will never know if the ice would have hit him or not, but very poor reaction by the climber.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
I live eat and breathe ice in the winter. Soloing had a good chunk hit above my ear but below the coverage of my POS half dome and split my skull to the bone. Never let go or even let it mess with my zone. topped out and hiked back to the van for medicinal whisky and home brewed butterfly stiches.. Been hit and bruised or taken it on the lid or pack too many times to even begin to count....
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
just from what you see of his hands and breathing he does not look solid. feels weak. no buisness soloing.
|
|
ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
|
|
looked like he tried to Dikembe Mutumbo the falling ice
|
|
RDB
Social climber
wa
|
|
I believe the guy broke both ankles if not legs as well.
Hooking a crampoin will do that every time given enough speed and leverage.
I wouldn't get too uppity though. Next piece of ice might well knock your own soxes off.
photo courtesy of Will Gadd
Nice shot of a tiny bit of spin drift. If it were serious you wouldn't even recognise a climber in there. Which isn't anything close to chunks of ice. Of course we all recognise that, right?
winter conditions...the kind we climb in on occasion
|
|
johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 12:08am PT
|
Here's a few Steve Stein took of me on the North Couloir of Yukla.
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 12:19am PT
|
Great sequence of shots there John Kelly.
I can't believe your belayer had the stones to keep shooting.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 07:50am PT
|
Sorry I don't have a better photo for you. 99.9% of the time I am the one on the sharp end not takeing photos..
Dude had a go pro on his head which increased his chances of falling by at least 200% Then there is the britt factor. Britts on ice= annother 200% increase in the odds of an accident.
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 08:18am PT
|
Did you catch the part at the end where he reaches up to check if his GoPro is still there?
|
|
couchmaster
climber
pdx
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 09:40am PT
|
Haha JohnKelly, I saw your first photo and thought...wow, that looks like a serious natural funnel hope that the rocks are frozen in solid and before the thought had finished scrolled into your next shots.....
Great photo sequence.
Looks like the definition of what "ButtHurt" is. You can't really tell how hard the snow is. It doesn't look like the gopro fella did any end over end cartwheels. Probably means it wasn't as steep as the camera lets on, as bad as that was, if he'd come off higher up it looks like it would have been much much worse. Dayam.
Buddy at work was showing me one of 2 guys who'd climbed to the top of a steep Mountain to ski off it, one dude appears to fall off before he can get his skiis set and the ensuring tumble misses the couilar it looks like they'd been thinking of, flies down a rocky headwall and really looks bad. But the guy is setting up at the end of it.
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 11:35am PT
|
Gotsta have priorities.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
|
Don't let the wankers give you a bad impression of ice climbers. It's not like we are all gumbys falling off easy climbs...
Here are some first class wankers ignoring common sense and belaying in the bomb zone of a totally baked out climb. this climb was in full sun most of the day. a huge part of the climb fell down while this guy was leading and 20 min later everyone is still standing under the chopping block and the leader is still climbing the unsafe route....
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
|
^^^^ Doods were desperate seeing as how the entry period for the Darwin Awards
was about to close.
|
|
Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
|
According the article I read, he broke an ankle. -Not fun to watch.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
|
Any of you guys read Joe Simpsons book? seriously, britts should not be allowed to own ice climbing equiptment.. It's dangerous stuff.....
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
|
How far did he go?
|
|
Will_P
Trad climber
Melbourne, Victoria
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
|
Gee you must be a real hardman, Tradman. Tell us more about your stoic nature while slagging off others. I think you've read too many of Tami's alpine cartoons and treid to model yourself on them.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
|
the britt thing is a joke. Read Joe Simpsons books. he fell off of almost everything he climbed.. read Hammish McGuiness book Call Out. There seems to be an ungodly number of rescues over in scotland. Many of them Britts. Both the victims and the SAR teams seem to be blind drunk in many of them...
|
|
bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
|
d00d is famous now... vid clip just made the CBS evening news.
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 01:57am PT
|
d00d is famous now... vid clip just made the CBS evening news.
Wow I didn't know they had a stupid human tricks segment.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 06:43am PT
|
One of my best partners is a Britt and way better climber than myself yet seems to attract johnny law, avalanches, Failed bolts W/groundfall, post climbing auto wrecks and fires w/ dubious circumstances ;)
|
|
Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 07:23am PT
|
^^^^^
That's irony old chap.....
It would be rude of me to suggest that as a nation 'you don't do irony' so for now it's just you ;-)
BTW, Doug Scott fell on a mountain, broke his legs and had to crawl down - he's crap as well.....
Steve
|
|
Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 07:28am PT
|
I'm on a roll now....... Shackleton - What a wanker!.....
Steve
|
|
Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 08:18am PT
|
Hi Craig,
I'm guessing that's not so work safe so I'll check it out tonight.....
Steve
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 08:33am PT
|
this tradman punk
is quite the pompous asse.
its entertaining though to
watch him stroke his swollen ego
in front of god and everyone,
pitching us always sweet, always (copyrighted)
glossies of his ever-valiant,
and supremely first-rate mountain escapades.
you, tradman own the mountain home,
sittin on your self-annoited thrown.
we wankers are just bumblin around
trying to keep pace with you 'trend setters,'
throwing our heads right in the path of ice-fall.
not tradman, no.
he can go all zen whenever and
just disappear hisself
with cool and calm control.
|
|
Enty
Trad climber
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 09:26am PT
|
Hi Craig,
I'm guessing that's not so work safe so I'll check it out tonight.....
Steve
Totally safe Blakey - a proper wanker on El Cap........
E
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 10:54am PT
|
Shackleton was a wanker - he lost his ship. That is an automatic court martial in the Royal Navy and even the US Navy.
|
|
Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
|
^^^^^
Will due respect to former colleagues........
'and even the US Navy'. Is that because they have so many ships they don't know when they've lost one, or that they are just massively 'shite'? ;-)
Steve
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
|
Blakey, just having you on, mate. As an old USN apologist I can sympathize
with your lot still being sore about our un-sporting 'frigates' in 1812. ;-)
|
|
Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
|
No offence taken or intended ;-)
We are drifting off topic here Reilly, but as a riposte, I thought it was the French Navy that did for us in that little war, and that we were somewhat distracted at that juncture by what was going on in Europe!
No offence taken or intended ;-)
Steve
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
|
If this 'topic' had any real value I would agree with you but I think our
nautical drift is more interesting. It is well known that the War of 1812
is little known, cared about, and certainly not taught in Blighty so I can
understand your wish to think that it were the Frogs who done ya for. But,
being well-versed in the subject, I can assure you that in single ship actions
we had the better of you with only the one glaring exception that being when
HMS Shannon had her way with our Chesapeake. ;-)
In order to appease the on-topic mavens I offer a pic of my luverly back
side poised over what your lot so quaintly are given to calling a 'gully'.
I am happy to report no butt-sliding occurred.
|
|
Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
|
But what a video!
|
|
Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
|
Reilly,
I have in my possession a book (Rik Winfield) that lists all French 50 Gun ships laid between 1688 and 1750, Very interesting. As is The Command of the Oceans, by Rogers - You've probably read the latter?
But they aren't as interesting as your photo, from your position it surely must be Gardyloo Gully..... Most folks take their pants off first though ;-)
Steve
EDIT. I forgot about the vid. I watched it this evening - Can't see what the fuss is about, that's how I usually go about jugging.
|
|
Jon Ratcliffe
Trad climber
UK
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
|
Tradmanclimbs you are soooo hardcore you cheat death, please tell us more of your epic trad solo stories they 're amazing! I bet you have a massive rack
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
Mar 12, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
|
Meh, bouldering is way cooler & better than this any day.
|
|
orle
climber
|
|
Mar 13, 2013 - 08:27am PT
|
Yeah, but what have you ever done on grit?
|
|
Beardymike
Mountain climber
Bath
|
|
Mar 13, 2013 - 08:31am PT
|
Not much. But I've done a bit on the Mot.
|
|
sowr
Trad climber
CA
|
|
Mar 18, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
|
Parsley Fern is a pretty basic gully - kind of an introduction for a lot of people, usually not a lot of ice, and if you're lucky good hard snow.
|
|
ashtond6
climber
Northampton
|
|
Mar 18, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
|
your an idiot, it's a grade 2 gully... And basically a steep snow plod, tonnes of those routes can be done around Wales and Scotland with just a single axe. You wouldnt think twice about climbing terrain like that in the alps unroped. He was just very unlucky.
|
|
Terri Payne
Trad climber
Purcellville, VA
|
|
Mar 18, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
|
Lucky he did not slash his own throat, dem tools is sharp.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Mar 18, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
|
Not bad luck. poor form, not strong enough and a bad decision.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
|
A bitd Philly street saying about covers it: "f*#k around, f*#k around, lay around and bleed."
