Discussion Topic |
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 26, 2012 - 10:29am PT
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From Ted at Skyline Adventure School
"Our thoughts and prayers are with the family and friends of Ben Horne and Gil Weis, two missing climbers who were attempting the South Face of Palcaraju and are overdue by 5 days. Our team of rescuers is up on the glacier this morning doing a preliminary search. At 7am this morning they found the climbers tent and are now searching the surrounding area."
Please send out your good thoughts and prayers to Gill, Ben and families and friends. I will up date when I get more news. Hoping against hope, this is sad news.
TY
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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Damn. Hoping this turns out ok.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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Rough news. I hope that they are still alive.
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Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:36am PT
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Not good news, hoping for the best outcome though. Ted is the man down there when it comes to organizing rescues, they have that going for them.
Ryan
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:37am PT
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Sending out all the best energy I can muster.
Hoping for a positive outcome.
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Gary
climber
"My god - it's full of stars!"
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:39am PT
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Damn. Wishing them Joe Simpson luck.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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hey there say,.... i will surely be praying...
thanks for passing the word, for them, so we can...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 26, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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Ben is a great strong guy. Hope they are hiking out from the other side and will be safe shortly.
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skotturi
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 26, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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im waiting to hear, "they were spotted running hill repeats on the far side of the mountain".
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Chugach Man
climber
Anchorage / San Diego
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Jul 26, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
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All the best to Gil and Ben, and thank you Ted for going out looking for them.
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Bowie
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 26, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
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This can't be happening. Sending all of my thoughts, hope, and prayers your way fellas!!
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LMo
climber
San Diego
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Jul 26, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
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Thank you for posting up. All my best thoughts for Ben and Gil.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jul 26, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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Thank you to those giving so much energy whether that's searching or sending positive thoughts.
Ben, you still didn't respond to my comment...when are we moving in? We have lots of evening sets waiting and alpine missions!
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brat
climber
El Portal
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Jul 26, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
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"I sit here in a coffee shop in Huaraz, Peru, planning another foray into the Cordillera Blanca, where the sense that one’s life is in the hands of the mountains can be as blinding as the endless white glaciers, and a thirst for glory can darken our better judgment more than the blackness of night."
From Gil's most recent post on pullharder, regarding the death of Michael Ybarra.
My thoughts are with you, guys.
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noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
eldorado springs co
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Jul 26, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
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Ugh, not 2 more. Hoping for your safe return, Ben and Gil.
-Michelle
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jul 26, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
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Fight hard to get home guys. We all want you back!
 Luke
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
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As of right now, there isn't anything new to report. We are just hanging in there. It has been cold and a bit windy. The south faces were loose and slightly loaded from small but recent snow fall. keeping a light in the widow guys. TY
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JSpencerV
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 26, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
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Sitting in La Casa De Zarela right now in Huaraz Peru. Just heard the news from Tony. I talked with Gil the night before he left. We were wondering why they hadnt gotten back to town. Such terrible news. My hopes are with them.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
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Jul 26, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
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Pullin' and prayin' for them. Stay strong.
Eric
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 26, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
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Good vibes for these guys. Tony, good on you guys helpin' out
too--be careful!!!
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tamberly
Trad climber
san diego
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Jul 26, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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Ben and Gil....I'm praying you guys are ok..and just WAY off route..please come home to your family and friends!
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Ben-Ho
Big Wall climber
Edwards, CO
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Jul 26, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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Gil on Lost Arrow.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 26, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
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wow, sorry for the news.
best to them and everyone involved.
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
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Keeping my thoughts positive for these guys. Come on, dudes, stay strong, we're all rooting for you.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
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Steps were seen leading to the summit and down a ridge. Then nothing more. Perhaps tomorrow will bring answers. TY
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jul 26, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
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Hope they are well.
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Buster Jesik
Gym climber
Estes Park, CO
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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Alowe
Trad climber
Wy
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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I sure hope we are worked up over nothing. Stay and strong and get yourselves out I this one Gil and Ben!
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Ryan Day Thompson
Trad climber
Denver
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:50am PT
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Though I only know Gil, thoughts and prayers to them both :-(
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Colin Simon
Social climber
Boulder
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:51am PT
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Gil Weiss raging up the last pitch of Brain Freeze in Rocky Mountain Nat'l Park.
Great weather, great conditions, great climbing, great partner.
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Anastasia
climber
InLOVEwithAris.
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:03am PT
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Hoping and praying for the best.
AFS
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:29am PT
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Sun Ribbon next day after Dark Star. I know Ben is an animal that has enough in the tank to get himself out of anything. Hoping for the best. This one was one of the most life altering trips for me.
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Gil's sister
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:51am PT
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We are trying to get the embassy to get a rescue mission, they are unable to do so for the second day. we need a light aircraft for the searching around the peak to help our own rescue team to be as our eyes from above. Please Help
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:44am PT
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Hoping to hear good news for the tribe. Come on boys hang tough!
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rsgutier
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:40am PT
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Come home boys!!!
Godspeed! Good luck and have strength!
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Jim Hefner
climber
La Verne, CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:46am PT
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Hoping and praying there is no heartbreak at the end of this.
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Gil's sister
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:50am PT
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Securing Air Support:
In event that we need the plane for longer than today, and the funds we have are spent, I have setup a PayPal account so that we may have friends and family gather financial support---should we need it.
The PayPal user ID email address is
quacamole1@gmail.com
Galit Weiss
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travelin_light
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 27, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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Any climbers in the Cordillera Blanca, we need your help in the Cojup Valley. Your assistance would be very useful in getting supplies up to a search team on the SW ridge of Palcaraju Oeste. Please ping me at charles.ince@gmail.com if you have ways to help with this effort.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Black Rock City
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Jul 27, 2012 - 11:16am PT
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Love and light and prayers for all concerned.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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Praying for their safety. Hoping they're dug into a snow cave and waiting for rescue team.
[Edit: had asked about contacts at US embassy to get Peruvian military to assist.]
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travelin_light
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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At this point we have not seen ANY meaningful collaboration beyond the civillian efforts. Unfortunately the US Embassy or Peruvian authorities/government are "waiting for more information" before they dedicate any real resources to this.
If anyone has a way to help us get better contacts into the Embassy they would be greatly appreciated. Contact me at charles.ince@gmail.com
At this point we are attempting to privately fund the aerial search on our own and use our own means to resupply the SAR effort that is being spearheaded by Ted's team.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
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I agree that getting a civilian plane up in the air as fast as possible is the right thing to do.
See your re-edit.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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Ben and the Zoroaster Temple
Ben on Denali
Sending you energy and support to get you on the path home!
Luke
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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It may be worth contacting Dianne Feinstein's office in SF. Senator Feinstein's husband attempted Everest once. She may be sympathetic to this cause. She will have considerable influence on the embassy in Peru.
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Fig's Lady
Social climber
Bishop, CA and Tucson Arizona
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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I sent an e-mail to Senator Feinstein and also left a message with her office in Los Angeles Phone: (310) 914-7300 Perhaps other calls to this office will bring this situation to the forefront of her agenda. My sincere thoughts and best wishes to to all who are affected by this.
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Aerili
climber
Reno, NV
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
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This is just terrible news in light of the fact that I am still recovering from my friend Mike Ybarra's death....even though I didn't know these men it feels more real to me now.
I, too, read the pullharder entry about Mike and it feels so disorienting after seeing this news.
Hoping for a happier outcome this time.
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Fig's Lady
Social climber
Bishop, CA and Tucson Arizona
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
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Sorry that I don't know who is who (other than user names) so I suggested she look at the forum post and contact Chris McNamara. Maybe someone can send her a more direct contact.
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Kevo
Mountain climber
Denver, CO
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
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I utilized an ex-pat(Tim)years ago in Huaraz to coordinate logistical efforts for a trek around the Codillera Huayhuash. He may be able to help in your SAR efforts and be able to expedite services. He operates a local coffee shop here's his email: tibben@ocf.berkeley.edu
http://huaylas.com/californiacafe/#
I hope for a safe return of Gil and Ben.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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Hoping for a good outcome, looks like a couple of very strong dudes!!!!
Best wishes to all!
