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Conrad
climber
MT
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Let's hope Karen and Sue amble into base camp with a good story and that they haven't been lost to the mountain.
Foraker is a dangerous mountain with a fair amount objective hazard. Sue is a fun and motivated climber.
I hope they are with us.
Conrad
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2006 - 02:10am PT
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I dont know either one of these two. I thought people around here might, and would like to know. Hopin for the best.
Alex
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Oh man, this is not good. Especially after what was in the Vail article and the NPS about finding gear at the base. Let hope this is just an aw sh#t of dropped pack. I meet Sue and Karen after our attempt on the Spur in 04. They had just come down off of the Cassin. They were pretty tired but doing their thing and seemed no worse for the wear considering what they hung out in while on the route. They certainly have their head about themselves on the mtn. Sue and John are super nice folks - they get out have and fun.
BTW - while I chatted with Sue about the Cassin she notted that part of their slowness was due to some unclear info Colby's book on the Cassin. My partner and I both laughed as the day before we had noted the same thing about his discription. That said the Joe's Supertopo discription of the Cassin is spot on and is exactly like I remember it. Especially because they did the route three weeks after we did and still found our platforms.
Here is a related rescue off of Hunter
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Regarding the Sue Nott and Karen McNeill epic on Foraker I'm in touch with people who know the facts and the facts are that as of 8am this morning there were tracks above 16,000 feet on the Infinate Spur. The park service hasn't been able to make any real search efforts from the air due to high winds but the visability is clear and hence the tracks were clearly seen. From this high point it is possible to descent on any number of routes the most likely being Sultana Ridge which they haven't searched yet. No one is presently on the Sultana. Right now the park service is taking John Varco and another concerned climber for a search an rescue ride.
Let's hope the winds have died down enough where they'll have some good news. These are two tough ladies and if anyone can pull through it will be them. WEather forecast is for clear weather today and into tomorrow. I'll post more as I learn more.
Jack
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Lets hope for fresh tracks and good weather and conditions!
-Brian in SLC
(0 for 2 on Foraker)
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2006 - 12:50pm PT
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Thanks Jack.
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Damn...I knew Sue briefly. Seemed to be a real fine woman. And talk about "tough," To get back on the ice the way she did after that big chunk fell on her.
Lets hope some good news comes out soon.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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regards Sue and Karen,
It's 4:15pm and the latest I know isn't much different than earlier. Attempts at flying the Puma above Foraker this afternoon have again been hampered due to high winds. Darryl Miller, McKinley park superintendant and the person in charge of the rescue effort, has informed me that they are going to continue in their efforts to locate Sue and Karen. Mark Westman and John Varco both continue to go up in the Puma in the chance that the helicopter can land and they can maybe get out and make a close inspection.
The latest thinking is that Sue and Karen were planning on descending the Sultana Ridge. Sue is familar with the route and it is the most logical, safest and fastest way off the mountain. The park service is going to focus their efforts on this part of the mountain right now. The big concern is that Sue and Karen have been up on the route now for over 23 days with only about 8-10 gas cartridges. They most likely have been out of fuel and food for awhile. The contents of the pack and the pack that were found in the deposition zone by the ridge have been identified positively as Sue's. It's a good sign that tracks were seen above the last bivouac site and that the major difficulties lay below. Above 16,000 the snow slopes are lower angle with no major obstacles. Everyone is still hoping that they are on the descent and have just been pinned down due to high winds and low energy.
That's all for the moment.
Jack
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Jack, what do they have in their possession right now...that you know of?
Thanks for any info...I am concerned about Sue.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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We're not really sure how much gear they left with. We are sure that in their possession now there is a single wall tent, a stove, maybe a sleeping bag, etc. About what one person would normaly take in an alpine ascent of the Infinite Spur. Unfortunately Sue's sleeping bag and extra clothing was in her pack that was lost.
In the weather that has scrapped the mountain for the past five days they may just have hunkered down in a cave until the weather improved. I'll know more tomorrow morning. Right now not much can be done for them. Send some good energy.
Jack
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I met Sue a few times (mostly in the designator ampitheatre)when I lived in Vail. I'm thinking good thoughts.
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roslyn
Trad climber
washington
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bump
any news?
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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This is the latest I've found on the NPS site. It is starting to look very sad.
press release
Office of the Superintendent . Denali National Park, AK 99755 . www.nps.gov/dena
Contact: Kris Fister For Immediate Release
(907) 733-9103 Date: June 5, 2006
No Significant Clues Found in Fifth Day of Search for Missing Climbers
A fifth day of aerial searching for climbers Karen McNeill and Sue Nott turned up no new clues as to their location, in spite of excellent visibility and flying conditions. Clear skies and calm winds allowed personnel in the NPS-contracted high-altitude Lama helicopter and the park’s Husky airplane to thoroughly investigate the area in the vicinity of the Foraker summit, the climbing team’s planned exit route on the Sultana Ridge and the glaciers north and south of the peak. The team on the Lama was able to confirm the presence of tracks at the 15,500-15,800 foot elevation on Foraker, but could see no tracks going toward the summit. Searchers on the Lama also checked the area at the base of the avalanche chute where Nott’s backpack and some of its contents had been discovered during previous days’ search efforts, but no new items were seen.
New aerial resources will be involved in tomorrow’s activities, as the Lama helicopter will not be available due to a required rest period for the pilot. Two Chinook helicopters from Company B, 1 st Battalion, 52 nd Aviation Regiment’s High Altitude Rescue Team based at Fort Wainwright and an Aerostar from ERA will be utilized to carry out the continued search of high probability areas.
A weak weather front is forecast to enter the area on Tuesday, bringing with it clouds, increased winds and a chance of snow at the higher elevations.
McNeill, age 37 of Canmore, Alberta, Canada and Nott, age 36 of Vail, Colorado left the base camp at the 7,200’ elevation on Mt. McKinley on May 12 and began their climb of the Infinite Spur on May 14. Both are highly skilled technical climbers, with years of experience in the Alaska Range.
-NPS-
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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There's always hope.
Thoughts.
H.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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To very one concerned:
I can't shed much more light on the situation. The park is still trying to get a helicoptter into the air and continue the search. From what I've been told there isn't much more information on Sue or Karen. Time is their enemy now. time and the weather.
Let's hope for the best. I'll continue posting when I find out more information.
Jack
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kevelyn
Ice climber
Long Valley,NJ
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I had the pleasure of meeting Karen on a Chicks with Picks climb in New Hampshire. She is one tough cookie, and has returned from many a wicked high place...I hope and pray that she and Sue will return home safe to us.
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Tom M
climber
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http://www.nps.gov/dena/home/news/index.htm
Latest news has been posted
Date: June 6, 2006
10:00am
New Tracks Shift Focus of Search for Missing Climbers on Foraker
The verification of new track sightings at the 16,400’ elevation on Mount Foraker was confirmed Monday evening when search personnel were able to closely analyze digital photographs that were taken from the NPS-contracted high-altitude Lama during yesterday’s search operations.
This new discovery has shifted today’s search efforts for Karen McNeill and Sue Nott to focus on the area just below the south summit of Foraker. Two Chinook helicopters from Company B, 1 st Battalion, 52 nd Aviation Regiment based at Fort Wainwright are expected in Talkeetna by late morning, and will be utilized for today’s search effort. An Aerostar helicopter from ERA Helicopter Division is already on site and will be used initially to remove the team of observers from a camp near the base of Mount Foraker.
Flying conditions are good this morning, as it is mostly clear and winds are calm. A layer of overcast at 11,000 feet is not expected to seriously impede search activity. The forecast is for increasing clouds, with a chance of snow.
Additional information will be provided when it becomes available, or at the end of today’s operational period.
-NPS-
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Best wishes that they are safe.
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danika
Trad climber
Ridgway
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Come on now, stay positive. They are some tough women. The news that they saw footprints at 16,500' is good news... they made it up the tough stuff - even without some gear. Hopefully they are cozy, snug is some cave/hole and waiting for the winds to die down. Let's just hope they can keep their wits about them and make good decisions. Little food, water and wind can make even the best of us loose our minds.
Stay positive - for their sake.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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It's 6:30pm and the latest is that the park service couldn't get the helicopters up high enough today to see anything. Not much has changed. It seems pretty obvious by the condition of the pack that was found that it was blown off the mountain. Sue might have just put it outside the tent when they were preparing to leave their bivvy site. By now it's the searchers opinion that Sue and Karen's tracks were definately seen as high as 16,500. By magnifying the images the park service have taken the tracks are obvious postholing but then the tracks stop. The winds have been about 60mph at 14,000 feet and probably much higher above that elevation. Sue and Karen might have gotten into a crevasse and be hunkered down or they might have dug a cave and be waiting. It's so hard to tell right now. The choppers are at the ready and the search will resume later tonight if the weather clears or tomorrow again. Again, I'll continue posting as I hear more news. Sue's mom Eve has left for Alaska this evening.
Jack
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Thanks Jack.
My thoughts are that they will make it back with a great tale to tell.
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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the best of luck to the 2 fine ladies!
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Baldwin Park, Calif.
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Lets hope for the best and with a little luck they will back safe.
Tony
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Prayers for these two, the folks who love them, and for those who are searching for them.
-Kate.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Hey Kevelyn ,do you know a jennifer or jen.c or JR from chicks with picks events?
From GA?
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jeff benowitz
climber
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did the park service drop any food, fuel, and radio caches when they were searching? would really increase chances of survival.
The descent route is casual-been down it twice-once solo in a whiteout-out of fuel and food during the solo gig, standard epic fare. just a wondering out loud.
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climbski
Mountain climber
Anchorage Ak
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I have never seen NPS drop supplies randomly during rescues. I would doubt hey have in this case. They only drop if victims are located and inaccesable.
