I curse you, GLEE! Howl!!!

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LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
I went to the store to buy this (and only this):

Most excellent recommendation by GLEE
Most excellent recommendation by GLEE
Credit: LilaBiene












...and came home with, well, this!!!

Fiddling fodder...
Fiddling fodder...
Credit: LilaBiene

When the landlord comes looking for my rent on Friday, can I send him your way?! ;D

Thanks so much, again, GLEE, for the NH and Gunks guides -- you are incredibly thoughtful.

Here's a small reminder of how much fun there was to be had @ Facelift 2012. Looking forward to this fall already!

Amazing memories
Amazing memories
Credit: LilaBiene

MisterE

Social climber
Jan 29, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
Nice, LilaBiene!

THAT GUY! Crashed our reception in 2011 at The River House...
























with nice gifts.

He was cordial, too - not at all like the "Wedding Crashers" I had come expect from the movie.

;)
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 29, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
Bouldering Guide, Cam, nuts, draws and Ascenders.. Well, you are pretty much covering the whole spectrum of possibilities aren't ya :)
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
Now I just need to figure out what to do with them... :D
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 30, 2013 - 12:02am PT
Plenty of folks here that would love to show you how. Welcome to the dark side....there is no going back.
john hansen

climber
Jan 30, 2013 - 12:17am PT
Just find a rock with some cracks in it, and fiddle around with those small stoppers. put em in with a biner or a sling attached and pull on them from different directions. You will start figuring out how they work.

You dont even have to climb , just practice on what you can reach from the ground. Placing protection and being confident in it is one of the most important parts of climbing. You have had good teachers so far in Ken and Ed.
Just remember you have a child and you should be very careful.

Practice makes perfect.

Now you got to get a cam...

Aloha

Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
Jan 30, 2013 - 02:15am PT
Oh that insidious, glee... gotta love his treachery! Ha ha!

I remember those days of coming home from the climbing shop well... wait a minute... they still happen!

Eric
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:49am PT
Oh SH#T! Now ya gotta.... use that gear.

What's up with the ascenders? I sense something BIG is looming in your future? :-)

DMT
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:56am PT
as my ship rockets
downward neath the economic sea,
i just smile with glee,
and howl my song along
the dolphins sonic wind
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 30, 2013 - 09:20am PT
I went to the store to buy this (and only this):

...and came home with, well, this!!!

My wife hates it when I do that,
but as a rebutal I show her all the shoes in her closet!

Climb on Lila!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 30, 2013 - 10:03am PT
Go GLEE!!!
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
You guys have me in stitches!

The big something soon to be associated with my very own newly acquired ascenders is an enormous tree in my mom's backyard. I'm convinced I need to learn how to get myself out of trouble above all else...know thyself...or so it goes.

Go ahead. Laugh. :D
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jan 30, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
Laughing WITH you. Fact is, too many climbers these days don't know basic self rescue. They are 'Gonna die fer sure'.....
Getting up, getting down, moving around. You need them all.
Probably(!) make some good disco lyrics, too.
Rock on, DoltishLady. Hehe.
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
HA! LMAO, Skully!!!

It's going to be an interesting weekend...
GLee

Social climber
Missoula MT
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
Thanks for the email, Lila. Didn't lurk into this one on the Forum...

Looks as though you'll be ready for Anders/Ed (the Dark Side) & the Mad Bolter (even Darker Side), for sure!!! Chuckle, Chuckle....

Yeh, send me your rent bill!

Climb SAFE & OFTEN Audrey (& Muppet and Husband, maybe)!!

Probably a few Old Timers (i.e., Vulgarians, even though they are from NYC, THE HORROR!!) that met/knew your Dad... & would love to meet you....







PS: MisterE/JTM, I was just going to bring my gifts to the Chapel, then leave. But one thing lead to another, so I rode with Ed to El Portal for a GREAT TIME!! What a LOVELY COUPLE!! Thank You again for your understanding & my reprieve!?!?!...

