Squamish Legends single pitch challenge

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RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 30, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
The inspiration for this list comes from an enjoyment of doing climbs that are of historical significance or trying routes that were put up by total badass mutant legends so that you can see where you stand & share their vision firsthand. I have always been drawn to climbs that were first done by those that inspire me, it's great how a climbers route or expression can keep teaching lessons to others for many years to follow.


For this first list I wanted to pick 11 routes that are graded 5.11. I also wanted them to be done by 3 prolific Squamish climbers from what I'd like to call the golden era of Squamish Freeclimbing, I wanted these climbers to have different styles as well in order to get a more diverse list. The climbers I chose were Perry Beckham, Jim Sandford & Peter Croft. I also wanted all of these routes to be single pitch to distill the list a bit, a few like Astrologger & Kashmir are a bit out of the way & both are on the chief, but still can be reached from the ground so technically single pitch.


I'm hoping that some of the OG Squamish contingent here or any other climbers who have ever climbed these routes or may have a recommend of a climb that is not on my list that meets the criteria will chime in, I think one of these prolific mutants also resides on this site so Chief, maybe u could point me towards a few gems that I may not be aware of please (or stay away from ;-)

I think it will be a fun project to eventually complete all of these climbs & while I'm aware that not all of these pitches are uber classics I also don't care, it's more about the who/when they were put up & more of a historical pursuit & lesson.

Here we go in no particular order, I also provided an alternate route choice for each ascensionist to account for any shutdown factor which may be likely to occur in pursuit of this project. 3 of the routes I have already completed- 1 since the conception of this list. The other 2 are alternates.

Sandford

1. Kashmir- upper apron
2. And metal for all- Nightmare
3. Power windows- Bluffs
4. Sudden impact- Bluffs
Alternate - Food Frenzy- Petrifying wall

Croft

5. Crime of the century- Bluffs
6. Horrors- Milkmans wall
7. Red nails- oooooowwwweeeeyy- Bluffs
8. Claim jumper- Nightmare
Alternate- Yorkshire Gripper- Bluffs

Beckham

9. Air BC direct- Petrifying wall
10. Astrologger- Chief, North walls
11. Block & Tackle- Sugarloaf
Alternate- no name rd.- Petrifying wall.

Has anyone done all of these?? I'd love to hear what u guys think, thanks in advance. I'll try & find some pics of some of these pitches & post em up later, if anyone has pics of any of these pitches it would be amazing if you could share them.

Anyone care to join me on what will likely be a humbling quest that could take quite some time??

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
Well you got crime last week!!
















I vote you must take a pic of every send.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
from what I'd like to call the golden era of Squamish Freeclimbing

There was another "golden era" before that, and you should at least consider putting Clean Crack on your list.

Yeah, I know, I know, it's probably illegal to climb it now, but if you let that stop you... well, if a little bit of legal line-crossing is a problem then you might as well just go to the gym and see how many "5.11s" you can tick.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
Good points for sure Ghost. The crux of this list was finding routes just by these 3 dudes who IMO all had different styles & strengths but collectively left a slew of badass routes as a legacy for today's climbers to test themselves on. There were many, many other climbers who put up badass routes during this era & the one preceding for sure but my focus was more on the individuals that climbed the routes than the routes themselves so I'm not necessarily looking for the 5 star pitch, just the pitch that the 5 star climber envisioned. Cheers.

Edit- would be awesome if you had a list of 11- 11s of your own to post from what u would consider to be that golden era that I may not be as aware of as I originally thought. I'd love to see someone else's version of the list I'm trying to make!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
would be awesome if you had a list of 11- 11s of your own to post from what u would consider to be that golden era that I may not be as aware of as I originally thought.

Since I think the "golden era of Squamish climbing" began with the first climbing at Squamish and is still going full throttle today, I'm probably not going to be much help.

