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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 31, 2012 - 08:38am PT
Just a heads up FRANKTOWN FALLS may be in condition this week through at least weds/thurs..


This STILL awaits a second ascent from 1978...


Paul Crafton coming up over the lip of the vertical sec below  140 fee...
Paul Crafton coming up over the lip of the vertical sec below 140 feet long..
Credit: Ron Anderson



on the top easy ground of franktown falls..
on the top easy ground of franktown falls..
Credit: Ron Anderson


Credit: Ron Anderson


The willows on the right in the pic were used to rap into the hole to start the vert section..


Temps for the next few days will be single digits for lows--It will be in great shape..

This is a RARE NEVADA frozen fall- at probably the lowest altitude of them all. Hidden in a tight canyon at 5300'..Just above washoe valley to the west.. If you want a nice waterfall,, NO CROWDS and very good thick ice with bulges - a vert section followed by a nice 50 degree top section for about 140' then this is the easiest bet there is for Reno/Carson/Gville climbers..


the temp went to 7 this am just as the sun rose..
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Dec 31, 2012 - 09:09am PT
Well, someone better get after it while it lasts!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Dec 31, 2012 - 09:10am PT
I'm game, anyone else interested?
I've got everything, even a 2nd set of tools and crampons, but you need at least a tad bit of ice experience.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 09:15am PT
for anyone serious,, take FRanktown road off of OLD 395 in washoe valley- at the NORTH juntion of Franktown rd -- go south on franktown then a right onto OLDS RANCH rd - take that to the top of scattered houses and find a place to park at the top of that hill. Hike directly west over the top of the short rise (avaoiding residential property) and DROP into the canyon-and franktown creek-- The falls start at some large outcrops of granite and the approach should only take 30 minutes or so.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 31, 2012 - 09:24am PT
Hmm looks WI3-4ish eh? Fun!

Grr..... I lost one of my crampons during a move. But hey I'm available Wednesday if someone is going. I can certainly belay slave and take pics. Hell mebbe I'll go for it with one crampon lol

Edit

hey Berg looks like you got the stuff I need. Been a few years for me on Ice so not up for leads ATM, but I grew up with it BITD in Alaska. If Wednesday works I'd love to go.
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Dec 31, 2012 - 09:27am PT
I'm available tomorrow if anyone is interested in rope gunnin' it. Have own pair of tools/boots/pons.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Dec 31, 2012 - 10:01am PT
Wednesday or Friday are the best for me and I'll take a stab at the lead.
I need an earlish start, say meeting at 8 am as I need to be back at work by 1p. Where is a good place to meet in that area? I'll be coming from South Lake.


Climb2ski.... lets treat it like its RIPPLE!!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Dec 31, 2012 - 10:05am PT
Ron, does it get much sun?
Is the access an issue or are the houses easy to avoid?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 10:13am PT
The last time i was up there --there was still access between lots off of olds ranch road. The falls themselves see only an hour or two of sun on the top section, none on the bottom this time of year. But the sun can warm the creek upstream of the falls if it warms too much.. Early starts are good. The falls face North.. Ill try to post a google earth photo of the area..
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 31, 2012 - 10:18am PT
"most important tool for a Cali ice climber is a fast car"
someone said that
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 31, 2012 - 10:23am PT
I am surprised it was not climbed last year.?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 10:35am PT
Credit: Ron Anderson



Ive identified possible parking areas as well as the general area of the falls..



EDIT: the actual falls may be slightly more towards the lower left corner of the pic- than my gen area indicates...




edit: Mtrophy,, this is a hidden thing- and has remained so for a long time.. Seems to have stayed local knowledge for ever lol!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 31, 2012 - 11:14am PT
Hey berg sounds great. Pm your number through this forum I'll call this evening and we can figure it out.

Ripple too cool, I was thinking of it immediately when I saw Rons pics... brings back memories of some good days in Eklutna Canyon.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 11:20am PT
you guys can go to google earth to look closer- at the houses -properties etc. hard to pick out the actual falls from the arial view though- but in fairly close. If one stays along the top of the ridge- looking down into the creek canyon, the large out crops at the top of the fall will be obvious..There is a large FLAT "lunch rock" at the top right side of the fall- a place where we used to do over-nighter partys ..It was a regular hang bitd..




Credit: Ron Anderson


Red circle indicates where i THINK it is on google earth
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Dec 31, 2012 - 11:39am PT
How tall is the lower steeper part? Wondering if it would be a reasonable solo?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 31, 2012 - 11:43am PT
Man, yous guys are desperate! Icy chaparral, indeed!

