Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 217 of total 217 in this topic |
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 17, 2006 - 09:56pm PT
|
I love the Black Canyon - it's absolutely my favorite place to climb. It's big, bad, and scary. Nearly everything is a Grade IV or more. You start your day, typically, by hiking down that awesome canyon by headlamp, and then you spend most or all of the day climbing back out. I've climbed out in the dark on more than one occasion.
Here's a story by Brad White (lifted from MountainProject.com) about doing Air Voyage with Derek Hersey circa 1990. It's also more or less a tribute to Derek, who, for those who didn't know him, was one of the warmest and flat-out funniest people you would ever meet. Air Voyage is a 13-pitch climb with a notorious, 60-foot section of offwidth on the 10th pitch that is rated 5.12-.
Greg, I don't know if you remember me, but you, Clean Dan, Derek and I hung out on more than one occasion at the campground on the North Rim swilling beers, (Sheaf Stouts, of course on the part of Derek and myself) way back when. I climbed a number of routes with Derek back then in the Black, mostly getting dragged up serious pitches. Those are very special memories for me.
If I remember correctly at all, Derek was not able to free the infamous OW. I'm almost sure that we did not have any more than one extra-large camming unit, if that: it just was never Derek's style to carry much gear for specialized situations. I think we carried a bicycle-type water bottle for each of us, a couple of Snicker's, and an apple for me (Derek did not believe in eating fruit.) in a small fanny pack. We may have each had a long-sleeve tee shirt wrapped around the waist, but certainly no real rain gear. I would never go that light today on such a major route, but I was far less experienced then and also I had tremendous faith in Derek.
We ran out of water long before getting to the crux OW and were really suffering. When we got to the start of that pitch, Derek reached into the crack and pulled out a bottle of something. It could have been urine and I would have guzzled it, but it was water with some kind of mysterious chunks floating around inside. We drank all of it and went on our way.
Derek may have free climbed to the old tube chock, rested on that, and then did a couple of moves of french-free using a large unit. He mostly freed that pitch with very little gear. Greg Kenyon (sp?) later told Derek that he had left the bottle of water in the crack a year or two previous to our climb. I never wanted to find out what the chunks in the water were.
I definitely remember the weird slithering required on the right-traversing, horizontal OW above the crux, finishing in the dark and coming really close to puking on the rim. I also remember the Anchor Steam that Clean Dan handed me at the top of the exit gully. I may have actually puked back at the campground.
Looking at Derek's handwriting on the topo that you scanned into the description for Air Voyage brings back some very nice memories for me, but also memories of how terrible it was when he died. Derek was one of the first people I met when I moved to Boulder 18 years ago, and was my connection to a bunch of very interesting characters in the climbing community. As strange as it sounds now, it never occurred to me that he might get killed soloing. The night Crusher called me with the awful news I was devastated. I suppose you could say that Derek was a bit of a hero to me, and I've certainly lost touch with some of those great and eccentric folks from the past.
The loss of Clean Dan removed me from those times one step further, even though I had not seen him for years prior to his death. Hope you are well, and thanks for the walk down memory lane.Brad White
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 06:19am PT
|
I'm with you Grug, that place is awesome.
I only started climbing there a few years ago but have to concur that it is great. Certainly one could spend a lifetime picking out gems there. We'll be there May 12-20, come out. I'm trying to assemble a posse. e-mail me if interested.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2006 - 09:15am PT
|
Hey Kevin. I might be up for going to the Black for part of that time - although it's just a little early for me to actually climb (shoulder surgery).
You know, I'm really hoping for an account of a Stratosfear ascent in this thread. I've wanted to do this since I first heard of it 16 years ago. Beginning about 20 pitches up, 5 horizontal pitches of 5.11 R and 5.11+ R. Put up by Randy Leavitt and ?? It's number one on my ultimate to-do list. Would take a really fast partner.
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 09:21am PT
|
Interestingly, I talked to Leavitt about that route last year when I ran into him in Maple. I think my friend Tim has done it. I'll ask him to post up some beta.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 09:28am PT
|
Greg...Randy and Leonard Coyne did the FA. It was Leonard baby from the start. Randy was one of the few crazy enough to try it with Leonard.
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 11:18am PT
|
What were all those little spoons for at the base of the wall?
Im too young to have so many Black stories...
History in the making...JOSH WHARTON!
He will climb EVERY route down there...most onsight faster than I can drink a half rack.
|
|
golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 11:59am PT
|
A pic to set the Flavor...
Stoned Oven 1994
|
|
golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 12:03pm PT
|
The Black is a totally awesome place! My first trip there shows the ignorance of my youth…. I worked in a climbing shop in SLC in the early 80’s. A friend of mine came in and had recently done the Scenic Cruise V 5.10+, about 16 pitches. All the stories that came out of the black in those days were of epics. My friend was like “this is the greatest route you gotta go do it!” After hearing that repeatedly I talk my partner into doing it and off we go, driving from SLC to the Black. When we hit the Colorado border I ask my partner to look at a map. You see, we didn’t have a clue where the route was. Was it on the South Side of the Canyon or the North…Oh SH&&! It is like a 2 hour drive around the sucker. My partner and I were laughing at eachother. “Great route you gotto do it!” We were suckers driving down to do a Grade V and we didn’t even know where the route was!
I vaguely remembered that many climbers camped on the North Rim so we went that away. We drove up just before dark and the place was friggin huge! Then I realized that we had no route description, no topo, hell I didn’t even know where the route was except I had seen a picture of the bottom which sorta resembles the Nose. When you are just east of the Cruise gully you can see the route and I checked it out, I told my partner that must be it! The plan had been to climb it the next day. Finally, we were saved by some wisdom and we decided to check this big sucker out more fully before jumping on it. The next day we scoped the route out and there was a seasonal ranger who had some topo’s. He was a really cool guy and he encouraged us. We copied down the topo and went for it the next day. Surprisingly, it went quite well until before the scary 5.9ish traverse that used to be protected with a manky bolt. All hell broke loose and it hailed and rained. We hung out shivering, too high to retreat, and pretty dumb in our shorts and windbreakers. I thought it was going to be the bivvy from hell, but it stopped storming. I remember leading that traverse being scared shitless, on the biggest climb I had ever been on at that time with a manky bolt and wet rock, it was all I could do not to stain my shorts. Of course we topped out in the dark. I cracked open a beer while lying on top of my sleeping bag and passed out after two sips…
The second time I did that route was also kind of amusing. I lived in Kansas and I didn’t know who to take out there to do the thing. I asked one of the most talented climbers I knew at the time,(Adam) he had just turned 15 and the biggest climb he had done was the bastille, but he could pull down and he had the right spirit. But I digress, the story really started in San Diego, 5 months before, where I was at an Environmental Engineering Conference and I sat down to lunch. There was an attractive female across the table with the title of Dr… The engineering profession is not known for its beautiful women so I was glad to sit at the same table. As I was talking to this women I found out she was from Colorado. It was obvious that she was a climber from her hands. So I told her that I had spent the weekend before the Conference at JT. She told me after the conference that she was headed to a climber friends house, the same people I had climbed with in JT! One of my best friends was also her friend! Coincidence. We had dinner together that evening and said our good byes.
So back to the Black with Adam, As we descended the Cruise gully it surprised me how much more popular this place was 10 years later. There was a party in front of us and one behind. When we got to the base of the climb, it is the same woman I had met in San Diego! After struggling while leading the second pitch, Adam was not up for leading. I was plenty psyched remembering how scared I had been 10 years earlier so I took the sharp end the rest of the way. The crux was driving home the next day. Adam had a learners permit but almost crashed so I took the wheel. Gassing up in central KS on the way home Adam wakes up, “I am so tired!” hahaha I thought as a sought out enough caffeine to see me home…
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 12:09pm PT
|
Astro Dog...
I did my first (the Cruise) route in the "Black" in 1981. The place still gives me chills every time I climb there.
|
|
paulj
climber
utah
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 01:45pm PT
|
I did Scenic Cruise on a 4th of July weekend in 1983 with Jim Brink, a Ft. Collins guy. We'd heard so much about the Black that we were scared sh#tless before even roping up. About halfway up--in the section with the series of slightly overhung 5.10 hand and fist cracks--Jim locks in a knee jam, cuts both hands loose and screams above the roar of the river, "I LOVE IT!! I JUST LOVE IT!!".
Probably my all time favorite climbing moment.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2006 - 02:38pm PT
|
I remember my first climb in the Black - the Cruise, with Clean Dan Grandusky. What I remember most was the early (still dark) start to the hike down the Cruise Gully. For people who know Clean Dan, you might be amazed that HE woke ME up. He wanted to make sure that we were the first on the route. Hiking down that gully seemed surreal...and the two rappels down to who knows what made for even more adventure. We ended up topping out at about 1:45, but it was nice to be the first on the route.
I can't remember a bad time that I've ever had in the Black...the Goss-Logan, Journey Home, the Stoned Oven, the Flakes, Air Voyage...they're all special. Even getting lost on the Eighth Voyage of Sinbad and having to rap 8 pitches and hike out the hideous gully was fun. I'll probably end up doing Journey Home 20 times before I'm through.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
|
Greg wrote: I can't remember a bad time that I've ever had in the Black...the Goss-Logan, Journey Home, the Stoned Oven, the Flakes, Air Voyage...they're all special. Even getting lost on the Eighth Voyage of Sinbad and having to rap 8 pitches and hike out the hideous gulley was fun. I'll probably end up doing Journey Home 20 times before I'm through.
Seem a lot of people get lost on that section of the wall. I had one of wildest days climbing trying near/on/off that route. After 20 routes in the Black that is one were I got benighted.
Feeling cocky...one rope and normal rack we went for it.
Rapping in the dark, getting the rope stuck, climbing up to get the rope unstuck and then a bivy on a 2x2 ledge 500 feet from the ground, the river and water.
Out of water, no food and no extra clothing. One of the most beautiful nights I have every spend outside. Sun rose at 5:15 and we rapped, downclimbed to the ground. Barely able to swallow due to cottonmouth I raced to river and drank two quarts of the best water I ever taste. A nice climb out "the Walk of Shame' we were back at the campground and safety.
We only had to leave three camalots and some slings. By a stroke of luck, Greg got my cams and returned them to me.
Thanks again Greg.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 06:46pm PT
|
Warren and I had no beta and no clue. We ended up cold-calling some guy named Keith in Montrose whose number we'd been given by I don't know who. Keith was amused, to say the least, and attempted to verbally deliver a topo/description for some route to the right of the Scenic Cruise, maybe the Leisure Climb? This effort brought us a couple pitches up to a bushy ledge of sorts, beneath a left-facing corner featuring a sustained offwidth for which we had neither the pro nor the gumption required to send. Round One to the Black.
Eventually, after roping up just to get out of the canyon, we saw some folks climbing the left shoulder of the Checkerboard and thought "that doesn't look so bad". We climbed something over there the next day, and it went OK-- all I remember now is some sketchy climbing in a dirty flared fingercrack over some bunk brass, and that topping out on the Checkerboard still required a slog up the remainder of that friggin' gully. That was enough for that trip.
Now I live 3 hours away, and I get on a route or two a year. It creeps me out just about every time, somehow. I can't imagine parking it there for an extended trip-- you live through one or two of those things, feel lucky to have survived, and are happy to go home in one piece.
This from what is probably the tamest outing in the Black: good rock, no-brainer navigation, splitter cracks, not too long. Yawn. At least you still get to hump it up a gully towards the end.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2006 - 07:19pm PT
|
Bob. I believe that was A Moveable Stoned Oven that you got off route on? Turns out, 3 years ago, I started that route with my friend Clare Dunning. We got a late, late start on a very hot day.
The first part of the climb involves a fair bit of 4th class scrambling before getting to the 5.10 offwidth first real pitch. So I lead the pitch (in shorts like an idiot) and Clare struggles mightily on the follow. At the top of the pitch, he is nearly delirious with heat exhaustion, it's already late, and we decide to bail - no easy decision with that horrendous hike out.
We rap the offwidth pitch, do some scrambling, and then I belay Clare down some tricky 4th class stuff. Well, at one point, 60 feet below me, he slips off of a ledge and ends up taking a huge pendulum and crashes into a dihedral. After several minutes of me shouting – asking if he’s all right, he manages to speak and indicates that I can lower him about 25 feet to a ledge.
Well, I scramble down to the ledge, and it turns out he basically can’t move. By this time, it’s about 3:30. We’re still about 200 feet up, almost out of water, and Clare is thirsty as hell. So I take a couple of water bottles and scramble down to the river and return with one of them (I lost one to the river - doh!). I hang out with Clare for some time, and, eventually we realize that he is not going to be walking out of the canyon that day, so I give him all of my spare clothes, try to make him as comfortable as possible, and hoof it back out the canyon.
I arrive at the ranger station at 10:00 PM. Brent (the coolest ranger I have ever known) is there and he goes into action right away. Brent wanted to hike down that night, but was ultimately overruled by his superior. The rescue will occur in the morning. I spend the night at the ranger residence, after having a huge spaghetti dinner prepared by Brent’s girlfriend.