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Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
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From this morning's NPS morning report, not really much new information, but it sounds like tracks at 16,400 ft are helping focus the search:
"Concern for two overdue climbers on the challenging Infinite Spur route on Mt. Foraker prompted the park to begin a search for them on the evening of Thursday, June 1st. These concerns were based on information gathered about the climbers anticipated time on the route and the supplies they had with them. The NPS high-altitude Lama helicopter was launched for a reconnaissance flight when weather cleared Thursday evening, following several days of heavy snow in the Alaska Range. No signs of the climbers, a 37-year-old Canadian woman and a 36-year-old woman from Colorado, were found during that flight. Flights continued on Friday and Saturday and were also fruitless, though observers did spot a backpack and some its contents at the base of the route. The gear appeared to have fallen from a higher elevation. The backpack was retrieved by a hydraulic ˜grabber" suspended below the Lama. The weather over the mountain cleared on Sunday, allowing aerial searchers to make the first complete survey of the Infinite Spur route since the search began. Although neither climber was seen, searchers found additional gear, including a jacket, stuff sack and a glove near the spot where the backpack had been found and recovered. Based on equipment descriptions provided by one of the climber's friends, it's believed that all of the gear belonged to her. Observers on board the Lama also got a better look at tracks found at the 14,800-foot level of the Infinite Spur and are confident that they belong to the two women. Additional tracks were seen between the 15,500-foot and 15,800-foot elevations on the route. Clear skies and calm winds on Monday allowed personnel in the Lama to thoroughly investigate the area in the vicinity of the summit of Mt. Foraker, the climbing team's planned exit route on Sultana Ridge, and the glaciers north and south of the peak. The tracks spotted on Sunday were confirmed. On Tuesday, the Lama did not fly due to a required rest period for the pilot. Replacing it were two Chinook helicopters from the 52nd Aviation Regiment's high altitude rescue team, based at Fort Wainwright, and an Aerostar from ERA Helicopter Division. Analysis of digital photos taken from the Lama during its Monday flight confirmed tracks at 16,400 feet, so plans were to focus Tuesday's search efforts on the area just below the south summit of Mt. Foraker. Further updates will be posted as they are received. The two missing women are both highly skilled technical climbers with years of experience in the Alaska Range."
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jeff benowitz
climber
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Been wondering about this myself-ie seemed the pack was dropped from a low elevation because of its landing spot, which isn't sience, but with the combined observation of the pack's condition is of note.
Searchers still hold out hope for climbers
FORAKER: Missing women might have descended by another route, ranger says.
By PETER PORCO
Anchorage Daily News
Published: June 7, 2006
Last Modified: June 7, 2006 at 02:55 AM
Conflicting clues found in recent days on Mount Foraker in Denali National Park have dumbfounded rangers and others searching for two women climbers overdue more than a week.
Tracks found Monday high on the peak and discovery last week of a backpack on avalanche debris low on the route have led to both pessimism and hopeful speculation about what happened to American Sue Nott and Canadian Karen McNeill.
The findings along Foraker's Infinite Spur route could mean that Nott, 36, and McNeill, 37, said to be top-rank mountaineers, could be alive somewhere high on the mountain.
The Infinite Spur, a steep spine of rock, snow and ice that demands the highest degree of technical climbing, arcs upward through the middle of 17,400-foot Foraker's south face.
Searchers Tuesday continued looking in helicopters close to the south face for the sixth day in a row without a hint of where the women might be, according to the National Park Service.
They had hoped to search the summit thoroughly but had to withdraw when clouds closed in late in the day, said Denali Park spokeswoman Kris Fister. Weather permitting, the search will resume today.
The pair started their climb May 14. They told friends they expected to be finished by about May 24. When they were not spotted in routine fly-overs on May 29 and 30, their friends and rangers became concerned, Fister said.
Over the past six days, searchers found some signs of the climbers; park rangers in Talkeetna and other mountaineers have analyzed them for indications of what might have befallen the pair, said Daryl Miller, the park's South District ranger.
Nott's backpack, for example, was discovered late last week on a pile of avalanche debris near 8,000 feet elevation in a glacial basin at the base of the Infinite Spur. Other camping gear -- a sleeping bag, a jacket, a small sack -- was strewn over the pile within 200 feet of the pack.
The crew aboard a LAMA high-altitude rescue helicopter used a hydraulic claw to pluck the pack off the debris field. They did not retrieve any of the other gear, rangers said.
The pack offered evidence that it had not been attached to Nott or McNeill when it apparently was taken down by an avalanche, Miller said.
"The waist-strap buckle was unbuckled -- it was not broken," Miller said Tuesday. "If there was a (climber's) fall, typically that clip would have been ripped off. Both the buckles of the chest strap and the waist strap were unbroken and open."
Miller conceded that a lost backpack, as well as an invaluable item like a sleeping bag, boded ill for the outcome.
"That's telltale," he said. Even if the pack had not been attached to a person, "it's still worrisome we found that pack, especially with a sleeping bag. You can't dismiss it. It probably compromised not only their warmth and sleeping, but ... it could have contained fuel canisters as well." Without fuel, the women could not melt snow for water.
The pack's bottom was torn but the tear was relatively minor, Miller said. Although Miller has seen packs that have fallen a long distance and sustained surprisingly little damage, the consensus of rangers and climbers, he said, was that Nott's pack had fallen from a relatively low elevation not long after she and McNeill had begun their ascent.
That scenario was based on the other set of clues -- the women's tracks, found near 15,800 feet and also, on Monday, at 16,400 feet, 1,000 feet below the summit.
The tracks encourage hope, Miller said, that the women lost the pack to a fall when setting it aside. Afterward, the climbers may have felt it was safer to go up the route and down the mountain in another direction than to climb down the Spur.
"It's uncertain why they continued on," Miller said. "Maybe they felt that up and over was less damaging than descent. The route is so difficult to begin with. It's very committing -- you have to make a decision (to go on rather than retreat)."
Foraker and nearby mountains were raked with strong winds between May 24 and May 29, according to Miller.
"We feel they were headed up during this wind event that took place over four to five days. ... If they climbed higher, to try to get out of the wind ... they might have found a small (crevasse to hide in) or accidentally fell into a crevasse. We don't know."
Miller said the searchers have not ruled out the possibility the women were swept away by an avalanche.
"The reason we think that's less (likely) is because the tracks are very obvious -- nobody's been on that route for two years," he said. "We believe personally some of those tracks would have been wiped out with an avalanche. It's a sign of hope when you see tracks that high."
The question, Miller said, therefore remains: Why aren't one or both of the women coming out of whatever snow cave or crevasse they're hunkered down in to wave at the passing helicopter?
About 10 years ago, a Polish climber spent days taking shelter in a crevasse at about 19,700 feet on McKinley. When weather allowed a helicopter to fly by, he got out and waved.
"We're not sure why they don't come out and wave," Miller said. "It's very worrisome."
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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The descent route is casual-been down it twice-once solo in a whiteout-out of fuel and food during the solo gig, standard epic fare. just a wondering out loud.
Apparently wasn't casual last season, at least according to folks that came down it. Only 4 folks topped out, and, all via the Talkeetna Spur (bailing off the Infinite Spur). They reported that coming down the Sultana was pretty adult (or worse). Sue would have known that, since she and John were two of the four. I got a good look at it last season, and, it looked really spicey (a ton of low angle blue water up higher, and mushy meltout crap below).
Which, given that its a fair piece over to the true summit from the south summit, makes me wonder if they traversed over to the SE Ridge for the descent (which used to be the standard descent, but, was not so good for the bros a couple years back, eeek). Or, maybe tried to bail down somewhere between the French Ridge (ugh, that thing looks hairball!) and the SE Ridge. Speculation. Ugh.
Still holding out hope...keepin' the fingers crossed...
-Brian in SLC
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jsavage
climber
Bishop, CA
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I want to add my hope to those wishing for the best. I had the pleasure of meeting Sue in '98 or '99 at an OR show. She was easy to talk to. I've been impressed as I've watched her resume grow. I'm sure Karen is the same. Very best wishes on the outcome.
Jim
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jeff benowitz
climber
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true enough, haven't been on it since 96 when i was eating your brownies...
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Couloir
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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bump...anyone heard anything new?
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Nothing new has been posted today on the parks web site.
Still keep all digits crossed.
H.
p.s: I'll post as soon as I hear anything as I hope others will too.
H.
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Just this minute posted:
"Date: June 6, 2006
6:30pm
Weather Prevents Summit Search Effort
Although the day began with mostly clear conditions, by early afternoon clouds had shrouded areas on Mount Foraker above 16,000 feet, preventing the aerial search of the peak’s south summit area that had been planned. An Aerostar helicopter from ERA’s Helicopter Division was utilized to search areas below 13,000 feet, which included the pile of avalanche debris where Sue Nott’s pack and other miscellaneous gear items were found last Friday. No new items were seen during today’s search.
The area below the south summit of Mount Foraker became a high priority search zone this morning due to the discovery of new tracks at the 16,400’ elevation late yesterday. This is the highest point on the peak where signs of the Karen McNeill and Sue Nott have been located. Searchers theorize that the two elite mountaineers may have purposely burrowed themselves into a sheltered spot such as a crevasse in order to reduce their exposure to the wind and cold.
Two Chinook helicopters from Company B, 1st Battalion, 52 nd Aviation Regiment at Fort Wainwright arrived in Talkeetna by late morning, and flew to base camp at the 7,200 foot elevation on Mt. McKinley to off-load 800 gallons of fuel for the NPS-contract high-altitude Lama helicopter. The ships attempted to search the summit, but were turned back due to the cloud cover.
The search of the area below the south summit remains the incident’s highest priority. Search efforts will continue until the areas of highest probability have been searched as thoroughly as possible, contingent on weather and other factors.
McNeill, age 37 of Canmore, Alberta, Canada and Nott, age 36 of Vail, Colorado were last seen when they began their climb of the Infinite Spur on May 14. The route is of the highest degree of difficulty in the Alaska grading system, rated as Grade 6. Both women are highly skilled technical climbers, with years of experience in the Alaska Range.
-NPS- "
Howie.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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I apologize for such a loat posting but there really has not been any new information and looking between the lines takes a little time.
Nothing new has been discovered. It's pretty certain that Sue and Karen reached a point where they could descend the Sultana Ridge. From their high point to 15,400 can be riddled with crevasses and if the weather was nasty they might have looked for shelter in one of these. The park service theorize that they may have summitted on the 28th or so of May in which case they would have been up there for ten days. It's impossible to say what has happened.