GLee
tinker b

climber
the commonwealth
Feb 3, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
lilabiene
hey i am occasionally in your area. my folks live in southborough...a few miles down route nine past framingham. i am here now for a few more days and the weather looks like shite for climbing (due to extensive stays in cali i have become soft), but i will be back in the end of may.
sooo...if you are looking for a climbing partner, i am occasionally around.
peace,
j
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 3, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
You don't have nearly enough sling material (and that is relatively cheap).
Plus yer gonna need to sling those ascenders correctly (see Jello's vid).


But the stuff should have warning labels about the addictive nature of adrenaline....
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Feb 3, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Well, Lila, you've been duly warned! But as you already know, the SIDE OF LIGHT, (not to mention "The Range of Light!") will always OVERSHADOW THE DARK SIDE! (Thanks for the "Rewind..." recommendation!) I remember trips across L.A. to the Sport Chalet spending all our extra $ just as you have! Then we worked a Chouinard's Skunkworks to earn our hardware. Ahh! The addiction!!
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
There's more that I've been squirreling (as Ben so aptly phrased that!):

Modest acquisitions...thanks for the extra rope, Mouse ")
Modest acquisitions...thanks for the extra rope, Mouse ")
Credit: LilaBiene

I'm trying to avoid buying a bunch of stuff I'll never use, so I've bought a handful of things with the idea of playing around with them and trying to establish some kind of color-coordinated system and materials preferences so that I don't sink the proverbial financial boat.

GLEE: :D

tinker b: Hey, that'd be awesome!!! Weather should be better in May, though it is NE...lol.

BooDawg: Here's the thing about the dark side...I'd have to give up the Ring.

Mr. Villain: Eh-hem. Your warning is a tad LATE, don't you think?! I am SO screwed.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Feb 3, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
This made me laugh--Good on you and tough for the VISA
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 3, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
Depends. Since the cure (a crater) is worse than the disease.

The good news is that some people have lived full and satisfying lives with a climbing addiction by avoiding "the way of the gumby". Some climbers have even dabbled in gumbyism a bit and escaped unscathed,... (well OK, most of us did), but this is not advised.



But get some sling material, you don't want to be cutting up those sewn ones.

(and please, its Toker not Mr. Villain, aren't we still friends?)
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
Oh, but I liked Python R so much better! :D Just yankin' yer chain a bit...

Here's a doofus question (and for anyone that considers making fun of me, I have no fear of asking stupid questions because of the alternative to NOT asking them):

What, precisely, does "sling material" mean?

Edit:

Thank you, Ben H.! ")
Ben Harland

Gym climber
Kenora, ON
Feb 3, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
Sling material = 1 inch nylon tubular webbing. It can be bought off of rolls and cut & tied into slings or whatever you like.

http://www.rei.com/product/783605/1-military-spec-tubular-webbing

Edit: I stand corrected:)
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Feb 3, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
"Sling material" doesn't have to be tubular; it also come as flat webbing which in some applications is better than tubular.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 3, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Doesn't have to be 1" either.

I go through a lot of 9/16" special on rap anchors.
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
Bunch'a comedians you guys are! :D



Captain...or Skully

climber
Feb 3, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
They are correct though, LilaB. I mostly use 9/16 tubular for slings,though I also have a few 1 inchers, & 1/2 for tieoffs. You won't need any of the 1/2's(for a bit, anyway).
The only stupid question is the one that you don't ask.
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
Located a spot from Boston Rocks...and it's, get this, 10 mins from our apt!!! Well, I say "located"...I should say "accidentally found"... :D

Credit: LilaBiene

Credit: LilaBiene

And, yes, I'm still trying to unwind the sling material muddle.
DanaB

climber
CT
Feb 23, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Where is that cliff?
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Feb 23, 2013 - 11:20pm PT

The pic?:

Lynn Woods ?

There is tons of great granite all around the Boston area.
My Fav is all the stuff in Gloucester.
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 23, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
Glee - glad to have you. Good times...having a wedding-crasher meant the party was cool enough to crash.

