El Capitan Film Restoration by Fred Padula (Kickstarter)

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Mr. Rogers

climber
The Land of Make-Believe
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 3, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
Surprised not to see this on here yet. Or did I just miss the post?

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1765735821/el-capitan-film-restoration

The digital restoration of the classic 1968 Rock climbing film, El Capitan.

Launched: Oct 1, 2012
Funding ends: Oct 31, 2012

"Even though El Capitan was no longer being distributed, I continued to get inquires and requests for the film. When very, poor, quality bootlegged copies started showing up on the Internet, I knew I had to do something. I decided to look at the original film, that ran through the camera, and to my surprise after almost 45 years, it still looked pretty good. I had it digitized (scanned) in high definition. The new technology is of such high resolution that every little scratch and bit of dirt on the film showed up crystal clear. In order to restore the film to its original condition, over 86,000 frames, one frame at a time, has to be digitally cleaned and repaired. With digital software we are able to reconstruct the film with all the original effects, restore the color, and make it look even better than the 16mm film prints.

After several years of being repeatedly asked, “Whatever happened to the climbers?” I approached them with the idea of making a film that would reveal their lives today, and have them recall their memories of filming El Capitan. About a year ago, I started filming and have captured some delightful and insightful moments of their lives and accomplishments. Though still being edited, the film is turning out to be candid and entertaining. When it is finished, it will be included on the DVD with the restored El Capitan.

With the money that I hope to raise from Kickstarter contributors, I will be able to complete the El Capitan film restoration, finish “Whatever happened to the climbers?” (working title) and prepare the DVD master.

After being out of distribution for over 10 years, with your help, the classic film, El Capitan, will finally be available again, restored in HD and looking better than ever.

If you would be inclined to pass this information on to your friends by way of Twitter and Facebook, it would really help.

Thank you for your support.

Sincerely,

Fred Padula"
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Oct 3, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
Yeah...I think it's come up once or twice. No USD to kickstart my own butt right now, though.

But I'll be 1st in-line to grab Padula's DVD, when and if it's released; BITD had the pleasure of having him personally present his masterpiece, w/ a fine Q&A session, in good old ivy covered Wheeler Hall.

His SF State protegee, Glen Denny, also cut his teeth on “Nyala,” a B&W short of Gary Colliver soloing S. Face Cathedral Pk. Rented it from Canyon Cinema for my b'day party once...and was interrupted by a telephone call of a Job Offer.

Gosh! It's almost 5 o'clock (YOSAR Time) – I've managed to waste the entire day here, waiting for tomorrow's Rx refill appt. But, I did manage to clean my office up a bit, which I do once a year, whether it needs it or not.

C' ya_

“Because high times sometimes begin on a Low Note” Space-Age-Bachelor.com
Farouk

Boulder climber
Sylvan Grove
Oct 3, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
Yeah...I think it's come up once or twice. No USD to kickstart my own butt right now, though.

Helping out starts at a dollar!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU SAYING YOU DON'T HAVE A DOLLAR?????????????????????????????????????????
briham89

Big Wall climber
los gatos. ca
Oct 3, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
I'm in. But why $25,000?! Jesus
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Oct 3, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
Pledged. Thanks for the heads up.
Fletcher

Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
Oct 3, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
Wow, this is great to hear! I have the original on a VHS but nothing to play it on (loaned that to someone here who was doing the Nose for the first time a few years back). One of my all time favorites. Will definitely pitch in with the Kickstarter campaign later tonight.

Exciting!

Eric
QITNL

climber
Oct 3, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
Cool.

"But why $25,000?!"

That's fairly low-budget for this sort of thing. From his site:

Even though El Capitan was no longer being distributed, I continued to get inquires and requests for the film. When very, poor, quality bootlegged copies started showing up on the Internet, I knew I had to do something. I decided to look at the original film, that ran through the camera, and to my surprise after almost 45 years, it still looked pretty good. I had it digitized (scanned) in high definition. The new technology is of such high resolution that every little scratch and bit of dirt on the film showed up crystal clear. In order to restore the film to its original condition, over 86,000 frames, one frame at a time, has to be digitally cleaned and repaired. With digital software we are able to reconstruct the film with all the original effects, restore the color, and make it look even better than the 16mm film prints.

Plus he'll need to restore the audio - a damn fine soundtrack, from what I've heard so far.

Plus he's completing a follow-up film - “Whatever happened to the climbers?” (working title).

Plus what kicks a lot of kickstarters in the kiester is delivering on their pledges to their backers:

Pledge $30 or more and receive an El Capitan Blu-Ray or DVD with the newly restored El Capitan film and the new film, “Whatever happened to the climbers? Also receive a t-shirt and a poster.

Add shipping and he's barely covering his costs there. So we're almost talking pre-orders. Hopefully 800 odd pre-orders at the $30 price point covers his production costs and replication, t-shirts, printing. That's a pretty thin margin. If he can pull it off, I'd give him the benefit of the doubt here.

I'd still love to see a screening of the 16mm, warts and all - anybody else?
crøtch

climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 08:29am PT
Bump for my favorite climbing film. I might have to go get a blu-ray player when this comes out!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 4, 2012 - 08:33am PT
He is doing it in Blu-ray? Which should look great but

There's some of that 25k right there. Pretty sure Sony is soaking up some licensing fee's for anyone producing Blu-Ray format.

80k frames to be digitally touched up? That's some serious workload gotta pay someone for that. Gotta eat.

Hope they pull it off. Perhaps the greatest climbing film ever made. Its certainly on the list.
10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Oct 4, 2012 - 08:37am PT
I had it on VHS also, but gave it to an ex gf. I'll contribute

I hope it gets made
Fletcher

Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
Oct 4, 2012 - 09:05am PT
Just pledged!
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Oct 4, 2012 - 10:25am PT
Just pledged. Let's make this happen!
slobmonster

Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
Oct 4, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
I did too, this morning.