The weather forcast for the next five days is not good. High winds and snow is predicted and it is unlikely that helicopters will be able to go up and search. People responsible for the rescue are very experienced climbers and they are not very optimistic. It truly will be a miracle if sue and Karen emerge from this.
Jack
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10b4me
Trad climber
Poserville
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hopefully, they will make it out alive.
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wikbat
Social climber
New Zealand
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My thoughts are with Karen's Parents, sister, two brothers and their families who are in New Zealand waiting for any small piece of information that they can get. It must be extremely hard being so far away. Karen's parents and sister leave New Zealand tomorrow for the long journey to hopefully find some better news.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Hoping for the best.
Bump.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Yep, still hoping they find them....
Bad stretch of weather coming up, it appears...ugh...
-Brian in SLC
...ABOVE 14,000 FT...
.THURSDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY. CHANCE OF SNOW.
HIGH AT 17,000 FT...ZERO.
WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST 30 TO 40 MPH.
.THURSDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY. CHANCE OF SNOW.
LOW AT 17,000 FT...15 BELOW.
WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST 35 TO 45 MPH.
.FRIDAY...CLOUDY. SNOW LIKELY.
HIGH AT 17,000 FT...5 ABOVE.
WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST 45 TO 55 MPH.
.OUTLOOK SATURDAY THROUGH MONDAY...
.SATURDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY. CHANCE OF SNOW. SUMMIT WINDS
SOUTH 50 TO 60 MPH.
.SUNDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY. SUMMIT WINDS SOUTH 55 TO 65 MPH.
.MONDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY. CHANCE OF SNOW. SUMMIT WINDS
SOUTH 35 TO 45 MPH.
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jeff benowitz
climber
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Has anyone looked on the northside? just a thought. got chased onto that side by the wind when I climbed the hill back in 92. The orginal route would be a quick way to get down to running water...
oh was just informed they searched the north side
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abg
Sport climber
Berkeley, CA
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bump
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spartacus
Ice climber
juneau ak
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couple thoughts: i'm not too worried about the time frame yet. was on mt fairweather 33 days. yes they are behind the schedule they set but they may be going slow sharing fuel food, clothes. the fact they havent been seen may mean they are climbing at night. we were on the pink panther a few years ago and avalanche, rock and ice fall was so bad we mostly had to move at night. the fact they havent came out of their caves after hearing a copper might be a bad sign but over the last few days they may have simply been too high up the mountain... as they make their way down they will become more visible.
i met karen a few years ago in canmore doing some mixed climbing at haffner falls. she is the sweetest sweetest person i have ever met in this sport.. many in her group had a stick up their butt such as AW. but she totally was the a sweetest cutest friendest person you could imagine. i hope to see her sparkling face again someday.. one last thing... "To the Brave and Faithful, Nothing is Impossible" dont count them out yet....
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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From today's NPS report:
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Clouds Impact Today’s Search Operations for Missing Foraker Climbers
Low clouds have prevented any aerial search effort so far today. The pilot of the NPS-contract high-altitude Lama will remain on call until 9:00 p.m. tonight in case a window of opportunity presents itself, but the weather report and current conditions are not favorable.
Searching the area below the south summit of Mount Foraker remains the incident’s highest priority, due to the presence of tracks at the 16,400’ elevation. This is the highest point on the peak where signs of the climbers have been seen. Plans are being made to continue search efforts tomorrow, weather permitting, in order to investigate the summit as thoroughly as possible for any sign of the climbers.
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I'm praying harder than ever....
Mal
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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I can't add any new information to what has already been posted. Looks like we're all getting the information from the same source which is good. Let's just hope that the weather opens just enough for a chopper to fly in an check out the scene. I'm still hoping and praying that Sue and Karen make it out. No one has given up hope yet. The park service got a Navaho over the summit today but didn't find anything new. They will continue the search tomorrow.
Jack
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Mike Libecki
climber
the moment of now
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I just got off the phone with John Varco, he is up there with the families and receiving amazing support from so many people.
Sue are Karen are wonderful women, strong in every way, and full of enthusiasm and laughter.
I hope they somehow appear.
John filled in the details and is his information looks like the very last thread of hope is for an appearance this weekend.
Words, we all know there are no words, and it is what it is.
I have no choice but for hope.
My best energy and thoughts for a miracle.
Silence and hope from here.
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minimurr
Trad climber
Bar Harbor, Maine
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i agree. my heart sank when i saw this get shuffled down the line. keep them in your prayers...miracles can happen.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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I can't imagine what it might be like for a family member waiting for news in a situation like this. I suspect only those that have been through it really understand.
Let's keep hoping that there is some good news soon.
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Ouch!
climber
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Saw on the news where some dude from Bellingham rescued two New Zealand women off the mountain.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Mike,
Was that you on Fox News this morning?
Juan
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tetris
climber
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Sadly enough, that rescue is not related to Sue and Karen.
After seeing the post I called out to Talkeetna, which they confirmed them still missing. The weather system of white out conditions near the summit is expected to last another 24-36 hrs. They are doing all they can under the circumstances.
Keep sending positive vibes their way!
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Ouch!
climber
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It appears the news report I saw had the two situations mixed up. Guess they made assumptions.
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heidi
Ice climber
chamonix/london
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Hi. anyone heard anything at all? jack?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Remember that people have survived a lot longer than a week without food. Anything's possible if they have a snow cave.
JL
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Nothing has been reported.
I'm guessing that the cloud cover/weather is still not good enough to put an aircraft up.
Let's all hope a good weather window opens up soon.
Still thinking positive.
H.
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heidi
Ice climber
chamonix/london
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thanks for giving us a little hope, I guess a week late isn't necessarily as terrible as it sounds. Has anyone been out in similar conditions without feul and food? They are very strong people, mentally and physically...
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Lizzy forwarded this to me and I thout it appropriate to post here.
Mal
-----------------------------------------------------
Anna Kealing asked me to forward this note along to all climbers. They wish "to present a united front of hope yet realism" to the climbing community.
Cheers, Lizzy
-----------------------------------------------------
We are extremely concerned for our good friend, Karen McNeill, a 37-year-old New Zealander, who has lived in Alberta, Canada, for many years. She and her partner, Sue Nott, 36, of Vail, Colorado, are missing on Mt. Foraker (17,400), Denali National Park, Alaska.
The women are almost two weeks overdue from an expedition on the 9000-foot Infinite Spur. They set off on the climb on May 14, expecting to take 10 days on the route, but with food and fuel for 14 days. We believe they could eke these supplies out for one additional week.
Denali National Park personnel became concerned on May 28 when the two had not returned and started a search on June 1.
Bad weather hindered the first three days of the search.
A backpack set up for hauling, radio, and items of clothing, which appeared to have fallen a long distance, were found near the base of the mountain.
Footprints belonging to the pair were found at about 16,400 feet, close to the south summit, thus confirming that the pair had made it past the most difficult climbing on the route.
Karen is acknowledged as a world-class mountaineer who specializes in making first ascents of remote, difficult peaks. Over the past decade she has climbed as far afield as Greenland, China, India, Peru, and Patagonia, and has made several successful climbs in Alaska in recent years. She and Sue made the first female ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali in 2004.
As friends, climbing partners and a sisterhood of Chicks with Picks guides with Karen, we have not given up hope. To quote some of those who know her:
“If anyone could make it through an ordeal on the Infinite Spur on Mt.
Foraker, Sue and Karen have the wherewithal, know-how, and skill to come back alive.”
“Karen was already talking about this expedition a year and a half ago to me while we were in Patagonia. (Her) mountain sense is what makes her such a good alpinist. (She can feel change in the weather by how the air feels on her cheeks!) Karen's specialty is planning expeditions, so this one would have been very well thought out and prepared for. Karen and Sue, both probably America's most celebrated and respected female alpinists, have a lot of experience climbing in the Alaska Range. Sue was climbing around Basecamp before they headed to Foraker, so she was familiar with this year's snow conditions.”
“What we know is our two climbers, Sue and Karen, are among the best and have more courage, more strength, and more ability than most. This is reflected in their commitment and their willingness to begin that which most will never attempt.”
We still hold hope that our bubbly and vivacious, yet astonishingly tough friends will emerge from a snow cave high on the mountain. If it comes to the worst, then we will celebrate the lives of two women who were not afraid to commit themselves to their dreams and live their lives to the utmost.
Our hearts go out to their families and partners and all their many friends around the world.
Kitty Calhoun, Kim Csizmazia, Mattie Sheafor, Jen Grimes, Anna Keeling, Amy Bullard, Carolyn Parker, Kim Reynolds, Angela Hawse, Kathy Cosley
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Thanks for posting that malady.
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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I traversed around Mount Shasta for 3.5 days above the tree line in January without a stove or fuel, to see how difficult it would be to eat snow for all of my water. I carried ready to eat dry food. I had to keep my mouth stuffed with snow about 10 hrs a day to melt enough to keep hydrated, so it's doable but not pleasant. I didn't chew or eat the snow, but just held it in my mouth, beathing over it, allowing the heat of my expelled breath to melt it. At rest in a snow cave one would need far less as most of the moisture loss is thru breathing hard (if you prevent sweating by shedding layers so that you are always rather cool).
People have gone without eating for more than 6 weeks and survived. So it's very likely, that holed up in a snow cave, Karen and Sue could be very alive.
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kjclimbing
Trad climber
Park City, Utah
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thanks for the continued updates. holding out hope for these two
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Jun 10, 2006 - 03:39am PT
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Even the feeble glow of a flashlite or headlamp is picked up by a night vision scope as a blazing beacon on a dark night. They may be unable to effectively signal an aircraft in the day but at night they surely could if the search craft had night vision capability.
(Garnered from accounts of coast guard nighttime searches for people lost at sea.)
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Sara Matisse
Mountain climber
Northridge, CA
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Jun 10, 2006 - 08:21am PT
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You are correct that light can be seen. But, in Alaska this time of year it does not get dark.
My hope is still strong that these women will make it through, and my thoughts go out to their family and friends.
These are such strong women, who are obviously pushing the envelope, pursuing their dreams, and living lives that make me proud to be a woman in the sport.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jun 10, 2006 - 09:13am PT
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To everyone concerned.
