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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 4, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
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We have had an ecumenic time of it recently.
It's like the Cambrian Explosion and it sure is weird.
We have a lot of likes.
And they each generate some dislike, for the most part.
Christians
Atheists
Gnostics
Tantrics
Chemtrails
Thugs
Bit'ers
Cerealers
Pantheists
Pathetics
Agnostics
Climbings
Nihilists
Plainlifers
Universalists (you may not like it, but they are there)
It's weird, and I'm not sure if God understands how confused I am and why I act so excentric. I try to live a clean life. But the cammers ram their techno-rap down my throat, disparage the hex, slam the stopper, just to get at my wallet. The bishop says gimme for the poor. The pantheists want all my dough. The Mammut guy tells me one thing, the Blue Water guy insists it's three-score ten. And Mikey is over thirty. Who can I trust?
Help me out here, Taco!
Before I get really stretched from stressing over life.
Where's Guy Noir when you need the bum?
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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It's either six of one or one-half dozen of the other.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Whoa is me! I led a good, decent hexcentric life....but then along came a dark stranger with a furtive look and a trunkful of.......cams!!!
I promised my parents I wouldn't get into drugs, but you know the story; it started innocently enough with chalk, then tape and finally....cams!
I just did inventory in my garage, plenty of stoppers but only ONE Hex.
I am truly damned.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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Righteous, brothers!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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The hexcentric life? you must be nuts.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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All you guys with all that vintage gear in such nice condition either moved on pretty quickly or don't climb very much.. ;-)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
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Crackers!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Am I forgiven for having lived as a Lowe-life?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
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Depends.[Click to View YouTube Video] Have you accepted St. Steverino as your personal clean climbing guru?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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There is no god but Abalakov and Shataev is his prophet.
Death to infidels and hangdoggers!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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These don't have a scratch on 'em. Guess I don't climb enough...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Titons rool!
I never went aid climbing without a #1 Titon.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Are you guys into the paleolithic diet too?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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You know Mungo like a gud lunch!
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Wait a minute, what just happened???
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
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'Anutomy': The study of the placement of artificial chocks.
Titons were intro-ed just about the same time women's lib really took off. Weird. All this sexual innuendo in climbing. It's all just too weird. Nuts to hookers! Soup to nuts...got crackers? Pecks by the bushel? Ron? Give.
I don't believe you really have a set of zNuts! Dood! IZ NEVAH SEEN SUM! The above animal was ritually slaughtered by the application on his head of a #8 Hex. No, he didn't feel it.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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here's my set, they're all Chouniard, I don't use them much and took some time digging them out of the gear box...
from #1 to #11, with extras in #8, #4 and #1
I used to have another #11 around, but I think it might still be somewhere in 510OW, I was thinking of making a gearshift knob out of it... seemed appropriate...
I am over on the dark side, too, using cams now instead of hexes... but I kept these around to use on alpine routes... you know, one set of cams, one set of hexes... but I seem to always leave the hexes at home.
Eric's got a set of plastic Australian hexes which are really wild!
I think that maybe these should go to Ken and the YCA...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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It is great to see those, Ed. Thanks for the effort of excavatiing 'em.
I had the same set, but liked to take two each of the wireds, 1-5. Same with Stoppers, double 'em up. Easy to carry, be prepared.
I had a couple of wedge chocks, too, one slung on 1' nylon tube and one on rope. Both were old Moacs I found racked on a single biner at Lovers in the early days. We had no cams to leave so these were the "leavers" if need arose.
God knows why I sold the stuff so cheaply. And the Gollancz collection. Plant a boot on my butt.
Nice to hear from you on the origin of that problem, Warbler.
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Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
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My number 5 caught this fall
My second that day did not have the cleaning tool. It's still stuck in the crack (and he knows how to stuck placements without a tool). Looking for volunteers to brave the approach and help me go get it.
I LOVE hexes. So often passed over in this day and age, but I love them for their security and light weight and versatility. Now I just need to avoid falling.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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'nuff said.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Ed, is it what you have in mind.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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those are the article nutstory, I love those hexes! Eric actually uses his so they are a bit more worn looking... never really thought you would get them back out if you fell on them...
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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screw a bunch of buzzers or chimes ... might answer the damn door if i was summoned by the clank of seven thru eleven
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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i was once inside the hexentric,
climbing about,
some vaginas might be hexentrically shaped.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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hmm, when I get old maybe I can make a living selling hexes on ebay.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A historical tidbit...
Once the symmetrical shape for the Hexentric was abandoned due to demand for a second attitude, the resulting shape was named the Eccentric Hexentric by its inventor, Tom Frost.
I still carry #1-#3 of the eccentric shape on a wire and #4 and #5 of the newer end tapered shape.
Beautiful design and a joy to place because you have to take the time to really admire the crack that you are working with. Placing cams requires much less attention which was everything BITD.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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I miss the "wind chime" sound of big hexes clanging against each other in Eldo. Now, that claking sound of today's protection against each other isn't as musical or soothing.