Sent from my iPhone in Norge
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 11:50am PT
as far as the rating of it,,,i NEVER knew diddly poop about Ice ratings.. Some of them were HARD, others SCARY and some FUN..3 ratings is all i ever needed !


So in that light, the bottom of the route was a bit scary -vert-with bulges then the top half was fun- rolling bulges going up a 50 degree granite ramp.

Gear used during the FA : Salewa hinged crampons - Lowa Alpspitz boots, Chouinard super gators, smc customized axe, chounaird alpine hammer/tool (customized), Salewa ice screws and even an OLD Stubai "corkscrew".


Edit: the lower section in 50 to 60' and the upper is about the same.. Even in good condition, one will hear water running inside on normal water years.



So hers a little story,, of the FA in 1978. We met in the wee hours, Paul Crafton, Greg Bergren and myself. At arriving in the parking area, i was still somewhat groggy. So i decided to take a CROSS TOP,, remember those? So we start hiking, and somewhere near the top of the slight ridge on the approach,,i began to break into a sweat!!! It was like ZERO,, fresh snow and my head is running like niagra falls,, and my heart began to beat like a base drum.. I finally take off my coat,, lay down in the snow and begin to cover myslef in an attempt the thwart the ill affects of that speed! Yup,, im rolling around in the snow while my buddies begin to wonder if im gonna croak-LMAO!! So I countered it with a bowl of ganja- and soon im on an "even keel" as it were. Twas THE last time i ever took one of those bad boyz...

Approach beta: When descending into the canyon, at the top of the falls- carefully cross the top at the outcrops- a belay may be needed, then head down the western side of the falls and rap from trees or willows down into the "hole" of the bottom of the falls to start the route. Or hike along the west side of the canyon until you can scramble down into the creek..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
bump- for time critical factor-
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 31, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
I'll bring all my irrigation hose.....place will be ouraaaaaay in a week!
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 31, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
I think its called irritation hose

hows the kid???
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 09:28am PT
Well, today through the next five or so, daytime temps will be into the 40s-
So,,,,getterdone quick, or wait till the next big freeze...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 2, 2013 - 09:43am PT
I wanna see pics from the current ascent! Post em up bergbryce!
TruckeeTrustafari

Social climber
GLACIER WAY
Jan 2, 2013 - 10:38am PT
PICS OR DIDN'T HAPPEN!


-6 this morning on my way into work. Brr...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 10:55am PT
I WISH i could be sure of the condition--little valley gts sun - which is above the falls, and the creek is steep as it drops into the valley.. Thinkin its in now,, and HOPING that they can get parking- it would be really cool to see that falls get a second ascent ,,,after THIRTY FIVE years lol!




gawld-darn,,, THIRTY FIVE YEARS??????
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 2, 2013 - 11:23am PT
I would do it if I lived closer. No matter if it gets a 2nd or 3rd or 4th soon, I will do it some day just for the lulz. Ice tends to b a little different every year, even every week or day at times. Seems like a fun outing!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Jan 2, 2013 - 11:24am PT
fyi... there is a plan in place. more later.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Youll have to avoid private property up there.. Even asking permission could be a key? Unsure of the current situation.

and temps are going back up the rest of the week..
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 2, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
It's sucks

I'm not trying to be a dick.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
huh? What sucks?


If you mean its no Widows Tears ,, i am fully aware of that. Been there??
The Old Man

Mountain climber
Jan 2, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
huh? What sucks?

It's
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 2, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
sorry {it}

Access sucks

I don't like trespassing.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 2, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Kinda hard up for ice back there...it would appear.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 2, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
Thus why I sold my old tools years ago and haven't bothered to buy new ones. Anyway that does look like fun. An easy warmup solo BITD.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 07:34am PT
we arent hard up for ice here- coldstream canyon, echo, kirkwood, emerald canyon etc etc etc.

This is simply a hidden little jewel of a climb near the valley floor that has had only one known ascent ever.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 3, 2013 - 07:50am PT
Yeah....but do you have any steep ice? Went to Lee Vining a few years ago.....kind of low angle.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 07:53am PT
Yep- try Kirkwood,,or Coldstream,, or the Inertia tube at Emerald canyon- dead vert stuff for a lot of it..long climbs like Maggies Peak and others as well. And of course, Carson Pass has several totally hidden things that often bleed perfect smooth blue ice.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 3, 2013 - 07:57am PT
Great.....maybe I'll come out some day. Who knows....perhaps I can draw the "inner liberal" out of you?
Heading to Sedona on Saturday for three days of sunny rock!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 3, 2013 - 08:00am PT
Seen some lines in Kirkwood that were steep but access across property seemed questionable. Climbed everything in Eagle Lake (Emerald Canyon?) short or low angle even put in 3 bolt M7 there. Lee Vining isn't steep enough for the drive and hike.

