Climbing in the Calanques - Marseille - France

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Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2013 - 11:48am PT
Zinedine Zidane about La Castellane, Marseille (2004 interview): 'I am first of all from La Castellane and Marseille,' ... I am proud of where I come from and never forget the people I grew up with. Wherever I go, La Castellane is where I want to go back to. It is still my home... It is true that it is still a difficult area, what is called in French a quartier difficile. But I think there is also a special culture there. I think Marseille is probably a place like Liverpool, very vibrant and very tough. I know players such as Bruno Cheyrou and Anthony Le Tallec, who should do well in Liverpool for this reason. My passion for the game comes from the city of Marseille itself. Unfortunately I can't go back there as much I want to...'

The whole article: http://www.guardian.co.uk/football/2004/apr/04/sport.features

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
All the Calanques from Marseille to Cassis

Correct order from Marseille to Cassis is: Sormiou - Morgiou - Sugiton - En Vau - Port Pin.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
Joseph Conrad in Marseille - chronologically - his first sea-journey was on the barge "Mont Blanc":

1874
19 September - Konrad comes to Krakow;
13 October - Korzeniowski leaves for Marseilles . His uncle and guardian, Tadeusz Bobrowski, allows him a grant of 600 rubles a year;
15 December - he goes for his first sea-journey, as a passenger, on the barge "Mont Blanc" which goes from Marseilles to Martinique;

1875
23 May - Korzeniowski comes back to Marseilles;
25 June - another voyage on the "Mont Blanc", this time as a trainee seaman to Haiti;
23 December - return to Le Havre;

1876
8 July - as a steward on the "Saint Antoine", he travels from Marseilles to Martinique, Haiti, Venezuela, and Columbia. During these journeys he meets Dominic Cervoni, the model for several of his characters (Jean Peyrol, Nostromo, Attillio);

1877
15 February - return to Marseilles;
2nd half of the year - Korzeniowski is involved in gun smuggling to Spain

1878
February - Korzeniowski unsuccessfully attempts to commit suicide (because of debts?) - he shoots himself in the chest but is not seriously injured;
27 March - Tadeusz Bobrowski comes to Marseilles - he pays Korzeniowski's debts and grants him 950 rubles a year from now on;
24 April - Korzeniowski joins English steamer the "Mavis", for the first time as a "able bodied seaman" - voyages to Constantinople and Yeysk;
10 June - return to the mother-port of the ship - Lowestoft;
11 July - Korzeniowski as a sailor joins schooner "The Skimmer of the Sea";
23 August - he leaves the ship after three courses between Lowestoft and Newcastle;
12 October - he joins the "Duke of Sutherland" and as a sailor leaves for Australia"


Marseille - Le Vieux Port
Marseille - Le Vieux Port
Credit: Marlow

Marseille La Cannebiere
Marseille La Cannebiere
Credit: Marlow

"I'd like to just step into this street scene, head right over to the Cafe on the left, and watch the trams go by as I sip a café au lait. The trams have been there since 1875, when the first horse-drawn tram traveled on this very street. If I were sitting in some other city, I might look at the trams with sadness, predicting their demise in a few decades. Not so in Marseille where trams have been running continuously since 1876."
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
Calanques 2013
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 28, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
Gaston Rébuffat:  Calanques
Gaston Rébuffat: Calanques
Credit: Brian in SLC
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
Brian.

Congrats with the book!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 30, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
Thanks! I just got that copy in the mail. Hard to find.

I've climbed at all three main areas described by the book, so, was curious to see what the recommended routes were...

Great area. Too bad the main cliffs at Sainte Baume are closed to climbing (seasonally?). We managed some fun shorter routes around the corner while there a couple of years ago in May.

Cheers!
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Jul 30, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
Climbed at Les Goudes and Sugiton at the beginning of the month this July. Access restrictions in summer are based on fire hazard, see Conditions d'accès aux massifs forestiers for daily update, Calanques at top. Today (31 July) is unrestricted (orange). Our conditions varied from cool due to sea breezes and fog to quite warm for hiking but okay for climbing.

Access to Sormiou seems questionable, at least based on the RockFax guidebook description. The road now ends just past the prison at a gated community, so far as we could tell.

