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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 2, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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Okay, assembling the guide to the "promised land" Done stuff at courtright?...send it in...i'll try to verify...some very cool routes out there..some unclaimed...gonna wrap it up. Got stuff there?...well...giddy-up!.....f.d.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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That would be..."last call"....f.d.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Not till two am.
BITD
way way back....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 27, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
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bump for update?
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
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Been talking to Kevin Daniels of Fixe/K. Daniels publishing on wrapping up the project. I think that one more Summer of research will get it to a point where a book can start comming together. The biggist problem seems to be the distraction of finding something new to do there and having fun rather than researching...yikes!
I'm sure welcoming any new and old route information as this project comes to closure...dwight
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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So how is the book coming along?
Found some old shots.
These are from "By Juniper there are rings around Uranus"
More on Voyger, Cast of Characters, this is to the right of " Eve of Destruction"
And over on the right side of Voyger, Is "The Gold Standard" 12B/C???
A trip to Courtright would not be complete without a visit to the Power House.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2014 - 10:19pm PT
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It's still happening. Will be up there on the 4th weekend to try to wrap up. Come on by.
My biggest problem is I find stuff I wan't to climb and forget about researching. A new route last weekend on the east face of Penstemon..beautiful .10a/b with Mr. McHam.
So how's the Needles thing coming?
Would be great to cross paths and want to talk to you about the book...d.
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Jun 26, 2014 - 06:08am PT
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Let me know when the guidebook is out. I hope you include the backside of Punk Dome which faces Penstemon Dome. It looks like the bolts provide new routes or different variations as compared to the SEKI guide. Thanks.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jun 26, 2014 - 07:52am PT
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I was on both Seam Stress and Gold Standard last year. Both very good. Hope to get back on both for a RP, maybe over the 4th holiday.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jun 26, 2014 - 09:48am PT
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Slick Watts on Trapper Dome....Orgasmic Addict
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 26, 2014 - 10:00am PT
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John.... cool, what did you think about those two climbs?
Ever tryed "By Jupiter..." that one is so cool.
D.... IMHO 4th of July is to early to go there... if the Skeeters don't get you the meatbees will.....
I'll talk to Kris, see if we can come up..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 26, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
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Low angle climbing.... Courtright has it all.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 26, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
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Low angle climbing.... Courtright has it all.
I was up the Saturday before Father's Day, playing on Spring Dome with the specific intent of giving my calves a workout, so that my "equipment list" for Crest Jewel will be complete. They certainly got a workout, but "buffed calves" they were not!
John
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 26, 2014 - 12:25pm PT
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How were the bugs??????
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 26, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
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What bugs? ;>)
In truth, not bad at all. And we had the Dome to ourselves, which is usually a rarity, given its trivial approach. Even Trapper Dome seemed deserted.
It seemed rather like August, though, for dryness.
John
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 26, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
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Low angle climbing.... Courtright has it all.
There's some steep stuff up there too, well vertical at least. I know, steep means upside down these daze, but it's not all slabbin' at Courtright.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2014 - 04:43pm PT
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Yup, got the back side of Punk as well as the front. Still a lot of unclaimed mystery routes out there.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 26, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
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D...
Do you have "A Knob To Far"?????
PUNK ROCK?
When one parks on the slab.... your headlights are pointing at it.
When both feet are off the ground... your climbing 5.11.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2014 - 11:20pm PT
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Got it...I don't think either of my feet left the ground at the same time...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 27, 2014 - 07:26am PT
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Knob too Far is a Laeger route. Super hard. The crux is a dynamic move on a super thin slab to get to the "Knob to Far." Basically you explode upwards and get a couple of running steps to catch the knob. Best to let your belayer know before going.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 27, 2014 - 08:27am PT
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Knob too Far is a Laeger route. Super hard. The crux is a dynamic move on a super thin slab to get to the "Knob to Far." Basically you explode upwards and get a couple of running steps to catch the knob. Best to let your belayer know before going.
And one needs to be using double ropes, or else your single gets tied into knots.
