Most beer hauled up El Cap.

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Messages 1 - 79 of total 79 in this topic
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 8, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
Speed records, yawn.

New free routes, whatever.

Whose got the record for most beers hauled up the big stone?

Ammon, Klaus?
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka
Oct 8, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
A case of OE tall boys was the Golden Standard bitd. That would be for a solo route, and usually ran out well before the summit. At some point beers become too heavy and it makes sense to augment the supply with vodka or whiskey. I think Ammon has this record though

edit
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Oct 8, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
Very good question....tucker been up there?
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
No Dingus that sounds like a pretty standard rack.

Klaus, what's your rack consist of?

Edit: thx klaus
John M

climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
Does in the body count? Or does it have to be in the haul bag?
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka
Oct 8, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
good question. you'd usually start with 3 at the base in your stomach
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 12:10am PT
Yeah, whiskey makes sense. More bang, less weight. It would be cool to have a haul bag cooler though with dry ice. Then just toss it off the zod with all the empties. It might get bootied though for all that deposit money. ;-)
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:13am PT
I'm gonna claim the prize for never taking a beer on any type of climb for 45 years.

Any you sissies got that beat?


Can't say the same for the hard stuff...
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:16am PT
Joto and I were always well supplied but probably knot much more than middle tier.
John M

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:18am PT
I think this guy had more then 3 beers in him before he started. Don't know how much he was hauling in the bag though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyyE7RoGRsc
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:23am PT
^^^^^nope.LSD.


o.k also maybe a zima or two
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:25am PT
You guys are light beyond belief. True hardmen could drink so much beer on the ground that they didn't even have to climb El Cap.
John M

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:26am PT
that don't count towards the beer total? haha..

rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:53am PT
72 tall boys by Barry Ward and YB (Alan Humphrey) on Space.

They did not make the summit (that time)
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:11am PT
i think klaus is just being modest, he's gotta be the record holder right???
zm
zm
Credit: mctwisted
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:48am PT
Good thread.

When I was lugging gear for the show on New Dawn, Jon had a large backpack full of a couple cases of beer.

I know that was supplemented by at least 3 bottles of wine and various hard stuffs.

Still, I have heard tales of Ammon's "All Beer Ascents" and if you included pre hike libations I am sure he has the record :D
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Oct 9, 2012 - 03:23am PT
Hmm think I summited once after bringin 40 24oz OE and a about 5 liters of liquor. Shorty route but good fun with the booze...

Cole

Trad climber
los angeles
Oct 9, 2012 - 03:48am PT
All I know is Mike Flood did the first S7 on El Cap. He didn't sh#t for 7 days! Just drank beer the whole time. Not sure how many he had up there with him though....
captain chaos

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 04:44am PT
I'd have to say Burton and Sutton always had a fairly good stash... can't say how much, but you can be sure they never ran out. I never took count on how many we had when ever we went up there together, but it was definitely the bulk of our haul bag weight.

rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Oct 9, 2012 - 05:45am PT
Sutton once told me the story when he did an all beer ascent of the Nose!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Oct 9, 2012 - 06:18am PT
Thread drift: how about the record for hard liquor before a 20' boulder problem?
kaitb

Big Wall climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
Credit: kaitb

Ammon and I took up quite the load on my first big wall and El Cap route: Mescalito. I believe it was 66 cobras.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
Holy shit!

27 is my record. I know that's probably light duty...
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
How in the world is Clance not mentioned yet?

I heard the Trons and Him hauled 3+ cs on Aquarian, then sent tracy down the ropes for 2 more?

Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
I'm normally so wiped at the end of the day I only need one or two. I guess that means im light duty squared. Once because I can't drink that much and second because I can't haul it all. My preference is definitely scotch, way more bang for the weight.
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Oct 9, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
Still, I have heard tales of Ammon's "All Beer Ascents" and if you included pre hike libations I am sure he has the record :D

This is just Valley tales spinning out of control, the only time I didn't bring water on an El Cap route was the Zodiac... well, I brought it but didn't get to drink it. I wished I would have brought some beer that day.

