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Messages 1 - 136 of total 136 in this topic |
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 8, 2006 - 11:11am PT
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It's been too long since we've had an appreciation thread. For this installment, I nominate "Largo" aka John Long.
Post up your photos and stories. I'm sure there are at least a *couple* out there...
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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ahhhh hah ha.... I had an internet spanking from largo early on and he said my writing skills were....)can't rememebr exaclty what). he tried to egg me on for his, and rc.com's amusement, by starting a story, and having me take the ball and run with it.
I never did, but I, of course, can access that story start. Maybe on Monday, I will do so, if he doesn't mind. p.s. There were 2 versions, the first was a hilarous california gym-climber catfight, and when I said I had no Cali imagery in my head to draw from, he kindly rewrote it with a New England twist.....
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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F*#k, this is going to be a hundred section thread to appease the dial up nation.
John, don't have the words.
Climbing for me would never have been the same without John Long.
Thanks.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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"Climbing" as we know it would not exist without Largo!
Thanks for the rescue John, the scrapes on my side have finally healed (after 35 years).
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Climbing for me would never have been the same without John Long.
"Climbing" as we know it would not exist without Largo!
Sums it up pretty well
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2006 - 01:52pm PT
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Everything I know about him - everything I've read, seen and heard - always brings a smile to my face.
One can't have enough smiles - thanks for every last one of them!
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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One time at the top of a climb in the valley, I was thinking about how much I appreciate all those that came before me and created the sport I love so dearly. Then I thought, maybe even more important than doing the climbs was writing the stories about it. Stories than anyone in the world could read for years to come, and be inspired and entertained. Higher Spire, Lost Arrow Chimney, RNWHD, The Nose, and of course a plethora of excellent writings by Largo. What a cool contribution to humanity to have created. Thanks for your adventures, but even more thanks for taking the time to write about them.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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"Gee, that Largo guy sure looks strong."
Photo: John Gill
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Mike Ierien
Trad climber
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Some 20+ winters ago, a few of us were climbing in Joshua Tree at Intersection Rock. Trying the Left Ski Track and basically getting our arses handed to us. Anyway...the biggest climber I had ever seen strolls up to some boulder near the base. He scans the problem, chalks up, and jumps for the first hold some 8+ feet off the deck. Well, this monster's chest hits the rock and knocks him back to the ground. He shakes his head, venomously glares at the problem, chalks again, steps back a few feet and full-on launches his 200+ lbs. at this chunk of stone. His sausage fingers latch the hold only to have his "titanium beefsteak" forearms detach his fingers from said hold. Back to the ground he goes. Picks himself up, dusts himself off, and simply walks off muttering something to the effect of, "f*#k it, I'm gettin' somethin' to drink."
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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That beginning rock climbing video he put out was a crack up. As a teenager in the late eighties with few partners and no mentors, I watched that thing over and over, and might have even learned something. ;-)
Largo supports the arts too. Thanks John.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2006 - 04:09pm PT
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I second the request for photos with only shorts. short shorts..
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2006 - 05:23pm PT
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Need. more.
:)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Ho man! He can free solo just air!
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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John B ...is that the Penny Ante Boulder in Lost Canyon?
Cool shot and a great article in Climbing "Pumping Sandstone". Maybe 77 or 78 with Largo doing the Ripper Traverse on the cover.
Hats off to Largo for all that he has done for the sport.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Climbing is the kind of endeavor that spawns heroes. We all have our climbing heroes. Largo makes my top 5 list. On top of that, I like that he's a big guy - climbing wouldn't be the same if the only climbers worth mention were the sub-160 pounders that, by all rights SHOULD be the best climbers.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Largo's the kind of guy who will take a break from his bouldering circuit to show a n00b around Mt. Rubidoux.
I know. I was that n00b.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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100% heart, 100% class, 24/7, going all the way back to the muthafukkin' day. a tip of the hat to you, old man.
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Mike Ierien
Trad climber
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Hey Bob, you've done your share for this community of ours. Dig that.
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todd-gordon
climber
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For awhile, back in the early 80's, I was one of the only people who had a place at Joshua Tree.....it was a small place... a flop house, and on week-ends... there were usually 30-75 people there EVERY weekend.... Largo was often there....and everyone had a spot to bivy... usually in their cars, trucks, or Vans... but Largo never drive to the crags in this own car..(Did he have a car??)..so he usually bivied outside......His bivy spot that he chose was a place behind the house , up against the house......sort of a place where a hobo might crash out if he were dead drunk.......not out in the desert , or in the wash, or in a tent.... but up against the house........like a common panhandler.........I found it a bit odd, but it was quiet , peaceful, no rangers ,free, and a hop-skip-jump from coffee and breakfast in town in the A.M........It was bare bones back then.......all you needed was a place to crash, a pad, and a dirty sleeping bag, a toothbrush, and beat up climbing gear, and ratty clothing that we all got at thrift-stores, or found at the crags or the side of the road...................
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Dip him in bronze, and let's move on 8-)
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Tom, I love that picture of those guys at el cap.. All they need is a peace sign! too funny.