If you have not seen El Capitan, you are MISSING OUT. And if you HAVE seen this film, you know its value. C'mon Supertopo, let's do this!
David D.

Trad climber
Monterey
Oct 5, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
Bump for climbing. ^^ I wonder if he'd be able to work with one of the big modern climbing film studios (Big UP, Sender Films...) to help re-release the film?
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:26am PT
Helping out starts at a dollar!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU SAYING YOU DON'T HAVE A DOLLAR?????????????????????????????????????????

No, Farouk, not even a dime, right now - I just made my Sept mortgage payment - on Oct 5.

Plenty of reasons. For the 1st time, in some 30 years of private practice, the 2007 recession resulted in client payments defaults, by now exceeding $50k.

During the runup, I'd busied myself with work which resulted in about $6m construction valuation, these buildings were completed in 2007. (this included, to my pleasure, 2 homes in Yosemite West for a couple of my homies, presently employed by the Climbing School)

I've been supporting my family, and my business, with garage and deck additions ever since, and damn lucky to have even those.

To the global financial meltdown add last winter's drought. "We're all farmers here," Dave McCoy has remarked on more than one occasion; Mammoth lives and dies on its snowfall.

Things do seem to be improving lately, quarter over quarter, but slowly. Which is why I'm bivied at my atelier this weekend instead of in the Valley.

In fact, today I'm working on the exterior elevations (the Fun part) of small chalet, to be sited on the very highest private parcel in June Lake's Clark Tract. On a narrow pad hemmed in hard by a 50 foot cliff band behind, and a steep drop off below, the property commands an outstanding prospect of Carson Pk, across the canyon, from about its 1/3 height.

Since the Owner has predetermined the classic lines of a Tyrolean Chalet, I won't really get to experiment much with the plate glass and flying steel the site deserves. But I think I'll be able to carve out some innovation as the opportunities suggest themselves.

Half the reward of my line are the people my Work it brings me into contact with; in this case, both husband and wife are physicians, who've owned this lot since 1960, together with some adjacent lots on which they've already another cabin. At age 86, he continues his practice of an anathesiologist, and comes across with a terrific vitality.

This is likely due to an active climbing career in his younger days. The portion of his retired rack he's chosen to display include ring-angle and vertical pitons; steel carabiners. By the time the Work nears completion, I hope to hear some good tales about his adventures.

Believe me, if I could help kickstart Padula's restoration project, I would. Both the man and his Work are brilliant. It was a true pleasure to participate in his Q&A session, which followed his personal screening of both El Capitain, and Nyala during my college years at Berkeley. Many such events were a fairly common opportunity at School, and I got to hear from Bonnington; Whittaker; Rowell; and a Bridwell fresh off his and Brewer's alpine ascent of The Compressor Route.

Usually, my questions of these climbing luminaries were along the lines of "how can one integrate a professional and a climbing lifestyle with a life spent actually living in a home within the Mountains?"

The best advice came from Gaylen Rowell. I forget just what it was that he actually said, but it was to the effect that "you just go for it."

And I guess I must have been paying attention, because we were to relocate to the Bishop area nearly 25 years before he and Barbara did. Our untimely and tragic loss of them both in an aviation incident occurred before I had the opportunity to reintroduce myself to Galen, and personally thank him for his words of advice.
Farouk

Boulder climber
Sylvan Grove
Oct 7, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
That's a lot of words to say you are broke, but you still have a dollar!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sell something on ebay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Midzone

climber
San Francisco
Oct 11, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
Has anyone else read the article on the making of the El Capitan movie in the most recent issue of Alpinist (40, I think)? Sounds as if money was a constant problem from almost the beginning of the project. The article is a good rendition of the problem of people trying their hardest to make a noncommercial work of art in an expensive medium (which film was in the predigital era).


KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Oct 11, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
Farouck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'd peddle my own ass if I thought there'd be any takers!!!!!!!!!!

I'm so cheap that once upon a time, I rented the IMAX Everest flick!!! - to play it a home on the 12" CRT TV which constitutes my Home Theater Media Center!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Right now, the Town has been adjudged a Chapter 9 Bankruptcy!!!But the abjucation, some 8 years to reach a final settlement, still obligates the Town to pay off its $29m, mediated settlement in annual $2m installments, for the next 30 years!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Naturally, this $ has to come from somewhere!!! So, in addition to the consideration of a 1% sales tax increase, it looks as if the Town has going to continue to "restructure," and lay off many more of the staff it hasn't already!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


And currently, the Town Council is scrutinizing it Police Dept, and its remaining LEO, since the PD's $2m+ budget is its largest single annual line item!!!!

Already, to keep the constituency safe, they need to allocate plenty of overtime for Mammoth's proudest!!!!! There's talk of contracting with the Mono County Sheriff's Dept, and eliminating the Town's Police Dept altogether!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!and this will leave many Men in Blue short on their PERS pension funds!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Already, there's a brewing firestorm of "D.F's" - Displaced Fuzz!!!!!!!!! ! !!! !

"Just give me a least a chance to give one citizen a hard time, Chief! !! !"

Some of them have already accepted reassignment to Friendly Finance (on a consignment basis), and have taken up the repossession trade.

I already know of at least one invalid who was locked out of their iron lung for late rent.

D.F. 1 - "That's quite a gadget you got there, at-home dialysis! !! !!! IV"

D.F. 2 - " 'Quite a gadget indeed; Hmm - quite a gadget!'
'but you're already six months behind on your installments!!! !' "

D.F. 1 - "Quite a gadget!"

