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rockman143
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 8, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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Who knows anything about the Cutting Edge on headstone? besides its hard. Thanks All
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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The bathroom on top is always out of TP, so you gotta bring sum.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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All shamelessly ripped off pictures of Joshua Tree's Finest.
As for Cutting Edge, a great line for sure, but not even JTree's Finest.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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I know that dude. I've seen him out at JT almost everytime I'm there!.
One of Josh's finest for sure. Just can't place the name........
TY
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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You might want to retitle this thread if you expect pointed response to its real subject. Just sayin'.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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That's for the "jt finest" plug.....
A Cosgrove route that looks very difficult and has had very few ascents...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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^^^^^
seems to describe most of Coz's routes. Don't think he has any 'trade routes' that I've heard of, all seem realllllly hard lol.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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^^^^^ and featuring long moves or reaches...hence the fewer repeats than other hard lines there.
This one is no exception.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Didn't Schneider work on it for a few days and come close...but no cigar...
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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I have a friend who has climbed Skinhead Arete as a warm-up, The Hydra, and a couple other hard things in JT. But he just couldn't seem to get The Cutting Edge done.
From the base, it looks hard as f*#k.
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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I tried that thing a bit about 8 years ago. Vicious crux seam to be it the v10 range. It's not 13b that's for sure. Wonder if its ever seen a repeat.
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mountainlion
Trad climber
California
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Love headstone and those lines on the back I always wondered who could do them. Now I get my answer SCOTT COSGROVE ROCKS! I always liked the photo in climbing magazine of him on G-String but that's the only photo I ever saw of him in action!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Isn't there some shot of Bridwell on that thing? Or was it another .13 arete?
Seemed harder than I thought the Bird was capable of pulling but ya never know...
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rockman143
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
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Well hey if i don't give it a burn i will never know. It will be done a again sometime... Thanks everyone for all the replies
Coz is there anything i should know about the route besides wake up early? Thank you.
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rockman143
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2012 - 01:21am PT
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I figured so. Thanks for the beta i will defenetly give it a go. I am more than willing to put in the work. I will let you know how it goes.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Oct 10, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 10, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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Bridwell, grabbed the easiest section of climbing on the route, probably the only section he could hold on to and posed down. He never came close to climbing it and his posing was shameful at best.
Getting caught making out with your cousin is shameful, posing is just silly ;D
Maybe I should grab some lycra and lower to the 5.10 section on Games?
No, probably someone will find that fishy.
hehe.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 10, 2012 - 10:37am PT
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I have only climbed a small collection of routes at JT, but I really like Run for your Life, Illusion Dweller, Loose lady, real good routes.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Oct 10, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
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Coz -
Not intending to knock your efforts in any way...you, Randy and a handful of others have done more to push forward hard climbing in the Park than everyone else combined. This route, as with many of your others, is super proud and highly aesthetic.
You bring up Alan Moore as a champion of your lines, but remember his positive ape index when you use him as a defense. You might be interested in knowing too that he is one of the people who calls routes like Integrity, New Deal, and Cutting Edge "reachy."
As I said, not trying to take away from your successes in any way. They are all hard routes and among the best in the Park, but some of them do have big moves on them that contribute to the grades.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 10, 2012 - 01:28pm PT
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Maybe I should grab some lycra and lower to the 5.10 section on Games?
I have some Lycra you can use.... you might find the .10 section a little interesting.
If you wish to get a little taste, do the climb left of "Perpetual Motion"...same start. Besure to use double ropes.
That climb Scott did is one of the gems of the park, no body gets on it.
ROCKMAN.... go for it, good luck.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 10, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
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I've done all the moves, at 5'8" (with no chance of linking more than a few at at time cause I'm not good enough or strong enough). But it IS a tall guy's route. There are clips that are very reachy, and clips from funky positions. It would be a very hard lead for someone under 6' just due to the clips.
I belayed Alan on it a few days, and he came so close a bunch of times. Would fall after hanging the crux hold, then re-do the crux and climb to the top. It was heartbreaking, season was winding down, and it mainly came down to getting there early enough for sending temps.
The bottom couple of bolts is 5.12ish, basically vertical thin edging, then it's hard and sustained bouldering up the prow with your body basically always on the right side of the prow except as you hang the crux. The crux move is a huge throw to a sort of hueco/pocket thing with an edge in the bottom, around the left side of the arete about 3/4 up.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 10, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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Any routes that you'd compare it's difficulty to?
So many climbs it seem never get repeated, then get repeated a bunch because the stigma of 'unrepeatable' is gone (like Jim Holloway's boulder problems, Action Directe, Realization... all far from California.... hrm. lol)
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rockman143
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 01:28am PT
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I decided to get on desert shield instead (same height and grade just more clips) there are some big moves on that to but still doable and a good route (i'm 5'10ish). Its just a little bit broken, you can tell many holds have fallen off. still an amazing Coz route well done and my hats off.
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| Messages 1 - 25 of total 25 in this topic |
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