L'Equipement de l'Alpiniste 1900

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Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2019 - 10:44am PT
Th Björnstad who was mentioned above is interesting also seen with Norwegian eyes. Here's parts of the story:

Th. Björnstad & Cie

Thorleif Björnstad, 1885-1930, was born in Christiania (now Oslo), Norway, as a merchant's child. He studied skiing and was invited as a ski teacher to Bern, Switzerland, in the winter of 1904. After working at Tobler Chocolate Company in Bern, he worked in a sport’s store owned by his brother-in-law in Munich, Germany. After returning to Bern, he worked in a sport’s store in the city and later started his own independent store. A 1912 advertisement shows that the name of the store before becoming Th Björnstad & Co had been E. Dethleffsen & Co. In 1912 Björnstad had his main store in Bern, but also shops in Grindelwald and Zermatt.

The name of the blacksmith who made Th Björnstad ice axes is not known, but it may have been the Andenmatten brothers. The shape of the lower part of the blade is similar to the shape of ice axes from the Andenmatten brothers. The straight head was well received at the time when the elegant curve was mainstream.

Th Björnstad became chairman of the Swiss Sport’s Retailers Association and served as a ski coach and officer at the Winter Olympics in St. Moritz in 1928. He died at the age of 45 in 1930. The cause of death is unknown. The store continued for a while.

Sources: Nirayama and a 1912 advertisement

And here's a Th Björnstad & Cie ice axe:

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 16, 2019 - 11:01am PT
Thanks for the share! Very pronounced adze on that axe. That head shape which was also used on the Stubai Aschenbrenner shows up on more wooden ice axes than any other I would wager. Great for chopping steps but not much else.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2019 - 11:23am PT

The Werk Fulpmes/Stubai Aschenbrenner ice axe produced between the 1930s and the 1970s must be the most successful ice axe model ever. There's still a lot of them around for sale.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2019 - 01:53pm PT

Th Björnstad obituary 1931: Jahrbuch des Schweizerischen Akademischen Ski-Clubs


Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2019 - 11:52am PT

From the 1870s to the 1930s Berner Oberland had a lot of skilled ice axe blacksmiths.


 Wyler in Wilderswyl
 Jörg in Zweilütschinen
 Häsler in Lütschenthal
 Bhend and Schenk in Grindelwald

I am quite sure there were also other ice axe blacksmiths in the area. Until now I have surprisingly not found Interlaken ice axe blacksmiths. I have only seen many late alpenstocks/walking sticks with Interlaken written on the shaft.

Ice axe production grew fast from the 1870s to 1915 because of better infrastructure and a huge rise of tourism, including climbers, to the area.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2019 - 12:00pm PT

The least known among the ice axe blacksmiths mentioned above is Ch Wyler in Wilderswyl (today Wilderswil). Here you see his logo:


And here you see Wilderswyl in the late 1800s/early 1900s

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 21, 2019 - 07:11pm PT
Nice logo on that ice ax!
Beautiful craftsmanship as well.

Another gem courtesy Chris Grealish/Denver Boulder Couriers.
Le Pelerin 4-29-1934:


Je ne parle pas francais, so I'm uncertain if there's any relevant text inside after a cursory look.

Back cover is trending a bit on the OT, but I assume you'll enjoy it nonetheless, Marlow:

seano

Mountain climber
none
Mar 21, 2019 - 07:17pm PT
The bottom caption: THE INHERITED TASTE FOR SUMMITS: Like his father, the new king of Belgium is a fervent alpinist; here he is climbing, last February, some perilous summits in the Dolomites.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 21, 2019 - 07:27pm PT
Thanks for the translation, Seano!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2019 - 01:32pm PT

The back cover makes me wonder what happened in France in 1934.

Aha...

