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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 13, 2006 - 04:37pm PT
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It started with a plan to do some walls in the valley over spring break. I have done several walls and my friend Jeff had never done one. We setteled on Leaning Tower and watched time crawl by until break was upon us. We drove to the valley on Saturday, April 8, arriving there by noon. After stashing our extra food in the Curry boxes we were off to the Bridalveil parking lot.
For the approach Jeff took the rack/ropes and I took the pig. The hike in was wet and there were several times during the second half of the approach that we had to post-hole through snow.
After arriving at the base, Jeff was worked so after dinner he went straight to bed, while I stayed up and watched the stars. Several times that night I was woken up by a ring tailed cat attempting to steal some bagles.
I was up at dawn the next moring anxious to get going. Jeff took the first lead, and it was obvious that he needed more practice before doing a wall.
As the morning went on the skys turned from clear to overcast, solwly getting darker and darker. So the hard decision was made to turn around. Retreating fromthe top of P1 was not too bad. I had to swing a lot but ended up making it into the ledge without a problem. After reversing the 4th class section we headed down the talus.
A few hundred feet below the "good bivi for 4" site I was walking accross a boulder when the pig got off balence. I tried to grab a branch for support but that did not help. My right foot slipped, but my left boot stuck. As I fell down my left leg twisted under me and I heard a horrible cracking sound. OH SH#T! I knew my left leg/ankel was hurt. I quickly laced up my left boot as tight as I could, and took 4 IB's from the first aid kit. The time was around 2:00pm on Sunday April 9.
We left the pig where it lay and dectided to see how far I could get. I was limited to crawling on my hands and knees or shuffeling around on my butt.
The way down took a long time. Every time I bumped my left leg it put me in an exceeding amoun of pain. I did my best to avoid bumping it, but it was sometimes unavoidable.
It was a daunting task to crawl out over huge, moss covered, wet talus blocks. I found that making jokes made the trip go fasted and kept my mind centered. It must have seemed like a silly situation. A freash cripple draging himself towards the parking lot by his fingernails joking about how all the crab walking will do wonders for my mantles. To get more of an idea of the ordeal...
...check out this video. http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoID=650233161&n=2&Mytoken=DE5C0CC9-135B-E329-494A158C0768C8466384456
After crossing the log, it was one more short hill and then a flat section to the parking lot. I got some really crazy looks as I crawled out of the woods in obvious pain and covered in dirt with a bunch of climbing gear on. Once in the car Jeff drove to Oakhurst.
The medical clinic there was closed so we continued on to Fresno and ended up at the University Health Center or something like that. Then the waiting began. After checking into the hospital a bit after 6:00, my leg was not examined by a doctor until after 11:00pm. I was finally discharged just after midnight. Here is a crappy scan of my x-ray.
I brok the Fibula in my left leg, just above my ankel. The break was due to the severe twisting motion the bone was subjected to. We spent the night in Fresno, and in the morning headed back into the Valley so Jeff could recover our abandoned gear.
The closer we moved to yosemite the worse the weather looked. It started to rain, then show and then rain again as we dropped to the valley floor. Jeff was not happy about having to hike in the rain to get the same bag that I had the accident with. So we stopped by the mountain shop and recruited come help. Nick to the rescue!!! Nick and Jeff hiked up to get the bags, and I caught a ride to the lodge and hung out with Aaron for the day. Everyone was happy when Nick and Jeff arrived safely.
That called for a round a drinks (mmmmnnnnnn drinks and vicodin.)
We sat aound drinking, telling stories and laughing as dusk approached. Nick decided he would get the next round, but had an unconvential way of doing so.
Ahhhh, the classic Cobra!!!
As darkness set in, Jeff and I drove home to deal with the aftermath. That was Monday night, April 10. It's been a slow week of stumbling around on crutches and doctors appointments. I'm not looking forward to going back to work next week.
I have my Ortho appointment tomorrow and will know more then. So far I have heard that I should have a cast for about 6 weeks after which my bone will be back at 100%, but we'll see about that. Hopefull this will not destroy my palns to head back to Peru this summer.
