Discussion Topic |
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Deuce
Trad climber
Sonoma County, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 13, 2006 - 08:06pm PT
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I am going to Yosemite this weekend and I was wondering if there are any celebrities I should be on the look out for? i.e. Britney Spears.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Jun 13, 2006 - 08:09pm PT
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I've heard PTPP will be in valley. I also here he's willing to autograph body parts... ;)
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 13, 2006 - 08:30pm PT
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If you go there tomorrow morning you can watch the Huber Brothers try to break the Nose record.
And if they don't get it, they'll probably be back up trying to break it again within a few rest days.
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valygrl
climber
Santa Cruz
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:21pm PT
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What's their current time?
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Slakkey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:27pm PT
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I think that PTPP said it was right around 3 hours. I believe the current record is at 2:48 by Holywod Hans F.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:33pm PT
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The Nose speed record is by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. It takes two to go for speed on the Nose.
Slakkey is correct, the current speed record is 2:48:30 .
See Hans' website:
http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm
Go Huberbaum! If they can break the record, look for Yuji and Hans to return and try to shave another few minutes off the 2:48....
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:35pm PT
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Slakkey I think it's 3:14 on the record, that's what some of the friends I have rigging for them said they were going to try to beat.
Either way if you're in the valley tomorrow morning, it's worth the show. I watched them on 2 of their 4 Zodiac speed ascents in 2004 before they got the number they wanted (1:54) and watching those guys free climbing El Cap that fast is mind boggling. Especially if you have a good pair of binos.
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Slakkey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:38pm PT
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Sorry I forgot Yuji
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Jun 14, 2006 - 12:26am PT
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After seeing a Hollywood H. presentation in Mammoth I was left with the impression that Yuji led all the pitches. Hans kind of skirted the question. Anyone know for sure? Will the Hubers swing leads?
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Slakkey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 14, 2006 - 12:44am PT
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In speed climbing it is not unusual for one person to lead a number of pitches then they switch. Typically it is 4 to 6 pitches before they switch to lead.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 14, 2006 - 12:44am PT
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I played pool with Alex and Thomas tonight. I got lucky when Thomas sewered the 8-ball, Alex kicked my ass. They told me they do very little simul-climbing, don't use a Ropeman, and short-fix every pitch. I didn't ask who leads what blocks.
Their best time so far is 3:14. They will be trying on Thursday morning, not tomorrow, because the weather is a bit suspect. They told me they think they might get the record time, but are not bothered whether it's this attempt or the next. They will be around for a couple weeks filming - their speed attempts are in the morning, but they need the sunlight later in the day for filming.
I wouldn't autograph anything on Deuce's bod, but Cybele was very proud of her annotated "JM" carabiner.
P.S. Nice to see you, Werner!
Cheers,
Pete
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 14, 2006 - 01:31am PT
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I've heard that WB character is around. You could say he's a celebrity .... in climber terms.
Anders
ps WB not equating with Warner Brothers.
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Tradboy
Social climber
Valley
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Jun 14, 2006 - 01:41pm PT
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Y'all are confusing this guy with the real Deucey.
Ran up the Nose a few days ago and it looks like somebody has ticked the sh#@ out of every hold. WTF??? That's no record in my book if this is how it's going to be done. Yuji had no ticks when he lead the whole thing; in fact, it rained the day before.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:19pm PT
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i also don't think hans and yuji rehearsed it as a team. dean and timmy were chucking laps on it and getting faster each time, i wonder how fast hans and yuji could do it if they went up a few times w/ all the ticks and whatever fixed gear may have been added (speaking of which, wasn't that big-deal zodiac clean-up done just after the hubers both raced up and then free'd the rig? or was it the other way around...).
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
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Mimi...the "Deuce" that started this thread isn't the
Deuce you think it is...
ie. it isn't John.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
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JM - would you, like, want to get together for a beer?
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:30pm PT
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I climbed Zodiac right after the Hubers freed it. It was before the "big clean-up."
There was some fixed gear on the route but not a ton, some heads, rurps and beaks were fixed.
There were tick marks all over the thing, some were way out on the face away from the original line. pretty cool lookin actually.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:33pm PT
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There may be a few tickmarks, but I bet there bloody aren't dozens and dozens of extra bolts added, right next to perfect Alien placements, or placed five feet apart next to perfect A3 cracks, or three bolts within eight feet to protect a traverse, like there are on certain other routes!