John, thanks for all the information in your writings. They were invaluable when I first got started.
Also, you seem like such a humble guy.
Doug
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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werner -- classic spoof shot! that photo of those three guys has become so iconic it IS about timke we strted letting some of the air out of it...
anybody else seen those plastic blow-up dolls of that guy in meunch's "the scream"? there may be an untapped item for the novely gift market here...
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10b4me
Ice climber
The Happies
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Werner,
that is fvckin hilarious.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Werner that IS hilarious!
BVB I have one of those scream™ blow up dolls, hmmm?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Largo is simply THE Main Man. Still. Can't even begin to express his impact on climbing, and on me. Suffice it to say that what climbing is today is the direct result of people like Largo.
Too funny Werner... Brilliant!
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Holy smokes John! You've got a fan club!
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SammyLee
Trad climber
Memphis
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Memories of things that never happened. That's part of my climbing experience. Just last night, my wife said that if in the 70's, I've have known about camp 4, I'd have made my way there. And been some part of that crazy, wonderful group.
Before I started climbing in the real world, I went to the library and checked out a bunch of books and a video. Without realizing it, just picking the ones that looked like they might teach me something and be entertaining at the same time, they all were by this one guy. Our big Largo.
Plenty of times, when I'm trying to go to sleep or just daydreaming, I think of what it was like "back in the day", those halcyon days, of the beginning of modern climbing. Wishing I had been there, seeing images in my mind that my eyes never beheld. Often, I realize that my heart is pounding from cruxes and falls that I never experienced. Now that's a hell of climber and writer.
I hope John reads all these, just so he'll give us more. And John, if you run out of Stonemaster stuff, hell, make something up! Good on ya, brother man!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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WTF!
Why is the snowBird wearing a dress?
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Ouch!
climber
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Werner, did you build that magnificent sculpture? One for the ages.
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Ouch!
climber
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It would make a great cover for the book that you should write.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 10, 2006 - 04:57pm PT
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I only know one thing about John Long.
When my friend Jim Okel was dying, I noticed that JL had visited that james character who almost died free soloing.
Well I knew my pal Jim admired John Long, so I wrote Long an e-mail asking him to say something to Jim Okel.
And he did it.
You should have seen the look on Okel's face when I asked him, hey Jim, get any good email lately?"
John long is priceless in my book.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Apr 10, 2006 - 06:02pm PT
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Too funny Werner! You can really crack me up.
Dirt – Good story, he has always been there to lend a hand even when you don’t ask.
I took this yesterday, John on the left with his crew, the Wheelmasters getting ready to ride the tunnel trail in Santa Barbara.
Hard trail on a Mt. Bike but these guys put that to shame.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 10, 2006 - 06:46pm PT
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"Gee Wally, they're not really gonna' ride unicycles on trails...are they?"
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 11, 2006 - 12:27am PT
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Largo can be credited with enhancing our lexicon by coining such terms as "royal brisket".
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Apr 11, 2006 - 12:34am PT
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"chiseled brisket"
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Apr 11, 2006 - 05:07pm PT
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It was a Long visit.
My vision was fogged with morphine. I blinked twice as the hospital bed tilted me into a seated position. He turned sideways to fit through the door. His feet lumbered him into the room. Within a moment he was cemented in a blue metal chair at the base of the bed.
My mom shot a quizical look at him, and then me. He was twice my age and didn’t look like the Ted Kazcinkis that I called my friends.
“I’m John Long,” he said with the authority of the ten commandments. “I just swam in from LA to see the boy. Ho-man, he took a big fall. When I was his age I was doing the same thing, living in sub-sharan squalor just to lose dermis on the granite around Joshua Tree.”
There was an audible thud as my chops hit the tile. Tales of Tobin Sorenson, Yabo, and other Stonemasters shot through my head. Here was the man who could spin a yarn better than an Amish farmer.
“Oh, so you rock climb? You don’t do none of that free climbing do you?” My mom was already starting to embarrass me.
“Used to, but now I’ve got a family.” John turned towards me. “I brought you some tapes and a discman. This stuffed helped me through my rehab when I tore out my shoulder. Listen to it.”
My head bobbed like a buoy on a windy day as my jaw started jammering questions.
“Ever get on Equinox? What was it like back in the day? You know Bachar? That problem, Largo Lunge out by Pumping Monzonite, is pretty cool. You have to jump to get those holds or you just reach? You climb a lot in the valley?”
John nodded and sat quietly.
“So what kind of stuff did you do?” I’d memorized the first ascent list two years ago but I was hoping he’d sequeway into an epic climbing story.
“You know, rock climbs.” His modesty was exasperating. I’d been listening to my mother read from Revelations for a week and I wanted to hear about climbing the Nose in a day or Yabo soloing Leave it to Beaver.
“Well got to get back to my ark in LA. Take care boy, listen to those tapes, and heal,” with that the tornado left. I thought more about what he didn’t say then what he did.
My mom adjusted a pillow under my head. “Who was that?”
