Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic |
bringmedeath
climber
la la land
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 24, 2006 - 04:40pm PT
|
What is it? Interested to know what your guys highlight pitch has been. Post pic if you got them! I have 2 that are rad. Pitch 3 or Shortest Straw and Pitch 6 of PSD. Both are simply rad and p3 of the Straw is pure fun! I will post pics in a bit... lambone this is for you cause you are bored today too! HAHAHA
This is at start of the Brain. Probably funnest pitch I've ever led, cause you do tons of bomber hook moves. Mega fun and I'd recomend the route to anyone whos done some hooking and nailing, even if easy. I may have better pic but this is it for now.
|
|
bringmedeath
climber
la la land
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 04:52pm PT
|
Oh sh#t... I'd have pounded empties in to protect that dude...
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 04:55pm PT
|
Thanks Jake, I'm actually gearing up to do something like the Straw with a good friend. Maybe another route though.
mine is probly this one,
or this one:
easy climbing, mostly favs because of the stellar line.
photos are from this site of course.
|
|
Darnell
Big Wall climber
Chicago
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 04:57pm PT
|
yeah the second and third pitch of the straw was fun, I soloed the 2nd pitch, and the brain was thought provoking, but not to hard.
Mt favorite though would have to be the 4th pitch of Zenith, I had to do some weird penjy with a grapling hook verticaly aligned with my middle finger, had to do an aid slash free move to to send the penjy, kind of hard to explain but boy was it fun!!
The 15th pitch on Zenith was also quite fun.
|
|
Blakeb
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Oregon
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
|
First Pitch WFLT was da BOMB!!! Oops, dropped my camera...what route you thinking about doing now, matt?
blakeb
|
|
Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:01pm PT
|
Yeah Jake, that is a fun pitch on the Straw. Hmm, the two pitches that stand out for me is the “Squeakn’ by Beakn’” pitch (5th) on High Line; beaks straight up in a very thin roof seam, tied off at the eye hole.
The other one that stands out is the first pitch of Full Steam Ahead. I rated it A3+ at the time but looking back at it I’m guessing it an A4+ pitch, maybe even A5. I was naive about ratings back then. Both routes have never been repeated.
(This is where I plant the seed)
http://www.rocknclimb.com/topos/HighLine.jpg
http://www.bigwall.com/fullstem.html
|
|
bringmedeath
climber
la la land
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 05:02pm PT
|
Lambone, what else are you thinkin of? I really enjoyed ZM too, I didn't think it was that loose like most people say. In fact I want to do that one again and lead the pitches I didn't lead.
Klaus, what route is that? Something on left side of Falls Wall?
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:06pm PT
|
it's a secret. no, I think it's between South Seas, ZM and Straw. but last EC route I did was Zod so I'd rather head up the WEML. everytime I go I say that is my next objective....next time.
|
|
PDHMAN
Trad climber
Eastside N of Bishop just S of 395
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:34pm PT
|
The entire three P's of "Artist's Tears"...solo.
P1 of "You're Psycho Dude", Stronghold Dome
P2 of "You're Psycho Dude", Stronghold Dome.
P3 of "Deep Voodoo" Clean & Solo
P-3 "Zenyatta Entrada"
|
|
yo
climber
I'm so over it
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
|
So...where's that Widow's Tears thing at? SICK!
Lookin' for this pic, Jake?
Anybody got any pics of the Black Cave? One of my faves fer sure.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 06:57pm PT
|
The Black Cave? Coming right up. I have a whole series of Cybele leading it. Here is one of the better photos of her. In fact, looking at the photos, I could do a whole post just on that one pitch!
She climbed, I belayed.
Nice digs, eh?
From left to right on El Cap:
Excalibur P6 - the thin left-leaning crack. Once considered to be "the hardest aid pitch on El Cap" way back when. I remember interesting nailing and heading. The wide cracks above keep this route from seeing too much traffic, so this pitch is not too beat-out.
Bermuda Dunes - what a superb route! Something that really should get done more often. The Lazer Beam and the thin beak pitch above are what I most remember.
Sunkist - the splitter crack up the stellar orange headwall! Woo-hoo! Spectacular situation
Jolly Roger - ARR, may-tees! The thin hooking on P4 is sweet. The truly sick cheat-stick hooking above the body-cleaving pinnacle on P11 are the raddest hook moves I've ever made. I had my sharpened skyhook duct-taped on the end of my hammer, and had to climb up two aiders joined end to end. The placement turned out to be this little nubbin about a third the size of my baby fingernail. I also really loved the thin heading above the A4 Ramp - DFU for sure!
Sea of Dreams - man, too many to pick! Hook or Book is a definite classic, and I also remember doing ten hook moves in a row somewhere above the Tooth and beyond the Surfboard.
Native Son - I really loved the Coral Sea. Soloing it let me do a bunch of rope tricks. The first time I soloed it I placed a bunch of pins, and every damn one of them moved the rock in some way. I had to bail as it was 1998 - the El Nino spring. I came back the next year and sent the route, and I climbed the Coral Sea with a lot more finesse - lots of nylon slings and hooks, far less nailing.
Scorched Earth - the 15-foot Lovetron move on the crux Big Brother pitch. What fun! Legit "cheating".
Aurora - the All-Time Head Pitch - P11. Perfect.
The Shortest Straw - I liked the fifth pitch - you have to pick your way across dangerous ground using the safest placements. They're there if you know how to use 'em.
|
|
PDHMAN
Trad climber
Eastside N of Bishop just S of 395
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 07:02pm PT
|
YO: "So...where's that Widow's Tears thing at? SICK!"
The Artist's Tears... Jimmy Dunn's Masterpiece!