D.F. 2 - "Quite a gadget! !"

D.F. 1 - " ' Quite a gadget!'
'But you got the carrying charges!! !! !"

D.F. 2 - "Anna depreciation!"

D.F. 1 - " ' Check!"
' Anna depreciation!' "

D.F. 2 - " 'We got a job to do, that's all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!'
' all right, let's unplug it and get moving!!!!' "

Husband - " ' Gosh, guys! - just give me 2 more days!'
'to dodge eviction from our provisio' "

(they've lived in provisos all their life, that is, living rent free in housing that's about to be condemned by the officials for vermin infestation, and pending structural failures) (and now the landlord ha promised to bring the property up to Health Code standards, having found another tenant who's will to part with some rent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and has served them with an alfalfa bale sized sheaf of eviction papers, including Section 16, Clause IX.B.f.ii (2a), which can only be deciphered with an electron microscope and a virus filter, and on which he failed to notice and appear before the Ninth Circuit District of Appeals Court before the 10 year statute of limitations expired!)!

D.F. 1 - " 'Awl right; I'll take over the script from here'
" 'another 2 days with the machine and her kidneys are functioning again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ' "

Husband - "Maybe she'll stop pissing all my loot down the drain!!!!!!!!!!!"

D.F. 1 - "'Yeah'
'But she's stinking up the whole end of "Mossy Brook Circle." '
" ' "That's a violation of the Homeowners Association CC&Rs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" " "

" ' " 'Maybe you could peddle your purple ass in the plaza pissoirs' " ' "

D.F. 2 - "Yeah, if he'll stand still for it! !! !!! !!!!(!)"

D.F. 1 - " Hahaha ha!!!!! !!! !! !"
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Oct 12, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
bump, cuz i wanna see it in Hi-def!
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Oct 12, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
YoSteve!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's on IMAX awredy, just dial her up on your iPhone...
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Oct 12, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
Oh man I will scrounge some cash for this and I'm really broke. That is hands down the best climbing movie ever made.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 17, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
Up for a good cause..

Can anyone contact Chouinard or Others who really could give this a serious boost.

It's a shame this amazing film is out of production and the opportunity to see it in better than ever form is not something the climbing world should miss.
10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Oct 17, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
he's got two weeks to raise another $15k~.
be nice if a big name climbing corp (patagonia or bd) would pitch in
turd

climber
Oct 18, 2012 - 12:53am PT
Bump for a great film.

Anyone have a feel for how well this has been advertised on other sites? 2 weeks for 15K feels a little tight to me, and it would be a shame if this project fell through due to lack of advertisement or too tight a timeline.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Oct 18, 2012 - 03:14am PT
Only 24 posts on this site...
10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Oct 18, 2012 - 10:11am PT
John,
I haven't looked, but do you know if it was posted on MP?
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Oct 18, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
Yes, I posted it on the home page under the news section.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Oct 20, 2012 - 11:48am PT
Wow, only a $15 donation gets you one of the most classic climbing movies ever! What a deal.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 20, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
I pledged and I'm wondering if Kickstarter allows extensions to the fundraising window. It would be a shame if this project went up in smoke over a few thousand dollars at deadline.
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Oct 20, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
Most Kickstarter campaigns gets lots of action when they first get posted, and then they level off, finally getting a big rally as the deadline gets closer. I think this one is on track to maybe just make it. Personally, I think he's offering the DVD's and Blu-Ray's at too low of a contribution. It doesn't seem to be enough to actually cover the costs of the actual reward, let alone leave enough money for the restoration of the film. I've already given $30 for the Blu-ray, but I'll give more if it comes up short on the deadline day.
xtrmecat

Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
Oct 20, 2012 - 07:29pm PT
Bump to the top. Pledge done. Have some giving ground to make up, and one of you out there knows why. Thanks for the push, and thanks to CMac for his FB post reminder.


Burly Bob and wife Kim
FredPadula

Mountain climber
Mill Valley
Oct 23, 2012 - 10:26am PT
Thanks for the support everyone. Please share the Kickstarter page with your friends. We have 8 days to go and need a lot more contributions to reach our goal. I've really been trying to get El Capitan back in circulation and it's been a big effort and expense and need a little help to make this successful.

Thank you again and please feel free to contact me directly at elcapitalthemovie@gmail.com or fredpadula@hotmail.com.
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
Oct 23, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
Pledge made. Thanks for bringing your film back to life Fred!
10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Oct 23, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
Fred, have you contacted asked any climbing companies for financial support?
FredPadula

Mountain climber
Mill Valley
Oct 23, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
Yes, we have contacted all the ones we felt were likely to support the film and are still waiting to hear from a few. Any suggestions are welcome. Kickstarter has us on a tight schedule.

Thank you again to everyone for your support.
Nilepoc

Boulder climber
Tx
Oct 23, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
Pledged and begging on Facebook.
Dave Johnson

Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
Oct 24, 2012 - 07:18am PT
1981 screening in Sacramento I organized
1981 screening in Sacramento I organized
Credit: Dave Johnson
Donated. The film is beautiful. I went to a showing in S.F. in the late-70's. Nobody had seen anything like it. I recall Fred had an ad to rent the film in Climbing. In 1982, some friends and I were going on a climbing trip to Peru so I organized a screening at CSUS in Sacramento to raise money. A buddy, Mark Hudon, signed on to present his slide show, "The Long, Hard & Free". I think Mark took beer in lieu of money.

I peppered the local colleges and outdoor stores with posters and we had a full house. We even made a few bucks - at $2 a head. Both the film and slide show were big hits. Don't miss an opportunity to own a quality, restored DVD of this terrific film.

crankster

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Oct 24, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
This is a great film. I remember seeing it on PBS, I think. Anyway, it really left an impression. Happy to donate to get a copy.
QITNL

climber
Oct 24, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
Nice little interview:
http://rockadventuremovie.com/filmdiary/?p=1570

Fred, could you tell me more about the soundtrack/score? It's very cool.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 24, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
There are not too many things that drastically changed the course of my life.