Lila, I suggest starting on near-horizontal surfaces until you get used to the gear:



Apparently there's all sorts of weird rope shenanigans, helmets and hammers now.

I may have to freshen up on my skills. ;)


Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 24, 2013 - 02:11am PT
Where is that cliff?

Hammond Pond, in Newton, MA.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lower-walls/105908252

Careful - it's pretty slippery!
The rope will be handy when it's warm enough to climb. :-)

The last time I was there (way back in the day), it was with a bunch of fellow students, and I set up the ropes. But there was this one cute girl with long black hair who just started soloing up one of the faces, simply unaware of how slick it was and how quickly you can pop off. I noticed one of the strapping young lads was watching her incredulously as well. I just told him, "Go stand below her and catch her when she falls." He walked over, put his arms out, and shortly after she plunged and he caught her like it was nothing!
One of those great moments in climbing that you just can't script.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Feb 24, 2013 - 03:52am PT
Hey Lila,

So, the original Boston Rocks came with a companion volume, Boston Rolls.

Did you get a copy?

Kind of a classic. Tons of cool info on routes not included in Boston Rocks....

Like this, which would be a fine endeavor for putting all that new gear to good use:

Credit: nobody

DanaB

climber
CT
Feb 24, 2013 - 09:04am PT
I thought that was Hammond Pond, but I wasn't sure. I did a fair amount of climbing there when I lived in Melrose and malden.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 24, 2013 - 10:43am PT
West Coast Sunday morning hello, Audrey!

I hadn't seen this post until just today.

You and Muppet got that old 9 all untangled. Welcome to the spaghetti club! You know I got that from Ron Skelton via Mark Tuttle. I think Ron got it from Pettigrew who got it from Bridwell. :)

It hasn't quite got the history your Dad's rope has, but you'll make some of your own using it, I hope.

Your journey's just beginning, you know, so don't use up all your curses yet. You have a unique spot in our sport, a person being coached by some of the best in the business. I hope that the advice which you receive is taken and used by lots of others who may read these pages seeking knowledge and inspiration. It's one very good reason for the Taco's being, after all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfCqsPP3-yc
Here's a song for you, since you love the Shire. It's travelling music-- and we all want to visit and climb and pick up litter with you again when the stars conjoin in that manner...

Don't start buildering, dear. You are an officer of the court, for gosh sakes! HA!


LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
HA!!! LMAO!!! MisterE, that skit is hilarious!!! Going to have to bookmark it. After I watch it again. ;D

Clint: Thanks for the head's up about the terrain. I'm fairly wary of NE rock generally having spent much of my time during summers growing up entertaining myself on rocks above & below the tide line. It's one thing to lose your balance on such rocks, but an entirely different story when your landing involves barnacles.

Crusher: Unfortunately, there was no companion book to my edition. But that looks like a total hoot! ") I confess that I look at buildings and overpasses, etc. in a whole new way...even the muppet calls out from the back seat whenever she spies a nice, big rock! I'll have to do some digging to see if I can find a copy somewhere. When I bought the book originally, it created a problem because it didn't have a price marked -- well, I wasn't going to leave without buying the ONE thing I went in to buy in the first place (lest my excuse for stopping in go "pouf"!).

As for Hammond Pond, I'm not so sure I'd call it a "cliff", but that's probably just as well. This time of year I'd want to ski it, anyway. Sigh. We have a baaaaad case of cabin fever. Spotting the rocks yesterday was a nice boost. I guess it's as good a time as any to investigate this so-called "sling material"...or maybe we'll head out to see if we can find some rocks in Miss Peabody's woods... :D
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
Birthday spoils from the (if reluctant) hubby ")
Birthday spoils from the (if reluctant) hubby ")
Credit: LilaBiene

Fascinated by my new nifty cam...not so sure about this tubular sling material though. Seems awfully slippery. ;D

Edit: will have to fix photo when I get home - phone clearly not cooperating.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 2, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
Probably a few Old Timers (i.e., Vulgarians, even though they are from NYC, THE HORROR!!) that met/knew your Dad... & would love to meet you....

Locally, we still have myself, Claude Suhl, Dick Williams, and Al DeMaria from the VMC, all of us still climbing even if none of us live in NYC anymore. A few more retired-from-climbing Vulgarians are scattered about nearby, Art Gran, Dave Craft, Roman Sadowy to mention three. All of us were contemporaries of Dolt, but I don't know if any of us knew him personally. I didn't, but I owned a few of his marvelous pitons, which were so gorgeously crafted it seemed criminal to abuse them by actually driving them into the rock. They abide, in pristine condition, somewhere deep in the cluttered recesses of my attic.

If you come down to the Gunks, pm me and I could try to gather a few of the old folks for a meeting, or we could all go out for some climbing if you'd like---scratch up some of that shiny gear you got there.
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
rgold: Most awesome of you. I will get some more climbing experience and be in touch!

All I can say is thank freaking God for this book. Finally.
All I can say is thank freaking God for this book. Finally.
Credit: LilaBiene
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
Beautiful day in Beatown today...we went for a short hike in Miss Peabody's woods. Found a single fabulous boulder with all kinds of problems to solve without getting too far off of the ground.

Goofy
Goofy
Credit: LilaBiene

My penance for derailing the hike to scramble up the rock...

Hard labor for straying from the mission...
Hard labor for straying from the mission...
Credit: LilaBiene

Totally worth it. :D
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 28, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
rgold sent you some slang material, eh?

Tubular!

You'll not need the surfer's dictionary--you live in the wrong place.
This photo of Bill was taken by Tom Frost, and was given to us at the ...
This photo of Bill was taken by Tom Frost, and was given to us at the Oakdale Climbers Festival. It is impossible (at least at this point!) to put into words what it feels like to hold this picture in my hands.
Credit: LilaBiene
It STRUCK ME, how much alike you and Bill look. (But I couldn't locate this picture till today.)

Maybe that's his thing: He can't stand the competition!?

You'll be leading 5.8 before you know it. You will because you'll have to to keep up with Camila!


LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
A PINK (woohoo!) t-shirt with Mama's daddy's name on it!!! &#4...
A PINK (woohoo!) t-shirt with Mama's daddy's name on it!!! (Note Crusher's book, open to the pages with the picture from the Totem Pole that's been on the sofa since Saturday when she got her first pair of rock climbing shoes...) :D
Credit: LilaBiene

The muppet donning her wonderful "surprise" in the mail from GLee. She put it on every night last week when she got home from school. Well, that, and her glass slippers. ;D

Mouse, you know you're absolutely right...she's out on our porch doing donuts @ the moment. I'd better go make sure she's not rapping off of the railing...

:D

P.S. GLee, she LOVED getting the postcard, too!!! Thank you so much.
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
Ooooooooo! And I almost forgot to post a picture of my latest foray into the dark side...

FrostWorks...aren't they beautiful?!
FrostWorks...aren't they beautiful?!
Credit: LilaBiene

The kind folks at Mountain Tools shipped 'em straight to my door. ")
Gene

climber
May 12, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
That pink T shirt picture made my day.

g
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
The muppet was on the rope today for the first time @ the rock wall @ our Y. She was grinning ear to ear pushing off of the wall & swinging...big appreciation to Ryan from Maine @ the wall for making her 1st experience stellar. I have no pictures, but will never forget the pure joy radiating from her eyes.

I'm not going to further humiliate myself by letting on exactly how long it took me to tie my 1st double fisherman's knot (eh-hem), but I did manage to get some equipment slung...finally.

At least I hope they're double fisherman's?!!
At least I hope they're double fisherman's?!!
Credit: LilaBiene

We were disappointed to miss the infamous GLee @ the Gunks this weekend, but are looking forward to the Facelift!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 1, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
Sounds like a great day! and yes those are perfectly tied double fishermans with proper length on the tails.

