question about setting climbing goals

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 31 of total 31 in this topic
mike526

Trad climber
schaumburg, il
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 30, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
I have a goal to get my trad level at devils lake up to the 5.8 level this coming year. My question is should I also work on climbing hard sport routes or top rope harder routes, or is concentrating on one thing the best approach. I would love to sport lead an 11 but is working on trad and sport at the same time to much or work against each other in any way.

Mike
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 30, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
do climbs you like or you think you are going to like
do the climbs that are noteworthy at their ratings
but basically climb, and learn from your successes as well as your failures

climb because you have fun climbing

if you are stuck, find someone willing to lead the climb and work on being a good second, apprentice yourself

then when you have the skillz, you can go out and lead those same climbs



That's a trad approach, but it seems to work
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Dec 30, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
An old Venezuelan master helped me install a couple mind knobs many years ago... mine go to 11. I definitely have to fine tune them when I switch back and forth. To push your limits on sport (or TR) you HAVE to be willing to push your limits until you fall, something you don't always want to do tard climbing. But if the tard climb you want to lead takes good protection all the way, you certainly don't need to worry about your "do not fall" knob. Just get strong and confident moving around on rock and have at it.

edit: When I learned to lead trad I would follow anyone on anything. Pay attention to how the pieces are placed as you remove them. Then take a rack and go place a bunch close to the ground. Bounce test each placement and see how it reacts... wear eye protection and be prepared to land on your ass.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 30, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
I would say if you want to have confidence leading trad routes, climb(tr or lower fifth class) as many trad routes as you can.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 30, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
one doesnt "work" "trad" routes really. Learn to place pieces of all types, not just cams. Learn to DOWN CLIMB rather than fall..Top rope HARDER stuff then the 7/8s wont seem so hard
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Dec 30, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
Bouldering will make you strong, sport will give you endurance, trad will give you a good head. DO ALL THREE AND CLIMB LIKE A BEAST.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 31, 2012 - 11:01am PT
Devils Lake, based on my memories, is a tough area to learn trad......protection difficult except for a few crack lines.
Climbing is climbing.....body posistion, balance etc. same whether trad or sport. DL is largely a top rope area, work on your technique, lead the lines available where protection is decent and then...........roadtrip baby!
weezy

climber
Dec 31, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
don't get discouraged by the learning curve. it can be frustrating these days with kids cranking 5.12 after two years of climbing. i took me five years of climbing almost every day before i could lead 5.10 trad solidly. don't get caught up in ratings or numberchasing and realize that you have good days and bad days. you'll cruise a 10b thin crack one day and get spanked on a 5.8 slab the next. don't let it get to you and just keep getting mileage.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 1, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
hey there, say, all...

just a bump for mike526, for more neat info...

darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 1, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
Yeah, Chinchen! I think you gotta do them all to be well-rounded! Nothing better than flexing those bouldering muscles on a longer route! ;)

Bouldering helps with the mental aspects (confidence/fear management) as well!
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Jan 1, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
TRUE DAT!
mike526

Trad climber
schaumburg, il
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
Well if anyone wants an update i bailed off a 5effing4 yesterday. Looking back at it my head got the best of me done the climb million times on TR but once above gear my head was thinking negative thoughts.

Mike
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Apr 7, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
Solo easy stuff and boulder. What easy means is up to you.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Apr 7, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
a successful bail is just that..a success. good job getting out there and back.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 7, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
Not dying is a success!! ;) climb climb climb. Be confident in your gear that it will hold. If you're not become comfortable. Place gear on top rope. Throw a sling on the quickdraw and stand on it. Stand on every one all the way up. Know it will hold.

Then you can let it go and just climb without worry. Donini said it, go somewhere there is lots of easy pro, Red Rocks, The Valley, Squamish. You can place almost anywhere a lot of the time and be confident.

Did i say climb yet?

;)
Good luck. I gotta learn how to climb again too. at least i can still remember how to do it!!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 7, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
Try gabapentin or viagra ;)
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Apr 7, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
The guy is trying to get to the 5.8 level and someone is telling him to solo 'easy' stuff.
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 7, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
It all makes sense.

If you can solo 5.9 it should be easy to lead 5.8 ;)
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Apr 7, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
That's funny :>) THAT'S what I'm talkin about!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 7, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
Okay, here goes...He bailed from 5 EFFING 4!

I've never led 5.4. I skipped it and went directly to 5.7.

Dude, I'm so sorry.

Try harder!

And check the dates on the Viagara or whatever.
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Apr 7, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
Wise man say that it is one thing to push your climbing limits, and to push your protection placement skillset. But it's a bad idea to push your limits at both skills at the same time.

Try gabapentin

aka Neurontin, an anticonvulsent and sedative. Useful when thinking is of little importance. Anyone nuts enough to follow this advice ought to have his head examined. I carry a little black bag, but his shithe ain't in it.
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 7, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
Gabapentin makes you brilliant! I am on it right now. Just read my posts!

;)
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Apr 7, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
I have a goal to get my trad level at devils lake up to the 5.8 level this coming year. My question is should I also work on climbing hard sport routes or top rope harder routes, or is concentrating on one thing the best approach. I would love to sport lead an 11 but is working on trad and sport at the same time to much or work against each other in any way.


After working on that other thread, my reading comprehension has climbed. Do all of the above Mike, but remember that placing pro does not mean the pro will work if you fall. You have to get good at making the pro work and good at taking the time to place enough of it. That can take more endurance of course. Placing as much pro as you would have on most sport climbs will make you feel like a pussy, but that will give you an idea of how much protection most Sport climbs provide. There are lots of people that stuff sh#t into cracks and have no clue about what they are doing.

You can always get better on trad routes by doing the same thing we do bouldering, skipping a hold here and there, but don't skip the pro. Learn pro by practicing placement without evening climbing, and/or learning to aid climb to really see what your pro is doing. After you do all that, then you might understand why a few crazy people Free-Solo, but don't free-solo till you do all of this other crap.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 7, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
Do both, each helps the other. Don't be discouraged, Devils Lake is as sandbagged as they get.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 8, 2013 - 12:12am PT
climb because you have fun climbing

best advice so far.

Go for routes that you get excited about. As others said, bouldering can get you strong. But I think it also can help you with head game when boulders are tall. Do more trad to help you with your head...or go ice climbing lol.

slevin

Trad climber
NYC, NY
Apr 8, 2013 - 12:36am PT
Okay, here goes...He bailed from 5 EFFING 4!
Exposure does all sorts of tricks to your head, especially if the climbing does not feel secure. My old G/F bailed off Squiggles (yup, 5.4) in the Gunks while on an hour earlier she got up the Trashcan Overhang (5.11/V2) on top rope.

Oh, as bouldering goes. Do it, it does make you strong but does nothing for your leading head. I boulder way harder stuff then I would ever lead, even sport. Though, if you are chasing numbers, there are many 5.11/5.12s that are actually boulder problems which continue into an easy route, e.g. Gunks is full of these. Also, bouldering is a door that's pretty hard to close. Once you discover that you can move on rock without the hassle of ropes/racks/belays, you might never go back :D
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:59am PT
If this is the 5.4, i don't blame ya


Hotlinked from mp




donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado

Don't be discouraged, Devils Lake is as sandbagged as they get.
mike526

Trad climber
schaumburg, il
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2013 - 08:35am PT
Big Mike Which route is that kinda looks like it. I bailed off Queens throne of all the climbs. Plenty of pro Lots of good stances, just looked down and was like oh sh#t.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Apr 8, 2013 - 08:41am PT
Lots of folks have been that guy, mike526....I'd say just hang at one of those stances for a minute, set a good nut or whatever, BREATHE, and set off again. Confidence ain't immediate for most people. You must encourage its growth. Just like anything you plant.
It will bloom if you keep after it.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 8, 2013 - 09:51am PT
It's called easy comfort route. And it doesn't look all that easy ;)

Borrowed from mountain project
Borrowed from mountain project
Credit: Tom Anderson-Brown
Queen's Throne is #41


This one looks cool too! Were you comfortable that your gear would hold? Have you played with weighting your gear yet?

justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Apr 8, 2013 - 10:07am PT
"The scariest climb I ever led was 5.4 at J-Tree." ;)

-Anonymous Hard-Man-

Messages 1 - 31 of total 31 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews