Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 83 of total 83 in this topic |
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 11, 2012 - 01:17am PT
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located North L.A right off Highway 1.
This thing is so fun.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
The traverse is a great pump.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Sep 11, 2012 - 01:30am PT
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Yo Pyro! I love that little rock too. Some really fun highball cracks. I usually try to run a few laps when I take the 1 on my way up to Ojai to visit my mom.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Sep 11, 2012 - 01:40am PT
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With such a flat/ innoxuous landing a harness looks a little out of place, but sweet yeah.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 11, 2012 - 01:40am PT
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That thing looks like kick ass fun!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2012 - 01:47am PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
lots of people come to watch whale's, surf and the climber!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 11, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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It f*#king west of LA, almost in Ventura County, for gosh sakes! Good for you it's HIGHWAY ONE!!!
Ha-ha?
It's benign neighbor is a choss heap that gets in more TV commercials than El Capitan, Half Dome, and Mount Shasta combined.
It's a lovely five minutes for the ladies type of summit.
Bob Dylan's ranch is not more than a ten minute drive up the hill from just EAST of the Mugus.
Woo hoo?
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Sep 11, 2012 - 10:29am PT
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My best friend pulled off a hold when topping out at Point Magu back in 87'. He crushed both of his heels and still hobbles around today. I met him for the first time at Stoney point a few weeks after his fall. I was bouldering at Stoney and this dude on canes was shaking his head at me saying I should really be roped up. I thought "who the f@(k is this guy". We've been best friends ever since. I think he was on the 5.11 something face on the right. I think about that particular fall every time I see that piece of rock.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 11, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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Ha, ha, ha....brings back some memories, climbed there with Chouinard a "few" years ago.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Sep 11, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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best l'il crack workhorsehouse in the west. but that's point mugu pebble, lad. the main rock has climbing too, technically a no-no, but climbed nevertheless and, as i understand, not all that bad.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Sep 11, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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medusa reported that a CHP dude stopped at the tunnel crags recently and told him, "i don't even think that's legal". he replied that he has talked to many rangers there who have never had any problem with it, and it's been climbed regularly for a good 15 years. dude went away.
amazes me the people we get enforcing the law who don't even know the law. i got a ticket for driving past a "road closed" sign on mt. pinos last winter, a full two inches of melting snow on pavement. i was cited for violating a statute which restricts traffic for road construction. the judge asked a simple question and dismissed it outright. "ignorance to the law is no excuse." i want the interest on the $193 of bail they sat on for four weeks.
"i don't even think that's legal." these guys need to get a little better education than cadet school.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Sep 11, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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Looks like fun, but I am bummed that they don't allow you to go left
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Sep 11, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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I'm sure the memory fades as you get older chief. The guy who drew the topo is one of the most prolific climbers I've ever known. To anyone who was active in the so cal scene on the 70's and 80's he was a standout. Not so much for climbing accomplishments, although he climber thousands of routes at a very enviable grade, but for sheer knowledge of the sport and technical skill. His father preceeded him as a river guide, climber, actor, educator and in general brilliant guy. Maybe you WERE a 5.12 climber on a good day, we all have good days, which some of us actually remember. Anywho just thought I'd throw the subjective topo into the mix since the subject of Mugu came up.
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Sep 11, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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Absolutely ;)
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 11, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
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I was speaking at some work conference in LA about a decade ago, and took a diversion after my session to drive up there and spend an afternoon. It was disappointing as a destination for multiple hours of driving, but it's a great spot for what it is. Lot's of graffiti when I was there.
The cracks are definitely cool, and highball enough to get your blood pumping but not cause self-recriminations.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Sep 11, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
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Wow it would be a real bummer to get hobbled by Magu rock .
He should change his story to , "fell off the crux of Sea of Dreams in a hailstorm " or something .
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 11, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
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amazes me the people we get enforcing the law who don't even know the law.
Not amazing at all when you consider the amount of new laws and regulations passed each year. Adding to that many of the new laws have some amount of overlap/conflict with prior laws. This is partly due to a regulation happy government that wants to pass a new law for every new situation rather than develop a wider set of principals by which to govern. Another contributing factor (region dependent) is the propositions that get passed by voters. Propositions are not fully vetted before being placed on the ballot. These propositions often conflict with prior laws and need to be taken to court. Soon there will be so many laws no one will be able to keep track of them all and it will become increasingly easy to get falsely busted by confused police or to get busted for a legit but obscure law (same applies to lawsuits).
This is just the pages in the tax code!!! Imagine how much more there is for other federal laws, state laws, county laws and local laws! How can anyone keep up and possibly know if what they are doing is right or wrong?