“Him?” I smiled, “I guess he’s just another climber.”
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Apr 11, 2006 - 05:16pm PT
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If those tapes he gave you are what I think they are, they're the same reason I have a deep apprciation for Largo.
It doesn't matter to me what or how you climb, but how you live. Living the kind of way to have people tell interesting stories about you is the right way in my book.
Cheers!
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Apr 11, 2006 - 05:31pm PT
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I thought at this juncture I would add a few little know facts about our illustrious "Largo."
Mr. Long has been known to sit for long periods of time doing the zen meditation "zazen" at the Mount Baldy Zen Center some years back. Mr. Long was raised in the Jewish religion and has been known to read the well known Jewish cultural guide, the "Joys of Yiddish."
See, I told ya these would be little known facts.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 11, 2006 - 08:35pm PT
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Interesting indeed hashbro.
Jaybro, "chiseled brisket" is a more holistic and newer term whereas the royal variety was more, shall we say, anatomically oriented. Search the Long literature back several decades...
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 11, 2006 - 08:39pm PT
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james that's a good story.
Too bad about the morphine/revelations combo, LOL. I bet that was rough.
When I had Morpine I had all kinds of major halucinations, but with dilaudid this last time I only had one very small one.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 11, 2006 - 08:41pm PT
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Yeah, great story James about the Largo visit, I enjoyed reading that one too.
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Dusty
Trad climber
up & down highway 99
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Apr 15, 2006 - 04:08am PT
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Largo...any photos of you on Hot Lips in Malibu Creek? Just curious...
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 13, 2008 - 11:17pm PT
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Bump for Largo! You rock!
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Aug 15, 2008 - 12:04am PT
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Too many stories and memories to type in one sitting; many from years ago and some more recent.
John's always been a mentor to SoCal climbers (whether he realized it or not), and his ability and desire to "enjoy the experience" should be a lesson to us all.
Thanks for everything Senor Largo.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Aug 15, 2008 - 01:43am PT
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Bob, Yes, that pic that Bachar posted is of JL on Penny Ante Boulder in Lost Canyon, just SE of Pueblo, CO.
Curt
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Aug 15, 2008 - 02:05am PT
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Here is to John Long that indirectly through his book taught me how to climb without killing myself. Plus his stories have kept me laughing through out the years!
Thanks Largo, your books have kept me alive and in a happier state of being.
AF
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 15, 2008 - 03:25am PT
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I would certainly add a big thumbs up for my friend John Long. He was one of the killers of the '70s free climbing era in California and is a spirit larger than life. A fine writer, as well, explosive and forceful, as opposed to we poets with our soft, simpering voices... Who couldn't appreciate this man Largo?
Pat Ament
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 15, 2008 - 06:00am PT
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One of the first climbing magazines I ever got was a back issue, several years old. In it there was an article by long about a long lost friend from camp 4 who went on to bigger and better things, dreaming of more. It was the most moving and inspiring thing I have read up to that point in my life. I realized that climbing is a lifestyle and not an endeavor.
I still read it every few weeks. His writing in the 'rags is direly missed, as is Tami's artwork. Not forgotten... not ever.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 15, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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Hoooooooooooooo man! Largo is the Pearl of the Universe and the Gem of the Cosmos! And the Master of the J Paul Pebble. Werd up!
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o-man
Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Aug 15, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
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I was one of the many faces in camp 4 in the seventys and would like the opertunity to acknowledge John along with every one that has posted. He has been an insperation to me in many arenas. One the greatest gifts that he has given me, are the storys in the many volumes he has produced. John inspired me to write my own tail of how things happened. Often before I can get started I will read a bit of John Long and then settle in to my task. Thanks John!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Aug 15, 2008 - 10:35pm PT
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Really super guy is all I can say about him!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 15, 2008 - 11:16pm PT
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Here's to "Big John"...
The big man who has helped so many of us to dig deeply and extract the little hero within.
-photos Kieth Cunning
Much thanks and three cheers my brother!
-Little Roy
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 15, 2008 - 11:44pm PT
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 15, 2008 - 11:49pm PT
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hey there largo... say, i dont know you... but i sure know some fine stuf about you now!...
god bless and have a great appreciation thread here, and keep on being a great inspirations to all.....
*say werner, that was a 'cool, calm, and collected' group of climbers there.... say, they may have been a mite pale---but surely not from the fear of adventure.....
great fun... sure do have fun with snow-building....
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ron ray
climber
seattle
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Aug 16, 2008 - 12:02am PT
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OK, I never met the man but that black and white pic brings back memories. Black Mountain, I think, bouldering near Idylwild and Tahquitz. Saw a set of these in a magazine. Heard from some folks out at the Beach they'd tilted the camera or something and it was really pretty easy. We drove and hiked all over that hill finding the rocks in the photos. Never did find any easy ones.
And I do recall Largo's text saying there were no bolts and often no easy way down from the big ones. I wouldn't know. Never got to the top of them.
