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| Messages 1 - 41 of total 41 in this topic |
karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 24, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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Aw yea it's heating up folks!
Hard drilling Pelut and America's own golden boy, Mark Jensen will be facing off in a head to head...
AID OFF!!!
Searching for the worlds first true A6 pitch, these etrier engineers must face the Ultimate Challenge... First one to die loses!
Sharpen your drill bits, prepare your wooden wedges! This is gonna be one wild and slow ride!
Dozens will watch as these Madmen of Mud battle it out, bashie by bashie!
Hammers Ready!!!! Go!!!!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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Edit: First one to die wins!!!! Since no one seems to die on A5, it will be proof of True A6 Motherf*#kas!!!!
Whew, sorry for swearing, it's just THAT exciting.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Sep 24, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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BITD
I pointed out a route to Glen Denny, Royal and others, and they watched me work it over a period of days. The route involves multiple RURPS and knifeblades under expanding flakes along with bashies and mashies. I also experimented with filed-down C-clamps. You have to acrobatically distribute your weight across several (3-5) aid slings at once, as none will hold more than a fraction of your weight. Keeping your weight balanced across the slings is the main challenge of the route.
Glen concluded that if I succeeded in doing it, this would be the first 6.9 rating (back before people adopted the A1-A5 rating system).
I eventually did the climb, solo belaying; not that a belay was particularly relevant, as at the time there was a water faucet pipe sticking up right where you would hit if the RURPS ripped. (Now there is a granite memorial bench there...)
The route is on Columbia Boulder to the left of Midnight Lightning.
Bridwell recently told me that he repeated it several years later, and agreed with the rating.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Sep 24, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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Too funny, Karo!
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 24, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
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TomCochrane
I know that route you're talking about on Columbia. I bet hardly anyone here even knows about it.
It is hard A5 or more.
I also witnessed some guy soloing that thing in the early 70's.
He ripped and decked. He was laying there moaning and we thought he was going to check out any minute.
He was toast. But after a long time he got up and staggered off somewhere ....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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Tom and Werner,
That's not the free climb/problem that (I think) Kauk did just left of the tree is it?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 24, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
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Okay, how can there be A6 when A5 has yet to be truly demonstrated?
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 24, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
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No mortal could or can free climb this thing yet ......
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 24, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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how can there be A6 when A5 has yet to be truly demonstrated?
If I say it's A5 then it's fuking A5 !!!!!!!
:-)
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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Like.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 24, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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Ok Werner, but you can't be everywhere to make the call.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Sep 24, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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Those guys will put it up in 15 days.
....Then Ammon and McCray will climb in in 14 hours.
ahahahahaha
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Sep 24, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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Richard wins. I'll put money on it.
This pic tells me everything I need to know.....
hahahahahahahahahahhahahaahahhaahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahhahahahahha
haahahahahahahahahahahhaahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahhahahahahaha
hahhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahhahahahhahahahahhahahahhahahah
hahhahahhahahahahhahahahahahahhahahahahahahhahahahaahhahahahahhahahhahahaha
.....
died laughing....
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
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^ looks like solid A6. At least Jensen had the decency to solo it, that poor lady belaying Pelut, she must be a zen monk to deal with that boredom... I'll bet he's an hour into that pitch and only 30 feet up or so.
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Sep 24, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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He was toast. But after a long time he got up and staggered off somewhere ....
Was it this guy? Certainly in the high upper echelons and not the least bit cocky.
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madboIter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Sep 24, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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Sweet!! Seems like a great reason for time lapse photography.
ROFL
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 24, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Ok Werner, but you can't be everywhere to make the call.
I don't think you fully understand Werner's transcendence. If I understand his postings on the various religious threads, not only can he be everywhere, he can be everywhere always. No route ever done in any place at any time, even in the future, has been/will be done without him knowing everything about it.
So, like he said:
If I say it's A5 then it's fuking A5 !!!!!!!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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yea, the most exciting, death defying drying paint ever. EVER.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 25, 2012 - 01:42am PT
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Does Peluts sub-man er... chizel wench have to sit this one out?
Beer sponsors need to be chosen.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2012 - 01:46am PT
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Pelut is sponsored by the newly revamped Zima co.