Stuff here is rarely thick (excluding LV) and in your face. It tends to be obscure and feel like you are scratching for stuff while dreaming of Valdez.

Left Alaska for the Rock down here but ice here is like Rockclimbing in the chugach. Yeah it exists and some of it is actually fun but it ain't exactly an ice climbers dream.

Anycase have something lined up for Rons climb.. cause it does look fun.

Then again perhaps I just did not hook up with the right locals when I got here. Ron has certainly listed some stuff I never heard of.

Cool! Mebbe it's time to get some of these new fangled leashless tools
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 3, 2013 - 08:10am PT
You guys have any pics of lines around angora lake/kirkwood area?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 08:12am PT
Stewart Johnson ( ALPINE STEWIE) and crew have done several fine steep ass lines at Kirkwood, as well as pioneering Maggies peak and many others, He is the go to guy for ICE info round here.!

Somwhere in here is another ice thread with lots of pics from Stewie and others..And JD,, my liberal side is always near the surface.. For SOME things..;-)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 08:17am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1656967&tn=80
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 3, 2013 - 10:40am PT
The last 1/2 mile of old ranch road is posted no trespassing. The dirt road at the end is chained off. However this leads to a water tower from what I can see. Does this make the road itself public access? I am guessing not.

Otherwise the option is to travel along the ridge next to the drainage about a mile and 500vert from will sauer road. Not sure if it is posted also.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 10:54am PT
dang,, looks like if you start at the turn on will Sauer where it trends to the north, you can get up on the ridge and follow it over towards the water tank area then down into the drainage..I know folks still hike in the summer up there,, from somewhere..!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 3, 2013 - 11:05am PT
While u guys are waiting that thing probably melted away already. It got much warmer per the weather report. Good luck!

And a good other thread bump. I almost forgot about that steep needle by emerald bay. Oh man it looks awwwwwesome!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 11:21am PT
inversion is still present,, right now the valley is colder than the lake.

Sorry the access is so screwy- !!!!!!!!!!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 11:38am PT
Credit: Ron Anderson


perhaps this approach???? From Will Sauer? Ive not been on that road.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 3, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
That is my plan Ron


Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
May the force be with you.. If you find someone to talk with , be nice and explain the history and the climb to them a little- it could go a long ways..;-)

I was just our back, fairly warm on the southern exposure clock tickin and all. Once it warms above the falls, the force of the descending water blows her out. North side ice drools off the roof are frozen solid though.

That pic i posted, was late in the day on a warming trend similar to this. Early am conditions were much better..

Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 3, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
That road has a gate on it.

The Ice is good in tahoe
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 3, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
hey there say, ron..

thanks for the interesing share :)

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 4, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
Hey Ron here ya go man!

Bergbryce and I had a fun time! Not as nicely formed as it was for you. Lotta water running under which made us avoid the thin hollow middle areas. Nice morning, beautiful little spot like so much of Tahoe area. The top half was snowed up. Think Berg will post more.

Bergbryce on lead!






Rapped in to the bottom from here.
wilbeer

Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
Jan 4, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
looks great,thanks for the share.
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Jan 4, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
Killer.Way to be persistent guys.Proud!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
Whoa--looky there! Nice goin DOOOODS! the conditions are sure different but - its been done again after all these years! Hard to gauge what it would be like.

Looking forward to the story of the approach!

bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Jan 4, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
Here's some more content on Climbski2 and I's outing....

Although the conditions were less than perfect it was a fun outing. The taco stand totally hooked it up by both the beta on the climb (thanks Ron!) and a solid partner. Despite the cold temps, the water was still flowing mightily which made for some really interesting ice formations (more on that later).

The approach....
Beautiful morning making the cruise down the hill into Carson Valley
Hwy 50 above Carson City
Hwy 50 above Carson City
Credit: bergbryce

(edited)
If you want specs on the approach contact myself of Climbski2 via PM. It's slightly questionable at this point although the climb itself is on NFS land.

It was still chilly and as promised, the falls sit in a sheltered, cool spot. So cool there is some impressive surface hoar forming.

