Training tips by Stevie Haston

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Messages 1 - 61 of total 61 in this topic
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 7, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
some cool&inspiring training tips by Stevie Haston
http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/p/training.html
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Mar 7, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
Thanks Laurence! Welcome to the Taco.

Maybe you can get Stevie on too. You are both quite an inspiration and must have some great stories to share.
tarek

climber
berkeley
Mar 7, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
actually...first one or not, thanks for the post!
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
Thanks Kunlun_shan and Tarek
I'm new in forum I thought it was nice to be sharing...we are not a business....
Have fun and climb well
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
Thanks Locker :)
Did like the pic...
Snorky

Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
Mar 7, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
Hi Laurence. I personally think it's OK for people to join SuperTopo and make an initial climbing-related post.

I like Stevie's style, thanks for the link!
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
Even better with the cat... :)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 7, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
Thanks for joining in!

It would be fun to hear about some of your collective softstone escapades like freeing Standing Rock if you would care to expand upon the stories in Crusher's superb Desert Towers book.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1278359&msg=1761517#msg1761517
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
I'll get a few words from Stevie( he is in Malta at the moment opening some new routes). We had a lot of fun and epics freeing some of the Desert towers...specially for me as a froggie who couldnt climb cracks at the start...use to turn 5.10 into 5.13 but turned out that I really like it and the Desert is my favorite climbing area...
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Mar 7, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Hi Laurence, I first met Stevie at Crusher and Fran's house back in the Derek days. Then I've crossed paths with you and Stevie at Vail, on the Grand Capucin several years ago, and at the summit telepherique station for the Aiguille de Midi. I even crossed paths with you (sans Stevie) when I was in Chamonix. We were walking down to town after climbing on the Plan, and you were doing what looked to be a grueling run up the same steep trail.

I hope you're both well, and still getting after it.

Cheers!
Brad White
Boulder
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
Hi Brad, yes I remember..it used to be my lunch break when I used to work at the Patagonia store...Hope you are doing well and still climbing great...we are keeping up with old age...I'm a Kundalini yoga teacher now, more layback but very good for climbing. Hope we will make it back to the States&the Desert...
cheers
Laurence
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 7, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
Some cool stuff there! Thanks for linking to the taco. Maybe drop a link on widefetish, as well?
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
Thanks! :)
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Mar 8, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
Stevie is an animal.
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
I agree, and he is not calming down at 54...
:)
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Mar 8, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
Hey, Thanks a lot, relevant stuff that's actually readable!
He's got great style.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 8, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
He's got great style.

I agree with that!

Great reading him, and stuff actually makes sense. I read about 7 of his training tips articles now and find them very useful.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Mar 8, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Thanks for linking it, I read all of the articles in that section. A suggestion: the bold typeface is difficult to read after a while, hard on the eyes.

The content is great.
Spike Flavis

Trad climber
Truckee California
Mar 8, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
Thanks for the link. Cool Blog! Let me take this chance to promo my own training blog.

Click here.

Thanks, SF
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2012 - 03:16am PT
Thanks for the comments, Cool blog Sf love the Apollo(Stevie will be so jealous when he see them!)

:)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 9, 2012 - 10:45am PT
Spike Flavis

You have a great blog. I have followed it for a while, but you need to post more! : )
Simmons peak is on my to do list thank to your blog FYI-"elegance of a Halston dress and the aggressiveness of a metal-studded dog collar." Gotta do it. Read that book too.
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2012 - 11:51am PT
Thanks everybody! Stevie added a bit more on training now...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 16, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
Stevie and Laurence!
Nice to see you are both still at it!

Cheers,
Roy




Photos from Château Lefkoff in Les Houches and a restaurant in Cham, circa 2000.

You can see Cindy with Stevie in the first photo.
Stevie and I are in the second photo.
Stevie with his daughter, then left to right: Cindy, Kiyoshi, Nori, Kyle, Laurence, myself and Lisa in the third photo.
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2012 - 02:32am PT
Hi Roy, Hope you&Lisa are well! Nice to see the photos from Les Houches!!! We all look young in those pics!!!
take care
Laurence&Stevie
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2012 - 10:22am PT
More Training....

http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/06/blog-post.html





Thomas

Trad climber
The Tilted World
Jun 25, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
This stuff is completely brilliant!

Any climber can connect with the insight that Haston has to share. He is very good at getting inside your head and planting that seed for the next step. Haston helps you help yourself to stay psyched.

If you are not reading this stuff you are genuinely missing out...which leaves the rest of us stronger...

Cheers!
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
Hi Thomas,
thank you so much for your compliments, I'll pass it on to Stevie and he will be very happy, he needs encouragements himself, he is going for a good year and he is frighten that it will be his last..
Best
Laurence
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
More on training and elbow pain...
http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/06/sore-elbows-pull-ups-and-climbing-by.html
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 30, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
Nice link on elbow pain: neutral grip and rowing exercises with dumbbells as a way to get out of irritation.

I'm thinking the Bachar Ladder cooked a lot of us BITD.
Sometimes the body would rotate and I think this was helping to get to neutral. But perhaps altogether too much single arm work with that apparatus?

Roy


PS: Laurence,
Lisa still trains like a fiend. She just got back from running long repeats at 14,000 feet on Mount Evans.
I.e. 3.5 miles from below summit to top, then: 2.5 miles, 1.5 miles, 1 mile, .5 mile
(sorry I can't express that in kilometers, still a Yankee, you know)
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2012 - 06:11am PT
Hi Roy, Lisa looks like she's doing well!!

here some fun training....

http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/07/this-cheered-me-up-by-stevie-haston.html
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2012 - 07:06am PT
Hi Roy,

It's the reverse movement on the Bachar ladder and the campus board and even pull ups that does the most damage to the tendon insertion. The negative phase of all exercise should be undertaken with the most care. Lisa is a total animal isn't she!

Stevie
pimp daddy wayne

Gym climber
Manchester, VT
Jul 1, 2012 - 09:57am PT

LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2012 - 06:15am PT
Shoulders&climbing....


http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/07/shoulder-impingement-in-climbers-by.html
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 5, 2012 - 10:26am PT
Yes, the deadly eccentric contractions (reverse movement) single arm full body weight. If done cautiously, with dumbbells (and in limited number and under the right conditions, as in physio-therapy) ... also pretty good for strength training as well?

As to the Alisha Weber egg-on-spoon-in-mouth while doing pull-ups and single arm push-ups. Wow! Maybe start with a hard-boiled egg ... And that incline/decline (hands 18 inches below feet) single arm push-up looks hard on the low back.

Per the Bill Ramsey (52 yrs old) 5.14b birthday video. If it's the same Bill Ramsey, I remember him coming down from Smith Rocks, BEFORE the sport climbing started happening up there. So the commonality between Bill and Stevie is that they both have most of the original hair on their heads? Hmmm. Training secrets of the fit and famous. Got it. Ha ha.

(Yes, thanks, Lisa is still setting PR's during uphill running races, but now that she's 47, the young things are starting to take the wins from her on stuff like Pikes Peak Ascent (13+ miles, 7000+ vertical feet, 14,000 foot something summit)
Coach77

Gym climber
Sierra Nevada, CA
Jul 5, 2012 - 11:05am PT
The real deal - Inspirational! No gimmicks - no bull sh#t. He pretty much tells you it's about spirit, determination and motivation. Stevie is also hilarious! Check this out..........Thanks Stevie - I met you once out in The Creek with Heavy Duty...aka Alan The Brit. Good stuff!
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2012 - 05:59am PT
Thank Coach 77, I remember when we met....long time, we miss the desert!


here more on shoulders....

http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/07/more-on-shoulder-impingement-in.html
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 8, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
Thanks again, and bump for some good tips/humor.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 8, 2012 - 11:45pm PT
Some nice detail in the last shoulder link.
What is the name of Haston's furry sparring partner?

(photo from Stevie Haston blog)
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2012 - 09:33am PT
More on Pull-ups...

http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/07/pull-ups-and-their-variations-by-stevie.html
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2012 - 09:34am PT
That rabbit was called Iggy, he is in rabbit heaven now....

LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2012 - 11:44am PT
More on training, when you think you don't have it anymore....I like that one!
http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/07/bite-bullet-not-pillow-by-stevie-haston.html

And Congratulations to Brooke Raboutou for her first 8c at 11!!! Amazing!
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2012 - 09:49am PT
More on training, looks like age doesn't stop us.... I've hardly climbed for 2 years, and Kundalini Yoga as kept me as a very good level...so time for me too...to train for climbing with the yoga to...
I'm amazed how yoga has improved my climbing, not just on the flexibility, coordination, core...but mainly on the breathing and being focus and in neutral mind....seems to get rid of blocs like fears....I've found that I save more on my strength....