Grrrrr.....
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:39pm PT
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JM = Joshuatree Masters. As inscribed on prized nuetrino carabiners handed out to attendees of the Stonemasters Reunion. Zip up your pants Pete....aid climbers need not apply!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:39pm PT
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Some folks just pay attention to their own typing. Funny to watch. Notice what I mean, Shack?
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:41pm PT
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pete, give it a rest, the skinner bashing is in another thread.
or you could post your TR and rant about it there.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:53pm PT
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I will post photos. Alex and Thomas told me last night they weren't sure if it was Tommy who placed the dozens of extra bolts on Dihedral Wall. Could it have been Todd? I don't know who it was, do you? But they need to come out. When you see they photos you'll agree. It's pretty bad, mate. A once-proud aid line all drilled to hell and turned to a sport climbing clipup.
I went free climbing once on Sunday....
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jun 14, 2006 - 04:00pm PT
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i only know about it second hand. it was brought up during the whole wet denim/lycra rant, one of those 100+ post taco classics.
iirc, caldwell also mentioned in the article about freeing it that he couldn't have done it w/ out skinner's "vision" and equipping. i'll double check the quote tonight.
this was the one that always seemed mind blowing. do you remember what you placed in this crack pete?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 14, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
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Did Triple Direct last week which of course included the Nose from Camp 4 up.
The whole routes is utterly and completely ticked up on nearly every pitch. It looks like a gym everything marked.
I have mixed feelings about it since, of course, the marks wash off and the ability that the Hubers show is mind boggling to me.
It does bring up the question of, if this sort of freeing and speeding trend is going to become popular, will we have to live with painted and detailed placements and jams on our big walls?
There was not obviously new gear fixed for the purpose of speeding things up, except that much of the already fixed gear had perlon loops attached, using the same EDK knot and type of cord. No foul in my mind there.
Hope to see ya in the valley John
Peace
Karl
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 14, 2006 - 04:25pm PT
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blinders?
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Jun 14, 2006 - 04:30pm PT
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if you had 2 different parties working the same line at the same time, but w/ different beta, would they use different colors of chalk? then you could climb "the pink route" all the way up el cap!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jun 14, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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you've got it all wrong matt.
pink is for the right hand holds
blue is for the left hand holds
white for foot holds.
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Tradboy
Social climber
Valley
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Jun 14, 2006 - 04:35pm PT
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Thanks Karl for reiterating my original point and confirming the idiocy of the following statement from someone who wasn't up there:
There may be a few tickmarks
Pete, how many bolts were there? I'd like to see the pictures as well. I doubt Tommy added any but he certainly didn't have problems clipping them. Didn't he get busted a few years back for having a power drill on Muir? He was also railing on Ivo and Thomas for bolting a new variation to Changing Corners. Yet, he couldn't have freed the Nose without the Jardine Traverse. Do I sense some hypocrisy
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Jun 14, 2006 - 04:41pm PT
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i remember hearing somewhere that skinner had bolted many pitches that sean leary had already successfully freed on gear, but i am not an authority on the matter.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jun 14, 2006 - 04:42pm PT
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tommy was still in his sport clippin' days(and probably about 15) when Cosgrove and Smith got busted for the power drill on the muir.
he certiainly does utilize the work of others this way, but it's a good way free walls w/ out making a decision about fixed gear.
agree about the nose hypocrisy though. Sandahal adds an arbitrary bolt to the changing corners pitch, can't free it. Lynn comes around a few month's later and uses said bolt to free the pitch. a LONG time later T&B do the same. shortly after, ivo and thomas add another arbitrary(remember, the first one wasn't original) bolt and everyone get's pissed.
huh?
edit: here's the original post about skinner adding bolts to the dihedral. first post, all the rest is typical taco name calling
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=128775#msg153902
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 14, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
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"do you remember what you placed in this crack pete?"
Checking. Will post photos. Stand by.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 14, 2006 - 05:06pm PT
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you should have chopped them Pete!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 14, 2006 - 05:21pm PT
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Chop? Oh hell, no - the perpetrator[s] are not going to get off that easily!