I spoke with Darryl Miller last night and unfortunately he had nothing new or encouraging to add. I'd really like to remain optimistic but it seems unrealistic to expect that Sue and Karen could withstand the prolonged period of bad weather and high winds that have plagued Foraker. As tough as they have been in the past and as experienced as they are it just seems that this time they might have gone on their last climb together. Sue's mom has left Talkeetna and is flying back to Colorado. I think Karen's folks are still in Alaska. Varco is still on the glacier or in Talkeetna. Everyone is pretty upset and devistated by what has happened. A memorial is planned but I'm not sure exactly what the date is. It's all very sad and unbelievable.
Jack
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Jun 10, 2006 - 12:11pm PT
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People have been lost at altitude for longer periods of time and survived. Unrealistic as it may be, i hold out hope that these climbers will make it back.
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darod
Trad climber
New York
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Jun 10, 2006 - 02:30pm PT
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haven't lost hope for these two strong ladies, but if the worse is true, it sucks bad....
my deepest sympathy to their families and friends....
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Margo Talbot
Ice climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 10, 2006 - 03:27pm PT
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We are praying for a miracle even as we plan Karen's memorial. If we have jumped the gun it will all seem very funny. If not, we will be ready to celebrate the life of a woman who followed her dreams.
I will keep you posted on the details as they are decided upon.
Margo Talbot
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spartacus
Ice climber
juneau ak
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Jun 10, 2006 - 03:29pm PT
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its a little premature to be speculating on their demise... i personally think its better to speculate how they might be surviving. i know im sounding overly optimistic but all of us know of greater come from behind survival stories... and yes if they survive this it will rank as one of the greatest. but a couple more things to consider: it looks from the evidence so far... they lost some gear lower down but continued on... even if they were past the point of no return and forced up i think its a still a good sign and the reason being: their experience and size matters. all things being equal.. down to one pack and one sleeping bag it wouldnt be as hard for them to dig smaller snow caves, better share the one sleeping bag in that both would fit better allowing them to save valuable body heat, food and fuel for water, as it would be for larger men. all things being equal... if they werent hit by snow and ice or if they didnt get blown off which so far there doesnt seem to be any evidence of... IMHO they could last longer on the mountain than a male team of equal experience simply by the fact they wouldnt need to consume as much heat food and water. they totally have the experience to be patient and could be just simply waiting waiting and waiting for the right moment to make their get away. i know we all hope and pray that... but they are super experienced in this... and yes they are probably getting to the point of having to decide on whether to make a last ditch desperating move in spite of the weather, but at this point it wont hurt to believe in them a little bit longer. "Be Bold and Mighty Forces Will Come to Thy Aide" and we know if they are alive They Will Be Bold....
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Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
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Jun 10, 2006 - 03:43pm PT
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Craig clearly described the possibilities, but I'm with you spartacus. Prayers and hope for those two badass gals up there.
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South District Ranger, Denali
Mountain climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Jun 10, 2006 - 06:12pm PT
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I wanted everyone who knows Sue and Karen it is a very sad and worrisome situation as they have been without fuel at the best scenario almost 12 days to date, June 10. We believe their tracks got as high as 16,400 but disappear and it is only a guess as what has happened. I never count anyone out in a search effort but we will need to make a decision soon how we conduct the search from here on, including what we realistically can do. Our plan is still to search more of the higher mountain when weather permits as we have not been able to search for 4 days now. We are doing everything possible here to find them within an acceptable risk to the searchers.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 10, 2006 - 06:33pm PT
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"They have been without fuel at the best scenario almost 12 days to date."
That's sobering news. I hope for the best but have to wonder . . .
JL
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Jun 10, 2006 - 08:43pm PT
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To Karen and Sue:
-"The strength of ten thosand women" we are all pulling for you.
Thank you for your Search and Rescue efforts Denali Team; seek and thee shall find.
Sincerely,
Jo Whitford
Yosemite Ca.
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Margo Talbot
Ice climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 10, 2006 - 09:06pm PT
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We are not speculating on a premature demise, but rather are planning in advance for a potential reality so that we are ready for any outcome. I meant it to be informative, not inflammatory.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Jun 11, 2006 - 12:32am PT
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Boy was that an offensive and arrogant statement. I know a number of people on this site and I can promise you, they have been in the thick of it.
You don't have to be at altitude to find yourself in the most dire and desperate of situations.
Don't underestimate this crowd, there are some very tough and hardy people who have been around.
Have you ever been out at sea with a dead motor in high seas? I was once, exposure is exposure. Altitude is only one of a huge number of factors.
My best wishes for their safe return, and my utmost respect for those involved in the rescue/search effort.
Robert
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Snowmassguy
Big Wall climber
Sf,Ca
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Jun 11, 2006 - 12:42am PT
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Time to pray. I was caught in a major AK avi in late April and can not belive I walked away. I should be dead. AK is awasome and so different from the lower 48. Keep the faith!!!
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high altidude
climber
Denver via Vail
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Jun 11, 2006 - 12:45am PT
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Still hoping like hell they walk off and have a good laugh...if they do i hope this post amuses...if they don't I 'm sure they'd both find it appropriate.
Do not stand on my grave and weep
I am not there I do not sleep.
I am a thousand winds that blow
I am the diamond glints in the snow
I am the sunlight on ripened grain
I am a gentle Autumns rain
When you awaken in the morning hush
I am the swift uplifting rush
I am the birds in circled flight
I am the soft stars that shine at night
So do not stand on my grave and cry
I am not there.... I did not die
first time I heard this was at a memorial for a friend of the Nott 's in Vail...
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Avery Nelson
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 11, 2006 - 01:01am PT
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> that said, may sue and karen find a cache...
I do hope that type of luck might strike them; a challenging proposition, given the amount of traffic the route (and even the mountain) sees. However, I've seen some odd things. Last year at 17K on the cassin: a full coiled rope, a copy of "The Hobit", and a full-sized spatula (?!?! still don't understand that one)... so who knows what they might have run across on the mountain. Anyhow, this is a very heart-felt event throughout the alpine community; I understand the realities, but maintain some shreds of optimism.
Avery
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Jun 11, 2006 - 01:21pm PT
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"rlf, thank you for your post. Nothing like arrogance creeping in to what should be a positive "vibes" thread. "
My response was a bit harsh, but the last thing this thread needs is that BS.
I really hope they come out of this. I also feel strongly that the SAR folks deserve our %100 support. I've done it, not to this scale, but I've seen my share. It's not an easy job.
This has been a rough year for the climbing community. We need to stick together.
Robert
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peaks2paddles
Mountain climber
Avon, Co
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Jun 11, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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everybody quit the bitchin and silly comments, quite petty in present conditions...leave this open for real info, please...
pray for a miracle...
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
Tahoe
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Jun 11, 2006 - 03:42pm PT
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Here's hoping they make it out alive.
-Aaron
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Jun 11, 2006 - 08:06pm PT
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Bump.... Prayers and thoughts.
Doug
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Jun 11, 2006 - 11:52pm PT
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Wow, this is very sad news indeed. My heart goes out to their family and friends.
This has been a rough year for the climbing community.
Robert
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KFN
climber
Fairfax
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Jun 12, 2006 - 01:13am PT
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Hi everyone,
I'm Sue's sister. Thanks for all of your kind wishes. I love hearing Sue and Karen stories (although I didn't know Karen personally).
You are all invited to Sue's celebration of life ceremony in Vail June 18th at 1pm. More later.
With love,
Karen Nott
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jun 12, 2006 - 01:30am PT
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God Bless Them. May their families find peace, knowing that they died doing what they loved. They lived a life few of us will ever know.
Jeff
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akcat
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Jun 12, 2006 - 02:34am PT
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To Karen Nott, her family, Mr. John Varco and the family of Karen McNeill:
From the heart of our hearts, we are all very sorry for your loss. Karen, you are very brave to post...Thank you.
I hope that from reading these posts each of us can find solace in the fact that so many are so concerned and realize that there is an entire community of support; Such is the joy that these 2 people have brought to so many lives.
It will be nice to meet you and your family on the 18th.
ct
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 12, 2006 - 03:41am PT
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Rest in peace ladies, it was a proud effort on a proud route.
:( condolences to friends and family
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Keeper of Australia Mt
Trad climber
Whitehorse, Yukon , Canada
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Jun 12, 2006 - 04:52am PT
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My heartfelt condolences to John Varco, and the Nott and McNeill families for the wrenching losses you have experienced. I know the mountain community near and far will draw together to support you in these unimaginably difficult times.
I did not know these talented climbing women personally and only came to appreciate the nature of the loss as I followed this sad story as it broke some time ago. Reading Karen's bubbly web site and appreciating her passion for dropping the ceiling for young women with her "Chicks with Picks" program and her teaching outside of Canmore made it obvious that she was a talented and special person. The Ouray Ice Climbing comp video with Sue was running pretty marginally on this machine but it was enough to give me insights into the exceptional person she was - amazing climbing talent combined with a great smile, sense of humor and love of life. These two women were exceptionally good people and a formidable team . We have not heard the last of them as their indomintable spirit will remain to call other young women to venture into the mountains and life and to experience the richness that they offer. They did not accept artifical boundaries on their dreams and broke trail for other young women to follow.
The Mountain world has been hard hit in the past few weeks - the passing of Sue and Karen as well as Sue Fear, an Australian alpinist. In the Chockstone web forum a person indicated that the latter must have had a death wish to do what she did in the mountains and to which I replied - nothing could be further from the truth. The lives of these amazing women were a supreme statement of living - a commitment to no know boundaries and to live each day in the mountains fulfilling their senses and dreams. No ship is made to stay in harbour and these women were
meant to be in the mountains and among the mountain community. That community, particulary in Canmore and Vail is staggering under a heap of sadness at this point in time.