Well, there you hvae it. I broke my leg and had to crawl out ala Joe Simpson in Touching the Void. Ironically a movie that I had just watched 4 days before leaving on the trip.
Matt
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Apr 13, 2006 - 04:45pm PT
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Kick ASSSSS™™™™™™ man!
Here's to a speedy one!
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Apr 13, 2006 - 04:45pm PT
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Well done ... a good retreat is almost as good as a good climb!! Yeah those pigs can drag a fellow down... hope you have a quick and trouble free recovery....
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Apr 13, 2006 - 04:51pm PT
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ouch - what a bummer. glad you could self rescue and keep a good attitude.
man, w/ a broken leg I don't think I could muster a smile!
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2006 - 04:52pm PT
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Thanks! Much Appericiated.
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Apr 13, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
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Way to suck it up and self-rescue. A touron would've been crying for Werner.
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lazide
Big Wall climber
Bay Area, CA
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Apr 13, 2006 - 04:58pm PT
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Congrats on making it back down and getting all your gear! Nick is one awesome and strong monkey!
Hope you heal fast!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Apr 13, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
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two thumbs up!!
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
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This was Nick when he learned what happened to me.
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spyork
Trad climber
Fremont, CA
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Apr 13, 2006 - 05:26pm PT
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Sorry to hear about your leg. Must have been tough to drag yourself out.
Steve
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Apr 13, 2006 - 05:31pm PT
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Good job on the self rescue.
I broke my fibula in the same spot, yes it will heal in that amount of time, but won't be 100% for about 6 months. The cast comes off when the bone has knitted enough to work, but we tend to demand more from our bodies than the average citizen.
Good luck, but be smart about your body, treat it right after an injury or you will regret it for the rest of your life.
Six months now, or a lifetime of a nagging injury, your choice...
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2006 - 05:36pm PT
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I'll take the 6mo now, thank you very much. Ouch DMT, where did that happen? Also one of your pics is not working.
Matt
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scuffy b
climber
S Cruz
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Apr 13, 2006 - 05:40pm PT
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Great job, heal well. Well done report.
Best,
sm
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 13, 2006 - 06:21pm PT
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Why did you not call for a rescue?
Its 911.
YOSAR needs the work.
Juanito
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2006 - 06:24pm PT
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I probably got out faster myself than a rescue would have. I did not want to use park resources unless I really needed to. Lastly, it was a point of pride.
Matt
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 13, 2006 - 06:26pm PT
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Broken Leg, they would not have minded.
Jeff
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poseur
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 13, 2006 - 06:29pm PT
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how lame.....thanks for spraying about your epic descent from the first (ha!) pitch...
....now go bail off of something else..maybe you'll break an arm!!!
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Apr 13, 2006 - 06:33pm PT
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I hear the "point of pride."
I landed a good size air once on a rock 2" under some fresh pow skiing once and got a bad sprain. I did NOT want to ride down in the meat sled, so I skiied down on one leg. I couldn't move once I took my boot off, so I left my ski boot on as a makeshift cast until I was sure it wasn't broke. Leg injuries suck.
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Apr 13, 2006 - 06:37pm PT
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Hey poseur, rc.com is calling you. Go be an as#@&%e over there. You'll be able to spray STFU nOOb everday, a wet dream, I'm sure.
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poseur
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 13, 2006 - 06:43pm PT
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he..he....make me!! :)
don't twist my gumby friend......
slander and be slandered....
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2006 - 06:46pm PT
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poseur- Yes, we retreated from the first pitch of the tower, big deal. I've soloed it and others before. Do you have a 100% success rate?
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poseur
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 13, 2006 - 06:48pm PT
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if i didn't i wouldn't tell you!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 13, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
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I hope your leg heals fast.
Good Luck.
That poser has some bad karma coming his way.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Apr 13, 2006 - 08:12pm PT
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What a "drag"!
I think the approach is the crux anyways.