This film really did. I borrowed this film in VHS so many times from my local climbing shop (AMH).

So eventually I ended up driving into Yosemite completely sleep deprived and nodding off at the wheel through Tuolumne..I crushed my fingers in the window .. I yelled and screamed in order to stay awake.. I could not stop

There was only one place I wanted to go.. As I came around the corner after exiting a tunnel I saw ElCap for the first time..

I navigated a crazy bunch of roads and drove past camp four at a high rate of speed.. I found some pullout next to a meadow and stared upward at my destination ..jumped out of the car grabbing my rock shoes.

I nearly flew through the woods and came to the sacred stone... I touched it, put my shoes on and began to climb...

Thanks Fred

Lets make this happen
crasic

climber
Oct 24, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
Pledged, only 9k to go!
pelut espania

Big Wall climber
Espania
Oct 24, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
I donat too right now as these film make my career as climber start. It would be nice if ol Americans pay the money to have this film new again and if you post all day on this bored for free and are tipical crybaby trustafariani' American pay some money as this site is not your diary ok?
Mr. Rogers

climber
The Land of Make-Believe
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
bump bump, biz-ump...

One week to go, let's make it happen.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 24, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
Repost Bump

I borrowed this film in VHS so many times from my local climbing shop (AMH).

So eventually I ended up driving into Yosemite completely sleep deprived and nodding off at the wheel through Tuolumne..I crushed my fingers in the window .. I yelled and screamed in order to stay awake.. I could not stop

There was only one place I wanted to go.. As I came around the corner after exiting a tunnel I saw ElCap for the first time..

I navigated a crazy bunch of roads and drove past camp four at a high rate of speed.. I found some pullout next to a meadow and stared upward at my destination ..jumped out of the car grabbing my rock shoes.

I nearly flew through the woods and came to the sacred stone... I touched it, put my shoes on and began to climb...

Thanks Fred

Lets make this happen
Buffalotarheel

Trad climber
Buffalo, NY
Oct 25, 2012 - 08:00am PT
6 days to go...
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Oct 25, 2012 - 09:14am PT
Here's a bumpy link to Kickstarter:

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1765735821/el-capitan-film-restoration

C'mon, just do it!
tbrain

climber
Boston, MA
Oct 25, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
done. thanks Fred.
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Oct 25, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
Nearly $18,000 so far, just 6 days to raise $7000 more!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 26, 2012 - 08:29am PT
I will double my donation on the second to last day if I have to.

Lets make this happen
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 26, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
To the top till it's done
crasic

climber
Oct 26, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
5 days for 5k
Zander

climber
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
I've seen this film a bunch of time, though not recently. It is great. I hope it makes it over the top.
Zander
jghedge

climber
Oct 26, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
I'm a union DIT (Digital Imaging Tech), and $25k to restore an 8mm short seems a tad steep (no pun intended)

Are there any details online?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 26, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
It's 16mm and I seem to recall it being around an hour long? 86000 frames you do the math. One of the few GREAT historical climbing films in english. I hope he does make a couple K for his effort anyway it's work well worth more than he ever made on this film.


click the clicky for way more info and some of the footage

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1765735821/el-capitan-film-restoration
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 26, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
Political work whining aside RussnHedge, it would be nice to get an obscure but great movie in hard copy form for 50 bucks or so.

Some times art is elevated above grovelling opinion. Some also think if you can't vote on it you can't eat it or f*#k it either...
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 26, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
Just a $15 donation gets you the DVD. $20 Gets the Blu-Ray!! Basically a pre-order that gets this thing done.

But don't be cheap Go Big

Please.

Post this on Euro messsage boards whatever you can think of.

Someone call their contacts. Some equipment manufacturer should jump on the chance to be a big sponsor of a movie that will probably outlast the company. Have a legacy! I tried to bug a couple folks at TNF but its been too long since I had the right numbers to get ahold of.
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Oct 26, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
$25K too steep? Hell, you get a poster, a t-shirt AND a Blu-Ray for $30!!! That sh!t ain't free!
jghedge

climber
Oct 26, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
Shot in 16mm?
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Oct 26, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
This is from the Kickstarter page:

By 1995 El Capitan was only available on VHS tapes. The 16mm prints were fading and damaged from wear and tear and since the internegative had been damaged, new prints could no longer be made.

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1765735821/el-capitan-film-restoration
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 26, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
There's also the option of suppliers and outdoor equipment manufacturers to buy up remaining capacity and have the product as inventory to sell for a mark up beyond the cut off.

This ain't so evil. I imagine some are feeling like this idea is like scalping concert tickets but really it's an opportunity in fair supply and demand with the producers meeting their goal.

Patagonia makes clothing but I love having been able to buy Glenn Denny's book, Yosemite in the Sixties through their publishing arm. Super cool book...
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 26, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
Jhedge

Yes it was shot on a 16mm arriflex

More info here also

http://rockadventuremovie.com/filmdiary/?tag=glen-denny
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 26, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
I'm a backer.

Gotta say, Can't stand that Amazon had anything to do with the pledging process…

I've gone against me better judgement and entered a CC into the amazon account hoping that my CC information is not leaked to Jeb in the south.

Getting close to the goal and I'm hopeful
jomey

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:24am PT
+1

4 days to go ... Let's finish it.
Zander

climber
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:57am PT
I just increased my pledge.
Nilepoc

Boulder climber
Tx
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:12am PT
$2000 to go!
turd

climber
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:31am PT
Bump with an increased pledge.

