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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 28, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
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This is for those still getting it done.
It is obvious that we are no longer 25. Thank goodness.
But a serious question none the less.
I had a client that I took up Rainier for his 50th. At the time I was thinking, "geesus man, get with it, you are OLD!" He seemed old for 50!
At 50 I didn't think much about soloing Rainier on a good day. But I don't think of myself as "old".
There is so much more that goes into climbing. Staying fit, sure. The past experience even more so. And how much you get out.
If I was 30 again and some "old farts" at 60 said they were going to do the Cassin in 24 hrs or El Cap in a day I might shake my head but I would hold my tongue.
So much more to life and so little time. What is your thought..at 60 or close to it, on climbing serious onjectives?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
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As my countdown to 62, and the consequent eligibility for a Golden Turkey stands at 108 days, I think about that quite a bit. My reality is that while I have continued to climb, I have also continued in my life's work in the law and economics, which limits what I can do in the mountains.
I will say this: While I'm neither as strong nor as flexible as I was 40 years ago, I'm not near my deathbed, either. I'm struggling right now to get back in shape after a year's layoff following Achilles tendon surgery, but I'm progressing and expect to get in sufficient shape to be able to climb better than a 20-year-old dilettante at climbing. Still, I will never be able to compete with a dedicated 20-year-old climber.
So what? At one time, I was essentially competing against the world bouldering. Now, I've chosen to compete against the world elsewhere, but that's secondary. I remain my main competition. I try to do better than I think I can, and doing so still gives me immense satisfaction. Besides, I happen to find pleasure in the physical act of moving over vertical rock.
Now Lowe and Donini on the other hand. . .
Good thread, and I look forward to others' responses.
John
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
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I'll get this in early. But I really do what to hear other's thoughts.
When I can actually dedicate some time to it I feel like I can get back to what I find an acceptable standard for my own objectives. I don't think it is an age thing or a fitness thing as much as it is a "time" thing.
Given enough time I would know exactly what I am capable of physically. But without the time to train and climb it is hard to match my own objectives with my fitness level and most importantly my comfort level mentally.
Curious to the thoughts of guys who have been out there climbing almost full time. I remember Jack Roberts telling me he was dissappointed how slow he was in the mtns these days. It was a great line right up until you tried to follow along or climb with him. And this from a guy who's feet were trashed!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 28, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
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Although we are no longer made of rubber past 60, I think what goes through our heads is what really makes us what we are. I too had a serious Achilles injury just before my 60th birthday last year, and at first I let it bum me out as an age thing, and then I got back into healing mode and came back really strong, like it never happened. The advantage of being a lifelong athlete is being able to compare what's going on now with what happened 40 years ago, and seeing that it's not all that different. Personally, my biggest challenge is still, after all these years, dealing with anxiety and fear of climbing! If it were not for my anxiety and fear I could go out and do a much better job of snuffing myself!
Climbing for me has always been about the beauty of the environment, not so much challenging it - so that makes it safer for me.
But without the time to train and climb it is hard to match my own objectives with my fitness level and most importantly my comfort level mentally.
Roger Bannister, when he trained to break the 4 minute mile, had no time. He learned to do what he needed to do in a very specific low-time way.....and he did not OVER-TRAIN. Not having time can maybe make it easier to train more effectively. What we really want is just more time to be out - that's the best training of course.
Use it or lose it is a good motto. A person can lose it at any age.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
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Just turned 60 this year...I'll tell you one thing - no matter how little I climb or what grade I climb, it's my passion for climbing, and my desire to be fit enough to do approaches and descents that gives me the motivation to stay as fit as I can. When it's yet another salad for dinner, or protein shake for lunch, when it's yet another push to get to the gym and do that workout when I'd rather sit and read a book, it's the dream of climbing days ahead that keeps me from becoming a plump little old coach potato.
Phyl
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Feb 28, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
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I turn 60 in June...had open heart surgery just under two years ago. Back to climbing 5.12, hiking with my wife and Lab everyday, plus traveling a lot to Mexico, Central and South America.
My big goals this year is tick off a few 5.13's, Go birding in Colombia, and spend more time with our grandchild.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 28, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
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Am sixty and am still doing reasonable ground-up, dogless, multi-pitch FAs, though I intend for my current project to be the last R/X job I put up or attempt.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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The motor is still gud but the chassis and running gear are thrashed and I don't trust mechanics.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Feb 28, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
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Depends on what your definition of serious objectives is. I'm still learning and growing, doing things I've never done before or haven't done in 30 some years. Hope to pull off a backpack snow camp in two weeks. Never done that before. But I doubt I'll do El Cap in a day.:S Smiles, lynne
Edit: McHale's Navy, sure there are some age related physical stuff that happens to us as we age, but you can pull an Achilles as well at 30 as you can at 60. I try real hard not to attribute everything to aging. My kids forget things just as much as I do and the 20's group where I am employed are always working out too hard and then suffer a variety of aches, pains and knots.
Locker hit it.....listen to your body. It speaks wisdom in perfectly understandable English. :S
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Feb 28, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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Heading toward 62 in July and still have much I'd like to accomplish in the mountains. I have no regrets from the many distractions that kept me from being as active as I'd often dream. A professional career, a family, a business etc. gave me much to be thankful for and provided that much more of a richer experience chasing mountain dreams while continually trying to balance those duties and responsibilities with time in the mountains.
Now as I'm getting closer to the end of an active career and business having secured a future I can impliment some of those dreams. I've always wanted to go on a shoulder and summer season road trip for climbing and chase storms across the west for powder all winter long. I've bought the van, I've got the will, I've got an understanding wife, I've got resources, I just hope to hell my body holds up!!! We're nothing but soft tissue in a world of hard and sharp objects doing what we do, yikes!!!
My mantra is not to get injuried yet I managed to ski this winter in flat light under storm conditions off the top of a frozen water fall flat onto lake ice 12 feet below. My dynafit bindings shattered as I pitched forward and landed on both knees....ouch!!! God are my knees ever sore, I'm just thankful for those brown M&M's and other medications:
Keep moving up, keep charging down, ski/climb hard and take chances!!! It was always good then and it's great now Berg Heil!!!
Charlie D.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Feb 28, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
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A couple years ago, at 59, I got very motivated to climb the Bachar Yerian. I lost 10 pounds and climbed lots of 5.11 and 5.12 and had one of the best summers of climbing ever and finished off with the B & Y. Since them I have had a serious of injuries that have slowed me down a little but I am still climbing hard. I think attitude and climbing with someone that pushes you some are the keys to keep climbing as hard as you can. At the same time I love to go climb fun and easy routes all the time. I love being outside, with friends, and moving over stone. I still live for the sharp end too and this is maybe the most surprising thing to me.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 28, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
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The old Groucho line about how if I'd known I was going to live this long I'd have taken better care of myself comes to mind.
I'm in a transition.
My peak climbing years are certainly behind me, but my best marksmanship years could still be ahead of me.
But part of that climbing retrospective is a function of context.
I started climbing in '68 with wool knickers, Kronhaufers and pitons for pro.
I saw a good three or more revolutions occur in the sport over the next few decades. A hundred years from now if there are any climbing historians then they will have wanted to have been my contemporary.
I was simply in the right place at the right time.
Todays generation of climbers seem to care little about where they fit into the progression. They aren't even good stewards of the resource.
It would be a whole lot easier to be jazzed about doing more climbing were that not the case, but I'm not complaining. I got more than my share.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Feb 28, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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Age is like an obstacle on a single-track trail...if you focus on the obstacles , you'll hit them....If you focus on age , you'll grow old....
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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Feb 28, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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Made it to the sixties. Still climb. Still putting up routes and making bike trails. Still doing fire research. My main partner has a couple of years on me and it still doing upper 5.12 and working on the next grade. A couple of winters ago 4 of us (plus a young kid about 53) did our (35 year aniversary - from college) ski trip for 2 weeks into the Wind River Range. Took of a extra day to make it into Island Lake but we made it. It's all good. Always was. We never take any freeze dried food in but I hear it lighter. We just been doing it to long to switch but I do have some of those new cam things.
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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Feb 28, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
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I'm 64, have been at it since 16. Long time ago, an old climber back in the old country said to a bunch of us at a campfire, don't stop, don't relax, keep going, keep climbing, hiking, skiing and enjoying the outdoors. Do not let anything stop you, ever...I think that is a good way to go about climbing and life in general...
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 28, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
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Still climbin'. Wish I were climbin' like Donini, but
I never have anyway. But I keep it up, and may
get up the occasional hard climb. . .
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Feb 28, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
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At 60 go for it. Mere youth!
;>)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 28, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
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Hell at 60 you can still party AND climb......pretty soon you'll have to choose one or the other.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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At 55, I am hoping that my body still works at 60 since that is when I get to retire and do a few more objectives. I was never a first class climber. I still do objectives that are serious for me:
At 50, led a group of 30 - 40 year old men up Rainier. Enjoyed my 50th birthday in a t-shirt on the summit of Rainier
Attempted Denali at 53.
Did The Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk at 55 all in a day.
I have a longer climb with a shorter approach planned this summer.
Been hitting the gym the last three winters, and it has turned back the clock a few years.
Need to plan some rest days each month. But punching out 5,000 vertical feet, running 26, climbing 20 pitches - all still very reasonable.
I haven't been able to touch my toes since I was 25, but I am hoping to get closer than I have in several decades with this new program.......
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Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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Looking at old geezers can be quite inspiring. At 65, I look up to Carlos Soria Fontán for motivation. Donini is quite a bit younger and probably also looks up to him. Check his rap sheet at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carlos_Soria_Font%C3%A1n
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 28, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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I haven't been able to touch my toes since I was 25, but I am hoping to get closer than I have in several decades with this new program.......
This could be more difficult for those that have long legs and short torsos. When I was young I wondered why I had such a hard time with it - I have a 35" inseam and am 6' tall.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 28, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Nearly everything I did when in my teens and 20s albeit slower, less intense and fewer miles. What bothers me the most is declining flexibility. The popularity of yoga helps.