BTW...Looks like you guys bivied on the skinny 4th class ledge?
That's hardcore.
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2006 - 08:26pm PT
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Yeah Shack it was a memoriable spring "break."
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moabbeth
Trad climber
Los Angeles/Moab
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Apr 13, 2006 - 08:38pm PT
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Hahaha Dingus, I remember that day well!!! We did some major MacGuyvering for that "cast" up there at the base as well as looking for larger branches that could double as a crutch. I was quite thrilled that those things worked from Arrowhead Arete to the parking lot.
Good job on you and your partner's self rescue Matty! Agreed, humor is QUITE the needed medicine in situations like that. Dingus broke his ankle and we were 2,000 ft up from the car. Luckily I had some Advil in my pocket and he had a Budweiser he brought along for the summit so that helped a little. Not much you can do other than keep good thoughts in your injured partner's mind to distract from the situation. We had some good laughs (in between his excruciating pain) during that long descent.
DMT - we're still on for Arrowhead this spring, right :)!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 13, 2006 - 10:18pm PT
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Best wishes for a strong recovery.
At least you didn't get hurt on the climb. Then everybody would spend 100 posts trying to analyze what you did wrong. What can they say now.
"Should have put the heavy items lower in the pig thus lowering the center of gravity"
"NO, should have sandbagged partner into carrying the heavy items in a backpack while reserving the pig for fluff and a few ropes"
I'm always falling on the approach rather than the climb too.
Peace
Karl
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David Nelson
climber
San Francisco
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Apr 13, 2006 - 10:20pm PT
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Thanks for the TR, not all trips top out, but you kept your pride and did the self-rescue. Good report, helps us all to think about other endings than "lived happily ever after." Will help someone in the future, no doubt.
Heal fast and give us a next TR with a top-out ending!
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azm
Trad climber
Ossau
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Apr 14, 2006 - 02:43pm PT
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Yo matty,
Have a good recovery. You'll be fine in a few months.
I can relate to what happened to you : same thing happened to me a few years ago...
Was canyoneering a long one for the 5th time -- trying to go for speed. Almost running. Instead of rapping a small waterfall, I just decided to jump into what seemed like an OK little pool. Not from high, maybe 10-12 feet.
You can probably guess what happened -- same as you. Twisted ankle and a clear snap -- exactly like snapping a small branch of deadwood. Then like an electrical shock up the leg. And then pain. A lot. And then "Oh sh#t... we're far from the car...". Fibula.
To make a long story short, we tried climbing out, but the sides were 600 ft high, and muddy. My buddy led :-). That blew an hour. I spent the next 11 hours crawling just like you : hands, butt, good leg. And floating in the water whenever possible. Descended almost 3 miles / 1200 ft that way. And did about 15-20 raps.
Whan we got back to the car, it was 11:00 PM and we went to get a bite to eat : it's incredible the energy you burn by dragging your ass like that. I was starving.
I made it to the hospital the next morning, and spent 12 days there : 5 days to get the swell down before operating (they wouldn't be able to sew it back shut), and then 7 days. 2 months in a cast and another 2 months re-educating the ankle and building up calf muscle, and all was back to normal. Except I now have 3 titanium screws in the fib.
So just hang in there. You'll need to get flexibility back in your ankle and that kind of hurts a little bit. But you'll be surprised at just how fast your leg muscle will be back to normal.
You'll be OK for a rematch in july, oh, too hot... make that september.
Be patient.
CL
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 14, 2006 - 02:50pm PT
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Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! I thought I was lame[d] busting my leg on the ledge fifteen feet off the ground on the Ranch, but you weren't even on the wall! Pretty proud that you crawled down, dude - I have Randy-nefarius, Chris-coylec and Chad-timanogos to be my crutches on a much gentler trail. Love the crawl across the log, dude!
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! What a wretched pair are we!
All things considered, you got off pretty lucky with an intact tib. I had a plate and about a dozen screws in my ankle. They took out the one diastasis screw after three months, a week later I was caving [with a crutch] in Roppel Cave, Kentucky, and a few weeks later, I wobbled up El Cap.
Do whatever the docs tell you to do, and work hard at rehab as soon as they tell you.
Good luck, and try to keep the aerobic points up any way you can, as you'll need 'em in Peru.
CL - you've never been screwed til you've been unscrewed! All my hardware is out, and I no longer set off the hand-held metal detectors in the airport.
Cheers,
PTPP aka Frankenankle
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Apr 14, 2006 - 03:05pm PT
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Dingus w/out the stache.
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2006 - 04:54pm PT
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Thanks for all the well wishes everyone. I just went to Ortho this morning, and recieved mostly good news. I wil be put in an air cast monday that I can take off myself to take baths. The bones have not displaced and no surgury is required. 6-8 weeks before I can take the cast off for good. I will use crutches for another week or two, and then may start putting weight on the leg w/ the doc's permission. THe bad news is that I have to cancel a trip to Peru in June. However I have not bought lane tickets yet, and I can return the new M.H. EV3 to REI, so not much money wasted. I hope to be back on the wall sometime late summer of fall. Climb safe-
Matt
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Apr 15, 2006 - 07:03pm PT
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Thanks for the TR!
Heal well.
That stretch of talus between the parking lot and Leaning Tower is way dangerous, especially when all the moss and lichen is wet.
One time it took us close to 4 hours to get all the gear back down to the car... One carry, but the boulders were so slick we had to be extremely careful to stay uninjured.
Another time, right up at the base of Mescalito, I slipped off a wet, lichened boulder and heard a crack as my ankle hit... Fortunately just a sprain, but could just as easily been the fib. 6-8 weeks recovery time for that one.
Glad it wasn't worse, and kudos for the self-rescue.
Brutus
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pighumper
climber
Marin
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Apr 15, 2006 - 08:23pm PT
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Gowing back down that talus is a Bitch with two good legs. Well done, wish you a speedy recovery
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
deskville
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Apr 15, 2006 - 09:01pm PT
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I feel your pain.
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2006 - 09:09pm PT
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My pain now feels less in comparison.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 15, 2006 - 09:12pm PT
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Good job matty
Getting out on your own is the best, shows guts and is proud.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
deskville
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Apr 15, 2006 - 09:15pm PT
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Yo Matty,
Mine was a stupid motorcycle wreck, with an easy ride to the hospital in an ambulance.
The important things are:
1) You self resued. That rocks
2) It's not a super bad break. You'll be back on it pretty quickly.
Enjoy the pain pills and do your rehab. I raise a white russian to you in toast.
Cheers,
Kerry
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Apr 16, 2006 - 06:57pm PT
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Matt, great job sucking it up for the descent. Having been up and down that trail a few times with two good wheels I'm certain I wouldn't have wanted to do it with a bum peg. Once again, Nico demostrates what a kick ass dude he is by pitching in for the assist. Very cool you got some help from those guys.
Hope you heal quickly.
Ed
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etreez
Trad climber
Juneau, AK
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Apr 17, 2006 - 04:28am PT
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Man, I'm totally jealous of your removable air cast!
Here's to our recovery. Personally, I'm starting to go totally insane.
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabon movin on
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Apr 17, 2006 - 01:50pm PT
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Let's get back out there fast! Speedy recovery.
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2006 - 05:06pm PT
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Speedy recovery, and then a speedy climb right Jeff?
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabon movin on
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Apr 18, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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SSSSSSSSSi'
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2006 - 07:14pm PT
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Woo Hoo, I graduated today to a lace up ankel brace that I can use with regular shoes. Less than 6 weeks after the accident, not to bad me thinks. I have regained more than 80% of my ankel flexability in my left ankel and I don't believe that I'll need any therapy;) Life is looking better! All right Mr. Tower this is your official warning, I shall return! And Sparky your coming with! Muuuuhahahaha...
Matt
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 29, 2015 - 10:16am PT
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@_@
......
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| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
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