What needs to happen is that whoever put them in has to go back up and remove them. This means using tuning forks to remove each and every bolt that desecrates this once-proud line, and FILL THE HOLES with a mixture of epoxy and rock dust to render the holes as invisible as possible, thus returning the route to its original state.
This is not a Lazy Man's Project. It will involve substantive work. I'm not going to do it, because I didn't bugger it up in the first place. Neither am I going to do a half-assed job. It was tempting to steal the bolt hangers, but I don't need them, and besides, they are needed to slip the tuning forks beneath.
If the climber[s] who placed these scores of extra bolts won't remove them voluntarily, then their sponsors should be contacted so that the sponsors can apply some pressure. This sort of stuff isn't cool!
Imagine this if you will - bolts placed a measured five feet apart - five or six in a row - right next to a perfect A3 crack. I'm talking about a foot to eighteen inches away from the crack. Dihedral Wall is somewhat obscure, it doesn't get a lot of traffic.
Now imagine if the Hubers had done such a thing in their attempt to free climb Zodiac, just to make it easier and to save pockets for their fingerholds? What do you think the outcry would have been? [Note: The Hubers are not pussies. They run it out, a long way, over hard ground, rather than add bolts to existing lines]
The only reason people haven't said anything about Dihedral Wall is that they didn't know about it. This is about to change, as you will see.
I am uploading photos now.
The photo in the question above is undoubtedly the tenth pitch above The Ledge. The pinnacle in the background is unmistakable. This was far and away the worst overbolting on the route, as you are about to see.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 14, 2006 - 05:34pm PT
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Jaybro... yup in must be the blinders. makes you wonder how you can assassinate someone you can't see.
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 14, 2006 - 05:44pm PT
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Hi, John. Hope to see you. I have one of your ledges. It's real keen.
hahahahahahah!!!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 14, 2006 - 06:09pm PT
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Yeah John, I hope you see yo on "your" trip to the ditch. I have one of your spoons. It's really keen.
*giggle*
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 14, 2006 - 08:31pm PT
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I just spent fifteen minutes on the phone with Thomas and Alex, I called to wish them luck tomorrow.
I asked them about the tick-marks of chalk, and they told me that they placed them to mark the cam placements. "Ven vee are laybacking, vee can't see where to place ze cams. But we know the chalk marks a bomber cam placement. Yes, we will remove the chalk marks afterwards. We don't need them now as we have everything memorized."
"We aren't trying to hide anything - everything is being filmed anyway. Once the movie comes out, you can see exactly what we've done."
Did you place any pitons?
"Not one fukking piton did we place! We replaced a few of the old manky slings with new ones. Why should we trust falling onto an old sling?"
What's this I hear about you guys putting in lots of pitons on Zodiac for your speed ascent and your free ascent?
"It's not true! We put in only a few. When we made the speed ascent, the route was fully equipped with lots of fixed gear."
"But when we made the speed ascent, we did place a small number of pins, mostly on the variations away from the aid route. On the aid route, two key pitons were as follows. One was on the Nipple Pitch - we placed one good pin, and from there we would run it out [about ten metres]. On the pitch below the Nipple, we cleaned out three fixed heads and replaced them with two beaks."
From the sounds of it, they really didn't add many pins to Zodiac.
So what about all those new bolts on Dihedral Wall? There are ladders of bolts only inches away from perfectly good placements in the cracks!
"I know for a fact some of them were placed by Todd Skinner. I don't know how many extra, if any at all, were placed by Tommy Caldwell."
Regardless of the outcome of their speed attempt tomorrow, they remain on the summit for another day or two working on the film.
You guys who talk smack about Alex and Thomas really need to get a life. These guys are straight-shooters all the way, not to mention being helluva nice guys. Approachable, unpretentious, they're a class act all the way.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 14, 2006 - 08:45pm PT
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Hey Pete, where'd Thomas' accent go from the first paragraph to the last? He started so German and became so American hahah!
I agree, they're both great guys. I've spent numerous meadow sessions with them over the years and they're always great to be around. Their passion for climbing is contagious. Thomas came along a couple weeks ago and was hanging with us and someone was asking him all kinds of questions about the Nose speed attempt and he happily and honestly answered every one of them.
Those guys are the real deal.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 14, 2006 - 08:52pm PT
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Vell, it vas getting a bit hard to read, ja?