The 6 February 1934 crisis was an anti-parliamentarist street demonstration in Paris organized by multiple far-right leagues that culminated in a riot on the Place de la Concorde, near the seat of the French National Assembly. The police shot and killed 15 demonstrators. It was one of the major political crises during the Third Republic (1870–1940). Frenchmen on the left feared it was an attempt to organize a fascist coup d'état. According to historian Joel Colton, "The consensus among scholars is that there was no concerted or unified design to seize power and that the leagues lacked the coherence, unity, or leadership to accomplish such an end."

As a result of the actions of that day, several anti-fascist organisations were created, such as the Comité de vigilance des intellectuels antifascistes, in an attempt to thwart the rise of fascism in France. After World War II, several historians, among them Serge Bernstein, argued, while some leagues had been indisputably pushing for a coup, François de La Rocque had, in fact, turned in a liberal direction, toward a respect for constitutional order. However, if the lack of coordination among the fascist leagues undermined the idea of a fascist conspiracy, the fascist actions on 6 February were an uncoordinated but violent attempt to overthrow the Cartel des gauches government elected in 1932.

Édouard Daladier, who was president of the Council of Ministers, replaced Camille Chautemps on 27 January 1934 because of accusations of corruption (including the Stavisky Affair). Daladier, who had been a popular figure, was nonetheless forced to resign on 7 February. He was replaced by the conservative Gaston Doumergue as head of the government; this was the first time during the tenure of the Third Republic a government fell because of pressures from the street.

A part of the first part of the story:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2019 - 12:36pm PT

Berner Oberland railways

 The first part of the railway was opened in 1873 from Interlaken to Zweilutschinen.

 The Murrenbahn from Lauterbrunnen to Murren was opened in 1891.

 The Schynige platte railway opened in 1893.

 In 1903 the Jungfrubahn was opened to Eigerwand station and in 1905 to Eismeer station.


Interlaken station

Zweilutschinen


Murrenbahn


Schynige Platte bahn


Jungfraubahn
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2019 - 12:51pm PT

Berner Oberland

jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Apr 1, 2019 - 01:19pm PT
Going back to Argentière, I just found these on fb... 100 years apart:



Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2019 - 01:26pm PT

It's a good time for the woods of Argentiere...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2019 - 11:55am PT

Here's a Club Alpin Francais, Section du Mont-Blanc, 1886 invoice. I'm nut sure what it's for. Can anybody solve the mystery?

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2019 - 11:13am PT

The Visp (Viege) - Zermatt railway


The mountain village of Zermatt first gained major recognition in Europe in light of the inaugural ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper in 1865. From then onwards, the number of overnight visitors rose steadily, even though the village itself was only reachable by a lengthy march on foot through the barren valley of Zermatt. Even the simple mule ride as far as St. Niklaus took a long time. Nevertheless, by the 1880s there were already as many as 12,000 tourist visits to Zermatt each year. To promote tourism in the valley, and especially in Zermatt itself, plans soon emerged to build a railway line intended to connect the emerging spa with the Rhone Valley.

On 21 September 1886, the Swiss Federal Council granted the banking house Masson, Chavannes & Co. in Lausanne and the Basler Handelsbank an initial concession. The original request was for a 750 mm (2 ft 5 1⁄2 in) narrow gauge railway from Visp to Zermatt, using a mixture of adhesion and rack railway line. At the insistence of the Bundesrat, the gauge was finally altered to metre gauge. The railway was at the outset to be operated from the start of June to the end of September, as the promoters did not wish to take on the risks of operating the line in an alpine winter. Additionally, it was only in summer that there were prospects of significant numbers of passengers, as in those days winter tourism was still of no great importance. Nevertheless, the Bundesrat reserved the right to extend the operating season, and similarly stipulated that concessionary fares be offered to locals.

Planning and construction of the line was entrusted by the participating banks to the railway company Suisse Occidentale-Simplon (SOS), which, in the summer of 1887, conducted extensive survey work in the Mattertal. On 10 October 1888, the Compagnie du Chemin de Fer de Viège à Zermatt SA emerged as the operating company.

