The Man Who Can Fly- Dean Potter

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 119 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 6, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
Now he just needs to fire the lower pitches free and we will have the FA Free Solo of FreeRider.

bheller (from MPdotCOM) ...



The Huber variation boulder problem did experience some breakage... a large breadloaf like sloper broke off. It is probably solid v7 now. It can still be done, its just it may require a very commiting dyno and not offer a clipping stance before you soar. The Teflon corner is a water polished dihedral that requires crazy palm stemming and body english. Don't be afraid of it- once I chalked my palms REALLY well, I freed it right off... I did feel like I was going to fall the whole time though. I remember a lot of backstepping and dropkneeing in the smears.
Didn't Honnold already go over the route with a 'fine tooth comb' to try the solo, and decided against it? If so, I doubt Dean or anyone is looking at it as a candidate for first freesolo of ElCap.
Gene

climber
Feb 8, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
To the top!
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
Feb 8, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
awesome.

Dave T, "He just did it without a rope. Did you hear me the first time? He just did it without a rope"

hahaha
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 8, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
So where did Dean start in the video?

Credit: not me
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 8, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Can any mortal human solo the Teflon Corner?
Sergio Colombo

Mountain climber
Red Rock
Feb 9, 2012 - 12:07am PT


I was there with Mickey that day. Dean was floating through the air, going back and forth on that line like if he was walking on a sidewalk. Simply breathtaking.

Credit: Sergio Colombo
Credit: Sergio Colombo
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 9, 2012 - 01:44am PT
Only 26 posts, and the Warbler (in-particular) absent from the conversation? Potts must be still burnt-off in the climbing world I guess. The vid is misleading, cuz it shows him walking up over dirt etc on the approach. It's a bit of a cluster at this point in my eyes.
Randisi

Boulder climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Feb 9, 2012 - 02:58am PT
Pretty amazing.

But it raises a question that's been asked before: is it truly a free-solo if the option of bailing onto the ropes presents itself so often?
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 9, 2012 - 03:51am PT
Mentaly haveing other people so close and haveing the ropes that close changes everything. It is still stunningly huge but it is aslo way less mentaly chalangeing than being alone. I do a fair bit of ice soloing and when I solo up with the rope on my back and then rig a rappel rope the subsequent solos up the same line next to my rap rope are way easeier than the first trip up with the rope on my back. Mentaly I almost forget that I am soloing and have to remind myself to be extra carefull. Same thing happens on summer rock solos When their are other climbers roped up next to me. I almost forget that I am soloing. Of course you have to be very comfortable at the grade for this to happen and what Dean does is hugely badassed. Just saying that the mental aspect of being in the same spot with no support team would be significantly more mentaly chalenging.
Rattlesnake Arch

Social climber
Home is where we park it
Feb 9, 2012 - 05:06am PT
Just saying that the mental aspect of being in the same spot with no support team would be significantly more mentaly chalenging.

Yes, but he has to worry about the photo team being in the way, perhaps at the crux, or maybe accidentally bumping him off. And they must be a distraction.
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Feb 9, 2012 - 05:26am PT
Dean started on top. Down climbed the upper pitches of Lurking Fear till he hit thanksgiving ledge. He then traversed this across, mostly walking and scrambling to point point a couple hundred feet west of Knights of the Roundtable (which is the ledge below the 11d Freerider pitch). The last two hundred feet involved 5th class climbing. Not really sure how hard he thought it was. My guess would be in the harder 5.10 to easy 5.11 range, but again only my guess. From the ledge he followed the normal Freerider corners till he joined the Salathe again.

The whole climb was definitely the most amazing thing I've ever been witness to. Bear in mind I watched Dean solo Heaven, Honnold solo Cosmic and the Sentinel. Being this high off the ground on such steep and exposed terrain really ups the intensity.
bob

climber
Feb 9, 2012 - 07:01am PT
Those anchors up on that panic pillar on Cathedral were a real treat to look at. Take those down yet?

Bob J.
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Feb 9, 2012 - 08:03am PT
The climbers at the top of the trade are really up there in a unique league of their own. Not for the weak of mind for sure. All I have is respect for them and also for my photographer friends who shoot them. I would just be too nervous to shoot close like that. Props to all!!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Feb 9, 2012 - 08:28am PT
Huh... klk and I were on Cathedral Peak on July 12 and saw someone setting up a slackline there; was that the day?
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Feb 9, 2012 - 08:50am PT
Hey Bob- I'm actually not sure what is up with the anchors. I wasn't around when they were rigged or taken down.
Rattlesnake Arch

Social climber
Home is where we park it
Feb 9, 2012 - 09:41am PT
He then traversed this across, mostly walking and scrambling to point point a couple hundred feet west of Knights of the Roundtable (which is the ledge below the 11d Freerider pitch).

So does this mean the hardest moves Dean soloed were 11d? Or am I confused as usual.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 9, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
Mikey, thanks for the description of the route Dean climbed!
I can't wait to see the program on Sunday.
Ha, slippery .12d, waaaay off the deck, will be the climb of the century.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 9, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
So does this mean the hardest moves Dean soloed were 11d? Or am I confused as usual.

This is my question, too.
WBraun

climber
Feb 9, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
So does this mean the hardest moves Dean soloed were 11d?

Modern climbers are soooo hung up on ratings.

There are 5.9 pitches that will spank many people who can climb many grades harder.

It's stupid to put so much focus on ratings, especially when it's free soloing .....
tahoe523

Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
Feb 9, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
Admitting ignorance here- does the route stand a higher chance of getting free solo'd with a parachute? The boulder problem seems high enough on the route to deploy a jump into some treacherous trees, but I gather there's more to it since you don't see jumpers on the SW side. The question is about the non-legal logistics.

As for the legal logistics, will NPS fine a free base climber for having the intent of using a parachute as a backup, or do they actually have to catch you having made the actual jump? Like reverse suicide- not arrested if attempted and arrested if executed.
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