So where else but Yosemite can you schmooze with the world's best? Alex and Thomas are always supportive of everyone's efforts, from the pros down to the gumbies like me. They were genuinely interested in my two-week ascent of Dihedral Wall with Cybele, the antithesis of a speed ascent.
"Zis is 'Pass the Pitons' Pete," they introduced me last night to their film crew. "He is ze von vee told you about vith ze ghetto blaster up on ze vall playing AC/DC!"
Good luck tomorrow, lads!
I *know* you're reading this, Thomas. So come on and make a Supertopo post.
Voice of Dirty Harry: "Do it, PUNK!"
Come on, do your Arnie voice!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 14, 2006 - 09:30pm PT
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Hey guys, Deuce above is not the same as deuce (aka John M.)
I saw those Beaks the Huberbaum placed on Zodiac below the nipple. Those sucker were freakin in there! I could visualize Alex smashing them with all his might then taking 30ft whippers on them. I felt pretty secure!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 14, 2006 - 09:38pm PT
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Lambone - a few of us around here that don't wear blinders fully realized that. Kinda funny watching the ones that don't.
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 14, 2006 - 11:00pm PT
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Lambone says Middendorf just did Zodiac with the Hubers and took a bunch of monster whips! This is so sick, I gotta get out there!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 14, 2006 - 11:08pm PT
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no,no,no...
Middendorf retro bolted Dihedral wall with the Hubers and their chalk is still all over the holds, while Tommy Caldwell and PTPP are trying to remove bolts that Todd Skinner placed on Zodiac years back...while making a speed ascent. So far PTPP took the biggest whip trying to free Beth Rodden, the Hubers were filming it and Pete will be posting his pics soon..
jeeze, keep up dude...
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:00am PT
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"So where else but Yosemite can you schmooze with the world's best? Alex and Thomas are always supportive of everyone's efforts, from the pros down to the gumbies like me. They were genuinely interested in my two-week ascent of Dihedral Wall with Cybele, the antithesis of a speed ascent."
That's one thing I've always noticed about them too Pete. They'll ask you what YOU have been climbing with genuine interest and are happy to listen to other climbers discuss what they're up to.
They definitely bring a very positive spirit with them whenever they're in the valley.
Keep us posted on their time tomorrow Pete. Best of luck to das Hubers.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:17am PT
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Lambone, I thought Baba was up with the Hubers taking huge whippers on Zodiac and Deuce was belaying Beth on The Nose while yo was trying to psych out Skinner so that he didn't go and beat Coilers head in for pulling the bolts on Zodiac. And BTW, ya'll got it all wrong - those are MY tick marks. No wonder T*R gets confused.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:36am PT
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Well I also heard that Bachar decided to tie into a rope for once and climb a 5.11 he had never been on. HE took a huge lead fall six or seven thousand feet off the deck and the rope broke. Now I'm scared! Two ropes in one year? JB just walked it off though. Go figure....
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:36am PT
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Stop what?
I totally just got in from having a sixer in the Meadow with Deucey, Alex& Thomas, and Keira Knightley. I'd talk a little more at length about how great it was to see John again but Keira wants to hop on Jump for Joy by headlamp. Out.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:39am PT
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Oh, and as the other Deuce pointed out Britney Spears *is* in the Valley and she wants to jump on my headlamp after six. I'm not down on the sit and spin gig though. She did suggest that Keira join us in the ALL-IN for a game of poker. I think you got ditched in the ditch, yo!
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:42am PT
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Dude, can you do a K-Fed roll?
haha
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:46am PT
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No, but I can do a canadian assassin roll. The profit margin is huge on that bad boy. It's full of hot air and dung. Or, maybe I can.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
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Um, hi.
I, uh, slept in. I'm sitting in Yos. Village drinking coffee, since it's not yet noon.
I don't know how Alex and Thomas did this morning as I have not yet ventured out. Some "reporter" I am, eh?
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eddie7
Trad climber
London, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 02:22pm PT
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C'mon Pete.
Get your hide in gear and give us an update, dude!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 07:14pm PT
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Rumour has it the Hubers either ran into, or avoided, a traffic jam and speed bumps at Sickle, and that the speed attempt today was a bust.
Presumably they remained to continue filming because the crew is up there, which they told me was the plan for the next couple days.