Perhaps the most complicated knot commonly used in climbing.
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
What a hoot!
What a hoot!
Credit: LilaBiene

Finally got my paws on the original "Boston Rocks" and its companion..."Boston Rolls". Total riot!!!

Lest I inadvertently violate the forum's posting policies, I refrained from posting the cover.

;D

Countdown to last day of work (for the foreseeable future): 5

Time to scratch up my embarrassingly shiny hardware!
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
"Graduated" from the Boston AMC ' S Spring Rock Climbing course a couple of weekends ago, so am eligible to participate in a trip to the...

Arrived a while back courtesy of the one and only most excellent GLee!
Arrived a while back courtesy of the one and only most excellent GLee!
Credit: LilaBiene

Woohoo!!!

It's pouring buckets there tonight, but we're headed down @ the crack of dawn tomorrow morning for two glorious days of climbing. And thanks to GLee, I have some excellent reading material for the trip!!!

Me & the muppet last weekend @ Blue Hills...why, yes, that would happe...
Me & the muppet last weekend @ Blue Hills...why, yes, that would happen to be my climbing program graduation t-shirt... :D
Credit: LilaBiene

Package containing latest damage to bank account arrived just in time - lol. I am now the proud owner of a RURP and some beak - type things, some rap rings, a nifty DMM offset and a bunch more stuff I won't confess to unless tortured. ")

Now, how to sleep tonight...

Edit: stupid auto-correct.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 16, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
"...now, how to sleep tonight"

some advice after many years of anxious non-sleeping before climbs. First, experience helps... but what helped more was the idea that just laying down and physically resting helps your body get ready for exertion, whether you sleep or not. And the fact that rock climbing isn't a hugely intellectual challenge requiring your brain be tuned-to-a-tee and ready to perform at a high level. In fact, it's usually just the opposite, your brain is along for the ride.... oh hum.

the point is you're resting what you should be resting. Don't worry about it.

Once I realized that, i stopped being anxious and ever after had no problem sleeping. So don't worry about actually sleeping, just get the rest your body needs for climbing.

let everything else take its course.
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 10:12pm PT
It's the excitement that's killing me, Ed. I'm SO excited I can't stand it. :D

I'm fiddling with gear instead of staring at the ceiling...

GLee

Social climber
MSO
May 17, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
We're all hoping you'll let the muppet drag you up FOOPS, or maybe High E, at least!!!!

;-D

(Well, maybe it's just me.....)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
May 17, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
Audrey- So cool to see you follow in your dad's footsteps so many years later.

A word of caution about omega pacific link cams. You might have been told this already but they are prone to failure if they are not placed properly. I have a double set and i love them, but i don't place them in bottomed out pockets where the back of the axle will rotate into the rock and break the axle. I also avoid horizontal placements so the stem will not lever against the axle but others have told me this might actually catch a fall. I still prefer a normal cam (bd, metolious, wild country) for this application.

Here is the omega pacific warning on the subject
Be sure to anticipate direction of load, should you fall or weight the cam. This is particularly important with Link Cams, due to their unique construction. Since they are built using trisected cam lobes, Link Cams can become damaged%u2014and the placement may fail%u2014if a load is placed that makes the cam "shift" when a climber falls onto it. We are constantly researching ways to improve the strength and durability of Link Cams, but it is critical that Link Cams be placed with direction of load in mind. You should always place any removable protection with this principle in mind, of course, but Link Cams in particular should be placed so that the stem is aimed directly toward the ground and, when loaded, the position of the axle does not rotate during a fall or when bounce-testing. Although Link Cams' flexible stems can help "correct" a less-than-ideal placement, it is still important that the initial placement be made in proper alignment with anticipated load.
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
Mike, thanks so much for the info -- I wasn't aware of this specifically, so I really appreciate you making the effort to both point it out and explain it to me as a n00b. ")

It was awesome meeting you and Sandra at Facelift!!!
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