Female aims to beat the nose speed record!


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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 4, 2012 - 08:39pm PT

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
This will be fun to watch!

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
I wonder who her partner will be for the nose speed record. The Honnold Florine combo seems pretty hard to match

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
can't wait! I love her eyes..

Social climber
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
When it comes to climbing The Nose free, women have the best record.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
Already too old. Too much sun, too many wrinkles.
Jebus H Bomz

Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
Harsh, Bruce! She didn't say her goal was to climb into your spunk files, so why you gotta act like an oinker about her ambitions?

Dec 4, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
about damn time!

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:46pm PT

I wish her luck--she's got some work ahead of her!

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
Go get it!

Social climber
Hercules, CA
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
More power to her!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
Ok, so when is she gonna get a supertopo account so we know she is not trolling? :)

Dec 4, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
"In rock climbing women are close to men, if you look solely at pure difficulty, but rarely do they compete on the same level as the guys,” says Mayan. “I want to show that we women are just as capable, on any terrain"

Good for you, Mayan. There are several athletic events in which women are every bit as good as the opposite gender. Rock climbing is one. Another is the horizontal bar - a men's apparatus - in gymnastics. Female gymnasts do most of the moves the men do on their uneven bars. I'd love to see both genders go for it on the HBar!

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
My trip to the Valley with my girl friend, Chantel Astorga, was brief but very successful – Within 7 days we did two laps on the Nose, one on Half Dome, and broke three records: We set a new women’s speed record on the Nose twice and completed the first all female linkup of El Cap and Half Dome. The next day Chantel was packing up to leave and was planning to just have another mellow day in the Valley with my friends… However, when Sean Leary (a former speed record holder on the Nose), asked me whether I was keen to a run up the Nose with him, I quickly agreed - Sean is one of the Valley climbers I have always looked up to, I was honored that he wanted to climb with me and was definitely not going to turn down an opportunity like this! I could not resist the temptation to squeeze in another lap just before flying out to Bend. We got an early start, as I had to catch a flight that afternoon. Reaching the top after climbing for 4.29min – a new (male/female team) record on the Nose.During this week my perception of what is possible changed drastically – I now, not only understand how to climb the Nose in 2.30 hours, but actually can see it might be possible to climb it in less! I never thought I would want to peruse speed climbing, but it is actually extremely fun to move so fast and continuously over such this huge wall, and also strangely addictive… An intriguing mixture of strategy, fitness, climbing power and metal strength.


mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
Trolling? Seriously, dude...

I've got lots of popcorn just in case.

She ought to go for it this week, before the world ends, especially with her first name.

Dec 4, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
Go Mayan!

Big Wall climber
Dec 5, 2012 - 12:22am PT
i'd say she has a chance if she goes up with stanley again. But hans will just break it again, so what's the use? ss

Dec 5, 2012 - 02:24am PT
Maybe she should pair up with a male, I mean a man, er, I mean Hans.

Way to go up there, guys, taking an interesting and ambitious climbing project and turning it into a first year of high school snicker-fest.

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Dec 5, 2012 - 02:42am PT
It's a great and ambitious goal. it'll be interesting to see if she can do it, or how close... go for it, girl! I like that ambition. It's a bold statement, definitely hope she gets under 3hrs time. That in itself w/b impressive...
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Dec 5, 2012 - 11:00am PT
Great to see a kiwi rising to the challenge.

I can easily see her freeing the Nose and doing the Nose and HD link up, but for pure speed I think it will be tough to beat the Hans/Alex combo...

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Dec 5, 2012 - 11:05am PT
Oh boy....pretty awesome venture there.....roootin' for her, fer sure.


Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 5, 2012 - 11:19am PT
This is all very laudable but why does one do a website and stuff?
I thought the idea was just to go climbing?
Is she looking for venture capital?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 5, 2012 - 11:43am PT
A lot of climbers have their own blogs, I don't see any negative there... and who would blame someone for not wading into the SuperTopo Forum, the responses to such posting would be predictable (just as the responses to this thread are). I enjoy reading those blogs, it is a way of connecting to their climbing experience which would not be possible otherwise.