OK, this is getting long so I’ll use brevity on the rescue. The decision is made to hoist him out of the canyon – all 1700 feet. At first light, Brent and another hike down with oxygen, water, food, and a sleeping bag. At around 7:30 AM, most of the SAR team arrives. Doing all of the preparatory work seems to take forever. It’s not until about 4:00 PM that the hoisting actually begins. They (we, I was one of about 25) hoist him over the edge at around 8:00 PM. He’s taken in an ambulance to a hospital in Delta, and eventually released at around 1:00 AM. I drive him back to Denver that night. He was badly bruised but nothing broken.
Turns out, this was the longest (in terms of vertical feet) rescue ever that involved hoisting the victim.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 08:15pm PT
|
Greg...I let my partner make the decision on where the route (MSO) started and once I realized we off route is was too late. We continue upward, sideways, east and west. I climbed a few new pitches (hard 5.11+) left of Air/Eight Voyage pitches 5-8, saw some chalk and followed that.
I tried to traverse right to Air Voyage, did a serious, scary pitch to a wide-crack. Saving the last big piece I ran it out, pull the four friend off the rack only to have slip out of cramped hand and fall 1200 feet the ground. I wanted to cry. I told myself at the age of 52 I done with this place. There had to be a better way to spend my "Golden Years". I somehow reverse the moves and got back to the belay. We talked about options and then started to rap!
My wife described having a child as the most painful thing (three times, no drugs) she has ever felt. She also said said that a minute after its over...she would do it again.
Two weeks later I back climbing in the "Black".
The chalk belonged to Steve Levin and Alex Shannian. They also got lost a few days earlier trying to find Movable Stoned Oven.
I want to hear some stories from Brent A. Time to come out of the closet.
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 09:37pm PT
|
God's truth....
ON the drive to the Black we are passing Pioneer Point (baby black canyon crag) Big fat lady waves us down, paniced style.
First thing out of her mouth "my dog went over the edge". My partner and I are thinking the obvious.
"We can hear him down there, my husband is a climber but couldn't get to him, he went to assemble a rescue."
Ryan and I dive in from the rim. Dog took a 30-40 footer str8 away onto a ledge, a little blood, but no dog.
We descend about a pitch down the only sane way off the ledge, a chimney (solo mind you) and see Max the 150 lb Burmese wonder dog f*#kn terrified. We leap frog him down the chimney, unwedging him, handing him down, rewedging him, climbng past the donkey show, rinse, repeat for about 200 feet.
We get hiim back UP to the rim right as the rescue team is arriving, hand him over, go puff down to run a push on the H wall.
Two months later the ranger I handed him over to is at a party at MY house...he regales the masses and lasses with the a great story of how HE rescued a 150lb dog out of Pioneer Point sans assistance...
In MY house, at MY party I was plentyyyyyyyyyyyy looped up, in fact if memory serves I started the night with 6 cylinders str8 from the Valley, green sticker and all that a bro dropped by for me...I busted his f*#king ass (verbally) and reclaimed my noble schmack down right.
It gets better, order another round...
|
|
marky
climber
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 09:41pm PT
|
you were saying, Brent ... ?
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 09:48pm PT
|
I'd never been able to say I had a real epic, then I met the Black.
My first trip down one of her gully's was an epic and we never got on route.
Jeff and I had gone down the gully to climb the Scenic Cruise. However a poor weather forecast, the overcast sky, and the few rain drops we started to feel, made the descision to bail the easy.
On the way back up the cruise gully I feel a sudden, sharp pain on my right shoulder...I look down to see a Bee stinging me.
Not that big of a deal right? WRONG! I'm allergic to bee sting's. And my Epi-pen is on the rim.
Time to move. I kick it into high gear and make for the rim. Jeff being 25 years my senior can't keep up and tells me to just go.
So i'm pretty much running....solo up the first easy rap...then the second harder one. At the second I stop long enough to fix and throw a rope for Jeff.
I must have been a sight busting out of the top of the gully and onto the road. What do I see? Brent leaning over the rail at the Ranger station in his relaxed way. His expression barely changes as I come running up. I tell him what happened, and he gives me a huge dose of benedryl.
We wait awhile and the benedryl does it's thing....ended up being ok.
We climbed the route the next day, and I had my first experience with the Black Canyon "thirst".
Not my most epic Black story, but it certainly was one hell of a greeting.
josh
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 09:51pm PT
|
More Brent....
And I might need a partner for that thing in RR we talked about...you in?
josh
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2006 - 10:19pm PT
|
Brent..that's funny sh#t.
Brent...what makes someone spend 9 days on a new grade six on that wall... solo and in the winter no less?
Are you better now??
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2006 - 04:30am PT
|
I love this thread. Grug, how is the Flakes? I'd like to try that this year.
Something I've noticed about that place in the few times I've visited is that the average age of the climbers seems to be about 40. Last year I ran into Bob Robertson (who should probably hook up with E and T2 at some point for a novelty FA), who I hadn't seen in about 15 years. Old dads getting after it in adventure town, nice.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2006 - 08:16am PT
|
Kevin. The Flakes is a good one - apparently it does not get done much. I did it in 1992 with a guy I'd just met the week before, climbing in Boulder. I don't know that I'd recommend this, but we did it by starting on the north rim, hiking down the SOB gully, and crossing the river to get to the start. After topping out, we did a short hike to the next downstream gully, and bushwacked down that thing (with one rappel), crossed the river again, and hiked up the SOB. The route has some memorable pitches. As long as you feel solid on 5.9 wide (like free-solo solid), it's not all that scary.
When I was going to the Black with Clean Dan in the early '90s, we used to run in Bob Robertson and his daughter, Carrie (I think) semi-regularly. I was always amazed - she was only 14 in 1990 or 91, and here she was climbing some big bad route out of the Black...with her DAD!
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2006 - 12:15pm PT
|
this is more of a bump, have to go do some work stuff...
I was better for a while, but now I'm fuqed again....lol.
Early ascent of No Pig Left my partner and I are simulin a block down low when nature's call hits HARD. In desperate need to release the monster duece I climb a little faster, pull up a bunch of slack, release the beast (while belaying), zip up, and fall back into rhythm with no missed beat. This is one of that partners favorite stories to laugh at me about.
I knew the Black was the real F-in deal when Tom Pulaski mentioned "putting the rope on our backs" in a midstream discussion of a second ascent on the painted wall as well as "chasing down that damn Kor"....
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2006 - 01:02pm PT
|
One could only wonder what was going on in Jimmy and Earl heads when they when to do the FFA of the Cruise.
Had to be be one of the most historical ascents in American climbing history.
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
|
Indeed Bob,
Or Earl's solo....Visionary, or truly "touched"?
I've freesoloed two routes down there, on the same day...I stopped 3 times on the drive out telling myself "NO, don't do it"
I can't imagine what the shape the Cruise was in back in those days...but mutha f'er....almost seems "touched" to me.
Proud work that Springs crew put in down there.
I got ALLLLL fubarred with Leonard one night and listened to him drop some stories on me...that place is just proud, plain and simple.
I hope it remains that way FOREVER! I, however, fear that is not the case.
I'd stack Boulder's Million dollar crew up against any set of dudes in the world...they are THAT badass. I just a puddle of dung compared to how those boyz roll.
Good on 'em...carry that torch HIGH!!!!!
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2006 - 07:44pm PT
|
Brent...don't know if you knew Earl or not? He was a wondedful and kind person. One of the nicest I have met in the climbing world.
Earl and Jimmy made quite the pair. Climbed with Earl a bit when I lived in C-Springs. I first met Jimmy back in the late 70's and still keep in touch with him. His first solo of the big stone (El-Cap) was an amazing feat by an amazing climber.
I agree with your assestment of some of these way talented climbers these days. It's great to see these folks taking over where past generations left off.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2006 - 08:28pm PT
|
Those Colorado Springs climbers - Jimmy Dunn, Earl Wiggins, Leonard Coyne, ... I'll bet most of the folks at ST don't even know of them, in spite of the fact that their accomplishments stack up with the best of the Stonemasters'.
So Brent, if you don't mind me asking, what are the two routes you soloed?
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2006 - 08:51pm PT
|
Greg wrote: Those Colorado Springs climbers - Jimmy Dunn, Earl Wiggins, Leonard Coyne, ... I'll bet most of the folks at ST don't even know of them, in spite of the fact that their accomplishments stack up with the best of the Stonemasters'.
Earl solo Outer Limits at the age of 16 or 17. Jimmy did the first solo ascent of El Cap via a new route. Anyone with a sense of history know of Earl and Jimmy.
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2006 - 03:46am PT
|
Bump
The second BC route I tried was Stoned Oven. It's a long way down to the base of that route and it's like looking up Half Dome or something when you get there. At that time I was (still am actually) trying to figure out the right shoe strategy for that place. The plan that day was hike in the super-comfy Madrock Frenzys and break out the tight Muiras for the hard pitches. So, it's way huge looking and intimidating and in the nervous rush to get going I don't bother switching shoes for the first pitch, rated 5.10. That was a mistake, that pitch is not so easy. I wound up hanging and got an immediate case of snail-eye to which my partner readily concurred. If you're ever shamefacedly hiking up the Cruise gully, a good option is the route Midsummernight's Dream.
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2006 - 05:05am PT
|
Dude!! There ain't no room for 2 pairs of climbing shoes when all you've got is a rope, a rack, and the shirt on your back!
My second trip to the black saw Me caught in a nasty snow and rain storm all night at Fantasy Island. Sure wished I had a rain fly for the ledge at about 2am when I realise I was laying right in the path of a small waterfall.
The Weather gods gave us about a 3 hour reprieve the next morning to bail. When we hit the deck the sky opened up once again for the slog up the Cruise gully. I'll never forget climbing out the upper rappel in the heaviest rain of the storm. Reaching up for holds and having water streaming down my arms. Round 2...The Black 2..me wooped twice.
Both times were hell'a fun though....
josh
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2006 - 10:25am PT
|
JOsh,
Call JJ and drop your Vegas number on him, I'll give you a call. LEts get it on, but maybe a Wilson lap first?
Bob, didn't know Earl. Know a fellow named Doug Snively (Estes old school hardman) that worked and played with Earl for years. All my stories filter through him.
Over too much kind nuggage on the drive down one time I managed to scarf a 3lb bag of red licorice (solo), from Boulder, not the Gunni chapter of life. Atop the OW on the Cruise (again) natures call was too much...I BLASTED azz off that little stance with my partner taking photos the whole time (one won some contest at CLimbiing mag), at this exact moment some other friends poked their head around the corner from Scenic and it had to look like some third rate fetish porno shoot...me squatting, Ryan documentiing the moment...HEARTY laughter by all parties involved.
Ryan and I are sharing our first rope in the Black together on Escape Artist, leading the first 60 feet of the pitch after Vector Traverse the skies OPEN up and hail like MAD. So bad I barely downcliimb to belay to look for a rappel escape. No dice, we only had the one cord and the odd geometry (sp?) of that spot looked to not allow it. In good style we simuled to the top in a GNARLY hail storm...I mean GNARLY.
Good times...Keep the stories comin....
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2006 - 10:36am PT
|
Kevin, the Stoned Oven is a pretty stiff climb for a second outing. I'd have to say it's the hardest one that I've done.
As for the shoes - I've always hiked down in the shoes I've worn on the climb. Do not enjoy having ANY extra baggage when climbing out.
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2006 - 10:53am PT
|
I'm all about "less is more", but I've never descended in my rock shoes....yuck. I can only imagine this being "borderline" viable for N. Chasm routes, hiking to the Paintd Wall in Steath rubba would cripple me, and I'm already a borderline gimp.
Heard of flip-flop descents, but I always wear normal shoes, and just try to chinese downhill down those gullies.
There is an older thread that some of the boyz and I schmack talked pretty well on, just funny, nothing informative but the birth of the term..."inbred A5 soldier" by Robbie Williams....tooo f'n funny.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=182#msg100570
Edit-looking at the date, this was now 5 years ago....lmfao. Ryan is expecting his first, I'm missing five toes, Robbie is out chasing benjamins...we all STILL jones and plot as hard as ever to get down there. Where does the time go? Oddly, our stories haven't gotten any TALLER, but jeez, do I feel like the high school QB talkin bout the glory dayz....
Good thing I'm still livn this shizzle or I'd slit my wrists with envy.
|
|
golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2006 - 11:20am PT
|
When I was living in Kansas in the early 90's I used the Stoned Oven as a training climb for a One Day ascent of the Salathe Wall on El Cap. I knew that the Salathe on-site in a day was a big undertaking and that if I could get on some longish route in the Black that our chances on the Salathe would improve. It was not at all clear to me after completing both of those routes which one should have been the training for which...I may have been confused as to which one should have been the trainer (LOL)...Of course on the Stoned Oven we freed the whole thing and we french freed much of the Salathe and broke out aiders on the real hard pitches. Fact is, route finding, setting your own anchors and the adventure level felt harder to me on the Stoned Oven than it did on the Salathe in a Day. On the Salathe it is the length that is difficult but you can climb much of it on auto-pilot. hahaha
I have lost too many toe nails from getting off El Cap without descent shoes, in the Black I always took other shoes for the descent...
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2006 - 11:26am PT
|
Brent,
Will do. I'm head to Cali. for the weekend to surf. Will call next week.