I am reminded by a passage in Andrew Toddhunter's book " Fall of the Phantom Lord: Climbing in the Face of Fear" and account of the life of free faller Dan Osman. "We all draw lines, spontaneously or after long reflection, and every one that matters is a kind of death. And yet each line is an offering, less a bar of closure than a circle, incribed to shelter something we love more." Sue and Karen incribed their lines with passion, excellence, boldness, and kindness - embracing the mountains and people that formed the canvas of their lives - their brushes ,a sweep of vibrant color and energy that reflected the richness of their living. They have passed to us a gift as they have moved to another place - where we all will meet them one day - a reminder to live each day as if we should not see another sunrise - to experience all that life puts in our way and to leave the world a small bit better for our having been here, packaged with a smile and a lot of fun.
I thank Sue and Karen for the role models they have provided to the young women in our lives - in my case, a 12 year old daughter - who has indicated she wants to be an astronaut. I will tell her about Sue and Karen and the importance of engaging life on your own terms, not accepting any boundaries and to go for it!
I know their friends, John and family will see to it that we remember these two women in the most appropriate fashion - maybe a fund which grants monies to young women cutting loose on a chunk of near vertical ice/rock in some mountain region of this world - pushing the boundaries back even more and inspiring us to be all that we can be. I would be honored to contribute to any such endeavour.
I cannot be in Vail but my thoughts will surround the family and their friends as they celebrate the lives and living of these two exceptional individuals. As for the rest of us, we had better keep our mountain skills honed for when we meet up with Sue and Karen later on - we will have a lot of climbing and catching up to do!! They are simply on the next peak over and I can already hear the ker -chink of whacking ice picks! They will have been busy and we will be having great fun hearing of their latest exploits over some cold suds and hearing their laughs at our own foibles here and there.
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high altidude
climber
Denver via Vail
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Jun 12, 2006 - 08:22am PT
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I know that failed efforts take a heavy toll on the S&R community, and that it is with great reluctance that they call the search off. God bless those of you who gave it your best and thank you for being out there for all who venture out.
Karen - Godspeed to you, Evie, Bob and Sarah. When a loved one puts it all on the line as often as Sue did, there's an unspoken understanding that they may not be back from their next journey. However, that never makes the loss any easier for those left behind, though there is comfort knowing that thier life was lived unshackled and on their own terms. Certainly Sue had beaten the odds often enough before (emergency Nepalese appendectomy, the 7th Tentacle event) that there was a hope on the part of all that she was bulletproof.
You will reside in our prayers and thoughts.
Long may you run, Sue and Karen, long may you run.
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Southern Man
climber
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Jun 12, 2006 - 09:36am PT
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"Here she lies where she longed to be
Home is the sailor, home from the sea
and the hunter, home from the hills."
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reddirt
climber
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Jun 12, 2006 - 10:13am PT
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I was looking around to try & catch a glimpse of who Sue is...
For those of us not lucky enough to know her personally, I just found this little video of an interview w/ Sue Nott. It's not earthshattering content, but might still be worth a look for some.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Jun 12, 2006 - 10:56am PT
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These two vibrant souls will remain an inspiration for me.
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roslyn
Trad climber
washington
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Jun 12, 2006 - 11:27am PT
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every morning for the past while i would diligently log into st.com, looking for some news of a miraculous reappearance of karen and sue. With all my heart i really believed these women would power through this situation. Sadly, it seems the mountain has claimed two of the good ones for its own.
These women were an inspiration to me, and will continue to be so. They lived their lives doing what they love and in the big picture that counts the most.
my condolences to family and friends
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Ian Parnell
climber
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Jun 12, 2006 - 12:16pm PT
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To Karen Nott, and any other friends and family, could you email me urgently any details of a planned memorial service, as I hope to fly over from the UK. Looking forward to meeting up with you all and sharing memories of two amazing people.
My email address is ianparnell@blueyonder.co.uk
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KAB
Ice climber
Colchester, Vermont
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Jun 12, 2006 - 12:42pm PT
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My sincere thoughts are with the Nott and McNeill families. I had the pleasure of climbing with Sue at the recent AAC annual meeting. She put on a climbiing clinic with us middle-aged climbers to get the rust out and she was great. Very warm and personable. She was incredibly competent and never shoved it in our faces, instead was so encouraging. If the worst is true she will be very sadly missed by all in the climbing community, most of all of course by her family. Very sad.
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Tom M
climber
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Jun 12, 2006 - 01:38pm PT
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I’ve know of the death of several climbers, but Karen was the first that I had met. I met her at the climbing wall at a Canmore Ice Festival and, later, at a slide show she gave with Barry Blanchard on “Epics.” Both times I was impressed by her. She smiled, she talked and was sincere and humble.
I know that I will see the death of other climbers who I’m close to, and, regardless of every precaution I take and skill I employ, I might die climbing, too. The truth is, however, that most climbers don’t die climbing. Most of us will see the end in a car, on a motorcycle, or in a hospital bed. If I knew I was going to die, I’d try to get to the mountains as fast as I could.
Karen and Sue were at the top of the game. They were part of a very select club. They were good. I will remember them, I will speak kindly of them, I will toast them and I will learn from them.
God forgive me if I’ve said anything stupid,
Tom
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
Austin, TX to South LakeTahoe, CA
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Jun 12, 2006 - 01:46pm PT
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My condolences to Sue and Karen's family and friends.
We all know that in this sport, the worst can happen pretty easily - and take pleasure in avoiding the worst through skill and judgement when we can.
If the worst is true (and I'm hopeful it isn't, even still), then they went doing what they loved - they sounded passionate about it, and it moved them, spiritually.
I cannot think of a better way to go, even though that's little help to remaining family and friends.
May they rest in peace.
-Aaron
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Jun 12, 2006 - 02:59pm PT
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Karen Nott; if I may mention a couple encounters I had with your sister.
We had been talking over breakfast in Yosemite. She said how badly she needed a rest day but she still wanted to climb. When she told me the grade she climbed at on a ‘rest day,” I smiled; it is the grade I often climb at on any day. Off we went.
As I belayed her lead up the climb, she started laughing, and continued. Smirking myself, I yelled up,” what are you laughing about?” At a good stance, she looked down with that lovely smile,” I have been climbing so many hard routes lately, I kindof forgot how much fun climbing is!” As she continued on, my thoughts were of how beautiful she was, enjoying her passion.
When I ran into her in Moab, she showed me that nasty scar she had from that broken ice pillar, cutting loose (and how she was really getting tired of eating Jell-O!). I thought sadly at the time, “her climbing days are pretty much over.” Only months later, there she was in the magazines cranking on some hard ice route. “Such strength and perseverance of character.”
It appears your sister’s life has been shortened. This is sad, however know this well; her strength and inner beauty inspired me, as I am certain she inspired many, many others.
May peace be with you and your family.
Tim
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 12, 2006 - 03:21pm PT
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Most kind thoughts and condolences to all involved.
I can only offer a short excerpt from a book I'm now reading.
He lay back on the rock and looked up at the sky. The clouds had scattered into little tufts, violet and orange, the borders touched with charcoal. The universe had worked long and hard to fashion everything, above and below the clouds, and for the moment it all seemed sacred. He remembered the old stories of the Navajos, who would offer prayers to the buffalo before they would hunt them. It was a long journey from the wilderness, but whenever we forgot it altogether the savage drove the space ship. But he'd worked with the savage for years and understood that without him, people grew flaccid, ideas got brittle and precious and the great adventure started to corrode.
He wondered where his old friend loneliness had gone, and he felt almost lonely without him. But his sense of separateness had momentarily dissolved. Then the borders of his mind dissolved and he could picture himself, the dead and the living, all shoulder to shoulder on a glittering blue orb embedded in a chain of stars, vaulting across oceans of time and space. Every last thing had a temporary pass, but the adventure was sacred because only through some fantastic grace was the voyage even possible. The courage came from starting something you could never complete; the faith, in trusting the universe to finish the job.
He struggled to stay with this till he finally understood that that the voyage was not even possible for solo mariners. The grace of the thing, the laughter, was that existing at all meant you could never get left behind. Everything was born on the A-train.
JL
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Couloir
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Jun 12, 2006 - 05:07pm PT
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Very sorry to hear that in the end it seems that they will not make it off the mountain. But, if that is not the case and these two wonderful women do make it off intact, there will be a celebration like the world has never seen. Still hoping....
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BigSky
Mountain climber
Big Sky Montana
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Jun 12, 2006 - 05:56pm PT
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My condolences to the friends and family of Karen and Sue on their terrible loss.
I'd like to see how many vertical feet of elevation gain I can rack up tomorrow in the mountains in their memory and donate a related amount to charity. Does anyone know if Sue or Karen have a charity to which they were committed?
Or, if they show up in Talkeetna I would gladly donate the sum to their welcome home party!
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The Mad Irishman
Trad climber
VA alpine capital of the world
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Jun 12, 2006 - 07:17pm PT
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Long days and pleasent nights ladies.
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10b4me
Trad climber
Poserville
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Jun 12, 2006 - 09:24pm PT
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I am very sorry to hear they haven't been found. I am hoping for a miracle. My heartfelt condolences to the two ladies' families.
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Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
Denver
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Jun 12, 2006 - 11:01pm PT
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As much as those women loved adventure in the mountains, whether they have departed this world or not, they're home, in a place they loved.
My sincerest condelences to their family and friends. I thought of them both while I was in the mountains this past weekend and I will let their will, spirit and stregnth inspire me as long as I'm climbing.
Wishes for healing hearts and srong, fond memories.
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Margo Talbot
Ice climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 12, 2006 - 11:44pm PT
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We are in the last stages of planning Karen's memorial service which will be held in Canmore a day or two after Sue's. I will send in the official time and date once it has been decided upon. Thanks to all of you who have posted here over the past days: your thoughts, stories and prayers were greatly appreciated.
Margo
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Jun 13, 2006 - 10:39am PT
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Hi Margo.
Could you post the details on LTV and the CMC website too please?
If you need help with anything in Calgary just e mail me.
Howie.
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Jun 13, 2006 - 07:42pm PT
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Like many on ST, I've been checking this thread daily hoping for a positive outcome. I'm very sad to hear this hasn't had a happy ending, and I offer my condolensces to the friends and families of these two ladies.
Ed
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Johno
Big Wall climber
Cape Town / Japan
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Jun 13, 2006 - 08:12pm PT
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Infinite Sadness.