I did see Largo once. At least I like to think so. Out at JTree, I remember seeing a couple of crazy guys heading solo up the left ski track on intersection rock. The first guy soared; the second seemed to get stuck for a bit. A couple months later I read another Largo piece where he talked about following Bacher up the left ski track, getting the sequence wrong and nearly coming off.
Anyway, when I tried my hand at climbing Largo and the masters had pretty much moved on to bigger things, and while I tried for a while to follow the tracks their EBs left, my own climbing never amounted to much. But I wouldn't trade the times in places like the Valley and JTree with a few friends, scaring ourselves and drinking too many beers, for anything.
So thanks for the inspiration, Largo. May your nuts always hold strong.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Aug 16, 2008 - 12:09am PT
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The man's introspective style, and ability to capture the essence of climbing is unmatched!!! Plus, his wit and sophomoric humor will have me laughing to the grave. Thank you John Long for who you are and what you have contributed!
Cracko
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 23, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
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...Sophomoric humor you said Cracko?
This thread needs a bump...lemme see, I think I have some more pictures of Largo.
...ooops, that's Russ Walling.
My mistake.
Here let's try another:
Nope, that was Wonder Braun.
Shoot & Darn.
I better dig deeper into the collection,
one moment please...
Okay here we are -apologies for the delay.
John Long, new routing at Giant Rock Airport, 1980s-ish:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 23, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
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Largo, 'cuple years ago, with mentor Bridwell, ringside, JT:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 23, 2008 - 08:49pm PT
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...And ensconced in the current thirst for learning curve:
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 23, 2008 - 08:57pm PT
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So in that picture from Giant Rock Airport, what exactly is it that Largo is doing, and what is the gadget he's doing it with? Is it some sort of experimental unicycling or something?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 23, 2008 - 09:04pm PT
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I'm not at liberty to say...really.
Fact is, whatever it was, it was so kooky, I couldn't for the life of me recall exactly.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Aug 23, 2008 - 09:15pm PT
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Mid '70s, sitting at a table in camp 4. I had a giant wart on my index finger. John is sitting across from me and pokes the wart with his huge index finger and says, "Ho man, what the hell is that thing? You could hand jam a fist crack with that!"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 23, 2008 - 09:16pm PT
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HOH MAHN... drain a red inch off that jug and pass it!!!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Aug 23, 2008 - 09:30pm PT
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Juan, Juan Largo?
donde estan los peche negras?
peche cabbron...
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Aug 23, 2008 - 10:21pm PT
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Somebody chime in here and tell me the story about him and Bridwell doing that heinous traverse of Borneo or New Guinea or wherever.
Like, did they get Guinea Worm or any thirty foot long gastro parasites?
Weren't they sponsored by Camel?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 23, 2008 - 10:25pm PT
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"Fact is, whatever it was, it was so kooky, I couldn't for the life of me recall exactly."
Whew! That's a relief! I was worried that those "trousers" might be the kind of thing that say circus performers on unicycles wear - they sort of had that look. Or maybe the kind of clothes that L wants TeamWayHomo™ to wear at the FaceLift, to astound the NPS and the tourists. It just didn't seem Largo-like.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 23, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
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Sorry BASE,
I got nothin' except this clip from Ma Vie A La Verticale, by Lynn Hill:
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Aug 23, 2008 - 11:16pm PT
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base -i'm wit u man...
we gotta get the facts.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Aug 23, 2008 - 11:23pm PT
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I don't give a damn about the facts. Bald lies are far more entertaining. I myself am a fantastic liar.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2008 - 12:39am PT
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What a fun thread to revive. Much appreciation to a great guy!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Aug 24, 2008 - 12:48am PT
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"Never let the truth get in the way of a good story."
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 24, 2008 - 12:59am PT
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"The power of fiction"
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 24, 2008 - 04:46am PT
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His words have brought much laughter...
Much appreciated
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jan 18, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
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One of my John Long favorites:
"There is so much in life one can thieve his way past,
can wheedle over with guile and fancy talk, can ride out
on the strength and toils of others."
It goes on... "But not wall climbing.
Nobody can climb so much as a single inch of
one for you, so the victory is all yours." (Big Walls)
It's that first part esp that I've carried around with me
all these years and hits home once in awhile. Thanks John.
P.S. When I was taking up bungee jumping-- before
taking everybody bungee jumping!-- back around 1989
(it was all the rage then) in the bay area (off the
hwy 280 Durand Bridge), before my climbing days, I
watched one of his "learn to climb" videos somewhere.
It was great, fact-filled, for this noob. Sure wish
some of those bits and pieces were somewhere on youtube.
(I still remember him in a three-piece suit
belaying or something).
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 18, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
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I find his ideas have infected my thoughts in many areas...
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Tea
Trad climber
Behind the Zion Curtain
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Jan 18, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
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Has always inspired a big boy like me, to not use size as an excuse.
And his writing is top shelf!!
Thanks John!
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Jan 18, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
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High Five!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jan 19, 2010 - 10:44pm PT
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a friend returned my copy of The High Lonesome.