More when I find out something factual.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 15, 2006 - 07:56pm PT
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PTPP wrote the Hubers said
"I asked them about the tick-marks of chalk, and they told me that they placed them to mark the cam placements. "Ven vee are laybacking, vee can't see where to place ze cams."
Absolutely and totally false. (I'm not sure I'm against the tick marks but here's what I saw)
There are tick marks over everything, cam placements, jams, even sloper holds and arete grabs. If they put cams in those tick marks, they'd be as slow as me (well, they'd be slower than they are)
There are dozens, if not, hundreds of tick marks that are plainly on holds and jam (which just let me marvel at what folks can climb)
peace
Karl
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 15, 2006 - 08:01pm PT
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"Rumour has it the Hubers either ran into, or avoided, a traffic jam and speed bumps at Sickle, and that the speed attempt today was a bust"
You mean their "Stop! Don't move!! Vee go for speed!" calls didn't work this time hahaha?
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jack herer
climber
chico, ca
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Jun 15, 2006 - 11:20pm PT
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Only time I met the Hubers, they where extremely rude to the people I was around, I couldnt belive their hostility. I will never gain back any respect for them.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Jun 16, 2006 - 01:33am PT
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ok- so i have spoken to 2 friends who've been on the nose in the last week or so. both say that the tick marks are pervasive throughout the route, and i have also been told that the route is fairly well set up in spots. for example, there are several new looking fixed nuts in the great roof.
PPTP above makes the point that they didn't hammer in a bunch of new pitons (someone have a piton issue? just askin...), but that statement leaves open the question of whether or not the route has been set up, and how completely. apparently, as i understand it (and i have not been up there to see it), there have been additions of fixed gear (albeit not pitons) in various spots and the slings or webbing throughout the route have been replaced, so a bold and talented climber can not only run it out, but can do so w/ a lighter than usual rack and less then the usual risk. all of that makes sense from a speed climbing standpoint.
one could argue that it would impact the experience of other joeclimber types on the route, but i think w/ the popularity of free attempts on the various more popular routes, joe ought to expect that sort of thing on el cap trade routes in june!
i do think think that anyone who wants to state that they hold the record for a speed ascent on any route ought to be open about their tactics. i am in no way intending to criticize the hubers or their goals, talents, or efforts, and to be fair they are not here saying that they did or did not do this or that to set the route up for their sprint, but i do think the tone of PPTP's post was slightly misleading (perhaps not so and it was only my impression, but who cares either way).
my only points are that 1)some effort has been made to limit both the risk involved and the need for any downtime in fiddling w/ gear during the ascent, and 2)while that doesn't seem to be against any "rules" i have ever heard of, still a climber who intends to publicly announce an accomplishment/record on a given climb ought to be open about their tactics, and let those to whom they are announcing be the judge of the relative style. just like a pinkpoint/redpoint/headpoint/onsight, it's all semantics, and yet it's possibly not exactly equal to another effort where the climber chose a different style. [edit-] as an example i would hold up ammon mcneely's habbit of onsighting hard routes in a push to claim multiple speed ascent records, and i doubt that anyone would suggest that the rehearsed times up well equipt routes fall into the same category [/edit]
best of luck to alex and thomas, climb safe and tear it up!
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Jun 16, 2006 - 01:51am PT
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Too funny.
Haven't these people figured it out yet?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 16, 2006 - 02:02am PT
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"i have also been told that the route is fairly well set up in spots. for example, there are several new looking fixed nuts in the great roof."
Having done the Nose a number of times, I can say that, in terms of fixed gear, it's no worse than it ever was and is perhaps a bit better. I had to even place a piece or two in the horizontal part of the great roof (probably cause some free climbers needed the pin scar, but there you have it) I'm sure the Hubers just ape through.
The route is very tick marked and some old looking fixed gear has updated slings, but much of the newer looking fixed stuff really looked like cams that got sideways and wanked, not prefixed by speed climbers.
Peace
Karl
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Jun 16, 2006 - 02:07am PT
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OK TR, I'll explain, and for those of you still confused, here's the deal.
Most of the posters on this thread think the OP "Duece",
is the well know climber John Middendorf. It is not.
The real JM posts here under the name "Duece4".
I even posted this in my first post, but obviously most people don't read.