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KFN
climber
Fairfax
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Jun 13, 2006 - 08:52pm PT
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Hi All,
Thanks again for the sweet wishes, especially the story about "breakfast in yosemite." Those stories will keep her alive, for me. I'm in Talkeetna now where I feel very close to Sue and Karen. The folks here have been amazing. Yesterday was Sue's birthday, have a cosmo for her.
With Love,
Karen Nott
p.s. just for factual clarification, the appendix left in Nepal was mine, not Sue's. That was cake compared to what she toughed out. (:
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high altidude
climber
Denver via Vail
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Jun 13, 2006 - 09:04pm PT
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Sorry about the fact mix-up Karen - that was a little bit ago (88 or 89-ish?), and time blends some memories together. I knew it was one of you tough young Nott gals - it must be genetic. Prayers to all of you, and happy memories until you meet again.
greg
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Margo Talbot
Ice climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 13, 2006 - 10:10pm PT
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Karen’s memorial is at 2:00 p.m. on Tuesday, June 20th, at the Canmore Seniors Centre located at 600 9th Street in Canmore, Alberta. There will be a reception afterwards and you can count on there being much glitter and faux fur bedecking all of the women and probably some of the men. If you cannot make it and would like to honour a wonderful woman, get out your leopard skin sports bras and blue sparkle make-up and go dancing!
Margo
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anniekh
climber
Vail, CO
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:36pm PT
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Karen Nott -
Funny I've found myself here... You may not remember me - but my name is Annie Hollis, Marlo's little sister. I grew up across the street almost from you guys in East Vail. I just found out about Sue yesterday and have been scouring the internet for information and stumbled upon this fantastic forum.
I just wanted to tell you that my heart and prayers are with you and your family. I lost my stepdad to a skiing accident in Vail 10 years ago, you may remember. While it's difficult condolence, I still found it comforting to know he was doing what he loved - as it seems Sue was.
I don't think either Marlo nor I will be able to make it back to Vail this weekend, but I know my mom is going to be there.
Your sister was phenomenal and memorable. Most of my younger day's memories have her face in them, from the mudslide on their graduation day to their prom in the Laura Ashley dresses. It seems I remember the teenager, on the cusp of discovering her "true" love.
Again, my thoughts are with you.
~Annie
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vac
Social climber
vail
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Jun 14, 2006 - 01:56am PT
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I have only known Sue for 12 years! We belonged at the same club, she taught aerobics and we were on the neighboring stair
master everytime we were in the gym!!I ran races at the same she did.She was so beautiful, and so kind. Her kindness emulated why she did what she did! It saddens me that her body has not been found. But her memorial is in Vail on Sun, June 18., and if you know Sue, she's a dooer and since we have not heard from her...We will honor her, because she is such an extraordinary woman. I say we ran togehter, What I meant is that we started the race together snd she came in the top 3 and I was always in the last three! We still smiled at each other, b/c we both loved to run. I can only imagine her climbing passion.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 14, 2006 - 02:13am PT
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I met Sue at Rifle in Colorado.
I was doing some repping; conducting a shoe demo for the most part and of course I tried to outfit her with various wares as I might.
She was patient with the sales shtick, quite relaxed, and talkative in an easy and familiar way.
She characterized the complexities of sport climbing and the routine uncertainty of working a project. She contrasted this with the feeling one gets when leading hard trad or ice: she said,
"When I am leading an ice pillar, I OWN that thing! Deep inside I know I am going to do it! -Not so with sport climbing."
This might seem contary to some, but I knew what she meant:
BOLDNESS HAS GENIUS POWER AND MAGIC IN IT.
-probably Goethe or some such whiz said that...
I've always found the well-rounded climber to be a refreshing spirit amongst the hardened specialists.
JL's excerpt upthread was for me a most poignant nod to the value and contribution offered up by the explorers and adventurers among us.
I feel as though the finely cultivated Western world is systematically and recklessly weeding out this most prime aspect of adventurous spirit and noble boldness.
From somewhere deep in my heart, unknown even to me, I thank these two women for persevering in this regard.
We need our rough hewn heroes, we need them very much.
Thank You Sue,
Thank You Karen,
-Roy
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Everest Climber
Mountain climber
Palmerston North, New Zealand
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Jun 14, 2006 - 06:09am PT
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Karen's death leaves the kind of hole in my heart that only the loss of a climbing partner can do.
We climbed together in New Zealand when I was in my early twenties and she was in her late teens. We had some memorable trips climbing Mt Cook and Mt Aspiring and what I learnt of Karen was that she was fiercely strong, very focused, and a wonderful human being.
We went to Peru in 1990 and she held my hand while I puked into a zip-loc bag at 6,000m on Huascaran. A week or two later we had just the coolest day out on the SW Face of Alpamayo. Perfect steep ice, perfect day. I have a photo of you grinning like an idiot afterwards.
After that we went our separate ways really. And from afar I could see that Karen was going from strength to strength as a super talented climber.
Me, I followed my dream to climb 8,000m peaks and Mt Everest. Karen you were into different things - pure lines and hard technical routes - still totally true to yourself and always in love with the mountains.
I always want my memories of Karen to be a celebration of life when for a little while we walked on the same path together. But just indulge me and let me mourn her loss for a while.
Its winter here and there's snow on the hills and I can hear the mountains calling again. And maybe you are there too Karen.
Rest in Peace.
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Ain't no flatlander
climber
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Jun 14, 2006 - 09:33am PT
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I am sadly reminded of another lost friend, Catherine Freer. Unquestionably one of the strongest climbers of her day, male or female, Catherine and her partner David Cheesmond disappeared on the Hummingbird Ridge of Mt. Logan almost 20 years ago. Catherine was simply a fantastic person to be around who did amazing things yet was low key.
One bright spot from her loss is that the Catherine Freer Wilderness Therapy Program was established in Oregon to help troubled teens so her legacy lives on. I hope some suitable way can be established to remember the spirits of Sue and Karen.
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hoot
Mountain climber
cathedral city, ca.
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Jun 14, 2006 - 02:00pm PT
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The "lure" is a good term to describe many climbers inability not to climb.
I feel so very sad that these climbers were lost. Everyone on here knows the dangers involved with climbing..but it doesn't seem to lessen the feeling of loss...
They will be much remembered for their life...
hoot
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Denise
Trad climber
Saint John, NB
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Jun 14, 2006 - 05:45pm PT
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To all family and friends of these two remarkable women...
I want you to know that this tremendous loss is also felt here in the East Coast of Canada (New Brunswick). Unfortunately I haven't been as lucky as some to meet either Sue or Karen....but I always hoped that someday I would! Now, I mourn and promise to remember these gals...especially when faced with my climbing challenges.
God Bless all of you and may you find peace in knowing that someday you will meet again.
Denise
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 14, 2006 - 06:40pm PT
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Posted with permission from another site below.
Sad deal. My profound condolences to friends and family.
-Brian in SLC
The AKKID, who took the below shot back on 23 April, posted:
I was in Talkeetna waiting to fly out with a friend of mine to the Ruth. We were stuck in town for a day due to bad weather. The next day was bad in the morning, but clearing. That is when Sue Knott and John Varco showed up waiting to fly out to the Kahiltna. Both seemed very up in spirits, especially Sue. She was joking around saying that half the gear she was bringing was makeup and stuff like that. Sue was obviously flying out for the infinite spur and John wasn't really clear what he was doing. He was just looking at getting some altitude for a trip to Pakistan. Just as I was boarding the plane for my flight out, I snapped this picture. Sue has her back to to the camera just right of center, and John is to her left in the red jacket. She will be missed.
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Keeper of Australia Mt
Trad climber
Whitehorse, Yukon , Canada
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Jun 14, 2006 - 11:23pm PT
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This song resonates with me:
The Dance (Garth Brooks)
Looking back on the memory of
The dance we shared 'neath the peaks above
For moment all the world was right
How could I have known that you'd ever say goodbye
And now I'm glad I didn't know
The way it all would end the way it all would go
Our lives are better left to chance I could have missed
the pain
But I'd of had to miss the dance
Climbing with you all I experienced everything
For a moment wasn't I a King
But if I'd known how the King would fall
Hey whose to say you know I might have chanced it all
And now I'm glad I didn't know
The way it all would end the way it all would go
Our lives are better left to chance I could have missed
the pain
but I'd of had to miss the dance
Yes my life is better left to chance
I could have missed the pain but I'd of had to miss the dance
The sharing of their spirit with us is such a beautiful thing - blessings in life come from unexpected places and so it with this. In Aussie there is a saying and it is fitting - They will be seeing us when they see us but not if we see them first.
I had business travel to Ottawa next week and I have altered my routing to go to Canmore for Karen's memorial ( I can't get as far as Vail unfortunately) but Sue will in the room with all her friends in Canmore - I expect it will be a beautiful thing and there will be a lot of love and great spirit and blazing humor during the proceedings. I don't know the Canmore mob all that well but I do know some from various depredations out and about the local crags. We crazy Canucks will attend to our departed climbing sisters in a form that will embrace them and having the snow in Alaska Range melting from Sue and Karen's smiles. I just feel it is a really important thing to do and it is important that the small band of passionate climbers in the far northwest of Canada should be represented in Canmore. We admire and cherish these two so much. I expect the local mob of Kiwis will be out in force and I might even come across a staggering
vagrant Aussie (looking for WI5 - wrong season mate!) and this shy, introverted and innocent Canuck can always convert that to a lot of fun!! I going to take some pics and will file a synopsis of proceedings on the Aussie qurank and Chockstone sites which I have been contributing to as this has developed. I hope the Vail proceedings can be shared widely also. The extended family of our Sue and Karen does span the globe. Their spirit is not going to fade - absolutely no chance. And I will see them someday, not too soon mind you , as I have a few routes in the Mtsto flail away on - but Sue and Karen would understand that! I expect "Stairway to Aussie Heaven" to go next spring and that scandalous epic would put a smile on Sue and Karen's faces! No greater sport than stirrin some Aussie possum from their sub-alpine lairs!!
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:35am PT
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To the family and friends of Karen and Sue, any positive energy within me, I wiil send your way. My condolences.