By the way, that big titon shown above works good as a "deadman" in the snow, used one to help with belay anchor in a steep chute one time.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Never have seen a hex walk..
You on crack, so to speak?
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Grampa
climber
from SoCal
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I still carry a vintage extralong Lost Arrow notched nut tool. Nice and heavy to up-knock those hexes.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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Score +1 Throwpie.
Last Hit!!
Steverino, thanks for the nomenclature.
Ron, thanks for showing your nuts. A rack of nuts...more sexual innuendo/ambiguity. Nut crack is another.
I knew this would get you guys wound!
Any "deez nuts" out dere?
Show me yo' hahdware.
Show the oldies if ya dare.
Mo' be out dere somewhere.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Hexen und Geister
Am 30.04.2006 ist es wieder soweit. Ab 20:00 Uhr treiben wieder Geister, Hexen und Teufel ihr Unwesen am Concordia See in Schadeleben.
Ein Feuerspucker wird spektakulär das traditionelle Hexenfeuer entzünden. Bei seiner Show begleiten ihn zwei maskierte Tänzerinnen, die auf ihre Weise versuchen, den Teufel gnädig zu stimmen.
“To the German Commander, NUTS!”
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Never too late......nawmeen?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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Jawohl!
And I never did appreciate the term "nut tool," Grampa.
It isn't as classy as the term de-nutter, another one which chills my spine.
But what else can you call one of these gadgets from the lore of yore.
I am totally proud to say I got the FA of one of the Valley climbs with the shortest approach from a road, I, 5.8, Nutty Buddy. A short hairless doggie of a climb at the toe of Lower Brother. It began as an excursion with Cowboy Larry and a n00b named Mark Hanel. We were poking around seeking the start of Absolutely Free. I saw this short easy and did one pitch. Came back with Dave Bircheff & finished it some time after Andy Cox's passing. It's named "Nutty Buddy" because of Andy's love of that ice cream treat, a frozen waffle cone with a choc top. And it was a big deal to do an FA with no iron about then, '72. I remember Dave got bipped on the head by a pebble I knocked loose with the belay rope. He was peeved, but it didn't bleed, so harden the f... never mind.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Once Hexentric
Always
Hexcentric
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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Clank, clank!
What's that classy auto behind you? Studebaker?
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Yeah,
Not ours though.
Second thought though that may have been John Falcon (Foul Coon)'s mothers car.
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Grampa
climber
from SoCal
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Tahquitz a few weeks ago....
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Hey mouse, I don't know about any of this stuff, but I do like to participate. Was just looking at a '62 Studebaker the other day.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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plymouth valiant can't touch the grillage on the sister ship, '62 dodge dart:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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What, no Edsel?
I miss the days of Chrome...by Crom!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2012 - 12:16am PT
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Steverino:
Do you want to live forever?
Because you're not gonna.
In fact, we're all gonna die and the hexcentric and other lives will no longer be "all that."
But you will have gone out with a clean conscience.
Sentimental, hexcentric old ffool...
I wish I'd have marketed these babies (having invented them and obtained rights and patents and all the legal BS, of course).
No regrets, I'm just drinking out loud...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A Troll once got a Quickie in the Teetons...or so I heard!
Mighta been at the Mangy Moose...
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Everything I liked was either 6-sided or required a hammer.
Here we are playing with these funny new things called "hexentrics" when they first came out. Just learning to climb, doing girdle traverses of long 1/2-mile cliff face that we're very high. Don't remember the year, early 1970s?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2014 - 06:15am PT
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BBST.
"Bumpin' fo' a beddah ST."
I cannot think of a beddah dude to bring it back for us than Doug Robinson.
"Commited to an adventure."
I was unaware of our total dependence on nuts until the first afternoon of our climb, when Dennis yelled up to me: "We've looked in all the bags and can't seem to find any pitons. They must have been left behind."
Dennis was not a convincing fibber...he was far too experienced and careful to have left pitons behind--unless he did it purposely. He and our other companion, Doug Robinson, had sorted the climbing equipment together.
I realized what Dennis meant: This time we were not carrying our courage in our rucksacks. We were committed to an adventure.--Galen Rowell, in his National Geographic article I wonder, does Doug still have that pair of EBs?
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Oct 17, 2014 - 09:34am PT
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A multi-functional hex!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 31, 2018 - 12:52pm PT
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Old gear bump.
Photo is by Imstein in Idaho's Sawtooth Mtns.
Title is:
It's a jumar!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2019 - 01:46pm PT
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Sep 4, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
It's either six of one or one-half dozen of the other.
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Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
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If it ain't one thing, it's a half-a-dozen others.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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two words:
Alpine Hex.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 22, 2019 - 03:34pm PT
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In my rush to comply with the request to remove pictures I mistakenly deleted a picture of these in use
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