Fast ascents of huge walls, Yosemite seems to be the place... so ambitious climbers have goals that challenge their abilities to perform such "In A Day" linkups, which naturally lead to speed ascents. In the Alex 2.0 video of the Reel Rock 7 tour he gets to the top of his Mt. Watkins solo and casually notes "oh, the Mt. Watkins speed record." He is obviously aware of those metrics...

Mayan is a strong climber with ambitious goals and the ability and desire to achieve many of those goals. I wish her the best of luck in her endeavors.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 5, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
We got an early start, as I had to catch a flight that afternoon. Reaching the top after climbing for 4.29min – a new (male/female team) record on the Nose.During this week my perception of what is possible changed drastically

That's called confidence! Starting up the Nose when you have a flight to catch that afternoon!

Beyond lame that someone would post a topless image on this thread. No wonder women get sick of guy's sh#t. Have some respect



Dec 5, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
She may take down the first 2, the last no way, unless Honnold agrees to be her partner, then she may have a chance. But really who are they kidding? It's Alex's record, he decides when it will be broken again not Hans or anyone else.

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Dec 5, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
Looking forward to hearing about the climb when it happens! And yeah, Karl, with you on the respect part.

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 5, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
Watched Hans and Alex this summer. There is definitely room to go faster. If she thinks she can do it, I'd bet she is right.

Addicting? I'll bet it is.. What a blast it must be to cover that much amazing climbing before lunch.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 5, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
Beyond lame that someone would post a topless image on this thread. No wonder women get sick of guy's sh#t. Have some respect

It's a shame.

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 5, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
i'd say she has a chance if she goes up with stanley again. But hans will just break it again, so what's the use? ss

I'd say Hans needs to try something else for once....
He told me something like 80+ trips up the Nose? To carve a few minutes off?
That's a helluva lot of wasted climbing talent that he could spend on other meaningful mountains.

Just my two cents.

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 5, 2012 - 01:36pm PT

Dood needs to work on his bad case of OCD.

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 5, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
The man was super cool when I met him, and obviously beyond bad ass, but we're only given so many pitches on this here spinning rock.....That's my point.

Dec 5, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
In the beginning women did NIAD ascents with male partners.

Then it started with Nancy and Sue as the first all women's team.

Then all female speed ascents.

It might start out as male female speed record and then progress to all female speed record overall.

I believe it would be extremely difficult to break the current NIAD overall speed record by female male combo or all female combo.

Because it takes a lot of experience knowing all the tricks and subtle eccentricities associated with the route itself.

Anyone that's done the NIAD will understand what I'm getting at.

The current overall speed record for the NIAD is really an evolutionary progress by the same individual/s over periods of time and ascents to work out where to cut times.

It would be extremely difficult to on-sight break the overall record by two individuals who have never once done the NIAD ever.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 5, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
At the Facelift, Honnald said the he felt their record could be broken but that it would take a team 25 ascents to work on it and fine tune it until they eventually got lucky and broke it. He said he was not interested in that many more ascents of he Nose himself.

I can't imagine breaking the record onsight is even possible!

SLC, Utah
Dec 5, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
i'd say she has a chance if she goes up with stanley again. But hans will just break it again, so what's the use? ss
Well then. Clearly that settles it.

Good thing women always have men around to remind them why they shouldn't bother.


Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 5, 2012 - 04:24pm PT

Social climber
Dec 5, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
+1 for what Ed H & Werner wrote

Big zeros for Bruce's stupid comment and the lamewad pic of the topless gal.

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 5, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
Good luck to her.
IT would be cool if she could team up with another fast female to do it.

edit: I think Werner nails it though
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 5, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
Looking forward to a caption which states that Male aims to beat the whatever record! instead of his name.

Should be noted that Lynne Hill gave a historic and lasting smackdown to us guys when she freed the Nose in amazing style and it took forever to get a repeat! "It goes free boys!"




Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 5, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
Best of luck to her....


Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Dec 5, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
Aerili, that was too funny ;-)

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Dec 5, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
The thread title is demeaning; as are parts of the thread. I took down my post, which pointed this out in graphic fashion, since so few got it.

You lose some, you winsome.


My twin brother's laundry room
Dec 5, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
I am going to dry tool the Shield.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 5, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
The thread title is demeaning; as are parts of the thread. I took down my post, which pointed this out in graphic fashion, since so few got it.


sometimes is hard to make a point like that in the manner in which you attempted it since the subject is touchy and internet communications one-dimensional



Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
I would be way more stoked to see her get a sub five hour nose climb than by whatever the record du jour happens to be, which is utter wankery
Blodgett Goat

Trad climber
Missoula, Montana
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
She has already gone under 5 hours. Whatever happens you can be sure that her current record will have some major improvements.

Dec 7, 2012 - 07:52am PT
Here's hoping she breaks the record, I've followed her a bit as she is one of the athletes on my Facebook page, very impressive climbing achievements male or female.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 7, 2012 - 08:39am PT
Wow, I'm already exhausted reading all of that. I'd offer to make her coffee when she climbs past my ledge, but I probably won't be awake that early.

Best of luck with the sends!

In another post, James wrote,

"Mayan did not free the Salathe- she skipped the other crux 19 pitch. She freed the Salathe Headwall."

James' is the only reference I have heard to this, which was repeated on his blog. Anyone know any more? James?

Mountain climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:56am PT
no question there is some latent sexism in this thread.

but there's a double edged sword to that: i think part of the reason this has been as nearly universally affirmative, as it has been, is due to sexism, as well.

if this was a male, with the same track record, throwing down the same public goal, i suspect there would be more commentary beginning with "i'll believe it when i see it" and trending to the more strongly negative.

point being, if you'll pardon the pun, she's got balls publicly stating where she's aiming to get to, in such a short time, given what she's done to date.

i'm hoping she proves me wrong, and is like the british off-width dudes who trained in their basements, publicly threw down some impressive goals, and then came and delivered.

until then, she/her sponsors have got a little publicity, a little stirring of the pot, and at least from me an "i'll believe it when i see it" coupled with a "best of luck with your training"!

Dec 7, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
I'm fearful that the game of speed will start ending in disaster for some folks at some point. It's a big time goal and I wish her, or anyone going for it, well.

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
Dec 7, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
Agreed, Werner. But of course everyone wants to set their sights for a speed ascent of the Nose as that is the most fashionable, attention-getting goal to shoot for. Nevermind that it isn't likely to get pulled off.

Now if this woman had already gotten close to the record with a partner and was in the ballpark, it would be an engaging proposition. But does she even have any speed ascents? Does she know any of the tricks these speedsters have developed over time?

Who knows? Hopefully this gets attempted soon before the whole thing passed into obscurity from the lack of memory.

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
My first thought was why not [ name ] intends to beat the speed record.

I was reflecting on this, and thought the advancement of people's perceptions about female capabilities would be better served by not emphasizing the female part of this intention or future achievement. By emphasizing the "first female" whatever, it just serves to make it a special case, an exception, and it impedes the general acceptance and expectation for women to achieve at a high level.

On the other hand, maybe as a society we are at such a remedial level that we still need to beat people over the head with the notion of female capability, build awareness for that, before it becomes taken for granted and can be ignored as an issue.

Apparently this thread shows we still have a way to go. I remember as a kid, long before I though of climbing as a possibility in my life, being impressed with some video that must have been about Lynn Hill. There were some guy interviews in there, talking about how a big wall is no place for women, too hard, etc.... Even as a kid I thought these guys were retards and cavemen. Maybe I had a different perspective about women because of being raised by a single mother.

Edit:I have a bad habit of using 'retard' as an adjective, which makes me a cave man too. Maybe using 'cave man' is also an insult to people who happened to be born a long time ago, but they're not here to defend themselves! In any case, I should be more charitable in recognizing that some people grew up without the experience of seeing women perform at levels that equal or surpass men. Sure there are some physiological differences that affect specific capabilities, but they are much less of a factor than we typically empower them to be.

