Stonemaster Stories, IX – The Eternal brotherhood

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 100 of total 100 in this topic
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 6, 2006 - 01:58am PT
The original Stonemaster Stories thread by John (Largo) Long started here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=145850&f=0&b=0 (208)

JL: Anyone out there with old (before, say, 1975) Stonemaster stories, I'd love to hear them as I'm slowly trying to put something together. Hearing other perspectives might help trigger some long lost memories. The Stonemasters were always as much a frame of mind as anything else, but what folks remember--especially in terms of anecdotes, or what they thought the Stonemasters actually were, or stood for--might help give some little shape to what feels like a very amorphous subject.



Pat had posted these great shots of Largo so I will make sure he sees them. A few weeks back we were commenting on what a great place on El Cap that was.


The Man




The Mission







Ho Man, the Dude



Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2006 - 01:58am PT
I thought I would share one of my favorite shots of Tobin Sorenson.






John Long had just done the first free ascent of Piasano overhang and we were all inching to give it a go. We had done a little research on the gloves and found the boxing variety was just a myth waiting to happen. A regular pair of leather work gloves with the fingers cut out gave the extra protection you needed when you had to throw your feet around putting all that weight on those rattler fist jams. The extra girth did help though and here Tobin added a few extra wraps of tape for good measure. Most of your effort was spent just trying to protect it and Tobin with his tenacious attitude got the furthest and almost pulled it off that day. It was a good day and a fond memory.
mastadon

Trad climber
Seattle
Apr 6, 2006 - 07:37am PT
That's a great shot Mike-he was quite a character. You've gotta wonder what he'd be doing if he were still around....
de eee

Mountain climber
Tustin
Apr 6, 2006 - 10:53am PT
Those gloves that JL used were slanderously referred to as "the bull whackers gloves." They (the gloves) lurked along the trail somewhere (or was it Humber?) for a while after the famous ascent.
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2006 - 11:24am PT
Don, my guess is the Middle East would be a different place. He was quite crafty in his bible smuggling.

As far as climbing he continuously surprised us day to day but I’m pretty sure the Himalayas where on the list. He had told me after his trip to Peru and every thing he soloed down there he was surprised how comfortable he was with high altitude.

Dave, funny about the gloves never heard that. He should have hung them on a hook up at the overhang the next to the spurs.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 6, 2006 - 02:08pm PT
Nice shot..Gawd we were all so young - back in the day.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 6, 2006 - 03:02pm PT
In Part 8, we were discussing the poaching and chopping of routes...

And, while I agree with Randy that some of that was a long time ago and "water over the dam", it still rankles some. Obviously. When you're young and full of vinegar, that territorial imperative is pretty stong, I guess. (...gives a whole new meaning to "marking your territory".)

And speaking of "marking"... While not quite the same thing (well, same but different), I can still remember how PISSED we were, the first time we saw the damage done to the boulders at Mt. Rubidoux. Not by chopping, but by the clean-up crews that went up there to remove the graffitti before the usual Easter Sunrise gigs on the hill. Now, in prior years, the City had cleaned up by sand-blasting--leaving fine white dust over all the the good problems that had seen some tagging that year. That wasn't too horrible. Many key dimes were violated, but that wasn't the worst...

The year that really pissed us off was when they got tired of sand-blasting and just painted over everything! The lazy bastards! Even worse, they mixed sand into the paint to try and blend the color with the rock. Damn. The cure was even worse than the disease. And I believe that the paint-overs weren't done by City Hall, but lazy volunteers who had not a clue. Does anyone remember what year that travesty started?

Here's a pic from Teflon before it got even worse:


And you should see it now! (BTW, anyone know the man and boy in the background? I don't, but that's a pretty stout problem to start the kid on.)

This is really petty compared to what the Stoney lads have to endure, but I just HATE that paint! And that piss-poor practice continues to this day. I swear though... After this Easter is over, I'm taking some paint remover and water up the hill and cleaning some of the more useful holds just to restore some of the old problems to a bit of their former glory.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Apr 6, 2006 - 05:27pm PT
After weeks of lurking and alot of entertainment, finally something I can comment on without sounding like a complete youngster (odd that nearly 20 years of climbing experience makes me a youngster in this crowd).

Anyway, as far as the paint at Rubidoux goes, it seems to me that at least some of it was already there in 90-91 when you and I were climbing there Robs. So it goes back into the 80s sometime.

One story I'd like to hear in more detail is the slab at Rubidoux (Flabob?) that kp did prior to a comp, and that no one could repeat, despite him putting tick marks on key holds. True?





de eee

Mountain climber
Tustin
Apr 6, 2006 - 05:37pm PT
This was before it went free and the should-be-famous Todd Skinner episode took place.
Picture taken by Craig "Guns" Fry.
TC

Social climber
No matter where you go, there you are.
Apr 6, 2006 - 05:37pm PT
Robs,
Upthread on Teflon that's Joe Sheehy and his son, Collin. Joe is retiring from teaching this year and Collin is a fireman in Lucerne Valley. The globe is spinning too fast!

-Tony
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 6, 2006 - 05:46pm PT
is "teflon" the same thing as "in the picture"? i recognize the problem in that picture, i think -- couple dimes moves to a super-thin tips crack, then stright up over a tiny overlap on huge, sweet patina buckets? sorta OTD, but not too bad? did it last winter, the paint's a drag but the problem is still fantastic...
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 6, 2006 - 08:07pm PT
No, Bob. In the Picture is just a cute little variant of Overexposed, both of which are right of Teflon. However, Teflon and Overexposed are both parts of a well-balanced diet at the Lower Lot. Those two help keep ya regular.

Hi, Pranke! Glad to see you venture out of lurkdom. Still a youngster, though... I remember the painting started in the mid '70s. At least 15 years before the timeframe you recollect.

And we'd best hear it from the horse's mouth, though, re. Flabob. (Actually, I think KP would pronounce it "fLAY-bob".) On the Superstar slab. 'Twas only worth 19 points in the '84 contest. Same as Coathanger; same as Pink Bug; same as The Ex. And Bullethead got 20 points--the hardest prob. in the contest. (Now, looking back on the bouldering map for that contest, I'm thinking that Vogel's got a lot to answer for.)

Come on, de eee. Out with the story on the B&W above! Who, what, when and how. (You can skip the why part, since there'd be no acceptable answer.) Every picture deserves a story.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 6, 2006 - 10:04pm PT
(Now, looking back on the bouldering map for that contest, I'm thinking that Vogel's got a lot to answer for.)

Let's take him out back and... Oh never mind.





Actually, I can't take credit for that bit of sandbagging (as much I just love to sandbag)--- Blame KP and Henny for the ratings, I just drew the maps, etc.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 6, 2006 - 11:16pm PT
Just an accomplice, eh? Still culpable.

I don't think I ever knew that those two had a hand in that. (And they were always blaming you! ;-p) So who's really to blame for all the naming? I contend that more than 30 percent of the problems listing in that contest had names that nobody had seen before that day!

And then there was that problem down near the Wall of Glass, that day. Bunches of lads were rallied around some steep slabby thing that was worth, like, 17 points. Few wanted to risk a fail on their card, but it was a tantalizing, big-points plum. Since I wasn't competing, it seemed only fair to point out that it could also be done by just stepping back about 20' and having a running go at it. Within about 10 minutes, a dozen guys had snagged the easiest seventeen points on the hill. (The Devil made me do it.)
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 6, 2006 - 11:29pm PT
rmuir, it is still possible to climb teflon, with all that paint? anyone done it lately? i might loop by there late next week, heading from san diego up to josh for the ritual trashing of dimes' crib....
Dimes

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 7, 2006 - 12:06am PT
Flabob-named after the airport at the base of the west side of the mountain where we would occasionaly wander over too after a bouldering session for a chocolate shake and a side of fries at the grill. Very rustic and well, sorta weird. In the middle of the 84 contest there was a guy who went over the edge and was threatening physical harm over the ratings. Seems emotions were running a bit on edge over some of the names also. It's a wonder I made through the day unscathed. So, Flabob was originally rated 11d. Can't remeber if Henny or I did it first. A great problem for those of us who love that nebulous small hold climbing and one not often repeated.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 7, 2006 - 12:07am PT
Guilty.

If my failing memory serves me right (wouldn't bet on it), it might have gone something like this:

KP: Buddy, check this rig out; totally henous.

DH: What's this smack? Those edges are huge, you could bivy off them.

RV: So...How hard do you reckon boys? [Making a futile effort of cranking the first move -- feels like B1]

KP: Wadda say Henny, 10c?

DH: Say what? 10c! Dude, 5.9 on the outside.

RV: OK, how many points?

DH: 8 maybe, and that's being generous.

KP: Are you crazy, 8 points! How about 7.

RV: Err, I thought that 8s were supposed to be easy. Nobody will be able to even do that thing. Get real.

KP: 10

DH: 10

RV: 10? [Secretly marks it down as 14].
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 7, 2006 - 12:16am PT
KP said: A great problem for those of us who love that nebulous small hold climbing

Yep. Ranks right up there with its neighbor, Coathanger. And, take a number. There're long lines on both of those.

Vogel, LLP, said: [Secretly marks it down as 14]

See kids... That's how you get started in a life of crime! (Knowing the notoriety of those two arch criminals, he should have at least given it an "18"!) Let this be a lesson to you all.

If you can't do the dimes, don't do the line.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Apr 7, 2006 - 12:27am PT
Hohoho man!!! Is the BS getting thick here or what? I'm obviously going to need to set the Rubidoux facts straight here in a minute. But first...

The picture of DE is on the South Face of Suicide. Knockin' on Heaven's Door to be exact. That pitch was first led free by KP when we did it in 79. But we didn't do the last pitch, which is shared by Hades. KP and I did the first pitch of Hades the next year. At that time we named it "Touching the Earth" but Largo renamed the complete route "Hades" when he freed the second pitch, which was fine by us. There was a good post about Hades by John a few threads back. The Skinner story concerned Hades and wasn't really about the pitch that DE is on in the picture. Knockin' was a great time. Lots of good stories came out of that one.

Yes, Teflon can still be done in spite of the paint. In fact, all of the problems in the area can still be done. They routinely are by a lot of people. They're just harder.

bvb? Were you actually planning on sneaking into our house without telling us that you were coming? What's with that, dude? Tell me when you'll be there and I'll make sure Muir and Powell are there as a welcoming committee. We got some problems for you babe. You better bring a lot of bags, cause we got a lot of sand...

rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 7, 2006 - 12:36am PT
Dunes full.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Apr 7, 2006 - 12:40am PT
Yeap, about as much as the Sahara has.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 7, 2006 - 12:46am PT
don't TOY with me, henny. you mess with the BULL, you'll get the HORNS. did pinkbug on my third try last christmas vaca. sure, being 6'2" with a +2 ape index helps, plus beyond-perfect conditions, but i still got game, you know what i'm saying???

OB(Original Boulderer)WOODSONSANTEESOCALFLYWEIGHT4LYFE!!!!!!!!

hoping to go to san diego mid-week, hang a day or two, drive up to KP's on thursday with a quick stop at the 'do on the way. if this plan comes to pass, you can bet i'll post advance notice. i hate shredding up another local's area without them being there you get burned off, know what i'm sayin'?????@!!?11?>?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 7, 2006 - 12:49am PT
sketchy: your description of the imaginary dialogue between KP and DH bagging the grades was so spot-on the wife got out of bed to see what i was laughing so hard about. that's exactly what those guys sound like.....!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Apr 7, 2006 - 12:53am PT
OK, one thing at a time. Vogel, I can't believe you. I mean, really. I can't believe you actually have the nerve to call US sandbaggers. That's like the rooster calling the hens chickens. I don't even vaugely remember downrating even one single Rubidoux problem. They are what they are. Just giving them high ratings doesn't somehow make them harder than they are. Sometimes reality is a drag but there's not much we can do about it.