RANT/OT THREAD DRIFT OVER
back to climbing...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
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random people watch and say hello!
the guy in the picture said hello!
he then walked onto my rope!!!
Matty good to hear from ya!
P.S Donini ur a fossil! :)
chief lets see some old mugu rock stuff.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Sep 12, 2012 - 10:44am PT
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matty, sweetie, please learn a new mantra: ignorance to the law is no excuse.
repeat that sucker until it sinks in.
the CHP is not charged with enforcing the tax laws. people who enforce tax laws generally graduate from both college and law or other professional school.
let's put it another way. my smarty kids recently got through college. lots of their high school chums went to ivy league schools. most of them are lying around trying to figure out what to do. if their families have a little money, they go to graduate school for a few years and then try to figure out what to do. there's lots of bright people competing for not too many jobs. an ignoramus giving out tickets which can be dismissed outright in a court of law should not be allowed to walk the streets with a gun and badge.
back to topic here, it'd be nice to see or read a little about the bigger mugu rock out there. seaside rocks can look chossy, but salt exposure sometimes cements the choss into something climbable.
was at echo last weekend--what a sauna. mugu is a guaranteed pleasant stop all summer long.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Sep 12, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
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Nice shots Pyro and Chief!
Cool to see it pre whitewash.
Check out the rock down by the water in the alcove past the main wall.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Sep 12, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
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I gots photos of dat place from way back. Soloing a couple of those thin cracks was sketch but the hard stuff was on that face on the right side. There were 5.12 eliminates in there. Used to go there with Brother Gaines and DB and smoke 1,000 pipeloads and run laps and watch the waves spool in.
Long ago . . .
JL
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Sep 12, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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Memories - my first exposure to climbing began on this picturesque pile in '75. Good times climbing through the graffiti, bare assing the Winnebagos on Highway 1, drinking warm bottles of Cold Duck and launching homemade fireworks into the fog layer above us.
Didn't have a Mustang - drove a POS Vega wagon.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 12, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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Didn't have a Mustang - drove a POS Vega wagon. Just like the colonel and Henry Barber, in those days.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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Largo would love to see u post up!
Cole hope u stay kool out there.
Chief love ur pic's! kinda nice when the rating is written on the wall.
all others who have commented about Mugu rock thank's.
one of my favorite places to hang, climb, meet people and people watch.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
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thank's cosmic!
p.s hope largo contributes some classic photo's!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Worth the approach.....a ten minute hike would have assured it's virginity.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
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Donini
I pull up to mugu rock put my boots on and pretend I'm climbing some big stone in Patagonia.
Wish I were you!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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I'm gonna get hold of Bro Gaines and see if he has any pics from back then.
JL
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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And it's only minutes from surfing.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2013 - 01:28am PT
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peaceful look'n surf in the above picture!
bet the pro's have parked at mugu just to surf and climb!
the mugu surf video is great!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
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looking at Mugu rock
check out the slab stuff!
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Thank you Pyro!!!
I love that Rock and the entire area (scree cliffs included).
Used to ride my bike along the PCH, boulder on Mugu Rock, do some bad yoga on that seacliff about 1/2 a mile south of it, and then ride home. Such a great way to start a weekend.
Never once saw any technical climbers on that rock, only the occasional boulderer.
I'm jonesing for my former home in Santa Monica big time right now and this thread is filling my heart with pure joy. Thanks again for the photos and thread.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Brings back memories, Pyro! I was just remembering this place as somewhere I'd like to re-visit.
Ray Palmer, others and I climbed several short one pitch variations on those slabs in the mid-late '60s. Even back then there were a few bolts on one of the larger dihedral routes.
We had most of those cracks and faces on the boulder wired. No chalk or pads, but sometimes used a toprope. Kengl's topo looks about right to me. I don't recall the right face being a .12, but I'll bet some holds have busted off since the last millennium.
It seems we met some prominent climbers there, while bouldering with the Gleasons, Haney, and Burt Turney?
In the surf, up the coast a little are some jet black rocks embedded with strikingly large contrasting white fossilized clam shells. And there are some rare, prehistoric looking plant species on top of those slabs as I recall. Fun place...I'll go back there next time I visit.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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There was also some 5.10 highballs on the slabs just up off the water. Long ones, like 30 feet. And some other stuff further down where they once had a tourist walk with a big cement bridge and so forth. Must have been 75 years ago not because all that's left are some rusted out fittings and the old cement.
JL
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2013 - 12:21am PT
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this boulder is located closer to the slab stuff. many problems exist.
thanks L!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
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looking at the boulder/slab I think Largo is speaking of.
