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Messages 1 - 42 of total 42 in this topic |
Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 28, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
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I was looking for the Zanderland youtube video of Zander's narrows simulator, when I found this. Looks hard to me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30KS8fqi7gU
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Feb 28, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
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I believe Chick Holtkamp did some of the those underpass cracks in the Cleveland area in the late '70s, and early '80s.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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Chick Holtkamp climbing Cleveland cracks
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
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Dave Koster and someone I can't remember - Rocky River maybe
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
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that video is kinda crazy.
no cams in Cleveland I take it.
it's LNT sport climbing for sure
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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At Whipps Ledges circa 1981
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
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Whipps Ledges
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
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Tuned out early when i saw a dude liebacking a gold camalot crack.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
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Woody Stover at Whipps Ledges
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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I used to run into Woody a lot at Hinckley. What a great place! Also, the woman in the '81 photo, was her name Linda? A dancer?
Cams can easily pull out of parallel cement cracks.
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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Mr. Stover running laps on Yellow Wall...I love whipps; learned how to smoke the lettuce out of an icicle at that place.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Heh, heh lettuce out of an icicle pipe. Yes her name is Linda and she was a dancer don't have any idea what happened to her. Would love to find some way to connect with Woody, the man gave me some pretty profound life lessons that I have stuck with over 30 years and I share with my kids. Laps on Yellow Wall :-). Haven't been back there for way too long
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I like the clipping arrangement.
Good to see Zanderland! I forgot that Alan Steck was in that one. A memorable evning!
Off to pump Wyde sandstone after some more coffee....
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Woefully lacking in style, what I'd expect from Cleveland.
"Practicing" clips on a tr?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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One nice thing about climbing there is you get twice as much life from a 60 meter rope....you just cut it in half.
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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30 meter rope is perfect for there, Mr. Donini. Just the right length to reach those beloved ice cicles. Hueco Boulder anyone?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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The Hinckley Heathens used to meet for climbing on Thanksgiving and Christmas days. Man, was it f*ing cold, sometimes. But lot's 'o fun. Great bouldering there, too.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Alas, I was never old enough to actually buy my own beer at Sarge's after a cold bouldering session.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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I'm guessing Mouse from Merced is originally from Pittsburg?
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Mcreel, now I'm curious if our paths ever crossed on one of the crisp fall days. Hinckley Heathens...makes me smile with a ride on the way back machine.
Elliott
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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You guys would be surprised at what else has been developed out there. Chippewa creek down the road has even more potential than beloved Whipps. Kind of like a miniature Coopers Rock. You climb the rock you've got, not the rock you wish you had, to paraphrase Rummy Rumsfeld.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Elliot: no doubt we ran in to each other a few times, I was out there quite a bit in the early to mid '80s, and then sporadically during the late '80s. I guess my last visit was Christmas of 2000/2001. I used to climb there with my brother Scott, and you could often hear Woody saying "You're doing it wrong, Scott!".
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Looking at that "Whipps Ledges circa 1981" photo again, I think that the person on the far R might be me. Looks a lot like me, at any rate.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Person on the far right was Don...forgetting last name...mcreel? Last time I saw Don was on a trip through Boulder, CO in 1982. Left Cleveland in 1982 and and only spent very limited time in Hinckley since. It would be very cool to reconnect with Woody.
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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McReel, Robinson, did you guys take the Journey to the Sun?
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Moved to California in 1982, convinced that Cleveland WAS the center of the universe and thinking 4 years of college was going to be it...but somehow it was too hard to ever stray more than 4 hours from Yosemite.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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A few icicles, no lettuce
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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A couple more old Hinckley photos. It would be great to see some more modern ones from around Cleveland and Akron
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Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2013 - 12:57am PT
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For those who cut out early, watch the whole thing. I was telling someone at work that I know people who would use a lot less energy climbing it by jamming the crack, but the lieback seemed to be his warmup for the down climb and finally the ascent in offwidth style.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Roxy,
To expand on what mcreel said.
Climbing cams WILL FAIL on concrete
That's the reason for the 'chain draws'
If all underpasses were climbing venues, there would be less vandalism, saving cities thousands of dollars every year.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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A large ch0lk bag or a small butterfly net?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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That's a towel, not a chalk bag. People tried to keep use of chalk to a minimum. On the sandstone, a chalky hold would become a slippery, slimy mess when wet. Also, some of those areas were access sensitive a while ago, so it was important to keep visual impact low.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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A couple more old Hinckley photos. It would be great to see some more modern ones from around Cleveland and Akron
Uh...nothing has changed.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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If all underpasses were climbing venues, there would be less vandalism, saving cities thousands of dollars every year.
Now that sounds like a good urban idea. Didn't Portland, OR do something like that with a skate park? Called Burnside or something like that.
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HuecoRat
Trad climber
NJ
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Climbed fequently at Hickley and across from the middle school in Shaker Heights (over by the shaker lakes)in the late 80's. Lots of traverses in the gorge by the school, as well as several topropes. I remember a big roof with a thin, horizontal flake in it that always looked like it would snap, but never did. At Hinckley I recall a route called South America because of a feature on it, and a wide crack with a block that looked like a horse's head. I also remember doing a lead on the back side of an "island." There was an old bolt you could clip by putting a wired stopper over it. There was some cool stuff down by the O wall, including a sort of swiss cheese wall. Some good corners, too, and a friction boulder called "Sunshine," I think. Right of the O wall was a huge hanging tree trunk we called the widowmaker, that would have killed anyone under it if it had cut loose.
I was working as a freelance musician, and I picked up extra work at Newmann-Adler. Is that place still around? I worked at the shop on Mayfield, with Gary Newmann. Chris ran the shop on the west side. At Gary's urging, I worked as a guide out of the store, taking clients to Seneca as well as to Hinckley. Anybody else work there?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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There's a route called Sally + Don, because the chiseled graffiti is an important hold on the route. The chiseling in this case was not done by climbers, though.
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WillieKS
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Aug 14, 2018 - 07:31pm PT
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The woman in the 1981 Whipps Ledges photo is Linda Ferrato from Stow. I remember climbing with others in the picture, but don't recall their names other than Woody (David).
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WillieKS
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Aug 14, 2018 - 07:35pm PT
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Aug 15, 2018 - 05:50am PT
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So cool. Woody was an incredible influence for me - both climbing and perspective on the world.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Went to Hinckley yesterday, looks like there's a lot less climbing there nowadays.
Stopped by Cuyahoga Falls today.
Fricken global warming it was in the mid90's and muggy.
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