Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 13, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
I am working on completely retooling my old free guide, but until then, below is a link to the current guide which is up to date except for two new routes put up by unknown parties to the right of Wreckage Wall. If you know who is working on these routes please ask them to get in touch with me or post here so I can get their routes in the guide!
I plan on keeping this updated and free! So any info that gets developed let me know. I plan on adding the Robbers Roost, The Bar, Shogun Boulder, and a few other odds and ends I am familiar with in the area.
The weekend thing was a compromise that either we (CRAGS) took or risk having any access pushed back for God knows how long. With the SRA and State Parks in a mess as we all are aware of, CRAGS felt that taking access in any form would advance us further down the road of full access then lobbying for full access and risking access being tied back to the development of the usage plan. Or worse, if the local management at SRA and BofRec changed, we would be reset back to zero in negotiations, which has happened several times since 2004.
The great news is the current SRA Supe is fantastic and willing to work with us. Look at the Weekend/Holiday thing as climbing access on training wheels / trial period which allows the SRA to see we are an exemplary user group that doesn't need constant hand holding. Their biggest fear is additional drain on limited resources to support climbing. Once we satisfy that concern, we are confident they will be able to negotiate 7 day access.
They have a few basic concerns, but the 2 key ones I have heard:
Ensuring people leave the Quarry at dark aka they don't camp. On weekends and holidays currently CRAGS volunteers are expected to do this.
Getting calls out to the Quarry for "climbing-related" issues whether that be injury / medical, resource protection, etc. This is extra resources that to them is "undefined". They feel they don't know how frequent / if at all, it will be needed.
If we as climbers make our presence minimally felt and follow the current restrictions, it will go along way with get full access back.
The Well is "mostly" filled in, but I think there is hope that we will eventually get access back to it once Teichert is done pushing their debris. Kilimanjaro is unaffected by the dirt moving but is behind the fence leading into the general area. Black Rhino is the one route that actually can be reached by skirting the fence on the left (legally) but quickly puts you behind the fence as the route trends left to right for the 1st pitch. The second pitch wanders back left into questionable territory. My thoughts were not to publish it and let those who know about make their own decision. I would not encourage anyone to climb Black Rhino, Swahili, or Kilimanjaro. What pains me the most is Kilimanjaro as that is an amazing route :(
Anyways, there is tons of potential for new stuff without raiding the questionable areas. Hopefully we will get access back to those routes at some point!
Yeah one of the things I am going to try and do is bring all the topos to standard format and include some picture overlays for reference. That might help with "phone navigability" (is that even a word?).
After I finish Auburn, maybe I'll include some of my other topos for Nut Tree, DTSA, Table Scraps, Mickey's Beach, Stinson's Beach, Sonora, etc.. for free.
If you were looking for any new beta on existing routes, on Landslide apparently a large block came down a bit less than half way up. Some people up there were saying it made the route harder but I found a step to the right leads to a 5.7ish mantle move that I think feels a bit harder because you are 4 or 5 feet to the right of the last bolt. Also, a bay area Meetup group was there a couple weeks ago and a couple of them pulled down a bunch of rock on creepshow...(while people were belaying nearby...). Haven't climbed it but it may be a bit different now.