Washoe Valley surface hoar, north facing slopes.
Washoe Valley surface hoar, north facing slopes.
Credit: bergbryce

Our trail was eventually abetted considerably by what we thought was a nice, trail breaking bear. The tracks actually led very close to the climb and we were more than happy to follow them. Our assumption that it was a bear was confirmed on the way out when we came across them again.
Bear track in the snow.  I think he knew which day was garbage day.
Bear track in the snow. I think he knew which day was garbage day.
Credit: bergbryce

After following the bear tracks for awhile we began to hear flowing water. We made our way towards it and found the falls. Initially it looked pretty grim. The only climbable line appeared to be on the right side but Climbski2 suggested taking a closer look at the left side which ended up holding the route we took.

The entire climb is in there somewhere.  You can see some of the ice s...
The entire climb is in there somewhere. You can see some of the ice steps. The bottom right was open water with a heavy flow of water.
Credit: bergbryce

We rapped in to the bottom per Climbski2's pic. There was a huge, nice platform to start from with a large pool of open water next to it. The ice was good at the bottom but painfully short. Fortunately this line offered more challenges than the steepness of the ice.
From the base.
Real ice in Nevada!  Only painfully short.   <br/>
Good sticks though.
Real ice in Nevada! Only painfully short.
Good sticks though.
Credit: bergbryce

You can see where the open pool was in the bottom right of the previous picture. The shiny looking parts of the ice are sections of very thin ice made of spray. Each had a firehose of water spraying behind it which actually made the climbing a lot more exciting.
Our route went into the snice left of the actual ice once above the initial blob. This was also made more interesting as I think I was basically climbing on ice crusted willow branches with some snow plastered onto it. The ice was thin at that point and falling through there would not have been good.

Here are some more pics of the strange ice formations we found...

Hollow "pillar"
Hollow "pillar"
Credit: bergbryce

This "pillar" is probably .5 inch thick and enclosed the main flow of water. You can see this feature in the upper right of the previous pic. It was really cool to look at but would not have supported a climber.

After a tiny bit of real ice, a bit of snice/frozen willows/snow there was a short section of steep snow and then the real fun, a mixed section!

I saw the perfect belay stance which was a huge tree just entering the sun about 70' above where the ice ended. It ended up being a fun section involving show excavation, gardening, crampon scraping, blind hooking and general winter funness.

The excavation/gardening section.
The excavation/gardening section.
Credit: bergbryce

After Climbski2 got up we completed a very ice climbing-like rap through lots of snow, much of it which went down the back of my shirt, through lots of brush and in a cold, shady area. We both agreed the effort was well worth it despite the climb not being in the best form.

We hiked out sharing stories of mutual climbing friends we had from Anchorage, following the friendly bear tracks once again.

Really pretty up there right now.
Washoe Valley of Nevada, January 2013.
Washoe Valley of Nevada, January 2013.
Credit: bergbryce

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
thanks for the TR! Sorry the conditions were such- but ya got what you could out of it. I thought it might be way better than our ascent. Ours went from the creek bottom to the crags on the left at the top. But there was a lot less snow bitd..Perhaps thats a critical diff right now..

But non the less your probably the second ever sets of ice tools to nick it! So bonus "unique" points!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:18pm PT
Ice is nice and should suffice.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
I do remember well the water running under neath the ice on the bottom section when we did it, but the top was THICK ice all the way to the top.

Maybe after a little melt it will form up better..?
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Jan 4, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
I think it's got too much water flowing right now. If it had less volume, it might have a better chance at forming something continuous. It's got a lot of snow on it too. The upper parts probably have more ice but were buried in some places waist deep.

I also get the feeling it forms up semi-regularly, at least whenever there is a cold snap of maybe 5 nights in single digits, which might not happen that often down there. It's got a perfect setting and that canyon doesn't get a bit of sun right now.
I've certainly got the ice bug and it looks like the next week or so is supposed to be good for it!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
well done! cool report!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
Yeah,, the winter of 77/78 was DRY as i remember now- so there was most likely far less of a flow, judging by your pic and mine- But good job on weaseling in there!


I truly thought it might be even better and Bigger- feckin ice..;-)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jan 4, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
well done men!

