Hyalite Canyon Ice Conditions????

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Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 31, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
Anyone got the scoop? I am headed there tomorrow for a week of Plaid fun.
Credit: Plaidman
sween345

climber
back east
Dec 31, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
Plaid,

A little info here to get you started http://montanaice.com/forum/ice-conditions/hyalite
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Dec 31, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
Hyalite is pretty dry. Cody might be the better bet right now.
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 31, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
get yourself some new tools dude. we're in the 21st century. And lose the wrist straps. and have fun - wish I was going.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Dec 31, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
LOL, Mike so you ditched your Chouinard X-15's ...wasn't that what you use to roll with? What are you sporting these days?
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 31, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
No Couch, I had a Forrest "life time" set when I was at PSU. Sold them to a collector (Supertopo Duane) some years back and now have BD Vipers. Yea, I know, already dated, but plenty for me.


Credit: rockermike
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 09:53pm PT
My partner has BD Fusions. We use the old school ones for the second and for an extra set. He let's me use the Fusion's for leading. Although I kinda like the leashes. I once took a fall and the leash caught the fall. It played hell on my wrist, but it was better than taking a spill on ice.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Dec 31, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
Right Mike, the late Roger Smith (also partially a PSU guy), Smitty, rocked the X-15's. My bad, been 30 some odd years?

Have fun Plaidman!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
Rick and I have worked hard for this trip. We worked almost everyday for the last month. We are like kids on x-mas morn. SOOOOOOO excited!!!!
bigwall shitter

Social climber
the wild west
Dec 31, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
ignore what the guy from Minnesota says. Hyalite is in great shape! Most stuff in the main fork is in great shape, check out the Winter Dance area, over easy (WI3), Curtains, and Slot corner (both WI4) are great introductions to the area and with the low avy danger right now should be a wonderful day out. If there isn't new snow you can make it all the way in the east fork road with a 4x4. It's a great season this year and you'll have a blast!
Dudeman

Trad climber
Idaho/Beyond
Jan 1, 2013 - 12:42am PT
Check out the pics. From a couple of weeks ago: https://www.facebook.com/?ref=tn_tnmn#!/photo.php?fbid=335638449875751&set=a.335638363209093.62926.103319039774361&type=1&theater
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 06:17am PT
Thx bigwall shitter. We will take all the bets we can get. 4x4 with studs. Check. Badass ice tools and plenty of screws. Check. Awesome climbing partner. Check. It's 3:15 am, Alpine start. Check. Picking up my climbing partner at 4:00 am and we hit the road for a 12 hour ride to bliss. WAAAA HOOOOO!
Plaidman on Great White Icicle Little Cottenwood Canyon Utah
Plaidman on Great White Icicle Little Cottenwood Canyon Utah
Credit: Plaidman
BMartin

Ice climber
Bozeman, MT
Jan 1, 2013 - 11:30am PT
The road to the east fork closes at the intersection to the main road on January 1st, unless there are cars stuck back there then they leave it open until folks get their vehicles out.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 11:41am PT
How far we gotta hike if the road closes?
hossjulia

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Jan 1, 2013 - 11:41am PT
OK, so you know, those of us less fortunate are now expecting a FULL TR of your adventures.

Have a blast! Hope you remembered the camera.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 1, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
hey there say, plaidman...

have a great trip and may it be all you are hoping for!
:)
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
Another 3 hours and we will be in Bozeman.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 1, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
Yo, just missed you! Was there for 5 days prior.

It is freaking awesome!


Dribbles in great conditions (was very brittle on first pitch though, when we did it 3-4 days ago). I took the steepest line to the left of the wi3ish ramp that majority of people take on pitch 3 and made it into a wi4+ish pumper.

Cleopatra's Needle is in and cleaned out! I got to lead every pitch, including the wi5 pillar that does not touch down at the moment. Onsighted my first wi5!

Thrill Is Gone was onsighted yesterday. It does not have much ice through the middle but that's what makes it a mixed climb right? AWESOME climb. Kept me engaged throughout.