Laurence

http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/08/training-progression-and-progressing.html

LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 07:39am PT
I just up dated Stevie's training page, more to get inspired for some more traning, more fun and success!
Enjoy!

http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/p/training.html
Borut

climber
french, spider, cheater
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:03am PT
Salut Laurence!
Thanks for posting all those links. Exactly the type of inspiration I need right now.

We met at the party after Stevie showed the film in Ljubljana. Great memories! - and Tomaž was still there. Maybe you'll remember me - tall, french spoken, oldish. Stevie told me to "be care full". I stick to that.

You are great people!

Santé!

LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 08:16am PT
Hi Thanks, yes I remember! Nice evening, and a memorable party! Nice memories of Thomaz...."I'm just a tourist!!!!".... so many friends are gone now....
Keep training and climbing and have fun!!!!
Laurence
Borut

climber
french, spider, cheater
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:25am PT
...have fun!!!!
yes mam!

Mes hommages à Stevie!

A+, maybe

Borut
Spike Flavis

Trad climber
Truckee California
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:29am PT
Very cool!

Makes me feel like I've been slacking off

Thanks.

www.garagegymtraining@yahoo.com
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 09:33am PT
Merci Borut!,
Stevie est à Malte pour l'hiver.....je vais le voir à Noel.....de nouvelles voies à Malte....je le salue pour toi ce soir!!!

LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 09:34am PT
Hi Spike, easy to feel slack with Stevie!!!! :)
Cool Apollo 20KG.....that'll make Stevie jealous!!! :)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 28, 2012 - 11:07am PT
Thought I couldn't do it this morning, shoulder was bad, nothing in the basement, useless. Got up, coffee, put on some music, did 1000 pull ups, with some good stuff.
Finger strength is up,
power is up
endurance is up

Love it!
How do you those pull ups? Reps of what? With how many minutes of rest usually?
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
Hi, thanks,
Stevie does his 1000 very fast, rep of 40 to 5/10 depending on the size of the holes/edges...
I take a couple of hours...(though I haven't done a 1000 for a while...)
Rest a bit in between sets....not to long....
It's good to start easy with 300 then make sure you rest properly before your next section, resting is a key... and go to 400.....depending on your form, no need to send yourself to hospital or get injured.....
Stretch before and after the session,
most of the time we add press ups to....at the end of the training....
Now I mix a bit of pull ups with dead hangs....it seems to work better for me....Yoga has helped me with my climbing I don't need to be as strong as I used to....it helps me in flexibility, coordination, peaceful mind, and I breath better....I'm amazed how much it has change my climbing, ability to move, and use less strength.
good luck....
Laurence
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 28, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
What type of yoga? I heard there are several types. Again, thank you for tips.
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
The yoga I do&teach is Kundalini Yoga, lots of pranayama(breathing) and a good work on your mind....and super good for your core.....Most yoga are very good, I found that one very complete....you don't have to be super flexible to start....it's not just a yoga about postures, it's very physical, mental and spiritual....
You have to make your own experience and find the yoga&teacher which work for you!
I'm working on making a little program for climbers...
Best
Laurence
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
Here some fun exercises, cross press ups...working on core, shoulder and balance and some breathing for the one familiar with Agni Pranayama....

http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/12/cross-press-ups-by-stevie-cross-haston.html

Mees

climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
Very nice blog, so much knowledge, character and inspiration in there.
thanks for sharing!
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2012 - 09:49am PT
Thanks Mees!
Have fun..and success!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 13, 2012 - 10:33am PT
fun read...
...site is now bookmarked.

Ahh, to be 54 again. An inspiration still.
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
Dec 13, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
Stevie's site if fantastic with great humor as well as solid tips. Many thanks.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Dec 13, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
Stevie has a great blog and always gets a read from me. But Stevie... why can't we leave blog comments and waste all your training time as you type out answers to our silly questions?
LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
Thanks Ed, always great to be inspired! One of our great inspiration is a 72 years old friend, a very keen runner, when we met him his was 56 years old and we thought , waouh we would like to be like him when we will be 56! And now we would to like to be like him when we will be 72!!! (you can check on Stevie'e people page he is called Al Evans!) So I guess they will be more training tips coming the next few years!!! :)

Thanks J and Thanks Russ( that's exactly why you can't post comments, though you can email Stevie via his FB, he will answer...)


LaurenceGH

Sport climber
FRANCE
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
Here the post on Al Evans, 72 years old and super keen, so inspiring!

http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2011/03/in-chair-al-evans-by-stevie-haston.html
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