The description for accessing Sugiton was also a bit lacking. The Luminy campus is divided into two separate areas, in adjacent valleys. Local signage leads one to park at the western campus area, which adds a bit of hoofing up and over a pass. Most locals seemed to come in from the eastern portion of the campus near the School of Architecture or similar.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
ddriver

You say:
"Access to Sormiou seems questionable, at least based on the RockFax guidebook description. The road now ends just past the prison at a gated community, so far as we could tell."

and

"The description for accessing Sugiton was also a bit lacking."

My comments:
There's a road leading all the way to the village Sormiou, but you're not allowed to drive by car all the way, so you have to walk or use a bicycle. I have walked the distance a couple of times. You need 1,25-1,5 hours.

If you take Bus 23 Beauvallon from Rond Point du Prado to Beauvallon and walk in the direction of Sormiou, you find Colline de Lun 20 minutes walk from Beauvallon. Colline de Lun has a lot of sport climbing routes French grade 5-7. From Colline de Lun there's around an hours walk to Sormiou.

Sugiton is not the easiest crag to reach. One of the easiest crags to reach from Luminy is Cret St. Michel, where you find some sport climbing routes at Secteur Creche and just around the corner at Secteur Paroi Noire - a lot of «multipitch» routes (mainly 3-4 rope lengths) French grade 4-5-6.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Jul 31, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
Hey, Brock...

Thanks for the memories. Upstream, post #20... Who else was with us that day? Is that my American ass hanging over the Mediterranean?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2013 - 03:14pm PT

Calanques: Some easy multipitch bolted routes above the sea

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
La Ciotat - Mega Bloc - Marie Da Silva
La Ciotat - Mega Bloc - Marie Da Silva
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
Calanques Psicobloc Waterline Cliff Diving
Brock Wagstaff

Trad climber
Larkspur
Sep 8, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
Hi Robbs - Just saw your post from late July. Yeah, that was without a doubt a fun diversion from wet days in Cham! I actually think that may be Dick Jackson hanging his butt over the water in the photo. As I remember, he did most of the traverse in nothing but his EB's, and had to be "rescued" numerous times by the young ladies topless sunbathing on various anchored yachts. Good times!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
L'air des Calanques
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
Marseille




1930s with parts of its history told
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Nov 12, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
Bump for content

Steve
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2013 - 03:58pm PT

Calanques - Pilier Est de l'Eissadon
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2013 - 12:07pm PT

Sportclimbing crags close to Marseille city - in the Marseilleveyre area
Marseille - Les Calanques - the main climbing areas
Marseille - Les Calanques - the main climbing areas
Credit: Escalade Les Calanques
Marseilleveyre
Marseilleveyre
Credit: Escalade Les Calanques
Marseilleveyre, Falaise du Roy D'Espagne, Secteur du Lys - one of the ...
Marseilleveyre, Falaise du Roy D'Espagne, Secteur du Lys - one of the secteurs at Roy D'Espagne. At Roy D'Espagne you find around 70 bolted routes, mainly grade 5c-7a.
Credit: Escalade Les Calanques
Marseilleveyre, Falaise Pastre, a part of Secteur Haute Tension, one o...
Marseilleveyre, Falaise Pastre, a part of Secteur Haute Tension, one of the secteurs at Pastre. At Pastre you find around 80 bolted routes, mainly grade 5a to 6b+.
Credit: Marlow
Marseilleveyre, Le Massilia. Here you find around 20 bolted routes, 25...
Marseilleveyre, Le Massilia. Here you find around 20 bolted routes, 25-30 meters high, mainly grade 5c-6c.
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
The guidebook pictures above are taken from "Escalade Les Calanques" by Andre Bernard, Gilles Bernard, Pierre Clarac, Herve Guigliarelli, Bernard Privat. The guidebook is excellent and recommended to everyone who goes to the Calanques to climb.

"Escalade Les Calanques" by Andre Bernard, Gilles Bernard, Pierre Clar...
"Escalade Les Calanques" by Andre Bernard, Gilles Bernard, Pierre Clarac, Herve Guigliarelli, Bernard Privat.
Credit: Marlow
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