| Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
rockman143
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 8, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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Who knows anything about the Cutting Edge on headstone? besides its hard. Thanks All
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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The bathroom on top is always out of TP, so you gotta bring sum.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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All shamelessly ripped off pictures of Joshua Tree's Finest.
As for Cutting Edge, a great line for sure, but not even JTree's Finest.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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I know that dude. I've seen him out at JT almost everytime I'm there!.
One of Josh's finest for sure. Just can't place the name........
TY
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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You might want to retitle this thread if you expect pointed response to its real subject. Just sayin'.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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That's for the "jt finest" plug.....
A Cosgrove route that looks very difficult and has had very few ascents...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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^^^^^
seems to describe most of Coz's routes. Don't think he has any 'trade routes' that I've heard of, all seem realllllly hard lol.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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^^^^^ and featuring long moves or reaches...hence the fewer repeats than other hard lines there.
This one is no exception.
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coz
Mountain climber
Northern surly
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What a bunch of crap SoCal climber, short guys have done all the moves. But if knocking my accomplishment with such BS makes you feel better carry on.
Never been repeated as far as I know, some people have gotten close.
By modern grades it's probably around 13D, although I rated it 13 A/B just to be a sand bagger.
I thought it was the most beautiful line I ever climb in the Park, but it's just my opinion.
BTW most of my routes in the Park have been repeated. Confirm and up rated, by Alan Moore, and others, he thought the Cutting edge was hard, but failed because he refused to wake up early while it was in the shade.
Anything u really want to know about the route PM me.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Didn't Schneider work on it for a few days and come close...but no cigar...
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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I'm Rick James, Bitch
Social climber
Up in it and down on it
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My bro Steve Harris from PA? did it a couple of years ago and said it was a "tall guys route" and it was not that bad. He is about 6'4" or so and is not usually a 5.13 climber.
CIRJB!!!66699
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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I have a friend who has climbed Skinhead Arete as a warm-up, The Hydra, and a couple other hard things in JT. But he just couldn't seem to get The Cutting Edge done.
From the base, it looks hard as f*#k.
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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I tried that thing a bit about 8 years ago. Vicious crux seam to be it the v10 range. It's not 13b that's for sure. Wonder if its ever seen a repeat.
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mountainlion
Trad climber
California
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Love headstone and those lines on the back I always wondered who could do them. Now I get my answer SCOTT COSGROVE ROCKS! I always liked the photo in climbing magazine of him on G-String but that's the only photo I ever saw of him in action!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Isn't there some shot of Bridwell on that thing? Or was it another .13 arete?
Seemed harder than I thought the Bird was capable of pulling but ya never know...
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rockman143
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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Well hey if i don't give it a burn i will never know. It will be done a again sometime... Thanks everyone for all the replies
Coz is there anything i should know about the route besides wake up early? Thank you.
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coz
Mountain climber
Northern surly
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Yes a long list of people have failed mostly becauses of lack of effort.
It's not that bad never said it was, Kurt Smith did all the moves first day as did Steve S.
Kurt's 5' 7"
It's not a big reach and it so lame human nature thinking such things....
Bridwell, grabbed the easiest section of climbing on the route, probably the only section he could hold on to and posed down. He never came close to climbing it and his posing was shameful at best.
The trick is to lean left and palm the arête with your right hand and use face holds on the left. There is an obvious crux with a hard Dyno to a slopper three finger edge. Although Steve was able to do the move with a undercling static.
It's a great route but a hard route that would make almost any modern climber have to work.
Remember I did it 22 years ago.
Rick James is full of brown stuff.
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rockman143
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
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I figured so. Thanks for the beta i will defenetly give it a go. I am more than willing to put in the work. I will let you know how it goes.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 10, 2012 - 07:35am PT
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Bridwell, grabbed the easiest section of climbing on the route, probably the only section he could hold on to and posed down. He never came close to climbing it and his posing was shameful at best.
Getting caught making out with your cousin is shameful, posing is just silly ;D
Maybe I should grab some lycra and lower to the 5.10 section on Games?
No, probably someone will find that fishy.
hehe.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 10, 2012 - 07:37am PT
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I have only climbed a small collection of routes at JT, but I really like Run for your Life, Illusion Dweller, Loose lady, real good routes.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Oct 10, 2012 - 09:14am PT
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Coz -
Not intending to knock your efforts in any way...you, Randy and a handful of others have done more to push forward hard climbing in the Park than everyone else combined. This route, as with many of your others, is super proud and highly aesthetic.
You bring up Alan Moore as a champion of your lines, but remember his positive ape index when you use him as a defense. You might be interested in knowing too that he is one of the people who calls routes like Integrity, New Deal, and Cutting Edge "reachy."
As I said, not trying to take away from your successes in any way. They are all hard routes and among the best in the Park, but some of them do have big moves on them that contribute to the grades.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 10, 2012 - 10:28am PT
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Maybe I should grab some lycra and lower to the 5.10 section on Games?
I have some Lycra you can use.... you might find the .10 section a little interesting.
If you wish to get a little taste, do the climb left of "Perpetual Motion"...same start. Besure to use double ropes.
That climb Scott did is one of the gems of the park, no body gets on it.
ROCKMAN.... go for it, good luck.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 10, 2012 - 10:34am PT
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I've done all the moves, at 5'8" (with no chance of linking more than a few at at time cause I'm not good enough or strong enough). But it IS a tall guy's route. There are clips that are very reachy, and clips from funky positions. It would be a very hard lead for someone under 6' just due to the clips.
I belayed Alan on it a few days, and he came so close a bunch of times. Would fall after hanging the crux hold, then re-do the crux and climb to the top. It was heartbreaking, season was winding down, and it mainly came down to getting there early enough for sending temps.
The bottom couple of bolts is 5.12ish, basically vertical thin edging, then it's hard and sustained bouldering up the prow with your body basically always on the right side of the prow except as you hang the crux. The crux move is a huge throw to a sort of hueco/pocket thing with an edge in the bottom, around the left side of the arete about 3/4 up.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 10, 2012 - 11:23am PT
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Any routes that you'd compare it's difficulty to?
So many climbs it seem never get repeated, then get repeated a bunch because the stigma of 'unrepeatable' is gone (like Jim Holloway's boulder problems, Action Directe, Realization... all far from California.... hrm. lol)
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rockman143
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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I decided to get on desert shield instead (same height and grade just more clips) there are some big moves on that to but still doable and a good route (i'm 5'10ish). Its just a little bit broken, you can tell many holds have fallen off. still an amazing Coz route well done and my hats off.
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| Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
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