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Dec 7, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
It is a bigger deal when a woman drags a 7 lbs of rope (or whatever) and however many lbs of gear up a mile of rock as fast a guy. On average, we're weaker and slower than guys, even if balance and strength to weight have a way of leveling out ability on difficult climbs. If she pulls it off, I think it's a bigger deal because she's a woman.

And I think it's a bigger deal b/c she's a woman b/c she grew up with the girl set of expectations same as every other woman on the planet too.

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
Dec 7, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
I'm just saying, get a speed record of your own recorded for the Nose. If it's in the ballpark, then you have a shot at the title. Otherwise you are just blowing smoke up your own ass. That goes for ANYONE trying to best the current speed record, male or female or combination of the two.

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
I talked to Sean at the bridge the day after they shattered the mixed team record. He had really good things to say about her climbing abilities - I say go for it and kick some ass! I hope to be able to make a trip to the Ditch and watch the attempt.

Dec 7, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
most of you naysayers have obviously never seen her climbing. if she puts her mind to breaking the record, she has a chance i think...
i'd not announce achievements in advance, and can't see why she does that, but who am I to judge her choice?
and yes she did free the salathe by vitually everyone's standard, just like honnold, huber, caldwell, etc. did...

Social climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:31pm PT


Dec 7, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
She did in fact free the "Salathe headwall" with variations to the original Salathe route. If I remember correctly she originally intended to free the whole route and not skip the pitch 19 crux. Everyone besides Jim Herson has skipped the pitch 19 crux except of course Skinner/Piana. I've never really understood how this became the "standard" and excepted Salathe free route. To me it is still a variation to the route just like Freerider is. I've been vocal about that in the Valley and have even given Honnold and Tommy some sh#t about not doing the actual Salathe, but no one really seems to care about it. Maybe someday I'll stop talking sh#t and do it myself. For more of the history on the free Salathe go here to Clint's awesome history resource. http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#salathe
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
link format without ~ so supertopo can handle it.

Thomas Huber also did it via p19. It took him a lot of tries to get that pitch.

Some people call the free Salathe without p19 "Salathe' Light". It's still pretty tough to do the headwall, though. (Which is the difference between Freerider and Salathe' Light).

Most people skip the "Teflon Corner" also (and do the Huber "boulder problem" pitch instead).
But I think that's because the Teflon Corner is often wet or overgrown with weeds, not because it's as stout as p19.
And neither Teflon/boulder option is on the original aid line, so it doesn't matter much.
John M

Dec 7, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
I don't care how high of goals she sets. Its her goals. Not mine. Do I believe she will make it anytime soon? No.. because she doesn't have enough history. But so what. It isn't up to me to believe, its how much she believes and how much that belief drives her.

If setting the goal helps push her, and she has fun trying, then as far as I'm concerned, she wins.

As for first female. Some woman has to be "first female", so to me the title of the thread isn't a big deal. In climbing skill level, women have proven that they can climb as hard. But this isn't just skill level. As Melissa points out, size coupled with strength play a part.

lawrence kansas
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:05am PT
And I think it's a bigger deal b/c she's a woman b/c she grew up with the girl set of expectations same as every other woman on the planet too.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:19am PT
When Scott Burke got the idea to try to free the Nose, He was barely solid at 5.11. He got in shape working the easier pitches and gradually got honed and better and better.

He had to be obsessed as he wasn't as gifted as some.

You can argue about to what extent he made it but nobody I've seen has made as much improvement in pursuit of a goal and that counts for something.

To bead the Nose speed record, it's going to take a LOT of work if insane gifts and boldness don't give a unnatural boost. Not just gifts, insane gifts.

Cause Honald is Honald and Hans has had the record for decades for a reason as well

Still, if that's what she wants to do with her life, you never know. Burke spent something like 280 days on the thing!



Trad climber
Dec 10, 2012 - 11:27pm PT

some come to laugh the past away,
some to make .. Sickle in a Day

whichever way your pleasure tends
Yer gonna die
if ya don't tie knots in the ends.

(roll away...)
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