Lots of climbs at courtright need doubles.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jun 27, 2014 - 08:35am PT
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Have you talked to Laeger to make sure you have all of his routes? I know he and I put a couple on Dusy Dome that might not have ever been reported.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 27, 2014 - 09:58am PT
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Lots of climbs at Courtright need doubles.
Laeger's "Top Secret" on Trapper stumps a lot of folks who don't get the double rope thing. About 30 feet up, protecting a traverse move, there are two bolts about 10 feet apart at exactly the same height. Figure that out with one rope...
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jun 27, 2014 - 10:41am PT
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Both are VERY good and the style I like, thin. I also was up on the highest slab face on the right (where the tree and black streak are). There was what looked like an incomplete route (one or two handmade aluminum hangers down low) to the right of the streak.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 27, 2014 - 03:14pm PT
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John.... thats news to me... so how did you get to that Tree/black streak
ledge?
Walk around? and UP UP????
Also I hope D has the "Swiss Cheese" dome, the one down river from PD.
Rap into the climbs, most are like 2p and run in the hard 9 to mid 10 range.
Herb and Bruce were doing those in like 2005.
So many climbs, so hard to climb them all, and even harder to make a Guide Book that is great.
Much respect D
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jun 27, 2014 - 03:26pm PT
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I really miss that place. We are going to have to get up there this fall for sure!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 27, 2014 - 05:47pm PT
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Johann - looks to me like route "V" in he old SEKI guide, "Unknown", 5.11a??.
Pg. 114.
Guy, you can get to that tree easily by doing Ramp On, 5.6, or P1 & 2 of Unknown...
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
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Yeah, been corresponding with Laeger and got his newer routes in on Dusy and Swiss Cheese. A couple of the field checked Swiss Chees routes have no name, but they're great.Am trying to piece together Trapper and still have questions on the west face. One in particular is a tight line of bolts under a little roof on the far left as well as well as a bolted corner face further left. I need to talk to Loomis, however if anyone has info...
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
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What a great slab!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 27, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
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Loomis I believe did The bolts under the overhang. Don't know about the route left. I climbed it once, one star.
I'll see if my contact info for Scot is up to date.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2014 - 08:28am PT
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It's the two on the left. You think that Loomis did the second from the left? Also find no top anchors on Carson/Kodas. Presuming a tie off on the boulders on top?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 28, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
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Anything easy to set up for kids there? 5.5 - 5.8 slabby with bolted or gear anchors for TR from a 60m rope? Might spend some time there in last half of July
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 28, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
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That's right, no rap anchors on top of Carson Kodas. There's one on the top of Zodiak Mind Ward, etc., and a quick way to get to Carson Kodas is to rap in from there to the start.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 28, 2014 - 01:46pm PT
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NutAgain,
Tiger Cage (as opposed to Tiger Wall). Good .7, Good .8 and a nice .10b right there, I think they all have bolted anchors.
North side of Spring Dome has good easy stuff but I know nothing about length or anchors...
There's one super easy slab at the far eastern end of Trapper south face but it's kind of a joke.
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Gene
climber
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Jun 28, 2014 - 02:57pm PT
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It's been a while since I've been up that way, but there is a small dome (Marmot Dome?) near the campground that has some fun climbs I did with my kids years ago. I recall several kid friendly 5-easy routes. Anyone know what I'm talking about?
g
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2014 - 09:48pm PT
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Marmot and Spring are the same thing...A fun and easily approached dome with some really quality face.
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greyghost
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Jun 30, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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Thanks for posting some beta on the forum. Planning a trip there soon.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 30, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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Cool stuff, thank you.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jul 22, 2014 - 09:45am PT
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Woo hoo! Headin' up there today, will get on Spring/Marmot Dome :)
Will also explore Trapper and whatever else we find up there.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jul 22, 2014 - 09:57am PT
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hi, i am going to courtright the first weekend of aug to check out swiss cheese wall, looks fun, can't wait to climb new stuff, happy climbing mike a.
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| Messages 1 - 40 of total 40 in this topic |
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