I had 'forgotten' about a couple gems...re-read them tonight.
a good harvest bump to you JL
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Jan 19, 2010 - 10:56pm PT
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Largo,
generous human,
artist,
two of the best compliments i know how to give and both well deserved.
and Mr. Braun posted the funniest pic in honor of you I have seen in a long time.
thanks for all your contributions Largo,
Ed
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Keeper of Australia Mt
Trad climber
Whitehorse, Yukon , Canada
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Jan 20, 2010 - 02:46am PT
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Largo is to climbing what the Gretz is to hockey - excepting he performs as well on paper as he does on rock. If there were a Climbing Hall of Fame he would be in it for just about every category = performer, builder and media.
Got to love his wickedly wild sense of humor - that little epic of his where he desperately finishes the route on a wing, prayer and a fortuitous root - which he then negates in order to sandbag a young turk (ey) has got to be a classic.
His climbing books are a huge contribution to the sport and they contributed to one of my modest memorable moments - climbing Cat Crack at Squamish - a couple of metres from the top with my lead waiting on his second and I have this freaking crack that isn't cooperating with my fist for a jam. I would have been pretty ticked to not have made it to the top and as I am contemplating what outpouring of expletives would be appropriate to that possibility - I had a brain flash - maybe a John Long moment - I remembered I had seen a pic of something called a hand stack
in one of his books - so gave it a go. Bingo - just what the doc ordered - it worked like a charm and I managed to haul my aging carcass up to the top. So indeed their is wisdom in the words (and pics) of our elders and
we should pay them appropriate homage, contribute to their retirement ambitions and keep them supplied in good brew as appropriate.
Not having Largo in the climbing mix would be like having Black Forest cake without the cherries. Not nearly as decadent and fulfilling. He makes all of us better in spirit with the best of laughs.
So kudos to the Main Man and I hope he keeps rolling for another 50 at least.
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Blinky
Trad climber
North Carolina
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Jan 20, 2010 - 09:27am PT
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In my circle of friends, John's article 'Pumping Sandstone' legitimized bouldering as a pursuit with it's own rewards. It stopped being just practice, we started naming problems and pushing the limits of human connective tissue. It was a major influence, thank you for that Mr. Largo.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 21, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
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Only met the man once.
I was climbing on the apron. I forget what route I had done but I was on the ledge above the Green Dragon, Sailing Shoes and Anchors Away area. As I belayed my partner up I was watching Largo climb below. It was so long ago I can't remember exactly but as I recall the route Largo was on was Green Dragon. Even though he took one small 'Blooper' slider/fall he basically cruised the thing. I will never forget thinking "Ho Mahn, that dude sure is graceful and focused for such a huge dude on a seriously difficult friction route.
I have always had this issue with 'Hero worship', I don't do it well. Not to say that Largo wasn't a total hero of mine. I had seen him plenty hanging out with the likes of Bachar, Kaulk and Cashner around Camp-4 but this encounter was of the real kind.
I was sitting there belaying and smoking a Marlboro. Onto the ledge mantels Largo and after setting up a belay but before putting his second 'on' he looked at me and politely asked if he could bum a dimp off me. Of course, with no wise cracks I gave him a smoke and a light but certainly refrained from the kick in the ass to get it started. Perhaps it was my reverse 'Hero Worship' psychology or maybe part of my "How cool is this famous person' testing regime. I looked at him and asked his name. He said 'John" in response. I said "Hey cool I can remember your name easy, it's my first name as well. But hey, I don't forget faces but names stick much better when I know someone's full name, what's you last name John?" He just rolled his eyes and head my way and said "John, just call me John that's all you need in order to address me."
I asked what he thought of the route he had just climbed, mentioning that I had gotten my gimpy, skinny arse up it a short time prior. Bear in mind that at that time Green Dragon was a little controversial with regard to rating. As well it was on the Apron aka: the "Women's Wall". Largo made no disparaging remarks. He said the rating was perhaps a little soft and that he was not sure you could call it a .12 but no doubt well into the .11+ area. He said it was enjoyable to do a slab route that was technically difficult but with out the typical death run out/s of earlier slab test pieces and he gave a 'Hat's off to the guys that put it up." That comment surprised me a little. I thought, does he not know who put it up? Does he not know who Cantwell is? Or... Is this just another piece of his nonchalance towards his reputation and the climbing community at large?
Largo:
You owe me a dimp uncle...
A while back I posted a thread about my dear friend, teacher, confidante and partner in crime Aunty Nona Beamer from Hawai'i. Much to my surprise Largo was one of the early responders too the post. His words were pleasant and supportive and included a quoted snippet of writing he had composed. That reminded me that Largo is a professional writer.
Many times I have considered soliciting his advice as I would like to try my hand at writing. I have more than once chucked an outline of a letter I started to compose to him asking for advice. Chucked'm ? Why ? Well cuz the dude is famous and I would be asking for info that involves his professional career for free... Probably not cool?
Perhaps one day I will bump into him again and I can ask for a cigg and that can launch into further topics of discussion. I hope that if that day comes, that he will not have a cigg on him to give.
Largo:
I hope the quit smoking campaign is going well ?
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Double D
climber
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Jan 21, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
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I remember pulling into Idyllwild very late into the night when Largo was hanging with a bunch of rouges including Fred East, Auggie Klein and Kurt Rieder. I had a few slide shows to put on in the LA & OC area over the next couple of days and Largo immediately asks where and if I knew my way around. “No clue” I said “but I remember that REI is in Carson.”
“Ho MANN you must have security and guidance!” Next day after bouldering a bit Largo gave me the So. Cal tour royal... I’ll call it the “bust’n yer gut” tour. Best ab workout I ever had was over those couple a days as he kept me in stitches. I think we had more wino’s just trying to get off the street than climbers at the Carson show. I don’t really remember the other ones.
Somehow we managed to take in Rubideaux where he gave me a quick tour of his amazing home turf. I scarcely made it off the ground on many of the test pieces and if memory serves me he was recovering from a split tip…luckily because it was intimidating how hard he could pull down for a big dude. Then it was Corona Del Mar, then down to Laguna Beach just to check out the babes and a quick trip to meet the “rents” before returning to Idyllwild.
I can’t imagine how dull the trip would have been alone and was always grateful for Largo’s multi-day tour guiding service. And yes, I did need security and guidance!
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jan 21, 2010 - 11:49pm PT
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I took the only bad climbing fall I ever took at Suicide Rock in 1985. It was some easy 10d thing--but I screwed the pooch and somehow fell. I fell about 20 feet, hit the wall with my right foot on the way down, and was then immediately lowered down to a big ledge about 10 feet off the ground by my belayer. It turns out the ankle was broken in 6 or 7 places and I was feeling a bit like I was going to pass out.
While I was laying there feeling pretty loopy, some guy climbs up to the ledge, unties me from the rope and carries me down to the ground, placing me under a nice shady tree. That's not exactly how I would have chosen to meet JL, but that's how it happened. Thanks, JL.
Curt
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Anastasia
Mountain climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Jan 21, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
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Bump!
Largo is a great man, period.
AFS
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 21, 2010 - 11:55pm PT
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hey there, all, say, just stepping in here again... .this is a very good read, too! ...
here's to you, largo! more appreciation, and after a happy "re-read", too...
:)
*say, does nature know that there is another OUCH cartoon in the near-beginning here... ?
let's pass him the word, for the collection-files, just in case...
:)
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:33am PT
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I will always be grateful for the way he reached out to me after my worst eye surgery and said that reaching out in support of each other is something climbers just do for each other. Then he called me sweet pea.
He's a sweet pea, too.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:51am PT
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without how to rock climb i would have had a harder time learning how to rock climb. thanks largo!
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:59am PT
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May I add a thank you for your decision to "MOVE!" rather than staying put when we were caught in a thunder and lightening storm on Arrowhead Arete?
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10b4me
Ice climber
Ice Caves at the Sads
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Jan 22, 2010 - 01:15am PT
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Largo is a great man, period.
well said Anastasia
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 22, 2010 - 01:21am PT
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BITD I knew JL when he worked at Ski Mart when they had a store in Pacific Beach in San Diego. Even then, as a junior high school student, I knew of Largo. He had already made a huge impression on me as a climber, but also as a larger than life persona. He always called me "Little Mike" and my (almost daily) visits to the shop were always memorable visits, most assuredly with the most grandiose and epic tales that had my young imagination reeling with possibility. He and John Bachar were definitely the biggest inspiration for me as a young climber to pursue my dreams and I will always be infinitely grateful to him. Viva Largo!!
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
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Few people can compare with the stories told about them, but Largo comes pretty damn close.
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Chief
climber
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Jan 22, 2010 - 01:38pm PT
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I was hanging in Idyllwild with Gibson, Manson and Cameron in 77-78? and was introduced to John by Greg. There was the usual chat and John asked about Squamish and I suggested it was a good area if you liked nailing, possibly implying that John didn't aid climb.
"Ho Man! Do I like nailing? Ho man, done over a hundred pitches this year man! Do I like nailing? Ho Man!"
It was classic Largo and did I get an earful and feel like a geek.
John's larger than life style be it on the rock, writing or narrating has helped define the sport of rock climbing and our sense of identity as a tribe. Thanks Largo!
Perry
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krutley
climber
here, now
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May 10, 2010 - 04:17am PT
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If this is how to communicate with the man, so be it...
Random memories in SoCal:
-taking a pull off a beer bottle and spitting out a couple cigarette butts, angry as hell, but (sorry) the look on your face was priceless.
-new discoveries at The Relativity Boulders
-beating a tune on anything that didn't move, I mean a badass multipolyrhythmic beyond comprehension al dimeola genre thing
-your commanding presence, voice, strength and genuine warmth. Big man, and a bigger heart.
-bestowing the "Rieder hydraulics" title on me. Wish I still had em.
With all my Heart, you are appreciated.
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Anastasia
Mountain climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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May 10, 2010 - 04:29am PT
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:) BUMP!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 10, 2010 - 09:21am PT
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Few men have left such an indelible impression on the climbing world, and fewer still the charisma and ability to put pen to paper and share it with us all.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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May 10, 2010 - 10:58am PT
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I just finished writing a second review of The Stonemasters. That's two of em from just this one writer in about 8 months since it came out.
I'm pretty high on this book, and a lot of it owes to John. Well, Bullwinkle's contributions rock too. And not to mention Gramicci for pumping up a publishing house to get the massive volume between covers and into the real world.
Those guys did something pretty cool that comes down to generosity, which has been a theme ever since this thread opened years ago. See, instead of hogging the pages, which would have been fitting for a good writer and a fine photographer, they opened it up to sweep in a lot of the best writing and even some of the grainiest snapshots -- but ones that captured their soul -- from the Stonemasters at large.
Long emphasizes the same thing in the opening piece, "A Short History of the Stonemasters," as they grow from geeky kids reciting Herman Buhl in a rat-shack in Upland, to a band of brothers who have all sent Valhalla, to becoming the emblem of a generation. Point is, they ultimately shared their name and their identity:
When the Stonemaster's gusto grew too much for us Southern Californians to contain, our original group burst at the seams and The Stonemaster mojo splashed over one and all. By 1974 there were easily 25 Stonemasters (an ascent of Valhalla w no longer criteria), and by 1975 most everyone in Camp 4 was a charter member of the most unofficial club on the planet....since the original movement diffused into the masses after a few short seasons.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 10, 2010 - 11:52am PT
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I though 'Largo' was a nome de plume of Crimpie's.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 10, 2010 - 02:02pm PT
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If Largo had never climbed a rock, nor ever wrote a word, I would still be honored and delighted to know him.
More people like Largo and we'd have a better world
Much Love
Karl
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 10, 2010 - 02:17pm PT
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Karl is dead on, John would be a wonderful person to know no matter what... and a very generous spirit
in an old thread I wrote:
...Pushing the boundaries means having to deal with uncertainty, it is the very nature of going beyond the boundaries. It is the feeling of the first time we walk down the street, alone, as a child to a new block. Some kids do this easily, some never do... some are in between.
In that sense, I was never a Stonemaster.
JL replied:
I think you have it wrong, there, Ed. The reason you weren´t a Stonemaster is that we somehow never ran into you, even though I went to college and grad school right there in Claremont. If we´d ever hooked up you´d have been drawn into the vortex of the thing, like it or not. But that was then and what matters is what´s happening now, and in that context we´re reading about your exploits and adventures all the time, so you got there without us after all. But it would hae been fun to have had you along back in the day.
And for a moment he had me there along with them all, a wonderful thing to imagine.
thanks John
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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Hey John,
Can't say I am a fan. I do remember you hang out with us at Stoney one day. Waiting for us to spark up a bowl.
MMM
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
topanga, CA
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About a month ago, hadn't been into the gym in ages, and now we're supposed to bring our own rope. Largo, hardly knowing me at all, has no problems lending a rope of his.
In addition, the book he and Middendorf wrote is how I learned to climb - thanks guys!!!!!
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from an ice pick and missing my mama.
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He is someone that you automatically like and respect. There is something in his essence that makes him a natural leader. You just know that no matter what he does, he will find a way to do it well and... Without a thought, he will create a path so that you can follow along.
You really can't say that about most people.
AFS
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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"Hoo Man, quit it with that 'Hoo Man' stuff"
--John Long to his groupies who were saying Hoo Man all the time...
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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deuce, if I remember right, it wasn't just his little band of groupies, it was the whole freakin social scene. I think the two most imitated, mimicked, parodied people of that era were Largo and Yabo. But the Hoo Man, followed by any number of largoisms, was the common denominator when hanging around the fire.
Hoo Man, fire me a burger
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go-B
climber
Sozo
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Up High!
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o-man
Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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I must admit that I think that this is really Cool!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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I do remember way back in the day Largo luggin' this Thunderbird around the campground and MAKING the low life take mandatory swills from it whether you wanted to or not and the consequences of NOT taking a hit were.....well I never wanted to find out so I drank the dreaded stank. He'll deny it, but it's the truth. I also remember hearing ALL frekin night...."Ho Man dig this...."
I also remember be intimidated by his freekin HUGE biceps and the fact that you dare not be caught taking a stare a look at his lady! Now a days the old man couldn't catch me if I was on crutches, but I LOVE ya John....you provided the needed motivation and inspiration to a younger punk to keep climbing. Thanks!
Peace
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 23, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
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I think this is him! Sure looks like Long's swagger...
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Nov 23, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
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John was very impressive back in the 1970s and 80s (he still is) - muscular and powerful, confident, a force to be reckoned with. And he weighed more than me . . . unusual among the rock jocks of the day!
;>)
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 23, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
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Thanks for the how-to books. They've been very helpful.