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BKW
Mountain climber
Central Texas
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Jun 16, 2006 - 09:02am PT
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Trash man you left a line out, its,
pink is for the right hand holds
blue is for the left hand holds
white for foot holds
don't touch the brown smear.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 16, 2006 - 11:38am PT
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It really was sort of funny watching the people with the blinders on not reading and realizing - just doing some nice ass kissing. Of course some have that long noted track record going so it comes as no surprise.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 16, 2006 - 01:11pm PT
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hey JM, long time no see....
I might be around and we should have a beer or something with PTPP and the German kids. Always loved your stuff! Got any spoons left?
See ya there!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 16, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
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Russ, I just got a call from John and he said he's passing through Flagstaff on his way out. I recommended some sushi and he asked if you like the stuff. Knowing the answer I quickly flipped into biz mode. He's ordering a few platters and is planning on taking them to you to enjoy with your beer party. None should be allocated to the canadian assassin but the bavarian boys can have their fill! And save a Locker Roll for Britney and a Naturoll for Keira.
I hope you like the Werner Roll.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Jun 18, 2006 - 03:57pm PT
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WTF????
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 18, 2006 - 04:11pm PT
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^^^
Imposter wannabe.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
Austin, TX to South LakeTahoe, CA
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Jun 18, 2006 - 04:26pm PT
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Who gives a flying f#%k about whoever JM is and his imposter status?
Isn't this a thread about the Hubers in Yos this week?
Please advise.
Or STFU.
:)
-Aaron
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Jun 19, 2006 - 11:02pm PT
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now how 'bout that sushi...
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 19, 2006 - 11:04pm PT
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Uh... Tahoe Climber. Did you not read the original post? This is ALL about Britney Spears in Yosemite. Geez dude, keep it straight.
And yeah, how about that sushi. Werner, John just picked up the order and is on the way to deliver to your doorstep. YUM!
In the far back we have Tako (octopus), the inside-out roll is tempura tofu with tobiko topping it, left front is Ika (squid) sashimi, and front right we have one of piton ron's apparent favorite - Ikura (Salmon roe) battelship rolls (tastes like bait to me but whatebber).
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 19, 2006 - 11:14pm PT
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YUP! and she's having a rug-munching fest with Keira Knightley! Wish they invited me.
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 19, 2006 - 11:29pm PT
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Funny you should bring up Keira. So I'm trying to rock over on Midnight Lightning and I'm like, "Hey, Keira, watch me here, babe." And there's silence mid-mantle so I look down and she's not even paying attention because she's talking to John Frigging Middendorf. And John is giving her the George Costanza line about how he's an architect and all and Keira goes, "My but aren't you a strong one, Deuce. Do you mind if I call you Deuce?"
Me and Keira, man, it is so over between us. The Keira roll is dead, you hear me--DEAD.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 19, 2006 - 11:52pm PT
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How can the Keira roll be dead if I never made it? I was working on the Werner Roll when all of a sudden the cabinets in my kitchen started opening and shutting ALL BY THEMSELVES! Geez, maybe I put too much wasabi on Werners karmic spirit? Freaked me out so bad I forgot 'bout "her" (don't wanna mention the name and cause yo another hearbreak) roll.
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Kevster
Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
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Jun 20, 2006 - 12:46am PT
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Climbed the Nose this weekend, and can say that the traffic on Sickle did not slow down the Hubers at all, we all got out of the way when they came through. They did have some problems passing a party at the top of pitch 2 when Alex penji'ed and pinned another guy to the wall with his rope. As for the ticks, they are on EVERYTHING, even the king swing. Tried the KS where they had ticked it and got my A$$ handed to me, they were swinging above the toe of the boot. There was at least 1 new stopperhead on the Great Roof, but everything else looked older with new webbing/spectra added. I hope that they clean off the ticks on the upper pitches, I am sure the rain will take care of the rest. Personally I like having the fixed gear with new webbing, but wondering if it will last. Will the Nose get a "clean-up" like the Zodiac did once the speed record is broken? Guess we will have to wait and see....
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 20, 2006 - 03:08am PT
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Nice Job on the Nose. Is it true the King Swing no longer has a second penji point?
Huber Bros, guilty of tick marks, not guilty of fixing gear to make the route easier.
I've done the Nose when nobody was trying to free or speed it and found the whole great roof fixed and all kinds of penji ropes and such littering the route. Seems pretty reasonable at the moment.