Wilson lap sounds about right, I'm feeling strong!
josh
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2006 - 11:32am PT
|
When I did the Goss-Logan it was just my partner second route in the Black. I don't know what made me do the route ( we were going to do the Scenic Cruise) but we went for it anyway. We got a late start and started down the gully at 6:50 am. It was a beautiful late September day, not a cloud in the sky. I lead the first couple of pitches of the SC and then go left to G-L. My partner leads one pitch and then decide she had enough. Like an idiot, I say ok and kept forging upward. My partmer drinks most of our water and by pitch 10 I start to lose it. No escape from the sun. No water and five more pitches left. By pitch eleven I want to kill my partner for drinking most of the water but will do that dirty deed when we reach the rim. I need her to belay for now. It funny how you like someone at the start of a climb but hate them with a passion near the end of it. By three o'clock the sun goes left around the wall. I get revive and reach the upper pitches of the S-C. We top out at 6.20 pm and I flop on the rim like a beached whale. I belayer my partner up and then run to campground for water and beer. Life is good again and I don't kill my partner.
I done a million routes but these climbs seems to stand out as some of the best climbing and best times I have ever had.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2006 - 11:42am PT
|
Pretty funny thread Brent - I should have searched for that.
Now that I think about it, I always argued with my partners about the shoe thing, and generally, I was the only one wearing my climbing shoes down the gully. Seems like I've always done BC climbs with a very small pack - enough for water, a couple of light jackets, a little something to eat - and MAYBE room for one pair of shoes. A little stoicism never hurt anyone.
Bob. I'm with you, man. There have been years when I've only done 3 or 4 climbs and 2 of them have been in the Black. Most everything else seems like practice.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2006 - 12:09pm PT
|
I have always tried to emulate the style of Dunn, Wiggins, Webster, Becker..etc when climbing in the "Black".
It's not if I got up the route...but how I did it.
The place asks a little more out of you.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2006 - 12:53pm PT
|
I always wore Tevas for the descents, a little dicey on the feet, but a low profile package on the harness.
|
|
Fry Guy
Trad climber
Bondale, CO
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2006 - 01:18pm PT
|
The dog story was classic. In those days Brent and I would get in the truck in Gunny, indulge in our medicine, and drive like bats out of hell straight to the rim never saying one damn word to one another. Since then we laugh at how little we knew about each others personal lives after so many adventures. All we knew was that we could get up some sh#t together.
Anyways, not a word and all of the sudden the crazy lady literaly jumps in front of our truck. "Guess we better see what's up". That dog didn't really like being thrown from ledge to ledge. Then that bastard tried to claim our fame. Shit!
I definately hated Brent by the end of that day. I take the first block on the H-wall, Brent takes the second, I finish off the third to the belay below the massive roof and we're still moving pretty fast. Still lot's of time but we're running out of light. Brents lead and I must have hung there for 3-4 hours shivering. I doubt he had a single bite of food and probably little more water that day. He's bonked. Finally we make it to the 5.9 groove and he decides he's done. WHAT! Sh#t, my mind was very content with the fact that I was juggin to the top and now I gotta lead some runnout crap pitch.
"You've been here Brent, where does it go".
"Uh, up man, Uh, I don't really remember"
"Well isn't there supposed to be a bolt or something? Does it go up the wide chimney on the left or around into the choss groove on the right? "
"Uh yeah it should be up there somewhere. I don't know man just take us to the top."
"For F*&^%*&^$Ks sake, look out I gotta put on my shoes, you BIATCH!"
After crying my way up the sketch I choose the choss gully on the right. Then get rope drag and have to belay early off some choss blocks. Out of water, out of food, hallucinating, cold. We were full on yelling at each other on those last two pitches. No love there. As always though it was back to normal by the time we reached the campground popped a brewski and started scheemin on the future possibilities. When you get up something in the Black you definately start to think of the possibilities you have in less demanding areas.
Stratosphere has always been on my list too. We'll get there some day.
Brent won't talk about his solos because he's trying to forget. Those are the kind of days that make a man quit our sport and take up poker or chess or something. The Black is a lonely place with a partner! Scary things happen down there when your by yourself. It sends you home with a slightly out of this world look on your face that lasts for a few years. I remember his.
Ryan J.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2006 - 02:15pm PT
|
Great post Ryan. All you Black Canyon guys are my heroes. I'm prpbably being a bit presumptuous about actually doing Stratosfear - hell, I wasn't sure I could do it when I was climbing regularly in the Black in the early '90s. It's the kind of thing that keeps me going, though. I'm actually considering "working out" to achieve this goal - something I've never done before. Think I'll start off slow - 12 oz curls...
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2006 - 03:00am PT
|
I must fight to keep this important thread from being buried.
So, in the BC we all know it's important to go light in order to not epic and yet there is the reality of having to build anchors and at the same time naturally protect long and varied pitches. What kind of rack are most of you all generally running? One bonus I've noticed is that the stone seems to take nuts unusually well. I've been toying with the idea of just bringing a single set of cams and double set of nuts on relatively moderate routes. Last year I took the opportunity to pick the brain of Kent Wheeler quite a bit and he is a big advocate of the superlight rack modality there.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2006 - 09:35am PT
|
Kevin. This is also something it seems that I've always argued with my partners about - I've always been in the going lighter camp.
As far as a single set of cams with a double set of nuts - seems to me, that would work for a number of routes, including the Scenic Cruise. Routes I can think of where that would probably be inadequate include Air Voyage (we had an unbelievably big rack and needed it when I did this with George Lowe last year) and Stoned Oven.
If I had my druthers, on most routes I would double up in the 1-3 camalot size with a single set of cams in the smaller range, where nuts would be adequate. I might say that, having climbed for years before friends came on the scene, we used to make due on some very hard routes without cams.
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2006 - 03:12pm PT
|
So its nearly 23 years ago that Newberry gives me some bets for my recon.
I park near the top of SOB and solo the 5.6 onto the rock island so that I can look at the wall below my truck with binos.
While I'm sitting there about 120m away a young ranger pulls up by my truck. I watch him peering into it from various angles unconcerned as things are wrapped up tight. But he's also looking around for ME and even though close he never bothers to look in my direction.
He finally walks to the edge of the cliff and carefully peers over the edge intently. I can barely contain my laughter!
Then he does it.
The ultimate idiocy!
Cupping his hands to his mouth he calls down the vertical to overhanging 300m wall, "Hello???? Hello???"
As soon as he hears me laughing (and nearly wetting my pants at that!) he looks up and across at me and his expression immediately changes.
Apparently he's not happy.
I wonder if he's also the one that "rescued" the dog.
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2006 - 07:36pm PT
|
bump
Yea Grug, no doubt. And think how much better passive gear is these days. Maybe we've been lured into thinking we need cams to protect the small/medium range because they're so convenient/expensive. They're also bulky and heavier. Since having to build belays is an issue in the Black I think a good stategy is to be prepared to trim down the belay to equip the leader with the crucial shiite once they get going i.e. get a piece in. Also, how about the rope, rack, and camelback system, wherein there is no pack for the second to carry and all stay hydrated? Seems to work. So, what's the gear beta for Air Voyage then? Sorry to be so persistent on this thread but I value the info a lot. Thanks
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2006 - 11:43pm PT
|
I play it both ways...on the GREAT anti-gravity days, single set o cams, and some stoppers, 10 draws, cordalette, standard nalgene, running shoes, t-shirt.
On a geez I need to survive day..double set o cams to blue BD, 15 draws, lettte, nalgene, long sleeve shirt, running shoes.
My Air Voyage rack, Add 2 old purple BD 4s and an old green 5 cam..
The second rack is what we took on most routes with "long pitches"....unless we were unkillable.
Ryan left out his single cam belay on that next to last H-wall pitch, only time we've EVER raised our voices climbing.
Hey Ryan, I'm getting out tomorrow...kiss my ass pappy!
MUch love,
B
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 12:26am PT
|
My Air Voyage rack recommendation would have been quite a bit different if you asked me in 1992 vs now.
Back then, I went with a rack pretty much like Brent's. More recently, went with a rack that included lots of big stuff, and ended up aiding the crux. The old guy, more recent ascent did give me a perspective on just what fits and what doesn't in the crux offwidth. Here's the beta, the #6 camalot, almost entirely open, fits pretty much the whole way up. Above that, the crack takes up to #5 camalots.
Other than that pitch, we (George and I) ended up using 3 #4 camalots lower on the climb.
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2006 - 10:50am PT
|
Any of you guys done Shattered Glass in the Long Draw area? Looks sporty.
|
|
guest
climber
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 12:56am PT
|
Reading the old stories just leaves me shaking my head. Brent mentions the old Millionaire Drive crew from Boulder -- the first story I heard of some of those guys in the Black was from Bruce Andrews (RIP) when bouldering at Rod's (RIP, too) garage gym here in Estes Park. Brucey described going climbing with Pennings on a new route down there, starting with Mike's anemic rack and frying up bacon as it's like 8, 9, 10am. "Uh, Mikey, ya know, I usually bring a bit more gear and try to get an earlier start on these deals," Bruce said.
"Yeah, we'll be fine," Mike replied, grinning.
Brucey said Mike smiled the whole way while climbing like it mattered, routefinding and punching it through runout cruxes.
First time I went there, Scott DeCapio and I rode down with Jonny Copp and Dylan Taylor. Next morning Jonny's frying up bacon long after everyone else has left the campground; Scotty and I cast nervous looks at each other. Finally we finish the big breakfast, tie on the ropes, rack, etc, and it's immediately apparent how those guys pull sh#t off -- it's like two speeds, stop and go. Jonny starts running ("C'mon, you guys!"), and the whole way down the gully he & Dylan are hooting and hollering, simulrapping, laughing, running to the base. Infectious energy for sure, enough to override mine and Scotty's intimidation -- we had a great first day in the Black. Of course, Scotty and I did the walk of shame the next day, though.
About a year later Josh Wharton and I went there, our first time climbing together, and after the route he asked if I'd be into going to Pakistan -- ended up being the trip of a lifetime for me. Just before the trip, however, we were there again and simulclimbing the first pitch of a route, I'm above the crux and on 5.8-ish terrain, gotta simul with Josh on like 5.5. I don't have the right pro and I'm about 30 feet above a ledge, but Josh on 5.5? No worries. Suddenly I hear Josh yell and feel 60m of rope stretching, stretching, pulling... a hold broke and Josh sailed clean off. I held on for dear life (that ledge I'd slingshot into...) and somehow held him until he got back on. He busted up his ankle, we bailed, and I trembled with "what if" fear the whole walk-of-shame out.
Anyway, I'm rambling, but all the awesome stories on this thread remind me of a thought I had before I first went to the Black. I'd hear about these guys from Boulder (mostly the Millionaire Drive crew and their subsequent extension, like Jonny & Josh) firing awesome alpine rock lines in big, burly mountains -- Greenland, Pakistan, Alaska, Patagonia, etc. I've always loved alpinism, so I'd wonder, "OK, I know Boulder has great cragging, but how in the hell do these Boulder guys go to these places and do the most mind-blowing things?" When Scotty and I went to the Black that first time, though, where all those guys seemed to cut their teeth -- like so many hardmen before them -- we just nodded our heads, "Ohhhhh, I get it now."
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 01:56am PT
|
speaking of shattered glass, a story from the shack...
what up kigga? Got a little schmack down loop going here in RR, even putting the watch on stuff for the first time.
HOpe the haps are good out that way.
We ain't going nowhere. We ain't...
B
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2006 - 07:53pm PT
|
I just skimmed this thread, nice.
I've been down and up the Cruise Gully in something almost as light as a kung fu slipper. Billy WestBay's wife got them for me for just this purpose.
We climbed 5 pitches in 45 min, by simuling most of it, just so I could taste the nice initial 5.10 cracks before the rain pushed us off and back up the Cruise Gulley.
Per the Stonemasters, I'd bet most core Stonemasters knew of Dunn, Wiggins, Coyne, et al by way of the Yosemite connection.
Upthread, I didn't see any accounts of the Russian Arete.
Kor 5.9 right? It looks a bit loose and ridgy and fun.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 08:21am PT
|
Tarbuster. I guess I never doubted that most all the Stonemasters knew of the Springs boys. Come to thing of it, my original comment was kind of stupidly stated. All I really wanted to say was soenthing like "those Colorado Springs guys sure were good".
Back to Black Canyon stories. OK So I gotta come clean on my 2005 ascent of Air Voyage with George Lowe, which I mentioned in the George Lowe thread. The part I forgot was - We DID climb like old men - particularly me. Then there was the part where I was in charge of the water and only managed to get one water bottle in the pack - doh! I remember being real thirsty on the crux pitch. Thirsty, and tired.
So, it's getting late on a Fall day. My girlfriend and our two young girls are waiting back at camp. I had told them we'd top out around 4:00 - 4:30 (what was I thinking?). Here I am again, confronting the crux pitch of Air Voyage - for the third time.
The pitch that was my last lead, just about killed me. It's a beautiful pitch, the best one on the climb, I think. The last 10 feet include an offwidth section - just bigger than fist. I had to resort to some hang dogging (the shame) - George followed it as a lieback. In my 1990s ascents, I don't remember even slowing down through this section. I'm beginning to wonder if, perhaps, another Black Canyon climb - or any climb would have been a better choice for my first climb with George in several years.
So back to the crux pitch. I had led this in 1991 with Clean Dan and in and 1992 with Tom Dickey. With Clean Dan, it seems likely that I had at least one big cam that actually fit the crux (Dan was a big gearhead)- with Tom, we didn't have anything - maybe big bros that I didn't use. What I DID have back then was the ability to fire the thing - something I could have used a little more of in the more recent ascent. This time, I had big gear that included two #4.5s, a 5, and 6 camalot. After some feeble attempts, I started aiding. It was already looking like we'd be topping out after dark and I was pretty sure that I was not going to do it in good style.