OK bvb, now you're starting to upset me...
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 7, 2006 - 12:58am PT
Henny, birds of a feather...
henny

Social climber
The Past
Apr 7, 2006 - 01:13am PT
Regarding the Coathanger. The year before (at the first Rubidoux contest) we had eye-balled the problem but didn't have time to try it. But, being the generous guys we are we put the problem in the contest as the bonus problem. At 25 points. Not even one taker. We couldn't understand it. A golden opportunity for someone to rob the locals of a plum and no one even took the bait. We did the problem following the first contest and found out that we would have been giving someone a bunch of extra points for absolutely nothing. The next year we fixed that and the problem was in the contest at its correct rating of 19 points. Funny thing though... Woodward did it and swore it was downright HORRENDOUS. He never could seem to figure out how it went from 25 to 19 points in one year. (Let's see, the problem decreased in value by 6 points in one year. Given that rate of decrease, the problem would be worth something like a whopping -113 points if there was another contest this year.)

Regarding Flabob. During the contest rumors started to run rampant that problems that didn't even go were in the contest at 19 points (Flabob was one of them). This seemed to piss KP off for some reason. He snapped and went down to Flabob where he used the toprope and marked every single hold (the tic marks: true) and even gave the sequence out to anyone who would listen. There was still nobody that sent. I know, sad, but some of the problems were sterilized with a TR for the contest. Hey, part of the thrill of Flabob was the landing and the odds that you would go down the hill... And probably more than once...

sketchy: Birds of a feather? Maybe so...

muir: How far would you need to run to get up the Coathanger?


henny

Social climber
The Past
Apr 7, 2006 - 01:32am PT
Now, back to you bvb. Here's a good single day 10 problem circuit for you that I did: Bullethead, Highbrow, Smultzie's Demise, The Ex, The Pink Pug, In My Time of Dimes, Funky Later, Middle of the Road Madness, Flabob, and Mantlelectomy. The biggest problem is having enough tips to finish them all.

Seriously, if you go to the 'do you should let us know. Maybe some of us could make it. There's a few problems that you don't want to miss, for sure.

And I don't doubt that you still got game. The question is, you got enough game? It's all about who's still standin' when the dumptrucks finally run out of sand...

Tell you what. If the above circuit isn't hard enough for you, here's one that I would really like to do sometime. Flabob, Middle of the Road Madness, Bullethead, The Ex, Pyschoanalysis, The White Bowser, Hair Trigger, 10b On the Outside, Coathanger, and The Octopus. Go for it!
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 7, 2006 - 11:38am PT
Now, Henny Penny... You're loading some high-quality sand into that poor boy's bag there! (Danger, Will Vanbelle! Danger!)

Chicken, you should start Vanbelle off on some easier Rubidoux classics. Something like, say, Middle Triple Crack (as it was called in the 1984 Bouldering Contest map) up near Smooth Sole Wall. Fry calls it the Center Crack in his guide. After all, it's only 10a.

But, of course, that's using BOTH hands. Bob, for the bigger sandbag, put that onto the regular circuit as a one-hander (right hand only). Talk about a parlor trick! And that's been on the Rubidoux standard tour for thirty years.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 7, 2006 - 12:19pm PT
hey, i did hardy boys on my 2nd try with mike paul in '77 or '78. does that get me extra credit, or better yet a stay of execution on my death sentence?

henny, of that list you mentioned, the only ones i've done (that i know of) are pinkbug and in my time of dimes. 10b on the outside sounds familiar, but you know, i've never really had a proper tour -- always wound up wandering from boulder to boulder with the san diego posse, scoping lines and trying stuff. i'd enjoy a proper tour very much, even if i do end the day with sand in my teeth and fire retardant all over my face....

roubidoux and santee: twins, seperated at birth? discuss.
G_Gnome

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Apr 7, 2006 - 03:03pm PT
Naw, Roubidoux hurts way more than Santee. I actually like bouldering at Santee, I get spanked and have my fingers ripped off at that other place. Of course it could be that I was with KP and Waugh at the time and there are no two bigger sandbaggers than them.
TC

Social climber
No matter where you go, there you are.
Apr 7, 2006 - 03:28pm PT

Cycling togs, wool not lycra. That's going back.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 7, 2006 - 03:31pm PT
ok, now I am starting to remember why I never played with you guys back in the day... not that I could have climbed at your level... but, you all are arguing over the subjective difficulty of a bunch of boulder problems assigned points in some 30+ year old competition? the honor of it??

...anyone else care to provide some perspective?

looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 7, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
Ed, its just a warm up. People are getting limber and staging the set-ups before the big slander fest.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 7, 2006 - 04:00pm PT
shorttimer, if you didn't get your tips shredded to ribbons at santee, you were not given a "proper" tour of the more "amusing" problems. santee has some slice n' dice razors that you get one or two chances on, then you'll be looking at fine, surgically-precise incisions right across the top third of your pads that go right down to the meat. oh YEAH baby, bring on the dimes!!!
rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
Apr 7, 2006 - 04:00pm PT
Ed,

'Cause it's f*cking funny, man! Three of the biggest
sand truck drivers ever to wear tight shoes (not that there
is anything wrong with that) arguing over a problem that
NO one is going to do is hysterical. More so if you can hear Henny
clucking, Powell moaning and Randy explaining to everyone EXACTLY
how the world works.
G_Gnome

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Apr 7, 2006 - 04:04pm PT
We should all adjourn to the 'sick midgets wall' this summer to see who can still bring it. Bob, you aren't qualified to climb there so you can be the judge. And Waugh is excluded cause he is a mutant.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 7, 2006 - 04:11pm PT
so...you saying the sick midgets wall is all, like, 5.9's and 5.10's? i could wear my converse all-stars if ya wanna even out the odds a bit....


rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 7, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
Ed. Don't for a minute believe that anyone posting here believes in the remotest possiblity of an objective rating system for bouldering problems. V, B, YDS or points, it means nothing at all. As Randall states, we're just stretching. (Both the truth and the slander muscles.) Just sit back and enjoy the show. We'll try not to hit anyone in the cross fire.

Just a wee bit o' fun.

And for gawd's sake, don't take any of this personal (or serious)... We certainly don't.