Peace
Karl
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 20, 2006 - 03:22pm PT
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Please send your best wishes to Thomas!
I guess you guys hadn't heard, but on their attempt on the speed record late last week, Thomas took a very nasty 30-foot lead fall while short-fixing above Pancake Flake in what he called The Groove and sustained a possible project-stopping injury.
I only got a chance to phone him this morning. "I'm soooo lucky, Pete, it wasn't any worse!" He hit a ledge HARD pretty much straight on his ass, and although he suffered some spinal compression he was able to jug out on his own. He figures he might have a go at it after ten days' rest or so. Apparently there was no bad injury, but it must be a helluva bruise! [Good thing he landed where he did - sheesh!]
What happened?
"My foot slipped. It was a bad fall."
"I might try climbing a bit tomorrow, but I will have to see how my body and my head are doing. If I'm unable to continue for either reason, we'll have to come back in the fall."
This would be 0 fer 2 - last season you recall Alex injured his right ankle in a fall, and that stopped their attempt that time.
"The film project will continue in the fall. We now know we can do it [set new speed record] and the crew is very motivated. We work well together and are having lots of fun."
Best of luck, buddy! I bet you're reading these threads on your enforced rest days. When you're feeling more up to snuff, Thomas, then you and me and Alex and Sam Adams need to get together for another "training session"! So watch yer ass, eh? And don't sink the Eight-Ball too soon!
Cheers, mate
Pete
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Kevster
Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
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Jun 20, 2006 - 03:22pm PT
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No second penji point that I could find....man I wish someone had video'ed me trying the KS....could have gone in the Yos bloopers hall of flame. I probably tried it at the ticked spot 10 times, once missing a footer and slamming into the arete at mock 2. Pretty funny stuff.....
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nate
Trad climber
virginia
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Jun 20, 2006 - 05:49pm PT
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best wishes to thomas for a quick recovery. Those guys are for real. About the Dihedral wall - there was quite a harsh note about the bolting and chipping on the Bulletin Board c/o a Mr. Beyer not too long ago. Not the most reputable source perhaps but defenitely in agreement with pass the pee bottle Pete.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 20, 2006 - 07:10pm PT
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Yeah, best wishes to Thomas. Saw him late Sunday afternoon, soaking in the Merced...that cold clean water can heal anything so hopefully his tailbone is feeling better. I guess he hit pretty hard in that fall but is going tbe okay. He and Alex seemed in good spirits and it seemed like they're still stoked to make a go of this after Thomas gets as little down time this week to get back to 100%.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Jun 21, 2006 - 01:47pm PT
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Yep, I happened to be standing on the ledge with Alex right before the fall. It was a VERY scary moment and was surprised Thomas didn't break anything. It would have killed a normal man, haa haa.
So, Pete? I heard you bailed on WOS. I also heard you used my rope to top rope the pitch you couldn't do. Any truth to this?
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 21, 2006 - 02:14pm PT
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I emphatically hope this is not the case, eh? Did ya get snaileyed after announcing your intentions in this worldwide forum, Pete? Well [in Dirty Harry voice], "Did ya, punk?"
haha, just messin.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jun 21, 2006 - 02:43pm PT
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Ammon! What's up bro!
Pete didn't use your rope, Ammon. Not sure where you'd have gotten that idea/info. Now, while I wasn't up there yesterday, I know he had his own rope fixed, so there'd have been no point! I (Randy) almost gave you a call though Ammon to ask your permission to use your rope for some photos. =) By that time, however, Tom had gotten up the rest of the first pitch and a rope was hung. If you ask around, I was pretty emphatic about anyone reaching you and asking before your rope was touched, if it were to be. Just tryin' to be respectful, dude. Everyone seemed to concur.
While Pete may deserve a little ribbing, due to said announcement, it will be interesting to see anyone repeat this route. Whoever repeats WoS has BoS (Balls of Steel) (TM).... I'll let Pete tell his own story and answer those questions.
Incidentally, Ammon, the pitches you fixed were not the correct start to WoS, and directly from Mark and Richard, as well as my own eyes, the false start is infinitely easier than the proper start. It comes in above, and passes up, the crux of the route. The proper start, shown in the topo as well, is way rad! Long hook runnout on dime-sized edges. If you get something the thickness of a nickle you feel like life is great! So, those 50ft whippers you took will probably be more frequent.