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
|
You can bash me as much as you want but the video does not lie. when you see a strong competent climber soloing grade 2 gully they do not look like that and they certainly do not go over backwards trying to catch falling ice.
|
|
ExtraBlue
Ice climber
the ford VT
|
|
Mar 18, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
|
Tradman
A Is a badass climber.
B Is right.
|
|
Waide Lewis
Trad climber
Sacramento, ca
|
|
Mar 18, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
|
This is what happens to guys with lots of experience and over confidence...
Had 2 guys near Donner with 30 years experience die in ava's this year in the same weekend.It's easy to relaxed and over confident especially somewhere you have climbed numerous times before.. Watch your criticize...that might be you an some passive overconfident day..
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Mar 19, 2013 - 07:21am PT
|
No one is immune to a fall. the thing that got me going is obviously A. the go pro. 95% of the time we see a go pro ice climbing video it is a wreck. the way he holds his tools is a bit shaky. Not strong and confident the way you need to be if you are going to solo. The leaning back and trying to catch the ice trick is counter to everything a solid climber does in that situation. BTW you can be experienced yet not solid. Yes it is not cool to bash someone who gets hurt but on the other hand once you post the go pro footage it's open season;)
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Mar 19, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
|
Reading that report completly confirms my assement of the accident. My apologys for being a wise ass about it. My poor choice of words/gallows humor rant was brought on entirely by the Go Pro factor.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
Mar 19, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
|
once you post the go pro footage it's open season;)
Glad he is OK. Also glad he caught it on camera.
was brought on entirely by the Go Pro factor.
I read it as frustration with a culture more interested in showing their friends how bad ass they are, versus assessing an appropriate route based on skill and experience. But I got thick skin...
edit - woah, read the interview.
...Even though I’d been practising self arrest earlier in the month...
...If you had the day again, would you have done anything differently?
This is a difficult question. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. I think I’d have preferred to have my technical axes rather than walking axes on the steeper harder ground.
Yup. The problem was definitely the axes. Return that sh#t to REI son, get yourself some 2013 Cobra's and a pair of five fingers!!!
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
Mar 19, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
|
How can there be no mention in that interview/analysis of the fact that soloing on ice when other parties are above you is not the best choice of things to do on a winter day?
It's about as safe as soloing a loose rock climb below a bunch of other climbers.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
|
#1 Never climb ice under annother party. I you want to solo with your best budd that is fine but stay side by side. Do not let one climber get far enough ahead of the next climber to let the dinner plates pick up speed. If the climb bottlenecks at a difficult section find a sheltered place and anchor yourself in if possible. If not possible or nessicary to anchor then bury your axes, hunker down and hide behind your pack and helmet.
#2 The handeling of the axes is shaky. Not solid. you need to be solid to solo. Climbing for a great number of years is no gaurentee that you are solid. There are folks who have never lead anything harder than 4 who are solid. There are also kids who have led 5+ and are completly sketchy. Only alive through blind luck. There are folks who have climbed for decades who are sketchy and folks who have only climbed a few years who are solid. Solid is a state of mind combined with good technique and competence. Some have it. Some do not.
#3 treat the snow sections of a gully climb with as much if not more respect than the ice sections. Solid ice is your friend. Snow is the white death.
#4 never solo with unfamiliar equiptment. It can add a full grade or more to the climb.
#5 Never climb ice under annother party.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
|
I would add another rule:
#6 Never climb ice under another party.
and possibly also a seventh
#7 Never climb ice under another party.
|
|
Beardymike
Mountain climber
Bath
|
|
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
|
It's an awfully high horse you sit on isn't it. The guy made a mistake and got lucky. God forbid you ever make a similar mistake. This had nothing to do with strength. Parsley fern gully is shallow enough that you can stand in balance pretty much anywhere on it. It caught him by surprise and that really is the end of it. You can't always react the way the text book tells you to... Unless of course yourre you I.e. a superhero.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
|
The guy made a go pro video of his wreck and it went viral. WTH do you expect?
Accidents are rarely a single mistake. usually it is a combination of mistakes that cumulate in an accident.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
|
SuperTopo - where it isn't politically correct to post your opinion unless
it is Kumbaya Approved.
Tradman, didn't you know that?
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
Mar 19, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
|
Front pointing a Class 2 snow gully and trying to catch a falling ice chunk = ugly glissade. He was clearly out of his league.
|
|
Messages 1 - 71 of total 71 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|