Jensen, gets the Odoul sponsorship.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 25, 2012 - 05:07am PT
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The only beverage Richard would likely endorse would be a Shirley Temple, mate.
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
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Sep 25, 2012 - 07:06am PT
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Da_Dweeb's been getting ripped off on his beer for a while, apparently.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 25, 2012 - 07:18am PT
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What I'm getting at is that Richard doesn't drink alcohol. =)
Also, I'm more of a mead guy myself.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2012 - 11:30am PT
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Odouls is non alcoholic. What a Dweeb.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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Sep 25, 2012 - 11:38am PT
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Why can't they just stand in slings on high and see who can urinate further. That should settle the pissing contest once and for all.
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miwuksurfer
Social climber
Mi-Wuk
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Sep 25, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
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Its 2012. People still aid climb? With pitons?
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 26, 2012 - 06:56am PT
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Odouls is non alcoholic. What a Dweeb.
Hmh. That would explain my tolerance...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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Bob Shonerd could show these guys a thing or two.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Sep 26, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
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What's the story with that bob shoenard fella? He put up a few A5 rated lines over there on the 9 O'clock wall. I heard he left silverware from the cafe for fixed gear. Doubt they have ever been repeated, probably fell down at this point.
Why isn't Klaus in the running for hard aid show down. His routes are probably more feared than anyone's. He has probably climbed more features that have fallen off than anyone else (think about that! Some fragile loose hard scary shit!)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 26, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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Why isn't Klaus in the running for hard aid show down?
Cuz he did the FA they are gonna climb and rated it A2+
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Nov 18, 2017 - 09:50pm PT
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now this is entertaining
now I always knowed there was somethin' off with them Wings of Steel boys... turns out they just dint put out the right kinda, you know, media presence. no selfies or sweaty Ozzie in tights-spliced vimeo montages complete with rental Jeep gnar*
anyway, whatever happend to that bob shoenard guy what done the reality ridge alone and slept with serpents for to fend away the rodents?
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Nov 18, 2017 - 10:33pm PT
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^^^Dude, That's SICK!
and i ain't talkin bout Ozzie without a shirt😜
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 19, 2017 - 09:16am PT
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Ozzie never learned that less is more.
But I would hire those gachupinos for my landscaping.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Nov 19, 2017 - 12:38pm PT
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When you're a government-sponsored climber, you gotta self-promote. It's your job.
I'm glad I have no such pressure to perform. Pressure makes the average man like me go limp.
Thanks to Cam Burns for this pic. We'll see about a TR of Line in the Sand that Plaid and I just completed about two weeks ago. Bottom to top independent line on the SE face of Cottontail.
I'll just never be as pretty or able to withstand the pressure like these well-known professionals!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
West Slope of Powell Butte, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Nov 19, 2017 - 03:10pm PT
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Give a Hoot don’t Pelut
Plaid
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 21, 2017 - 10:12pm PT
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Couldn't have said it better myself...
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Nov 21, 2017 - 11:03pm PT
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I always wondered how people took a leak on death aid routes, now I know.
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Jan 22, 2018 - 07:53am PT
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Richie, as a non government-sponsored climber, you can go there and make the SA. Check out for bashies, drilled holes, wooden pieces saw at site and even lead heads (and if you have time, even hidden little drilled holes like those you found in Intifada). Explain it in a blog and then erase it. Or even write a book explaining you epic ascend of more than 69 days...
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Jan 22, 2018 - 08:45am PT
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say what you will about the tactics of the visiting climbers, that music video ("Somewhere Lost in Utah....Two Men....") left a slimy film on my aura that I can only associate with tallowy donut-wax on Little Debbie products. Something seems artificial or fake but I just can't put a finger on it.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Jan 22, 2018 - 11:44am PT
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Oh Man, remember whe Rivet Hangar was someone who you'd be excited to read their insane troll posts?
Yeah, now just a sad parody.
C'mon RH, there's plenty of fruit in the tree if you just spend the time to shake the trunk a bit. Otherwise you're just coming at us with the rotted fruit of yesteryear's pursuits.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jan 22, 2018 - 11:46am PT
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As exciting as watching golf?
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