Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
|
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
|
Brian.
Congrats with the book!
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
|
Thanks! I just got that copy in the mail. Hard to find.
I've climbed at all three main areas described by the book, so, was curious to see what the recommended routes were...
Great area. Too bad the main cliffs at Sainte Baume are closed to climbing (seasonally?). We managed some fun shorter routes around the corner while there a couple of years ago in May.
Cheers!
|
|
ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
|
Climbed at Les Goudes and Sugiton at the beginning of the month this July. Access restrictions in summer are based on fire hazard, see Conditions d'accès aux massifs forestiers for daily update, Calanques at top. Today (31 July) is unrestricted (orange). Our conditions varied from cool due to sea breezes and fog to quite warm for hiking but okay for climbing.
Access to Sormiou seems questionable, at least based on the RockFax guidebook description. The road now ends just past the prison at a gated community, so far as we could tell.
The description for accessing Sugiton was also a bit lacking. The Luminy campus is divided into two separate areas, in adjacent valleys. Local signage leads one to park at the western campus area, which adds a bit of hoofing up and over a pass. Most locals seemed to come in from the eastern portion of the campus near the School of Architecture or similar.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
|
ddriver
You say:
"Access to Sormiou seems questionable, at least based on the RockFax guidebook description. The road now ends just past the prison at a gated community, so far as we could tell."
and
"The description for accessing Sugiton was also a bit lacking."
My comments:
There's a road leading all the way to the village Sormiou, but you're not allowed to drive by car all the way, so you have to walk or use a bicycle. I have walked the distance a couple of times. You need 1,25-1,5 hours.
If you take Bus 23 Beauvallon from Rond Point du Prado to Beauvallon and walk in the direction of Sormiou, you find Colline de Lun 20 minutes walk from Beauvallon. Colline de Lun has a lot of sport climbing routes French grade 5-7. From Colline de Lun there's around an hours walk to Sormiou.
Sugiton is not the easiest crag to reach. One of the easiest crags to reach from Luminy is Cret St. Michel, where you find some sport climbing routes at Secteur Creche and just around the corner at Secteur Paroi Noire - a lot of «multipitch» routes (mainly 3-4 rope lengths) French grade 4-5-6.
|
|
rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
|
Hey, Brock...
Thanks for the memories. Upstream, post #20... Who else was with us that day? Is that my American ass hanging over the Mediterranean?
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
|
|
|
Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
|
|
Hi Robbs - Just saw your post from late July. Yeah, that was without a doubt a fun diversion from wet days in Cham! I actually think that may be Dick Jackson hanging his butt over the water in the photo. As I remember, he did most of the traverse in nothing but his EB's, and had to be "rescued" numerous times by the young ladies topless sunbathing on various anchored yachts. Good times!
|
|
Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
|
Bump for content
Steve
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
|
Sportclimbing crags close to Marseille city - in the Marseilleveyre area
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
|
The guidebook pictures above are taken from "Escalade Les Calanques" by Andre Bernard, Gilles Bernard, Pierre Clarac, Herve Guigliarelli, Bernard Privat. The guidebook is excellent and recommended to everyone who goes to the Calanques to climb.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
|
Another easy to reach crag - Vallon Des Escampons in the Morgiou area. It's 5 minutes walk from the bus stop to reach the crag. Around 20 routes, 20-30 meters high, grade 5b-6c.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2014 - 05:07pm PT
|
Morgiou on old postcards - climbing where ever you turn...
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2014 - 03:31am PT
|
Les Calanques: A Personal History of the People and the Climbing. An article by Bernard Vaucher in Mountain 103, 1985.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!