I aided just up to the top of the 7-inch offwidth, where I could get two #4 camalots in for a belay. George led the still-wide 5.10 crack above (this is technically, the 8th Voyage finish). This pitch has a wild horizontal slither at its end - much harder but kind of like the Womb Fight pitch.
We end up topping out at 9:15. A funny side note is that my girlfriend was getting a bit nervous, of course, and not only had she talked with Ranger Brent, but also with Leonard Coyne - the first ascentionist. Leonard apparently had a project going on (in fact, we ran into his fixed ropes on the climb). So Leonard offers her (and me when I got up, presumeably), steaks and beer. I never did see Leonard that day. I figure he was just hitting on Elizabeth.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 10:51am PT
|
I heard, a year or two ago, of Leonard Coyne and someone else climbing with a guy that Leonard had just met, who had a fatal heart attack halfway up the Journey Home with them. Anyone know the details?
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 06:59pm PT
|
*bump*
no words on the russian arete from anyone?
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 07:08pm PT
|
Leonard was climbing in a party of three. The guy was out of shape, never climbed in Black and I think Leonard was guiding him up the route. He had a heart attack around the fourth pitch. They tied him off and I think they finished the route and removed the body the next day.
Weird...
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 08:42pm PT
|
Yea, how about that Russian Arete? Could be dicey. Hmm...
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 08:52pm PT
|
I may or may not have done the Russian Arete back in the early '90s. I do remember free-soloing a route that was basically one or two crack systems to the climber's right of the Russian Arete circa 2001. My overall impression is that the Russian Arete is not nearly as good as most of the North Chasm View Wall routes.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2006 - 10:31pm PT
|
I know a guy who did it and claims staying stoned kept his mind off the loose stuff. As a loper, it looks compelling.
|
|
Fry Guy
Trad climber
Bondale, CO
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 01:37am PT
|
Son of a bitch! I just wrote half this story and somehow erased it. SH#T!
Oh well try again. So the B-dog and I are down there for the first time since our accidents. Recap, I'd fallen down a mountain and turned my foot around backwards, he's frozen his toes off one foot. We're both fresh off the crutches so we're limpin like Snoop Dog on the prowl and in a hurry as we hobble down the SOB. We're totally siked to be crushin it again as we reach the river but by the time we get to Porcelian a few clouds appear and bring us back to reality. We realize that our objective though easy in the old days may not be so simple today. Besides I swear the route looked wet anyways;-) But there's no way in hell were puttin our heads between our legs and heading back up the SOB. After deep thought we realize we are also standing somewhere near the base of the Alpine Arete. B-dogs off and running before I've stopped staring at Porcelain and back at the clouds. "F*#K! This could get ugly but I guess this IS how you roll in the Black. We're climbing out of here rain or shine. Better get goin". I pick an easier looking crack system to the left of Brents chosen line. I make it to easy terrain first and sit down to put on my shoes and wait, and wait, and wait. "Should I poke my head over? No I don't want to know. Whew!" And we're on our way. Rope up for the first crux. A slightly run out 5.7 and I'm sketchin. "Suck it up biatch, you know how to do this!". I send that sh#t and we're simuclimbin to heaven. This is what we've needed for so long. I feel no pain as we run up the 5.0 terrain. "Man this is the sh#t we live for, we got this all the way.......What do you think right or left?" We take right and Brent takes the lead. Soon we've reached crux two, a stout runout and dirty 5.6+++ that's a testimate to Kors routefinding. If you do this section wrong it looks to be 5.11x dirt. Crazy pitch that we find a piton at the top of. "Oh yeah! We're on route. Up the obvious gully..... obviously" Unfortunately, after a bit, the gully just ends. We're stopped dead in our tracks at a monsterous headwall. I try up, right, down, around. "SHIIIIIIIIIIIT!" Only option we find is out left. Looks to be a tough headwall to enter another gully system that appears to lead to salvation. I give it a go and quickly resort to an aid move to get established. "Watch me! I have to do some moves to get into the next crack. SH#T!" I'm shitin, this isn't what I bargained for and it's definately NOT 5.6. Hatin on it all the way I finish off the pitch and the dog soon follows with congrats. Now we're in the apparantly "easy" gully that we'll simul to the top and be out of here.....so we thought. Brents lead and we're limpin more than ever. Easy terrain quickly gets harder and harder and harder but we keep truckin on. We're in the groove now baby. 5.9 loose blocks of death! Perfect Black with plenty of sticker bushes to boot. Lovin it, I take the sharp end after Brent runs it out to another headwall. "No way I'm aidin this one. I got it." Vertical wall......Up left...fade back right...through the roof....no pro worth a sh#t....every hold is a test......still no pro worth a sh#t........perfect crack.....LOVIN IT!!!!!.....still no pro but who gives a sh#t. "I'm flyin biaaatch. We own this!" Just like the old days. "We're back B-dog!" No need to stop and belay we know how to roll on this terrain. This is classic Black and the exact reason we've come here today. That pitch went on forever. I stopped 100ft of bushes below the summit and watched Brent fire up the final moves smilin like a clown riding a unicycle, juggling fire with a beautifull babe balanced on his chin. He loved it just as much as I did. You see the Black WILL give you the adventure your looking for at any level of difficulty you think you've chosen.
Days later as I'm pickin the stickers out of my skin and scratching the ivy swells I think back to the top of the dirt pitch where we found the pin. "Did that f*#kin Kor head out right to the buttress that appeared to lead to nowhere? Come to think of it there was a traverse ledge at that pin and when I tried to traverse right up higher and was stopped by the blank slab I saw an easy line of holds out there. Damn! Now that is some skilled route finding"
I bet Kor was feeling the Black the day he headed out there, out to the edge of nowhere and just kept going up. He knew he was crushin it. He knew how to lead the way......Don't worry Kor. We'll keep following you......and maybe someday we learn to traverse right...
|
|
Fry Guy
Trad climber
Bondale, CO
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 01:44am PT
|
How do I post a photo?
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 09:45am PT
|
Fry Guy. First go to www.photobucket.com (other places will also work)- start an account (for free). Upload the images from your personal computer to the photobucket site. Then see the following supertopo link about referencing your individual images within a post:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum_help.html (this is the help link that you would see when you are posting).
Kevin. You had earlier mentioned wanting beta on Shattered Glass. I don't know about that one (although, frankly, it doesn't look that good). Might I suggest another Long Draw route, the Great White Wall? I know some people who think that this is pretty chossy, but I remember enjoying it greatly.
As recently as the early '90s, topos for these climbs were hard to come by. I ran into Jim Nigro in 1991 or 1992 one night at camp. He drew up a topo for me and my buddy Clare of the Great White Wall - from memory when he did it 4 years earlier. Personally, I found that to be amazing. If I don't write it down within a few days, I might as well not have done a climb. Anyhow, we did the climb the next day. It turned out that we did get lost for a bit early on, but we found our way. I love the adventures.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 09:58am PT
|
Wait a minute, Grug.
So you soloed a route right of Kor's arete?
Must've been onsight?
'Sounds hhmmm, adventurous?
FryGuy calls his route Alpine Arete, which I assume to mean Kor's arete, but Kor's arete is 5.9, not 5.6. I gather he means predominately 5.6? Kor's is rather more an Alpine Looking Arete. I vaguely recall that as a second name. Minor clarification please...
FryGuy: email me today with your phone number, if you have access to a computer during the day and I'll talk you through some of the photo posting details.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 10:15am PT
|
Tarbuster - the free-solo wasn't a big deal. It was done more to avoid hiking out the SOB. So, we should do a route together in the Black, Tar! Maybe you're that guy I'm looking for to do Stratosfear with!
|
|
Fry Guy
Trad climber
Bondale, CO
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 10:34am PT
|
Tarbuster - Robbie calls the route we did "Alpine Route-5.6" in his guidebook. He states that there is little possibility of the route actually being 5.6 but I would have to disagree. I think it could stay 5.6 if followed correctly. I'm not sure if this is Kors Arete. It's located just to the right of Porcelain Arete in an area Robbie refers to as the Alpine Aretes. Maybe someone else has more clarification.
Grug said he soloed next to Russian Arete. Are you saying the Russian is Kors Arete? Sh#t their all Kors aretes:-)
Thanks for the info on adding a photo. I should be able to figure it out from here. I'll post a few soon.
|
|
Fry Guy
Trad climber
Bondale, CO
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 11:19am PT
|
Questionable photo shoot. This guy should be arrested. Don't do this anymore kids!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 11:37am PT
|
That's a good start Fry!
(600high by 800 wide is a good rule of thumb. I like to size my photos no taller than 570 and no wider than 770)
More Please!
cheers,
Tarbousier
|
|
Fry Guy
Trad climber
Bondale, CO
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 12:13pm PT
|
Who likes stickers?
Off route on the Alpine route.
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 01:41pm PT
|
That story gave me a hard-on. If someone had happend upon us on the hike out they would have sworn something horrible had happened that day we were both limpin so badly. I've got that smile back Ry, you should come do some thug sh#t with me out here...
That top photo is the result of 3lbs of licorice...and an OZ of CO's finest.
Who cares what the grade was, or what the route was, that day was sick!
"Robbie's guidebook calls it...", like that means shizzle....lol.
Luv ya Robbie, come party wit me.
A NIGRO SHOUTOUT!!!!!! Everyone send some good Jah Jim's way, tuff season for a hard mofo.
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 08:17pm PT
|
I think this thread is just starting to hit its stride. It must not be burried beneath discussions of war-mongering, sentimentality, or trigger-bar specifications! The Black Canyon is rad!
I will take your reccomendation of the Great White Wall to heart Grug. Someone else said the same. Also, Stratosphere is on my all-time to do list so if you are feeling ropegunnish...
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 08:39pm PT
|
Also, BrentA, an oz.? Really?
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 08:43pm PT
|
He lies Kev, let's raid what we know to be left of his stash...
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2006 - 09:53pm PT
|
My worst bivouac took place in fine weather, with all the right gear, at the bottom of the Black Canyon. Tom and I had scrambled and rapped down Chillumstone Gully, and set up camp by the river. Our plan was to find and climb the Kor-Culp route on South Chasm View Wall the next day. We had no topo or route description, only an impressionistic sketch by Bob Culp indicating a large ramp-like feature that we should somehow connect with.
After dining on cheese and salami I crawled into my half-bag, fell asleep and went straight to hell. Madness and pain. Dozens of voices spoke to me at once, but I could not make out what they said. The darkness around our campsite grew orange-colored, whether my eyes were open or closed. I was no longer asleep but could not wake up. I could barely move my hands through the heavy orange air. Muscles and joints all hurt terribly. No position gave relief. I did not understand what was happening to me, and could not describe it to Tom. The night seemed endless.
Morning light brought weak clarity. I knew that I was sick, that we were at the bottom of the Black Canyon, and we had to climb out although I could barely sit up. Tom took most of our gear and led back up the gully. I followed at the slowest possible pace, lying down on the talus whenever black spots swirled around. The crux was a fifth-class section past the huge Chillumstone. I belayed and then climbed with no strength, feeling almost a ghost. Wasted, we topped out in mid-afternoon.
On the long drive back to Boulder, we stopped for coffee at a cowboy cafe. Some locals tried to pick a fight because they took us for dirty hippies. Dirty we were, and I looked like the strung-out addict you don't want in your town.
I spent the next days in bed, while tick fever ran its course.
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2006 - 01:55am PT
|
Kev,
No, I didn't personally consume the OZ myself...but we scored in Boulder, and its about 7 hours (drivin slow) to the N. Rim. Four of us in the truck, Ry and I in the back (witht the bag, and the licorice), I leave the math and conjecture to the viewing audience.
I remember a pitch on the Great White Wall being exactly what I started climbing in the Black for...RP's and thinish (probably only 5.9) climbing. Another thumbs up route in the Black. My partner is a heavy set local Gunni boy, and played fullback in college, he went about 215 at the time. He is the only partner in all my years of climbng that I created indepenant and equalized upward pull anchors for in the Black. He whiipped off that hard pitch like a MILLION times.
Same partner, different outiing....Colorado Welcome Party. First pitch is the beef, and I've forgotten my shoes. Kruthaupt lends me his (11 1/2 to my usual 8 1/2) and I'm trying to fight my way through the tough stuff, winding up down climbing and eventually bailing. He charges up the same pitch and fuqing hucks without fear about 6 times before he bails too. Big falls!
You can't teach tuff.
Keep it comin, I've got more stories, but I love everyone else's way better.
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2006 - 08:34am PT
|
Still though, Brent.
I'm starting to get the impression that the Black is a "traditional" climbing area. I like it even more, especially in the abstract.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
|
Bump. (I just wanted to finally do that).
For the record, this thread STILL does not have a Stratosfear story...
Or how about a Hallucinagen Wall story? I KNOW there's
LOT's of folks who have done that.
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2006 - 09:25pm PT
|
Ryan and I's story of one cam belay's and arguing was on the H-wall.
That Stephan kid from Boulder that put it down in a day lurks here?
Me thinks.
|
|
Fry Guy
Trad climber
Bondale, CO
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2006 - 11:22pm PT
|
Is this "traditional" or just part of the OZ?
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2006 - 11:32am PT
|
The devil weed! It just wouldn't be a trip to the black without those little weeklong reminders.
josh
|
|
Leroy
climber
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 06:45am PT
|
Black Canyon?????Who goes there for fun ?I´ll be summering on the Black Sea.
|
|
Leroy
climber
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 06:51am PT
|
OK. My Stratosfear story.Went there.Declared it a pile.Went bouldering at Crested Butte.Quite uneventful really.
|
|
Leroy
climber
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 06:54am PT
|
I liked the bit about the little girl climbing with her dad.But I try to avoid families at the crags.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2006 - 07:13am PT
|
Jeez. Here I am at 5:00AM TRYING to make up a little work and having to defend my favorite climbing area from some ex-patriot top roper.
First of all, about the women (so, I read this into your first post about the Black Sea). Uh..., guess you're right, in the Black Canyon there are none or you bring your own. So touche on that point. How ARE those Black Sea women?
Secondly - ah, the hell with it. Leroy, you and I have always had about as different a perspective on what makes for a good climbing day as can be. I'm ALL about the lead and the boldness factor (and my crappy bouldering skills attest to it). You're all about the individual, technical moves. I guess I'm glad there's room in the climbing world for both.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2006 - 09:23am PT
|
Kevin and Tarbuster. See you at the Black, 2nd weekend in May. Look for some folks who like like this.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2006 - 12:03pm PT
|
uh...I'm the one on the left.
|
|
Leroy
climber
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 12:13pm PT
|
What are you talking about Greg? we´ve had some of our most satisfying climbing days TOGETHER.I just like to bump your thread back to the top.Where are all the clean Dan photos?
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2006 - 12:41pm PT
|
Leroy. Gibson has all of Dan's slides, except for one small batch I already digitized. I haven't even looked at the Black Canyon slides yet (at least, not in years). There are a bunch -including those from our Air Voyage and the Stoned Oven ascents.
The problem is with getting together with Gibson. You know Leroy, we really should do Stratosfear together.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 12:53pm PT
|
When we did Astro Dog we thought we might be the oldest pair (47 & 52) to climb the route. Richard is a cancer survivor. I lead the first crux (11+) pitch...break off a hold and pitch 25 feet and then jump back on and continue up to the two-boulder-bivy were we had some water stashed. We are making good time, so we linger at this beautiful spot in this beautiful, wild canyon. Richard leads the next pitch and then I take the sandbag 5.10+ flare crack pitch. Richard wants to lead the crux pitch so we change rotation.
Getting to the crux pitch the ropes get tangled together and we spend a half-hour un-doing the mess. Richard grab the rack and then proceeds to fire the crux pitch on sight. Little-f*#ker. Must be the chemo/drugs. I try and follow in the same style but no luck...I peel off after the crux and get let down to the ledge. All the gear on the crux section is out so I start to feel some pressure...nothing grab if needed. My next attempt go better and we are now past the beef of the route and we go in cruise control. I give Richard a big smile and he returns the gesture.
My mind wanders back to when Richard told me he had cancer, what he had to go through, his depression, my depression and my own self-interest.. if we ever climb together like we used too.
Amazing what some people (like Richard) can do when they put their mind to it.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2006 - 01:42pm PT
|
Bob. How does Astrodog stack up with some of the other classics in the Black. I went on a trip with George Lowe and Henry Lester (again, back in the early '90s). They did the thing and both said (essentially) that they hated it. I gotta say, the adjacent Flakes route was stellar.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 02:07pm PT
|
I think Astro-Dog is a classic. I also think the crux pitch is way hard (12a). The Flakes is another great route...expect for that god awful chimmey pitch.
Some photo's:
Vector Traverse
High on the Scenic Cruise
Journey Home
North Rim Campground...Richard, Jim Donni, one of Donni's many old flames and Greg.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 04:31pm PT
|
Does anyone know about the ridge zardoz refers to here? It looks really cool, except for the deproach.
"Holy sh*t that photo of the knife ridge to the right of the white helmeted climber is wonderful."
|
|
Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 04:40pm PT
|
Here's a story from this last weekend, almost a Stratosfear story...
-------------------------------------------------
On the pot holed dirt roads leading into the north rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, many horses dot the grid-maze of ranches overlooking the west elk mountain range. Entering the shadowed depths of the Black is like stepping onto one of these untamed stallions. Looking into the feral eyes of both, one discovers whether or not they are a “real cowboy”.
We drove in under a sky that looked like bullet holes through a chalkboard, the stars as crisp as I had ever seen. Conversation rolled from our family life, to girls, music tastes and eventually, tomorrow’s agenda. My partner, Jonny Copp nonchalantly attempted to talk me into “Stratosfear”, a 29 pitch X-rated mystery on the Painted Wall, as if I hadn’t heard of it. I remember reading Derek Hersey’s account of it in an old Rock & Ice. In my mind, his harrowing tale renamed the issue “Choss & Spice”. Mental note one: Hersey thought Stratosfear was scary.
It would be only my second route in the canyon and our first time climbing together. “Sounds cool”, I lied through my chattering teeth. “Of course” Jonny continued, “We could always do a first ascent instead”. Acting like I was thinking it over, I stared out the window at the stars, and then replied “If I am going to climb something big and scary, might as well be a new line.” It was agreed, and we racked up in the morning after Jonny prepared a gladiators breakfast.
We approached down the winding SOB gulley, our objective the west face of Gothic Pillar, via a line he had spied a couple seasons ago. My excitement heightened on the approach as Jonny talked of “big roofs” and three large daggers of pegmatite striking through the line. After 300 feet of 5th class scrambling and traversing, we finally cliffed out and had to rappel in to the notch below the face, tying off small blocks and meager saplings. On the second rap, a titanic block cut loose and steamrolled down the gulley, hitting the lip, catching air for a brief moment, then continued out of sight, and barreled into the river. I imagine the crew of sleeping fishermen we had stealthily tiptoed past in the morning were certainly thankful to us for this exploding alarm clock. Once at the base we looked up and realized that the gulley leading directly to it’s base was shorter and probably as casual as the drive in. Mental note two: the quickest path between two points usually IS a straight line.
We gazed at the looming roofs above, as Jonny pointed out the highlights. I washed off my layer of “Ivy Block” lotion, and promptly rinsed with an ivy cleanser. I was not playing games with this gnarly, viscous vine, for if infected, I would shut down in hours, my eyes and ears swollen tight. We started up a low angle buttress that quickly kicked into a thin, precarious slab, and dropped us at the base of the first of what were to be many splitter dihedrals. I hid under a bulge as Jonny slid past a teetering tower of blocks as tall as he was.
The next lead was mine- the first and the most prominent roof. I entered the hollowed chamber beneath and looked out the roof, noticing the sky and ground had disappeared. I no longer could tell which way was up, only “out”. I was inside a granite box, as the gulley we were climbing above was so narrow– barely a few hundred feet to the wall on the west side. I reached out for the first jam and it was solid, deep hands. Perfect. Pulling the lip 12 feet later was a desperate huffing and puffing affair, as I trembled and fumbled with every piece of gear I wedged into the scaly, bone white pegmatite. My confidence grew as I continued on the flaring thin hands corner above, particles of rock granola-like crunching and releasing beneath my rubber soles.
As I reached a good stance for an anchor I glanced over my shoulder to the inner canyon. The sky had turned black as the horses I saw on the way in; the wind had reared an ugly head, and there was an ominous rumble growling on the horizon. Jonny arrived and we quickly escaped our line, traversing and simul-climbing a few hundred feet right, eventually climbing over Kor’s route and joining the line “Baroque Down Palace”. We escaped the rim via the gulley on the back side of the tower, narrowly missing the storm, sprinting to the car amidst thunder and laughing. We awoke the next morning to a “White Black”, a layer of snow blanketing the dark gash in the earth.
Jonny headed north to Alaska, and I headed home across Kansas, but we both promised to return at our next opportunity. Our next opportunity wasn’t until two years later, although the Gothic was often on my mind. I had still not climbed in the Black other than the few pitches of this new line and The Scenic Cruise, however the scrappy riverside limestone in my home state of Missouri was the perfect training ground for ground up ascents in the “Dark Ditch”.
The weather was reported to be perfect this time. We got a late start as we helped a friend get in position to photograph. Racing down the direct gully, we found it to be a casual, easy approach to the face- 45 minutes, although requiring a few matrix-style ninja moves by me to avoid the robust spring ivy (Jonny is not allergic). We made quick work of the lower section of the route, marveling at the sustained quality and beauty of the line. The roof went much more smoothly this time for me, my confidence in the pegmatite cracks confirmed as I entered a zen like trance in the granite box.
At the next belay, I noticed a strange white dusting collecting in my lap, like small shooting stars, coming from the roofs above. I pretended not to notice the incoming snow, hoping that maybe we could slide by without the weather knowing we were there. Jonny struggled with a “cruxy roof magic trick” above, down climbing to an alcove as he figured out the moves. After a few attempts, I pondered “Umm, Jonny? Is the gear good?” I tried to sound relaxed. “Yeah” he replied, but I wasn’t sure I believed him. “Good” is a fairly relative term. “Go for it then. We gotta move, bro.” Jonny nodded, smiled his cheshire cat smile, and said “thanks”, then busted through the wild pegmatite roof with a small grunt.
I followed the pitch admiring various sections of offwidth, perfect hands, a clean slab, and eventually the broken roof, through rock that looked like it had been burning in a fire for the past hundred years, scalloped and fire red. If the Black is an untamed, wild horse, Jonny is surely one if it’s finest veteran wranglers. When I asked how many first ascents he had in the canyon, he lost count somewhere around a dozen.
We turned the engines on after the roofs, and sped up the remaining 700 feet of perfect, highly featured rock, connecting clean faces, deep cracks, and sharp dihedrals. The white stuff came and went, and we summited in a heavenly orange and violet sunset glow, down-climbed to the notch, up to the rim, and ran back to camp.
On our first attempt, I had just returned from Rome, seeing Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel painting for the first time. Inspired by the ceilings on the route, we titled our own masterpiece “Sistine Reality” (IV 5.11+ [11 pitches, 5.8R, 5.10R, 5.11b, 5.11+, 5.11, 5.10R, 5.10+, 5.8, 5.10-, 5.6, 5.6 to rim, no bolts, no pins, no lasso’s, no big whoop]
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2006 - 07:08pm PT
|
Damn! Great story PF! Sound's like a route to do. Is there a topo available?
|
|
Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2006 - 09:00pm PT
|
thanks grug.
check your email for the topo.
PF
|
|
golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2006 - 12:17am PT
|
most excellent story jer
|
|
lcoyne
Big Wall climber
Byron Bay, Australia
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2006 - 11:34am PT
|
Wait a minute Grug. Your girl friend stops me as I'm walking to a barbeque, asks if I would go look over the top of AV for you guys, as it was dusk/dark and she and the rest of your group were concernend w your welfare. I went to the various vantage points, determined that you were either above the offwidth (which wsa the case), or on the ground, tell her I reckon your probably 1 or 2 pitches from the top and not to worry, then calm down a somewhat more concerned kid in your group and invite you all to the barbie. If that constitutes "hitting" I'd better go back to dating school. :')
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2006 - 11:59am PT
|
Ah Jeez. Nothin' like a pesky eye witness to mess up a good yarn. Sorry Leonard. I don't know you, but I've heard some things... I was hoping, in my small way, to add to the legend.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2006 - 12:02pm PT
|
Leonard... Bob D here. What are you up too? Long time no see. Hope all is well? Drop me a line when you get back in the area.
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2006 - 10:59pm PT
|
Mr. Coyne,
Since you stopped in I thought maybe I'd give you the opportunity to clear the air about a certain free "project" of "yours" on North Chasm view. Care to share?
josh
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2006 - 11:17pm PT
|
THIS IS THE BEST THREAD EVER!!!!!
Jonny is the m'F'n MAN!!!! Many times when I'm strung out I honestly laugh and say to myself..."what would JC do?"
I ain't talkin about Jesus either. I was tied to him the day/night I got frostbite, he is the finest, most solid and natural climber I have ever had the chance to rope too...and a hell of a great bro.
The answer is always the same..."GO UP!"
PF- what a tale brotha, thanks for sharing.
Here is a link to a story I wrote years ago, about an adventure that happened even longer ago. If you haven't read it, maybe it will kill a couple minutes...
http://www.bigwall.com/whitedvl.html
Keep it coming...when was the last time you got to talk to people sharing this much love about a place...you just don't find that, the Black is THAT special.
One love,
Brent
|
|
Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2006 - 11:31pm PT
|
Killer story Brent...
But I have to admit...I've read it before...
I've got the Black bug bad.
WWJCD?
GO UP!
-PF (another JC)
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2006 - 09:21am PT
|
Just read your story Brent - Wow, makes all of my one-day adventures in the Black seem like tennis outings. Let's see, I'd have to resort telling a divorce story or two for a real chilling thriller.
I'll bet the esteemed Mr. Coyne has a story or two...
|
|
lcoyne
Big Wall climber
Byron Bay, Australia
|
|
Bob D,
Good to hear from you. Pop me an email on lcoyne11@hotmail.com & perhaps we can hook up. When did you and Richard (I assume Aschert) do AstroDog? Recently? That's cool. Where are u living? I've been climbing in the Black this season a bit. Did Trilogy which is really good and well protected except for the first pitch which is just a little scary. Recommended though.