Superb contribution on all fronts!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 11:51am PT
I did send emails to both guys,, apologies for the condition of the ice- i was truly thinking after the dry summer that the flow would be similar to the FA, but,, it didnt even resemble those conditions. Too much flow? froze to quickly? combination? Ice has always puzzled me. Any one with some falls beta out there?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 9, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
Ron since you did not give perfect beta about the waterfall we want our money back for watching this thread. Also their Second Ascent does not count. They have to do it some other year now. LOL
As I understand waterfalls form differently every year and it depends on MANY things. So first second third or w/e ascent, they can be different even 2-3 days after you climbed the route. That's why ice climbing is so cool- the location of the climb is known, but what you gonna get there is usually a mystery. Especially in CA!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
Well the falls at cascade are normally predictable even the kirkwood stuff seems easier to predict. Cold stream, even the flume leaks in the truckee canyon are quite predictable. It almost makes me wonder if the rock on the top of the falls has changed? It used to be a fifty five degree ramp of smooth granite for thirty feet or so above the vertical bottom drop of about fifty feet. Guess ill have too look this coming summer - it may be just the flow..



And their ascent most definitely counts,,there was ice, and the mixed climbing and the scheming of the approach and the walking around with a hungry bear = bonifide 2ND evah...Its quite the hidden little spot to get into nowdays- we used to park by the water tower, and it was ten minutes to the falls. Friggin houses and five acre parcels and such make that approach far more difficult.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 9, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
Hey Ron no worries, Had a great morning up there. A beautiful little spot, Always enjoy checking out someplace new. And hey we did get to climb some ice! In Nevada not Cali! Which I think is the first time I have done that lol

Basically the problem at the moment is too much water flow and a good snow year. Temps were good for formation last week. The flow is making the middle into open water or very shaky thin stuff over heavy running flow. The right side was pure cauliflower mist aggregate. The snow covered the upper ice. We had about 10' of near vertical, 20 feet of steep 50ish deg, then snow on lower angled stuff then we cut right up a steep little mixed (no ice really) gully about 15 feet.

Some ice climbs are very predictable and consistent, Others are like this one .. quite variable. Both of us suspect it forms nicely on low snow years when it gets cold enough for a few days. It's in a good shaded location.

Again no regrets had a great time and met a great new partner!

As far as the approach we simply started lower down the road (at most an extra mile probably a bit less) and walked by the water tower and then across to the little gorge.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Jan 9, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
tfpu
at least you guys got some climbing in.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
Glad ya had a good time anyhow.. I barely recognize it in that shape ! Our approach was from the top at the rock pass as it were the down the right side- rapped from a willow cluster down into the hole which was solid ice at the base and was dead vert for about 45/50 feet of nice steps and bulges then onto the slab part which was rolling 55 degrees to the belay back at the top from the rock on the left. It was rather GORGEOUS ice actually- we were all giddy n shyt when we saw it. Only three lousy pics were taken of the whole stinkin event bitd. I was hoping it would be better for you guys..
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jan 9, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
Sounds like a contrived challenge that I'd be down for any day.

Nice!


Someone should get really British about it and slog up the E face of Tallac, through the cross, and then rap the route.

Training for the greater ranges, right in your backyard.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
the Rubies have some IMPRESSIVE ice climbs,, multi pitch style.






Moquah

Trad climber
Carson City Nevada
Jan 13, 2013 - 08:30am PT
Checked it out yesterday figuring that after all this cold it would be formed up again, but it was still flowing pretty hard, though a line was building up on the left and right side. Brought my gear and was hoping to climb it, but it was too hollow and a fall into the drink would have been grim with the huge cfs. Very cool area and aside from the potential private property issues at the beginning of the slog in. I would have no problem heading over there again if the weather stays cold. Thanks for the beta Ron. I'm wondering though.... how did you guys ever discover this hidden gem?[photo
The top two tiers.
The top two tiers.
Credit: Moquah
id=283854]
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 09:21am PT
Hey nice pic!

How we found this is that we used to do a lot of over nighter camp outs in little valley- which sets above and south of the falls- the creek flows out of little valley and down through that canyon and the falls. Good fishing in little valley for creek brookies and there are boulders up there around as well. But the valley itself is gorgeous, and populated with bears- has a large alpine meadow and great camping.. The trail head to get into little valley proper is on the hill as you travel south on franktown, just before the dairy ranch- a small pull out on the west side of the road is the parking for that trail head.
Moquah

Trad climber
Carson City Nevada
Jan 13, 2013 - 11:30am PT
Ron, Thanks for the beta. Do you think the trailhead is still there? I don't remember seeing any potential access to the NFS land, but I'll take another look next time I'm in the neighborhood. Much of that area seems to have been privatized and cut off. Although if I had the dough for one of those housed back there in the forest I guess I wouldn't complain.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 11:37am PT
Yes the trail head is still there although there is no signs etc.. Its a small pull out at the top of the hill of franktwon road- if traveling from the north end it would be before the dairy ranch just on the south side of the hill..That accesses little valley- above the falls..
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