Indian Creek- a short story

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Roadie

Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 16, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
A Hard Lesson

It was a hot and relentless summer in Moab, but Lyzz and I were hanging tough, trying to pry a living out of a tourist economy. I was guiding, Lyzz was taking care of rich peopless kids, "trying to instill some values in the little bastards." she called it. Grimm. If you ever get to Moab my advice is this: bring money from someplace else. Anyhow, I'm getting off the point.

It was hot. Brutally hot, and relentless too. Most of our friends had fled, finding jobs in the cooler, more lucrative climes of Telluride or Aspin or some other such foreign parts, but Lyzz and I were hanging tough.

She wasn't my girlfriend or anything, though sometimes I wished she was, especially on those afternoons when we'd go swimming at Mill Creek. Lyzz already had a boyfriend: Linus, old friend, trusted wall partned, fellow seditionist. But that's not what this story is about.

Finally, in August, the rainy season came with those big grey clouds that storm across the sky, colliding like battleships on the warpath. The temps dropped to the low nineties and those winds blowing from far, far away made life seem almost bearable. It was time to go climbing.
Another car crowded the lot when we pulled into the pull out below the Rez Wall. I had my heart set on The Slot Machine, 5.12-. The idea behind Slot Machine is this: you get in this slot, and go like a machine. I'd dressed accordingly: Carharts and a long sleeve shirt. Lyzz was in cut-offs and a tank top.
Sweating up the trail a cry, urgent and heartfelt broke the quiet of the desert morning.

"Kwang-fo! Cham! Kwang-fo!" Japanese? Chinese? Korean? It was anybodies guess.
A tiny figure grappled high up in 'The Slot', hung motionless for a split second and began to fall, pinballing down a long, long ways.
"Huh, what'd'ya' suppose that meant?" I asked Lyzz, as we stopped in the trail and enjoyed the show.
She paused before answering, whipped the sweat from her eyes and smiled. "I think it means, "F*#k! Dude! F*#k!"
I smiled too. Some things transcend linguistic and cultural barriers alike.

They were Koreans it turned out. With broken English and a game of charades we pieced it together and sent them on their way, limping to their next massacre, Excuse Station, a half-mile down the wall. I racked up beneath The Slot.

Thirty-minutes and a hundred and sixty-feet later I rapped to the ground, breathlessly cleaning the gear as I went.
Lyzz took the rack while I pulled the rope, noticed the fresh smear of blood staining my thick pants and rethought her own apparel. "Give me your pants," she said, stepping out of her harness.

"Huh?"

"Yer pants, I want them. That shirt too."

"Um, Lyzz, I'm not wearing anything else, at all."

"Don't be an idiot," she said. "You weren't wearing anything at Mill Creek yesterday and it didn't bother you then."

Somehow, it didn't seem the same. The Koreans, of course! "What if the Koreans come back?"

"If you're going to be such a prude then here, put on my underwear. Christ Steve, sometimes I gotta wonder."

I had to wonder too, as she handed me the purple thong, which would look worse if the Koreans did come back?
They did, of course, just as Lyzz rigged the rappel. I tried to hide behind a rock, but to no avail. Embarrassing, but that's just the way life is.

But that's not the reason I'm writing this story either. In fact, this is not a story about climbing at all. I only reach for and recall these events as I would for a crayon: to color in the outlines of our otherwise anonymous lives. And maybe to draw you in.

Slowly, inevitably, summer crept towards fall, and with it the masses returned, crowding our desert paradice for that short, blissful season. Some faces were a joy to see as old friendships were rekindled; most we regarded with mild indifference. As with many human endeavors, old rivalries grew into resentment, blosseming into slander and contempt.
Around one particularly vicious campfire, while a group of psudo-locals was raking an area climber over the coals for a purportedly inflated resume, Lyzz pondered aloud: "What other recreational activities do you guys have?"

'Recreational' was a subtle challenge to the raging egos surrounding the fire. "I", she continued, "Enjoy needlepoint, crosswords and hard core bondage."

Most of the assemblage regarded her irreverence for our noble activety with quiet disdain. I laughed so hard I fell off my log.
Always a bit show on the uptake, however, I too felt myself drawn into that pathetic game of competitive contempt. Familiarity escalated minor slights into verbal shootouts and out community suffered along with our souls.

Then the harsh fingers of winter encroached on our desert paradise and Lyzz and I found ourselves alone again. We shared many a midnight game of Scrabble and Monopoly while the cruel winds rocked our vans and tested out patience.

The last time I saw Lyzz was on the highway. She was going to Salt Lake to see Linus, I was headed to Denver to interview for a job I didn't really want. She laid on the horn and stuck out her tongue as she passed. Not to be outdone, I gave her the finger. We both laughed.

Lyzz died two weeks later soloing in Indian Creek. It's been over ten years now, but still, I find I'm crying as I write this.
The reason I'm writing this is that, in all likelihood, I'm older than you are and I've seen a bit of life and the world that I think you might need to know about.

