Runout classics - ever take the ride?


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Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Nov 24, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
I ground off half a butt cheek on Shakey Flakes

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 24, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
I got totally gripped when i led Hair Lip. It was either '72 or '73 and I was climbing with a friend and it was my lead. Tobin Sorenson walked up just as I was going to start and asked if he could hook up with us since he had gotten there a day early (before the rest of his crew).

I wear glasses and it was the only time I can recall climbing without them because I had either lost or broke them or whatever and was between pairs. I am blind as a bat and couldn't see sh#t. I just recall getting very gripped at one point, the crux i suppose, but I didn't fall.
(i remember trying to look for something for my left hand and not being able to see shit/sticks in my mind).

The only time I climbed with TS, was that day. Although we had bouldered together many times, etc! We did several other routes that day. I can't recall which. I think my buddy lead the flared chimney just to the right of Hairlip, Hot Buttered Rump since that was the original plan. I don't recall what other routes we did. TS wasn't famous then although he already had a reputation as one of the Stonemasters and up and coming climbers of our generation. We went for dinner in town that evening. I was living in Idyllwild that summer, they were groovy times, lol!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Nov 24, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
Don't know if it's considered a "Runout Classic" but the longest ride I took was 1974 at Josh near the top of Papa Woolsey 10b..
I had sent it previously 2 times without any issues but on this day I was 10 ft. above my last clip and pulling up slack to clip the last bolt (only 4 back then?) when one of my PA's popped from an edge and gravity took over. Took a 30 footer counting the slack I pulled, but failed to drop all that slack from my hand and when the rope went taught the extra slack ripped thru my hand over the back of my thumb resulting in a major friction burn. A 30 footer on what a 50-60 ft. route,glad I didn't deck.
I blamed the worn out
edges on my PA's for the pop,
but the quart of Schlitz Malt Liquor and the doobie before ropin up may have factored in as well.

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 24, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
I saw this guy take a chilling whipper on the last pitch of the Royal Arches. I was leading the hand crack right before it and he was just about to the end of the long traverse left on the last pitch and fell. There is no pro on the traverse so he took the long ride down and catapulted over the lip at the bottom of that slab. Screamed like all hell as he slid. He probably thought he was a gonner or something. I saw him in c4 the next day and he had these HUGE water blisters that covered both palms and all of his fingers. They looked like catchers mitts!! lol

edit: never tried EBGBs ...sounds WILD!!

Trad climber
San Diego
Nov 24, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
I caught a pretty epic whip off EBGBs. My buddy Kevin (Monterey) was leading and was above the last bolt and just about to the top where he screwed up the final sequence. He took about a 35 footer off it and got to enjoy most of the route a second time. Epic. I was glad that I had slung into the boulder behind you as you belay the traverse.

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Nov 24, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
"She got to the bolt stance, but was too short to clip the bolt."

That's why I never leave the ground without this:


Social climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 24, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
(Raises hand)

Worst fall I've ever taken was on EBGBs. Blew it right at the top. Was pretty unnerved by the time I got there from the insecure (for me at least) smearing on the way up. Did the classic mistake and leaned in too far searching for handholds and, poof! I was off. The toe of my right foot caught something as I swung through the bit of a pendulum that fall entails and wrenched my ankle badly. Ended up somewhere near the first bolt on the main slab facing outwards.

There was a family hiking around there when I fell, and I fear I traumatized the little boy with them for life. He saw the fall (I'm quite sure anyone within about a mile heard me yell when I came off ;-) and was crying when I passed them limping back to the car. Tried to reassure him that I was OK, but he didn't seem to buy it.

Took about a year for my ankle to heal (mostly, it's still only about 90% and is always the one I injure) and about 2 for my lead head to recover.

Oh, and this was post-fires and that thing didn't seem easy to me. I've never been back up on it. Every time I pass it, it gives me, well, the EBGBs.

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
I saw this guy take a chilling whipper on the last pitch of the Royal Arches

Prime example of the fall never to take.


Social climber
An Oil Field
Nov 24, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
I took a hundred footer off of a .10b slab route when I was 18 or something. It is one of those routes without a crux. Every move is .10b. I smoked the hardest part and was pulling over the top when I skated a foot and went for the ride. There was only one bolt on the pitch about 20 feet off the belay.