"It all means nothing at all, and, howling for his milky mum, for her cawl and buttermilk and cowbreath and Welshcakes and the fat birth-smelling bed and moonlit kitchen of her arms, he'll never forget as he paddles blind home through the weeping end of the world."--Under Milkwood by Dylan Thomas.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 7, 2006 - 04:18pm PT
thanks... that it explains it... I thought you might all be serious...

but everyone who knows me knows how literally I take this stuff.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 7, 2006 - 04:21pm PT
ed, anybody can climb hard. the real contest here is who can sling the best, funniest, most merciless and ruthless slander in the shortest possible period of time.

it goes without saying, i suppose, that i'm winning.
Dimes

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 7, 2006 - 04:29pm PT
Hey Bolton, I was thinking about building a sand castle with windows in it that you can roll up. Any thoughts?
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 7, 2006 - 04:30pm PT
"it goes without saying, i suppose, that i'm winning."

bvb's having one of those flashbacks that they promised would happen! Sweet dreams, Bob.
Dimes

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 7, 2006 - 04:39pm PT
So, in regards to all the sand at Rubidoux you might ask, where did it all come from? One needs only to look down into the nearby river bottom to discern the motivational reason. It was a constant reminder that many of lifes secrets can be found in a mere grain of sand or in many grains bonded together to form a small scathing dime edge capable of cutting flesh, shoe rubber or a mans ego.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 7, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
mom, is that you??
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Apr 7, 2006 - 05:16pm PT
"bvb's having one of those flashbacks that they promised would happen!"

Some people have alll the luck.

"They must be really out there to leave their door unlocked like that."
rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
Apr 7, 2006 - 05:25pm PT
Dear Moaner (Dimes)

I know you and and that other stringy piece of meat (Hensel) want me to out the story of one of the most hideously brutal bagging sessions to ever have been survived by a human being. Being dragged from "the muzzle loader" to "the Hug-me" to "roll up the window" to "10b on the outside" to "tail gunner" to...Jeesus. Thirty years of therapy have got me back on solid food again and not crapping my pants nearly as much. And you want me to go through all that again? You're a mean, cruel, little man Kevin. I will have my revenge.

P.S.
Dougie Reed is right, Kevin.
You DO have a purdy mouth.


G_Gnome

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Apr 7, 2006 - 05:26pm PT
Bolton named the place 'the sick midgets wall' just because he is too tall to do the problems there. And the fact that he can't hang on to even the biggest holds might have been something to do with it. I hope he is training for the new year though cause worse problems are gonna be exposed this year, I've been training hard.


On an entirely different topic.

Is there gonna be a massive bouldering session next Saturday before the mind enhancing substances come out later in the day?
Dave Tapes

Trad climber
Silverado CA
Apr 7, 2006 - 06:18pm PT
Speaking of the 84 contest or even any other like Santee. Does any one have the results and could you post them here? I seem to remember placing way better than I should have given the number of stone master sand baggers in attendence. That was a really fun time. DW
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 7, 2006 - 06:44pm PT
Wonderly, you must be joking. I imagine that even few if any of the T-Shirts from the contests have survived outside a landfill or rag bin. Good old Bruce P. (Kinaloa) made some spiffy designs.

After waiting a respectable time to see if any lawsuits were filed claiming injuries -- to body, psyche, or ego -- I tossed the paper stuff (waivers, etc.) out. We are talking ages ago.

You could try Raker. We set his new-fangled "portable computer" up in the upper parking lot using a rented generator to power the rig. Results were pronounced in record time. Even if the human eating machine still has the data, good luck finding a computer today that runs the program.

Any pack rats out there (Robs?) keep any of this stuff?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 7, 2006 - 07:05pm PT
shorttimer -- me and the tarbuster have been talking about a "classics" tour on saturday. warm up at the family boulders then on to the hard stuff. heh. it'd be fun to get a crew together -- maybe KP would refresh our memories for the sequence to "once upon a dime..."

rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 7, 2006 - 08:43pm PT
ShortTimer said, "I've been training hard" and "mind enhancing substances come out later in the day?"

Now we all know that you're really an OldTimer merely posing as a ShortTimer. Don't think, for a minute, that you're putting one over on the the adoring throngs of your fans. So after all this time, we'd have though you'd have copied from the Best of the 'Baggers™. Seriously...
1) Never, EVER admit to training! When you fail, you'll have no fall-back excuse. And it's been proven time and again that the most honed can reach the highest heights only after extensive couch time or, at least, daily laps on the Barkalounger--and never under the supervision of a professional trainer. Relaxed and rested is the key. (NEVER believe the addled fantasies of those aged Stonemasters; these guys are sandbaggers par excellance. THEY never trained. Gold's Gym never worked. Off the couch is your only ticket to the game!)
2) You got the order bass ackward, and got the priorities all wrong. And getting this fundamental thing right, again, is the key to reaching the highest heights.

and

Dear Mr. Vogel, LLP.
It has been brought to my attention that a one Mr. "looking sketchy there..." has besmirched my good name by publicly referring to me as a "pack rat". My reputation is at stake here. I pay you that exorbitant monthly retainer to protect me from such slander. As my 300-pound Samoan lawyer, I demand that you sue this bastard, immediately.
Not only do I not have any of the results in question, I want my day in court to set the record straight. The only thing I have left is that pitiful map and rating sheet; and I have witnesses to prove it. As you may recall, I did attend the so-called Rubidoux contest in question. But the dis-organizers banned me from competing that day which violated my fifth amendment rights, I believe. Can I still file a lawsuit claiming injuries? Statute of limitations? Please advise.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Apr 7, 2006 - 09:04pm PT
Muir, I think we (you, Powell, and myself) all need to get together and have Mr. Vogel the attorney file a class action suit (or however that works - Vogel please DON'T clarify) since all three of us were excluded from the contest by said Mr. "looking sketchy there...". Maybe he had different reasons for excluding each of us but the bottom line was still the same for each of us. We were all denied our right to the pursuit of the wealth and fame that winning said bouldering contest could have brought us had we been able to enter, and subsequently win. Yeah, our rights was violated, for sure. We oughta be able to get hugh amounts of $fins$ from Mr. "looking sketchy there..." as I hear that he is actually quite a wealthy person.

Hey, maybe you could continue retaining him in your behalf for above stated suit while concurrently joining the class action. That way you could rake double fins from the damn discriminator.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 7, 2006 - 09:07pm PT
i've been drinking whisky and watching t.v. all winter. it'll be a f*#king miracle if i can pull V2.

but i'm game....i'll give it the old college try. should we assign a point system to individual problems and play for 10 bucks a point? just a suggestion...
henny

Social climber
The Past
Apr 7, 2006 - 09:13pm PT
ummmm, do you actually have any money, bvb?
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 7, 2006 - 09:17pm PT
THAT'S the spirit, bvb!