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climbhigh befree
Mountain climber
boulder, colorado
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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..I met Gil and Ben in the Ishinca Valley on July 7th...They had just climbed Ishinca & Ranrapalca...were in very good spirits... they were headed to Huantsan and myself to the Santa Cruz Valley...very enthusiastic about being in the Blanca for the third straight season, Gil was very excited about getting back to Boulder with what he described as an "outstanding group of friends and a business waiting for him" ... I'm sorry to say that I am in lima now waiting to get back to the US and unavailable to assist with the search...I'm hoping for the best for these two... This really hits home- especially having just met them ... If anyone can help on the ground - certainly it's Ted... Hopes and prayers to Gil, Ben, family and friends...
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
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Just so there's no confusion, they apparently decided NOT to go to Huantsan, and instead to attempt a line on Palcaraju Oeste.
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jackholbrookiv
Trad climber
evergreen, co
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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I contacted Sara Peru (South American Rescue Association) www.saraperu.com. Karine said that she has contacts in the area that may be able to provide air support.
I was given these two cell phone numbers from the German consulate.
+51-974-796-354
+51-949-434-952
I only tried the first one and got through to Karine who speaks english.
Has anyone else had any luck with an airplane today?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
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A friend found people in Peru with a plane and send the info to lioradanan@gmail.com
If there is anyone else here who needs their contact info here is the message:
Reply from Alberto:
Here we have what you need.
The company it’s called UNISTAR,
website http://www.unistar.peAsk directly with Mr. Silverio polo, Gerente de Operaciones
His private mobile phone is 990700094.Central Lima: 719-5777
Tell him that you are calling by reference of Mr. Haren Montes (from Caraz) who is a friend of Alberto Cafferata and is who gave me this reference.
javascript:doSave();
Although I hope there is a plane already involved. Every minute counts in these types of situations.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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From Huaraz, it has been cloudy all day today. bit windy as well. A fixed wing search would be problematic without a break in the clouds. Having said that I hope they are flying. I am still hoping for the best.
TY
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JSpencerV
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
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Adam (Travelin-Light) and I (Jared Vagy) will head to the valley for 2 days tomorrow morning as an independent climbing team to aid in the search. Hoping for the best.
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Gil's sister
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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IMPORTANT UPDATE for Securing Air Support
Please use This PayPal account for securing funds for Air Support:
quacamole1@gmail.com
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noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
eldorado springs co
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Jul 27, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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Many thanks to Jared and all of those in Peru and beyond who are helping out with the SAR effort.
Michelle
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Gil's sister
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
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IMPORTANT UPDATE for Securing Air Support
Please use This PayPal account for securing funds for Air Support:
quacamole1@gmail.com
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Bowie
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
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Response I got from the AAC, I hope they are right:
We contacted Global Rescue, the organization that provides rescue to all AAC members, yesterday and they've been providing us status updates. Last I heard, they've got a fixed wing aircraft doing fly-overs of the area (a few hours ago).
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
oakland, california
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Jul 27, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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Good Luck, Adam and Jared! Stay safe!
Scott, Andrew & Shane
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cory_lamz
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jul 27, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
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Hi all,
My name is Cory Lamz. I'm a reporter for the Daily Camera in Boulder, Colorado. I'm doing a follow up story to the one that was written by the Associated Press earlier today about Gil and Ben going missing. If you have climbed with Gil or Ben or know them personally in any capacity, I'd love to talk to you. You can reach me at 303-473-1361 or lamzc@dailycamera.com.
Thank you.
Cory Lamz
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 27, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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hey there say, tyeary, and gil's sister and all...
am still praying for them, and all concerned...
sure hope the avalanche note, will not be involved with them being missing, :(
god bless, as this hard time of waiting...
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snowey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
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Cory and San Diego 10.
I have already contacted you directly via email to direct press energy. Please get in touch with me or with Galit (Gil's sister). Our goals are:
1) Put pressure to get an airplane or helicopter up in the air
2) Get donations for our privately funded search operation already underway
3) Get people to help us look through the large volumes of satellite imagery we are collecting.
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nature
climber
SoSlo, CO
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Jul 27, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
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I can lend an eye for #3
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
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Thanks Nature.
We're 85% done tiling and uploading the newest satellite image. When it's done (hopefully very soon, matter of minutes) i'll post links to a google earth file, a google maps link, and our crowdsourcing interface where people can tag things they they find.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 27, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
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I will gladly spend hours going over any satellite imagery you have. You can contact me via this forum just send an attachment. I will give updates on progress positive or negative
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G Fleishman
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
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I'll contribute to image analysis as well.
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Sakshama
Trad climber
NY, MAcedonia
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Jul 27, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
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I'm in Huaraz and spoke to Alfredo Quintana- a well respected member of the Casa De Guia. He says he is coordinating a rescue operation with the local guides today. He has 4 guides and he tries to find two more to go tomorrow. He said the terrain is very difficult, climbers attempted a new line on the mountain that is avalanche prone and the glacier under it is not easy to cross. They have been out so far for 16 days so it doesn't look too good.
Offered help but it seems he needs a tight team of locals.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 27, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
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long story short.... I'm banned from paypal... i have money to send your way if anyone knows how I can... I'm good for it. call me 76o-84o-o765
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Dallas
climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
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I will also help with satellite image analysis. Please send me the images as well. I owe Ben a lot!
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
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----- see next post
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noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
eldorado springs co
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Jul 27, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
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@GDavis: You can email Gil's sister, Galit, through Supertopo for an address.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 27, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
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Wow this is a wicked mountain. The most obvious descent line is really ugly. Vastly crevassed and steep. Am really working on these sat images ( took a bit to get oriented and identify some good landmarks for reference) but the best resolution still seems a bit weak to pick out what is needed. :(
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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It is a pretty gnarly place. I too wish the resolution were better, but this is the best & only current image we've got. The ones from today were too cloudy.
Does this look like tracks on the descent ridge?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
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Possibly some snowfall between photos. Also possible that that softening of the 26th photo is due to lighting difficult to say, perhaps angle and efforts of digital rendering
possible old debris pile in bottom slightly left of center seems to give some scale. Some fairly good sized crevasses unfortunatley.
Dosn't appear to be high enough resolution to pick out footprints.
Would be an unpleasant section to descend
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cfirestone
climber
Chevy Chase, MD
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
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cfirestone
climber
Chevy Chase, MD
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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More to the photo I just posted. Asa, who is only on a cellphone right now, thought they climbed to the top and tried to descend on the other side of the mountain, not where his line is drawn. (He had been with Gil earlier in the month, but bad weather prevented them from going up, and he had to leave for a prior commitment in the States -- and Ben then came and climbed with Gil.)
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G Fleishman
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
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AB3PO
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
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There is something about the object in the highlighted box that looks like it shouldn't be there. For instance, what is the white part on the right side when nothing else is white. Also, it is a slightly different color than everything else in the frame. Just seems out of place.
for reference, i have attached a more zoomed out image slice. This is just to the right of the ridge. Find the curved part on the left, and look to the right. The zoomed in image is just a closer version of the red square in the zoomed out image.
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aveman
Mountain climber
La Jolla
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
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Looks like people to me, spaced as they might be walking up a snow slope. Three of them.
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Andre
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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Does anyone know where the tent was found?
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snowey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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Nice freaking work y'all! That definitely looks like the three rescuers and we are going to use that image as an example of what people might look like in the imagery.
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
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aveman nice work, those must be the 3 guides sometime yesterday
they're pretty low down, probably below basecamp. This is a good example of what a person would look like against the snow in this imagery.
Here are the coordinates of where those 2 "people" that G. Flleischman found... they're WAY west of the descent ridge, you couldn't end up there unless you traversed the main ridge really far then came down.. does that make sense to do that?
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aveman
Mountain climber
La Jolla
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
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same size dots, same 10m spacing.
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jackholbrookiv
Trad climber
evergreen, co
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
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There is something red in this picture
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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Two dots found by aveman.
This is also pretty far down southwest of the face, not sure how many rescuers were on the way up or down yesterday.
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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hey jackholbrookiv what's the coords of the red thing?
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jackholbrookiv
Trad climber
evergreen, co
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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having some issues with coordinates. Mine seem different from the others.
Your photo of the two shadows/peple is in between the two lakes. The red something is south of that.
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snowey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
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Friends,
Share capability is now enabled. share your findings on FB, Twitter, or here by grabbing the share link. Click on the ‘share’ link at the top left corner of the interface.
When posting images in this thread, it would be helpful to snag the link in addition to the screenshot.