There were some things, like mountain biking that wasn't around when I was much younger. I love it but will never get as proficient if I had started in my 20s. Marathons just aren't fun anymore but half s are.
Injuries occur more easily and healing much longer, with always a little "kink or hitch" remaining.
The popularity of strength training helps immensely. It wasn't something for "girls" back in my 20s.
Anyway, most things are still working...just more TLC and preventative care needed. Like a beloved old car.
Susan
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Feb 28, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
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Yo Alois, great advice from the roots of our passions...where in the old country? Sounds like you and I may have crossed paths or even shared a rope seasons ago? I climbed there at your local crag through the mid to late sixties back when Suicide was seldom visited and JT was a practice area for the real thing!!! Too funny how things change, I could easily spend the rest of my days on crags as fine as Suicide and JT. Tahquitz is close to my heart, it haunts me with fond memories of great friendships and countless adventures. Hope to return soon.
A hardy Berg Heil to all,
Charlie D.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Feb 28, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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I think it is all about passion. To Dream...to believe.....to try!!
El Cap solo this summer at age 60. Summit or not I win !!!!
Cracko
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 28, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
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Well, Gene's coming over Saturday and we'll discuss what's worth climbing as a pair of 60-somethings. I haven't actually roped for a climb since about '96, so this season's gonna be interesting.
The fact remains that I have lost approximately 70 pounds in the last twenty-four months. I looked at my picture from the bike race two years ago this weekend and decided Santa Claus had to go. The beard went first, and then the lard.
I haven't done much to prepare for climbing, as always, but I've tried to increase my capacity to walk and to endure the pain in the knees. The crux for me will be how strong my knees are, but I could be wrong. I've been coughing up bloody sputum this week as well, but that's part of the athsma, and will likely go away as it's done before.
There is so much more that we have to worry about if we get the tiniest bit out of shape as we age. At least I never had a very strong body, like John Long, for instance, and so I am not expecting very much at all, especially at first. And any goals will be necessarily modest, I presume. I'm not trepidatious; no, I'm just really curious to see how my mental preparation and the minimal stretching and isometrics I've been doing have helped.
The "Piss of Fear" will take much longer than it used to, I know that!
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
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I hear you, Mouse, and I have to agree.
For some of us the years have weighed more heavily than it has for others.
Still the point has always been to have fun, and I think we can all reach for that goal.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
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On the positive side....have all you dudes, few dudettes on this thread, looked around you and seen how much better shape you are in than some 20,30,40,50 year olds?
I just made a better time going up Mt. Monserate to qualify for snow camp than a 38 year old who has to do it again cause he was too slow.
So many talented people here. Age is a reflection in a pond and what it mirrors back is who you are today, what the years have crafted you into. It doesn't measure us, it embraces who we are today.
Thankful for today and what it holds. lynne
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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At 60 go for it. Mere youth!
;>)
depends where you placed in the genetic lottery.
At 62 there's some unfinished business that I'd better get done before the joints completely freeze up.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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One very positive move those of you who are young or middle-aged and are so afflicted can accomplish : Stop smoking.
Lately I have been made aware of friends and relatives who have had the habit for many years and who suffer from a variety of destructive conditions. I have been shocked by the quantity of ailments I see. These are mostly people younger than me (I am 76) and to see them having blocked arteries, open-heart surgery, blood clots, lung-prostate-bone cancer, COPD, poor circulation, withered skin, hearing lose, vision problems and more, including the appearance of being ten years older than their chronological age is tragic.
I know there are rebuttals and excuses and counter-examples pertinent to my comments, but please give what I say some thought. Keep breathing and keep climbing.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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May of 2016 will be the 40th anniversary of Max's and my first El Cap route together, The Nose. I'll be 60 and he'll be 58.
We're already planning to climb it in a day that year.
Cracko, I am so rooting for you!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I'm heading for seventy. I've been climbing for 56 years fer chrissakes. Like Ron, I've lived through every modern revolution in the sport, having started ten years before him on my journey through history.
I think I remember being sixty, but not sure. My golden years have a way of blending together; must be the glare of all those ingots. I'm coming off nearly a year lay-off from an acl repair operation. I don't think either 5.12 or NIAD is in my future at this point, but I guess I could be pleasantly surprised. I have lots of interests, climbing is certainly one of them, but there are other passions which have also endured for 56 years.
I enjoy climbing, do it regularly, am not yet an embarrassment to my generation, and expect to continue as long as it is fun. After that, if still alive, I plan to stop.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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What a great thread! A lot of us 60+ year olds refusing to throw in the towel and following Neils mantra " Better to burn out than to rust"
Age is just a state of mind.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I second John's post about smoking - really bad news having seen someone die from COPD close up. Definitely one of the uglier ways to go and once that cascade starts you're screwed. Ugh.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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I turned 60 three months ago. Looking forward to my 16th El Cap ascent this year, my eighth in a push, and my seventh in under a day. Half Dome and a route in the Black are on my list as well.
More significant than age is the fact that it will be 60 years ago in August that I contracted paralytic Polio. Over 40 years now dealing with Post Polio Syndrome. Lots of other serious injuries have made things more interesting still.
Hope to follow the example of Jim Donini and still be making my way to the top of the Captain in another decade. Though all I am doing is jugging, each ascent is still a memorable and powerful experience!
It is all a matter of how badly you want it.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Just turned 60 this year...I'll tell you one thing - no matter how little I climb or what grade I climb, it's my passion for climbing, and my desire to be fit enough to do approaches and descents that gives me the motivation to stay as fit as I can. When it's yet another salad for dinner, or protein shake for lunch, when it's yet another push to get to the gym and do that workout when I'd rather sit and read a book, it's the dream of climbing days ahead that keeps me from becoming a plump little old coach potato.
+1, at least.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Todays generation of climbers seem to care little about where they fit into the progression. They aren't even good stewards of the resource.
This is not true. Not all of us youngsters can't appreciate the past, myself i find it inspiring, and can spend hours talking about BITD with those if your generation I have connections with. As for the environment, I love being in nature and try my best to leave no trace whenever possible.
All that being said, I just aged to near death in less than 30 seconds. I hope to regain my former self, but am not fooling myself that it will be easy or possible.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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I'm turning 67 this July.
I am certain that if I didn't have severe back problems, I would be a real powerhouse in the mountains. I'm stronger now than when I was 20, but certainly not as limber.
I viewed new x-rays yesterday of my back, which were entertaining in not a good way. My lower back is starting to fuse together, since there is no disk space left, with severe displacement in several spots.
Last summer, I hiked the Grand via the Upper Exum, car to car in 10 hours, and did the NEB of HCR in Yosemite, in pretty good time. I've been working out all winter, and hope to have another good year, once all this damn snow leaves.
Still can't keep up with good old Donini, but then again he is an anomaly!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Turned 60 a few weeks ago, it’s just a number I tell myself… but my bod says otherwise.
Been climbing for 40 years and like many on this site I still get out all the time- almost every weekend.
I have always struggled with weight and the earlier statement, by Phylp about salads’ hits home.
Mouses claim about losing 70 lb also hits home because I have lost 60 lbs before, it’s a huge change in your body.
Maybe we should get together this summer and cruse some of the fine climbs at Courtwright.
I am lucky to be able to have Stoney Point as a focus for my climbing; I always have younger climbers to climb with. I get a lot of motivation and energy from them as well as enjoyment when I can share a cool climbing place or boulder problem.
Sometimes, when one of these youngsters figures out my true age they pay me a huge complement by saying something like this: “ your 60 – sh#t- my dad is 49 and he can’t even get up off the couch or walk uphill….. you just hauled me up a 5.10” ….
So 60 is just a number along the path, I hope to keep moving till the end.
You old guys - Jogill, Donini, PhilG, Alois, G_Gnome and all the rest of you, please show the way... Im following.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Sh#t, You guy's are badass I just turned 48 I don't know if i'll even be walking at 60!!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Part of this is the attitude of regeneration for me. I have been feeling like someone left the gate open, so it may have something to do with adjusting to not having to get up to grind it at work every morning. I am free and anything may be possible, and there are others "egging" me on, showing me the way. And a shitload of telebishion commercials making me aware of my new status.
Who was it who said, "It's all in the mind, innit?" Ringo?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGlOUc0LTiE
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mareko
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Lets see, I'm going to see my 55th this year. My thoughts, I have a great crew of climbing partners and still climbing strong. Its an addiction I will never quit. Being outdoors with my good friends, feeling the granite or sandstone, checking out an amazing line that you JUST HAVE TO DO. Maybe a few takes. But its climbing and the roadtrips and the friendships.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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I feel the same kenny, but I'm not sure I'll be walking at 50.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Just turned 50 a few weeks ago. What a great day-a celebration of community, friends, the love of my extremely tolerant wife. We roasted a whole pig, ate drank and laughed all night long. So yeah, it's possible to enjoy your geezer years. I too have had to adjust my goals-it's probably unrealistic to imagine doing something in pakistan, but i can probably manage something NTB in Cham or Peru. I think that's the thing-wisely, realistically evaluating your goals-I may never do tradewinds on the hulk, but i can surely do the regular route (whatever that is...). For me, the new concentration is on longer, not as difficult b/c routes, maybe more off the beaten track-did a 75 mile loop near yellowstone, climbing 10 peaks and a lot of bumps in 2 days, best trip ever. Not a move over 5.5.
Like Donini, i don't work too much, bless my wife and her ambitious career focus-we need to make the most of these times.
So, off for a long hike with a big pack, training while walking the dog!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I'll be 60 next fall. I am planning to celebrate, I see it as a real landmark (as in "older than I ever thought I'd get.")