But if you're looking for some insight into the best routes climbed by the folks you mention, why not ask them? Peter's moved away, but Perry and Jim are still in Squamish, and they are both wonderful guys who will probably be more than happy to talk to you about what they consider their best climbs (at whatever grade).
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
Sentry Box has been downgraded to .11d
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
Yosemite has had several "golden eras" of climbing. The 1930s. The 1950s & 1960s. The 1970s. And so on. They may be having another one. Oddly, the most recent such period tends to be referred to as "the" golden age by those involved. The "golden age" is an ancient theme of history, which you can read about in Herodotus.

Whether Squamish has had "a" golden era, lasting ever since climbing started there, or several golden eras, is an interesting question of historiography. There are perhaps two significant inflection points, one about 1972 - 73, the other in the mid 1980s, and perhaps others. Teleology and climbing don't mix well, as climbing doesn't always develop in a linear fashion, notwithstanding underlying social, economic and other trends. Still, overall there have steadily been more climbs, more climbers, and more difficult climbs. So I'd tend to agree with Dave.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Ok I'll rephrase it then- instead of golden era of freeclimbing as I so ignorantly called it in my uneducated state- lets say the era when freeclimbing was taken to the next level in Squamish aka 1980s & the people who took it there- namely these 3 dudes. Better??

Edit- my original title for this "era" only stems from the evidence that climbing ability, climbers, equipment, & consequently the climbs themselves all seemed to be taken to another level during the period of time when most of these routes were done, that & the fact that I feel the 3 climbers whose routes I chose were on the forefront of that "trend".
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
Ryan,

I'm uncomfortable with the legend thing and coming at this question from a different angle and trying to think of the most well known 5.11 single pitch routes established pre 1990 that come to mind. Murrin seems to be home to a bunch.
Golden Eras are hard to pin down.
There are WAY MORE Crag Betty's now than when these routes went up and that's pretty golden!

Edit, Here's 35; trying to pick the top 11 will take some work and be a matter of some dispute.

No Name Rd 11b (Beckham)
DOA 11c (Croft)
Elastic Man (Howe)
Pleasant Pheasant 11a (Beckham)
Air BC 11c (Howe)
Burnin Down the Couch 11d (Lane)
Block and Tackle 11b (Beckham)
Thriller off the Void 11b (Lane)
Brunser Overhang 11a (Loeks)
El Indio 11c (McLane)
Horrors of Ivan 11c (Croft)
Hypertension 11a (Nicol)
Grandaddy 11c (Croft)
Perspective 11a (Loeks)
Hellfire Wall 11c (McLane)
Hungry Wolf 11b (Atkinson,Hart)
Never Say Never 11b (Hart, Hollwill, Shackleton)
Clean Crack 11b (Weinstein?)
Movin to Montana P1 11d (Beckham)
Knacker Cracker 11a (Croft)
Backwoods BeeBop 11b (Beckham)
The Scimitar 11b (Swedin, Bibler)
Boogie til You Puke 11b (Flavelle, Lane)
Astrologger 11b (Beckham)
Kashmir 11c (Sandford)
Werewolves of London 11a (Croft)
Partners in Crime 11a (Atkinson, Ourom))
Crime of the Century (Croft)
Power Windows 11a (Sandford)
Jangling Ball Wall 11a (Flavelle)
Short People 11b (Croft, Barley)
Yorkshire Gripper 11b (Croft)
Kangaroo Corner 11a (Croft Knight)
True Love 11d (Hart)
Turbocharger 11c (McLane)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 03:02am PT
Perry,

Awesome, thanks for the reply. I must say I appreciate your angle here. I also understand your discomfort with the legend status, not my intention:-) Anyhow perhaps I need to give this some thought, my initial list may obviously contain some less than classic routes, or lesser known routes- however I wasn't really looking for classic routes. I was looking for routes done by who I think are 3 of the more active climbers of this period but who all had their own unique styles when it came to new routing. In the quest to develop as a climber my thought was if I take these 3 & focus on climbing a bunch of their routes as one project that I would learn something, or hopefully a lot of things.

The list you post is definitely the definitive 5.11 challenge master list, have you done all of those? I notice that you did not include air BC or block & tackle which were on my list above, I see air BC came later but block & tackle was in 82, u don't think it's worthy? Cutting my list down to just the eighties seems wise, thanks again.


thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 1, 2012 - 07:12am PT
Perry; how do you feel being labeled an 'OG' - original gangster- ??
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 1, 2012 - 07:21am PT
Perry. You derserve that status for your excellent contributions to the community if not just for your climbing efforts. Thanks to all the og's here who have lifted us up onto their shoulders, with your inspirational tales and feats.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 1, 2012 - 07:57am PT
How about 5 wienstein .10s
 papoose one p1
 the pillar
 caboose
 hand jive
 rainy day dream away
 a pitch in time
 exasperator
 p4 of cruel shoes
We need 3 more
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:27am PT
I think the qualifier was quality single pitch 11's.
The reason there aren't more, especially on the Chief is because you you generally have to climb a pitch or so of lichen covered murk to get to the good stuff.
Murrin and the Bluffs are the exception because of angle. aspect and or decimation of forest cover.

A list of the 11 most recommended single pitch 11's would be interesting.
Marc's hit a good number of them in his Select Guide.

Ryan,
Haven't done:
Boogie Till You Puke (yet)
Kashmir (yet)
Power Windows (Classic SB featureless wasteland)
True Love (Never going to happen, there's no f*#king holds)

As far as the rest of that stuff goes;
Legend's a big hat to hand out and an even bigger one to wear.
Sutton and Burton, Hatten and Weinstein, Croft and Fraser come to mind.
Definitely some legends in the making.

JCH and I have been referred to as "Spry Pioneers", that works.
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Dec 1, 2012 - 08:56am PT
Sudden Impact has lost some of it's original sustained climbing since Jim and I first did it, Robin Barley has added three new route on that sweet little bluff and frigged up the long continuous top section of delicate slab climbing.

I think one of Jimís long lost classics and rarely climbed single pitch is Diamonds and Dust, a 12A incipient crack beside Seasoned in the Sun. Worth a rescrub.

I am surprised you didn't include Will Stanhope in your list of climbers, a later day version of Croft with the same ethical style and boldness of that generation.

Try his direct finish to Power Windows, straight up from the crack with only faith and skill for your pro!
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:13am PT
Rolf,

Good points.
My list was by no means complete or the last word and that goes for the I climbs I mentioned too.
Sonnie, Andrew, Will and Jason are pulling off legendary feats that will definitely earn them legend status although for now, we must be careful with cranial elasticity and strained headbands.
You're somewhat of a legend yourself along with Barley, Flavelle, Lane, Mighty, Woz, Forager, Death Fall Steve and many others.
Like I said, that's a big hat to be throwing around and it can quickly look like a namedropping schmoozefest.
Let's not go there.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:16am PT
Partners in Crime - Randy, with me belaying. (Peter was never involved.)
Clean Crack - not sure who first led it after the upper crack started to get cleaned out in 1976/77. Not Eric - he'd moved away by then.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:18am PT
I assume you're offering corrections on FA info because both are on the list.
We could thrash FA details ad nauseum particularly if we continue an editorial tradition of including belayers, previous attempters, aid ascents, bystanders, their dogs and those who looked at or thought about climbing the routes or had carnal knowledge with the rope gun.
Starts to look like the usual picking flyshit out of pepper.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 1, 2012 - 09:32am PT
just a few more worthy pitches:

Agonal 11c (shack / barley)

Strawline 11c/d (perry) -- someone needs to rescrub this one!

Tokin' Brits direct 11a (Barley ..... KM?)