Really!? Quite a wealthy person?? Good. I want his car and house. We can divide the rest among the other claimants in the class action. K?
henny

Social climber
The Past
Apr 7, 2006 - 09:21pm PT
I'm gonna be a wealthy man!!!! I'm about to hit the double mother lode. Once with Mr. "looking sketchy there..." and once with bvb. My lucky day indeed!
G_Gnome

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Apr 7, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
Someone either spent too much time keeping records, or is really good at picking dates out of the hat. Which one?
todd-gordon

climber
Apr 8, 2006 - 01:44am PT
You have to wonder,... is THIS route poaching(Poodle Smashers, etc.) a malicious , thought -out, planned thing done purposely to hurt someone else.....or just irresponsibile "teenager-types" with the inability to "wait" for everyone to get together for a project...?????..just over zealous, overanxious, ants-in-the-pants, uncontrolable hyperactivity????.......I believe it is the latter......(And with SOOOOOO many new routes..... just another pebble on the beach, or pissing in the ocean?????)
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 8, 2006 - 04:38am PT
american legend, beotches.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 8, 2006 - 11:46am PT
Gramicci’s portrait of Tobin, with his characteristic bowl haircut, and the mention of Tobin’s desire to go to the Himalalya, got me thinking of how the CIA spoiled a trip Tobin and I were planning to the Garhwal Himalaya, when it was first opened to climbing in 1978. I am not making this up.

When Tobin got back from Europe in January of 78, he asked me if I wanted to go climbing in the Himalayas. I was deep in my first year of law school and couldn’t commit to the planning and organizational effort, but Tobin insisted and said he would handle all of it; he even offered to raise money for my airfare. I couldn’t turn this down, so I joined a proposed expedition of four organized by John Thackray from New York and including English climber Pete Thexton. The goal was Thalay Sagar, a striking, 22,000 foot mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya. The peak had never been climbed at all, but the expedition was aiming for the spectacular north face.

Mike, you will remember Pete Thexton from the summer of ‘76 in Chamonix. He and his friend Howard gave you and I a lift in his Morris Minor to the Calanques, to escape a bad spell of weather in Chamonix. Pete later died on K2. But I digress.

A couple of months before the group was to leave, the expedition permit from the Indian government was revoked. The Indian government had just discovered that a climbing expedition from the US in the sixties, with secret sponsorship of the CIA, had planted a monitoring device on an Indian peak in order to spy on Chinese nuclear tests. The tale of that spy expedition has been recounted in Outside Magazine. In retaliation for this insult to Indian sovereignty, all permits to the region were revoked that year.

Thackray applied again to climb the peak the next year and he, Roy Kligfield, Jon Waterman, and Pete Thexton made the first ascent of Thalay Sagar in 1979 via the western face. In about 1997, Jay Smith (an early Stonemaster who cut his teeth at Tahquitz while attending Desert Sun School in Idylwild before becoming a renowned alpinist) along with Kitty Calhoun and Chris Noble, attempted the north face of Thalay Sagar and got within 750 feet from the summit.

That’s the story of how Tobin would have gone to the Himalaya, but for a cold war era, CIA plot.
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2006 - 01:06pm PT
Rick, good to hear that story. That plan must have been formulating right after you and Tobin did the FA of the Dru Couloir Direct… I had forgotten about Pete (that’s not a good thing) Seems like quite a few guys we met back then aren’t around anymore.

The gatherings at the Bar Nat’l in Chamonix in the evenings were good fun. Never too much bickering about the routes. Everyone was just happy to survive them. Although there was the occasional fist fight started from upstaging someone over some stupid parlor trick. And what about the Brits and their group sing-a-longs?

I’ll take the liberty to post a shot you took






Cool car when it ran. I’m holding some kind of broken part. Was Pete in his underwear or were those just swim trunks?
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 8, 2006 - 02:07pm PT
Mike- My most vivid memory of the Bar Nationale in Chamonix was that it was like a wild west saloon, or maybe the bar from Star Wars. Do you remember the night two Brits started punching, got in a clinch, and lurched toward the table where you and I were sitting? We both saw what was coming and lifted our glasses of beer just in time before the two guys toppled over our table to the floor. We righted the table, set our beers down and resumed our conversation, as the Brits wrestled their way out the front door, with shouted encouragement from the crowd. Reminded me of scene from a John Wayne movie or at least a spaghetti western.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 8, 2006 - 04:00pm PT
Yeah. And my Bar Nationalé incident of note was just after I had ordered a nice andouillette and chips, was sipping a nice beer, and the Bar gets a visit from a group of French gypsies, one of whom was doing a fire eating act for handouts. Huge maniac looking guy spitting flames. Naturally, I'm staring at this circus freak, and the guy charges up to our table obviously looking for a fight...

Now my French is for sh#t, but I can clearly make out that his pickup line is something like, "Wadya staring at, bud!" So I put on my best American tourist look, feign any knowledge of the language, and the guy's buddies pull him off since there'd be no fun in beating this foreign twerp. They then headed off to find some other roustabout for a good mash-up. Rough house on a Saturday night.

Most of the time, though, the Bar Nash was a pleasant café.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 9, 2006 - 10:02am PT
Rubidoux TR: Nice day in SoCal yesterday, some ground haze, but warm with bright sun. Decided to head to Rubidoux fully expecting to find some other climbers. (Even with a pad, it'd be nice to have a spot on the highballs.) By 09:30, the road was full of cars and was hard to even find a parking spot. There was even a SaR truck. Good omens.

Walked up the hill... Saw lots of families and "exercisers" out for a Saturday morning constitutional. The three SaR guys had strung about 15 cords off of the Black Block, but that was it. Not a single climber anywhere on the mountain! So what gives?

Granted, it's a weekend. And the first day of Spring Break for some, but still... Doesn't anyone boulder anymore? With 18,000,000 in this region, surely not all of them were at JT or Stoney Point were they? In the gym, instead?
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Apr 9, 2006 - 06:34pm PT
Baaaaahhhaaaahaaaaa. What a hoot. The banter between the SMs and bvb is down-right hilarious. As an impartial judge I would have to say bvb, eeks out into the lead. I'm hoping to be up at Rubidoux on Monday afternoon (4-10), then off to Bishop for the week.

You know bouldering has hit the mainstream --- when Disney's "California Adventure" Golden State Redwood Creek Challenge Trail has a bouldering traverse pit and the kids are lining up for it. 2 days of non-stop Disney/California Adventure with our little ones and I need a vacation . . .

RM-- They were all at the Golden State Creek Challenge Trail bouldering pit. I mean all of them!
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 9, 2006 - 07:51pm PT
Klimmer said, "They were all at the...bouldering pit. I mean all of them!

OK. Gym or artificial walls, then. Sheesh... This younger generation! Mickey Mouse climbers, all. ;-)

(You, Klimmer, an "impartial judge"? We'll be the judge of that!)
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 9, 2006 - 09:45pm PT
come bouldering with us on saturday, rmuir, and you can extract your revenge, reclaim your honor, empty my wallet, drink all the booze, and oogle the flock of twenty-something hotties that follow me around like groupies at a led zepplin concert.

and if you beleive that, perhaps you'll buy this watch....!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Apr 9, 2006 - 10:23pm PT
Woah, best you boys step back before you mess with BVB. As you can see, the man's got mad skilz...

Squamish 1988
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 9, 2006 - 10:43pm PT
THAT'S what the fukk I'M talking about. Who ya gonna call? I'm the go-to guy. bring it. i'm SWOLE.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 9, 2006 - 11:22pm PT
Vanbelle said, "come bouldering with us on saturday..."

Man. Are you gonna go to Disneyland too! Bouldering pit, indeed. I wanna go on that ride, but I'm not sure I've got any E-tickets left!
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Apr 10, 2006 - 12:21am PT
bvb-- Hey, I'll go to bat for all PMBs and San Diego home boys, but man you've got some splannin to do regarding that image 2 posts up. What the heck is that guy in red shirt doin?
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 10, 2006 - 03:31pm PT
related thread (sort-a)

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=178153&f=0&b=0
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 10, 2006 - 05:44pm PT
klimmer -- that's my #1 chief subbie, giving me a scrub with a wet-nap after i thought i was gonna hit the ground after whippin' offa that squamish choss pile.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 11, 2006 - 09:24am PT
Weather doesn't look too promising for the coming weekend. Sigh. Maybe one more shot of sunny days might help:

Autopilot at Mt. Rubidoux.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 12, 2006 - 08:07pm PT
Come on, Ricky. Post up that sweet-sixteen photo of JL in PAs at Rubidoux "drinking" highballs years before the Paint Job! We're waiting...
pyro

Trad climber
stoney point,ca
Apr 12, 2006 - 10:04pm PT
I guess my being born in 78' makes for me, the "spectator who wished I could of witnessed it but didn't".
that okay- I'll shut my mouth then read and ask questions later.
I'm proud to be a Stoney Point climber.
I'm honored to live near Yosemite and humbled to climb it's rock.
I most realy respect drinking coffee at Ahwanee.

The old timers are the best, because they made it a safe climbing habit so, my friends and I may play.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 13, 2006 - 11:11am PT
OK, Rick. I'll lead this pitch... (It looks a bit dicey and somewhat exposed. I don't know, man... Posting a shot of the Big Guy while he's still wearing diapers is risky at best.) Keep a tight rope there, bud! Ready? On belay? Watch me now! Stepping out...

Largo in PAs. The solution is Teflon (or, after careful inspection of the chalked holds, possibly a variation of In the Picture) at Mt. Rubidoux circa 1971-'72 maybe? Certainly before they started painting over the graffitti. (Photo courtesy of the Accomazzo Collection.)

Juxtapose this with the earlier photo, and you get the full perspective... All in all, a pretty classy piece of stone.


OK, Ricky. Off belay. Now it's your turn...
HighGravity

climber
Riverside, CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 05:21pm PT
rmuir wrote: Doesn't anyone boulder anymore? With 18,000,000 in this region, surely not all of them were at JT or Stoney Point were they? In the gym, instead?

In fact I'm headed up there today. I live a stones throw from Rubidoux and I'm up there (with the other young pups) climbing at least once a week. You should come out and show us noodle arms up.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 18, 2006 - 04:29pm PT
One more from the Accomazzo Collection™... JB proving, once again, that high fashion in the climbing world is timeless!

On Diamondman at Pirate's Cove, Corona del Mar.

(And, see... The JT Reunion really WAS a costume ball--white socks and jeans.)
Gunnar Swanson

climber
Greenville, NC
May 17, 2006 - 12:24pm PT
Rob—My attorneys inform me that the answer to your question is your salvation. If I did the drawings when we were in Berkeley together then it was December of 1974. That means that I would have needed to include a copyright notice to protect against your infringement so my dream of owning a nice house with giant avocado trees is dashed at least for now.

I was surprised to see the images. I hadn’t remembered that I did anything so derivative of Rick Griffin’s “Murph the Surf” that late in life. Griffin was one of the greats of the San Francisco psychedelic poster but before that he was the cartoonist for Surfer magazine. It was funny seeing my old scribbles because I had just designed a card about Griffin a few weeks ago.

I might as well join the nostalgia fest here. The napkin scribble trip started with my drive from Santa Monica to Concord (breaking the land speed record for an Opel Cadet) where I picked Robs up at his parents’ house. We wandered over to Berzerkley and visited my sister and looked at Indian Rocks. (I didn’t even know such a thing existed when I lived in Berkeley a few years earlier.) Then we headed to Tahoe to Jim Bridwell’s (?) house to celebrate New Years Eve. Armed with one quarter’s worth of Swedish classes, I taught everyone to chant “My health, your health, all the pretty girls’ health” while downing freezing cold aqua vit. (Who says a UCLA education doesn’t teach you anything?)

Then our lives were saved by German engineering. Someone had it bad for a local barmaid and wanted to move the party to a bar. We probably weren’t fit to walk but everyone insisted we go. Rob insisted that he was fit to drive after I declared myself totally f*#ked up. One of us reached for some dashboard control and managed to turn on the emergency blinkers while breaking the switch. Neither of us could figure out which fuse corresponded to the blinkers so we pulled the main fuse. leaned the seats back, and fell asleep in the car.

We headed into a new year by driving to Mammoth Mountain. On the way we went cross-country skiing. It was the first time I’d skied when it was cold enough for special green wax. (Since then I’ve lived in northern Minnesota during a cold spell so I used artic wax when special green was too sticky.) We had planned to stay at Ski Mart’s condo there but Rob forgot to bring the key so we camped in the garage.

On our first local bit of ice climbing we ran into Mike Graber and _ (Damn, I’m blanked on Black’s first name) and we invited them back to the garage and teamed up for a couple of days ice climbing. Graber woke us up in the morning with escalating hints that it was time to go climbing. The question “Does anybody know what time it is?” became the song by the same name, followed by a series of opening and slamming the garage door to exclamations of “What a great morning.” (Does anyone know what Mr. Noir is up to? He was heading off to med school at Tulane last time I knew. Last time I saw Graber was 25 years ago; he had come in ahead of me at the Mammoth Marathon; He was on his telemark rig.)

One day we went off to June Lake where the waterfall by the power plant was frozen solid. The middle pitch was all 85+ degrees. Except for a few feet of hollow, brittle stuff, it was perfect plastic and solid.

The trip’s Swedish theme continued when we sneaked into the sauna and hot tub at the condo complex next door. There was a Swedish girl and her American friend who had lived with her in Sweden who shared the hot tub. We told them I was taking Swedish in school. They started talking to each other in Swedish. I don’t know if they we talking about me or about all of us. The only thing I could understand is the Swedish girl saying that her friend should be careful what she said because I might understand and her friend replied that I didn’t understand a word they were saying.

I don’t remember if that was befrore or after the condo people came and asked us to put clothes on.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
May 17, 2006 - 03:38pm PT
Gunnar said, "...so my dream of owning a nice house with giant avocado trees is dashed at least for now." (In reference to his cartooning that was posted in "Stonemaster Stories" (Part 7): http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=169730&f=0&b=0 )


Well, Gunnar, I'm guessing you just need to find yourself a better class of lawyer! :-) (Damn those convoluted intellectual property laws!)

I'd totally forgotten about meeting up with Dave Black and Mr. Graber on that trip! Last I heard, Dr. Black was practicing medicine (hand surgery specialist or summat) in Florida...

Got any recent cartoons of Back In The Day™ that you'd care to post?

Dien schol, mien schol, alle vacra flickas schol! (Sp?)
Gunnar Swanson

climber
Greenville, NC
May 17, 2006 - 06:33pm PT
Rob—Recent cartoons of 30+ years ago would require both my starting to do cartooning again and my remembering what anything and anyone looked like. I can’t even do much better than others have already at guessing who might be depicted in the ones you posted. I think Tobin was obviously the prototype for one (based on the haircut) and the one character was probably based on John Long’s physique. Whether the others were archetypes or caricatures. . . you got me on that. I’m afraid the years have blunted my memory. I hadn’t remembered drawing them.

Speaking of not remembering, there probably aren’t more than a half dozen climbers from those days I’d know if we met so I don’t blame Gramicci for forgetting me. I think the last time I saw him may have been early spring of 1975. I’m guessing that I remember this right: Michael Dale and I had just skied across to Yosemite from Lee Vining and ran into Graham and Ricky (I think) who had just been climbing some ice at the top of Glacier Point. Minutes after they were done and skiing back down to the Valley, the waterfall they had been on collapsed spectacularly (unbeknownst to them.) Some people who had been watching them reported that it had fallen with climbers on it. I guess the rescue party that met them was much the same as the one from the previous fall's misadventure on the Prow (?). “Were they glad to see me!” Michael said with an enormous grin.

I ran into Yvon Chouinard a couple of years ago when I lived in Ventura. I said that we were old friends, having had a two-minute conversation in Camp 4 in 1974. He just muttered “1974?”

Your Swedish is spelled like German but I can barely spell in English and the toast requires at least on non-ASCII letter so I’ll let yours stand.
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2006 - 10:25am PT
Gunnar, its amazing what memories this thread pulls out. The ice fall collapsing event was something I never would have thought of again.

As I remember it was something like this…The players were Rick Accomazzo and I believe Tobin Sorenson and the route was upper sentinel falls. I remember the commotion with everyone as someone was running around saying the falls had collapsed. I had thought impossible that they were involved having seen them near the top long before the said event. I was concerned they were slightly overdue but still refused the thought of them perishing in a barrage of falling ice. When they showed up later we were all happy to joke with them about getting a little lost on the way out.

I later did the route with George Meyers and we found it quite intact. Ice climbing in the Valley can be quite exciting though. Kind of like waiting for big surf the way it comes and goes.

I do remember you around now, thanks for that.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
May 31, 2006 - 05:21pm PT
And, speaking of forgotten lads...

Bouldering TR:

Last night, Henny and I went bouldering in Baldy Canyon--one of the old haunts. It's the start of the Baldy season!

We went several weeks ago, and the stream was so high that we couldn't even cross the creek. The water innundated most of the usual rocks, leaving us to climb on only B-boulder! That was just fine, as the sand was quite high and falls didn't really even require a crashpad.

Last night, Baldy bouldering was better as a lot of the snow melt had receded enough so that we could cross back and forth in a few places. This time, we walked down to inspect things like Sole (Soul?) on Ice. Absolutely as smooth as we remember it! ...worked out some old/new problems on the rock just below it.

While there, I glanced back up at Soul and a single stray neuron fired in recognition which triggered the one word, "Ging". For some reason, I had associated that problem with "Ging".

Problem is, although both Henny and I can vaguely recall the name, and can almost see his face, we can't fit the name. Maybe he ran with the Goodykuntz crowd, but we're obviously too old to remember...

(I even gave Gramicci a call during lunch today... He too vaguely remembers a name like that, but that's the extent of it. ...guess Mike is "old" too. :o)

Sooo... Does /ANYONE/ remember an old Stonemaster named "Ging"? Anyone?
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
May 31, 2006 - 06:01pm PT
Ging Ginerich was another Uplander who grew up with Richard, Ricky and I but was a few years older. He lived in the upper foothills, a mile or so below Richard, and was on many of our original probes into 5.10 out at Suicide and, for while, a regular at Baldy, where he could do just about anything. We even climbed the Mendal Ice Collier with Ging (and the other Uplanders), circa 1972.