You are freaking owning this. So many eyes looking for clues and stuff is coming up!
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
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I have to say, it is very cool what you guys are doing! Hopefully it will lead to clues and help finding these guys.
I am heading to Peru tonight and will be in Huaraz on Sunday. Drop me a note if you need any help while I am there
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
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Adam Lawrance, Jared Vagy and I are headed up valley in the morning. Casa de Giua is indeed putting together a team to go up as well. We talked to their logistical coordinator this evening to confer and trade info. Ted's team got to high camp today. No sat phone contact yet with them. Thanks for all the sat image work. It may prove invaluable. Misha, I'm at Zarela's. Leave your contact info with her if I'm not back yet. Good news is we are most likely getting an fixed wing recon flight tomorrow. These guys are tough, Lets not let them down Keep your hopes up and send good thoughts to all involved; Gil,Ben family, Friends and those on the hill. Thanks.
TY
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Andre
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
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Possible camp spot. With some sharpening it looks like a yellow tent and 3 dark objects around it (packs?). There was nothing in this spot on July 2nd.This spot is located directly underneath the attempted route and matches with Asa's descriptions.
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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Andre good catch dude, here's a couple of screenshots both from google earth showing both:
the coordinates are -9.375059 -77.381387
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jonathanb
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
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I'm an absolute amateur at scouring satellite photos ... would resolution be high enough to spot the climbers' paths? They're seems to be a trail of some sort in this photo (I moved the markers slightly to the left for clarity).
http://tomnod.com/gi/peru/?vid=2123
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 27, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
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Thanks to you guys doing the work on the photos!!!
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Chugach Man
climber
Anchorage / Los Angeles
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Jul 27, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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With respect to the footprints that they think were theirs beginning the decent, do we think there's any possibility they could have attempted to backtrack and go down the north side, or a different decent route if the objective hazards down the SW ridge were too gnarly?
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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Kristen, Look at the scale bar on the screen and compare that to the picture.....unless they are giants at 200m tall, I don't think that's what you think it is. :)
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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I found a spot on the descent ridge where it looks like there are no tracks July 2, but tracks July 26.
This is at 5600m on the descent ridge.
Does it look this way to anybody else? Maybe it's the sun angle but it looks like there's nothing there July 2.
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Chugach Man
climber
Anchorage / Los Angeles
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Jul 27, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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Been looking at that as well Nate - it kind of looks more like tumbling debris/snowballs, but that stuff is pretty easy to mix up with footprints. Definitely worth checking out in my opinion if we can get a team up there.
Been trying to visualize where they would attempt to continue down from there as well...
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Splitterday
climber
originally Morganton, NC
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Jul 27, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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Come on homeys! I know you're digging deep, just keep hanging on, the SAR team is there! I saw you two in my dream two nights ago -- remember, start strong finish strong!
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Chugach Man
climber
Anchorage / Los Angeles
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Jul 27, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
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Beth S
Gym climber
Charlottesville, VA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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I have never looked at satellite photos before, but I'm giving it a go. Do these dots look like people? There's no tracks coming and going from them so I'm not sure...
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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Beth S: Yes that's consistent with what a person would look like.
Chugach Man: I thought so too but what about the ridge in the foreground visible in the photograph?
edit: on second thought, you're probably right. Maybe the ridge is just not represented very well in google earth's elevation model
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Ryan Day Thompson
Trad climber
Denver
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Jul 27, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
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I actually see what looks like a pretty convincing looking foot path below what Valeraxy points out. Anyone else see that?
Edit: That actually looks a bit like a WTF trail too. "Can we get down over here? Nope..."
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Ryan Day Thompson
Trad climber
Denver
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Jul 27, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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Seems pretty discontinuous to me and looks like there are break points and diversions for routefinding maybe?
Seems a whole lot like a consistent footpath to me.
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Ryan Day Thompson
Trad climber
Denver
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Jul 27, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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Here's that whole thing stitched together.
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jackholbrookiv
Trad climber
evergreen, co
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Jul 27, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
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This is right above the tag that the previous person spotted of the two people "shoulder to shoulder". These definitely look like footprints
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AB3PO
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
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just found this...lots of footprints...kinda looking around for a place to go up top. the most interesting part is in the orange box.
zoomed way into my screen on my mac and inside the orange box, there is something (?) that looks like arms on top of the snow trying to climb up on the rock. anybody else see similar?
edit...
here's the zoomed out view
http://tomnod.com/gi/peru/?lat=-9.385235576074347&lng=-77.3593282699585&zoom=16
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Andre
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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See below for potential descent tracks. After the last arrow it is hard to pick up any more tracks.
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wcm
Trad climber
cardiff, ca
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:55am PT
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 28, 2012 - 01:04am PT
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Amazing!!
TACO at work!
I love you all!
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tslaks82
Boulder climber
Fort Collins
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:23am PT
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does this look like a foot path to anyone?
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AB3PO
climber
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:37am PT
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hey tslaks82
if you follow that path south/southwest, you will find what was earlier identified as possibly 3 search and rescue crew (3 shadows even spaced on along the path)...
the lake in the left of your image is just west of Palcococha Lake in this google map view...for reference, Palcacocha lake is just south of the moutain.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jul 28, 2012 - 03:03am PT
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Nice to hold out hope, but logic usually has the last word. The two mountaineers had planned an excursion of between seven and 10 days. Their families contacted help after 13 days passed with no word from them. The three-person search team found the climbers' bright yellow tent at 16,700 feet on Thursday and tracks coming off the summit as well as evidence of a nearby avalanche. ... the Cordillera Blanca ... (is) among the world's most dangerous (ranges) due to the instability of snow and ice caused by wide temperature fluctuations.
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G Fleishman
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 03:10am PT
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That's not particularly helpful at the moment. Keep those comments to yourself please.
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Seamae
Social climber
San Diego
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Jul 28, 2012 - 03:34am PT
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He obviously doesn't know these guys.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jul 28, 2012 - 03:48am PT
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This community is amazing...the hope is alive! Ryan Day Thompson's stitch looks pretty convincing.
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G Fleishman
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 04:10am PT
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The potential camp site identified by Aveman is directly beneath the potential footpath/tracks identified by Andre. Here is a view looking down from the peak/ridge along the potential tracks toward the potential camp.
The coordinates indicated were the result of holding the cursor very near the potential camp site. This image was taken from the Google Earth rendering and coordinate of the data.
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RLGordon
Boulder climber
Los Angeles
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Jul 28, 2012 - 05:00am PT
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The stitch of a footpath looks pretty convincing to me too... There also seems to be some other possible paths around it, and what looks to my completely untrained eye to be an avalanche. Maybe I'm just seeing things though...
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climbers' mom
Social climber
Wilderness, VA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 08:56am PT
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RL--I am a novice at this but am trying my best--What I find intriguing in your photo is what appears to be a trail of prints going directly across to the right from the crevass, to what appears to be rocks/possibly cave? The path appears well used, with multiple tracks? Could they be hold-up there?
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climbers' mom
Social climber
Wilderness, VA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:10am PT
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Just to clarify--so sorry if my nickname is misleading. I am the mother of two other climbers, not related to Ben and Gil. Son is friend of Ben's.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:31am PT
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a heart-warming effort, folks.
this is an inspiring display of human spirit, and compassion.
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highcamp
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:44am PT
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My Google Earth images are super low rez, where are people getting high rez historicals?
Also, how are folks achieving perspective of where a given map/image is in relation to the mtn/route/bc?
Thx
[EDIT: figured out solution to question 1, still wondering on #2.]
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noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
eldorado springs co
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Jul 28, 2012 - 10:46am PT
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Here's an update on the Tomnod crowdsourced image map from last night. Keep up the great work everyone.
-Michelle
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 28, 2012 - 11:02am PT
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Wishing for a good outcome....
PullHarder
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Denali
Trad climber
Pleasant Hill
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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Hi,
I am reluctant to post this because I don't want to throw anyone off but what does this look like to you all. Right above the circle marker. I apologize in advance if this is not helpful.
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Thanks for the effort everybody, last night we sent in before/after shots and coordinates of the most compelling stuff found by you guys, and I hope that and the imagery itself was of use to the ground/air teams.
Last I heard a ground team left to explore the ridge at 3am, and a plane into the air around 9am (i think central time).
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HardyMatt
Trad climber
Boulder
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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Can someone please view these Lat and Longs for me? 9'22.30'2 South 77.22.53.57 West Elevation 5391 Meters? I layered the July 2nd photo and the new Sat photo and the object is not in the old photo. It could be the rescue party, but it doesn't appear to be crevasse. It's pretty close to being underneath the route or close to the descent.
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noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
eldorado springs co
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
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Nate, do you need people to keep labeling or do you have enough data? thanks
-Michelle
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G Fleishman
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
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Hey HardyMatt,
First of all there seems to be some discrepancy between coordinates in the google maps and google earth rendering of the images (am I the only one experiencing this?)
Anyway, when I locate those coordinates in the google earth rendering of the data, I am DIRECTLY over the potential campsite that has been previously identified by several other users (initially I believe by poster: aveman).
Other observations about this site:
1) It is NOT present in the July 2nd images but IS present in the July 26th images.
2) There appears to be little change to the crevasse located slightly south-east of the potential campsite between the two (historical and recent) images.
3) There is some, albeit rough, correspondance between the google earth rendering of the local topography surrounding this site and the image of the climber's campsite released by Peruvian authorities.
4) It is located at the southern end of the west peak at the base of a steep section that one might consider the summit push. This is completely consistent with the climbers' planned route.
5) Moving very slightly north west of this potential camp, there are pretty convincing tracks identified previously by Andre that seem to come up to (or down from) the ridge at the (considering the whole mountain) the south-west summit. (See my previous post for photo.)
6) These tracks are (according to google maps) approximately at the elevation 5,800 M (= 19,028.87 Ft.), which is the elevation previously discussed by SAR where they had identified tracks.
If this IS where the climbers were camped though, then SAR has already been through there. I'm sure the tomnod aggregation provided other locations where SAR has not yet been as high priority flyover and ground search sites.
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climbers' mom
Social climber
Wilderness, VA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
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Danali--I tagged that, too. Looked like possibly a person or gear on a ledge, with possible avalanche debris above.
Am still searching photos. Nate, is that helpful at this point? Am glad to do it if it is.
Thanks!
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wcm
Trad climber
cardiff, ca
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Jul 28, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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Ben & Gil's bodies have been found.
RIP you two, you are missed greatly.
Amazing effort from the community
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jul 28, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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Simply terrible. I'm so sorry to friends and family.
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Gary
climber
"My god - it's full of stars!"
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Jul 28, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
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RIP. Another pair lost. That sucks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 28, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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Condolences
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jul 28, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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Ugghh!.....condolences to all!
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 28, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
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Very, very sad, and a great loss for so many.
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Very, very sorry to hear this.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
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My condolences to their family and friends.
A sad day. . .
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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such a sad outcome
words are meaningless, but my sympathy to friends and family
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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Well, we tried everything we could think of to help out. Those guys were so damn strong, I can't believe it. F*#kign twice as strong and fast as the rest of us.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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They're the first friends and climbing partners I've ever lost... It's a sad day to lose anyone so full of life, motivated, positive, and willing to share their energy with others. I'm blown away by the climbing community's response to the search effort. There were easily over 1000 people that helped. While I'm sad to have lost such amazing people from my life, I'm glad that I'm part of such a spectacular community.
Thanks to everyone who helped with the physical search, the online search at Tomnod, supplying information and contacts, and so much more.
If you still want to help, you can donate to help pay for the search and recovery effort:
http://www.tomnod.com/gi/peru/
Whatever is not used will be refunded.
Josh
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Jul 28, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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Condolences to all who knew them. Sorry for your loss.
The short time you were here you guys tore it up.
RIP Gil Weiss and Ben Horne you earned it.
Respectfully
Wes
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noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
eldorado springs co
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Jul 28, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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+1 on Josh's sentiments
It was amazing to see so many friends, family, and members of the climbing community mobilize so quickly on a global scale. I only wish the outcome was more favorable. RIP Ben and Gil. You have inspired and will continue to inspire me to push my limits.
-Michelle
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jul 28, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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Well said Norwegian and Michelle.
This has been the most beautiful display of supertopo I can think of.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 28, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
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I had just recently met Ben, there seriously couldn't be a nicer person, I know everyone says that all the time but its true. It was at his slideshow recently and talked to him a bit and was pretty wonked out on painkillers recovering from an injury and he sat there and let me talk at him incoherently for like 15 minutes... my mom won't even do that...
Never met Gil but all those guys, Josh, Shay, Scott... what makes people like Gil and Ben, to me, has almost nothing to do with how talented they are but how big their hearts are. Ben loved climbing, climbers, and above all a positive attitude. People don't get much better.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jul 28, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
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Condolences to family and friends.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jul 28, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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I'm sorry to friends and family.
Remember: They died living out their dreams. Keep in your heart and celebrate the greatness of their spirit.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 28, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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My sympathy to family and friends.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
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Jul 28, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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So sorry. My condolences.
Eric
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jul 28, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
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so very, very sorry to see this outcome.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 28, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
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Oh man.. I hate this.
So sorry but glad they have been found, that's good.
Thank-you for finding a way to let so many pitch in, in whatever small ways we could.
Sincerest of condolences.
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Conrad
climber
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Jul 28, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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With condolences and empathy to the family and friends.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jul 28, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
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Sorry for your loss.
My sincere condolences,
Here is to two lives well lived!!!!
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Jul 28, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
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To echo the thoughts of many others here, an amazing effort by family, friends and fellow climbers to locate these guys.
Although the outcome wasn't as we'd hope, a shining moment for ST.
Condolences to all.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
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Sincere condolences to friends and family.
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Jim Hefner
climber
La Verne, CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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To the friends and family left behind, may you find a way.
Peace & Love
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jul 28, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Very sorry to hear that it turned out this way. Condolences to families and friends
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Chugach Man
climber
Anchorage / Los Angeles
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Jul 28, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
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"My candle burns at both ends, it will not last the night, but oh my friends, and oh my foes, it gives a lovely light."
FILES... You're two very inspirational guys, and we'll miss you both dearly. Thank you for the energy, drive and love you brought out in all of us. Do do doooo doo...
-Robbbbb
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Sam R
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
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My deepest condolences to family and friends. Thanks Gil and Ben for inspiring all of us to pullharder...
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Jul 28, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
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I was hoping against hope that it wouldn't come to this.
Condolences to the friends and families.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
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Very sad news. Rest in peace Bro's.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Jul 28, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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my sincere condolences to the family, and friends.
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Jul 28, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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My heart goes out to all of thier family and friends. To see Supertopo pull as one was good and so wish the outcome had been one of joy.
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 28, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
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It was great to of had the pleasure to know you Gil. RIP brother.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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I am so, so sorry for this loss. We always say Rest in Peace, but this does not seem quite right here, with these two. Climb on guys. Climb in light.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
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A terrible loss. Heartfelt condolences to their families and friends.
Rick
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
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Horrible. I didn't know the duo but they sure looked like great young men. Ever ever so sad. At times it is very hard being a climber; this is one of those times.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
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hey there say, tyear, and family and friends of gil and ben...
my concolences to you at this sad time of your loss...
may new memories of remembered things of the past, be there
to help you through this hard time...
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Beth S
Gym climber
Charlottesville, VA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
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My deepest condolences to all the friends and family of these two men. They are at peace now and can see by this amazing outpouring and effort from the climbing community how much they are loved.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
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Very sad news on SUPERTOPO today.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
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My sincere condolences to their family and friends.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
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Robb,
"My candle burns at both ends;
It will not last the night;
But oh, my friends, and oh, my foes —
It gives a lovely light!"
I think your chosen poetry that reflects their spirit is perfect.
Very sorry for the loss of your friends.
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aran
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
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This is a true tragedy- may their spirits and hearts be remembered and spoke of often. Climb safe everyone.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Jul 28, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
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I am so sorry for the loss of these two young, strong guys. From everything I've read they were standout climbers and human beings.
The Cordillera Blanca is a magnificent and amazing range, but with its glaciers that change so dramatically from season to season, it can be an exceptionally severe place to climb.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 28, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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"Shine on you crazy diamonds" . . .
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Anastasia
climber
InLOVEwithAris.
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Jul 28, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
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I am so sorry Tony! My condolences to all their family and friends. This is hard news that no one is ever prepared for. Be kind to yourselves.