The first thing you should know is this: we're all going to die. You, me, Lyzz, all of us. And when you stand there before your maker, naked and alone with no place to hide, like me with those Koreans, it's not going to make one bit of difference what you climbed or what style you climbed it in. The only thing that will matter then is how many people you helped out along the way.

Another thing you might want to keep in mind is this: At Lyzz's funeral I ran into an old friend. Well, not really a friend, we'd been feuding for a long time, hadn't spoken for over a year. We approached each other cautiously, both knowing it was time to move on, both too stubborn, too stupid to start.
"You know," he said at last. "You don't have to like everybody in your tribe, but you do have to love them."
We didn;t say another word. We just held each other and wept on that bitter, cold, wind swept February day.

Life went on, as it tends to do. But for me that moment, those words remain frozen in time and I think they bare repeating: You don't have to like everybody in your tribe, but you do have to love them.

Thank you, Steve Seats

the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Dec 16, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
thanks roadie.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 16, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
keep writing, you're very good at it.
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Dec 16, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
thank you
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 16, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
Thank you.

Words to remember:

You don't have to like everybody in your tribe, but you do have to love them.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 16, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
Oh, That Lyzz. I didn't even know that's how her name was spelled.
Thanks and thanks for bringing her back for a bit.
nah000

Mountain climber
canuckadia
Dec 16, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
powerful writing via a nomadic path.

thank you.

for both this and the alaska highway tr.
micronut

Trad climber
Dec 17, 2012 - 01:24am PT
"I only reach for and recall these events as I would for a crayon: to color in the outlines of our otherwise anonymous lives."

The keyboard is your canvas dude. You have a serious gift with words man. I'm glad you have this medium to spill out your story here for us.......we've never met, its kinda strange eh? That we're here participating in this cool thing you're doing. Thanks for letting us ride along. I echo the sentiments of others here. Keep em coming.

Scott
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 17, 2012 - 01:37am PT
Another excellent tale. Thanks Steve.
ruppell

climber
Dec 17, 2012 - 02:29am PT
Great read Roadie. And some serious food for thought.

Thanks
Matt
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Dec 17, 2012 - 08:29am PT
Wonderful read!
cowpoke

climber
Dec 17, 2012 - 09:53am PT
hilarious and beautiful. thanks for sharing your writing, Roadie. more, more, more!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 17, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
A good message for everyone.
generationfourth

Trad climber
Arizona
Dec 17, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
This was in R&I December 08... I have it clipped out. one of my favorites. As indicated by Roadie– Steve Seats wrote it.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Dec 17, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
Great read, the emotion totally comes through. thanks
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Dec 17, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
Thanks Steve. I've never read that before. I didn't know Lyzz long and I didn't even know that she was a climber. I did know her as a hell of a good pool player and a damn fine dancer. I sure do miss her and her energy.
nopantsben

climber
Dec 17, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
wow, excellent. thank you
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 17, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
Thank you for sharing what is inside you. Life details are different for everyone, but you've tapped into a deeper river that runs through us all.
neversummer

Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Dec 17, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
thats the ticket...
schwortz

Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
Dec 17, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
thanks
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane ~:~
Dec 17, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
You don't have to like everybody in your tribe, but you do have to love them.
WORD!!

Thanks for sharing with us, bro!
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 17, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
very good. I would have paid to see the Koreans reaction when they saw you
roadman

climber
Dec 17, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
nice.
thanks.
grammie lou

Sport climber
big pine,ca
Dec 17, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
so sad, but great story, steve.
Roadie

Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
Thank you everyone for the warm replies. As was pointed out earlier, I first published this piece in R&I in late 2008. After the horrendous events of last Friday, however, I felt it was a good time to blow the dust off it and give it a new birth in this forum. I hope all will keep it in mind through the holiday season and beyond.

For the record, I never put on the purple thong and was clad in only my harness when the Koreans returned. What do ya take me for!

SS
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Dec 18, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
A dear friend and my main climbing partner sent me a link to that wonderful tale...

The link was broken.

He then told me the name of the thread, I found it.

My response to him:

"Whoa dude…I had no idea I would be reading anything remotely that profound. With no warning whatsoever I started crying near the end.

That was DEEP. I swear…SuperTopo is such a mix of LAME and ASTOUNDING!

Brilliant. Thanks so much for sharing that."
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Dec 19, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
Thanks for the story
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
Dec 19, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
Great stuff, Roadie. We usually learn this stuff too late in life. Thanks for the awareness - and the good writing.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 20, 2012 - 12:12am PT
Thanks dude, keep em coming. That was a tough one but some amazing insights in there. Cheers.
lubbockclimber

Trad climber
lubbock,tx
Dec 20, 2012 - 01:33am PT
Thanks bump
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Boulder
Dec 20, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
Brought tears to my eyes. Thanks for reminding us what's important in life.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
Bump!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 14, 2013 - 03:59am PT
Bump!
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Aug 14, 2013 - 08:52am PT
i enjoy.
i've only one suggestion / correction to offer you;

and that is in regards to your written sentiment
that we all will die.

you're passive verb tense is off by 1 order of spacial position.

i defy your wisdom,
because i am dead.
and thus you must revise your understanding
in order to accomodate the a-typical case: me.

i've life yet to exhaust, though my bio-beats
are merely an echo of my future demise;
my strides collide with earth only according to
the momentum of the electrical impluses that surge
from synapse to nerve.

i accidentally live;
rejecting well being with a stubborn resolve.

and don't get me wrong, im not suffering or sad,
this life-death interplay is quite a joy.

my ill habits reward me with peculiar curiosities
such as the magnificent white spider that
has claimed her spot outside of my cabin window,
which is usually lit according to my nocturnal theatres.

so as i alternate cups of coffee with cans of beer,
i sit and watch her grow bigger and bigger as the night
moths, they seek the light drug, and she's there to collect.

then the sun rises behind her web,
and she crawls up into the eve,
so i, like the night moth,
head east toward the light drug,
and get caught in some granite web,

only there's no creature to suck out my vital juice
so i play the role of that predator,
and i also co-star as the prey;

at the end of the day,
those silk purple panties that conceal the mystery's
void glide a little further down god's soft inner thigh.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Aug 14, 2013 - 08:57am PT

"In fact, this is not a story about climbing at all. I only reach for and recall these events as I would for a crayon: to color in the outlines of our otherwise anonymous lives. And maybe to draw you in."

Well I got drawn in for sure. GREAT PIECE, you write excellently and the topic is on the money. Thank you for sharing the masterpiece, don't know how I missed it the first go round.





Oh, minor English Teacher moment: The word show should be slow? 6th paragraph from the bottom:
"Always a bit show on the uptake,..."

Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
Aug 14, 2013 - 09:26am PT
That was amazing, thanks so much!
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Aug 14, 2013 - 09:34am PT
Thank you.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 14, 2013 - 09:35am PT
Thanks for posting that and thank for the bumps. Sorry I missed this the first time around.
Roadie

Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2018 - 07:00pm PT
in a moment of utter narcissism i'm bumping my own thing. I assume many of you are new and some may need a refresher..
cheers...
7SacredPools

Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
Apr 20, 2018 - 07:16pm PT
Brilliant, Mr. Seats. Thank you.
spectreman

Trad climber
Apr 20, 2018 - 08:54pm PT
Wonderful! Thanks for the bump.
hacky47

Trad climber
goldhill
Apr 21, 2018 - 10:20am PT
keep writing....keep posting ...please
Bequita

climber
Apr 21, 2018 - 01:10pm PT
Thanks for sharing this heartfelt story, important reminder and the bump ❤️
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Apr 21, 2018 - 04:39pm PT
I'm glad you bumped it.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Apr 21, 2018 - 08:09pm PT
Quality writing Mr. Seats . . . You did a great one about Cochise too!

Thank you for your efforts.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 21, 2018 - 08:50pm PT
Steve, your writing, no, storytelling is tops!
If you ever get to Moab my advice is this: bring money from someplace else.

"Kwang-fo! Cham! Kwang-fo!" Japanese? Chinese? Korean? It was anybodies guess.
"Huh, what'd'ya' suppose that meant?" I asked Lyzz
"I think it means, "F*#k! Dude! F*#k!"

"If you're going to be such a prude then here, put on my underwear. Christ Steve, sometimes I gotta wonder."
I had to wonder too, as she handed me the purple thong, which would look worse if the Koreans did come back?

 Rest assured your fan club here on the taco runs deep and true.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 21, 2018 - 10:41pm PT
Oh yeah, and I met that guy Linus way back in the day, 1990.
It was at a party that Kyle Copeland, RIP threw, including Warren Harding.

Linus was kind of a warm and fuzzy character, as I recall, and though I was "only 30", I remember admiring his power of youth!

 Plus, one of the Weeg's best poems appears in this thread!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Apr 21, 2018 - 10:51pm PT
I'm so glad you bumped this. I had read it a long time ago and was wondering about it the other day actually. Pretty random that you posted it back up. Thanks so much. I always enjoy your stuff.

You should post and write here more.

Scott
Crag Q

Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
Apr 22, 2018 - 06:44am PT
That is beautiful. Thank you for writing and sharing it.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 22, 2018 - 08:17am PT
well that just made me cry...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 22, 2018 - 11:15am PT
Thanks for sharing.

Your story can actually be found on the rockandice site at the moment, but it could easily disappear as well.
http://rockandice.com/climbing-epics/the-recreational-life/

And a short news item on her passing.
https://www.deseretnews.com/article/823802/Moab-rock-climber-dies-of-her-injuries-after-fall.html
From another thread, she was soloing Elbow Vices 5.10a at Battle of the Bulge.
Messages 1 - 51 of total 51 in this topic
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