After decades of living in a strange balance of caution and recklessnes I hit a big bump in the road at 53 and for a while it was touch and go, one day at a time. For the next few years I was pretty limited as far as climbing but I was able to immerse myself in other activities and therapies including Pilates, Yoga, and lots of walking with short sprints. Today the whole thing is behind me with a few lingering effects.
So I've been getting out climbing a lot. I get a lot of satisfaction out of climbing in good style, and moving well, so I choose my routes carefully. Right now I am at a point where my climbing level is far below what it was in the past, but I am improving, as is my fitness in general.
When I got sick in '07 I was totally blindsided. One minute I felt young and strong, the next minute I was laying in the dirt having a convulsive seizure. Thus began my adventure in advanced medical care. In a sense I had a mentor in this process: my old El Cap partner (and a lot of other grand aventures as well) Rob Brown. Rob had fought back from stage 4 Lymphoma a few years before. I had watched with amazement as he handled the entire process of chemo, radiation, surgeries and the uncertainty of it all with a kind of serene grace. I took this as a lesson when the wheels came off my bus.
Another great person from whom we can all learn some real life lessons is SoCal local and Yosemite master Clark Jacobs.
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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Charlie D
The old country was Czech Republic. Left when I was 20, went on a month long climbing trip to Dolomites in 1968, things happened back home, we never returned.
Idyllwild has been full time home for 12 years now, Tahquitz is still a quiet place Monday to Friday, wonderful place, climbed on it since the 70s.
My better half and I are just getting our feet into boots, going up North Gully, there is a bit of ice there, enough for a little fun. Thanks for the good wishes...
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Getting older is no picnic. I'm turning 65 in April and I find it hard to believe. I don't know what I'm supposed to feel like, but I don't feel too much different than I did when I was thirty... and yet here I am. The most difficult thing about aging is watching friends and family die... I hate it... so much sadness. Still,the beauty of nature remains compelling, adventures remain, the mystery of our existence still fascinates, I can't imagine not wanting passionatly to be here and participate, at whatever age, in this remarkable life.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Micronut -
Yes, I am the older climber in that video. It was so great to have all of our friends work hard to film that and share the experience. Andrew is a great climbing partner and we really pushed each other hard. I have been lucky to have had some great partners thru the years and this has allowed me to get to a level I might not have reached alone. A big thanks to them: Mike Waugh, Dave Hauser, Rich Grigsby, Kris Solom, and Andrew Rock!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jack LaLanne, in his early 90's, was once asked during an interview if he and his wife still made love to which he replied, "almost, every day."
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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1. Don't smoke
2. Drink in moderation
3. Keep to an exercise schedule - always (but give yourself lots of rest days, avoid really hard stuff for two or more days in a row)
4. Avoid highball bouldering
5. Stay off the still rings (ruined my shoulders - I cringe when I see Crossfit athletes, including young women, doing dips on them)
6. Always have some physical project, even if it is doing one more pull-up
7. Well, let's see . . . I forget what comes next
;>)
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Good list. I know what you forgot: KEEP YOUR SENSE OF HUMOR! Which you apparently have.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Any advice on training for 1 arm pull ups? I fell like it is structurally impossible for me, but I'm not giving up yet... it is my physical project.
Even when I was climbing my hardest (13/v10) I couldn't even lock myself off for more than 3 seconds before dropping like a rock.
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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I think technically it's not allowed, but if I grab my right forearm with my left hand I can do them (i.e. one arm pull ups).
When I was in high school I could do three consecutive "struggle-ups" (similar to a muscle up, but most folks would say easier). I can not do one now. I have no idea when it left me.
Go figure. Oh yeah I'm 66.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mechrist, I think I know as much as anyone about training for one-arm pullups. I got up to seven on each arm at my best, and could do a few on each arm for thirty years, and perhaps better than that was climbing a rope-climbing rope one arm at a time, sagging down to a full hang at each regrasp.
I stopped doing all that twenty years ago when I was about fifty, because at that point those exercises seemed to be tearing me apart more than they were building me up. How long you can keep that kind of high-intensity exercise going depends ultimately on the genetic hand you were dealt and what you did with it, including the injuries you incurred along the way. In my case, as the frequency of minor traumas built up, I concluded it was only a matter of time before a major trauma really set me back, and so I permanently cut back on the intensity in the hope, so far realized, of better longevity.
So if you are serious about this, here is the program. I've moved the description to its own thread at http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2083977/One-arm-pullup-program , on the off chance that the non-geezerly segment of the audience might find it of interest.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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I learned to do one-arms way back when simply by hanging a bicycle innertube off the pullup bar. When you do pullups you grap the bar with one hand and grab the tubing as high as possible with the other hand and do pullups like that for awhile. Gradually you move the hand down that holds the tubing. As the one hand gets lower, you can even use it to push down on the tubing. As the hand gets lower through training though, you can't get the push down on the tubing, and that benefit goes away, but the hand going lower means you are getting stronger. Eventually you just grab the tubing for psychological support and don't really need it. I once could do 3 quality one-arms on my left arm, and 2 on the right without doing an obsessive amount of training. It's mostly about doing the 'specific' training that makes it possible. I started from a base of being able to easily do 20 to 30 quality chinups however. The one-arm pull ends up being a neutral hand position on the bar - between the chin-up and pull-up postion.
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fosburg
climber
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jogill advice= gold; wow!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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That EKat is still my hero. She's one tough old broad.
YIKES! ;-D (hehehe)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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At 60.....
Never let a hard on go unintended, even when alone, it may be your last.
Never pass a bathroom without using it.
Never trust a fart.
Enjoy!!!
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Chazbro
Social climber
Gillette, Wyoming
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Coming up on 50 years of climbing this summer. I still can't keep up with my brother Jaybro, but I'm climbing better now than the last few decades. Something to do with a fabulous new climbing structure that looks like Devils Tower! It's as much fun as ever. I climbed with Paul Stettner when I was in High School. He was about the age I am now at 62 and he was having a blast then., like I am now. I climbed the other weekend with my son and 7 year old grandson. A great time was had by all....
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Thanks rgold. That is by far the longest post I have ever read on soopertopo! I'll add that into my max recruit training in a couple weeks and set my goal of doing 1 arms by the time I'm 40.
Climbing is easy when you are young. Respect for the old goats still pulling down.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I met Paul Stettner when he went up to do the 50th annual ascent of Stettner's Ledges. Cool guy (got stormed off though, a terrible season).
I'm not as bad as donini. I still trust my farts (but usually carry spare clothing).
But isn't that why he's doing the Nose In A Diaper?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Nose in a diaper! Ha.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Boy, you got that right, eKat. I was just looking for a book and came across
a rope diary stuck away. It said I did 5 routes at Williamson Rock, 20 years
ago, mind you, with a guy I have absolutely no recollection of! Ouch!
None, nada, zilch! Did I just pick him up along the way a la Desert Frank?
WTF?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Man, it is scary! I wrote down his full name, mind you.
Never heard of the dood. Funny thing is I can remember individual chess
games from that same period. Oh well, Williamson sport routes never made
a great impression on me, except for the one where I came even with a big
hole 10' the right and there was a momma Great Horned Owl sitting in her
living room and giving me the stinkeye big time! I explained that I was
just passing by and that my brother would be along in a minute. I remember
that quite vividly! Of course I'd left my camera in the pack at the base.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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53 and there is definitely a sense of urgency settling in. This is actually a good thing because it's forcing me off my dead complacent ass. 60+ days out on the boards this winter and then its time to get something else- anything else BUT I am going to get it--What's the alternative?
Time--it's fukcing breathing down my neck
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Bad Climber
climber
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I turn 51 in a couple of days; my wife turned 60 this year. From Aug. to Nov. we pedaled the length of the Rocky Mtns. from Jasper to the Mexican border--tough trip, especially on recumbent trikes with our 57 lb. dog Django with us. He hiked all the hills, including one very long walk from Frisco all the way to the top of Fremont Pass. What a day. We're back into climbing a lot now, but I don't think I'll ever be a super star. Seems that even in my 20's I'd manage to injure myself when I pushed too hard, not the world's best connective tissue. Still, easy/moderate 10's seem doable, and I've set up a home gym--weights, etc. for strength training, which seems to help. Also, over the last few weeks, took up slacklining. Freaky hard, but I'm slowly getting it and can almost walk the 30 ft. from tree to tree in my back yard. I fall like crazy, but, like climbing, when you find the zone, so nice! I recommend it for all climbers. It's the first new, truly difficult thing I've tried since my youth, and it's teaching me all over again about being a beginner--a good lesson. I hope to climb for a long time still to come. It's all about fun, connecting with nature and friends, being part of something greater and grander than yourself. This, of course, was the draw when I was 15 and first decided I would become a climber.
Check yer knots!
BAd
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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My wife and I (she's 48, I'm 63) stay motivated by targeting the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell every year. Knowing we will compete gives us the motivation to keep our weight at a reasonable level and keep our cardio going year round. I do 20-30 minutes of hangboard twice a week and cardio 3-4 times a week in addition to outside climbing two or three times a week most of the year. As summer approaches we up our intensity and frequency of workouts. This natural flow of the year gives our bodies a natural winter break to recover and then a long period of correct eating and workouts building up to the fall. I also do a birthday challenge every year to stay motivated (63 pitches of 5.10 last year). Knock wood but I currently have no tendinitis but I am very careful not to overdo on the intensity.
Here is a TR I put up here recently with a cute film done about this old geezer and the 24 hour climbing competition.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Partial-TR-about-the-24-hours-of-horseshoe-hell-more-about-an-old-mans-journey/t11826n.html
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Here's an exercise I came up with while working on a program for my mother in the 80s. You just need a rocking chair and the wheel aparatus. To make it harder, add ankle weights!
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Proud to say that the ladies of my age division (55 - 59)BURNED the ladies in the next younger division (50 - 54) at the local 15K running race. 60 is looking good today.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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John Gill is awesome in his work out advice. Thank you John and for all your participation here. Cheers, Lynne Leichtfuss
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Have climbed with quite a few of the 60 plus crowd the last couple of years a few of them are climbing harder than I ever have. Got twenty years to catch up.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I had some bad loughing fits last week but am almost entirely recovered.