Anastasia
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Jul 29, 2012 - 02:51am PT
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so very sorry
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roy
Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
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Jul 29, 2012 - 03:32am PT
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Very sad news. My condolences to their many friends and loved ones. Roy
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Matt
Trad climber
it's all turtles, all the way dooowwwwwnn!!!!!
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Jul 29, 2012 - 03:45am PT
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Sad news.
Condolences to family an friends.
But to be honest, I mean REALLY HONEST-
We are talking about mountaineering.
People die doing that all the time.
It's a known risk, and not an unlikely outcome.
I'm really sorry these guys will not be coming home, but I'd rather celebrate their passion for adventure than mourn their passing.
They knew the risk and they accepted it.
Nobody lives forever, and a mountaineer doesn't even come close.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Jul 29, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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This is terrible news. I met Gil randomly at the Bachar boulders near Mammoth - the dude was super nice and we chatted about all sorts of climbs. Later on, I read his trip reports and saw his name in a few summit registers with ridiculous car-to-summit times.
This is a horrible loss. Condolences to the friends and family of both climbers.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Jul 29, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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Peace and the love of the world to their moms.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 29, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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I was holding out hope, Ben and Gil have done so many hardcore climbs before, I figured they would surface,and have another terrific tale to share with us.
But that is not to be.
My sincere condolences to their family and many many friends.
Onward and upward.
GK
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jul 29, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
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Wow, just got back from a long weekend and had hoped to see positive news here - this sucks. While I never met Ben or Gil we are all part of the brotherhood of the rope, and it's really a sad day when we lose our brothers. Condolences and strength to the family, friends and community.
Paul
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paranoid-android
climber
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Jul 29, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
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I read this news last night. And I felt knots in my stomach. I know neither of these two gentlemen.
From the thread it appears these two gentlemen were both strong and talented.
It is a grave loss to any family to lose someone as young as these two men.
I feel very sad.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jul 29, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
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More positive young people taken from us.
Very sad news.
Sincere condolences to family and friends.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Black Rock City
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Jul 29, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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So sad to hear this today. I was hoping as I left town on Friday that things would work out better. The way the community pitched in to find these inspiring young men was a sight to see.
To their families and loved ones, I send prayers of comfort for your loss.
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namascar
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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Jul 29, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jul 29, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
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The article in the morning paper about them was heart rendering.
My condolences to their family and friends.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Jul 29, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
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So sad to read this.
My heartfelt condolences to Ben and Gil's families and friends.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Jul 30, 2012 - 12:28am PT
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My blessings to your friends and their families. May they rest in peace.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jul 30, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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just saw the news on msnbc and immediately knew it was related to this thread I had just read a day or so before. Good to hear one of the families has some context for it. Still not easy, but hate to hear of families in pain because of a loss.
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yu-min
climber
San Diego, california
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Jul 30, 2012 - 03:31am PT
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Gil often said that climbing for him was where he found the balance between freedom and control. I don't have many words to describe the feeling of loss, but i know that he was doing what he loved the most... a motto he lived by.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 30, 2012 - 04:24am PT
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This is especially hard to hear again just weeks after losing Mark Cartier on Mt. Hood. Such strong, vital climbers and all will be dearly missed. Condolences.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jul 30, 2012 - 11:04am PT
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Condolences to their friends and families.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 30, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Very sad.
Peace to friends and family.
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 30, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
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I met Gil back in 2005 or 2006 when he moved to San Diego after graduating from George Washington University. I can only remember climbing with him once, but he struck me as very ambitious. He had an eagerness and drive that put him on the fast track to some major climbing accomplishments. He seemed to make friends easily and was surrounded by very talented climbers within the San Diego community. After moving to Boulder, I lost contact with him. Sadly, I read his name on CNN.com and could't believe it...
I hear a lot of people taking comfort in that he died doing what he loved. For me, I can't imagine a worse place to pass on. The mountains are cold, harsh, and unforgiving. It seems he understood this, but it doesn't make his death any easier to understand. To his father, sister, and family, I wish the best in your time of grief. Gil was a great man who chose a life of extraordinary adventure. It was an honor to know him.
Please keep us informed on memorial services. Many of Gil's climbing friends, including myself, are now living in the North East and would like to attend, if you would have us.
-Colin Porter
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
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Adam, Jared and I just arrived back in Huaraz. This was a hard pill for me to swallow. I need a beer( or ten) and a shower. We spent the last two days accompanying our friends out of the mountains. Adam and I were there when the recovery team brought the bodies to high camp. We coordinated via sat phone with Ted of Skyline Adventures. This was a very difficult recovery. Many are to be thanked. I will post a complete report from my perspective, when I have recovered enough. Thanks everyone for your thoughts and prayers.
RIP Ben and Gil.
TY
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Jul 30, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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good job Tony
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 30, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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Tony, good job on a very hard job.
Condolences and prayers to their friends, family and other loved ones (partners).
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Jul 30, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
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RIP :(
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Gary
climber
"My god - it's full of stars!"
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Jul 30, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
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You're a good hand on a tough job, Tony. You get back here safe and sound, OK?
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Asa Firestone
Big Wall climber
Boulder, CO
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Jul 30, 2012 - 05:25pm PT
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I attempted this face with Gil in June, but we bailed due to bad weather. Here is the line that I believe they climbed before falling on the descent. It is a truly badass ascent. We had discussed calling the line "Live and let die" after a guns and roses song but that seems inappropriate. Maybe this line should just be known as the American Direct since it goes directly to the summit.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Jul 30, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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Good thoughts to family and friends. RIP guys.
Erik
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Asa Firestone
Big Wall climber
Boulder, CO
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Jul 30, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jul 30, 2012 - 07:29pm PT
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Very sad story, a terrible loss to family and friends. Thanks to TY and all the rescue crew for their hard efforts.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 30, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
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hey there say, asa.... man oh man, it sure is a whole other world, in a sense, up there...
edit (was said as to the picture of one of the climbers, up there, that loved that area)...
strong beauty, but dangerous is its name... :(
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Jul 30, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
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Thanks so much to all the people who helped in the recovery. Such a difficult task which means so much to friends and family. We salute your courage and humanity.
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climbers' mom
Social climber
Wilderness, VA
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Jul 31, 2012 - 08:27am PT
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Some words from Pope John Paul II that Ben shared before the accident. God rest the souls of Ben and Gil, and let us thank God for the inspiration they gave us.
“If it is true that sports activity, in developing and perfecting the physical and psychological potential of the person, contributes to a more complete maturity of the character, this is especially true for those who practice mountain climbing and engage in it in respect for the ideals which this sport sustains and nourishes. I exhort you in the words of my predecessor, Pius XII, to be “docile to the lessons of the mountain: . . . it is a lesson in spiritual elevation, of an energy which is more moral than physical.” I congratulate you on your programs which aim at educating your members in respect for nature and in a deepened examination of the message which she imparts to the human spirit. Have special concern for the young, to train them to follow the type of life that the mountains demand of their devotes. It requires rigorous virtues in those who practice it: strict discipline and self-control, prudence, a spirit of sacrifice and dedication, care and solidarity for others.Thus we can say that mountain-climbing develops character. In fact, it would not be possible to face disinterestedly the difficulties of life on the mountains if the physical and muscular strength, which is very necessary, were not sustained by a strong will and an intelligent passion for beauty. Help your members also to be contemplatives, to enjoy ever more deeply in their mind the message of creation. In contact with the beauties of the mountains, in the face of the spectacular grandeur of the peaks, the fields of snow and the immense landscapes, man enters into himself and discovers that the beauty of the universe shines not only in the framework of the exterior heavens, but also that of the soul that allows itself to be enlightened, and seeks to give meaning to life. From the things that it contemplates, in fact, the spirit is lifting up to God on the breath of prayer and gratitude towards the Creator.”
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2012 - 11:35am PT
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbYC5Cw08zg
I believe this is a video shot by member(s) of the Casa de Guia. In this video you hear Hector speak about this rescue and recovery, along with some details of the accident. Hector,who along with Ted Alexander, from Skyline and Eric Tomczak were the real heroes of this epic. I was not present when this was shot. We; Eric, Adam, and members of the Police High Mountain Rescue Group were taking Gil down from high camp @17,200' to the base camp @14, 700' at this moment. Please excuse any mistakes in memory, as I am still processing this event.
TY
"I am an Alpinist.