Finger lickin good 11a (not sure who)

Powerline 11a (Howe)


I'd say Colin Moorehead deserves his own movie too:



RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 11:01am PT
Some good ideas for sure here, strawline was on my list originally Bruce but got yanked due to not being a single pitch(cant walk up to the base), im gonna rethink that though- i remember someone posted a photo of Andy Burnham on it on the Squam thread way back & it looks awesome! Diamonds in the dust?? I'll have to check that one out Rolfr thanks for the recommend:-) maybe a pitch for the 12- 12's single pitch challenge list if I ever make it thru the 11's :-)

Perry I'm with you on True Love, what a pretty climb but........l think Big Mike could do it, might take some work but I have a theory he's built for it.

I like your idea Luke, keep adding on, u meant 10 Weinstein 10s10s tho right??

I guess it's easy to toss the legend handle around loosely when looking back-and forward, many talented climbers have came up around here & continue to do so, if I could edit the title of the thread I'd call it "Squamish way honed single pitch challenge" to reduce what seems to be a misconception that the challenge needs to be made entirely of classic routes & originally climbed by men who could walk on water. That said I like Luke's idea & nobody's stopping anyone from making their own challenge under their own criteria. I'd love to see more actually. Thanks for the responses guys, this gives me something to get psyched on while the heavens unleash.

Credit: RyanD

MH2

climber
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:05am PT
Good list Ryan. I like to think climbs have a little of the FA personality. True or not, your list of climbs isn't one I've seen before.

Red Nails - tried and failed
Kashmir, Food Frenzy, And Metal for All - haven't tried


Suggestion for other climbs - Wankulator (10d and '93 by Perry) but very good per metre


Sudden Impact - did that shortly after Rolf told me about it. Went past it recently and couldn't recognize it.


Its fun to look back but there have been a few changes. Spry pioneers become legends or vice versa.


True Love hasn't faded, though.


Funny coincidence: Perhaps inspired by meeting you guys and Sandra under Crime, when Robert and I went back there the next day I did my first ever lead of it. I'd been waiting to get good enough.


The best definition of The Golden Age of Climbing, hinted at above, is: the years just before you started climbing


RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 11:14am PT
The best definition of The Golden Age of Climbing, hinted at above, is: the years just before you started climbing


Yes.


And laughed my ass off-

True Love hasn't faded, though.


Congrats on crime that's awesome!
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 11:24am PT
OK, here's an idea.


Chief's Recommends for 11 Classic One Pitch Squamish 11s
(This list is organized for climbing them all on the same day)

Smoke Bluffs "Warm Up"

1) Partners in Crime 11a
2) Crime of the Century 11c

Murrin "Technician's Circuit"

3) Perspective 11a
4) Hypertension 11a
5) Brunser Overhang 11a
6) Horrors of Ivan 11c
7) No Name Rd 11b
8) Burnin Down the Couch 11d

"Enduro Homage to the Big Stone"

9) Boogie til You Puke 11b
10) Astrologger 11b

"Cool Down by the Sea"

11) Clean Crack 11b

Recommended Bonus Pitches for total of 18 pitches

Penny Lane 5.9 Warm Up
Pleasant Pheasant 11a lead with Elastic Man 11c TR
Sentry Box Regular 12a lead and TR Lap with Direct 12a
Claim Jumper 12a TR after Perspective lead
Caboose 10b for final wind down.

Festivities at Psyche Ledge, Chief Parking Lot (or suitably discreet alternative)
Beers, Pipeloads,Tea or Whatever.

I think this is well within a lot of people's ability.
My only excuse would be sloth and indolence.

ToGnar variations:

Boogie Till You Puke via Apron and Buttress or Grand Via Chimneys
(Send someone around to meet you with the Harley Parts)

Malemute finish via Angels Crest with North Summit tag after Astrologger



Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
Has anybody ever repeated Dog Face? There was a lonely bail biner on it for ages and ages and ages.