He had amazing talent but pretty much preferd his own company and after a strong initial showing he, like so many others, simply vanished into the ethers. In his day he could easily climb most of the harder Baldy problems bare footed, including a few I could rarely do in boots.

JL
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jun 2, 2006 - 12:21am PT
We hoped you'd have the answer Largo. Your pairing of a last name with "Ging" really rang a bell when I saw it. Now, if I could just get the face in focus...

Yes the Baldy season has started. What an absolutely great place to boulder! And talk about some slick rock!

A couple more Baldy questions:

1) Largo, you're not trying to tell us that Ging did Soul on Ice barefoot, are you?

2) OK, which one is it, Sole on Ice or Soul on Ice? Both are good names.

3) Robs and I were discussing the names of problems on Chuco. I think we agreed that two of the three primary problems were simply "left" and "right". Robs seems to remember that the center problem was also simply called "center", while I seem to remember it being called "Dark Side of the Moon" at one time for some reason. Largo???

4) Who's responsible for all those ice slick mantles?

hippyman

Social climber
London, England
Jun 5, 2006 - 06:13pm PT
Greetings to Gramici and Rick A, whoever you are - idly googling on a Monday night, and I find a picture of my brother Pete Thexton in his skivvies working on the engine of his magnificent Morris Traveller. Made my night - thanks for the memory.
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2006 - 08:31pm PT
Hippyman,

You made me realize just now, there is a priceless value with the internet.

We really enjoyed hanging with your brother back then. He was a great guy and that was a magnificent car!

I thank him for the memory where ever he may be. I’ll rescan that image and email you a copy.

Truly an eternal brotherhood!

Cheers,

Mike Graham
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Jun 6, 2006 - 04:35pm PT
What wasn't really clear during the recent exchange between "hippyman" and "Gramicci" was the very interesting story that Mike Thexton (a.k.a., hippyman) brings to the climbing table.

Hippyman (Mike Thexton) is the younger brother of Pete Thexton, cited up-thread, with a photo of him hunched over the engine of the old Morris. On Hippyman's website, see www.hippyman.com, you can read about what Mike Thexton is doing now, and read an excerpt of Mike's story that includes his older brother, Doug Scott, Greg Child, Whillans, Broad Peak and Pakistan. Specifically, see excerpt from Hippyman's book.

As Gramicci reports, Mike Thexton's adventures are "mind blowing!"
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jun 20, 2006 - 11:29am PT
I've only been following this forum for a few days now, but it's been so addicting that I've been staying up past my bedtime. JL's article in the latest issue of Rock & Ice is what prompted my googlage of the Stonemasters (what a great article!), and this forum has been like striking gold for me. Reading everyone's postings is like stepping back 30+ years, and is far more emotionally evocative than a high school reunion.

Though I was certainly never a Stonemaster, I rubbed shoulders with y'all on a regular basis. You inspired me, scared me, and were, overall, pretty cool to me and my other climbing partners. Some images that come to my mind are: Lynn Hill jogging with JL riding piggyback in Hidden Valley c'ground; Bachar telling me which size Friend I needed for the lower section of Left Ski Track before he quickly dispatched it free solo; having my bacon saved by Mike Graham and Rick Accamazzo (and another whose name escapes me) on Tahquitz during a huge, sudden snowstorm, following an accident with another guy in my party; Tobin at my cousin's wedding (tux and all) hucking dinner rolls at assorted guests during the reception; working Solid Gold on a day so hot that it felt like my EB's had been coated with Imperial Margarine; bouldering with Mike Paul and Greg Epperson at Woodson and Santee...fun stuff.

My older brother, John, and I, got started climbing at Woodson after seeing that Mike Hoover movie (Solo). We made our own gear, climbed with a cowboy rope, and cheated death (more by ignorance than by bravado) many times. John died this last year from complications related to leukemia and a lung transplant, but this forum has been really therapeutic for me to think back on those initial climbing days. The climbing community was so much smaller then. Thanks for all your postings.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jun 20, 2006 - 12:08pm PT
Mooser, ya should have posted up earlier!!!! You probably have some good stories to share! Send em baby, at least I would like to do some more reading on this subject. Sorry for your loss, your bro is probably bouldering with the boys in the eternal boulder field.
Peace
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 02:37pm PT
Mooser,

Thanks again for your email this morning. I kind of forgot Al Gore had something to do with the internet, thanks for the reminder. I would like to invite you and anyone else for that matter to visit/join STONEMASTER.ORG it’s not just an old folk’s home.

Cheers,

Mike Graham
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Jun 20, 2006 - 06:07pm PT
OK, folks. Time to move this along to a new thread...

Please continue posting to Part X of the Stonemaster Stories at http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=210947&f=0&b=0
Oddchick? Wingnut? Strangechick? Freakazoid?

Trad climber
Pollack Pines
Dec 17, 2007 - 12:54pm PT
Has this thread been updated?
Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
Dec 17, 2007 - 06:23pm PT
Yes, this and all other threads have been updated.
All the new stuff is over at www.SuperChalupa.com
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 17, 2007 - 06:29pm PT
Or you could look here:

Stonemaster stories
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=145850

Stonemaster Stories (Part II)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=150211

StoneMaster Stories (Part III) continued onward
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=155821

StoneMaster Stories (Part 4) continued onward farther
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=157408

StoneMaster Stories (Part 5) the epic continues
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=161148

StoneMaster Stories (Part 6) the epic continues
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=164782

Stonemaster Stories; Part 7-More of the same, only different
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=169730

Stonemaster Stories, Part 8; More Tales from the Crypt
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=173337

Stonemaster Stories, IX – The Eternal brotherhood
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=176623

Stonemaster Stories; Part X--What? Still more!?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=210947
graniteclimber

Trad climber
Nowhere
Dec 18, 2007 - 02:46am PT
Thanks for the index, Mighty Hiker.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 24, 2008 - 03:58am PT
Bump because some previous installments were bumped.

Peace

Karl
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 5, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
bump
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 16, 2013 - 01:15am PT
bump
Messages 1 - 100 of total 100 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta