Favorite aid pitch?

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Messages 1 - 48 of total 48 in this topic
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 24, 2006 - 01:40pm PT
What is it? Interested to know what your guys highlight pitch has been. Post pic if you got them! I have 2 that are rad. Pitch 3 or Shortest Straw and Pitch 6 of PSD. Both are simply rad and p3 of the Straw is pure fun! I will post pics in a bit... lambone this is for you cause you are bored today too! HAHAHA

This is at start of the Brain. Probably funnest pitch I've ever led, cause you do tons of bomber hook moves. Mega fun and I'd recomend the route to anyone whos done some hooking and nailing, even if easy. I may have better pic but this is it for now.
klaus

Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
Apr 24, 2006 - 01:49pm PT
This was fun. Pretty much A1 unless the whole thing were to cut loose, which it will soon.




Dripping & Ticking, ...Injustice for All
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 01:52pm PT
Oh sh#t... I'd have pounded empties in to protect that dude...
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Apr 24, 2006 - 01:55pm PT
Thanks Jake, I'm actually gearing up to do something like the Straw with a good friend. Maybe another route though.

mine is probly this one,


or this one:



easy climbing, mostly favs because of the stellar line.
photos are from this site of course.
Darnell

Big Wall climber
Chicago
Apr 24, 2006 - 01:57pm PT
yeah the second and third pitch of the straw was fun, I soloed the 2nd pitch, and the brain was thought provoking, but not to hard.
Mt favorite though would have to be the 4th pitch of Zenith, I had to do some weird penjy with a grapling hook verticaly aligned with my middle finger, had to do an aid slash free move to to send the penjy, kind of hard to explain but boy was it fun!!
The 15th pitch on Zenith was also quite fun.
Blakeb

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Oregon
Apr 24, 2006 - 02:00pm PT
First Pitch WFLT was da BOMB!!! Oops, dropped my camera...what route you thinking about doing now, matt?
blakeb
Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Apr 24, 2006 - 02:01pm PT

Yeah Jake, that is a fun pitch on the Straw. Hmm, the two pitches that stand out for me is the “Squeakn’ by Beakn’” pitch (5th) on High Line; beaks straight up in a very thin roof seam, tied off at the eye hole.

The other one that stands out is the first pitch of Full Steam Ahead. I rated it A3+ at the time but looking back at it I’m guessing it an A4+ pitch, maybe even A5. I was naive about ratings back then. Both routes have never been repeated.

(This is where I plant the seed)

http://www.rocknclimb.com/topos/HighLine.jpg

http://www.bigwall.com/fullstem.html
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 02:02pm PT
Lambone, what else are you thinkin of? I really enjoyed ZM too, I didn't think it was that loose like most people say. In fact I want to do that one again and lead the pitches I didn't lead.

Klaus, what route is that? Something on left side of Falls Wall?
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Apr 24, 2006 - 02:06pm PT
it's a secret. no, I think it's between South Seas, ZM and Straw. but last EC route I did was Zod so I'd rather head up the WEML. everytime I go I say that is my next objective....next time.
PDHMAN

Trad climber
Eastside N of Bishop just S of 395
Apr 24, 2006 - 02:34pm PT
The entire three P's of "Artist's Tears"...solo.



P1 of "You're Psycho Dude", Stronghold Dome



P2 of "You're Psycho Dude", Stronghold Dome.



P3 of "Deep Voodoo" Clean & Solo



P-3 "Zenyatta Entrada"


yo

climber
I'm so over it
Apr 24, 2006 - 03:55pm PT
So...where's that Widow's Tears thing at? SICK!



Lookin' for this pic, Jake?




Anybody got any pics of the Black Cave? One of my faves fer sure.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 24, 2006 - 03:57pm PT
The Black Cave? Coming right up. I have a whole series of Cybele leading it. Here is one of the better photos of her. In fact, looking at the photos, I could do a whole post just on that one pitch!



She climbed, I belayed.



Nice digs, eh?

From left to right on El Cap:

Excalibur P6 - the thin left-leaning crack. Once considered to be "the hardest aid pitch on El Cap" way back when. I remember interesting nailing and heading. The wide cracks above keep this route from seeing too much traffic, so this pitch is not too beat-out.

Bermuda Dunes - what a superb route! Something that really should get done more often. The Lazer Beam and the thin beak pitch above are what I most remember.

Sunkist - the splitter crack up the stellar orange headwall! Woo-hoo! Spectacular situation

Jolly Roger - ARR, may-tees! The thin hooking on P4 is sweet. The truly sick cheat-stick hooking above the body-cleaving pinnacle on P11 are the raddest hook moves I've ever made. I had my sharpened skyhook duct-taped on the end of my hammer, and had to climb up two aiders joined end to end. The placement turned out to be this little nubbin about a third the size of my baby fingernail. I also really loved the thin heading above the A4 Ramp - DFU for sure!

Sea of Dreams - man, too many to pick! Hook or Book is a definite classic, and I also remember doing ten hook moves in a row somewhere above the Tooth and beyond the Surfboard.

Native Son - I really loved the Coral Sea. Soloing it let me do a bunch of rope tricks. The first time I soloed it I placed a bunch of pins, and every damn one of them moved the rock in some way. I had to bail as it was 1998 - the El Nino spring. I came back the next year and sent the route, and I climbed the Coral Sea with a lot more finesse - lots of nylon slings and hooks, far less nailing.

Scorched Earth - the 15-foot Lovetron move on the crux Big Brother pitch. What fun! Legit "cheating".

Aurora - the All-Time Head Pitch - P11. Perfect.

The Shortest Straw - I liked the fifth pitch - you have to pick your way across dangerous ground using the safest placements. They're there if you know how to use 'em.
PDHMAN

Trad climber
Eastside N of Bishop just S of 395
Apr 24, 2006 - 04:02pm PT
YO: "So...where's that Widow's Tears thing at? SICK!"
The Artist's Tears... Jimmy Dunn's Masterpiece!
River Road, East of Moab. 3-4 Ps of consistent A4ish Entrada "Sugar". It's a consistent spincter checker(the brown streak is from previous party's sphincter checks) and you just don't fall cause nothing will hold, hee hee hee! Just the way I like it.
The Start of P2:
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 04:19pm PT
Yo, yup I like that one better. I couldn't find the disk to get that one.

That river road thing looks sick. I think that is in my guide book? Rad, should have gone up there if that's the one I think it is.

Pete, hella... you got some cool ones listed! Now to get back in the free shoes and forget about big cams and aider on some of those pitches. Bermuda Dunes is high on the list of routes I still intend to repeat. Post some pics that none of us have ever seen! I know you have them!
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 24, 2006 - 04:25pm PT
favorite aid pitch? --

the roof on Wet Denim DayDream .. (at night!)

.. or soloing the black tower on zodiac (at night!) ..

.. and lastly .. the illusion chain on PO .. (at night!) ..

umm .. maybe i need to get up earlier ..

bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 04:28pm PT
or drink more... no forget gettin up too early dude. have fun and enjoy... otherwise why do it at all?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 24, 2006 - 04:31pm PT
Jake, not only will I never get up early, but I will probably never step out of Free Climbing Retirement. And if I do, you can bet your ass it won't be into no offwidth!

You can click here for [url="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=182414&f=0&b=0#msg182802"]a few photos from Bermuda Dunes.[/url]
pyro

Trad climber
stoney point,ca
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:28pm PT
started to get the real deal when I was climbing pitch 4 then 9 to 14 on Tissaack. That was my real hard man one and only route. I like royal robbins so I wanted to see what he had done. the prior pic's are flattering to me. looks like real experienced climbers take camera's. sorry no pic's for me.
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:38pm PT
pdhman, nice pics. I backed of that artists tears thing about 20 years ago. I vaguely remember some bat hooks on the first pitch is that right?
BPorter

Big Wall climber
Quartz Hill, Ca
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:45pm PT




http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j136/porterb10/img006.jpg

pyro

Trad climber
stoney point,ca
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:46pm PT
gray cicle just under my favorite nipple.?
BPorter

Big Wall climber
Quartz Hill, Ca
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:48pm PT
Pyro,


From a Big Wall Neophyte's perspective that one and the one that precedes it....Pitch 9 are my all time favorites!!

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j136/porterb10/img070.jpg
BPorter

Big Wall climber
Quartz Hill, Ca
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:54pm PT
Giving credit where credit is due, I was lucky to have this man "hang out" for three days and provide me with over 300 quality shots of my first El Cap route.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j136/porterb10/img049.jpg
BPorter

Big Wall climber
Quartz Hill, Ca
Apr 24, 2006 - 06:03pm PT
I have to believe that no single aid pitch is better than the last pitch of a wall and the resultant celebration.


http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j136/porterb10/img094.jpg
pyro

Trad climber
stoney point,ca
Apr 24, 2006 - 06:05pm PT
cool, yet are you as pathetic as me, I had to look up "novice".

those are some nice spots. that section of rock is clean.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 06:07pm PT
HAHAHA, that last pic is classic! I think I dumped out my bag and went looking for any OE800 I had left. Yo, did we do anything like that??? That last pitch of Zodiac was cool. Cams under a big block then like crawl up onto ledge. Oh ya... and haul light bags and drag over the lip...
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Apr 24, 2006 - 06:10pm PT
The roof onto the shield.
BPorter

Big Wall climber
Quartz Hill, Ca
Apr 24, 2006 - 06:12pm PT
Please allow a "novice" to indulge himself. The pitch above peanut ledge is equally memorable if not for the pitch itself but the incredible "isle in the sky" vantage point of the belayer.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j136/porterb10/img015.jpg
BPorter

Big Wall climber
Quartz Hill, Ca
Apr 24, 2006 - 06:17pm PT
And.....what would Yosemite Valley be without all the welcome advice from bigwall theorists, naturalists, and grandpas as the team does the ceremonial gear sorting in the Meadows. Hey....where's Werner ???