I am this before everything else. It is what has and will define me as long as I have breath in my lungs and a fire in my eyes. These mountains have forged friendships more steadfast than the slowest moving glaciers. Before this is all over I will have a laundry list of friends who have given their lives to conquer these massifs of rock and ice. This is okay with me as each one of them will have lived a life worth living.
I will never stop climbing. I am thankful each day for the lessons I have learned in the truthful cold and for the opportunities I have had to discover exactly who I am. If you identify with the words written here then raise your glass and celebrate the fact that you are one of the lucky ones.
I am an Alpinist. Chase your dreams and be somebody."
Adam Lawrence
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 31, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Embed? WARNING!! Respectfully presented body of one climber is shown wrapped and prepared for transport home. It will likely be a tough thing for loved ones and friends to see however.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Thanks, climbski2.Correction made. I'm still a little fuzzy.
TY
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
-A race of corn eaters
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Jul 31, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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Could someone translate Hector's words, or at least the major points of his conversation. Thanks.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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Here are some details, without being morbidly graphic , as best as we can determine. Ben and Gil left their tent about 3am. They climbed their new route to the summit of Pulcaraju Oest and reached the top at around 4pm. The last time stamp on for a summit photo was 4:01pm. Kind'a late in the day, but it was a new route and it takes time to figure things out. There are some photos of the descent, but only a few and the last time stamp is 6pm, near the top of the serac from which they fell. Few photos can be interpenetrated as the descent was problematic. Their tracks, going up, down and around obstacles attest to this theory. I imagine they were tired, dehydrated and just wanted to get down to their tent. Ben was leading down the ridge. Gil was following. They were moving together in classic alpine style without intermediate points of protection. It is a very complicated descent that cannot be fully appreciated from below. Their tracks show they made many detours and end-runs to get around crevasses and séracs. The tracks end abruptly at the edge of a sérac. It is supposed that Ben could not see where he was on the edge and as he walked to further out to investigate, the lip collapsed, falling away , taking Ben with it. He would have fallen about 10-15 feet down onto a sharp knife edge ridge. Then it was a coin toss as to which side he slid down. He slid down the southern side. He would have had about another 15 to 20 feet of steep, crappy snow to self arrest before he went over the edge of the rock band and into a tumbling fall down this rocky face. He did not arrest and the rope yanked Gil forward, face first, after Ben. Both went over the edge and fell, tumbling, down the rocky face to come to rest on the glacier a below. Estimates as to the length of the fall vary from about 150 to 300 meters. Gil had about 12 feet of rope tied to him, where at that point it was severed. Ben was wrapped in the remainder of their rope. Length of time would have been measured in seconds and death was mercifully quick. These are the details as I know them to be. There are facts that I have mentioned that cannot be explained without going into graphic detail. I reserve the right, out of respect to family and friends who were not their, not to be specific on this forum, as it relates to their deaths. I hope this is understood and respected.
TY
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Jul 31, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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Translation:
"We are in the zone that is near the accident. The bodies were found about 20 meters behind me. It appears they followed the main coliuor to the high point where you see the sun shining. There it appears they were looking for a way down and had to backtrack and a chunk of ice fell from beneath them or a mistake of some type was made which caused them to fall.
How far did they fall?
About 200 meters. They had a single rope which indicates that they were not rappelling. They were observing for a way to get down and fell or a piece of ice fell off beneath them."
Wherever it is that our souls go once we pass this plain, I hope you are smiling and climbing Gil and Ben. Very sorry for your loss friends and family.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
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TY
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 31, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
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For the sake of family and friends who have come to this thread and who may not be ready for it, it might be worth giving a warning that one of the climber's bodies appears in the YouTube clip that TYeary links above.
RIP
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Double D
climber
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Jul 31, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
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My condolences go out to all of their family and friends. Thanks for all of your efforts and updates Tony.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Jul 31, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
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Tony
Thanks again for your efforts in the mountains.
Be safe.
Wes
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jul 31, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
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I guess the working hypothesis is that they were on that serac and it fractured, pitching them both.
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 31, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
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Recone, the same thoughts went through my mind as well. I only knew Gil as a rock climber and not as an Alpinist. I'd be curious to know what level of formal training he had, or if his climbing experience was gained through his friends. Either way, it doesn't matter any more.
The youtube video is pretty hard to watch. Based on his look, Im pretty sure that's Gil. Might want to put a warning on that. Im sure his family will come here.
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Chugach Man
climber
Anchorage / Los Angeles
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Jul 31, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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Recone, those guys on Denali do deserve a thank you - ripping on these guys isn't gaining them one though. Gil and Ben were well known in multiple climbing circles, and therefore this story got a lot of publicity. It doesn't detract from anyone else's sad demise in the hills. As for the stake... it may have helped, it may not have. We weren't there, and therefore will never know what happened or what other considerations there were. I know somewhere you can put the stake though... and while you're doing so, let's let this thread be, and these guys rest in peace.
Colin, it wouldn't take you much digging to find out what kind of experience Gil had. He had multiple seasons in South America already, and other routes of similar magnitude. Unfortunately, sometimes you draw the wrong card - it could have been any of us. With respect to training, who knows. I've had both types though, and that gained by one-on-one experience with a friend has proved far more valuable than most "formal" trainings.
People, we go into the mountains accepting the risks. Some people push those limits more than others, but anyone can be unlucky, and anyone can be killed - whether it be pushing hard in the Andes, or on some 5.7 at your local crag. You've accepted that for yourselves by being climbers, I recommend you let the deceased rest, and realize they had to accept that to some level as well.
Ben and Gil, on second thought, screw the resting stuff, I hope you're still finding a way to push your limits and be the amazing souls we knew you as, albeit no longer with us, but rather in a better place.
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Bowie
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 31, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
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I second the motion to have Recone hammer a snow stake up his @ss.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Jul 31, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
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Recone, I find your comments to be strange and inappropriate. Give it a rest, please.
I'll add something for those unfamiliar with climbing in the Blanca. TY explains to us that the last photo on the descent was taken at 6 pm. Remember that this is a range close to the Equator, and that it gets pitch dark around 6 pm, maybe just a bit later. They were most likely racing darkness.
Also, darkness falls very quickly there, again because of the latitude of the Blanca, without the drawn out sunset that many of us are used to milking when we complete a day of climbing in North America. These guys must have been exhausted, descending a complicated ridge with plenty of hazards along the way, with rapidly dwindling light, if not in complete darkness. The light of a headlamp shows close features, but not the major features that one would need to see in order to make challenging route finding decisions. Having a headlamp would not give me very much comfort, and might not be all that helpful in getting down in those conditions. These guys must have known this as they were making their descent.
Descending a glaciated ridge, everything looking down such a ridge looks about the same, which is to say it is very difficult to tell which is the safest way down; or for that matter if the next roll in the ridge is gentle or a huge drop off. It is impossible to belay every dangerous inch on a mountain of that scale with that kind of terrain, and in fact is not necessarily the safest approach. Gil and Ben must have been dealing with all of these factors as they were making their way down the ridge.
Tony, you and the others on the mountain after the accident did a very noble act. Much respect to you all, and my sincerest condolences to the families and friends of Ben and Gil.
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JSpencerV
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Reflection:
Climbing is such a unique addiction. There is something to be said about sport where a single false move or misjudgment could lead to death. Everytime we go out to climb, we roll the dice. We assess the risk involved, draw upon our experiences but in the end life and death may be a simple matter of luck. Some climbers choose to embrace the modern ethics of climbing and rise up to the challenges of pushing limits and setting new routes. Some climbers embrace the social aspect of the sport and enjoy casual outings with friends on easy terrain. Some climbers lie in middle. The truth of the matter is this sport is dangerous and at whatever level you climb, there is always risk involved. Gil and Ben pushed the limits of climbing to the extreme. They embodied the mentality of fast and light and if something was too hard, you pulled harder. They served as an inspiration to all climbers at every ability level. When I climb now, they climb with me. Their memory will live on and inspire even as their time on this earth has passed. -Jared
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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Thank you Cragman and WBW. Your comments and insights are welcomed and you spoke my thoughts eloquently. I have no desire to get into a pissing match with anyone here about climbing style or ones qualifications, visa-vi their climbing resume.
Recone, I have nothing to say to you.
Port, if you read my post up thread you would know.
" I was not present when this(video) was shot. We; Eric, Adam, and members of the Police High Mountain Rescue Group were taking Gil down from high camp @17,200' to the base camp @14, 700' at this moment."