Less than 2K to go!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Oct 27, 2012 - 11:58am PT
PLEDGED!
YosemiteSteve

Trad climber
CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
No need to sweat it anymore...with only $1500 to go in four days, it's a done deal!

Now the question is how much OVER $25K will it go? I'll give it at least $27 at this point.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 27, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
Never count chickens before they hatch.. When close to the goal ya gotta finish with a hard push.

But I am really stoked ..looks like it's gonna happen

Even so If you havn't donated please realize it works as a pre-order. $20 donation gets you the Blu-Ray. Thats a fair deal by any standard.

Donate and watch a pre-view here

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1765735821/el-capitan-film-restoration
FredPadula

Mountain climber
Mill Valley
Oct 27, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Big thank you folks. The fundraising for the digital restoration of El Capitan on Kickstarter has almost reached its goal.

Hopefully the pledges will keep coming and the restoration will continue towards completion and El Cap will once again be available.

Thank you again,
Fred

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1765735821/el-capitan-film-restoration
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
Who else got this from the El Cap project:


Project Update #4: 600+ Pledges and 4 Days to Go!
Posted by Fred Padula
Hi Everyone,

Great news. As of this morning, we’ve gotten more than 600 pledges. I'm very grateful and overwhelmed at the support you've all shown.

Please continue to spread the word! We have 4 days to go and we're almost there.

Thank you very much,

Fred


Update: $1221 in funding to go....

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1765735821/el-capitan-film-restoration

10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Oct 27, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
Never count chickens before they hatch

+1. it ain't over till it's over
I'll add a little more
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
Update:
$1091 left to go....
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
Bad Ass Update:
$991 Left to go…

Even $20 at a time will get the project off the ground with time to spare….

Cheers all
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Oct 27, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
Jingy,

That $100 was mine......ha!

Almost there......
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
Update:
$931 left….

Like the little train that could….


EBG - What your benefit for giving away the hun… Oh yeah.. Tax Deductions… I see.. bwahaha

Good jobs, its gonna get made I sure of it
Matt Thomsen

Big Wall climber
Places
Oct 27, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
I doubled my pledge! I hope it helps.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
^^^ Nice... EBG bares all ^^^



Update:
$901 to go.. this might happen within days (because there are only days left to get there....!!


Second Update:
$871 left... this still might happen within days (because there are still only days left to get there....!!


Third Update:
$841 left to go... still this still might still happen within days (because there are still only days left to go)....!!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 27, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
Just doubled my pledge !

This is a movie I've tried for years to obtain in hard copy, I hope we make it. The article in Alpinist 40 concerning making the film is incredible.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
Update….

$811 left to go y'all
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
Update:

Right before my eyes I'm watching the climbing community throw their collective hands up to insure this project is a success!!

$541 left....

I Just got an email via kickstart from the director Fred Pedula... Nice to be appreciated for something..

Cheers all


Another update:
4:04PM 10/27/12
$481 to go

10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
props to Jingy.
I think it's going to happen
come on peeps sixteen people @ $30 should do it.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
Update:
$421 missing, we gotta find it… Do you have it?
You can put it back by visiting:
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1765735821/el-capitan-film-restoration
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
Is there some way I can pledge, either directly or through someone else, and get a copy of the DVD - without signing up for yet another website, etc etc etc?

Also, I noticed in the fine print that they want $US25 for out of country shipping, which seems a lot more than should be needed to mail a DVD in a mailer to Canada.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
I can make that happen, but I have no idea how…

Do you have a paypal account?

But you should act quick.. Update:

$391 to go
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
$361 left to go….
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
No, I don't have a PayPal account - on the occasions when I buy something online, I usually pay directly. I'll pledge $50 if someone can look after the details - getting the amount recorded on the website, and receiving and shipping the DVD.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
Anders,

It's just like buying a book from Amazon. The only pestering they do to your internet machine is to ask in 1 email if the service was satisfactory.

The 25 bills US to ship outside of the States probably has more to do with sending by steamship to Europe and all those other places on Earth that Canada gets lumped into !
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
Mighty Hiker -
I'll pledge $50 if someone can look after the details - getting the amount recorded on the website, and receiving and shipping the DVD.

I am going to add your $50 to the kickstart, I will send you a PM from suptopo with my email address included with the receipt, then you may send me your address to send the DVD to.

Clear?

Post review edit:
I just checked the site t find that is knows that I pledged the $100 from before… There is no indication that I can make a second pledge for the $50.. Checking now
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Too late, or I just got conned into getting a second DVD and t-shirt for a second pledge @ $50…

Update:
$156 to go, I hear that Fred had to start the restoration machine to get it warm just in case we got over the line today!!!


Post Read Edit
Sort of a hassle. It can be done, but it would be much cleaner if Anders just sorta made it happen.

 Yeah, might be a hassle, but my life is kinda void of meaning and/or purpose pretty much going forward… So it's not that much of a hassle. Plus, it shows me that I'm better than many republigoons… I just don't mind helping others...
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
You're doing the Lords work Jingy!

 There is no god, no "lord" needed
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 27, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
Thanks, Jingy - happy to help you find meaning in life, although it involves some nuisance for you. PM sent.

I just balked at a unsimple registration/payment setup, plus the idea that I'd have to pay another $25 for shipping.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
When a guy spends his weekends splitting time between browsing the web watching Champions League/English Premier League soccer and keeping tens on someone else's kickstart project… You know there is something very wrong…

Nilepoc

Boulder climber
Tx
Oct 27, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
141 Togo I am happy it's getting funded.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
needing three more pledges to meet the goal, come on folks!!!!
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
Update:
$101 is all that is needed to get this ball rolling….

tell a friend
MisterE

Social climber
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
Just gave what I could.
DonC

climber
CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
I can't take the suspense! Just donated $101.00 to hit the total.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
ITS DONE…

The $25G goal has been met!!!