Josh, you were asking about a project (I'm assuming recent psst project, ergo, 827 Go!, which is a free variant to Air City). Your query was a bit vague, could you elaborate?
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
|
|
So what does TNT mean when he calls the Black
"The Wonder Bread of climbing areas"
in RocknRoad?
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
|
|
Builds strong bodies 12 ways?
By the way, when I was a tyke it built strong bodies 8 ways.
I never got the answer on that one, I guess more supplements.
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
How about the Moveablestonedvoyage? Is that considered way-homo?
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
Leonard...glad to hear that all is well and you are in the area. I'll drop you a line via e-mail. Richard and I did Astro-Dog last June.
Richard is doing well (had cancer) and climbing quite well.
I am living in Louisville and do have a fair amount of free time (that could change)right now.
Love to hook-up with you.
Always wanted to do Trilogy but heard it is way runout.
Later, Bob
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
I climbed the Moveable Feast...Good down low, bushy up high. Cool downward traverse.
Im a homo though. Why can't I quit you Black Canyon?
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
|
|
I climbed the MSV, and I'm pretty straight. I think BobD has as well, although from what I hear the guy will stick his bit into just about anything :)
wink nudge, Bob, ease up
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
The MF is a pretty good route for the first half and then becomes a gully climb through bushes and somewhat loose rock.
The MSO is a much better route with a great climbing on the upper section of the SO to end the route.
Finding the start of the route is somewhat of problem and a number of climbers have gotten lost.
Rob...I have been known to drill a bolt or two on new sport routes.
I think it's a sickness I have and it seems to get worst with age. LOL
Any of you folks climbed at Escalante Canyon near Grand Junction??
Great spot without the Indian Creek madness.
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
Its like training wheels for Indian Creek, or college kids that can't round up enuff cams.
Climbs a bit spread out?
Jim Nigro owned that place before I knew my ABC's
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
A Coyne Classic...Goss-Logan. On the runout pitch.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2006 - 03:02pm PT
|
After re-reading a couple of my earlier posts, I feel that I have done a bit of a disservice to Leonard. I should have stated what a great help he was to my girlfriend and daughter on that day George and I topped out in the dark. The fact is, I only vaguely remembered what Elizabeth told me about Leonard’s help that night. I didn’t even realize that he had gone to the edge to determine where we were. What I remember most is that Brent the ranger was having a barbecue that night, and that I was expecting and looking forward to seeing Leonard at the barbecue (as well as drinking all the beer that I could get my hands on). As it turns out, I had to drive George that night to the Crawford airport (he had flown in on Friday night). We stopped at the barbecue, but it was pretty much wrapping up, and only Brent and a couple of other guys were left.
BTW, great pic of Goss-Logan, Bob.
|
|
lcoyne
Big Wall climber
Byron Bay, Australia
|
|
Greg, no worries mate. I took no umbrage, just didn't want you to think I'd be hitting on your girl while you were down on the Chasm in the dark. We should catch up and do some climbs in the Black either this spring or fall.
Cheers, LC
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
Leonard,
I'm being intentionally vague. What I've heard is quite inflamatory, especially for a place like the Black, and also for a climber of your stature.
It does involve the route you've mentioned specifically "variations" invloving other route's.
I believe you know to what I am refering, and I'm not going to say anymore...I was/am trying to give you the opportunity to clear the air...should YOU want to.
...and Brent thanks for the bad ass day the other day, a better partner I'd be hard pressed to find.
josh
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
Josh wrote: I believe you know to what I am refering, and I'm not going to say anymore...I was/am trying to give you the opportunity to clear the air...should YOU want to.
...and Brent thanks for the bad ass day the other day, a better partner I'd be hard pressed to find.
josh
I don't think Leonard has to answer to anyone... and of all places on a internet forum.
This is a good thread and I would hate to see it turn into some fecking-RC.Com-flamefest.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2006 - 10:40am PT
|
Leonard - I look forward to climbing with you in the Black sometime in the fall. My shoulder should be entirely healed by then (turns out, my last Air Voayage adventure was done with a big tear in my rotator cuff). I'll be coming out a couple of times in the spring just to hang out and hike down into the canyon.
And...what Bob said. Let's keep this all about love for the Black.
|
|
lcoyne
Big Wall climber
Byron Bay, Australia
|
|
Sounds great Greg, fall will work better for me as well. Mate, that OW on AV would certainly take a chronic arm problem and make it acute! My email is lcoyne11@hotmail.com, let's stay in touch and coord. schedule's for the fall (no pun intended).
Josh, if you have question(s)to ask someone, ask. I would have to assume that you are under the impression that I am privy to the uncleared air you refer to you. I am not. In deference to Greg's (and Bob's) request you can email me.
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
Yeah, the Black Canyon thread lives ON!!
Flamey, dude thanks for droppin my shizzle by the gym. I got drunk and passed out by a buddies pool the next day...I'm so light duty like that.
Not a bad first date, next time I won't wear the high heels...
B
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
Not going to let this thread die so easy. Just got back from guiding in the Colorado Springs area and got together with Jimmy Dunn, his wife Helen and almost one year old baby boy. Jimmy is doing great and seems to be quite happy. Doing a lot mining in AZ and Mexico.
I ask him about his and Earl's ascent of the Cruise. Earl and him when to do the second ascent of this route that was rated 5.10 A5.
They dropped down in the canyon, one rack, one rope, two peanut butter and jelly sandwichs, two quarts of water and a small pack.
They topped out at 3pm with the first free ascent and Jimmy felt like they could have been quicker if they left the pack behind.
Total balls out on a big wall with no real knowledge of the route.
In my humble opinion...one of the greatest feats in US climbing.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
dunn is a riot.
he loves that "one water bottle' nothin'but me and my bro and up we go" thing. (so do i...)
the black is really his type of deal.
i always enjoy seeing him and hearing of his latest adventure, mining enterprise or whatever.
manic; yes. admirably enthusiatic, yes.
go jimmy.
(he once described with great glee some way runout bolt placement he managed, all twisted into some harrowing position, tap tapping away with like one hand or something, much like a walt shipley reportage...)
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
Tar...you should hear him tell his story about the first solo of a FA on El Cap...amazing.
Jimmy never does the miminal. He once told he climbed Whimical Dreams (5.11a/b crack) about 30 times in a day. I shot back...why. He just looked at me kinda strange.
He really is an American climbing legend.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
ya man,
cosmos right?
gordie schmael memorial traverse or something.
and yes, his love of the mega lap.
still does that stuff.
i run into him about once every 5 years...
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
May 11, 2006 - 02:52pm PT
|
*bump*
(my foot slipped)
hey bob D,
grug and i head out tomorrow for dah black...
check email.
anyone else?
north rim.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
May 11, 2006 - 03:10pm PT
|
Love to go tar...but it's Mother's Day weekend. I like being married so I'll stay around for the weekend. Going Tuesday, taking a friend on the Southern Arete.
Hope you guys have fun...be safe.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
|
|
|
May 11, 2006 - 03:12pm PT
|
Wish I could say 'yes'. No pard, and I'm burning my hall pass on a trip to the desert next week.
Whipped in the Ville
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
May 12, 2006 - 05:12pm PT
|
Bob and others...Jeff and I will be on the north rim all next week(starting tuesday night) I'll bring the beer!!!
On another note I climbed with Jim Newberry in RR a couple of weeks ago. Super cool guy.
josh
|
|
bogata
Sport climber
park city, ut
|
|
|
May 12, 2006 - 11:12pm PT
|
We're slated to roll in Monday and hang till Sat. Hoping to tick some trade routes.
|
|
lcoyne
Big Wall climber
Byron Bay, Australia
|
|
|
May 14, 2006 - 01:30pm PT
|
Hey Bob,
I'm pretty sure the Southern Arete (Painted Wall I assume you refer to)is closed until sometime in July.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
May 14, 2006 - 01:38pm PT
|
Jimmy Dunn -- Canyonlands 1974 / Garden of the Gods 1996
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
May 14, 2006 - 07:24pm PT
|
lookit' jimmy d on the right.
he's not intense.
nope.
nice portrait.
a sweet guy in fact.
|
|
johnny5
Big Wall climber
no mans land
|
|
|
May 14, 2006 - 07:45pm PT
|
How about Cameron Tague. Stories about what he did in the Black and still I don't think anyone has with his energy...
Peace Cameron
j5
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
May 14, 2006 - 08:12pm PT
|
hey johnny5-
good point -cameron t!
we need some younger blood to post up here.
otherwise, i know crusher probably has some good ones.
'jost got back from the black an hour ago.
-romped down the slide draw to meet grug and his buddy clare yesterday for some world class fishing sports action.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
May 14, 2006 - 10:15pm PT
|
Tar-told you the flyfishing is great down there. Big ass browns.
Jimmy...when he is wearing one would give you the shirt off his back. Great guy who has quit and started climbing again more than anyone I know.
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
May 15, 2006 - 12:39am PT
|
No Black action for me :( You guyz make me envious...
Took my GF up Dark Shadows today here in RR,Going to Zion tomorrow, and Yosemite Friday. Does that count?
Not even close...
Black is where its out.
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
May 15, 2006 - 01:09am PT
|
Brent....how did your chica like Dark Shadows??? Super cool that she's getting after it!!
Are we having a second date in RMNP this summer?
josh
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2006 - 02:32pm PT
|
Then there are the Black Canyon fish stories... world-class fishing at that. Here's a picture of my buddy Clare with a trout caught on his second cast (on the first cast he had used a too-light lure). This was taken near the Slide Draw, where Tarbuster, Clare, and I hiked down and hung out last weekend. Nobody else was down there.
Hiking out the Slide Draw felt every bit as hard as most of the climbs I have done in the Black.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
May 18, 2006 - 05:40pm PT
|
well, although not perhaps technically as hard as a vertical rock route grug, the hike out was a nice example of stout and continuous 2nd class, one of my forte. a good long work out style ascent with a nice view of the beer cooler from the summit!
watching clare make a toss over rapids and into a still pool, then immediately hooking a fish at the extension of his stroke - that was awsome.
every other time i turned around the guy was unhooking a fat brown and tossing it back in.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
May 18, 2006 - 06:46pm PT
|
Tar wrote: every other time i turned around the guy was unhooking a fat brown and tossing it back in.
That's because he is a bait/spinning butcher. LOL
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2006 - 09:56pm PT
|
Do I detect a little fly-fishing snobbery Bob?
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
May 18, 2006 - 10:35pm PT
|
Yup. i think i heard a frilly gauntlet hit the floor.
But, seeing that i couldn't get a fish with a hand grenade and a stout tug on a pond drain plug, i ain't electin' to pick it up!
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
May 18, 2006 - 10:43pm PT
|
Greg...flyfishing with dry flies is the hardest way not to catch fish.
It's not how many you catch...but how you catch them.
You fly-fish??
I fish Boulder Creek all the time, let's get out.
|
|
buzzman
Trad climber
Golden
|
|
|
May 19, 2006 - 11:18am PT
|
Dear MR Fly fisherman
True it is more difficult and expensive to fly fish, but in the Black even a 'better than thou' fly fisherman can catch a fish. I never fly fished until the age of 10, tied my own flies and caught fish with them at the age of 12.....BORING. You've inspired me to put my bamboo fly pole on the wall. Must be tough carrying those expensive Cabella waders down to the river with you.
it's not how many women you get, it's HOW you fool them, right? (try wearing grizzly hackle around your neck next time you're at the bar, it would be a great whip-finish to the thread, btw how many flies have you tied?)
-buzzman
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
May 19, 2006 - 11:51am PT
|
I'm pretty sure i've picked up chicks with grizz hackle around my neck. Exactly what order of catch, that's another matter.
Hey Bob D': any trip reports from mid-week down there?
I took a few shots, probably won't be developed for a while.
The more interesting item I was reminded of when looking across from the South Rim, were those Wiggins Cassidy routes on the Hooker Buttress. Cheap Shot and Dry Hard. I knew Katie pretty well, as she was my close neighbor for a number of years. (We climbed Crack Wars (Nuns/Priest area) together, among other things. Katie is pretty reserved with her reportage. The story I got years ago, not from Katie, was that Earl was on quite a roll with those two routes on Hooker, that he was leading on a very long single 9 mil, sometimes way out there with just a couple RP's between them.
I'm pretty sure I asked Katie about it and got a "Yeah, well, Earl..." I recall there was some simul climbing with that skinny rope, thin/minimal pro set up as well. (Not to sound naive about simul- done tons myself) Point being, It would be cool to hear of some repeats of those routes.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
May 19, 2006 - 12:11pm PT
|
Buzz...Calm down...I am only joking. Kind of. LOL
PS...I don't wear waders.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2006 - 12:41pm PT
|
Bob. For the most part, I don't fish, although I have been known to troll. Whenever i go down to the Gunnison in the Black, I just hang out and scope out routes. Thanks for the offer.
Tar. I got a topo from my buddy, Pike Howard, of a new route on the Hooker Buttress, Cheap Hooker (5.12). We were going to attempt the second ascent in 2003, but my shoulder was acting up and I had to lay off climbing. The route looks stellar.
|
|
bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
|
|
|
May 19, 2006 - 07:23pm PT
|
Tar...my partner bail out on me. Stuck in Boulder Canyon doing new routes. Did a couple of good ones. Looking for someone mid-week...next week.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
May 19, 2006 - 07:30pm PT
|
so it goes with partner bail out.
i'm out for next week.
toast.
thanks for asking.
cheers,
roy.
(i would make a joke about next year, mid year, but i need more hope and less sarcasm).
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
May 19, 2006 - 10:00pm PT
|
New Year's Day 2001? How much fun bailing off New route's is...
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
May 19, 2006 - 11:07pm PT
|
brent, you do not look happy there.
we understand.
anybody lead (besides grug) the 5.9 continuos offwidth pitch on the beginning of the flakes?
how tight is it?
knee for sure,
hip goes in?
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
May 20, 2006 - 06:33pm PT
|
Just got back from a great four day trip to the Black. I'm more convinced than ever that crag rules! Lots of old dads pulling hard. A highlight was the Russian Arete (too bad our plan didn't work out Tar, you were right about it being a good one). Can't wait to get back out there.
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
|
May 20, 2006 - 06:38pm PT
|
Just got home from 3 days in the dark ditch!! Got some hell'a good climbing done...finally didn't get my ass handed to me!! So much fun! Can't wait to go back....
Hey Fosburg....I didn't realise you were the guy I met....
josh
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
May 20, 2006 - 06:51pm PT
|
way to go boys,
kev -hope you left some loose stuff up there for me.
all in all, i bet the roosky arete wasn't even that loose.
i took a couple pics of it from the south rim.
everything's on old skewl film and the role aint shot up yet...
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
May 20, 2006 - 07:41pm PT
|
Josh, that's way funny. It was good to meet you guys and get inspired by your style.
Roy, you're right, that thing isn't really loose at all. Way steeper than it looks and just a flat-out classic line.
|
|
Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2006 - 10:20pm PT
|
Kevin. I take back what I said about the Russian Arete. I don't know what I was thinking dissin' any Black Canyon route. Any route finding issues?
|
|
BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
|
|
|
May 31, 2006 - 08:14am PT
|
check out climbing.com's hot flashes for some wicked blackedness...
crazy, just crazy
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
|
|
|
May 31, 2006 - 10:50am PT
|
Josh, were you climbing with Jeff B? Said he was heading down there a couple weeks ago.
|
|
flamer
Trad climber
denver
|
|
RR...Yep I was climbing with that old bastard. He's one of my favorite partners and a tremendous friend!
josh
|
|
bleedr
climber
robber's roost
|
|
i saw those guys signed up for "nose/tague" on the sign-out board this weekend and wondered what kind of madness was going down.
also saw another party signed up for a journey home linkup with another route, can't remember. cool to see people getting after it
managed to get up the scenic cruise after not climbing for a few months. what an incredible route.
edit: sorry, shoulda bumped the other thread.
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
|
May 17, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
|
One year bump.
|
|
o-man
Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
|
|
|
May 18, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
|
This thread is worthy of a bump!
I did Air Voyage with Peter Prandoni many years ago.
We really hadn't climbed anything on that wall past Goss Logan and were kind'a lost. We decided to just follow our noses until we found something that would coincide with various scribbled topos and descriptions we had gathered from friends.
I remember I was leading a moderate pitch when Peter yelled up to me," Guess what route we're on?"
I responded," Well?"
Peter yelled" Air Voyage!"
I yelled back, "I always wanted to do Air Voyage."
We were both seasoned in the Black and had a fairly good sized rack so we went for it.
I made two mistakes that made the climb harder than it had to be. One was that I didn't eat enough on the route. Second was I tried to double up the pitches in this off width chimney section and had trouble getting an adequate belay set up and that cost energy and time.
The rest of the climb went well. I remember some great crack climbing leading up to that real hard off width crack.
Peter lead the hard off width pitch and he just motored it. I was very happy to second it and know that I wouldn't have done as good if it had been my lead.
We made good time after the crux off width but it was getting pretty late when we got to the "Womb Crawl". Peter went out a ways on that horizontal chimney and turned back and left the rack with me and then he swiftly slithered across with no trouble at at all. We then hauled the rack across so I didn't have to grovel with it ether. I remember taking a second and looking down from the middle of that pitch and I believe that was the most exposure that I can remember in the Black even with the dwindling light.
When I got to the belay I just motored for the rim I can't remember how hard or long that pitch was all I know is that I didn't put in much gear and I didn't stop till I reached the rim I'm sure that we were simal- climbing quite a bit of it.
When I got close to the top I started hearing a voice yelling,"Is any one down there?" I yelled back,"Yeah,I'll be there in a minuet!"
When I topped out there was a guy in a ranger suit and he had a very excited look on his face. He told me that the rangers on other rim had spotted us with binoculars. He mentioned that we were in trouble because we hadn't signed in for the route.
All I could tell him was, "Man, we just did Air Voyage!" "What a route!" I was so stoked!
I found a large dead tree and tied off to it and started belaying as fast as I could. I wasn't able to keep up with Peter and talk to the ranger at the same time so the end of the rope came up and no one was tied into it. Now the ranger had a real puzzled look about him.
Just about that time Peter showed up solo with all that gear haphazardly draping from him.
Peter had untied from the rope after getting tangled in it when I was setting up the belay feeling that it was inhibiting his movement.
The Ranger was a really nice guy and he didn't give us a ticket. He was new to the north rim of the Black Canyon and very relieved at not to have to put together a rescue that night.
He then dropped by our camp later for a beer.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
May 18, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
|
Nice story! I had never heard of another account of climbing Air Voyage. I wonder if the ranger was Brent?
|
|
o-man
Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
|
|
|
May 18, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
|
I met Ranger Brent several times in the Black and remember some great stories that he told. One of those stories involved a former Mouse-ka-teer/beach blanket bingo star and a tandem bicycle.
The Park Ranger we met was a new fellow that had only recently taken the post on the north rim.
There is a lot of good material written by some of my all time heros in this thread and it's sequel.
Each post is worthy of review. They remind us that,Jimmy Newberry's line, "It's always desperate in The Black" is more often than not true.
I also think that grug's opening post of this thread (where he shared Brad Whites account of when he and Derek Hersey did Air Voyage)is real good.
He also mentioned in that post another old friend of mine Clean Dan Granduski.RIP Derek and Dan
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
|
This is from ALPINIST 37.
___
Namesake
Diagonal Will or Swallow Wall?
Phil Broscovak
I sensed the heat rising even before I could discern any brightening to the gloom. Tom Pulaski and I were perched on a ragged blob of pegmatite, more than halfway up a massive Black Canyon wall. It was the spring of 1978. I’d just survived my first unplanned bivy. Blood encrusted my rugby shirt from a stack of rocks that had collapsed the day before gashing my chest and breaking three ribs. We’d brought next to nothing—no helmets, no pins, no hammer, no bolt kit, no headlamps and no additional clothing. Throughout the long night, Tom kept me distracted from the pain and cold by doling out one raisin every hour, while regaling me with against-all-odds epics in which raisins were credited for the heroes’ survival. As dawn approached, the last raisin turned to a stringy pulp in my mouth. Between us all that remained was a single swallow of water. b
We’d reached this spot the previous day with sufficient time to top out, but no idea of where to go. Thus far, the most common words we’d exchanged were “ROCK!” and “On Belay, DON’T FALL!” Retreat down such terrain was not an option. Ahead, the wall presented two possibilities for the last 800 feet. To the left, the large dihedral system we’d been following rolled over into huge roofs that drooled with rotten fangs. To the right, a fractured overhang obscured what looked like endless unprotected pegmatite. Neither had much appeal. The stone was so loose we felt sure we were climbing a first ascent. It seemed better to wait for morning here, rather than risk a worse benighting in the unknown chaos above.
During the 1970s, the Black Canyon remained a mysterious realm, and its few climbers closely guarded any information. Tom and I had no idea that we were facing the same bleak choices that four others had already confronted. In 1967 Jim Logan and Wayne Goss had gone left, completing a fearsome route they named the Swallow Wall (V 5.7 A4) for the last sips of water they shared on their second day. Eleven years later, Bryan Becker and Ed Webster angled right to make the first free ascent of the wall by the line they called Diagonal Will (V 5.11+ X).
At sunrise, without a word, Tom also picked the right-hand line. It took his indescribable willpower to diagonal away from the terrifying but obvious route and to breach the overhang into the unseen vastness above. The next several pitches represented some of the most sublime terror I have ever encountered.
So what’s in a name (or two)? For reasons I still can’t explain, I’ve now done this route twice.
Both “Swallow Wall” and “Diagonal Will” seem like fitting descriptions of those experiences.
I credit raisins for my survival.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
|
I credit raisins for my survival.
Don't be so damn humble, Philo. I'm sure the presence of two Polaks had a lot to do with it!
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
|
LOL!
As Zappa said...
"Dumb all over a little ugly on the side"'
|
|
Sparky
Trad climber
vagabond movin on
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
|
Brent! Where you at?
|
|
steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
|
Never saw this thread before.
Just the thing to raise the spirits!
I talk with Jimmy Dunn often and just want you all to know he is alive and exudes good vibes. A Black legend!
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
|
^^^ Absolutely ^^^
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
|
WOW!
Thank you for the tales.
|
|
Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
|
Philo and Zappa Bump!
|
|
Johnny K.
climber
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
|
This is an amazing thread,thanks!
|
|
skywalker
climber
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
|
Ya know, this would make an interesting Alpinist Mountain profile...Robbie made a strong effort to capture the flavor there. The stories have always lived up to my own experiences there. Its not a mountain but rather a mountain in reverse. It is an intimidating but amazing ditch. A place I'm always thankful to be out of but crave the journey through.
Bump for the post!
S...
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
Its not a mountain but rather a mountain in reverse.
Well said.
"It's always Desperate in the BLACK!"!!!!!
-Jimmy Newberry
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
My only climbing goal this year following rotator cuff surgery a couple of weeks ago is to do a Black Canyon route.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
|
|
Surgery go well?
|
|
The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
|
|
I love the Black.
Journey Home with JP
Keeping it green on the Russian Arete
The first route I did in The Black was Scenic Cruise.
Everything was going fine. I did take a while
leading the crux pitch. Well it got dark and we
were still climbing. I got up into a 5.8ish crack
and started to get pumped trying to fish in a piece.
I tried to down climb to a rest and slipped. The
rope was behind my leg and I flipped upside-down.
My warm hat and headlamp fell off into the abyss.
I belayed my partner up and instead of a headlamp
all he had was A red single LED key-chain. That
wasn't going to get us to the top so we settled in
on a 6 inch wide ledge until the sun came up.
That was my first and only unplanned bivi until my
next vist....
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
Surgery seems to have gone well, Scuffy. The doctor says I should be playing the accordion again in no time.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
It's always something in the Black.
So, on Saturday, still not able to climb yet because of January shoulder surgery, I decided to do a little reconnaissance. I hope to do Atlantis some time in the near future. It's down Prisoner of Your Hairdoo Gully, certainly one of the more stangely named gullies in the Black. I'd never been down it and thought it would make for a nice little morning outing.
Going down was relatively uneventful, even though the gully makes the SOB and Cruise gullies seem like escalators. About 3/4 of the way down, you just can't avoid the poison ivy, although avoiding as much as you can factors big in the actual path you take. After scoping out Lost Cities, I headed down to the water and up canyon just a bit to study Atlantis.
Being down at the water in the Black Canyon is a pretty sensational experience, and that's exactly what I was after. But the god-awful return journey beckoned, so I set out back up, focused mainly on not dislodging big rocks and avoiding getting any part of my upper body in the poison ivy jungles. About a third of the way up, I dislodge a 3-ft-diameter boulder which wants to crush me but instead, after some deft footwork, merely bends the fingers of my left hand 180 degrees backwards. My whole hand subsequently puffs up to twice its normal size.
Realizing that I likely broke a finger or two, I remembered that I would have to reverse a little 40 foot rappel at about the midway point in the gully that I had "batmanned" down. Another 20 minutes of scrambling brings me to the rappel spot. Turns out, with a little work I was able to climb up with one hand a little to the left of the rappel. The rest of the hike out went without incident.
It's always something in the Black.
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
Ouch! So much for the accordion.
Heal up man. The River she calls.
|
|
o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
|
|
This is a bad ass thread!
It's about a bad ass place!
With real bad asses being bad ass!
BUMP
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
I'll say! It's badass just going to check out your route. It's amazing how, what looks like that little ribbon of a river from the rim, is so intense when you get down next to it.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
Not to mention dumb-asses being dumb-asses. Between taking 75-footers and catching 75 hundred pound boulders, my latter day Black Canyon experiences have been, um, great learning experiences.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
Stories, Black Canyon or otherwise, need closings, and since I already started one, I feel obligated to finish.
The good news...I never got poison ivy. The bad news, I broke a finger trying to divert that big rock. I'm not sure whether to feel happy or sad. The poison ivy thing is actually pretty impressive if you knew what I was up against.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Yosemite with an attitude, raw and not comfortized.
|
|
hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
|
|
I went for the first time a week and half ago, did La Visage (direct start) to the Hallucinogen Wall. It was one of the best big wall routes I have ever done. Nobody does it, which is a shame. It is full on and full value. Technical hard aid climbing with technical hard free climbing mixed in. It was amazing. It's 5.9 A3+ is a nice healthy sandbag (as we expected it to be).