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DonC
climber
CA
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i turned 60 last summer and did a 14 day solo hike of the John Muir Trail to celebrate.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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a young 50.. this weeks adventure
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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@56c I'm in about as good shape as ever and certainly as active as ever; half trail marathon, back to back 20 mile bike rides and multiple 5.12 offwidths since Friday. I thi k, if the stars align, it's just a number
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Got my NPS Geezer Card this weekend, so I guess it's official now.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Turned fifty-nine last Wednesday. Bad knees make it hard to continue to climb, but I did climb 5.9 off the couch last week
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LB4USC
Trad climber
Long Beach
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"How old would you be, if you didn't know how old you are?" -- Satchel Paige
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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10b, I turned 48 last week and have had two knee surgerys it's the approaches that get me not the climbing.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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wayne w, keep on fighting!
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
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Still something left in the tank at 59.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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In addition to staying fit, you also have to avoid getting serious debilitating injuries when you're young.
There is a fine line between bravery and foolishness. In a sport like climbing, one error in judgement can ruin your climbing career forever.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Don't doubt it for a second, Dane.
If you have the appetite, Mother Nature will furnish all you can eat, warm or frozen. The very best part about being a climber is the abundance of lines to dream about experiencing.
So toss a runner on the Horn of Plenty and race the wind...upwards! LOL
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craig mo
Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
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Bob Kamps set a good example.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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John Gill...
SO many lines...
:)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there all, say... just a fast reminder...
take extra care in 'eye'ing things' depth perception, etc changes...
small hazes can be there that you are unaware of and even reaching for
things, you can be 'just a tad' off... can make a LOT of difference whether
something is DROPPED OR BUMPED, and can actually turn things dangerous
when you are just 'causualy' doing not much, or, doing something serious...
same, as to the ears and balance... (ear hair thing)...
so, take a few extra SECONDS and just slow the pace... (a few seconds may seem like a longgggggggggg stall, as the brain registers this longer, than it did when we were young)... but, a few seconds, for keeping better balance,
by staying settled... or a few seconds to make sure we touch only what we
reached for, etc...
can mean a lot...
this is TRAINING that regualar excersise of 'keeping in shape' can
not do...
just a friendly reminder.... it starts happening slowly after 35...
and you may not notice it at first... but, suddenly near 60
you may wonder what is going on, :O...
slowing a few secs does wonders...
*house wives notice this a lot as:
we deal with dishes, glasses, going around corners, dishing out hot food,
etc...
keep up on your eyes, too, if you need to get them checked due to
far-sighted, or whatever...
i have to do this, in the kind of near future... and so do a few of my
friends...
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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just a friendly reminder.... it starts happening slowly after 35...
and you may not notice it at first... but, suddenly near 60
you may wonder what is going on, :O...
slowing a few secs does wonders...
Good comments.
That's one of the reasons I quit free-soloing (and climbing) in my early 70s. If there is one thing fundamental to climbing it is a good sense of balance while in an environment that may confuse the senses.
;>|
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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In geologic time....we are all the same age.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Too mystic for this crowd.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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El Cap is the real fossil.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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In geologic time even Beckey is barely a zygote!
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 12:56am PT
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When I started this thread I was actually looking for an excuse...because I am slowing down. But after reading all the posts here leaving out the obvious physical abnormalities like Gill and Donini still a whole bunch of you ripping it up.
This Taco stand aint got no old weenies :)
Thanks for the gas!
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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I liked "The Push" better.
The Push is from those that love you. They don't have to know you.
They Will push. They Must. And You must. It's why we Are.
Yeehaw. Huh?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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No country for old weenies.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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It saddens me to see people quit doing what they've always loved:
climbing, skiing, paragliding whatever ...
N.E.V.E.R. G.I.V.E. U.P.
You guys are an inspiration to me. I'm 50, and I feel because others around me keep climbing good and well into their 70s and 80s then I can too. You guys give me motivation. Thank you.
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Exactly, sir.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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The mention of balance is a good point. The sense is typically lost with age. I always did various balancing things, so figured I was immune. Well, yes and no. I was shocked to discover that with my eyes closed, I've pretty much lost the ability to balance on one foot for more than a few seconds. My daughter, at 26, can balance on one foot with her eyes closed until she gets bored, and she never does anything balancy.
My balance is still excellent with my eyes open as long as I can focus on something, but it is dependent on vision now in a way I'm certain it was not when I was younger.
I discovered all this while rehabbing my reconstructed acl, since various balance exercises are part of recovering lost proprioception.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Solution to balance problems:
Walk a slack chain between short poles in the ground in the backward until you can do it time and time again. Problem solved.
Leave it up permanently for inspiration and training.
Great for climbing, skiing, life.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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That's interesting. I tried it and it's hard enough with eyes open - I feel like I'm on a slackline! When I close my eyes it goes to hell fast. I got a slackline for Xmas - better get it set up and I better get back on my unicyle - it's been almost 3 years. It sure is easy to let mother nature in to gobble us up! It's kind of easy to imagine the final ultimate surrender! Take me!
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Bad Climber
climber
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Funny you should mention slacklining. I just recently started to learn this, and it's freakin' hard! I'm slowly getting it, but I've no comparison to doing it at a younger age. I can stand pretty well on either leg, and when I'm doing well, I can traverse about 20 feet or so but have yet to walk the full 30 ft of line I have set between the trees in my backyard. I fall off A LOT, in fact mostly, and when I start each session, it's almost like starting from scratch--but not quite. I have a 21 yr old friend who's a damn wizard on the thing, but I think that's more than his youth, although it probably doesn't hurt. He's a super athlete, one of the more gifted souls I've had the pleasure to meet. So at, now, 51, I've started this totally new thing, and I'm a true bumbly at it. But, like climbing, it's a wonderful challenge, and I know it's good for my climbing and life energy generally, and I WILL walk that line! Grrrrr.... My fantasy is to be in 20 years that old Zen master type, a grizzled Donini walking the line, climbing the stone.
Cheerz and beerz,
BAd
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Did many of you see Todd Gordon's photos on FB of climbing with Vedauwoo Hardman emeritus Rob Kelman, 82? A young 82 it seems to me. I know some of you saw it, maybe he will grace this site with it!
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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As Jack said in BrassNuts' movie "Gray Hairs and Gravity", "The best thing about growing old is your memory starts to fade, and everything becomes a first ascent again!"
Isn't 60 the new 50 or even 40??? :-)
pam (a youngster at not quite 53...)
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Rob Kelman 82 years young...
Rob Kelman on Poon (5.10a)
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Quote Here Bad Climber - it may be easier to learn slacklining on something like a heavy chain or rope - something with less stretch and bounce. It may even be worth standing a long thin board on it's side to get the hang of it. Just get some of the balance elements down first.
40 years ago I learned to do it on a circus tight-wire. I was driving around Frisco one day down by the wharfs and an old guy had his circus routine set up - I did not leave till I had the wire walk down - seems like it was about 20 feet long and about 6 feet off the ground. Those wires are really tight though.
What Rgold said about eyes closed could have some value in practice. It's hard enough to stand on one foot with eyes closed that I think walking along a fat board with eyes closed could be very helpful and then progress to standing on one foot on a board with eyes closed and then put the other foot down and change feet and progress down the board like that - with eyes closed. I have played on climbing walls blind-folded in the past - it's all pretty fun and interesting.
I got to thinking about the board and remembered that exercise was in the scout manuals so I looked it up and found this;
http://meritbadge.org/wiki/index.php/Wolf_Cub_Scout
Look at feats of skill 1a)
Also on the page:
“ “A boy is not a sitting-down animal.” ”
— Robert Baden-Powell
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Solution to balance problems: Walk a slack chain between short poles in the ground in the backward until you can do it time and time again. Problem solved
If only that were so. I used to be able to walk a slack chain easily, many years before slacklining appeared, but now it is very hard, discouraging. I wonder, where did that balance go? I'm not sure that if I had kept at it religiously I would have the skill now. As Rich said, as you grow older balance seems to become more a visual thing, and that makes it a little iffy if you are climbing on wild terrain that can disorient, unlike the experience when younger.
Something for old climbers to keep in mind.
;>(
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Although I am sure we lose things as we get older, I also think that when we are young we are willing to take on challenges to learn new things and to 'prove' ourselves. Being older and having done these things, it's more difficult to care if you've been there and done that. These things like slack-lining have become so popular, people want to be able to do them without putting in the effort, and most of the time we forget just how much effort we put into learning skills many years ago. Slack-lining is not that easy - that's why it such a show-off thing to do.
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Hell we went climbing with phil B. and he onsighted a mean .10b with an offwidth start that spit me out at 64 id say thats impressive & gives me hope for the rest of life lol.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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On the balance thing while vision is a component I think a bigger cause of deterioration is the
ageing effects on the inner ear. Those little 'hairs' in there get stiff and don't 'go with flow' like
they once did and give confusing or faulty data to the flight director which leads to departure
from straight and level flight.
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
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Agree with Reilly on that one. The inner ear changes with age and not for the better. But you can train anything in the body to perform better.
Swimming is really rough on inner ear issues. But I suspect it is good taraining if you cna get through it without getting vertigo. Ear plugs do it for me. Riding a bike, any bike. Skiing. Trail and talus running are all really ways to get much of that balance up to par or better it.
It is easy to forget how much time we use to spend at these pursuits even if climbing was the major goal. Balance boards and balance exercises are all well worth the effort and time spent. Chains and slack lining? Gotta be able to walk before you can run.
Balance is one of the things I am sure is a "use it or loose it skill".
And it can take some work...and working through the fear of failure to get what you do have back.
Funny what I find interesting these days and a little frightening. Playing on vertical ground I seem to have forgotten just how decisive a mistep will be. Partly the reason I started the question. It all seems so natural to be clipped in or standing on vertical terrian. When I know it just isn't so. And while it is our chosen play ground, falling down there is a lot less forgiving. And likely result more than a scraped knee.
I seem to have found myself too comfortable there, unroped and seemingly secure. Anyone with half a brain knows that if Bachar and Roberts can take a dirt dive so can anyone of us, "youngsters".
It seems to pay, to pay attention :)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 10, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
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A few months back I went to the Valley and old-farted around between Werner's place and the Lower Falls, breaking in brand new approach shoes. These were new to me, so as I made my way up the Sunnyside Bench gully (having finally found the thing after so long away was no mean feat for my memory, as well) I found that my joints were responding about as I had hoped. They did the job like unfairly-paid porters with an attitude, but they did their job. It's when I got to the ledges leading out to the open that I was REALLY CAREFUL with these new high-tech shoes. They needed to be heeded and my head responded well. Learning new balance points is awesome!
As I became accustomed to the slopes that I could handle safely unroped, I realized the edging was not there but their frictioning ablility, my God! Too much for me, who has never owned "sticky." It wasn't long before I was able to challenge the next level of the Bench, which was thrilling after having been away from the vertical plane for a long time. And especially after having had congestive heart failure. And having to take meds. And going to a greater altitude in a few hours (a big deal at this age). I down-climbed to the first ledge to soak in some rays and medicate.
You really need to take it slowly re-introducing yourself to technique or learning new ones when you are at death's door, I mean at an age where you get more crap from AARP than you have age spots.
Or
You sing along with the elevator music.
Or
Every time you suck in your gut, your ankles swell.
Or
If you've never smoked, you can start now and it won't have time to hurt you.
Or
People no longer view you as a hypochondriac.
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stilltrying
Trad climber
washington indiana
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Mar 10, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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I will be 61 in a few days. This picture was taken at Seneca this past October. Two young climbing friends helped me get to the summit. Having big heart issues for nearly 20 years now and living with a pacemaker/defbrillator for the past 6 years it has been difficult to stay with it. Still I have accomplished a few things and most of all I still get to be around all the wonderful young folks both in climbing and cycling. I admire guys like Donini and once I even got to meet John Gill, he is a very nice guy. I intend to keep riding and climbing when I can and it definitely is better than sitting on the couch. I just tell myself healthy people have to go all the way to Everest to get this kind of exhaustion - so I am lucky :0)
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Mar 10, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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Way to stick with it, stilltrying
EDIT: And the rest of you crazy ole dudes too!
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
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There is some real inspriration, thanks StillTrying!!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 10, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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On the balance thing while vision is a component I think a bigger cause of deterioration is the ageing effects on the inner ear. Those little 'hairs' in there get stiff and don't 'go with flow' like
they once did and give confusing or faulty data to the flight director which leads to departure from straight and level flight.
I didn't say that vision is a "component" of balance loss. In fact, I basically asserted the opposite, which is that I've found I now need visual cues to compensate for balance loss. If indeed the cilia become less responsive with age, then that would actually explain why visual cues would be more important and why balancing with eyes closed, which relies exclusively on inner-ear data, becomes harder.
I do think that balance training is a good idea, but slacklining is surely an advanced specialty, and there is much a person can do that will be helpful that is not nearly as difficult to master as slacklining and does not entail the hazards of falling from a slackline either.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Mar 10, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
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Rob Kelman is a well-known mathematician who was at CSU in Colorado when I was there over 40 years ago. We didn't meet at the time, but later talked a bit via e-mail. Here's a piece I posted on Rob a few years ago:
Rob Kelman
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stilltrying
Trad climber
washington indiana
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Mar 10, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
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Great overview of Mr. Kelman.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Mar 10, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
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According to Mr Kelman in the 2007 interview;
I can still do chinups with, say, about 75 lb. on my back when I train for it in the winter.
That impressive. In keeping with other themes in this thread I did my buildering workout with my eyes closed for the first time today - inspired by this thread. I just did one pass on my 120' brick wall just to warm my calves up for running. Everything on the wall is symetrical and predictable so it's not a big deal but it was fun.
Keep on trying Stilltrying! I turn 61 in 2 months!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Mar 10, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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My Answer:
At 64, climb all year, on real rock, with a focused belayer. No surrogates--no plastic, no weights, no boulders or crossfit voodoo training . A good rope and protection beginning low. The reason: minimize joint repetition/loading so as to spend your joint life doing what you want (climbing), not training (elsewise) for what you hope to achieve.
Some of my projects do get completed:
see the winters work:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/area-5-red-and-white-grotto-walls/107493721
What do I eat? Fish Oil
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 10, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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By capsules or spoonsfull?
And cheers to Stilltrying!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Mar 10, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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Jaybro,
drink it; the emulsified.
A geology sediment deposition question/speculation for the geologist.
consult: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/108033452
Just before deposition of the red ortho quartzite the Madison limestone was a well developed Karst surface. Can you see how the red quatzite fills the gully in the limestone?
The red rock in front of the Madison is a very different quartzite than that above the Madison. Perhaps older than the Madison? Take note of how smooth it flows eastward. Is this from the present North Platte River meandering into it or was it smoothed from a long time ago?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 12, 2013 - 11:18am PT
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I'd say both. Asssuming superposition, the quartzite, (limestone at the time? ) filled in erosional gaps in the the karst, then 'present' day weathering gave it the look it has now.
Kind of a Mears kind of question....
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 12, 2013 - 11:26am PT
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Dingus Mcgee and Jaybro......
You both have it sort of correct....
I was around, BITD, when that formation was forming. :>)
It was a volcanic mud flow that destroyed one of the best and only Limestone climbing spots in Nebraska.
The access fund worked very hard to try and stem the flow but in the end they failed to do so.
But now that plate tectonics have relocated it to Wyoming, hopefully it will become a fine climbing place.
..... have a nice day.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 12, 2013 - 11:29am PT
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's good to be able to go the source, for eye witness accounts of this sort of stuff!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 22, 2016 - 03:25pm PT
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Doesn't it depend on the 60 yr old?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 22, 2016 - 04:34pm PT
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I'm 64 now and still leading relatively decent on trad .10s even if on body memory and only so long as I don't have to be on any one hold longer than about a second or two. It would help if I could get out more than once every month or six weeks.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Sep 22, 2016 - 05:10pm PT
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I'm 70, and heading for Yosemite in the morning.
I will be happy if I can even get up the climbs I did 5 years ago, with the older Donini.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 22, 2016 - 05:25pm PT
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We're like twin brothers from different mothers, Tad and I. I turn 60 in Dec. too. I haven't been climbing nearly as long as most of you, but I feel my biggest deal is I have to believe my body can do what I'm asking of it. And for me that comes with practice; 3 times a week min is best. But I can't always pull that off. Striking the balance between family and being outdoors as well as convincing my wife I will be safe climbing with others can be tough. Lucky for me, she enjoys climbing too.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Sep 22, 2016 - 05:43pm PT
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As I understand it, we 60-year-olds represent the height of the baby boom with respect to number of births in the U.S. in a year. For that matter, there were more births in the U.S. that year that at any other time in history.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 22, 2016 - 05:53pm PT
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Strangely enough, climbing has been my salvation. I plan to keep it up as long as I can.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Sep 22, 2016 - 05:57pm PT
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Both Medicare eligible
Susan
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Sep 22, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
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I always keep it up as long as I can!!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 22, 2016 - 10:22pm PT
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This thread has gone on long enough that I'm about to hit a different 60-year anniversary: this coming July (assuming I make it that far), I will have been climbing for 60 years.
Further assuming that what remains of the body (suitably buttressed by hiking poles, knee braces, and ibuprofen) is willing to cooperate, I might have a bit of a climbing celebration in the Tetons, where it all began for me in 1957.
One thing I won't be replicating is SteveA's septuagenarian 10 hour car-to-car Exum frolic. No way my knees would put up with that gambit, but a much more leisurely ascent of a harder route might be possible...
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Sep 23, 2016 - 06:54am PT
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I'm glad someone resurrected this thread because I now qualify to post. I turned 60 in January and still managed to do two 5.12 routes in the last year--along with a ton of easier stuff. I know that's no huge feat for someone at age 60, but I feel pretty good about that because I never climbed much harder than 5.12 at any age. Onward and upward :-)
Curt
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whoops
climber
paradise, ca
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Sep 23, 2016 - 07:05pm PT
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I'm 67, and my buddy John is 72. We are going up to the Emeralds tomorrow to bolt a new climb, should go in the mid 5.11 range. I'm going to enjoy the rock, the work, my friends, the dogs and the other climbers that might be there. People can go to the mall if they want. The mountains are my place and the people in them are my tribe. How many people in the world really get to do what they love? Better yet, how many people in the world really have a passion? I'd b willing to bet it's a damn small number.
"I like people who are learning, listening, engaging, doing new things. Having fun. Look at Vin Scully - he's what, 139? But he has a blast at the ballpark like a 10-year-old. I like hanging out with young people - whatever age they may claim."
Good stuff there!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Sep 24, 2016 - 06:40am PT
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Inspirational stories!
Sorry, Curt, but I gotta give you a little grief for this "humble-brag":
I turned 60 in January and still managed to do two 5.12 routes in the last year--along with a ton of easier stuff. I know that's no huge feat for someone at age 60,
Seriously, dude? You know for a fact you're way strong and climbing extremely well--for just about any age. At 60, you're in something like the top .001% of the US population for fitness.
I wish I could climb so well. I don't have the world's greatest connective tissue and since my early 20's have battled with pulls, tears, and strains. I pretty much topped out at low 11's. I turn 55 in March '17 and will take early retirement and move full time to Bishop. My goal is just to keep climbing, hiking, biking--regardless of grade.
I hope we can meet up sometime. I always appreciate a good geezer rope gun!