I, along with Eric, Adam, Jared, and Gary Sorenson( who helped with all communications and the over flight) sat down with Mr. Horne and Liora Danan( a very good friend of Ben) and discussed the details of the climb and accident as we know them to be. Mr Horne was very appreciative. He asked pointed questions, which we answered with respect and candor. He was sometimes calm, sometimes emotional, sometimes in tears. He is a father who just lost his son. He is leaning heavily on his Faith to get him through this very difficult time. My good thoughts are with Ben and Gil's families and friends.
I have nothing but admiration for those who helped in bringing Ben and Gil home. Especially, Ted, Jared, Adam, Hector, and Eric.
Big thanks as well to the many friends, here on ST and FB and at home who have personally given their emotional support and good tidings to me; this eased my burden and bolstered those relationships.
I have been climbing in the Blanca for many seasons. I love this place; it's mountains, people, and culture. I will continue to return. As Jared says, "When I climb now, they climb with me. Their memory will live on and inspire even as their time on this earth has passed. -Jared "
Suerte, Peace.
TY
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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One thing that struck me most about the video was the obvious strain and exhaustion on Hector's face. This accident must have taken a huge toll on him as well. I have a friend in the Casa de Guias who has done these types of recoveries before. Those guys are super strong, highly trained and very compassionate in my experience.
Tony, you and I apparently share a love of Peru, Peruvians and the Cordillera Blanca. I'm glad to read that you will return after this difficult season. I've lost three friends that I spent time with in Huaraz in climbing accidents in the Blanca, but I never felt that not returning was a good option. Un viaje seguro, amigo.
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climbers' mom
Social climber
Wilderness, VA
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Ron--did anyone answer your question about the company that gathered the data from the satellite photos? 'Sorry didn't see your question sooner--the company is Tomnod, and their site is:
tomnod.com
You can find info on their site about how to contact them. Phone: (858) 412-7693, email: info@tomnod.com
This article also has some names you might want of people in the company.
http://www.dailycamera.com/news/ci_21204690
I'll be watching Tomnod to see your search posted so I can assist in analyzing photos if needed. God be with the missing climber!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Thanks for that picture Tony. It really helps make sense of the whole thing.
Descents can be deadly.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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That video made me sick. Did not really want to see the body. But I guess that's a good reality check and a reminder to stay alert out there.
May sound f*#ked up, but I really wish it wasn't these guys. Ben was such an interesting person with many talents, seems like his friend was an awesome guy too...very very sad.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Before this thread degenerates with the vultures relishing the gory details of how a couple good men perished...
I only knew Gil briefly. I never had the pleasure of meeting Ben - I wish I had - he sounded like a warm individual who brightened the lives of many people here. Gil and I crossed paths for about a month or two - he had just hooked up with the pullharder circle down in SD. The one thing that struck me was what an incredibly motivated individual he was. Even after moving away, I kept following his awesome trip reports on Facebook - it was awesome route after awesome route. He was an inspiration for me to keep dreaming of amazing adventures in the mountains. Many things in life keep you from the mountains. Eventually the years pass by. But Gil and Ben (as a PhD graduate student!) made it happen - traveling to Andes. I was sad to see this tragic ending. It's heartbreaking. I realize this must be a tough time for the crew down in SD.
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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My condolences to the family and friends. It's hard to lose young, vibrant and happy people.
Tony, so proud to know you. There are good people everywhere and you are the best example of goodnesss one can find. Awesome on all of you who helped to bring them back to their families.
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Eric Tomczak
Mountain climber
Durango, CO
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Aug 10, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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All of you here on Supertopo are just absolutely incredible. I was on the original search & recovery team that found, and brought out Ben and Gil. I was in contact with Ted via sat phone and got the info you guys were giving about things spotted in sat photos. What ended up answering the question was just simple observation and a little luck, but your information was greatly appreciated.
I just returned to the US and am blown away by how many people cared about, and invested their time into looking for, Ben and Gil. Even from thousands of miles away. All of you guys are awesome, thank you so much for your help in finding our friends.
Keep it up, this is a beautiful show of community from the climbing world.
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noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
eldorado springs co
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Aug 13, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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Eric, I just read your letter to pullharder. I am grateful for the assistance that you, Asa, Ted, Hector, Henry and the other members of the ground search crew provided. You put your own lives at risk to bring closure to the family and friends of Ben and Gil.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
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Aug 14, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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This continues to be such a wrenching tragedy on many levels. My heart and prayers are still going out to Ben and Gil's families, friends, acquaintances and beyond.
In particular, I'm feeling with you Tony. I know this is not the first time you've been down this road. Your efforts here... well, I'm sure we all are very grateful for them. Glad you were there to help out as best you could. Do take care of yourself and reach out if needed. This is a lot to handle and we want you healthy and coming home safe and sound too.
Peace,
Eric
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Aug 15, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
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still can't believe this shit
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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A good story from Scotty:
Tragedy
The call came the way we always imagine it will, but never expect. It’s Asa. He’s concerned about Gil, he hasn’t heard from him in awhile. He lays the cold hard facts out, one by one. Gil and Ben are several days overdue in Peru. Gil’s flight is scheduled to leave in a few days, but no one has heard from them. They are probably fine, he emphasizes, but just in case he’s working to organize a search team. We’ll all have a good laugh when we get to the bottom of this, he assures me. I listen, and speak some words, but we both know he’s dealing from a stacked deck. I hang up, and collapse into tears.
http://pullharder.org/2012/11/01/the-first-ascent-of-astro-gil-tehipite-dome/
A route climbed in honor of Gil and Ben.
Luke
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
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Outstanding guys!
It's almost been four months and I am still processing my small role in this tragedy.
Cheers,
TY
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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What a great tribute. Perfect idea,
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Beautiful TR.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 29, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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BUMP.
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 27, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
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Still can't believe it's been a year. It feels much longer.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 28, 2013 - 10:26am PT
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Bump. Love your friends today more than yesterday.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2014 - 05:18pm PT
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Two years gone today, but I remember.
Love your friends today more than yesterday. Couldn't be more appropriate Greg.
TY
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 15, 2015 - 11:02pm PT
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3 years since the tragedy...sad time.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2017 - 12:05pm PT
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I had a dream last night. I was climbing high and free, swinging tools up an expanse of white, toward a cobalt blue sky,
Bringing myself back home
The clouds had begun to block out the sun and whatever warmth it had provided was fading. My world was changing from color to black and white. The shades of gray that were now filling my eyes matched the uncertainty that I was feeling. I wasn't sure of anything. Only that my friends were dead. The wind picked up a bit, and big, wet, sticky snow flakes were swirling around on the breeze. They stuck to my eye lashes and helped to disguise my tears. My climbing trip to Peru had begun with the colorful promise of adventure, discovery and fun. This day, like this season, had faded into monochrome; a surreal landscape of confusion, disappointment and death.
I had finished the inventory of Gil's personal belongings, packed up his stuff in his pack, and begun to do the same with Ben's gear. Ted, on the Sat-phone with Adam, had implored us to carefully safe guard their gear and personal affects. He was worried some of their climbing gear would be heisted and sold for pocket money by unscrupulous members of the High Mountain Rescue Police (HMRP). So, I secured their ice tools and other gear, items of clothing and most importantly, the data card from the only digital point and shoot camera we had found. The camera was practically broke in half, a testament to the violence of their fall, but the data card was intact and we secretly stashed it away. I had no way of knowing if images could be retrieved from it, but if so, perhaps they would provide clues to just what had happened on their descent from Paclaraju Oest.