There were some lonely bail biners on Hamish routes Senate Seat and Everyone's a Guide for the longest time too...
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
Sonnie repeated Dogface last year and third classed it with no pads.
He told me he broke a hold and came perilously close to warbling off from WAY UP THERE!
12c-d by his reckoning and I think there's a report in his blog.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 1, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
If I could only think of a one pitch slab route of the right difficulty, I'd suggest adding it to the list. Bloodlust Direct is fairly close..
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
Not a one pitch climb.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 1, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
Maybe with one of those 80 m ropes? Or would that be stretching the rules?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
Awesome list Chief I love the idea, my only question is why not finish on high plains if your already doing an Angels crest lap?? Then u could eschew BTYP & clean crack & finish your single pitch challenge on the summit-, or would that be pussin' out??

That bail biner is still on Dogface, I saw something about Sonnie bouldering king of rock but didn't know he did Dogface too, that's awesome I've never seen chalk on it.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
I know it's stretching it a bit (no pun intended) but the approach kind of counts as climbing and although this shouldn't be an ironclad disqualifier, Bloodlust Direct is the first of a multi pitch route.
Keep digging Mighty, I'm sure you'll find a deserving gem.

When crafting my list of 11 I tried to factor in quality and variety of representative climbing, history, representative locations and the possibility of climbing all eleven in one day.
With these criteria a number immediately got the boot (no pun) including Hungry Wolf and Kashmir.
Astrologger and Boogie Till You Puke are epic good pitches in their own right and the long approaches commensurate with the Chief's mighty stature. Movin' to Monatana P1 and Knacker Cracker although worthy when dry, didn't seem to be in the same league.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
I think Clean Crack is a must on the list and HPD (although one of the finest hand cracks in the known universe) is a multi pitch route.
The jaunt up AC is for those (and they're out there) who would deem my list lightweight fluff.
If they want to throw in HPD to further taunt and mock us, so be it.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 1, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
The Chief Challenge!

Starting now? Chief you gonna buy which ever of us complete all 18 first an 1/8th and an 18 pack!?!

Previous ascents don't count ya gotta hit me again.

Re: legend status - is Perry a cowboy or an Indian ?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
Actually Ryan. You wanna wager me 1/8 and 18 pack to see who can red point them all first, me vs you vs the weather.

All 18 in a day would be crazy, especially this time of year.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
That's pretty good Luke but let's not confuse things.
Ryan suggested something that has rightly morphed into a recommended list of 11 Legendary Squamish single pitch 5.11s. I don't mind you calling my list Chief's Challenge as it doesn't prevent someone from coming up with their own idea. Let's bear in mind there's a number of people who'd 3rd class most if not all of the list so let's keep things in Perspective.
I'll buy a beer or brew a cup of killer Joe for anyone that ticks the list in a day.
Hell I'll even hold the rope on some of the pitches

The bonus stuff is...well it's just bonus stuff.

Now this business as to whether I'm a cowboy or an Indian.
Well, neither actually although I've behaved like both more than once.
Technically I'm Metis which means there's a mix of frog and bow and arrow in the woodpile.
My grandpa Dave Perry was was an English/Scottish fur trapper for the Hudson's Bay Company and grandma was Cree and French. In the finest Canadian traditions, I was raised on bannock, maple syrup, moose meat, saskatoons and preemptive corporal punishment.

I figure I'm actually a Mac which is short for Mackinaw and representative of rough, durable and colorful Canadian working class fabric. I checked out Wikipedia and this quote pretty much sums me up.

Mackinaw.
These jackets have their origins on the Canadian frontier and were later made famous by American loggers in the upper Midwest during the mid-19th century logging boom. In Canada, the "Mac" is regarded as a marker of national identity and working-class values, and has been exploited for effect in Canadian comedy shows such as Second City Television and This Hour has 22 Minutes.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
Is Firewalk still pretty runout?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
I'll buy a beer or brew a cup of killer Joe for anyone that ticks the list in a day.