Hangover is in great shape.

G1 is good

G2 is ok. Picked out at the top

Fat Chance is fat.

Thin Chance is thin and picked out. Someone called it wi5 after leading it. I led it and thought it was wi4, just thin which makes it kind of scary. But you can hook a lot.

Mummy II was fat but wet

Scepter- one of the scariest leads ever for me. Climbing was not hard, but it was soooo shendeliered that i couldn't place screws that were confidence inspiring till half way up it. Place a screw, and it goes hollow after half way point. than on the upper part u swing and whole tool goes in almost with the head, cuz it bashed through thinish shendeliery sh#t. So I did more hooking and ran it out a ways on top too. Climb was not picked out 3 days ago. But I saw people on it yesterday, so good ice may be accessed soon, and big steps could be formed.

Fat One is fat. lol

Have fun.


PS: I have those same tools. Grievel Light Machines. But climb on cobras now.

Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
Thx for all the beta. We will see what we can get done.
thx too to neebee. I will let u know how it went.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 1, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
You picked a cold week.....good uck and don't forget your gloves..
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 1, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
Cleopatra's Needle WI5 (12/29/2012)
Cleopatra's Needle WI5 (12/29/2012)
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Check out this beauty. My favorite ice climb ever. Although I do not have that many on my resume lol!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
Thanks Jim. Not really cold for a guy that worked in Grand Lake Colorado in -40. I didn't wear gloves much as it is really hard to hold nails or anything else when you are building.

Sometimes I even throw off my gloves while ice climbing.
The temps don't seem that bad really.

For BMartin
The road to the east fork closes at the intersection to the main road on January 1st, unless there are cars stuck back there then they leave it open until folks get their vehicles out.

Not any more according to this website:http://www.hyalite.org/?page_id=22

They say: There is easy access to the Main Drainage at the Grotto Falls Trailhead because the road is now plowed from December 1–March 31.

So psyched. We are at our hotel. Gonna jump in the Jacuzzi. Drink lots of water and hopefully sleep.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 10:08pm PT



hossjulia


OK, so you know, those of us less fortunate are now expecting a FULL TR of your adventures.

Have a blast! Hope you remembered the camera.

We got even better a camera and a GOPRO!!!
bigwall shitter

Social climber
the wild west
Jan 1, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
the east fork road is different from the main fork, which is plowed all the way. If it doesn't snow there's a boottrack all the way into the killer pillar in flanders, champagne sherbet should be at the top of your list. I've spent the last 4 days in the east fork/flanders. Today I drove all the way to the end of the road, not bad, just stay in the ruts. Of course that doesn't matter if the road is gated, in which case it's an extra mile of road for flanders, and 3 miles of road for the climbs like high fidelity and slight of hand.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
No avy danger as per:http://national-map.jhavalanche.org/iframe.php?center=GNFAC

We are driving to the Grotto Falls Trailhead. I am hoping that is go to go.
Never been here before. PURE ADVENTURE!
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jan 2, 2013 - 02:12am PT
Hey Couchmaster, what happened to Smitty? I hadn't heard.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jan 2, 2013 - 10:00am PT
Shotgun to the head @ 1987 ish Mike? Rogers ashes got scattered up at Angles Rest by his lady Kathy and some friends. I regret I had to work that day and couldn't get it off.

Roger had been on a self imposed all natural, all uncooked, Veg diet ever since his fall off the very top of Rooster Rock headfirst into the Columbia River. The river was at record high levels and he was stuck headfirst in the mud with a broken neck. A young couple nearby gently pulled him out and floated him over to the shore.

