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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 4, 2013 - 11:58am PT
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I'm copying gstock's post from the 2012 thread. It seemed worthwhile to have this year's info be a first post instead of buried at the end of last year's. I was surprised to se the West Side of El Cap and DNB closures.
esse is currently out of the park, so in his absence please note that Yosemite’s seasonal climbing closures to protect nesting peregrines goes into effect, starting today (March 1). The following areas are closed to climbing and slacklining:
Arch Rock Area – Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exceptions: routes west of and including “Later” and northeast of and including “Juliette’s Flake” remain open.
B.O.L.T. Wall – Immediately southwest of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on the B.O.L.T. Wall.
El Capitan, Southeast Face – Closure includes all big wall routes between and including “South Seas/Pacific Ocean Wall” to the west and “Native Son” to the east. At the base, the first 4 pitches of all routes within this area remain open.
El Capitan, Southwest Face – Closure includes all routes between and including “Peter Pan” east to the “Dihedral Wall”.
Hetch Hetchy – Closed area includes Kolana Rock and Wapama Cliff (immediately west of Wapama Falls).
Medlicott Dome – Tuolumne. Closure includes all routes between and including “Shambles” to “Bogey Meets Mr. Porcupine”.
Middle Cathedral Rock – Closure includes “North Buttress”, “Direct North Buttress”, “Ho Chi Minh Trail”, and the Kat Walk. At the base, the first 5 pitches remain open.
Rhombus Wall – Above Ahwahnee Meadow. Closure includes all routes west of “Super Slide” to the Ahwahnee Ramps, including all routes on the Rhombus Wall.
The Rostrum – Lower Merced Canyon. Closure includes “Super Nova” and extends west to all climbing routes on all sides of the Rostrum. The “Jungle Gym” area remains open. Slack-lining is prohibited at the summit and the top of the adjacent cliff.
Yosemite Point – Closure includes all routes between and including “Yosemite Point Buttress” and Yosemite Point Southwest Face, “Min-Ne-Ah”. At the base, the first 5 pitches remain open.
Here’s some additional information on Yosemite’s climbing closures:
1) The Peregrine Falcon is a fully protected species in California and a special status species in Yosemite due to its sensitivity to disturbance during the nesting season.
2) Nest sites will be monitored closely by a full-time park service biologist in order to lift closures promptly (last year several closures were lifted by April 9).
3) The initial list of closures apply only to nesting sites that meet at least one of the following criteria: (1) active at least 2 out of the last 4 years; (2) active last year (2012); (3) active 1 out of the last 3 years.
4) The NPS website will be updated throughout the peregrine nesting season (March 1 – July 15) with the most current list of closures: http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Good idea on a fresh thread, IMO.
Closures for Zion National Park are now also in effect. Included are all of Angel's Landing, the Shield Wall, and most routes by the tunnel. There are other areas closed as well, so please contact the back country desk prior to arranging a trip.
As with Yosemite, they will open some routes once they know where the nesting pairs are, usually by mid April. The closures usually will not lift until mid July or so.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I wigged out last year when I found out that my intended El Cap route would be closed but the closure was lifted well before I arrived so I'm not going to worry to much about it this year. Aside, I'm a friend of the peregrine, they like me.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Saw this on mountain project:
"Fifi Buttress To Close!
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. "
I hadn't seen this listed on the Yosemite site.
Is this correct info?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I'm more curious about the closure of the Kat Walk, since that effectively closes the East Buttress and the NE face routes that would normally use the Kat Walk for a descent. Do I understand correctly?
John
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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To clarify, the closure on the Kat Walk only includes that portion above the routes that are closed (DNB and adjacent routes). The Kat Walk is still open as a means of descending from the East Buttress.
Greg
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Thanks for the clarification, Greg.
And DMT, yes, I am, but my window of opportunity is closing rapidly, so I suspect I'll have to wait until later and deal with the crowds.
John
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Ron, are you blind? Don't you see the stark terror in that Peregrine's
eyes as he looks at Hudon? Or am I mistaking that look for him jonesing for
a cuppa?
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Here is the Zion wall list, visible at http://www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2013-climbing-closures.htm EDIT - just noticed this was already posted upthread. My bad.
Even though the Shield Wall isn't listed here, I got an email from them when I requested info about that area specifically, and the response is that Shield is closed as well. So I would call ahead and double check on any route.
Date: February 21, 2013
Contact: Alyssa Baltrus, 435-772-0160
Contact: Cassie Waters, 435-772-0212
Climbing routes on cliffs used by nesting Peregrine Falcons in Zion National Park will be temporarily closed beginning March 1, 2013, in order to protect the nesting success of this bird which is in recovery from "endangered species" status. The closing date is based on analysis of information collected from 2001-2012 regarding the peregrines' arrival time to their nesting cliffs in the park.