Whoa!!! Can I even pick the beer?
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
Yeah man, if there aren't at least a dozen takers by next year's Psyche Ledge bash I'll be real disappointed.
Hell, writing the list got me so worked up, I'm inspired to whip myself into shape and give it a try.
Might have to brew myself a cup!
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Dec 1, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
How could you guys not mention AstroSquatch North ?

At 5.11 c+/- 0.33 it's sustained stemming and liebacking to a reverse undercling and is by fart the most classic overhanging pumpfest North of West Vancouver

I am training all winter specifically for this pitch, having recreated the crux sequence in my basement
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
I'm down Luke, so long as we smoke & drink the whole prize together in 18 min or less upon the outcome. As well we'd have to take an honest shot at doing the CCIAD after, have to be a long day in June. I've done a bunch of the climbs on Perry's list already which is kinda the reason they didn't make my original list as I was looking for new climbs but what better time than Dec 1 to start a climbing challenge! Theyre all classic so no problem with some repeats. I'd think you'd want to have most of those pitches kind of dialed before even thinking about doing them in a day anyhow. Ok kid your on, better get your woman to cook up some roast, you're gonna need it! Ready, set, go! Post your sends here, no etriers allowed!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 1, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
by fart

You're betraying your age bruce. Nobody says "by fart" anymore.

no etriers allowed!

oh well forget it then. I'm out.
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Dec 1, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
For the over 60 crowd, can we do it as a relay, but it may be tough to find 18 of us!
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
Wait Rolf, I'm almost there.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 1, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
So first to red point all 18 and top rope the other 2 clean. You're on.

And to keep things fair ill let you know where I keep the big gear for boogie, and the reds and yellows for astro logger,I don't want to have an unfair advantage with 80 some cams at my disposal
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 1, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
Darnit Luke yer messin it up already, 11 not 18.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 1, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
Nuh unn. It's 18 leads. That was what I challenged Ryan too.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
Sorry Perry, were gonna wreck your list but I'm sure we could use some help with the 18 min 18 beer 1/8 challenge, that's gonna be the toughest one- I'm a puker.

Edit- help me out here Luke now you're saying 2 TRs? Which ones can we TR I'm gonna do those tomorrow.

2nd edit- you saw there was sport climbs on there right??
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
This is pretty entertaining, reminds me of a few yrs back me & a friend had aspirations to climb the nose so we were always trying to come up with these 31 pitch link ups & find the most efficient way to do the pitches. A good one i remember was doing st vitus up the buttress then doing Wiretap on the way down, once u hit the campground hang a right & head up slot machine, xenolith dance, ride the bullet & moonwatcher(i think), then walk out bellygood & finish on the upper black dyke, a big, fun, moderate day for sure.

Another list we came up with was "Astro Bluffs" -doing the same # of pitches as Astroman with the same grades as all the pitches on Astroman in as close proximity as possible. We tried it one day but got shutdown by rain about 2.5 pitches in. Obviously this would climb nothing like the real Astroman (much easier)but fun nonetheless & a good day out for sure. Give it a try sometime.


-penny lane 9
-crime 11c
-power windows 11a (was graded 11c at this time??)
-quarryman 8
-gripper 11b
-popeye & the raven 10c
-health hazard 10a
-teenage girls 11c
-ugly american 10a
-werewolves 11a (also called 11c at the time)
-split beaver 10b
-asleep at the wheel 8



Edit- Perry I like the point system u got there ^^^^^^ creates yet another challenge within the challenge. Another thing I just realized is that climbing Astrologger & then taking the new trail from the Slhany or whatever it's now called up to the saddle & then back to the cirque then walking down the reg trail to clean crack may be the best way to go if u aren't up for climbing AC on your way to boogie.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Dec 1, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
The Chiefs Challenge is most definitely the definitive Squamish 5.11 Classic 1 pitch tour

BUT KNowing that we have scooped Astro Squatch South, on Temple Crag 12,982 ft (3,957 m) - Grade V 5.11c, from under everyones noses this summer, already....

this list is going to be CAKE in a day
browniephoto

climber
bc
Dec 2, 2012 - 02:15am PT
wankers better hurry up...
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Dec 2, 2012 - 07:12am PT
May I please add to thee list Turbocharger?