It was late in the afternoon when we started down with Gil. We worked our way down a faint trail on the moraine to a high pond and the campsite of the HMRP. Up to this point it was relatively easy to carry Gil's body in a makeshift rope stretcher. From here it was decided to traverse the hillside until directly above and across from the base camp compound at the head of the Cojup Valley. This seemed like a good idea at the time. However, we soon found the slope was uncomfortably steep, the footing on slick grass, and, we had thousands of feet to descend. We began to lower Gil, pulling from below and belaying everyone from above from anchors that were barely holding the weight. They surely would have failed had anyone shock loaded the system. That would send everyone cascading down the slope, sliding and tumbling. And to make matters worse, the HMRP were ill trained and seemingly unmotivated to the hardship of the undertaking. Eric built the anchors, directed the rope work and generally shouted directions to these “ high angle specialty trained” personnel. It was grueling and nerve wracking. All the while, the fate of my buddies played over and over in my mind like a broken record. What had gone so terribly wrong? How could this have happened? I agonized over possible answers and scenarios. Questions bubbled up; why had they left their pickets behind? Why did they summit so late in the day: in the Blanca night falls fast. There is very little twilight this close to the equator. This left precious little time before dark to navigate a torturous, glaciated ridge descent. In the dark, with the limited visibility of headlamps, getting back to their bivi would have been time consuming and difficult. I guess I a needed mental distraction from the task of manhandling his corpse down the grassy slope. Finally, after several thousand feet of lowering, the angle relented and we found ourselves on the valley floor. It was here the HMRP gave up all together. It was with a look of contempt mixed with embarrassment, that a waiting Arriero ( mule driver) chided the HMRP as he single handedly hefted Gil's still frozen six foot frame, into balance over his broad shoulders, and slowly, deliberately, carried Gil the last hundred or so yards to the fenced compound of base camp. Like so much cord wood, he deposited him on the top of the low, wide stone fence, that cordoned off the herders shelter.
Eric, Adam and I made our way into the compound and sat down under one of the sheltered tables. We were worked and starving. We just sat there talking, trying to process the events of the day. No one was moving so eventually I made some Ramen and passed it to Eric. Every now and then I would look over to see Gil, perched on the wall, wrapped in his parka as if taking a nap. It was unreal, like a bad dream. With a bit of gallows humor, we were cracking jokes to ease the tension, to deal with the grief. Adam said that Gil probably thought we were idiots; dumb asses for risking our lives to bring him home. We spoke as if he could hear us, as if he was laughing at our expense. At one point I turned to say something to Eric. He was just sitting there, silently, staring down at his soup. In the dim light of the headlamp, I could make out the huge tears streaming down his cheeks. They plowed furrows through the grime and sweat of the day's effort. I turned to Adam who stared blankly back at me with blood shot eyes. The thousand yard stare. We were emotionally and physically spent. Done. I heard the silence roaring in my ears and the blood pounding in my temples. I looked out beyond Gil, and on the hillside far above us, and saw the flashing of headlamps. Ted's crew was bringing Ben down and would soon be here.
I slept all of about ten minutes that night. I couldn't turn my brain off. Mentally, I went over and over their climb, the line of descent, and what could have gone wrong? How do two experienced alpinists fall to their deaths roped together? Providing no answers, the morning came all too quickly and with it the donkey's sent to carry our friends down to the trail-head. Adam and I left early, before the donkeys started down. Met by our friend Jared at the trail head, we waited. Eventually the donkey's arrived and our friends were laid out by the side of the road. Some Peruvian officials had also arrived, taking pictures of the bodies, interviewing the HMRP team members and talking to a reporter. After the media frenzy, Gil and Ben were loaded onto trucks and carted off to the morgue. It was like a carnival of the macabre.
The next day, Ben's father arrived in Huaraz and Adam, Eric, Jared and Gary ( who helped with communications) and I sat down with Mr. Horne and Liora (a very good friend of Ben's) at their hotel and we discussed the details of the climb and accident as we knew them to be. Mr Horne was very appreciative. He asked pointed questions, which we answered with respect and candor. He was sometimes calm, sometimes emotional, sometimes in tears. He was a father who just lost his son. In the retelling of our experience, I realized how emotionally shattered we all were. We took some photos before we left. I tried to be accommodating, however, my thin and tight-lipped smile only punctuated the pain and emotional and physical fatigue that my weary eyes couldn't hide. That night, I finally slept long and deep; the first time in a week.
Jared said, “Climbing is such a unique addiction..... We assess the risk involved, draw upon our experiences but in the end life and death may be a simple matter of luck. Some climbers choose to embrace the modern ethics of climbing and rise up to the challenges of pushing limits and setting new routes. Some climbers embrace the social aspect of the sport and enjoy casual outings with friends on easy terrain. Some climbers lie in middle. The truth of the matter is this sport is dangerous and at whatever level you climb, there is always risk involved. “
Almost five years gone and I still think about that grim season in Peru. I didn't know it at the time, but the events of that season precipitated a fundamental change in understanding risk and how we attempt to manage it. Slowly, I began to understand, to accept that I too was mortal. After a while, I guess, it's only time in the shooting gallery. Perhaps I too will find myself in the wrong place at the wrong time. Some get that epiphany early on in life, others, like me, later in life. Whenever it happens, its a sobering event. And still, unanswered questions remain. My friend Chris Owen said, there is no “why”. Sh#t just happens. Similarly, Mark Twight said, “ We may train ourselves to be adaptable as possible, to respond appropriately in each situation, but the ideal of controlling the outcome or steering events as they occur must be relinquished. Chaos rules it all.” I suppose so. Still.....
I am still processing this event after all these years. I still dream about it occasionally. I am still dealing. My apologies for airing my dirty laundry with you all. But you are my climbing family, brothers and sisters of the rope, and while, hopefully, most have not had to endure this kind of tragedy up close and personal, we've all known the pain of loss. The unanswered questions. The void left un-filled. I wish us all Peace.
TY
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Thanks for sharing that heavy and heartfelt account. A beautiful and heartbreaking account. May your writing bring you comfort today and in the days to come. Chin up. They'd be proud of your love and devotion to them both.
Scott
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Tony, you take care, man.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks for sharing, Tony.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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friends are good for distributing the difficulties. the tough leads, the joy and the pain.
thanks for letting us think on your experience. peace be with you.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Thanks Tony... keep climbing boys
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Damn, Tony. That's rough. Beautifully written. I'm glad you felt okay about sharing this story. It's good to get this stuff out, important and valuable for all of us. Hang in there.
BAd
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Gilwad
climber
Frozen In Somewhere
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I am sorry for your loss Tony. I don't think I've met you, but we've lived some of the same experiences and your writing rings true. Peace with it all. I think what you've written is important, and should be read by everyone aspiring to be an alpine climber.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Thank you for sharing you feelings.
The best to you.
Mark
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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hang in there Tony!
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Tony,
I'm sorry for your loss. I remember well when it happened, as I was still very raw from my loss of my husband, Jack Roberts, from a fall on Bridalveil. Great that you are writing....that has been the single-most beneficial activity for me...that and long distance "hikes." (Like the Camino de Santiago de Compostela). Like you, for me it has been 5 years, a timeframe I can't comprehend. It feels like a long time ago that I did my first Camino, summer of 2012. And yet it feels like only yesterday I lost Jack...the emotions are still so close, so vivid and close.
I still climb, although honestly, mostly at the gym these days. I blame age and available time, but really, it's a form of fear. Not even necessarily of falling, getting hurt, or dying. I feel very close to Jack when I climb, which is both great, and intensely painful. Sometimes I'll do a particular move, and I can feel him moving with me as well....we climbed so much together over a 27 year period, that many of our movements and bits of body language of course became the same. I don't know....all I can say is keep writing, and keep loving your friends. Remember that each day is a gift, and live it like it truly is the only day we might have left.
pam
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I hope you can take some solace from your eloquence as we have.
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Intensely experienced and intensely shared. Thanks for posting this, Tony. The bell will toll for all of us. Meanwhile, onward with as much joy and grace as we can gather up~
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2017 - 10:11pm PT
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Five years have gone by, yet it's like yesterday.
Light streaming into the Cojup Valley. Even with light and color, it seemed sterile. The mountains all around us were constantly sending avalanches crashing to the glacier below. Day and night. It was not a forgiving place. The entire time I was there I had an uneasy feeling.
The head of the Cojup Valley. The base camp compound can barely be seen, on the left, tucked up against the edge of the moraine at about 14,700". I called this the valley of Death. Besides the reason for our being there, the valley was filled with the old bones of cattle and sheep, and with more than one rotting carcasses littering the landscape. It was, at once, a beautiful, dark and cold place. We, Adam Lawrence, Jared Vagy and I, had mountain biked( road and mostly pushed) our way to BC. Riding out was a gas though! I just wish our visit to the Cojup would have been under different circumstances. Still thinking of you guys climbing high into the sky.
RIP Ben and Gil.
TY
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jul 16, 2017 - 05:44pm PT
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TYeary, thank you for sharing your stories and your emotions. I wish you all the best.
Peace, Phyl
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