The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2013: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing.
Park biologists will monitor the nesting activity of Peregrine Falcons in the park throughout the 2013 breeding season. Cliffs that have been closed but are not being used by nesting peregrines this year, will be reopened when nest sites have been determined, typically by late April or early May. Those cliffs being used this year will be monitored until the chicks fledge, usually in late July, and then will be reopened to climbing.
Zion National Park is home to a high concentration of breeding Peregrine Falcons each spring and summer. These magnificent birds of prey were listed as an "endangered species" in 1970 under the Endangered Species Act. Their decline was primarily due to pesticides like DDT, which caused the female to lay thin-shelled eggs that were easily broken, killing the developing embryo inside. Thanks to the U.S. ban on DDT in 1972, as well as the success of captive breeding programs, peregrine populations have recovered across North America and the species was delisted in 1999. Zion National Park has been and continues to be an important sanctuary for peregrines and other species. Even when peregrine populations were plummeting elsewhere, they continued to successfully nest and raise their young on the tall cliffs found in the park.
For up-to-date information on the status and maps of the closed climbing cliffs, please check the Zion National Park website at www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/climbing.htm.
Climbers are responsible for checking th
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Tez
Mountain climber
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Mar 15, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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Bump in case you missed it when this was first posted
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 18, 2013 - 10:53am PT
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2013 Yosemite Climbing Closures
Closures Due to Peregrine Falcon Protection
The peregrine falcon is a fully protected species in California and a special status species in Yosemite due to its sensitivity to disturbance during the nesting season. To protect this species, the superintendent of Yosemite National Park is designating peregrine nesting cliffs as areas closed to visitor use, including climbing and slack-lining activities, until peregrine chicks have fledged and dispersed from those areas in 2013. By order of the superintendent of Yosemite National Park and under authority of Title 36, Code of Federal Regulations, Section 1.5(a) and Section (a)(1): The following areas are identified as cliffs closed to visitor use, including climbing activities, beginning March 1, 2013 and remaining in effect until July 15, 2013, or until further notice:
Arch Rock Area - Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exceptions: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open.
B.O.L.T. Wall - Immediately southwest of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on the B.O.L.T. Wall.
El Capitan, Southeast Face - Closure includes all big wall routes between and including "South Seas/Pacific Ocean Wall" to the west and "Native Son" to the east. At the base, the first 4 pitches of all routes within this area remain open.
El Capitan, Southwest Face - Closure includes all routes between and including "Peter Pan" east to the "Dihedral Wall."
Hetch Hetchy - Closed area includes Kolana Rock and Wapama Cliff (immediately west of Wapama Falls).
Medlicott Dome - Tuolumne. Closure includes all routes between and including "Shambles" to "Bogey Meets Mr. Porcupine."
Middle Cathedral Rock - Closure includes "North Buttress," "Direct North Buttress," "Ho Chi Minh Trail," and the Kat Walk. At the base, the first 5 pitches remain open.
Rhombus Wall - Above Ahwahnee Meadow. Closure includes all routes west of "Super Slide" to the Ahwahnee Ramps, including all routes on the Rhombus Wall.
The Rostrum - Lower Merced Canyon. Closure includes "Super Nova" and extends west to all climbing routes on all sides of the Rostrum. The "Jungle Gym" area remains open. Slack-lining is prohibited at the summit and the top of the adjacent cliff.
Yosemite Point - Closure includes all routes between and including "Yosemite Point Buttress" and Yosemite Point Southwest Face, "Min-Ne-Ah." At the base, the first 5 pitches remain open.
Nest sites will be monitored to provide current information on nesting status and to ensure prompt re-opening of these areas. Closures are subject to change based on current nesting status. Your cooperation in complying with these temporary restrictions is greatly appreciated.
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Apr 18, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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Will the SE face closures update soon for specific routes? Where are the birds this year?
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Apr 18, 2013 - 11:15am PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 18, 2013 - 11:29am PT
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Alfred Hitchcock really had no idea how disruptive birds could be.
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Apr 18, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
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Is Hudon some sort of Falcon Whisperer or a small but powerful wizard? Cool encounter for sure.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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this closure need to be updated from ornithologist - who's monitoring the birds.
Previous year at this time ( mid april) some of the restrictions was lifted when birds was set up in the nests
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Apr 18, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
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Lots of folks have had close encounters with falcons.
They're ok, mostly.
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Apr 18, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
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this closure need to be updated from ornithologist - who's monitoring the birds.
Previous year at this time ( mid april) some of the restrictions was lifted when birds was set up in the nests
I emailed the NPS and got this response:
"You can always find the current closures at http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm. I understand that there is an update to these closures coming very soon, but don't have any additional information right now.
Jeffrey"
Hoping for healthy falcons nesting not on el cap, because I'm selfish.
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