This thead has gone on and I've kept an eye on it every day. I feel as if I've lost a very close friend, even though did not know them. Kinda weird, I know, but the mountains call to me without respite... Climb me, climb me, come and climb me... So, I think I understand a bit of what drew these outstanding women to them.
I have said this before, and I'll repeat it now. I know someday, I'll leave this place, and I hope that I can be in the mountains when that day comes.
We mourn this loss, and of a part of ourselves... because, I believe, in some way, we are all more closely knit that we sometimes realize.
Peace and Love to the family, friends, and all those in this community.
Doug
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Jun 15, 2006 - 01:17pm PT
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> ---------- Forwarded message --
> From: Mark Westman
> Date: Jun 11, 2006 8:15 PM
>
> Everyone:
>
> I just returned from the mountains, and I have been sifting through a number
> of phone messages and emails asking me about the situation on Foraker with
> Sue and Karen.
>
> Please pass this along to anyone interested who I have not included in
> this email.
>
> Most of you know I have been actively involved in this search and have
> been closely in touch with the events. I only want to revisit this just once,
> so here is everything I've seen, and some of my thoughts. Right now, Lisa and
> I are trying to come to terms with this, but all I can say is that we've
> spent the past couple of weeks expecting our friends to come walking into camp
> with a heck of a story and wondering what all the fuss is about.
>
> I imagine most of you have been keeping close tabs, but for clarity I'll
> state these facts: Sue and Karen had left Kahiltna base camp on May 12.
> Before leaving, Karen borrowed an FRS frequency Motorola radio from Lisa.
> They told Lisa they had about 14 days of food and fuel, and Karen promised
> Lisa they would radio her during the 8 PM weather as soon as they were
> high enough on the route (the FRS radio is used by many climbers and guide
> groups now in lieu of the old CB radios). Will Mayo and Max Turgeon were
> retreating from a new route they attempted to the right of the Spur, and met the
> girls at the base of the Infinite on May 14 at about 8 AM. Sue and Karen
> expressed hope that they would be in basecamp 10 days from this day.
> Later, Max and Will noted repeatedly that the girls' packs appeared to be
> enormous and heavy, which allowed us initially to not worry so much when
> they did not return after 10-12 days.
>
> On June 1, after several days of consultation, no sign of them on the
> summit or descent route through the basecamp telescope,and after a prolonged
> windstorm had ended, Daryl Miller declared the situation a SAR. I flew the
> route and the avalanche drains on either side of the Infinite from top to
> bottom in the LAMA helicopter 6 times over the period June 2 to June 4.
> During this time we found Sue's pack in the debris at the base, about 500
> feet right of the start of the route, along with assorted items strewn
> about the avy cone, including a sleeping bag, stuff sacks, and a jacket. A
> z-rest remained strapped to the pack, and where the strap covered the
> pad there was significant fading of the material color, indicating it had
> been there for some time. The radio Lisa lent to them was in a zipper
> pouch, and was still functional. We also observed old but clear tracks at 10,500,
> and then from 13,000 to 14,500, and again from 15,300 to about 15,900.
> These appeared to be at least one week old. We also observed faded tracks made
> by Will Mayo and Max Turgeon on a new route they had put up on the side of
> the French Ridge on May 12-13 (they had retreated from 13,000 feet on the
> French Ridge) On June 5, the last day the LAMA was able to fly, faint but
> definitive tracks were spotted higher at around 16,400- pretty much at a
> point where an avalanche incident into the objective drainage was no
> longer realistic, and out of the fall line of where the pack would have traveled.
> No tracks or any signs whatsoever were seen on the summit plateau or on
> the slopes beneath it to the east or west (areas they may have sought shelter
> from the wind), which was flown extensively and close to the surface on
> June 4 and 5, nor were any seen on the Sultana ridge, southeast ridge, or upper
> Talkeetna Ridge (which Sue climbed in 2005). Tracks confirmed to be from a
> guided team on the Sultana ridge were found near peak 12,400, and
> continued down to Crosson and the Kahiltna glacier. These tracks were over 1
> week old but clearly visible. There were definitely no tracks on the Sultana beyond
> where this group's tracks ended. The weather began to get worse on June 6;
> June 8 through this morning has had near blizzard conditions above 12,000
> feet, with very high winds again (reported 60 mph at the 14 camp). There
> has been no ability to search during this time, obviously.
>
> Having climbed the route in 2001, and now having done numerous hovers in
> the LAMA at close range, it is my observation that there are only two possible
> paths that the pack could have traveled to have ended up in the place that
> it did. One possibility is that it came down from the exit gully between
> 15,000 and 16,000. This gully, most often snow, was scoured to bare ice
> from top to bottom, but showed signs of having recently been blanketed in deep
> snow- slab rips vertically on its sides near the bottom, obvious
> windloading deposition, etc. Until we spotted the tracks high in this gully, we had
> initially thought they had triggered an avalanche in this gully. Their
> tracks high in this gully are a 1-2 foot wide raised trail with small
> pedestals- indicating that the slope was covered in deep snow when they
> climbed it, and that it has since been scoured by very high winds.
> However, aerial hovers of the 7000 vertical foot fall line drainage that this gully
> spills into, and eventually spills out to where the pack was found,
> indicates the pack would have had to clear numerous huge bergschrunds and
> crevasses on a mid face hanging glacier, and then, while still a
> possibility, would have had to take a rather lucky bounce and trajectory
> to cross into a fork of the drainage that empties out to where the pack was
> discovered (this lower gully is the one used by Terravechia and Larson to
> access their south face route from 1999). While I won't discount it
> entirely, I have a hard time believing that a pack dropped or blown away
> from that height would have made it to where it did; and while the pack
> was torn and beat up, it was in surprisingly good shape for having fallen so
> far. And it also appears from the arrangement of gear on the debris
> cone that the pack might not have 'yard-saled' its contents until nearly
> at the bottom. So the only other possible place the pack could have been
> dropped on the route and ended up where it did, is the lower half of the
> "ice rib" at about 1/3 height on the route- from about 10,800 to about
> 11,500. Here, the 40+ degree snow slopes spill over to the right and
> anything dropped here would have fallen right into the objective gully.
>
> Based on the climbing times of past ascents of the Spur, weather
> conditions while Sue and Karen were on route (2-3 feet of new snow above 10K
> on their 4th and 5th days on route, another smaller storm on day 7), and reports
> from Max and Will that their packs were quite heavy, we estimate that Sue and
> Karen reached the final section of the route not earlier than May 22. May
> 21 was the first of 8 consecutive days of extremely high winds above 14,000
> feet. From May 25 to 28 winds were reported at over 70 mph at the 14K camp
> on Denali, with gusts estimated well over 100 mph at the 17,000 camp. I
> was in Talkeetna during this time; the weather was sunny and clear but Denali
> and Foraker were engulfed in tremendous lenticulars, and a visible "fuzz"
> permeated the air from so much blowing snow in the mountains and blowing
> dust in the lowlands. The source of the wind was a strong cold front from
> the north/northwest and an enormous high pressure system in the Bering
> Sea. This produced a massive pressure drop across the Alaska Range from north
> to south.
>
> Beyond what I have just described we are left to pure speculation. It
> seems clear they completed the route and then something bad happened once
> they reached the summit area. It's hard to say for sure exactly how or where
> the pack became separated from Sue, but we are certain it was not
> intentionally jettisoned. It's the belief of everyone that regardless of how or
> where it happened, the loss of this pack eventually became a critical incident that
> compromised their ability to withstand the conditions they faced on the
> upper mountain. If in fact the pack was dropped from the 'ice rib', as I
> outlined above, this could very well fit into a scenario where they then
> would have endured a series of colder and more uncomfortable bivouacs,
> possibly with smaller rations of food and fuel, having evidently arduous
> trail breaking above 13,000 feet, and counting on getting favorable
> weather to escape the route- only to be overwhelmed by horrible weather at a
> time when their physical condition- even if they still had the pack- would have
> been quite compromised. There are many questions, many possibilities, and
> unfortunately few definitive answers. I do firmly believe that by the time
> we were searching, they were already in trouble, and that if they were at
> all mobile and in the area we were looking, we would have spotted them,
> and/or they would have made some sort of effort to have their location
> known, perhaps by staking their orange tent at the mouth of a snowcave or
> crevasse- if they even still had their tent. Today would have been their
> 29th day since starting the route. We all have been holding out hope for a
> miracle; at this point, I think we all understand that is what it will
> take.
>
>
> I know most of you know one or both of them personally. I'm so very sorry
> I don't have something encouraging to report. This has been a sad and
> frustrating couple of weeks for us all.
>
> Tonight- raise your glass to the girls; and remember to use a straw.
>
> Mark
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Keeper of Australia Mt
Trad climber
Whitehorse, Yukon , Canada
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Jun 15, 2006 - 04:27pm PT
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Thanks Mark for this. Thanks from the climbing community for being there and doing an amazing job. You and your team are simply the best. This is a really sad affair but yet again serves to highlight the really, really serious nature of these mts. We mourn but we also celebrate these two fine people whom danced on high despite the inherent risks. Lives well lived and not to be forgotten. And we won't forget your continuing efforts on behalf of all climbers who venture into the mtns of the Alaska Range. All the best.
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high altidude
climber
Denver via Vail
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Jun 15, 2006 - 05:57pm PT
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Thanks for the info Mark - always better to know as much detail as possible! Thanks too for your hard work and analysis - very intriguing.
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whipperman
climber
Asheville, NC
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Jun 15, 2006 - 07:17pm PT
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Just want to share a short story about Karen and celebrate the lives of these two wonderful women.
I met Karen in Alaska out on the Ruth Gorge back in 2003. I'd been hunkered down in a tent during a three day storm and emerged on the fourth day to sunny skies and bottomless new snow. We'd been hoping for a pickup on the gorge but realized pretty quickly that we'd have to shuttle loads to the Don Sheldon Amphitheater because of the snow. It ended up being one hell of a day, breaking trail in the deep snow and pulling the sled. The last rise up to the amphitheater just about did me in, and I dropped my pack and sat in the snow, exhausted. I looked around and about 10 other parties were just hanging out, glancing at us with little interest.
Not 10 seconds later, Karen McNeill strode over confidently and offerred me a welcoming cup of tea. She'd seen us breaking trail from a long way off and had brewed up a pot of tea for the arrival of three total strangers. We talked for awhile about what we'd been doing and what we wanted to do. I mentioned seeing a beautiful looking ice pillar high on Mt. Dickey only to be told, humbly by Karen, that she and her partner had already been up there, and that it had been fantastic. I realized right away that I had met an inspired and special person.
I've traveled many places since then and have met and forgotten many people, but I've never forgotten the smile and cup of tea that greeted me that day in the Alaskan range.
Thanks Karen.
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cragrat
climber
New Zealand
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Jun 16, 2006 - 11:42pm PT
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Just to say there are a lot of us over here in NZ (including Pat Deavoll of course) who knew Karen and are sad at the loss of a couple of awesome people. I have only seen Karen a couple of times in recent years when she has been back in NZ so have had to follow her path through others - Pat, Anna Keeling etc but I will retain wonderful memories of a wonderful woman.
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Jun 17, 2006 - 10:36am PT
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Does anyone have more specific info on the service in Vail Sunday?
Thanks,
JW
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Jay
Trad climber
Fort Mill, SC
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Jun 17, 2006 - 10:58am PT
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As a regular on this site I don’t know why I ignored this tread until now… I’m shaken, and being a softie yes I have tears in my eyes. I send condolences and prayers to the family and friends. God bless all of you.
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pissed
Trad climber
Lake Placid NY
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Jun 17, 2006 - 11:30am PT
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Terrible story. I am sorry to hear about this and offer condolences to friends, families, and partners.
The radio was in the dropped pack. I am sure that did not play well for them
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
Austin, TX to South LakeTahoe, CA
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Jun 18, 2006 - 04:12pm PT
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I followed this thread for a while, then was away from internet service for a while.
As a result, I'm not completely up to speed.
I know it was looking bleak for them - arguably too bleak to survive. So bad that the search stopped. But has their been any real update since then on them other than memorial plans?
Have their bodies been found?
Again, my consolations to friends and family.
-Aaron
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South District Ranger, Denali
Mountain climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Jun 18, 2006 - 07:14pm PT
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I followed this thread for a while, then was away from internet service for a while.
As a result, I'm not completely up to speed.
I know it was looking bleak for them - arguably too bleak to survive. So bad that the search stopped. But has their been any real update since then on them other than memorial plans?
Have their bodies been found?
Again, my consolations to friends and family.
-Aaron
Aaron, The search has not suspended, it has just taken a different priority. We (National Park Service) will keep searching Mount Foraker for Sue and Karen but it is at lower level of urgency. It is possible that we will find them but given the scale and size of the face of Mount Foraker it will be very hard as it is a contrast of rock, snow, ice, and crevasses. I can only tell you that I personally would very happy in finding them.
Thanks, Daryl Miller, South District Ranger, Denali National Park and Preserve.
The search has
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 18, 2006 - 09:31pm PT
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I just returned from a wonderful memorial for Sue up at the Vail ampitheatre. As sad as this type of gathering is it's uplifting to attend with so many family, friends and climbing partners. Memories were offerd up by Ian Parnell ( a self-effacing representative of the euro-climbing community), John Varco, Zoe Hart, Karen Nott that brought tears to our eyes and joy to our hearts that we're alive and members of this wonderful community.
As one speaker said, "Sue's climbing with the angels now".
Sue, climb safe--and when you get to the top, keep climbing,
Mal
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Justin Black
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 19, 2006 - 12:45am PT
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I met Karen in Ouray this past February and was immensely impressed with her both as an alpinist and as a person. I invited her to Bishop to do some climbing and to give a presentation at Mountain Light Gallery, and we exchanged e-mails over the intervening months. We were really only acquaintances, but I was shocked and profoundly saddened when I heard the news that she and Sue were missing. They were amazing women, and an inspiration to alpinists worldwide. My heartfelt condolences go to their families, partners and friends. May their path take them higher, and may they remain in our memories forever.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
Austin, TX to South LakeTahoe, CA
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Jun 19, 2006 - 02:14pm PT
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Thanks for the update, Denali Ranger.
I think we'd all appreciate hearing the end of this story, one way or the other.
And I know we all appreciate all the hard work you guys and gals do.
Please keep the updates coming as events warrant.
-Aaron
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danika
Trad climber
Ridgway
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Jun 20, 2006 - 01:25pm PT
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If anyone reading this is in the Ridgway/Ouray area, a group of us are having a gathering tonight to celebrate the lives of these beautiful women and also honor our sadness and loss. Please join if you like.
Drakes Restaurant
7:30pm
Wear your hot pants and glitter!
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James Garrett
Trad climber
slc, utah
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Jun 21, 2006 - 03:37am PT
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These losses are always so difficult. I remember meeting Sue back in the 80's as she strolled up to a route we had just thrashed ourselves on at Devil's Tower in Wyoming. As I watched her flow up the currents of the wall, I sensed it would not be the last time I would see her or her picture in some magazine, again. She was the total antithesis of arrogance or egotism. Her inner serenity and beauty was clearly evident. Why is is that so many of the good ones die. My condolences to her close friends, family, and loved ones. I am so sorry...she will be missed and remembered
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kevelyn
Ice climber
Long Valley,NJ
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Jun 22, 2006 - 09:50pm PT
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dirtineye,
Sorry it's taken me so long to reply..yes, I know a Jen from GA. Great gal....climbed with her a couple of times now. Tried to make it to Karen's service..the Universe said "no"...canceled flights, bad weather...I know it was fab!
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spartacus
Ice climber
juneau ak
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Jun 23, 2006 - 10:55pm PT
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its always hard to explain to family and friends why it is that we do what it is we do... all of us have suffered the pointed looks of loved ones when climbers go missing or die high up the mountain in a cold world of ice and rock... for them is seems so pointless and even too cruel. ive loved this poem for as long as ive climbed and i think helps explain away things not always easily understood about this sport... it wasnt written about climbing but by an airman during the ww1 but it captures the need in all of us to reach for something greater to find something deeper in ourselves... so here goes.. its dedicated to sue and karen and their families.... and all who climb
"Oh! I have slipped the surly bonds of Earth
And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings;
Sunward I've climbed, and joined the tumbling mirth
Of sun-split clouds, — and done a hundred things
You have not dreamed of — wheeled and soared and swung
High in the sunlit silence. Hov'ring there,
I've chased the shouting wind along, and flung
My eager craft through footless halls of air. . . .
Up, up the long, delirious burning blue
I've topped the wind-swept heights with easy grace
Where never lark, or ever eagle flew —
And, while with silent, lifting mind I've trod
The high untrespassed sanctity of space,
Put out my hand, and touched the face of God."
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Keeper of Australia Mt
Trad climber
Whitehorse, Yukon , Canada
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Jun 30, 2006 - 11:40pm PT
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Thanks - it certainly is a better link - I used what was showing on my computer for the page but obviously it was a layered version.
Several of Karen's climbing buddies read some of her pieces from the CAJ during the memorial. Kim Csizmazia read a poem she had written and was supported by a couple of Karen's friends as well. It recorded Karen's impressive list of ascents. She led off and was followed by the other two in sucession but in a delayed fashion - sort of a layered thing ending with Infinite - Foraker, Infinite - Foraker, Infinite - Foraker - it was really nice. The whole production was a thing of class. Standing room only - and the who's who of the Canadian climbing scene, Kim, Will Gadd, Barry Blanchard and many others.
I talked with her dad afterwards - a top bloke - he indicated that the rangers had said that the high winds - 100mph and associated weather happen once in ten years. A softspoken, man - totally surprised I think of the impact of his daughter and of the good feelings being expressed by so many towards her.
I will try and visit him when I get to New Zealand in a few years time.
I made a significant contribution to the scholarship fund on behalf of my son and daughter plus the Climbing Association of the Yukon. It was an honor to do so and it will help her spirit take wing in the hearts of other young climbing women whose place is on the highest peaks and on the hardest routes.
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Lana
Sport climber
Bristol, UK
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Jul 12, 2006 - 09:53am PT
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I first met Sue in Chamonix. I was looking for a place to live and ended up sharing her room. I found her such an inspiring character, i'd never met a woman so focused and driven. It always amused me that she was more of a girl than me when down in the valley and would ask to borrow my make-up and spend hours in the bathroom then when I drove her to the lift for days in the mountains I couldn't lift her pack into my car... it was bigger than she was! She was such a caring and special person. She is the 2nd friend I have lost from that winter in chamonix but both their memories will live on forever in my mind.
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ergenomic
Mountain climber
Australia
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Hello,
My condolences go to Sue and Karen's families and freinds. I met Sue and John while I was working in Chamonix in the winter of 2002-3. Although I am not a mountain climber, rather a snowboarder, we had much in common as I was working at a small mountaineering/ski shop in Chamonix. Sue and John came to visit and check out the mountain gear, have their skis tuned and have a chat. I rememeber Sue and John visited just after they had climbed the Eiger - having not seen them for a few days, I asked what they had been up to, and they replied that they had climbed the Eiger. Not being a mountain climber, I did not realise at the time the scale of what she accomplished. Sue was a very nice person, with which I shared some laughs and short conversations.
I felt compelled to write a few words after discovering the sad news.
My regards to all Sue and Karen's family and friends.
Jan
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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It is very important to be reminded of just how extraordinary these individuals were.
Thank you Jan.
-wayne
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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May 17, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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It doesn't seem that long ago I would read of these climbers latest conquests and wished I'd followed similar dreams.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Always inspired by this magnificent team.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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...we're they ever recovered ? So sad .
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10b4me
Social climber
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I don't believe the bodies were recovered.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jun 14, 2015 - 08:50am PT
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9 years in the blink of an eye.
Remembering a pair of extraordinary souls.
What a gift they were.
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10b4me
Social climber
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Jun 14, 2015 - 09:04am PT
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Seems like it was just yesterday.
:-(
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Not forgotten.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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They've got a nice little memorial in the Ouray Ice park we stop in every year....
10 years... wow...
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Never forgotten.
“what matters most is how well you walk through the fire”
― Charles Bukowski
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Rest in Peace, both of you.
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