The Man Who Can Fly- Dean Potter

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Sergio Colombo

Mountain climber
Red Rock
Feb 9, 2012 - 03:07am PT


I was there with Mickey that day. Dean was floating through the air, going back and forth on that line like if he was walking on a sidewalk. Simply breathtaking.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 9, 2012 - 04:44am PT
Only 26 posts, and the Warbler (in-particular) absent from the conversation? Potts must be still burnt-off in the climbing world I guess. The vid is misleading, cuz it shows him walking up over dirt etc on the approach. It's a bit of a cluster at this point in my eyes.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 9, 2012 - 06:51am PT
Mentaly haveing other people so close and haveing the ropes that close changes everything. It is still stunningly huge but it is aslo way less mentaly chalangeing than being alone. I do a fair bit of ice soloing and when I solo up with the rope on my back and then rig a rappel rope the subsequent solos up the same line next to my rap rope are way easeier than the first trip up with the rope on my back. Mentaly I almost forget that I am soloing and have to remind myself to be extra carefull. Same thing happens on summer rock solos When their are other climbers roped up next to me. I almost forget that I am soloing. Of course you have to be very comfortable at the grade for this to happen and what Dean does is hugely badassed. Just saying that the mental aspect of being in the same spot with no support team would be significantly more mentaly chalenging.
Rattlesnake Arch

Social climber
Home is where we park it
Feb 9, 2012 - 08:06am PT
Just saying that the mental aspect of being in the same spot with no support team would be significantly more mentaly chalenging.

Yes, but he has to worry about the photo team being in the way, perhaps at the crux, or maybe accidentally bumping him off. And they must be a distraction.
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Feb 9, 2012 - 08:26am PT
Dean started on top. Down climbed the upper pitches of Lurking Fear till he hit thanksgiving ledge. He then traversed this across, mostly walking and scrambling to point point a couple hundred feet west of Knights of the Roundtable (which is the ledge below the 11d Freerider pitch). The last two hundred feet involved 5th class climbing. Not really sure how hard he thought it was. My guess would be in the harder 5.10 to easy 5.11 range, but again only my guess. From the ledge he followed the normal Freerider corners till he joined the Salathe again.

The whole climb was definitely the most amazing thing I've ever been witness to. Bear in mind I watched Dean solo Heaven, Honnold solo Cosmic and the Sentinel. Being this high off the ground on such steep and exposed terrain really ups the intensity.
bob

climber
Feb 9, 2012 - 10:01am PT
Those anchors up on that panic pillar on Cathedral were a real treat to look at. Take those down yet?

Bob J.
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Feb 9, 2012 - 11:03am PT
The climbers at the top of the trade are really up there in a unique league of their own. Not for the weak of mind for sure. All I have is respect for them and also for my photographer friends who shoot them. I would just be too nervous to shoot close like that. Props to all!!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Feb 9, 2012 - 11:28am PT
Huh... klk and I were on Cathedral Peak on July 12 and saw someone setting up a slackline there; was that the day?
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Feb 9, 2012 - 11:50am PT
Hey Bob- I'm actually not sure what is up with the anchors. I wasn't around when they were rigged or taken down.
Rattlesnake Arch

Social climber
Home is where we park it
Feb 9, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
He then traversed this across, mostly walking and scrambling to point point a couple hundred feet west of Knights of the Roundtable (which is the ledge below the 11d Freerider pitch).

So does this mean the hardest moves Dean soloed were 11d? Or am I confused as usual.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 9, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
Mikey, thanks for the description of the route Dean climbed!
I can't wait to see the program on Sunday.
Ha, slippery .12d, waaaay off the deck, will be the climb of the century.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 9, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
So does this mean the hardest moves Dean soloed were 11d? Or am I confused as usual.

This is my question, too.
WBraun

climber
Feb 9, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
So does this mean the hardest moves Dean soloed were 11d?

Modern climbers are soooo hung up on ratings.

There are 5.9 pitches that will spank many people who can climb many grades harder.

It's stupid to put so much focus on ratings, especially when it's free soloing .....
tahoe523

Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
Feb 9, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
Admitting ignorance here- does the route stand a higher chance of getting free solo'd with a parachute? The boulder problem seems high enough on the route to deploy a jump into some treacherous trees, but I gather there's more to it since you don't see jumpers on the SW side. The question is about the non-legal logistics.

As for the legal logistics, will NPS fine a free base climber for having the intent of using a parachute as a backup, or do they actually have to catch you having made the actual jump? Like reverse suicide- not arrested if attempted and arrested if executed.
WBraun

climber
Feb 9, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
will NPS fine a free base climber for having the intent of using a parachute as a backup,

It's never been done here so it will probably have to be contested in court if one is caught .....
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 9, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
What else is there?...Amazing.

Jeremiah 33:3 KJV

"Call unto me, and I will answer thee, and shew thee great and mighty things, which thou knowest not."


Amazing.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 10, 2012 - 12:38am PT
S.Leeper...this is who I am, nothing more intended. This is only my reply to, "what else is there?" for The Man Who Can Fly - Dean Potter:

Ephesians 3:17-21 KJV

"That Christ may dwell in your hearts by faith; that ye, being rooted and grounded in love, May be able to comprehend with all saints what is the breadth, and length, and depth, and height; And to know the love of Christ, which passeth knowledge, that ye might be filled with all the fulness of God. Now unto him that is able to do exceeding abundantly above all that we ask or think, according to the power that worketh in us, Unto him be glory in the church by Christ Jesus throughout all ages, world without end. Amen."


My response is no different in that it expresses how I feel, as in others responses. Although some will take it that way, there is no offense intended. It's who I am. Peace.

Glory to God
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 10, 2012 - 12:56am PT
"Right now there are some lessons that I haven't quite learned, and the answers are on the walls or in the mountains, and I think that's why I keep going back is to try to figure it out, try to have some higher meaning in life" - Dean Potter

Even Dean is searching for, "what else is there?"!
Rattlesnake Arch

Social climber
Home is where we park it
Feb 10, 2012 - 08:45am PT
There are 5.9 pitches that will spank many people who can climb many grades harder

Agreed. I've failed on such 5.9 pitches--- with a toprope. And I wouldn't solo 5.4 up there. I have great respect for Dean Potters abilities.

Just tryin' to understand exactly what he did...
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 10, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
Ah, I see you missed the point, for"its not about me/you." Now that Christ has paid the ultimate price, it's about God and others, Matthew 22:37-40 KJV...

"Jesus said unto him, Thou shalt love the Lord thy God with all thy heart, and with all thy soul, and with all thy mind. This is the first and great commandment. And the second is like unto it, Thou shalt love thy neighbour as thyself. On these two commandments hang all the law and the prophets."

This is a commandment that I, as one that is written in the Book of Life, am to be obedient to. God's love is to willingly sacrifice yourself, for the benefit of others, with no thought of return. Believe you me, my suffering (love) for others continues everyday that I'm alive on this earth by exhibiting a fruit of the Spirit, longsuffering, an enduring temperament that expresses itself in patience with the shortcomings of others. I'd say I chose to take on quite a responsibility and far from, to " give up seeking."

2 Peter 3:9 KJV

" Lord is not slack concerning his promise, as some men count slackness; but is longsuffering to us-ward, not willing that any should perish, but that all should come to repentance,"

...including you.

Man, God is good!


Edit: first sentence was a bit abrupt.
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