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JayMark
Social climber
Oxnard, CA
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Funny, never thought I'd see pictures of Mugu Rock here. I first went there in '65 when I got stationed at Mugu. I was new to climbing and didn't know much. Later I took a couple classes at GPIW. I heard JL was there one day and I was bummed I missed it. Back then the graffiti didn't seem to mess up the rock texture. It was only when they started painting over the graffiti that it became slick and unnatural. We called the crack thru the T in "STEVE" Steve's T. I don't know what the real climbers called it. More than one person has fallen off the top of that thing and crushed their ankles. A few years ago a car hit it head on at 80mph or so knocking off some rock and the traverse on the left side went to 11c or something like that.
John Moore
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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Spent a lot of time there,79,80,81.TFPU.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2013 - 11:18am PT
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I love that picture of Mugu painted from the 80's.
thanks for posting Jaymark!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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technical/rock climbing slab stuff.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Yeah, Pyro, that's the slab. If you stay in the middle - as I remember - it was a good highball. Ping and you fly into the sea.
JL
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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wasn't there a hand drawn topo of the few routes on the big slabs at one point?
Never was much into it since by the time I had seen it I was in Nor Cal already. But seeing the pics make me want to go check it out again.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
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the start of the slab stuff.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Dec 14, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
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Climbed that slab a way back when. I think it was Puhvel & Tonesfrommars and I when those boys was still in school. We did some stress testing on an Evian bottle by tossing it repeatedly from the top of the route. Took several tosses to poke a hole in it.
Way manky bolts at the time.
Pt Magu is the first place to go climbing after a storm passes through and all the rocks are wet everywhere else.
Of course, now we have gym climbing so the area is kind of pointless. It is outdoors.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Dec 14, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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Great pix of the slabby stuff, Pyro.
Please keep posting up those blue-sky photos...they're helping me handle the NE winter storm that's whiting up the outside right now. ;-)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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:)
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Dec 17, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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ooohhh-aaaahhhhhhhh...heaven!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 17, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
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I, too, was stationed here! Got deployed to Iraq while a reservist in '04.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 01:12am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 11:47pm PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Crap, I used to live near there.... about 50 years ago.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Nice arch, Pyro. Never seen that one before.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2014 - 12:40am PT
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photo's by the MedusA!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2014 - 12:59am PT
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Some of my Favorite parts of Pt Mugu!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 13, 2014 - 10:46am PT
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Yo....how many other international destinations have painted over graffiti and deteriorating macadam at there base? Worth visiting for the easy approach alone!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2014 - 04:28pm PT
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here yo go Jim!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2014 - 08:03am PT
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mugu rock huge Hurricane marie swell august 27 2014
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go-B
climber
Cling to what is good!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2014 - 11:36am PT
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Thank's go-b for the picture..
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Awesome photo! I wish they would have just left the spray paint and not coated the cracks with that nasty slick crap...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2015 - 06:39am PT
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giant coreopsis
Edit:
Corrected the word coreopsis
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Thanks Pyro...I needed that! :-)
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Coreopsis gigantea
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
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Totally rad!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2015 - 08:30am PT
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Bitd I was there soloing all the cracks and the AD of the Hollywood YMCA came up to me and asked me to teach some classes. I made some money. $$
such a perfect place to meet people.
Scubbing I had some Hollywood site rep pay me to clean up the explosion from the movie Amistad.. took me 1hr for $500...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2015 - 11:01am PT
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bump for the Mugu!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 11:11am PT
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soo cool!
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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This is what it looked like when we pumped on it...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Whoever owns it should put it on EBay......it will pull more cash than a vintage Coonyard piton hammer....maybe.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2015 - 07:53am PT
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Thanks for the read Rincon.. such an awesome chunk of rock
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Sep 23, 2015 - 07:53am PT
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For U Pyro!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 15, 2015 - 08:33am PT
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Happy Birthday PYRO..
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 15, 2015 - 11:45am PT
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^^^
Nice shot.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Jan 26, 2016 - 08:49pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2016 - 07:56am PT
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Sam that is a perfect SUNSET shot!
Medusa rock'n the Drone shot..
PT MUGU is way better than PT DUME..
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jan 27, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
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Sam E, beautiful pic.
Medusa, those aerials are always a nice perspective.
I still wear this T-shirt a lot. Neck is a bit raggedy for going under button-up shirts at work though.
This last one shows the relationship nicely between Pt Mugu Rock and that other slab nearby.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2016 - 01:54pm PT
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Nicely done Nutagain!
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| Messages 1 - 83 of total 83 in this topic |
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