Kick ass.

Now I get a DVD of a movie I have never seen and a t-Shirt….

The world is a better place after all

Cheers to the contributors
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
This community is awesome.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
Don C Awesome!! You are all amazing.

3 days ago the project still needed $9000 Yesterday with 5 days to go it still needed $5000 I was really worried it was gonna come up short. Now generations of climbers will have this great film to enjoy.

Oooh I can't wait to see this in HD. If you donated and have never seen it you WILL be blown away by it.

I'll bet Mr Padula is a very happy and shocked man right now.

He has a bit of work to do :)
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
This is super cool !

For all the dross and BS that is life as well as ST forum, we do tend to pull together for something good. Talk about a target group of sympathizers!

Is there a chance that an extra copy could go to Ian (Charlie) Gill ?
drapnea

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
Made it!
Over $25,000 in donations.
I'm looking forward to seeing it in HD
DonC

climber
CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
I can't remember the year, but my first trip to the base of the Nose was helping carry a load for Mugs Stump as a young teen.

Can't wait to see the film.
Nilepoc

Boulder climber
Tx
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
Can't wait to get my copy. Thanks everyone.
turd

climber
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
$25,180 and still going. Kick ass!
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 28, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
To be totally clear….

$25,787 is the current stance…

I've seem the kickstart programs in the past complete the goal by as much as $10,000… But that was for something completely different projects…

In this instance, no 'one person' holds all the cards (which I know the republigoons hate) but we all have a hand in it (which I know the repuligoobs hate because it's socialism plain and simple…)

Guess what?

That's how plenty of good sh#t can get done, and this is the best, clearest example I can think of.

Not everything has to be 'for profit' and run by the greedy…

treez

Trad climber
99827
Oct 28, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
The Alpinist article is required reading.

I will be contributing.
Fletcher

Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
Oct 28, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
Glad to see this made it!

These things have a way of looking like they're going to have an uphill battle making it mid-cycle, but there always seems to be a big rally at the end. I've participated in a few that I thought were goners, but they all pulled it out.

Eric
canyoncat

Social climber
SoCal
Oct 28, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
A little extra never hurt. Looking forward to the film.
Mr. Rogers

climber
The Land of Make-Believe
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
Awesome.
crasic

climber
Oct 28, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
In this instance, no 'one person' holds all the cards (which I know the republigoons hate) but we all have a hand in it (which I know the repuligoobs hate because it's socialism plain and simple…)

Incredible strawman, this isn't socialism because its voluntary participation in an economic endeavor.

Also, why do you assume republicans and conservatives are opposed to crowd sourcing?

Using your logic, the stock market is the largest socialist institution on the planet.

Also, the unambigious winner in this entire thing is amazon and kickstarter with their 10% cut off every project :)

Excited for my dvd though. I upped my pledge to get more goodies.
MisterE

Social climber
Oct 28, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
Stay classy, Supertopo.

This is good stuff here.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 28, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
crasic, Kickstarter and Amazon provide a service to help facilitate a commercial enterprise. Yes, love is in the air about the distribution of a niche demand film but you don't expect this to include free administration do you ?

It's a climbing movie not a food airlift to Darfur.
crasic

climber
Oct 28, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
crasic, Kickstarter and Amazon provided a service to help facilitate a commercial enterprise. Yes, love is in the air about the distribution of a niche demand film but you don't expect this to include free administration do you ?

I agree completely and don't think its really a problem, I was merely pointing out the bad logic the sentiment (not made by me) that kickstarter is somehow shoving it to the greedy capitalists.
treez

Trad climber
99827
Oct 28, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
Aren't you that hippy that tried to park at theLeap for free!?!?!/

JHC!

;)
crasic

climber
Oct 28, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
Yep.

Not sure how that makes me a hippy though ;)

Gaming the system to your advantage is a rather libertarian concept :)


QITNL

climber
Oct 28, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
Congrats to Fred and all!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 4, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
An e-mail I got today.. psyched!


Project Update #6: We did it!
Posted by Fred Padula Like

Hi Everyone,

With your generous help, we reached our goal and more. I'm so appreciative of the overwhelming response and support for El Capitan. I've been aware that people have wanted access to the film for many years now and am very happy that I can finally make it available.

Now we can get back to work. I hope to have all the production completed by the end of the year and to mail the awards out shortly after this.

I will be contacting you in the upcoming weeks to get your t-shirt size and with ongoing progress reports.

Thank you again. We could not have continued on with the restoration without all of your support.

Sincerely,

Fred
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Nov 4, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
Tom Evans deserves our love, too.  I take liberties, possibly.  You kn...
Tom Evans deserves our love, too. I take liberties, possibly. You know this and other Tom Evans posters are available thru his El Cap Report.
Credit: Tom Evans
Christmas is coming.

I humbly suggest shop online for these outstanding local climbing photographers.

Tom Evans.
http://www.elcapreport.com/content/posters


Tom Frost.
http://www.frostworksclimbing.com/tom_frost_coll.htm
http://archive.org/details/TomFrostInterview

Glen Denny.
http://www.colorfolio.com/showcase/glendenny.htm
http://www.glendenny.com/

Tony Rowell. http://www.astrophotostore.com/

Galen and Barbara Rowell. http://www.mountainlight.com/

Vern Clevenger. http://www.vernclevenger.com/MammothTimes.html

I have met and appreciated all of these folks, Barbara Rowell excepted. They all are worthy of my support, had I the bucks.

Merry Crust-breaking, eKat, f-stop, and Faceplant!!!