The fall, which must have been @1969-70 somewhere had caused all kinds of broken bones and health issues which later morphed into arthritis in every joint he had. Roger was told he'd be in a wheelchair by the time he was 30. Then he's walking past the stacks in a book store and sees a health food diet book written by an old black guy that suggests eating ONLY raw uncooked vegetables is the key to the fountain of youth. It may have been, I was once soloing Mount Hood in the days when I was guiding and up there a lot and in shape. In the early morning gloom I see another way over also heading up. I tried to match his pace but was unable to. Later I learned it was Rog, he'd seen me, didn't recognize who I was and didn't want company. On later climbs together I learned how good of shape he was in, amazing. The diet helped a lot in keeping the pain away but as he aged (into his 30's or so) it crept back and he'd admit to it. I didn't climb a lot with Roger but we did some rock and some mountains together.

But either the diet or the prolific drugs he took as a youth, caused some rage to come out on occasion of what was an otherwise absurdly mellow guy and one day, he just couldn't handle the combo of pain and rage and did himself in. RIP Roger.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
IT'S FAT!!!! Awesome day. Pics later.

Couchmaster sorry to hear about Rodger.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
We did some PG 13 at Genesis area. Mountain Project says these are WI 3+.
Didn't seem that hard. It was fairly picked out which was OK by me. We both led one and toproped a bunch. Our first day we thought we would ease into the week.

Weather is perfect. Having the time of our lives
Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Anchor at top of Genesis
Anchor at top of Genesis
Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman



At the end of the day the Jacuzzi
At the end of the day the Jacuzzi
Credit: Plaidman
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 3, 2013 - 12:06am PT
IF you like Mexican or Thai food, try the spot about half a block past the mountaineering store.
http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-parrilla-bozeman-3

Fish tacos are the BOMB! So was Khan Burrito. It is amazing food really. At least to my taste.

What hotel is that? Seems like you guys are enjoying yourselves! Nice!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
Another sweet day. Got a WI3 lead done first thing this morning. Felt like the rope gun. Really not that big of a deal. it was just smokin fun. Had the GoPro on for that lead. 6 screws on Siwitchback Falls. Just fun. Love placin screws. WILD!
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Jan 4, 2013 - 12:04am PT


Pete Tapley gettin' it done in HC--a Deadrocker, at that :-)





edit: That Scepter video was gnarly--I was on the crux (seconding, thankfully) of Green Gully for a 19 second avalanche "flush". Keep the tools in and the head down...
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 12:55am PT
Vitaliy M. - We are staying at the Best Western PLUS!!!! This has to one of the greatest vactions EVER!!!
Great weather. No wind. Temps good for ice formation. So fresh ice! No avy danger. Or at least not enough to worry much.

We are getting plenty of ice. Tomorrow we are going to see if we can take it up a notch. Haven't had to clip off a tool on any of our leads yet.

Best ice I have been on in a long time. Another day in paradise.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 4, 2013 - 01:18am PT
Nice! My ol' stompin' grounds. Have a pickel barrel sammy or a pork chop john's for me!

Bar-muda Triangle!

Genesis, Hyalite 1984
Genesis, Hyalite 1984
Credit: Brian in SLC
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
Last climb was today. Rocked it on Hangover.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 6, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
Get it done Pladman! I'm suffering thru some sunny rock climbing in Sedona.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 6, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
hey there say, plaidman...

just stopped in to see how you were doing...

wonderful pictures! looks all fine...
some of not loaded, but many have...


hey there to mojede, too!
rooting for you, as well...


vitaliy, thanks for the very impressive picture of ice..

and to old man:

very good reminder to take care, as to avalances...
thank you so much...

(did not see it, but am reminded to pray)


prayers for you all,
god bless for the trips home, as well..
:)
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
Felt the vibes neebee.

Thanks Jim for the !

We had the best weather EVER! We got 9 routes done. I personally set 34 ice screws on my leads. We swung leads with Rick leading the first one of the morning on one day. Then I would lead the first one the next day. Five days of pure bliss. We climbed Genesis 1 and then Genesis 2. Switchback Falls, Fat Chance, Mummy 2, Then I led Genesis 1 straight up. We climbed Twin Falls in two pitches to get the alpine mult-pitch feel. Really it just made it more fun cause we both got to lead a pitch. Then today was Genesis 2 for Ricks lead, then I got to lead Hangover in free flowing wet conditions. I had to move fast so I didn't get car washed.