The exact route and mode of operation was initially the subject of intense debate. The Suisse Occidentale-Simplon proposed a pure adhesion line, with a maximum gradient of 4.5%, while the engineer Ernest von Stockalper, who was working on the construction of the Gotthardbahn, proposed a combined adhesion and rack railway, as originally planned. A Special Commission established to investigate the ideal mode of operation visited, for the purpose of its investigations, numerous rack railways in Switzerland and Germany, including the Brünigbahn and the Rübelandbahn in the Harz, which was equipped with the Abt rack rail system. These visits led to a decision to equip the line with the system used on the Rübelandbahn, and using a maximum gradient of 12.5%. A total of six sections of track were to be laid out with a total of 7450 m of rack railway.

Construction began on 27 November 1888 in Visp. The work was entrusted to the western Swiss contractors Julius Chappuis, while the SOS undertook the purchase of land and the procurement of rolling stock. Acquisition of the necessary land turned out to be difficult, particularly in the municipalities of Stalden and St. Niklaus, as the local population was not interested in selling. Tedious expropriation procedures therefore became necessary. Also, land in the entire valley was divided into a myriad of tiny plots, and usually the actual owners of the plots were not recorded in official documents. The absence of a road made it necessary to transport the building materials almost exclusively over the already completed parts of the railway tracks to the construction sites.

On 3 July 1890, rail traffic on the first part of the line, between Visp and Stalden, could finally be introduced. By 26 August of the same year, the first trains reached St. Niklaus. In the following months, however, an unusually severe winter delayed the completion of the remaining sections. Only on 18 July 1891 could the entire line as far as Zermatt be handed over to traffic.


Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2019 - 10:58am PT

Along the Visp - Zermatt railway several early ice axe blacksmiths were found. Among them:

St Niklaus: Gebr Fux
Täsch: Joseph Willisch, later Gebr Willisch
Zermatt: Robert Perren, Alfons Taugwalder
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 13, 2019 - 09:35am PT
Wonderful historical material Marlow!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2019 - 12:46pm PT

Grindelwald railway station around year 1900

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2019 - 01:42pm PT

Mighty Hiker

That's a great reminder. Jgill first reminded us of Tschingel, the rock star...

Tschingel still today remains the most famous tailed-mountaineer of all the times! Indeed the star of Tschingel will shine forever in the history of alpinism, in reason of her value and her challenging mountain climbs. Tschingel become famous as the dog that climbed the Alps, following her master up peak after peak. During her lifetime she made sixty-six major ascents, including eleven first ascents, as well as about a hundred minor ones. She never climbed to gratify her master, being herself a true passioned mountaineer, beaming with joy when she was getting to a summit, crying when the difficulties had been stopping her!

Tschingel was a middle-height she-dog, maybe a crossbreed between a beagle and a spaniel, maybe having something of the dachshund, anyhow extraordinarily nimble and clever, born in a high alp of the Berner Oberland and grown-up in the shadow of the Eigerwand. “Hazel-brown big eyes, expressive and sweet, long ears, grave voice, brown coat and white breast, as well as her paws, short but strong”. This was the nice description written in 1891 by Jean Veneon on a rare pamphlet, published on the “Alpine Journal”. When Tschingel climbed the Mont Blanc with her own paws, she was observed from Chamonix with the telescope and her arrival on the summit was celebrated with a cannon shot. When she returned to the town, she was greeted at the hotel as a true diva of mountaineering.

Tschingel had her baptism of fire on September 1865: at the age of six months she did her first ascent, a true record for that era, crossing her first glacier and climbing a steep snow-slope getting the summit of Tschingel Col - from which she took her name - with her first master, the swiss alpine-guide Christian Almer. After this exploit, Tschingel produced thirty-four puppies at Almer’s home in Grindelwald and acted as a watchdog; it was not until the summer of 1868 that she embarked on her outstanding career.
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