BAd
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Sep 24, 2016 - 07:08am PT
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Climbing 5.12 at 60 is nothing special. I'm in the middle of the 50s and already climbing 5.11. Many years to go... At 80 5.13 will be no dream...
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Sep 24, 2016 - 06:26pm PT
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60 is working good for me.
Much more experience now than when I started at age 15
Just keep on climbing and having fun, including my first time up Devils Tower last week
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 24, 2016 - 06:29pm PT
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Cool! What route? Did you meet the Colonel?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Sep 24, 2016 - 08:19pm PT
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Heh, Marlow. Been a HUGE line of sexagenarians lining up under Separate Reality. Tell them oldsters to move over so the kids can have a shot! Oh, guess that's only 11d these days. I guess my point is that MOST climbers haven't/don't/won't climb 5.12, so the number of those in their 60's climbing at that standard is going to be small indeed. If Curt's sending 12's, he's doing freakin' awesome! Most of the fifty-year-olds I know have a tough time climbing stairs, if you get my drift.
BAd
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Sep 25, 2016 - 07:10am PT
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I too am a recipient of the Golden Turkey award. Some observations:
I climb as well as ever (on a toprope).
I'm more willing to "share" the lead.
I have gotten very good at switching to French Free mode.
I don't like to climb 2 days in a row. And after a hard day, 2 days is no longer enough to recover.
When I come to Yosemite, I find myself repeating my favorite climbs rather than doing something new.
I wear socks under my loose fitting shoes.
I find bifocals suck for footwork, both climbing and descending.
I wear a pair of single vision glasses that focus on my feet, and don't worry so much about the details of the scenery.
I prefer climbs where there is something to hold for balance, however small.
I don't sleep well in bivis or in a tent, preferring one day adventures.
I find myself taping for crack climbing.
I never take leader falls.
And I love a day of climbing as much as ever.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Sep 25, 2016 - 07:50am PT
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"Cool! What route? Did you meet the Colonel?"
Jay, yes I got to meet the Colonel and check out his place.
I was passing through and short on time. I got to help out with some Guide Cert's and go up the historic Durrance Route. Got to check off another one of the 50 most crowded Classic's of North America.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Sep 25, 2016 - 03:38pm PT
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Jordi Pons was gonna do this route in 1952 but he got rained out. 64 years later he finally got around to climbing it. He had fun, too, or so he says. "Está bello, eh?"
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 25, 2016 - 06:01pm PT
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Nice, F10!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Sep 26, 2016 - 06:23am PT
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Nice, Yangui. Impressive. Hope I'm so fit at 83.
BAd
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Sep 26, 2016 - 12:03pm PT
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Wow, Tim! This guy is three years older than me and I can't imagine doing what he did. Accolades never-ending, pal!
;>)
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Sep 26, 2016 - 12:50pm PT
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yanqui.
Great video. Impressive climb by Jordi Pons... My compliments...
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Sep 26, 2016 - 09:22pm PT
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No longer climb due to injuries. Does it matter? Or is the relevant question: what did it mean all the way, irrespective of age, highest grade, legacy of first ascents, and whether still doing or not?
I’ve turned to cycling. Does it matter? First in my age class for some route, some climb. The question returns: what does it mean to me along the way irrespective of grade and age and who did what on the same climb?
I travel: Nepal, Patagonia, Japan, Iceland … The relevant question: what does it mean to me irrespective of countries visited, miles driven, sights seen, the tales we tell to friends on the return.
Climbing as all else is irrelevant unless it rings inside, down deep, for good. And in silent times.
Slaves once were told by wise ones of the day to stand in chariots behind winning warriors returning to Rome after another resounding crush of the enemy: “all victory is fleeting.“ I would add: unless our victory, ours alone.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sep 26, 2016 - 10:09pm PT
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Age is just a number. Shut up and climb.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Feb 22, 2019 - 11:16pm PT
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I am 66 now, but while still 65 I climbed the U Wall with Jon Riggs and Chris Trull, and the Aid route on the Sherriff's Badge, both on the Chief. Luke Cormier, Kieran Brownie and I did the first one day ascent of the Aid route on the Badge. Some serious aid, a lot of fun climbing, and we avoided cutting loose any of the time bombs.
I also did Zodiac in 17 1/2 hours in Sept, tying Tom Frost and Eric Pearlman for oldest ECIAD that I am aware of, anyone? Then in November, Paul Gagner and Chris Van Luevan joined me for a push of Zodiac, making it my 11th month having climbed the big stone. I have lots of plans for 2019. When the storms fade my training will pay off and I will be up there laughing with great friends on these amazing formations feeling incredibly blessed like it is the first time all over again.
This is a Tom Evans Shot from a 2016 17:30 ascent of the Shortest Straw. Brandon Adams leading, Kristoffer Wickstrom at the belay and me coming up in a less than graceful manner. Libby Sauter over on Zodiac.
This photo is from our Nov ascent. It was smoky.
This is another Tom Evans shot of Brandon Adams leading, Roger Putnam cleaning, and myself getting close to the end of the pitch. From our Sept '18 ZIAD. From the Badge last July, Kieran Brownie; photo.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 23, 2019 - 07:54am PT
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Fully amazing!! Wuph-woof, >BIG oLe` #1 Dog Bark
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 23, 2019 - 08:06am PT
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Remember when 60, was, “old”?
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capseeboy
Social climber
portland, oregon
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Feb 23, 2019 - 08:13am PT
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Push yourself till you can't. Genetics man. 63 arthritic knees shut down. Ha ha. More lives than a cat. Did it. No complaints. Bucket list already finished. Save yourself for what? Do it while you can Bro.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 23, 2019 - 08:38am PT
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Did a 40th-anniversary rope solo of the Bastille Crack at 63 - it was my first rope solo back in '75.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 23, 2019 - 09:09am PT
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At 60 you are ready to reap the awards of a life well lived or sit back in your armchair of complacency. At 60 your path has likely been determined until the end.
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capseeboy
Social climber
portland, oregon
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Feb 23, 2019 - 10:49am PT
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At 60 your path has likely been determined until the end.
I think that it is by age 3, but I might be wrong.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 23, 2019 - 10:54am PT
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At 60 your path has likely been determined until the end.
Uh, that is Werner’s department.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 23, 2019 - 11:36am PT
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Well, now I'm 75. Retired from a 50+ year teaching career (with a 140 mile daily commute) eight months ago, so now have more time for exercise (and thought). An ankle injury from trail running benched me for the summer, but regular gym workouts kept my upper body presentable, and rowing machine workouts (which I absolutely hate) kept a semblance of aerobic capacity alive. I'm back to work now in the climbing gym, hoping for a decent Spring in the Gunks.
I don't have any big climbing projects, but I love climbing (at whatever level I can) as much as ever, and hope to piddle about as long as the body and mind cooperate
(EDIT: I may have inadvertently exaggerated my commute, as the 140 mile figure is the round-trip number; 70 miles each way; about three hours out of my day total.)
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 23, 2019 - 12:08pm PT
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Get Busy Living or Get Busy Dying
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Feb 23, 2019 - 12:31pm PT
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Hey, Rgold, that's an amazing haul--teaching and commuting. I managed about 27 years before I threw in the towel and was able to retire early on a modest income. I first posted on this thread six damn years ago. Gonna be 57 in a couple of weeks, so closing in on the magic number. Right now I'm dealing with one of my worst finger injuries ever--sigh.... Hiked today with a full pack, gonna do yoga and some other workout stuff later. Another pack hike tomorrow. Don't know when I'll get back on the rock, but I'm game for some alpinism this summer--nothing gnar but I hope to get up a few things in the Sierras, especially the Mendel Couloir. I haven't swung an ax in ages!
Climb on.
BAd
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Feb 23, 2019 - 12:57pm PT
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Sixty is the youth of old age. Enjoy.
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Feb 23, 2019 - 01:36pm PT
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Anyone planning (or done) a 60+ birthday challenge?
This year I turn 59. Before I turn 60 I hope to complete a weekend birthday challenge / oldman triathlon.
Saturday - Mountain bike 100 miles of single track.
Sunday - Swim 8000 meters (5 miles).
Sunday - Walk half marathon (13.1 miles).
The ideal time is June. I'll post up if I step up.
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ExfifteenExfifteen
climber
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Feb 23, 2019 - 02:04pm PT
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Hell at 60 you can still party AND climb......pretty soon you'll have to choose one or the other.
Finally, an easy first world choice...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 23, 2019 - 02:06pm PT
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That's a lot of swimming. Would take me somewhere just over 2.5 hours depending on how much I slowed down over time. Probably 2.75 if I just leveled it out from the beginning.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 23, 2019 - 02:22pm PT
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Hell, I was 60 twenty six years ago. It took a heart bypass when I was 83 to slow me down, but slow me down it did. Now I just ride an indoor bike and sit in front of this damn computer. I really miss climbing.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Feb 23, 2019 - 02:59pm PT
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youth is always wasted on the young..
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Feb 23, 2019 - 03:52pm PT
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Ref: Lauria
I was 60 twenty two years ago, and in retrospect that was damned youthful! Can't imagine doing those things now.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Feb 23, 2019 - 04:43pm PT
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Due to my arthritic knees 4 pitches is a good day at age 61.
I still enjoy it.
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Roadstead
Sport climber
Spokane, Wash.
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Feb 23, 2019 - 05:05pm PT
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I will turn 62 in April. Was diagnosed with leukemia in July and I just finished up 7 months of chemotherapy. After climbing for 45 years, just climbing out of bed feels like a good day.
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 23, 2019 - 06:25pm PT
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By the time I hit my mid 30s I had pretty much quit climbing. I was tired of being terrified and windsurfing had lured me away. That was the mid 80s. I’ve been windsurfing on the San Francisco Bay as much as possible to this day. Now at 68, I was coerced by a friend to join the local climbing gym... reluctantly. I must say after a few months I’m starting to enjoy it. I have no desire to go back to the world of rock fall and runouts, but my upper body strength has really improved and I am able to do things I never imagined I would be able to do at this age. Even with climbing and wind surfing, or because of it, I still walk like Fred Sanford when I get up off the couch!