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j136/porterb10/img149.jpg
PDHMAN

Trad climber
Eastside N of Bishop just S of 395
Apr 24, 2006 - 06:37pm PT
GOLSEN: "pdhman.... I backed of that artists tears thing about 20 years ago. I vaguely remember some bat hooks on the first pitch is that right?

20 yrs ago it had some decent placements! Today, nine of the first twelve placements on P1, in the soft Entrada, are Beaks hand placed into the old sugary bathook holes. The only solid piece of pro on P1, till the anchor, is the original drilled #1 angle. All the rest is total mank hand placed, body weight only sawed off #2's and 3's that are totally worthless. P2 is a bunch of blown out #2-4 angle holes that will take body weight only #2 & #3 Tech Friends, leapfrogged with an occasional Beak. It gets worse as you ascend onto P-3. Got to love it!
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 24, 2006 - 08:27pm PT
Coral Sea was memorable....

Jonny D

Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
Apr 24, 2006 - 08:48pm PT
haven't done too much, but, this one (p8) on zm

http://mysite.verizon.net/jondela/walls/zm.jpg

also p8 and 15 on dihedral and p10 on bad seed, and of course the roof pitch on the nose
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 25, 2006 - 10:34am PT
A bit busy this aft to help, but can one of you computer gurus please give these guys a quick lesson on how to hotlink a photo, and put it directly in the post? Thanks.

Please limit your images to a maximum 700 pixels wide. You can resize with the free Irfanview program.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 26, 2006 - 12:02pm PT
(img)http://www.yourphotos.com/yourphoto.jpg(/img);

Use brackets [] in place of of parentheses.
mooch

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 26, 2006 - 02:18pm PT
Nice photos Chief!! Thought you had a fondness for Zenyatta Entrada??

Exciting and memorable......'Stigma's 2nd pitch (15 heads in a row).

Mike.

climber
Apr 26, 2006 - 02:36pm PT
No way to pick a fave, Jake. I get all monkeyed up with a pitch itself versus the time I had on a pitch. I've had inordinate fun on likely-crap pitches, and been emotionally disabled on jewels. Same with routes. Partners, weather, mindset, phys condition, allotted time, equipment, supplies, traffic, yada--it all creates a blend of experience that I have serious trouble dissecting. Any time I'm out there off the deck it's basically sublime. I even like belaying! Cheers...
de eee

Mountain climber
Tustin
Apr 27, 2006 - 09:09am PT
Artist Tears
World's smallest bigwall!

Headwall pitches on Magic Mushroom.
pyro

Trad climber
stoney point,ca
Apr 28, 2006 - 04:38am PT
my all time favorito's are the pitch's with the least rope drag.
I hate having to free climb out of the aiders.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 28, 2006 - 05:30am PT
Tonsillectomy Traverse, Son of Heart. Nails up and out a big roof, then along a 40' horizontal line of pockets.
ChrisW

Trad climber
boulder, co
Apr 28, 2006 - 08:02am PT
Haven't done any sick crazy aid climbing. I thought The nipple pitch on Zodiac was cool after it was cleaned of all fixed gear.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Apr 28, 2006 - 12:21pm PT
The first Triple Crack pitch on the Shield, before it got beat out (circa 1976) was a thing of beauty.

JL
nopantsben

climber
Jul 10, 2013 - 12:53am PT
who's gonna win the war? was good.

the rurp pitch on tribal.
Scole

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:31pm PT
Maybe not the best climbing, but this was a pretty spectacular pitch. Too bad some punk ass kids chopped it after using a select few of the many bolts on the route


Credit: Walt Shipley
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
This one's my favorite....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQbGKA1j6ls
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
The groove pitch on the Shield and the headwall on Salathe.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
Yeah.....you mean this one? I'm down with that.....


Shield
Shield
Credit: Cragman
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
Roofs are my favorite!!
Iron Hawk
Iron Hawk
Credit: E.E.

Roof on Wet Denim is okay too!
or The Shield Roof! Yay!

!!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 10, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
Oh yeah...

Credit: Cragman
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