It was rough granite like much of Josh.

Injuries: Loss of all skin on the pads of my hands. Any raised part of my hands was ripped clean.

Lost one ass cheek and various large sections of other body parts.

The worst was laying on a bed with my shorts around my ankle while Duane Raleigh's mom spent three hours picking lichen out of the wounds.

I healed up very nicely on the outside. On the inside I suffered from PTSD for years.

It would have been truly severe or death if Duane hadn't realed in armloads of slack as I was falling. He caught me after I was well past the first pitch belay.

It is a famous story around here that is still told. Not many people have done that route to this day. The horror story shuts down the v12 gym kids.

Come on. It only takes one draw. You don't even need a rack.

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
yikes... whats the route? Not that I'll be getting on it any time soon, lol.

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
Heard Clark fell on Hair Lip during a photo op or sumthin????? confirm/deny????

Trad climber
Kings Beach, Lake Tahoe
Nov 24, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
Always wondered if someone has actually pitched over the roof on
Fiddler on the roof at red rocks. I followed the traverse above the roof pitch and my partner was not courteous enough to place pro after the crux. I would have definitely pitched over the roof! It took me a good 15 minutes to commit to the fairly moderate moves. Next time I will try to make that pitch my lead.
Donald Thompson

Trad climber
Los Angeles,CA
Nov 24, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
I nearly came off at the last move before the bolt at the end of the second pitch traverse of Ten Karat Gold at Suicide. Not recommended. At the last moment my fingers dug into a very sharp edge that allowed me to avoid that massive and potentially tragic whippage.

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 24, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
Shakey Flakes is the Sh*t

Credit: StahlBro

EBGB's will make you clinch

Credit: StahlBro

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Nov 24, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
I witnessed an horrendous fall on Guillotine, at Suicide, back in the early 80's. (perhaps the one you referred to GDavis)

The leader was quite a large guy...pretty fit, and very tall....but clearly a noob...his rack was ALL SHINY.

He began storming up the route, trying to lay away every move, and really struggled with placing pro. He was up a good 60 to 70 feet, when he ran out of gas.

With mouths agape (I was with Tim Wagner) we watched this guy bounce down the route, ripping every single piece he had put in, and deck right in front of us in a heap.

There wasn't a square inch of him that wasn't bleeding, but he appeared to have no broken bones, and actually walked back down the hill to the car....a bloody mess, but VERY lucky to be alive.

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Nov 24, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
25 feet out from the last bolt on the 5.10D traverse pitch of Dream On at Squamish and I made a nooby mistake and stretched for the anchours!
Back then I knew how to run downhill on slabs and had a great partner who could suck in rope with a body belay, thanks Ivan!
I managed to flash the harder crux pitch but got schooled for having a big ego on the traverse pitch.

Reminds me of what my dad always used to say " there are no accidents, just stupid decisions"

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Nov 24, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
I gotta give EBGB's a ride in this life!

I mean it's only 5,10 what?

Nov 24, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
Nope, no rides... :)

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Nov 24, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
10c, Bluey.

I think the route's position makes it feel harder.

I recall one particular ascent, when the wind was blowing left to right, and I had to flag the right foot out considerably to check the barndoor effect.

I remember the sound of the wind whistling through the hanger holes.


Nov 24, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
Rosy Crucifixion,

Its not run-out if you do it the correct way but first time on it I linked P.1 and 2 and after the exposed first pitch I had dropped half my wires and half my brain. Heading up the second pitch (second half of my first pitch) I was about toast physically AND mentally. Not able to stop to place a bomber cam cause it would have taken all my strength to do it I gunned for the ledge. The ledge is sloppy and in classic feet "bicycling" I pitch. Flew 40ft to just below the anchor of the 1st pitch. You could probably hear my scream on the first flat iron! My sort of new partner as wide eyed as I was saw a guy peek his head around the corner and ask' "is everything O.K.?" he said "yeah, did you see that?" He said "no but I heard it!"

It was all clean and funny as hell!

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