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Feb 23, 2019 - 07:34pm PT
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Turning 60 in less than a month, and it's definitely inspiring some serious introspection - it's also going to inspire the consumption of some very serious wine... Climbed ice last weekend, headed to Moab in a month for a week of mtn. biking, and to the City for climbing in June. Got one knee replaced and imagine the other one will have to be replaced one of these days. Life could be worse... Just heard Frank Sinatra sing "I'm gonna live til I die". Sounds like a good plan - if you can follow through with it.
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Tom Turrentine
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 23, 2019 - 11:02pm PT
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Just turned 65, just retired in September, and am one year past a 3rd shoulder surgery. But everything is working, and getting stronger again. Started skiing more than in the previous 30 years, what a great snow season, and bought my first season pass, first set of backcountry skies with a lockable heel and skins. It feels like an experiment. And started running again this year with all the time. Skiing, climbing, running, all feels good, just need to keep the rat under control, I'm pretty sure injuries are easier to come by and will spoil the fun.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 23, 2019 - 11:21pm PT
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Roadstead, feeling YOU! The wife was diagnosed with same in Aug.
Undergoing bone marrow transplant as we speak.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Feb 24, 2019 - 05:39am PT
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I'll be 56 this year; and why are all the cool people older than me?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Feb 24, 2019 - 07:09am PT
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Hey, Reilly and Roadstead--Hang in there! I've got a good friend facing the same business. Place a couple of #4's and clip in.
BAd
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Roadstead
Sport climber
Spokane, Wash.
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Feb 24, 2019 - 07:22am PT
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Reilly, Undergoing bone marrow transplant as we speak. That has never even been put on the table as a possibility. Your wife is braver and stronger than I could ever be. Wish you two the very best of luck.
Roadstead
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Feb 24, 2019 - 09:02am PT
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Reilly and Roadstead - Sorry to hear about situations.
Keep the faith, brothers!
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B Leigh
Big Wall climber
Oceanside, CA
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Feb 25, 2019 - 09:41am PT
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This thread should be pinned to the front of the forum and be made required reading for all who join. Very inspiring and motivational for those of us who are "youth-challenged" and exceedingly informative for the clueless and classless millennial gym rats who snicker at our struggles on an overhanging V2 or find your ratty sweats and tee shirt somehow humorous. (Seriously boys, yoga pants?)
I grew up climbing in the Pacific Northwest. Started in 100ft fir trees as a child and have climbed any and everything I could lay my hands on since. I learned rock climbing in Leavenworth and Squamish but when I moved to southern California (where guys wear the yoga pants) I stopped climbing for lack of partner, locale and motivation. That was 30 years ago. I've spent those years golfing (bogey golfer) and flying (aerobatics) - neither hobby is really affordable for me now.
I was sitting in the dentist chair last year and there was a video monitor showing a nice set of soothing images - when a pic of el Cap came up and I literally zoned out on it - I knew I had something left undone. In November I joined a climbing gym. I've gone from V0- to those V2s since then. No chinups to start - now can do 3. Working on 5.10 wall routes. Just trying to build strength in the gym.
Taking aid training, doing top rope soloing at Mt. Woodson, just started easy rope soloing, building skills, learning systems. To me it's reminiscent of my flight training. Flying and aid climbing are very similar disciplines.
I am so grateful for all the contributions by so many of you older, experienced members - I might not have considered this path without your encouraging stories, anecdotes and willingness to share your knowledge.
Look for me in the valley come fall.
Bradley Leighton
BLeigh
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 25, 2019 - 09:48am PT
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Just gonna call you Leighton Kor, son.
Great post!
Best wishes @ reclaiming your youth!
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Feb 25, 2019 - 10:36am PT
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Just back from El Potrero Chico and was pleased to see a very good representation of over 60s (some of them 'well over') amongst the 'mix' climbing there, many of them (myself excluded unfortunately)crushing at quite respectable standards. So there are plenty of positive role models for those approaching, or already beyond, that dreaded 6.0.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 25, 2019 - 06:07pm PT
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I am only 56.. unfortunately some injuries. Isa turned 60 this summer we are pretty stoked in this shot because we just climbed a grade 5 at the lake :)
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yosemite 5.9
climber
santa cruz
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Feb 25, 2019 - 07:00pm PT
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I am sixty-four.
I have hiked up Mt. Dana in Yosemite from the parking lot at 10,000 feet to the summit at 13,000 feet five years in a row. It is an easy way to get to 13,000.
On my 2018 visit there in I also climbed half-way up Hobbit Book at about 9,000 feet until incoming rain forced us to retreat. The approach to Hobbit Book is much more difficult than the climb. It was our second year in a row that we tried. We have been rained out each time. I can still do an occasional 5.10 crack move and feel fine on 5.10 face.
I have also worked up for about eight years now to swimming 1,000 yards of butterfly non-stop, including in 2018. It is at a smooth steady pace, just short of going over my aerobic threshold.
None of these are spectacular accomplishments. But they all take training, patience and determination.
Oh ya, When I was sixty, I spent four hours in the gym one day, lifting, pressing or pulling 106,000 pounds, which is 53 tons. All with free weights, no machines. It took me a year to work up to it. I had twelve different exercises to get me there.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 25, 2019 - 07:08pm PT
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I think that's remarkable, doing 1,000 yds. of the butterfly.
I was just sixteen and had enough to handle with the 400 yds. freestyle the coach assigned me in meets (someone had to do it and I was the low man).
Total RESPECT, 5.9. boo-yah!
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B Leigh
Trad climber
Oceanside, CA
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Feb 25, 2019 - 07:32pm PT
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Yeah, 1000 yds of fly would be like asking me to climb 5.13 - never gonna happen :)
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Feb 25, 2019 - 08:47pm PT
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1000 yards of Butterfly is awesome at any age
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Nick
climber
Dazed, Confused
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Feb 25, 2019 - 08:56pm PT
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Thank you for all of your stories. I have been on a hiatus from climbing for a year now. Although I hike, mountain bike and ski frequently, I have put on a few pounds. Your stories will help motivate me to lose the fat and to get back in shape, so that when retirement happens for me, I will be able to get back to climbing.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 25, 2019 - 10:42pm PT
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The joke among some septuagenarian climbing locals is that we're members of the Assisted Living Climbing Team. T-shirts happened (note the "T" that has fallen and can't get up), and rumors of a bumper sticker are surfacing.
Admission requirements are that you have to climb at some level and be 70 or older. But it transpired that many of our friends were deeply saddened by their ineligibility, so we had to form a JV (60--69), then a development team (50--59), and finally a Pop Warner League (<50).
I keep telling folks they shouldn't be in a rush to get old, but do they listen? We are all well aware that the assisted living joke is funny until some of us end up there, but we've opted to enjoy the humor while it lasts.
In the winter, the ALCT shows up in the gym around noon on certain weekdays. In the shot below, I'm joined by VMC members Claude Suhl and Elaine Mathews.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Feb 26, 2019 - 06:51am PT
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That's great, Rgold! Good times.
BAd
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Feb 26, 2019 - 07:43am PT
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This year I turn 59. Before I turn 60 I hope to complete a weekend birthday challenge / oldman triathlon.
Saturday - Mountain bike 100 miles of single track.
Sunday - Swim 8000 meters (5 miles).
Sunday - Walk half marathon (13.1 miles).
Good for you.
100 miles of single track would beat me up.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Feb 26, 2019 - 07:45am PT
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Sorry to hear about the wife, Reilly.
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jstan
climber
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Feb 26, 2019 - 08:17am PT
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Good grief. If Cathy and I had not thru hiked the JM when I was 62, I would not even remember what it
was like to be 60. The decline got much faster at 65. That I remember.
When in my 30's I briefly had a sore muscle that Hans Kraus exercised with an electrical gadget. Now
for $50 you can get a two channel tens unit to do this. Last two days I have used one on a minor lower
back problem I have had for the last fifty years. Seems to help. But I am no MD.
https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Stimulator-Upgraded-Self-Adhesive-Electrodes/dp/B06ZZ19MS3
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Feb 26, 2019 - 08:29am PT
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At 66, just happy to still be kickin'.
Crossing the Wigwam River in southern British Columbia...
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Adventurer
Mountain climber
Virginia
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Feb 26, 2019 - 11:31am PT
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Turning the big 70 in a few weeks! Still cycling, hiking, and exploring the world.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Feb 26, 2019 - 11:54am PT
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Curious if any of you guys have had the opportunity to track your VO2 max and power output over the years with two or more CP fitness tests?
Personally, unfortunately, I can now add a lower VO2 max to my increased wrinkles, increased graying, decreased bladder performance.
It seems sometimes changes are so incremental you hardly notice them. But the VO2 max doesn't lie. It's kinda disappointing.
It wouldn't surprise me if in the future CP fitness tests were a standard fitness test (say every five years) in the doctor's office - at least for those interested. I for one would certainly partake.
Conrad Anker or Peter Croft, if you've had such a test, or battery of tests, as part of your athletic career, I'd really enjoy seeing your input. Doubly so if you also have recorded, per chance, your Ldl/Hdl ratio over the years; no matter what I do, I can't seem to get mine down.
For anyone interested, for reference...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDMsalOuDpA
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Feb 26, 2019 - 12:37pm PT
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I was actively climbing for 52 years until about a year ago, when at 72 I herniated another disc. It really is surprising how fast one can get out of shape, and my goal is to get back in shape for this coming season. I free soloed a 5.10 crack climb a year ago, and wouldn't get off the ground on it right now.
I've had 2 back operations in the past, but will avoid any more. Anyone here want to trade backs?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Feb 26, 2019 - 02:05pm PT
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Anyone planning (or done) a 60+ birthday challenge?
