Double Rope Rappels?


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Trad climber
Nov 5, 2012 - 07:36am PT
"IMO, in less than optimal conditions -- windy, rainy, cold, dehydrated, injured-but-conscious partner"

These may be the times simul-rapping is most dangerous. When you're cold, injured, rushed, panicked, and not thinking too clearly.

"I managed to get the rope stuck about thirty feet under me. I was at the anchor below, she was at the one above and I was unable to give her slack to hook up her device. I was also unable to communicate with her due to high winds and drizzle."

Simul-rapping isn't the solution to this problem. In very windy conditions the rope ends should be clipped to the harness. Additionly the rope may be belayed out by the partner above or you can just take all the rope with you. This would prevent getting the rope stuck, esp. on a "a notorious rope eater".

Trad climber
Nov 5, 2012 - 07:55am PT
Believe it or not, I know something about rope systems, and such, and can think for myself having taken in input from others. Thus I have always done. Appreciate your advice.

Actually, it was a joke. Obviously not a very effective one.

I don't have any strong opinions on simos one way or the other.

Aside from my commitment to phonetic spelling. heh


Nov 5, 2012 - 10:39am PT
Is it really that much faster than a single rope rappel? Maybe what, like a minute or two a rappel if you are efficient

I usually use the time while my partner is rapping to set up my third hand, speeds things up and gives them an emergency belay if the ends aren't even.

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