Being there, watching, feeling the hook placements, etc... Well, it gives me a whole new perspective on this route and, well, maybe some folks as well. Mark and Richard, first off, are stand-up guys. I think they've gotten a LOT of un-due, uncalled for sh#t over the years! The route is definitely legit. Hell, you can see that from the bottom. The first two pitches are the crux and they are definitely not rivet ladders and the hooking is definitely harder than anything I've ever seen. It would seem that maybe some jealousy over not being able to repeat the route might have something to do with the "controversy".
I have my own theories about where it stands in comparison to other hard routes on El Cap, but I'll keep that to myself, as I am by no means any hardman. Hopefully others with a lot more experience on hard routes on The Captain will step up and vouch, from their own experience, for the route... In public, as they have in private. Again, anyone thinking they have what it takes, step on up and prove it. I'd only ask that you be honest about what you find...
Cheers!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Jun 21, 2006 - 02:57pm PT
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Thanks Randy. Well, that is just what I heard from someone with a high powered scope who saw, what looked like, Pete using my rope. I would not have cared if you used it to take photos but didn't want Pete to use it to get to my high point.
Yes, I know the pitches I took is a variation of WOS, it looked like a more featured way and that's why I climbed it first. I plan on climbing the other variation as well.
What I've seen so far is a pretty impressive route up a blank face. No enhanced edges/hooks and or placements (other than rivets).
I rapped really close to the original start and thought it looked about the same difficulty as the variation, maybe a tad harder.
Cheers!!!
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Jun 21, 2006 - 02:59pm PT
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Pete,
is it true? I am not dispointed in ya, anyone even trying for new adventure should be congratulated me thinks. However, I was going to send you beer prematurely! Thanks for the update nefarious and good on ya for trying. I will just have to be your beer sponsor at a time when I can be there in person. It would be good to hear more of a report on the attempts.
Gary
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jun 21, 2006 - 03:12pm PT
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Ammon,
I definitely agree with you, and stated this while I was present. At that point no one had done anything, and I mentioned that I may give you a call to ask you if I could use your rope for some photos. I was told, "I don't think Ammon would mind..." My response was that it would be the correct thing to do (ask for permission)and that I wouldn't want anyone f&*%ing with my ropes without asking. So, did my best. =)
I didn't look too much at the variation you were on, Ammon. I spent a lot of time looking at the other side, however. I contemplated, briefly, making an attempt on, at least, the first pitch. I quickly came back to reality. I like my skin and the route is just way beyond me. There were some definite areas of free on the route that will go, but the hooking is just insane! Major props to Mark and Richard!
I'd also concur with Ammon that nothing appeared to be enhanced. I think Ammon has a good chance at doing the route. I think most will get shut down trying. It's just on a different level in some areas.
Ammon -- Send my best to Thomas, OK? Guess he won't be racing Shakespeare through the meadows any time soon again, huh? Good times. I may stop by this weekend to say "Hey" to them... Cheers, bro!
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Ben Rumsen
Social climber
No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )
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Jun 21, 2006 - 03:54pm PT
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" I will post photos. Alex and Thomas told me last night they weren't sure if it was Tommy who placed the dozens of extra bolts on Dihedral Wall. Could it have been Todd? I don't know who it was, do you? But they need to come out. When you see they photos you'll agree. It's pretty bad, mate. A once-proud aid line all drilled to hell and turned to a sport climbing clipup. " -
This is really a shame. Dihedral Wall was my first El Cap route, which I climbed in 1981. Very few people will ever be able to free this climb compared to the number that could experience climbing it like the first ascent party did. Some people seem Hell bent on doing whatever they want with no regard for traditon or history. Not only do I not look to Todd Skinner as a climbing hero, I believe he taints everything he touchs by doing things like this.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jun 21, 2006 - 04:13pm PT
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PTPP: "I will post photos."
Where *are* the photos, man?!
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
hither and yon
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Jun 21, 2006 - 04:15pm PT
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KB wrote:
"Is it true the King Swing no longer has a second penji point? "
It was gone when I did that thing in '98. I could see the scar where it ripped. I tried fiddling a manky offset in and blew it - went for a bit of a tumble.
Was a new one established after that?
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