CONGRATULATIONS TO FRED & GLEN!!!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 4, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
Good ideas.. Secret Santa stuff right there.
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Nov 4, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
Congratulations to Fred. So nice to keep the climbing history alive and to date.
I got the same message Climbtoski. Looking forward to seeing the film in its new and reconditioned mode.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 4, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
To add to MFM's list:

Ed Cooper - http://www.edcooper.com/
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
Nov 5, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
good job..thanks
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 6, 2013 - 10:42am PT
For those of you interested in seeing El Capitan on a larger screen we will be showing the restored film at the Oakdale Climbers Festival on Friday October 18, 2013. The theme for the evening is: Through Our Eyes- Climbing on Film.

Fred and other folks on the crew will be talking about making the film including potentially Lito Tejada-Flores should he be this far north in October along with his also newly restored Fitzroy film.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
Mar 22, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
Any word on status?
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 22, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
Was wondering that myself
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Mar 22, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
Yo tambien. ¡Quiero por favor!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 23, 2013 - 07:41am PT
Last update I got was mid January. Sounded like he had hoped to be out in Feb. I am not surprised this is taking some time.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 23, 2013 - 10:09am PT
Fred is really busting his ass to get the restoration wrapped up asap.

Those of you that are thinking about coming to the Oakdale Climbers Festival will be able to see the restored film AND be among the first to see the documentary piece that Fred has put together about making the film and the friendships that resulted from the collaboration.

These two films will be shown last on Friday evening October 25.

More on Oakdale 2013 shortly.
QITNL

climber
Mar 23, 2013 - 10:46am PT
That's great to hear. As I mentioned at the top of this tread, a restoration like this involves a LOT of work and they are on a shoestring budget. These projects often take much longer than one expects; as a labor of love, I'm sure they are paying great attention to detail. I bet the wait will be worth it, best luck to them.
10b4me

Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
May 16, 2013 - 07:35am PT
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1765735821/el-capitan-film-restoration/posts/481941?fb_action_ids=10151456986180765&fb_action_types=og.likes&fb_source=other_multiline


marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
May 18, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
Mine just arrived!

!!!
!!!
Credit: marty(r)

Looking forward to sharing this with some Claremont folks. McCracken and Colliver loom large in my dad's high school memories.
scooter

climber
fist clamp
May 18, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
Has anyone ever watched the TV show Portlandia? They have a whole show devoted to this topic.
David D.

Trad climber
Monterey
May 18, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Is there going to be a way to buy it asides from Kickstarter?
kit...

Trad climber
San Diego
May 18, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
Was wondering the same. Missed out on the kickstarter option but would really like to purchase a copy.

Thanks,

Kit
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
May 18, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
Just got my copy!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
May 18, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
Oh man, I can't wait to go home and see if my copy is there! :)
Thomas

Trad climber
The Tilted World
May 20, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
Bump for awesomeness and the hopes that someone will explain how to get a copy if one missed the original fundraising campaign.

Looks rad. Cheers!
crunch

Social climber
CO
May 20, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
My copy just arrived! Thanks Fred!
kit...

Trad climber
San Diego
May 22, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
Bump again in the hopes of more info. Come on, somebody?
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
May 22, 2013 - 08:25pm PT
Kit,

Fred Padula has a Facebook page as well as the Kickstarter avenue for contacting him for a copy.

I can't imagine they made only enough copies to satisfy subscribers leading to the Kickstarter cut off date. Send him a note !
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
May 23, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
Today an email arrived from Kickstarter with a project update from Fred. This is a work of love for a piece of art by one man to share it.

Fred has stated this for people interested in his film but missed the fund raiser:

"But I have been adding people's names to a list and as soon as I complete the Kickstarter awards distribution, I will deal with how to distribute the film and then contact everyone on the list.
So for those interested, e-mail:

elcapitanthefilm@gmail.com

Thank you again, Fred"

There ya go Kit !
Dave Johnson

Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
May 23, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
Got my poster last week. Already framed. DVD & t-shirt will be mailed soon. Can't wait; I haven't seen the film in over 30 years.
Credit: Dave Johnson
kit...

Trad climber
San Diego
May 26, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
Thanks, Jim Brennan! My googling didn't turn up his facebook for some reason. Sent him an email.

 Kit
George Bell

Trad climber
Colorado
May 28, 2013 - 07:35am PT
Just watched the BluRay version last night. Wow! How do you think they filmed that sequence with the full moon passing in front of the climber in silhouette on the wall? These days, one would just do it by digitally merging two shots, but in 1968, I have to think it is real.

For the full moon to fill the frame you'd have to use at least a ... 2000mm lens? It is cool that you can see the moon moving and the climber moving in real time. The moon really moves really fast when zoomed in so close. I would think they only had one chance at filming that sequence!

The night climbing scenes are pretty much black, but the sound track is very real. Reminds me of getting benighted on a climb in Yosemite. Did they really have no head lamps? Looks like they are truly climbing in the dark in that sequence.

Thanks, Fred, for updating this classic film!!
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
May 28, 2013 - 08:17am PT
Got my poster over the weekend. It's a real beauty!

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 28, 2013 - 09:07am PT
Still waiting excitedly for my copy to come... I've got the poster "relaxing" on the table...

How do you think they filmed that sequence with the full moon passing in front of the climber in silhouette on the wall?

assuming it's 16 mm film, the moon subtends a 0.5º angle (=0.009 radians) so to fill the frame you have:

0.009 = 16 mm/f

f = 16mm/0.009 = 1833 mm

with a film camera you'd use a zoom lens... don't know the standard lenses for film cameras though...

to set up the shot you'd take the size of the scene you'r interested in, say you wanted a 50 foot section of the climb, a climber would be a little more than 10% of that scene... then

0.009 = 50 ft/d

where d is the distance from the scene you'd have to setup...

d = 50 ft/0.009 = 5,556 feet, a little more than a mile away.