River Road, East of Moab. 3-4 Ps of consistent A4ish Entrada "Sugar". It's a consistent spincter checker(the brown streak is from previous party's sphincter checks) and you just don't fall cause nothing will hold, hee hee hee! Just the way I like it.
The Start of P2:
|
|
bringmedeath
climber
la la land
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 07:19pm PT
|
Yo, yup I like that one better. I couldn't find the disk to get that one.
That river road thing looks sick. I think that is in my guide book? Rad, should have gone up there if that's the one I think it is.
Pete, hella... you got some cool ones listed! Now to get back in the free shoes and forget about big cams and aider on some of those pitches. Bermuda Dunes is high on the list of routes I still intend to repeat. Post some pics that none of us have ever seen! I know you have them!
|
|
ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 07:25pm PT
|
favorite aid pitch? --
the roof on Wet Denim DayDream .. (at night!)
.. or soloing the black tower on zodiac (at night!) ..
.. and lastly .. the illusion chain on PO .. (at night!) ..
umm .. maybe i need to get up earlier ..
|
|
bringmedeath
climber
la la land
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 07:28pm PT
|
or drink more... no forget gettin up too early dude. have fun and enjoy... otherwise why do it at all?
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 07:31pm PT
|
Jake, not only will I never get up early, but I will probably never step out of Free Climbing Retirement. And if I do, you can bet your ass it won't be into no offwidth!
You can click here for [url="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=182414&f=0&b=0#msg182802"]a few photos from Bermuda Dunes.[/url]
|
|
pyro
Trad climber
stoney point,ca
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 08:28pm PT
|
started to get the real deal when I was climbing pitch 4 then 9 to 14 on Tissaack. That was my real hard man one and only route. I like royal robbins so I wanted to see what he had done. the prior pic's are flattering to me. looks like real experienced climbers take camera's. sorry no pic's for me.
|
|
golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 08:38pm PT
|
pdhman, nice pics. I backed of that artists tears thing about 20 years ago. I vaguely remember some bat hooks on the first pitch is that right?
|
|
pyro
Trad climber
stoney point,ca
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 08:46pm PT
|
gray cicle just under my favorite nipple.?
|
|
pyro
Trad climber
stoney point,ca
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 09:05pm PT
|
cool, yet are you as pathetic as me, I had to look up "novice".
those are some nice spots. that section of rock is clean.
|
|
bringmedeath
climber
la la land
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 09:07pm PT
|
HAHAHA, that last pic is classic! I think I dumped out my bag and went looking for any OE800 I had left. Yo, did we do anything like that??? That last pitch of Zodiac was cool. Cams under a big block then like crawl up onto ledge. Oh ya... and haul light bags and drag over the lip...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 09:10pm PT
|
The roof onto the shield.
|
|
BPorter
Big Wall climber
Quartz Hill, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 09:17pm PT
|
And.....what would Yosemite Valley be without all the welcome advice from bigwall theorists, naturalists, and grandpas as the team does the ceremonial gear sorting in the Meadows. Hey....where's Werner ???
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j136/porterb10/img149.jpg
|
|
PDHMAN
Trad climber
Eastside N of Bishop just S of 395
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 09:37pm PT
|
GOLSEN: "pdhman.... I backed of that artists tears thing about 20 years ago. I vaguely remember some bat hooks on the first pitch is that right?
20 yrs ago it had some decent placements! Today, nine of the first twelve placements on P1, in the soft Entrada, are Beaks hand placed into the old sugary bathook holes. The only solid piece of pro on P1, till the anchor, is the original drilled #1 angle. All the rest is total mank hand placed, body weight only sawed off #2's and 3's that are totally worthless. P2 is a bunch of blown out #2-4 angle holes that will take body weight only #2 & #3 Tech Friends, leapfrogged with an occasional Beak. It gets worse as you ascend onto P-3. Got to love it!
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 11:27pm PT
|
Coral Sea was memorable....
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
|
A bit busy this aft to help, but can one of you computer gurus please give these guys a quick lesson on how to hotlink a photo, and put it directly in the post? Thanks.
Please limit your images to a maximum 700 pixels wide. You can resize with the free Irfanview program.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2006 - 05:18pm PT
|
Nice photos Chief!! Thought you had a fondness for Zenyatta Entrada??
Exciting and memorable......'Stigma's 2nd pitch (15 heads in a row).
|
|
de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2006 - 12:09pm PT
|
Artist Tears
World's smallest bigwall!
Headwall pitches on Magic Mushroom.
|
|
pyro
Trad climber
stoney point,ca
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 07:38am PT
|
my all time favorito's are the pitch's with the least rope drag.
I hate having to free climb out of the aiders.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 08:30am PT
|
Tonsillectomy Traverse, Son of Heart. Nails up and out a big roof, then along a 40' horizontal line of pockets.
|
|
ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 11:02am PT
|
Haven't done any sick crazy aid climbing. I thought The nipple pitch on Zodiac was cool after it was cleaned of all fixed gear.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 03:21pm PT
|
The first Triple Crack pitch on the Shield, before it got beat out (circa 1976) was a thing of beauty.
JL
|
|
nopantsben
climber
|
|
|
Jul 10, 2013 - 03:53am PT
|
who's gonna win the war? was good.
the rurp pitch on tribal.
|
|
Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2013 - 12:31am PT
|
Maybe not the best climbing, but this was a pretty spectacular pitch. Too bad some punk ass kids chopped it after using a select few of the many bolts on the route
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2013 - 12:35am PT
|
The groove pitch on the Shield and the headwall on Salathe.
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2013 - 12:43am PT
|
Roofs are my favorite!!
Roof on Wet Denim is okay too!
or The Shield Roof! Yay!
!!
|
|
| Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!