Hot Cherry Bendover would bee a fine addition but....... it's now a garden :(

thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 2, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
I've been training really hard! Dont believe me? See for yourself http://vimeo.com/10026180
gf

climber
Dec 2, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
Good lord luke -no wonder you moved out west
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 2, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
that was in revelstoke.. not much to do around there!
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Dec 2, 2012 - 06:40pm PT
I thought Revy was a pretty friendly place though was only there for two days ... climbed at Begbie
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 2, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
The snow is high quality.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 2, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
In the finest Canadian traditions, I was raised on bannock, maple syrup, moose meat, saskatoons and preemptive corporal punishment.


HAHAHHA!!!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
Oh geez Luke if I'd seen that I woulda never accepted your challenge, I had no idea what I'd be up against!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 2, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
Brookvale  P.E.I. - earlier today
Brookvale P.E.I. - earlier today
Credit: thekidcormier

Greg- this is why I moved out.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 2, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
For the over 60 crowd, can we do it as a relay, but it may be tough to find 18 of us!

The over-60 challenge does have a couple of differences. If you've led eleven elevens, or toproped eleven elevens, or belayed a someone on eleven elevens, or even watched someone climb eleven elevens, over the last eleven years, then you're in.

I think I'm close.



bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Dec 3, 2012 - 09:56am PT
The difference between 11a and 11d is far greater than 10a and 10d I always thought
gf

climber
Dec 3, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
luke_are they covering up seed potatoes for winter storage?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 3, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
In that PEI photo are those cannons spraying instant potato flakes over the ground or what?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 3, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
Arn't those manure spreaders and isn't that mulched herring they're spreading all over the potato fields?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 3, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
Arn't those manure spreaders and isn't that mulched herring they're spreading all over the potato fields?

Well, yeah, but when it's dyed white and groomed it makes for great track skiing.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 3, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
We may have to rat ghost out to his wife, for herring abuse and other un-Scandihooligan behaviours.

Maybe it should have its own thread, or be elsewhere, but the Kid Cormier is doing a fundraiser sometime in the next ten days. In his words:

Hey everybody I'm going to be participating in a climbing fundraiser in which proceeds go to Habitat for Humanity. My goal is a solo winter ascent of the Grandwall here in Squamish, sometime between now and dec. 15th.

If you want to help support this cause you can donate online, at http://my.e2rm.com/personalPage.aspx?registrationID=1665206&langPref=en-CA

*note* I'm not actually going to be at the cliffhanger event this Saturday, but will be attending the grande finale superhero party at the hive next Saturday.
http://www.facebook.com/#!/luke.cormier.7?fref=ts

* Cliffhanger and The Hive are climbing gyms in Vancouver.

The larger event, of which Luke's effort is a part:

Sat, Dec 8th, The Vancouver Rock Climbing Group and Cliffhanger Vancouver present:

Christmas Climbing Marathon and Fundraiser!

Theme: Superheros to save humanity!

*Dress up and increase your sending power!*

How it works?

You set a climbing goal (ANYTHING! Be creative!). Ask your friend to sponsor you. Track your donations with the admission ticket below. Admissions for climbers waived for $30 min. raised. Donate online @ www.vrcg.ca/santa now! *Free entry for belayers.

Challenge Categories:
1. Apron 15 laps
2. The Chief 30 laps
3. El Capitan 90 laps
4. V0-3
5. V3-5
6. V6+

Online donation: www.vrcg.ca/santa
*We DO NOT collect money donations. Tax receipts are available.

*Admissions waived if you raised more than $30.