Plaid
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jan 7, 2013 - 01:18am PT
awesome!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 06:58am PT
Thx Munge. It was really just a PG13 trip.

Vitality did The Scepter.WI4
I would have to grow a third nut to get on that one.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jan 7, 2013 - 07:26am PT
Nice photos, I felt a tiny movement of my long dormant ice-climbing mojo.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 07:50am PT
Go to Hyalite. You will have a blast. Locals are way chill and it is only going to get fatter. Road stays open till March 31st
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jan 7, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
is there a good local shop for ice climbing-specific gear like screws, picks, Screamers? I take it Barrel is defunct. does REI have anything?
WyoRockMan

Trad climber
Flank of the Bighorns
Jan 7, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
MS-

Try Northern Lights in Bozeman:
http://www.northernlightstrading.com/
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
Go to ProLite
Address 421 West Griffin Suite 1
Bozeman, Montana 59715

Shane and Nick are super awesome. Great customer service and just a lot of fun to talk to.

We bought a couple of Grivel screws. Great price!

http://www.prolitegear.com/customerservice.html
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
Time to update the beta. What's up in Hyalite? I'll be there at the end of next week.
Got the Window Rock cabin January 1 - 5 . Hotel for the first few nights

Plaid
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Dec 19, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
Plaid take a few photos of the cabin if you get a chance. I would love to see what it looks like.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
Sure will get some pics of the hooligans. This trip is going to be a riot!
Pics of the cabin will be.a must.

Plaid
Urizen

Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 20, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
Hey, Plaidman, I stayed in that cabin during the festival last winter. You'd better take your own lantern or other lighting; the one in the cabin sucks. Also, if I were going back there I'd bring a 12" length of 6" stove pipe with a damper in it, because there isn't one in place, so the oven never got up to biscuit temperature. Speaking of which: firing that woodstove before breakfast requires an alpine start!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
Thx for the beta. I'll have track down that stove pipe. We got
Lights so we will bring um. How about the wood supply?

Plaid
Urizen

Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 20, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
There was plenty of firewood, with a pretty stout and not terribly dull splitting axe.
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
Dec 23, 2013 - 10:55am PT
Hey Plaidman!

Keep abreast of the weather and snowpack. A bunch of new on top of crappy layers is what is happening this week.

Have fun!

http://www.mtavalanche.com/
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
Thx man! We will keep a look out and bring a big shovel. Seriously though we will stay out of the canyon if the conditions suck

Plaid
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2013 - 11:00am PT
Just got this report from
Craig Pope our rope gun:
Íl be there the night if 1st. Got a TON of climbed lined up. big sleep is in. Airborne Ranger was close, Come and Get it was in, Mummy III/IV is in, and Winter Dance is the highest priority cause it about the ONLY one u haven't sent. Good season up there! Let's get after it!

Plaid
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
Dec 24, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
Get some of that Winter Dance! All of us light weights can't get enough pics of that climb!

Check out some of this years pics:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/winter-dance/108473812
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Conrad said I should put it on the list. We got GoPro's one for each of us. Video and pics. Maybe I should pack some extra underwear or just wear a pair of Depends. I may crap my drawers on that one. I will do my war cry. I scream William Wallace at the top of my lungs. That usually gets my blood up.
Credit: Plaidman
Credit: Plaidman

Plaid
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 24, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
You are going to be guided by Craig Pope? Should be an interesting trip. Please post some photos of conditions up there. I am supposed to go in Feb. Conditions will change, but need stoke!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
Craig answered my call out on FB when I let folks know we had room in our cabin. Craig climbs way harder that us. He's not our guide. We were hoping he would put up something for us when we run outta gas.

As for Feb. Hyalite only gets better as the season rolls on.

Plaid
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
Dec 26, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
Winter Dance to Big Sleep link up. Warning, ice porn.

http://vimeo.com/81886080
BMartin

Ice climber
Bozeman, MT
Dec 26, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
The Dance
The Dance
Credit: BMartin

Hyalite is going off this season! Come get in on the action folks.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
Leaving PDX on Saturday at 4am. Will there the 28th- January 5 th. Leave some for us. We are hungry. Very hungry, for some bass ass scary ice climbing.

Plaid
thebravecowboy

Social climber
Colorado Plateau
Dec 26, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
BUMP! For Plaidman's palpable stoke for the ice!
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Dec 26, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
Anybody old enough to remember before Alex sent "Winter Dance" it was actually known to locals as "The Fang" ???
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2013 - 12:26am PT
Kicking ass in Hyalite

Credit: Plaidman
Credit: Plaidman
Partner led Switch Back Falls. Top roped 3x.
Then I led Fat Chance at WI 3+ That's our warm up day.
Hernia repair is holding up. Survived day one.
Got 6 days to go. Taking it up a notch tomorrow.
Elevator Shaft and Fat One in the morning.

Plaid
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
The Thrill Is Gone M4 WI4 35 m <br/>
We passed on this one. Maybe later in...
The Thrill Is Gone M4 WI4 35 m
We passed on this one. Maybe later in the week
Credit: Plaidman

Elevator Shaft WI4
Elevator Shaft WI4
Credit: Plaidman
We climbed Elevator Shaft. I top roped it twice and then wanted to lead Fat One.
Too long of a line. We made it a short day. We will hit it again tomorrow

Plaid
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
Conditions in Hyalite. Beyond fat .
Led a sick fat Palisade Falls.
45 meters. Super chill. Maybe WI 3+ the way I led it. #%^€ing love ice climbing!

Credit: Plaidman


Plaid
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 31, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Great shots!

Led my first pitch there in '82...
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
This a pic of a happy Plaid!
Taken just after my lead.
Credit: Plaidman
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Dec 31, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
Did you get a free bowl of soup with that helmet or are you just happy to see me?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 31, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
Thrill Is Gone looks pretty nice! Fatter than last year for sure.

Thrill is Gone &#40;M4&#41;
Thrill is Gone (M4)
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Starting up Thrill Is Gone &#40;wi4 m4&#41;
Starting up Thrill Is Gone (wi4 m4)
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Thin one looks FATTTT. Last year in early season it was seriously a scary fking lead!

Thin Chance &#40;wi4, but in thin&#41; on the way back
Thin Chance (wi4, but in thin) on the way back
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Can't wait to go already....

You guys should do Dribbles! I think it is the most enjoyable climb out there. With possibility of a route being from wi3/+ to 5 if one chooses a direct line.

The Dribbles &#40;450ft, WI4&#41;
The Dribbles (450ft, WI4)
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Dribbles and Silken falls from Cleo's
Dribbles and Silken falls from Cleo's
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
Studly you should be here Ben and Geoff are on their way.
As for my helmet it is a ski helmet that has a clip that will hold my goggles.
Besides I'm not making a fashion statement. Get your butt out here and
get some of this fat ice.

Leading The Thrill Is Gone M4 WI 4, in the morning.
Feeling good and feeling strong. Super psyched!

Plaid
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2014 - 01:11am PT
This was the pic from my on sight of The Thrill Is Gone
M4 WI4

Got in 4 pieces of gear and 11 ice screws. Got it clean.
Plaid on The Thrill Is Gone
Plaid on The Thrill Is Gone
Credit: Plaidman

During our whole trip
We got 5 leads each. I placed 40 ice screws and my partner placed 29.
We climbed 11 waterfalls and top roped most of them 3x.
Not bad for a cripple just recovering from hernia surgery on December 2nd.
We did all that and hiked 14 miles in 7 days

Plaid
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
Jan 16, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
Way to get after it Plaidman!

A cool brief retrospective on Hyalite climbing:

http://www.theclymb.com/stories/featured-stories/pioneering-ice/
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 16, 2014 - 10:57pm PT
What kind of gear does the thrill is gone take. Headed that way this weekend. Will get up in hyalite for a day or two and a day at bridger. Send me an email if anyone wants to do some climbing or drink some beers.
Rocky IV

Social climber
Jan 16, 2014 - 11:27pm PT
the thrill takes everything, however with how insanely fat it is this year I'd guess a small selection of nuts and maybe 2-3 cams would be more than enough to get where you can place screws. It's in a chimney so you can't get pumped. Keep in mind that with the high pressure and blue bird skies it'll be getting sunbaked. Screws might melt out if you're climbing slowly.

Enjoy it, one of the best climbs in Hyalite!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2014 - 01:49pm PT
Conditions update please. Most want to get on Cleopatra's Needle.
Don't know how I am going to pay for the gas to get out there.
It will be a rough trip. Over the weekend. Drive on Friday night all night.
Climb Saturday. Then get right back in the car and drive back to be at work on Monday morning.
May not seem worth it. Call me crazy. Got to get more ice at whatever the cost.

Plaid
Aerili

climber
SLC, Utah
Feb 13, 2014 - 06:52pm PT
I, too, would like a conditions update of as this week. Thanks in advance.
Rocky IV

Social climber
Feb 14, 2014 - 01:53am PT
Cleos is huge. Airborne ranger reformed a few days ago.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Mar 20, 2014 - 10:22am PT
They are plowing this week, AND closing the gate at the dam for the remainder of the season--foot/ski/bike travel is permitted beyond that point...
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2014 - 11:57am PT
The ICE is calling!
Pick up the phone!

Plaid
Crown Jewel - Crown Point - Columbia River Gorge - Oregon
Crown Jewel - Crown Point - Columbia River Gorge - Oregon
Credit: Plaidman
Nosrekrulcm Ykrul

climber
a state of mind
Nov 4, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
Cold wet and scared is no way to go through life, unless you are an alpinist...
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2014 - 07:00pm PT
Hyalite is gunna get colder!!!!
Thursday Night A chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 7.
Friday A chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 19.
Yea!!!!
Build up in layers of ice blue fatness!

Plaid

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-110.96096&lat=45.47227#.VJS9rB_AJR
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Dec 19, 2014 - 08:13pm PT
need photos of Hyalite radness
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
Plaid on sight of "The Thrill Is Gone" <br/>
Jan 2014
Plaid on sight of "The Thrill Is Gone"
Jan 2014
Credit: Plaidman

Cleopatra's Needle
Cleopatra's Needle
Credit: Plaidman

Plaid
Rocky IV

Social climber
Dec 21, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
Cleo's still isn't really in. If you are open to considering other routes for your first WI5 put Responsible Family Men at the top of your list. Better position than Cleo's and I think better climbing. Plus, it's super fat this year!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
It's on the list now. Thx Rocky!


Plaid
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
Great time in Hyalite.
Champagne Slot. Fat!!!!!
Champagne Slot. Fat!!!!!
Credit: Plaidman

Champagne Slot. Plaid led. On sight. Clean
Champagne Slot. Plaid led. On sight. Clean
Credit: Plaidman

Thin Chance. Plaid pink point.
Thin Chance. Plaid pink point.
Credit: Plaidman

Mummy 2. Plaid at end of lead. Almost at top in this pic.
Mummy 2. Plaid at end of lead. Almost at top in this pic.
Credit: Plaidman

Elevator Shaft. Plaid lead. Super fat!!!!
Elevator Shaft. Plaid lead. Super fat!!!!
Credit: Plaidman

Mummy2 and The Scepter
Mummy2 and The Scepter
Credit: Plaidman

Champague Sherbert. Rick on lead
Champague Sherbert. Rick on lead
Credit: Plaidman

The way we play the game is each day we swing leads as to who gets the first lead of the day.
I always count how many screws are placed on lead. I figure we are practicing so I place a lot of screws. I wanna be real good at it.
So here is the count and what we got done over the 8 days.
Day 1
Scott 13 screws
led Switchback and Fat Chance
Cleaned Switchback and pink point
Thin Chance
Rick 8 screws
Led Fat Chance and Thin Chance
Pink point Switchback

Day 2
Rick 4 screws
Rick led Dribbles p1 and p2 as one pitch
Scott 10 screws
Scott led Dibbles headwall in one 75m pitch to the rap tree.

Day 3
Rest Day

Day 4
Scott 9 screws
Scott led Elevator Shaft
Then top roped 3 variations and cleaned the anchor

Rick 7 screws
Rick led Elevator Shaft
Top roped 2 variations

Day 5
Rick 5 Screws
Rick led Hang Over

Scott 14 screws
Scott led Hang Over and G2 direct
Scott top roped G2 left side

Day 6

Met Dustin Nick and Matt
Scott 9 screws
Scott led Mummy 2
Rick followed and cleaned

Scott and Rick top roped
The Scepter

Day 7

Rick 10 screws
Rick led Champagne Sherbert

Scott 10 screws
Scott led Champagne Slot

Day 8

Got skunked. Palisade Falls was collapsed. Went looking for Alpha and Omega. Got lost. Ended up on main road. Joe Josephson, the author of the guide book "Winter Dance", recognized me by my hat, stopped and gave us a ride to our car.

Total this trip.
Scott 8 leads
Rick 6 leads
65 screws placed on lead for Scott to 34 for Rick.
Hiked about 25 to 30 miles to get to all the climbs.

Plaid

Hoots

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 20, 2015 - 08:11pm PT
Right on Scott! Stoked that you got a good trip in. That Alex Lowe quote always seems to sum you up- the climber having the most fun. Good on ya!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
Thx Hoots! Yeah. If there is fun to be had. I'll find it for sure.

Plaid
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 20, 2015 - 08:33pm PT
Nice plaid heading back with jack for his birthday on Presidents' Day. Gave me some ideas. Mike.

I thought mummy II was harder than dribbles. How were elevator shaft and champaign sherbet in comparison. Also have you done the fat one.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 08:39pm PT
Mike check this out for conditions report:
Southwest Montana Ice Conditions
https://www.facebook.com/groups/401228096671380/permalink/622292114564976/
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 08:51pm PT
Mike
Dribbles was harder on the Headwall in the condition it was in. Not picked out. No feet. It was really hard. Mummy was easier for me. I was more dialed by then.
Elevator shaft was fat. No too picked out. The Fat One seemed not worth doing. Real short with long WI 2 finish. It's in your face to start, then it's over. Champagne Sherbert was hard but I didn't lead it. Champagne Slot and Sherbert were worth the walk. And Slight of Hand is one we didn't get to but is supposed to be off the hook WI4 fun according to Joe J.

Plaid
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
Jan 21, 2015 - 08:39am PT
Great trip Plaid! Thanks for sharing.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
Thx WyoRockMan!
If I could climb ice all the time that is all I'd EVER do.
It is scream'n scary fun'!!!!
I place lots of screws but we always say don't fall!
EVER!!!
Led every climb with no rests. No takes. Cruised Em all.
Still didn't get the elusive WI5.
It was there. I'm almost ready. Leading WI4+ strong.
That lead on Dribbles was a long one. 75m. Good thing we had the 80m rope.
We had to break trail in neck deep drifted snow up hill, just to get to the base.
My partner was so pissed off. He melted down and threatened to turn around.
I took over breaking trail and screamed "YOU ...GOT ...TO ...REALLY ....WANT IT"!!!!
As I beat at the snow over my head as I pushed my way forward.
I almost needed a snorkel.
His lead first. I got the crux on the Headwall. He stole my pitch by linking the first two.
I didn't think I had it in me. But banged out the headwall in style. Then caught my breath and broke thru another drift of deep snow. I hoped it wouldn't slide out from underneath me.
I was ready to self arrest at any moment.
Sucked it up screamed "William Wallace"!!! At the top of my lungs and knocked out the final WI3 finish.

So good! Best climb of the trip.

Plaid
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