I heard the same thing about Tucker back in the day and have always believed it. But, you know how rumors are...
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
Ammon is it true you took and duct taped 136 Slim Jims together and then coiled them in a Grade V haul bag and then filled the rest of the bag with Cobras and easy cheese cans?

Is it also true your camel back is full of whiskey not water?
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Oct 9, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
Didn't Clance pitch of the American Zone pitch on Aurora all drunk? Took some huge whipper or something. How true is that story?

Stories of Klaus, Tucker, and Walt pretty much inspired me to carry all that OE to the base back when I was into that.

beef supreme

climber
the west
Oct 9, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
how do you drink nothing but beer and not sh#t once in a week?
genuinely curious.... what about the 'beer shits' ?
eKat

Trad climber
BITD3
Oct 9, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
Kait. . . I LOVE THAT PICTURE OF YOU!

Too darling!

ArrrrrrrrrrrrrMatey!

:-)

TFPU!
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Oct 9, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
I thought I was tough for eating caffeinated GUs and nutella sandwiches. Talk about a buzz!

Don't even get me started on the Costco chocolate muffins.
sethsquatch76

Trad climber
Joshua tree ca
Oct 9, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
Beer is not the way on big wall or alpine sufferfests......The pros bring whiskey, ganja, and lsd.....That's the enlightened path........

On a side note beer and mushrooms are not the way to summit Ancient Art......
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
HAHA!!! We could always try again...
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 9, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
On a side note beer and mushrooms are not the way to summit Ancient Art......


Pussy.

;-)

J
sethsquatch76

Trad climber
Joshua tree ca
Oct 9, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
Jeremy you are correct we did have an acute case of pussitus......inflamed by sand, mud, and Larrys vomit....

We will do better next time using more pro grade tools.....
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Oct 9, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
just askin' - were those containers all recycled or did some hapless Facelifter have to do it?

Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 9, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
My goodness, I had no clue. The most we ever hauled were tequila, limes and some cigars (which don't really count I suppose). I have a nice shot of me enjoying all three on Chickenhead Ledge. Good times...
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 9, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
Peyote - way more bang for the weight, senses sharpened rather than dulled.



All you light beer swillers should down a dozen buttons for the Big Stone.

The Great Spirit might visit you up there...
Gorgeous George

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Oct 9, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
A few years back on a miserably hot October day I was belaying some friends at the base of Triple Direct and struck up a conversation with an Australian who happened by and was amazed we were making an effort to climb da Captain. Over about a half hour I gave him a little primer on rock climbing, suggesting he take a course while in the Valley. Nice enough guy, he bade me farewell and left.

Couple of minutes later he yelled up to me "Hey, Ho Hey (Jorge), there's a beer coming up to you." I thought to myself, Oh, maybe the guy realized he should offer me one of the beers in his backpack and sent it up the gully with another hiker. Being barefoot at the time, I yelled Thanks and walked gingerly over the pebbles toward the trail to meet my benefactor.

Suddenly, a mid-sized BEAR came crashing in my direction, stopped in fright at seeing me in his way, then fled over the ridge in the opposite direction. As I too fled in fright now running over the same sharp pebbles inflicting great pain on my tootsies, I just yelled back to my Aussie friend, "It's BEAR, BEAR, not BEER, you idiot!"

That's my best beer climbing story.
Matt Thomsen

Big Wall climber
Places
Oct 9, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
I have heard the story about Jake (bringmedeath) and Jamie doing plastic surgery disaster with a TON OF BOOZE!

I think they may have the record...
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 9, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
I am amazed at how talented climbers can get while living off of what *should* kill a man.
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Oct 9, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
I never did understand the attraction to swilling quantities of sh!tty beer while on a multiday route.

For that matter, I never did understand the attraction of swilling quantities of sh!tty beer at all.

I'm with Warbler on this one, there are better ways to enjoy what you really enjoy.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
So says you.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
ANY amount of Cobras is light. That stuff is like hydration brew, or some such.
So, not so much. Olde E's on the Big Stone is the Standard.
fsck

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Oct 10, 2012 - 12:10am PT
don't want to piss into the (parade, wind, somebody's grave .. ), but what is the most beer hauled down El Cap?

Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Oct 10, 2012 - 01:38am PT
Nobody ever carries extra food, water or beer down from the top. The polite protocol is the stash whatever you have left for others. Or, gorge and consume it, in situ.


Kait's photo is the best, regardless of the record for most beer. That is a great shot, and 100% indicative of what this topic is all about.


Klaus' well-informed comment about whiskey is spot on. You can mix whiskey with canned tomato juice, and wake up to a tasty Texas Mary. Or, mix it with Del Monte fruit cocktail to boost the evening calories. All you have to do is remember to bring extra water and vitamin C (necessary to metabolize that fiendish 101-proof Kentucky Straight). There is no cheating the haul bag, only bringing whiskey - you have to bring extra water and grapefruit.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Oct 10, 2012 - 02:13am PT
A16 bomber hat! I've got one of those somewhere...
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 10, 2012 - 10:31am PT
There's one in the back room at Nomad Ventures in Esco, I think...
ec

climber
ca
Oct 10, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
Ian on da left...Heart Ledge Party, El Cap, 1979. Ian, ec, ed sampson,...
Ian on da left...Heart Ledge Party, El Cap, 1979. Ian, ec, ed sampson, dave ohst
Credit: Richard Leversee, ecjoe collection

one case, not OE, but it was on the house!

Heart Ledge party, bitd.

toast to Ian Gill, on the left.

 ec
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 10, 2012 - 06:50pm PT
Had heard there were BBQs and beers BITD just above there on Mammoth..

Seems good to me.

Anyone interested in a quick run up the fixed lines .. a few friends cases of beer,, meat ?

splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Oct 10, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
Only hauled whiskey, weed & women (WW&W)...and only skinny women at that! ;)
ec

climber
ca
Oct 10, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
fsck, is that video relevant to this thread?
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Oct 10, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
ec - Precisely relevent! The d00d was drunk, so it is very apropos, imo!!

And that d00d (in the vid) was no n00b. I forget his name, but he had done something like 30+ walls! He wasn't even tied in, just tangled up in the rope! Lucky sucker!

edit: Chris (CF) filmed it! He would know all the details!
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
Why not just build a brewery or a Still? Then everyone could enjoy.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 15, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
Tom put me onto Texas Marys, but on Genesis and Lost World we drank Kentucky Marys - Kessler whiskey and V8. If it's warm, you have to drink the whole bottle of V8 in about a day, otherwise it starts to ferment.

On Genesis I think we had a couple 2-4's. Plus some whisky, tequila, and about three bottles of wine. Oh! And of course, Sailor Jerry and Jumex cans.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 15, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
They sell Spicy Hot V8 (and the regular kind too) in 11.2 oz cans...I've got a 12pk in the car right now.

Spicy V8 cans, bottom shelf handle of vodka, worcestershire packets from the deli = Bloody Mary Wall goodness.

It would be hard to bet against Clance in this thread.
Abjays2

Trad climber
Calistoga,CA
Oct 15, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
Chuck Clance easily has that record!
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
Catchup packs and vodka. Poor man's Bloody Mary.
AndrewC

climber
Oakland California
Oct 15, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
Shaggy (Brent Edelen) and Andrew hauling a keg up El Cap, 1998.
Shaggy (Brent Edelen) and Andrew hauling a keg up El Cap, 1998.
Credit: AndrewC

Credit: AndrewC

Keg on Heart Ledge.
Keg on Heart Ledge.
Credit: AndrewC
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka
Oct 15, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
is that bearded guy Ammon?
88

Trad climber
morro bay, ca
Oct 15, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
Two of us started up the Salathe with a case and a half of talls. Low on the route a German climbed up from below us to the belay and said with complete disgust that we had beer leaking out of the bottom of our canvas haul bag. We decided to bail since we were cutting it so close to begin with. More disgust from the German.
eagle

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
Oct 15, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
i did not drink when i did el cap back in the mid 70's but i did a cap and a stem before i led the cracks above the great roof on the salathe. back then the valley used to stamp the bottom of beer cans and soda cans so we used to pick the gabage cans to get at them and return them. some of the cans did not have the rubber stamp of half dome and yosemite 5 cent return so my friend clean dan went and had someone make one....pizza and beer all around. so again back in 78 they did way with that idea and then the reclcling place had the idea to weigh cans and again he came up with the brillient idea to put a few pinches of sand in each can. those were the days. i think crusher might remember those days.

lol
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
Oct 15, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
They are going to have start having AA meetings on el cap.
lars johansen

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 15, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
I don't drink much any more but when I did I found that booze and pills were more efficient.

lj
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Oct 15, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
zBrown - what is the most beer hauled down el cap?

Uhmn ... it works like this; Beer goes up, piss comes down!

;)
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
That's Ammon, Klaus. He was pretty fuzzy then.
I attended that occasion.
T'was the first Heart Ledge Kegger.


Pass the settling jug.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 15, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
They are going to have start having AA meetings on el cap.

Works for me as long as I can bring my beer
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Oct 15, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
They are going to have start having AA meetings on el cap.

Great. A drinking team with a wall problem. :D
Andrew Barnes

Ice climber
Albany, NY
Oct 15, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
Andrew C.

I was sure someone had hauled a keg up there sometime. It was just a matter of time before the photos surfaced. Thank you.

I'm thinking probably a good place for a keg party is Mammoth Terraces. Really spacious, you can just crash there if you are too inebriated to rap down, all you need is your jugs and rap device for the commute.

Are there other nice ledges on El Cap that would be suitable for a keg party? Anyone?
PaulPeterson

Trad climber
Prescott, AZ
Oct 16, 2012 - 12:37am PT
Not the Caption, but Devil's Lake, Hilton's Buttress. 1985
Not the Caption, but Devil's Lake, Hilton's Buttress. 1985
Credit: PaulPeterson
Jim Pettigrew

Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
Oct 16, 2012 - 12:45am PT
This thread is a crack up! Especially when you guys get to Burton and Sutton's all beer ascents. Harding dragged gallons (so the stories go) of wine up his everlasting first ascents! Whitey, Ed and I started dragging good whiskey and tall boys along to ease the cotton mouth from the bong hits!:)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 16, 2012 - 12:48am PT
There was a full-on BBQ on top of the Split Pillar at Squamish some years back. Maybe the Bear has photos thereof?
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 16, 2012 - 01:02am PT
Cobras were consumed, along with grilled veggies.
Cobras were consumed, along with grilled veggies.
Credit: mucci
hubcap

Big Wall climber
loveland co
Oct 16, 2012 - 10:13am PT
On the first ascent of Mescalito we had 2 6 packs in the haul bags and we got Chuck Pratt to go and get us a case more, plus an ounce of good stuff.
foxo

Trad climber
ashland, or
Oct 16, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
Last June Matt "Lambone" Lambert, Joey and I hauled 27 beers up Zodiac. Caldera IPA's and Cobras-maybe a couple Rolling Rocks in for shits and giggles. All I know is that each night ended with a complete Pink Floyd album and some cold quality bevies with a bitchen view...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 16, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
Most beer carried up El Cap......mega super, super yawn.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
Oh Jim.

Credit: The Larry

The Real Mad Dog

Gym climber
Napa, CA
Oct 17, 2012 - 12:07am PT
I once was cleaning up with others after an aborted attempt on the Nose (leader fell 30 feet above the base). Two haul sacks: one gear, one all beer. Now in Napa we'd do all wine. Of course, we'd never make it past Syckle Ledge, but who'd care?
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