This year I turn 59. Before I turn 60 I hope to complete a weekend birthday challenge / oldman triathlon.
Saturday - Mountain bike 100 miles of single track.
Sunday - Swim 8000 meters (5 miles).
Sunday - Walk half marathon (13.1 miles).
Not even sure where I could do 100 miles of singletrack, or even do so in a reasonable day. It ain't just the miles that would wreck you, the elevation gain would be substantial (maybe 25K?).
Did a B-Day challenge at 53 - 53 routes. I was young and strong then; now not so much.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Feb 26, 2019 - 03:05pm PT
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Yikes, Steve. That's quite the back. Makes my finger injury look like nuthin'. Hope you recover well. My goal is to get back to climbing decently--5.10ish for me--sometime this summer. This finger thing is taking a long, long time. Right now I'm doing what I can to stay fit and motivated. Fortunately, I get a lot of satisfaction from hiking, taking the dogs out, doing some yoga. Once the worst of the winter weather is over, I'll do more on the house, too. Heh, almost wrote "moron the house," which isn't far off! Hang in there.
BAd
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 26, 2019 - 03:19pm PT
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Yeah Steve, hope that gets better.
It is a reminder that at a certain age, everything can be fine one day and go totally to hell the next. Comes with the territory, but that doesn't make it any easier to endure when it happens.
You 60 year-old youngsters should enjoy your time in the sun. As Gill says, "60 is the youth of old age."
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B Leigh
Trad climber
Oceanside, CA
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Feb 26, 2019 - 04:41pm PT
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Well, if we're going to go into the x-rays . . .
Here's a little work I had done in Germany 12 years ago.
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B Leigh
Trad climber
Oceanside, CA
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Feb 28, 2019 - 04:34pm PT
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Wow. I didn't mean to kill the thread. Just showing off some of my specialized "climbing hardware" :)
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 28, 2019 - 04:37pm PT
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LOL ....
By the way?
Does all that hardware trigger the security metal detectors?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 28, 2019 - 06:39pm PT
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Birthday challenges are artificial. The real challenge is being disciplined enough and motivated to do what it takes to do the physical activities that give you pleasure. George Lowe (74) and I (75) returned this evening from five strenuous days in a seldom visited corner of Patagonia. We load carried or climbed an average of 9.5 hours a day in terrain slightly less gentrified than the trail to Vernal Falls.
Yes, we weren’t the tigers of yesterday but I think we acquited ourselves pretty well. We were able to do this because we still have the desire to explore mountain areas devoid of people and, most importantly, we have maintained whatever physical condition we still have by doing the activities we enjoy year after year on a consistent basis. Yoga classes, fad diets, spinning classes, pilates etc. pale in comparison to doing the real thing.
I realize that many things can affect your physical life as you age but if you are fortunate enough to enjoy good health don’t let the fact that you are a certain age move you to the sofa in front of your big screen TV.
You have to pay the price...something most people only pay lip service to. There are no shortcuts and it’s something money can’t buy.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Feb 28, 2019 - 07:27pm PT
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At 60 I could do 5.10 off the couch.
12 years later getting off the couch is a scripted event.
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 28, 2019 - 07:53pm PT
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Those lock offs really aggravate my arthur-ritus!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Feb 28, 2019 - 08:44pm PT
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Hey, B Leigh, dish on the accident. What the hell led to all that iron in your neck? Wow. How's it feel now?
BAd
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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60 is the new 30 for us boomers.
Going 61 in a few days. Death has me on the medium range list. Fighting back.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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B LEIGH,
I Relate to that mid-Evil bridge work. The plate & screws.
Are The placement locations 2-4?
somehow that frontal-fixation looks way (more) serious!
then 3-6 that I'm familiar with ...
Where you threatened with "Rods" as well?
out of curiosity What are the "clips" below the plate`ns screws?
(asking for a friend._.choke.)
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Birthday challenges may be "artificial," but they should not be so easily dismissed.
To pull off a day or weekend of sustained maximum effort still requires getting out there on at least "a consistent basis" and actually doing the activities.
How you put that to use is really a personal decision. There is no implicit standard that makes some activities more noble than others.
But, I do agree that besides trying to follow a healthy lifestyle, luck plays a major role on what activities we can pursue as we age.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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If 60 is the new 30...I'm nearly twenty and still can't drink legally. :D
My 9-year-old isn't speaking to me because she wants an iPhone for her birthday...in July. (I guess I started a bit early!)
I've resolved that we'll spend every weekend she's with me outdoors from now on until she runs away.
Well, at least after I recover from my next round of surgery.
The fight with Lyme and too much time proving myself in the office over the last year or so have rightfully put me fitness-wise in my place.
I love climbing because it is so humbling, and there's always room to improve whether you're starting out or starting over. The simple exercise of moving over rock implicitly, relentlessly and without a shred of remorse reminds you that the key to life is balance...
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B Leigh
Trad climber
Oceanside, CA
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This was the condition before surgery. It's called post-lamenectomy (sp) syndrome. I had an exploratory surgery in my 20's where surgeons removed some bones from my neck in order to get at my spine (looking for signs of MS). Nowadays, that kind of surgery is seldom done (better imaging tech) and if it is - some kind of artificial structure is put in to replace the bones that are removed. But that was not done in my case and 20 years later time and gravity bent my neck into the above configuration. When I finally got to a surgeon after years of pain and opiate dependency he said I was risking paralysis or death just walking around in that condition. I like to share this story with anyone faced with spinal fusion surgery as the artificial disks I have are a much better alternative. The entire "journey" can be found at http://pacificcoastjazz.com/germany-bradleys-journey/
Metal detectors -- Amazingly enough, I've only set off the detectors 1 time (I fly a lot) but I do carry documentation just in case.
Are The placement locations 2-4?
C1-C3 are fused. ADR at C4-C6
Where you threatened with "Rods" as well?
Here in the US, they wanted to put a plate in the back of my head, attach a rod running down into middle back and completely immobilize my neck for life. So I went looking for options abroad.
out of curiosity What are the "clips" below the plate`ns screws?
I believe those are left over from the original lamenectomy surgery. Not sure.
(asking for a friend._.choke.)
I'm always happy to answer questions regarding my surgery. If you have any left unanswered after reading the posts and blog - feel free. Again, if you or someone you know is looking at fusion surgery - please look into ADR (artificial disk replacement) surgery as an alternative. It is now avail here in the US for many situations.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Andy Tuthill 2 days ago leading the business pitch of La Promonade 5+ 62 or 63? years young
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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He ain’t gonna make 64 without better rope management skills. jess sayin’... 😈
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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I'm 60 now, and am climbing better than I have in years. I have less power than before, but after nearly 50 years of climbing, know a few tricks about resting and efficiency.
For the past year I have been working on developing a little used crag in Jalisco, Mexico. I find that the stimulation of new routes aids my climbing ability. Two weeks ago, I on-sighted the FA of a new Off-Width (5.11) "Diciplina Catholica". In my 30s I found 5.11 OW fairly difficult.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Reily, do you even still climb or do you just cut people down...…
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Tradman, do you always ignore emoticons. sheesh!
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Reily, do you even still climb or do you just cut people down...…
You must be thinking of Norton.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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60 is but a minor speed bump...beware of the road ahead!
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FredC
Gym climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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May 13, 2019 - 08:55am PT
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I did a challenge at 60. On my birthday I "ran" up half dome from Happy Isles. 2 h 21 m. I was super happy to get up there that fast.
Now it is almost exactly 4 years later. I have just retired and am starting to bike more and hopefully get into the gym more than I have been able to for years.
How many of you guys screwed yourselves up by ramping up too fast when you suddenly have moire time?
Fred,
Former Indian Rock guy
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 13, 2019 - 03:46pm PT
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I'd like to make a reservation for May 9 2029. Thanks in Advance
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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May 13, 2019 - 05:07pm PT
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Scole, glad to see you crushing the FA's like BITD! I am suffering from Rheumatoid Arthritis and can barely walk a half mile on flat ground right now. I'm hoping for improvement, but am pretty shut down at the moment.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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May 13, 2019 - 07:16pm PT
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I was hoping to ski my age this winter-but the best I did was a few days of 45 km
Turn 60 in 3 months- So I'll have to set up the plan for next winter- I will say that the fun quotient ha a tendency to back down after the first 25 kms.
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Was Red Rock, now KANSAS
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May 14, 2019 - 06:44am PT
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69 years old and 4.5 years out from a spinal cord injury. Had to learn to walk and use my arms again. I just lead a 5.11 last month outside. Doctors said to find another sport and improvement would end at 2 years. BS. It took a year to do one push up and one chin up but I kept training hard. I am not as strong as I was and looking forward to my 70th birthday challenge. On one of my 65th challenges (I did 65 challenges in 65 days) I did 65 chin-ups in sets of 2 or 3 with an additional 65 lbs in 65 minutes. It is now fun to re-climb 5.10's that I did before the accident as if they are completely different routes. Gill and Donini are my inspiration on the aging process.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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May 14, 2019 - 11:38am PT
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Word of warning about the sixth decade, from my experience. (In less than two years, I will be entitled to post on the "only for 70 year olds" thread currently active.)
During my 40s and 50s, I thought decline in advancing years was "for other people" since I experienced virtually NO problems.
Apparently my bill became due with interest in my 60's, which have given me:
three kidney stones;
four eye surgeries;
four root canals;
chronic soreness in response to physical activity;
increased needs for sleep and rest.
Still climbing, skiing, playing golf, traveling, practicing yoga, etc. but the "price of admission and participation" has been raised and the "objective yields" are going down.
I am still willing to pay the price for the diminished rewards - and think that's all anyone can expect of their advancing years.
Thanks for all others who posted on this thread; many of you have stories that make me realize I've gotten off light - so far. Donini calls the 60's a "minor road bump"; if so, I'm in for some real nastiness.
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