Favorite Climbs in Europe!

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 47 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jul 11, 2012 - 09:05am PT
I neglected to post a picture of the Cima della Madonna, so here it is...wreathed in "Nebula." (Italian for clouds!)

Pala di San Martino: the Scarf Arete follows the line of light and sha...
Pala di San Martino: the Scarf Arete follows the line of light and shadow directly to the summit; 5.7+ or 5.8-. This is from my 1963 ascent.
Credit: Brokedownclimber
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 11, 2012 - 11:38am PT
I'll ditto Presles as a great location to climb.

Presles in the Vercors, France
Presles in the Vercors, France
Credit: Brian in SLC

The Ecrins is fun too:

Aiguille Dibona
Aiguille Dibona
Credit: Brian in SLC

I seem to dimly recall tuesdays is the day the cheese truck shows up in La Grave, which can lead to this:

Discovering "gym sock" cheese by La Grave, France
Discovering "gym sock" cheese by La Grave, France
Credit: Brian in SLC

Recommend the Tour des Gémeaux on:

Mont Aiguille
Mont Aiguille
Credit: Brian in SLC
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jul 11, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
The Dolomites have the best food and wine in the Alps.

Lots and lots of killer rock in the Sellajoch/Groeden region. Much less expensive than Switzerland.

Personally, I'd love to get back and do a route on the big south face of the Marmolada:

http://www.versantesud.it/INGLESE/dettaglio.asp?id=131



ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Jul 11, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
Ditch the bike, before you go. You'll be hating yourself. Do a bike tour some other time. You want to rent a car to do any decent amount of climbing, and the time required to drive around will generally be greater than you expect.

You're probably getting the idea that the amount of climbing over there is staggering, so you'll have to be selective or you'll go crazy.

No time to post photos, so here's my link for you:

http://www.google.com/search?num=10&hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&q=spain+rock+climbing&oq=spain+rock+&gs_l=img.3.0.0i24l6j0i5i24l2.1248.5024.0.6287.11.10.0.1.1.0.172.1218.0j10.10.0...0.0.qXB9pHDtzbA&biw=1349&bih=1000&sei=LKz9T6ibLc_-2QWok5WyCg



can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jul 11, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
Don't ignore the experience of a classic klettersteig or via feratta. You can do these solo and they allow you to cross terrain normally reserved for roped climbing. It's something that is for the most part unique to Europe.

Wetterstein Klettersteig
Wetterstein Klettersteig
Credit: can't say
Impaler

Social climber
Berkeley
Jul 11, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
I lived in Europe for a few years and found that even with the abundance of guidebooks sometimes it's hard to come by good
info on routes (especially in the French alps). However, a new guide just came out that I think might change the game.
It's called Mont Blanc Supercracks and is all about multipitch splitters in the Alps. Might be hard to order, though, since you
can only get it shipped to Europe and need a bank there to pay. I'd love to get a hold of a copy.



My personal favorite route is "Etat du Choc" on Petic Clocher du Portalet on the Swiss side of Chamonix and at 11d is
probably harder than what you are looking for, but is by far the most splitter route in entire Europe.
Impaler

Social climber
Berkeley
Jul 11, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
Petit Clocher du Portalet
Petit Clocher du Portalet
Credit: Impaler
fgw

climber
portland, or
Jul 11, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Go for the Tre Cime Di Lavaredo group. An incredible cluster of spire-like mountains with tons of of moderates. Did Comici's Yellow Edge on Cima Piccola (5.9 13-pitch), Cassin's route on Picolissima (5.10 11 pitch) & Comici's line on the north face of Cima Grande (16 pitch 5.10 & WOW!!). Amazing climbing all of those! Tofana has a more moderate line right next to the 5.11 mentioned above that's rated about 5.9 & 18 pitches long (think it's called Tissi on the 2nd Buttress). There's a 5.7 somewhere next door too I think. Love the Dolomites. So much to climb.
iep

climber
Jul 11, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
the most splitter route in entire Europe

lots of granite cracks up there in Norway as well. especially way north in the Tromso/Kvaloya areas (and on the famous Lofoten Islands).

not as high and glaciated as the alps, but much more remote and quiet.
here's some pics of the route "Thanathos" (at Hollenderan), goes up the left wall in the first pic.


(hut on Kvaloya)



from http://www.blixt.no/KvaloyaArchives/ (topos & info as well)


in the same area, there are some steep granite routes on Blamann (some over 1600 feet long):


Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 11, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
iep,

No fair posting those pics! They're awesome.

I've climbed in the UK (Peak District and North Wales) and Arco and hiked and done ferrata in the Dolomites (near Corvara, between Sella and Gardena passes). If I had a chance to go back with a rope, I'd hit either the Dolomites or maybe some of granite in Switzerland. Number one on my list in the N. Face of Piz Badile. Chamonix looks awesome but (and I could be wrong on this) I get the feeling the weather can shut people down pretty quickly. After the Piz and Dolomites, the Verdon Gorge would be my third choice.

BTW, I'd ditch the bike too. Maybe you were inspired by that article in Alpinist a while back? Kind of a cool way to go back to the way old school of climbing in the Alps, riding to climbs like Hermann Buhl, etc., but it'd be a lot of work.
MoonGoon

climber
canadistan
Jul 11, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
Last June I went to Paklenica National Park in Croatia. I would seriously consider checking it out if you can. You might melt if you go there in August but should be good to go in September. Could even catch a cheap ferry from italy to Zadar if you happen to be there.
Can't say enough about this place: Awesome climbing - sport and trad both single and multipitch, cheap camping and apt accommodation for 20 euro/night if you want. About a 20 min walk to the park from the town of Sarigrad. beautiful beach complete with naked euros max 5 min walk from where ever you stay.

Here's kate rutherford's blog about the place: http://katerutherford.com/?p=637

Also the park website: http://www.paklenica.hr/paklenica_en/index_en.html

Not that much info on line but really, all you gotta do is rock up and buy a guide book at the local climbing shop.

DO IT.
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Jul 11, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
If you come over to SW France, cruise through the Gorge d'Aveyron. It's gorgeous with amazing uncrowded sport climbing. If you do hit me up and I'll put you up for a couple nights.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jul 12, 2012 - 02:46am PT
iep: wow, that looks good! Stovelegs East. I suppose the mosquitos are the size of sparrows up there? What's the precipitation situation like in July/Aug?
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Jul 12, 2012 - 04:47am PT
Whoa. That Norway stuff looks awesome.
Impaler

Social climber
Berkeley
Jul 12, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
Lolli, thanks a lot for the offer! That's very nice of you.
I've been trying to convince my friend from Munich (and partner from
the Petit Clocher du Portalet trip) that he wants to get a copy (-:
I don't even know when I would ever make it to Europe again sadly...
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Jul 12, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
The Rebuffet route on the Aguille Du Midi is a great climb.
Alpinist63

Mountain climber
Schleck-Country
Jul 13, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
here some routes that would make an interesting trip:
roughly from east to west:
tre cime comici on the north face of cima grande
marmolada south face don quixote or vinatzer-messner
badile n-e face cassin
wendenstöcke ( switzerland, superb limestone)
grand capucin swiss route- o sle mio / mont blanc massif , excellent granite
meije (south face direct +) traverse , one of the very best alpine routes
and then finish the trip in the verdon gorge
these routes need good weather but are no way as involved as north face of the eiger or of grandes jorasses. in an average alpine summer, you have a good chance to get these done.
a good book to get some more ideas : parois de légende by arnaud petit
jahwise

Trad climber
santa fe, nm
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
Credit: jahwise
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Jul 14, 2012 - 04:30am PT
If you end up at the Eiger Nordwand there is a relatively easy Klettersteig (Via Ferrata) on the far right hand side.
Ladders on the Eiger
Ladders on the Eiger
Credit: Andy Fielding
Lamberto

Sport climber
Italy
Aug 15, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
Credit: Lamberto
MBSC will be soon distributed in US, in the meantime the order from Europe will be charged with delivery costs. If anybody is interested link www.camurrilamberto.it
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