Admission ticket downloadable at:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Amlv25yiVrcDdG5xSDNNVmJMdG5hNEhDZ3RmZzZNUXc#gid=4

Arrange belayers and sponsors at:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Amlv25yiVrcDdG5xSDNNVmJMdG5hNEhDZ3RmZzZNUXc#gid=4

All proceeds go to Habitat for Humanity Greater Vancouver, whose mission is to mobilize volunteers and community partners in building affordable housing and promoting homeownership as a means to breaking the cycle of poverty. This is our annual charity project for climbers to use their climbing skills to benefit the world!

*Remember to make your costume climbing appropriate: no sharp objects or long dangly bits.
http://www.facebook.com/#!/events/437327366316645/
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 4, 2012 - 07:31am PT
Am I really that bold that I'm taking on Fundraiser for the less fortunate to give Ryan D a head start. Or is it stupidity?

If anyone wants to sponsor my effort, process go towards helping those less fortunate, something like a buck a pitch for the 10 pitches, times two cuz I gotta climb em twice each, 20 bucks and you get yourself a donation receipt for income tax purposes.

Everybody's a winner, hooray!

"You know how I feel about the homeless. They are people, and they don't have homes"
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:07am PT
Brilliant! I also propose an adopt a Gondola car campaign!!!!


...... ok bad idea. Kid I'm in for 50. where do I pay?


Did you guys see Hamish Mutch's last picture on the acrophobes? Those guys weren't kidding apparently about saving squamish for when you can't get into the mountains!

So on this theme perhaps A post Pineapple Apocalypse for Humanity climbathon up angels crest? All age categories. awards for worst dressed and least prepared. JH and his SAR friends could set up hot coco stations along the ridge. Those mountain bikers get all the headlines with thier wimpy Test o' Metals and stuff so maybe its time for the rise of the dirt bag.

I'll be the weather forecaster and try to give youall a weeks notice. I'll be there all the way. I'll even give you weather updates via my blog to your I phones while on route
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:19am PT
uh oh. Spoke too soon maybe:

http://wxmaps.org/pix/avnmr.144hr.html


I will continue to monitor the situation from my living room but I suggest you all get your costumes ready
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:53am PT
Donations can be summited too

http://my.e2rm.com/personalPage.aspx?registrationID=1665206&langPref=en-CA
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:49am PT
I'm in for the Chief Challenge, although due to my living in the city, lack of a car, and snow being top of the to-do list these days, I won't be starting till spring.
However, I will be training hard all winter, so I'm guessing that I'll be able to catch up to you lightweights pretty quick once the time comes.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Dec 4, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
I ticked the Challenge yesterday, so all you poseurs can fugetaboutit already

And just a reminder to the calendar challenged, Winter begins December 21st and ascents subsequent to that date can be described as such.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 5, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
Bump for fundraising for Habitat for Humanity.

Plus who - apart from Aislinn, that is - wouldn't want to see The Kid do a winter solo ascent of the Grand Wall?
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Dec 5, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
I'm definitely down with Luke doing the Grand solo. Just as long as someone brings an extra rifle I can borrow.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 8, 2012 - 10:49am PT
Allright i just donated 30 bucks towards Luke's ascent! Bump for Humanity!
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Dec 8, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Hey, just a question - why is climbing Clean Crack illegal now?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 8, 2012 - 11:19am PT
Hey jaaan. Truth is it probably was always trespassing, but BC rail always just let it slide. The bc government sold bc rail to CN Rail in a scandalous way..... http://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/british-columbia/van-dongen-hires-lawyer-prominent-in-bc-rail-case-to-probe-further/article4096225/

Since then CN had been super anal about trespassing on their tracks and they aren't willing to compromise with local climbers...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 11:35am PT
Hopefully the weather holds for tomorrow, gotta work today but im so psyched to start chipping away at this list!
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Dec 8, 2012 - 11:36am PT
Thanks Mike.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
Aww Ryan I was gonna call you to go cragging this aft!
browniephoto

climber
bc
Jan 2, 2013 - 09:51am PT
if Pleasant Pheasant is on the list I would like to vote that it must be done on gear.

edit:

as is tradition...
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