=) loved it, can't wait to go back for some o' that awesome free climbing.
|
|
o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
|
|
|
May 10, 2012 - 01:38am PT
|
"It's 5.9 A3+ is a nice healthy sandbag "
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
|
May 10, 2012 - 09:37am PT
|
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
|
|
|
May 10, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
|
That's rough Grug! We just went down the POYH gully a couple days ago and it's pretty untamed. The p.i. is for real, and there's a shitload of unstable talus as I guess I don't have to tell you. At least you can wash off in the river. I suppose if coming down Long Draw was an option people would go that way- probably cliffs out along the river.
Atlantis is great and you should climb it. Feels like a 12-pitch Eldo route that tops out in the Turkey Rocks, as my partner said- not much crack climbing until you get to the topout. You're gonna need those fingers to be in good shape so best of luck healing up.
Rob, Leadville
|
|
hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
|
|
|
May 10, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
|
Philo, is that your topo? From what year? I know a few different (real good) climbers who have gone up on the dragon and come down with reports of some pretty serious pieces ofthe route missing... It's closed till the fall...
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
|
May 10, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
|
hoipolloi (dave?) why don't you just free the Dragon and take a look whether its worth aiding it? Route - rock = new variations over the same place. I'll pass, but I don't much big wall either. I'm wimpy..
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
May 10, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
|
So I WAS lying about the poison ivy-free being better than the broken finger bit. That finger's gonna set me back a few weeks, for sure. The second to last climb I was on was Lucille last August(failed attempt in spite of HUNDREDS of deep knee bends in the months preceeding). Sheesh, an ankle injury woulds qualify me for a Donini trifecta.
Thanks, Rob. God did not intend for these gullies to be walked OUT OF. I'm going on record as saying it's harder to go up 'em.
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
May 10, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
|
Thank you for the stories.
I am always impressed with your Black Canyon stories
---at a distance.
I am not going there to climb!
Maybe rafting & flyfishing down the river?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
May 10, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
|
Philo,
That topo is inspirational. I still have not done a Painted Wall route. THAT'S the one to do!
 Thanks, Fritz
|
|
hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
|
|
|
May 11, 2012 - 07:49am PT
|
Eeyonkee, go in and check out La Visage. I DO NOT think you will be dissapointed. THere isn't even any loose rock. I would say it's clean as El Cap. Bring two talon hooks... hahaha
Bob - yes this is Dave. Those are the friends I know have gone in there (to free it) and they couldn't. I think that is what caught my attention ^^ I hope to check it out in the Fall.
|
|
Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
|
|
|
May 11, 2012 - 07:58am PT
|
Grug, You are 100% correct. After spending TWO days wrestling bags,etc back up cruise gulley I have to agree that the gullies are one-way! Vowed that if it happened again I was leaving everything!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
May 11, 2012 - 08:36am PT
|
The Scenic Cruise is considerably better than any route in Yosemite of comparable length and grade.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
|
|
|
May 11, 2012 - 10:45am PT
|
The gauntlet is thrown! but he might be right.
The only comparable I can think of is the DNB, which actually isn't very much like the Scenic at all. Or, I suppose, the Steck-Salathe, like Kor said. The Scenic is a tad more elegant.
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
|
May 15, 2012 - 11:59am PT
|
I just read in Rock and Ice about the 3rd free ascent of the Hallucingen wall. There is a relevant discussion initiated by the first FA, Hansjorg Auer about this new party rapping in to stash gear instead of a ground up approach.
The thing that irked me though is that the article credits the original first ascent to Becker, Webster and Lella, with no mention of Jimmy Newberry, the keeper of the Canyon, who probably knows more of the nooks and crannies of that place than anyone alive....and, he knows it's "Desperate!".....kids:-|
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
BBST
|
|
o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
|
|
To bump this great thread along I thought I would share a piece that I put together a while back while I was recovering from a a nasty injury and I was very board and still under the influence of prescription pain meds.
I have thought that I should probably edit the piece but it is, what it is.
I tried to capture my feelings about the subject as best I could at the time
If you have time check it out.
http://rockerwaves.blogspot.com/2011/03/back-in-black.html
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
o-man, cool story
(I just kept wishing I could see the pics au naturel because it is such an awesome place)
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
I was most fortunate to climb Comic Relief/Direct start to Lightening Bolt Crack finish with the mighty Platinum Rob before he headed West and made a name for himself in Yosemite. He did some beautiful leading, connecting some pitches and of course crushed the Lightening Bolt crux . . . I did not onsight the crux. The lead he did on the "direct start" first pitch was even more impressive . . . it is awkward and technically stout.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2015 - 02:04pm PT
|
The Scenic Cruise is considerably better than any route in Yosemite of comparable length and grade.
Care to discuss? I happen to agree.
|
|
philo
climber
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2015 - 09:25pm PT
|
In my opinion the original Cruise route is superior to the Scenic Cruise variant.
An astounding wall by all accounts.
|
|
Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2017 - 01:51pm PT
|
OK, I know this is but one of several righteous Black Canyon threads here on the taco, and not even the most recent. That being said, this particular thread makes mention of so many of my bros and other significant climbing folk in my life, that I have to post. A most sincere thank you to the folks who posted stories or mentions of Billy Westbay, Jimmy Dunn, Jim Nigro, Jimmy Newberry, Phil Broscovak, and Tom Pulaski. These are my bros, this is my climbing family.
And the Black is Sacred Ground
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2017 - 03:40pm PT
|
And the Black is Sacred Ground
Can I hear an AMEN!!
|
|
skywalker1
Trad climber
co
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
|
I'll give this a shot...
I'm not a B.C. vet but one time my roommate proposed doing Lost Cities. We left Boulder and for whatever reason took the back way. I kept saying we need to buy food but stores kept passing by as my partner driving kept saying "city market" in Gunnison. The music kept playing and sure enough in "Gunny" we rolled into the parking lot at 10:03 PM. They close at 10:00. Undeterred my partner said well we have 1 lb. of bacon. I looked at him and just put my foot up on the dashboard.
We woke in the morning and cooked 1 lb. of bacon. I filled my two Nalgene Bottles and my partner was like "hey man I don't have a water bottle". He grabbed a half empty coke bottle and filled it. Then used his shoe string to make a tie-off string. Unsure of where the hell the "Prisoner of your hairdo gully" was we went down Grizzly Gulch. About halfway to the river we realized this ain't it. So we slog back out. We then went to the visitors center to ask for directions. Now keep in mind its now 8:30 AM and Lost Cities is grade V 5.12. Brent the ranger at the time was very helpful as he gave us ride to the "Hairdo Gully" but asked about our plan. I looked at my partner, at this point like WTF? He just smiled and said thanks.
Well we had to simul ALOT! Some missed belays. Some munge. Lots of Classic. And we mantled the "summit", the last move is literally a mantle just as the sun disappeared. Out of water, no food. I was wiped out! Definitely the hardest thing I've ever done!
We walked back to camp with only beer in the cooler. No food. BUT we settled into camp mode with several climbers around a campfire stoking the stories of each's day and this very nice guy who was still cooking made my partner and I STEAKS!!!! And we had wine and beer and told stories, a woman played a guitar and it was bliss!
I love that place (for some weird reason) and I love the company.
Cheers!
S
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2017 - 04:01pm PT
|
C'mon, that story is just too good to be true for a Black Canyon adventure. Actually, I shouldn't put it that way. There have been lots of crazy Black Canyon adventures. It's just that it seemed that you went out of your way to decrease your odds of success, went for it anyway, and succeeded. Give the rock a sporting chance - Bravo!.
|
|
skywalker1
Trad climber
co
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
|
eeyonkee? I think it...I think some times things happen...And you don't know why. Let me post a new story of a glazed doughnut.
Never meant to step on the true serious nature the Black presents.
|
|
skywalker1
Trad climber
co
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2017 - 05:29pm PT
|
O.K. so I'll give this another go.
My friend down the street a new friend I met in the "valley" proposed we go to the "Black". This is my first time there. I'm 26? He recommends Astro Dog. BUT says we will approach it via the North Rim. I had no idea what that meant. I'm just trying to do everything RAD. Before kids...
We get to the rim and he shows me the route. I can't explain.... but maybe looking at El Cap first time intent on climbing it?
His name is Eric. I will put that out there because someone...not sure who (Josh Warton?)...his roommate...freed the Nose down there. Anyway it was written in Climbing as Epic Eric and this story I'm about to tell is in it.
So anyway we go down and get to the Tyrollean. I'm looking at the entire river disappearing under the whole river bed which is like a river bed of house sized boulders and that damn tyrollean is right over the water fall! I have not done a "real" tyrollean until now and when I got to the end and got off I puked.
So we start climbing. 5:10, 5.9, 5.10....5.11 scary face and we get to the 2 boulder and we take a break. Looking at time we had a few hrs. We climb on. At some point I started looking at our beer cooler and how f#cking far it was a way and we still had to rap the route. We bailed somewhere around the crux.
On the rap we missed seemingly every anchor and we were leaving sh#t left and right as it got dark. We made it. Now the tyrollean back across. Out of water Eric drank from the river. I refused. We slogged back up that damn Cruise Gulley again and I bonked at 1:00am. I had that glazed doughnut in my pocket but couldn't eat it I was too dehydrated. I think we fell asleep for an hour or two then woke up and Eric wanted to go back to the river to get a drink!
I told him "lets get to the rappels" and somewhere up we found a cave that was dripping water. I pulled my bull sh#t parka out and collected water for about an hour. I got enough for both of us to drink and split that squashed glazed doughnut! Charged for the moment we navigated the rappels as people were rapping in for the "Cruise" etc. I even ran into people I knew from Boulder who said "you guys look like shit". We topped out at 8am? 26 hrs after our descent.
An unsuccessful attempt but will never forget it!
Cheers!
S.
By the way I used to post as skywalker but lost touch...
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2017 - 05:22am PT
|
Like that one too, skywalker! In 1992, I too did a long route on the south side, the Flakes, right next to Astrodog, while camped on the northside. I actually wrote about in this very thread over 10 years ago. Here it is again. What's funny to me is that the "guy" happened to be Mike Pennings, a young Mike Pennings, who was actually on his way to Alaska after our Black Canyon outing. He was definitely the fastest partner I've climbed with. Bold son-of-a-gun as well.
Kevin. The Flakes is a good one - apparently it does not get done much. I did it in 1992 with a guy I'd just met the week before, climbing in Boulder. I don't know that I'd recommend this, but we did it by starting on the north rim, hiking down the SOB gully, and crossing the river to get to the start. After topping out, we did a short hike to the next downstream gully, and bushwacked down that thing (with one rappel), crossed the river again, and hiked up the SOB. The route has some memorable pitches. As long as you feel solid on 5.9 wide (like free-solo solid), it's not all that scary.
|
|
wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2017 - 08:27am PT
|
Hey Greg, it's Brad who you started this thread with. It's been a while since I've checked the thread. Unfortunately it's been a lot longer since I made it down to the Black. This is less a story and more an opinion about something that I think is sad.
When I climbed the Checkerboard Wall with Derek and Matt back whenever it was (seems like it would have had to have been close to 25 years ago), all three of us were absolutely impressed with the effort of the 1st ascent team, Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman. To think of approaching that long, relatively smooth face without a bolt kit just seemed visionary to us, and also very bold. It was the epitome of what inspired climbing should be. Doing the route, the runouts and route-finding difficulties were significant, and it just reinforced to us the legendary status of those two Black Canyon pioneers.
I've recently read a discussion about a bolt that was added to that route. I think the hanger has since been removed, but it blows my mind as to how that could happen. Why would anyone even carry a bolt kit so many years after the first ascent team did the climb in such inspiring style, facing so much of the unknown in a smooth 500 ft. route?? When a route with such history is later changed by someone less skilled and not up to the challenge of such a route, we lose something important to our sense of identity as climbers. It's not that I'm an extremist, or for that matter a particularly skilled climber. (We didn't need a bolt kit on our ascent; we had Derek.) But I just can't imagine having the gall to put a bolt on that route.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2017 - 08:55am PT
|
Just looked on MountainProject.com. I didn't know about the bolt. I probably did it 5 times pre-bolt. It's a great Sunday route when your bigger route is on Saturday. Agreed that it is a travesty of sorts. Don't climb in the Black if you are not going to bring some game.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2017 - 11:58am PT
|
Hey sorry if people are getting sick of me bumping these Black Canyon threads. I'm on a mission from God.
Something that I have been thinking about a lot lately is the difference in the quality of the rock between routes on the North Chasm View Wall and routes downriver from the SOB Gully on the north side. I have now been on three downriver routes (Pathfinder, Porcelain Arete, and Sistine Reality) to go with my North Chasm View Wall routes (a bunch) and it's clear to me, as a geologist, that the North Chasm View Wall is mostly pegmatite-intruded granitic (plutonic) rock, whereas the downriver routes are pegmatite-intruded schist and gneiss (the "country" rock that the granites intruded). If you play around on Google Earth, it is clear that the North Chasm View Wall is significantly steeper, overall, than, say, the Painted Wall. The schist and gneiss is just not as strong at fighting mass-wasting. You can see it in this screenshot. I would have to think that the red line coincides with a significant fault.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2017 - 08:56pm PT
|
Skywalker stories are the bomb!
and my partner was like "hey man I don't have a water bottle". He grabbed a half empty coke bottle and filled it. Then used his shoe string to make a tie-off string.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 217 of total 217 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!