Now you have to find the place that gets the Moon and your scene on a common bearing, and that's a trick but the calculations are available (and usually trial and error in shooting during multiple attempts)

The moon is "late" by nearly 2 hours on consecutive days... that would mean the sky is lighter and the contrast between the moon and sky less... but that's a second order consideration.

All in all, I find setting up the real shot to be easier and results in a better image than photoshopping in a moon, as easy as that is these days. And the rush of having the scene come together after the planning is a feeling I relish.

Lloyd Campbell

Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
May 28, 2013 - 09:31am PT
Denny came back to the Valley in the autumn to jug fixed lines on El Cap and shoot scenes of swifts darting off the side of the cliff. Padula used a telescope to film a full moon rising over the Big Stone. The following spring, Denny trained his camera on Horsetail Falls. He thought the water glinting off the side of El Cap could make a lyrical opening for the movie. If it ever got made.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP40/40-elcap
George Bell

Trad climber
Colorado
May 28, 2013 - 10:54am PT
In the age of UTube and helmet cams, that film marks a point in history. I forgot about the article in Alpinist. It is interesting that the film makers had so many disagreements, these days nobody thinks twice before uploading their climbing videos on UTube.

I can't imagine doing the King Swing with a few strands of webbing about my waist, man that would be painful!
david r

Social climber
Seattle now NY then
Jun 3, 2013 - 11:51am PT
Hi All.
Any word on obtaining the dvd apart from the kickstarter project?
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jun 3, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
Watched this, finally. Beautiful to see.

It starts a bit slow, but gradually draws you in, and in a big way. After a while you realize that every climbing movie you've seen in the last decade started out with the idea of desperately grabbing the viewer's attention in the first 15 seconds. The slow build-up is so laid back, so unusual it looks original, new.

The technical aspects, sound, color, are expertly managed. Colors look just about perfect. Sound is managed well. I heard they had real struggles with the sound equipment, but in the end they won, because the finished DVD sounds great. Loved the various sounds of the pitons being hammered on. Must have been desperate to balance loud percussive hammering with quiet voices.

The actual climbing is what really sucks you in. No idea how much was staged, how much actual footage (lots of scenes with a camera above the lead climber, so clearly some staging) but the climbers handled this well; no showboating, all appeared pretty authentic.

Not so psyched on the soundtrack; it's a bit jarring, judged against the down-to-earth humor of the climbers, and it's overly strong for the subtle natural-scenery shots. Does give an authentic late-60s experimental feel though; a good reminder that this is no nostalgia trip, it's the real thing.

And it really is the real thing: a powerfully-realized, individual artistic vision. There's not a hint of compromise or of short-cutting. I love how the climbers are not the focus. The movie begins and ends with long, slow shots of the cliffs and scenery. The climbers are just there to give scale, proportion. The Nose of El Cap is the real star. Not a hint of "human-interest" backstories on who the climbers are. Very brave, very original. Very difficult to pull off. Yet it works.

My wife, of short attention span with movies, initially was skeptical, eventually was converted, and has already started lending it out to friends, a sure sign of a keeper. (Though how long we'll keep hold of this copy I don't know....)


Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jun 3, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
David F look at my post above for info.
John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
Jun 20, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
after a few tense moments waiting to see if the old Blu-ray player would read the disk, climbing film bliss... Thanks Fred and all who helped. Priceless.

jb
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jun 20, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
Still waiting ... hopefully it won't be much longer now before the stuff shows up in the mail!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jun 20, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Movie and T-shirt arrived last week. Thanks Fred !

Now waiting for the poster...
Nilepoc

Big Wall climber
Tx
Jun 20, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
Still waiting. I hope he got my address change.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 23, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
Got mine last week, watched it with Debbie tonight...

thanks for all the work on this! great to have come together and helped to get it released.

Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
Jun 23, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
I got the poster a while back and the DVD and T-shirt came this past week. What a nice surprise since the project has slipped of my radar (easy to do).

Watched a good chunk of it with my son yesterday. Looks fantastic! Great work!

Eric
Naitch

climber
Seneca area
Jun 24, 2013 - 08:09am PT
Movie and t-shirt arrived. Thanks Fred!
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jun 27, 2013 - 05:36am PT
Movie and Tee Shirt arrived! Thanks Fred!
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Jun 27, 2013 - 10:02am PT
Hey all,

I sent an e mail to the address posted above...never received any kind of response - imagine Fred is a little busy but any help that any of you could give me so I can buy a copy would be much appreciated.

Thanks.
Dave Johnson

Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
Jul 1, 2013 - 08:25pm PT
Tee-shirt & DVD arrived a few days ago. Watched it for the first time in 30 years. Beautiful film. Thanks, Fred.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Jul 2, 2013 - 07:05am PT
I'm with crusher: I haven't been able to find out how I can buy a copy of this film.
Any help?
Thomas

Trad climber
The Tilted World
Sep 4, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
Bump.

I would love to purchase a copy of this film, but never received a response to my initial inquiry email.

Any ideas?
QITNL

climber
Sep 4, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
http://www.elcapfilm.com/buy-the-film.html
Matt Thomsen

Big Wall climber
Places
Sep 4, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
I have donated and have replied to many emails, and have not got my copy yet... What is the best way to contact Fred. I look forward to seeing the video!
10b4me

Ice climber
Soon 2B in Arizona
Sep 4, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
yes, I contributed, and never received my dvd.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 16, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
Contact Fred if there are issues about delivery.

I received my poster last week after asking by email when it would arrive. Fred was quick to respond and the poster is great.

Thanks Fred !
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