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Nov 24, 2013 - 01:11am PT
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Don't know Largo well but have appreciated his generous spirit the few times I've got to talk wih him. I love how his recollection of his first ascents make them sound so much more attainable than they are... "Yeah totally, jump on astroman, you'll have no problem!" Lol... He could probably make you believe anything, it's easy to see how the frontiers of the possible were so influenced by that will and confidence. Thanks John!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Nov 24, 2013 - 08:01am PT
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Hi Steve:
Thanks for the trip report. I was always wondering about that ascent for this reason: The Prow was my second wall climb and we (Richard Harrison, Ricky Accomazzo and I) did this as kids shortly after your solo ascent, long before the climb was bashed out. We heard that you had soloed the thing and I was amazed, it being so steep and exposed and us being so green. You seemed very heroic to us just then. Still do.
JL
I was blown away by John's kind comment; especially since I've never had the pleasure of meeting the man.
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Nov 24, 2013 - 11:17am PT
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Doug Byerly and I were climbing in Joshua Tree in the mid 80's, and had just finished a 5.9 somewhere near Hidden Valley. We noticed three climbers heading our way, carrying an assortment of gear and equipment. As we are packing our gear at the base, a big dude walks up to us and starts talking about the climb, asking us how we liked it. We said good, maybe a little gritty, but fun. He said yeah, it was pretty gritty when he did the 1st ascent 10 years or so ago.
We recognized him as John Long. The other two climbers, who were maintaining a low profile and staying about 30' away, was Ron Kauk and Mari Gingery. They were there to film a bit for the How To Rock Climb video. I can't remember the name of the route, and I never saw the movie, but we thought it was cool how friendly Largo was.
We hung out to watch the climb, and left after Ron Kauk's foot slipped at the crux. We were wondering if that was staged or not...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 24, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
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He could probably make you believe anything, it's easy to see how the frontiers of the possible were so influenced by that will and confidence. Thanks John!
Yes so true...
I can recall many times at Jans Red Kettle, eating breakfast, when Largo would stroll in and hold court.
"so keesee, what are you climbin today?"
"Gram Crackers", I'd say
and he would go... "ho man- time to set the bar a bit higher... you need to do Rebolting, be a man!"
He said it with confidence and authority, he made you believe it was possible. ..... and sometimes it was!
Thanks again John, hope to see you around.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 24, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 24, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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Mr. Long is a piece of steel.
He's also a teddy bear.
Yu write grate, sir.
Thenk yu.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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May 21, 2018 - 09:13pm PT
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Superior to all that political stuff ...
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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May 22, 2018 - 11:52am PT
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Chiseled Brisket, to say the least.
Brains and brawn.
Largo is a legend and a genius all in one.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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May 22, 2018 - 12:27pm PT
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Hope all goes will with your daughter in Venezuela, as a dad I know this is your top priority!
Cheers Matt
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 22, 2018 - 08:04pm PT
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I had a contractor working in my house today, so I started re-reading
The Stonemasters. What an incredible book about some really incredible people!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 22, 2018 - 08:12pm PT
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Quite a legacy...both his climbing and his writing.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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May 22, 2018 - 08:17pm PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 26, 2018 - 08:52am PT
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Whatz John Done?
Only,
Everything
& then some
Never sayin'
"I feel my job here is done",
Or,
"its been fun, to inspire"
those who can too
To write too
Then too, Im a fan but not buying into mind-knot-set.
Eternity is proved by Entropy not motion beyond comprehension. . .
while the -All that water over that falls-(was a swift water swimmer)
so long ago,
all those miles of smiles,
and
still be his huckleberry
To be his 'berry chase a dream.
Adventure be the name
Yes you can
Pay the man, We all need a scheme
If you've got a golden fleece
your sheep will follow
Lil' Bo' Peep
not in his foot steps
he has to large feats
& I too, wear Cos-nnix shoe size
Also to bad
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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May 26, 2018 - 09:02am PT
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Thanks, T Hocking. I too was thinking about John's family this morning and including them in my thoughts and prayers.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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May 26, 2018 - 10:57am PT
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I love Largo’s writing but am mostly jealous because he still has some hair on the top of his head.
But seriously, I hope he and his family return home safely.
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Clatterstan
Trad climber
High Desert, Ca
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Jun 10, 2018 - 05:49pm PT
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In 1991 I believe, A16 in West LA was having their sidewalk sale. A friend tagged along, because he wanted a book on beginner climbing. We visited the climbing shop and looked at two books; Rockcraft by Chouinard and a new book How to Rock Climb! by John Long. I asked the sales clerk which book he'd recommend? The muscular guy standing beside the sales clerk chimed in recomending the new John Long book. We met John Long and bought his book and had a good laugh! His How to Rock Climb video was funny-especially the sobbing/distracted belayer!
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Jun 10, 2018 - 06:16pm PT
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John Long was nice to me when most would not have been.... not because of what i did, but because of his own integrity and good nature.
Hats off Largo!! When is the next book??
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jun 11, 2018 - 07:06pm PT
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I don't know if I've posted on this thread before. BITD I bought his books and devoured his articles. He was truly larger than life, along with the Bird, Lynn Hill and others. Now that I'm older I understand he is human, as are the others.
Cheers John for giving yourself to us. And thank you for staying a part of this forum.
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