Discussion Topic |
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 20, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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Plus the guy is wearing a green shirt.
What's up with that ....
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Jan 20, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
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Doesn't look like enough pads to me. I would need at least 12 more layers before attempting that finish.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 20, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
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Is it ethical to start from the pads, rather than the ground? It's kind of like using a soft ladder. And if one pad is OK, and five are better, what then?
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
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Why not a window washers raising and lowering scaffold covered in marshmallows?
Or 350 cardboard boxes filled with ghost farts?
Or a giant air filled Santa with the fan on high?
What is the accepted standard of cushy radness?????
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Jan 20, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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Is it ethical to start from the pads, rather than the ground? It's kind of like using a soft ladder. And if one pad is OK, and five are better, what then?
The crux is apparently 20 ft up, so I don't think it matters...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 20, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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Better then pads!!!! The tramp you idjits, not the grrrrl.
You callin' that girl a tramp?
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jan 20, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
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One of my favorite John Sherman quotes occurred when passing a group with multiple stacked pads:
Ahhh...Starting from the ladies tee, are we?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 20, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
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Filling a hole with pads is just leveling so that a fall isn't a sideways fall.
Only the top 3 or so pad layers (depending on model and foam type) would make any difference to the fall.
Used to be hard top ropes were cool. And you could hang out and have a beer and trash talk while doing it. The days of top ropes are over. Either solos or leads anymuchmore to have value.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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Ah, for the simplicity of a top rope.
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KyleO
Gym climber
Calgary, AB
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
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If you put that boulder into proportion with any other odd boulder...
You'd need a 15 foot tall spotter! Seriously.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
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At what point does a 50 foot tall boulder problem become a free solo?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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At what point does a 50 foot tall boulder problem become a free solo?
very good question. Some of those boulders are a lot taller than any of the routes at cosumnes river gorge
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Just fill the ground with a case or two of Great Stuff expandable foam and throw the empty cans in the weeds. Good to go. No pesky mattress to lug around.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
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I always thought the whole purpose of bouldering ( now that it's no longer considered practice for real climbs ) was that it freed you from the burden of buying, carrying around, and dealing with a stack of equipment while you climb.
Apparently I've been doing it wrong all this time.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
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Seems like they could sell a few of those pads and buy a rope.
Prod.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
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So, how's this guy got the "walk-off" dialed? Fixed anchor on top with rope knotted its entire length? I'm with you Prod.....bolt that thing!
I'd rather higball using these...
No compound fractures for me, thank you!
 mooch (pussy in practice)
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climbnplay
climber
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
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why the f* do you care what the "accepted" number of pads is? climb whatever the f* you want to climb and however many (or few) pads you want. It's not like the pads are stacked there permanently so the next boulderer would have to live with it. stupid f***ing standards. whoever comes up with these ideas and standards should be shot.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
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Supposed to be? You mean he's using a stunt double!?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
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You have too many PADs when there is one more than enough to cover the entire wall.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
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Maybe it's like the Princess and the Pea. Stack up a ton of mattresses and still, that damned pea is digging into your back. The corollary is we haul those pads out there to take a nice nap under the trees. Always has worked for me.
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Gene
climber
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
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On his 8a.nu scorecard, Alex considered his ascent a “community event” and thanked all the folks that carried up the 34 pads that made the climb possible.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
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(NO idea who took this photo, but would love to give credit if alerted to the source)
Russ, I saw that picture attached to Wills Young's very cool blog, http://bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/. I would say that 35 pads is where the line should be drawn. 34 were used on Honnold's ascent of Too Big to Flail.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
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I just hope the route/problem description includes the 30 pad beta.
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Gary
climber
That Long Black Cloud Is Coming Down
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
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I dunno, boys, but I'm considering this technique on my next lead:
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
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he worked it on tr first.
pretty cool.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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hey there say, russ and all...
you know: i KNOW i don't know what i'm talking about, as to what
the outcome of all those pads would be, but:
i would THINK that if one hit all those pads, from a high fall, that one would BOUNCE and it'b be hard to figure in which direction? perhaps OVER?
all the spotters,to the ground??
i know, most likely i am way off base, i mean way off pads, ;)
but that was the thought that came to mind, seeing that, and
reflecting back on what kids do when they play with too many mattresses piled on a bed--well, if given the opportunity, that is... :O
*perhaps the pads are not a bouncy as they appear to be...
carry on folks... :)
ps:
not wanting to see any hurt, so glad he thought this was best for him...
in this case...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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...At what point do you have too many PADS bouldering?
When every last cactus, blade of grass and other vegetation surrounding the rock has been crushed into the dirt.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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I'm cool with not giving Honnold sh#t about this.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 20, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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“Too Big to Flail.”
Hhaha this guy is actually clever! I like it.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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Know thats the pad I've been waiting for.
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Dr. X
Big Wall climber
X- Town
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Jan 20, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
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When Bard did transporter room, after the bolt chop, it was really considered a solo, not a boulder problem.....
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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If you’re sitting in a low slung car parked along Topanga Canyon Blvd at Stoney Point you can see the top of Boulder One, the lower half is obscured from view by terrain.
One afternoon I was sitting there in my car reviewing some “safety procedures” before a session. I watched with amazement as some guy climbed awkwardly up the descent route to the very top of the boulder and flung himself off. Then up goes another guy who throws a back flip off the top.
When I got out of the car I expected to see some guys lying there with broken bones. Actually they were stunt guys and were landing on a big air bag like that.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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some women bleed profusely.
they need multiple pads.
absortion, tell ya.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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Pads are for pussies. What kind of pad did John Gill use for the FA of the Thimble? He used a steel guardrail.
Did Kauk & Bachar use a pad for Midnight Lightning? No just some dirt & a few rocks.
Pads are just a justification for using technology to take the sting out of a fall off the stone. That's exactly what ropes are for too. If you use technology to cushion a fall, how is that any different from using a rope?
Where do you draw the line? How about a pole vault pad? Or a circus net? Bouldering should be about testing yourself on the stone. BITD climbers would downclimb if they could not/would not top out a given problem. Nowadays, everybody just jumps off onto the sea of pads. Downclimbing is a lost art & bouldering pads cater to the noob crowd who are afraid to fall without padding. If you want to pad something, go pad your expense account.
*EDIT***
Yo! THE legend, John Gill has spoken!! See a few posts below. Gill didn't need no stinkin' pad!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
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Pads are for pussies. LOL.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
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Ah, for the simplicity of a top rope
OK, he spent a lot of time dangling before soloing. But I'm not sure why a stack of pads and an assembly of spotters is somehow stylistically superior to a simple top rope with one companion. But times change.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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all the punts makin fun o' the ladies,
got know clue!
jesus can you imagine a monthly routine of
some such! i am not worthy.
not even close.
i can hardly manage my hourly balance of mind chemicals,
let alone a cycling and
messy reproductive operating system.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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The term "Sport Bouldering" has just entered the lexicon.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
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"Did Kauk & Bachar use a pad for Midnight Lightning?"
Bachar wore socks. That was state-of-the-art for crash-pads then.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
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Before pads were invented, I busted a leg real good.
What I later learned from some old UIAA charts was that a 150 lb weight fall 10 feet generates 2000 pounds of force.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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I imagine it would have to be very unpleasant to fall on those pads from that height! Give me a top-rope!
Me too. You could easily break your neck even with the pads and guys.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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The photo in the OP has now been credited to Wills Young. Go check out his site for some cool asss shizz.
http://bishopbouldering.blogspot.com
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On-Site Flasher 69
Sport climber
Riverside
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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Crash pads are a way better alternative then top roping. Why is this even being discussed? Bottom line, anyone hating on crash pads is probably not a very good free climber.Top roping promotes vaginitis in the balls region of the male body.
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
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I wonder what people think when they see a couple guys with no shirts and wearing beanies with matresses strapped to their backs running into the woods together.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
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What cracks me up are the spotters. Like they are going to be able to deflect someone falling from 20'-50' up without incurring significant injury? There is a lot of force involved with a fall from that far up. The spotters should be wearing helmets.
Been there, done that with a leader who's pro failed while he was 20' off the deck. Spent an afternoon in the hospital in Hemet getting rock chips pulled out of my head.
That may explain some things...
No matter what, if one falls off that big of a high ball, someone is going to be hurting.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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Congrats on a great send Alex!
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On-Site Flasher 69
Sport climber
Riverside
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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Well its because you and those who think a like contracted vaginitis. I told you that would happen.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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Actually I've seen a few pretty nasty injuries which resulted from relatively short falls onto pads. One guy I saw fell off Three Pigs at Stoney onto two pads stacked. His feet were less than his height from the ground, but he turned an ankle badly. I think his peripheral vision and sense of horizon told him where the ground was, but he hit the pads about a foot sooner and that screwed up his landing.
Landing right on the edge of a pad has done in a few ankles too.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
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A few years ago, a woman fell off that traversing section below Horsemen in the Gunks, hit the edge of her pad with her foot and.....
the ONLY thing holding her foot and leg together was a flap of skin. Her foot was very nearly completely severed. BLAAAAHHHH!!!!
A very short fall, maybe 12 feet off ground.
edit: I am glad Alex did not need to find out if the pads would be effective as protection. From the height he got, I think the blood flow would probably be a LOT worse than even on one of my heaviest days...(har har har)
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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happie -- I've saw at least three falls end with the ends of both bones sticking out & the foot on only by soft tissue in 2011. All caused by either hitting the edge of the pad or the pad sliding on impact.
Non of these falls had feet above 5 feet
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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//And once again like Levy already mentioned, you should try down climbing some time instead of just being a pansy and jumping onto half a dozen matresses from fifteen or twenty+ feet. Adds another whole element, dimension to "the burn". How do you think JB and all the other Stonemasters, et al got so good? Are you saying they were "probably not very good"?
Someday yer gonna have to down climb suptin and yer gonna soil yer knickers.//
Awesome post. Sometimes dowclimbing is easier (with different moves), and sometimes it sucks ass!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 11:37pm PT
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maybe it's a Spinal Tap thing...
"the bigger the cushion, the sweater the pushin'"
but maybe just climbing the high ball without any pad or top-rope would be the best style,
sorta old school style
and let's loose the "revival tent" scene too, with all those upraised hands, don't you think?
if you have partners, they can help drive you to the hospital if you blow it.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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We used to take some pretty big lobbers off this. No pads of course. Never did boulder it out. Good thing too, as the crux is the topout. It is a bolted sport climb now.
vid here: http://www.fishproducts.com/movies/saturn_russ22.mov
Here is a Mari pic of another failed attempt:
So, no pads is not that good, but how many are too many? And my spotter off to the left there, knows exactly where I am going to land. He is calm and ready if needed.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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Looks like the sit-start is still up for grabs. You could then re-name it too!
This reminds me of the story behind Sherman's FA of "Run Spot, Run".
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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Vaginas? yeah that thing under your nose
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susan peplow
climber
GordonFest Paypal: devansbike@earthlink.net
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:09am PT
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Thank goodness you held those jewels during the drop!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:10am PT
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Hamie, that is "See Spot Run" - V6 at Hueco. Death landing, no redemption above 20 feet, where the crux is. I down-climbed that thing like 10 times.
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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My knees started hurting after Wallings photos!
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richross
Trad climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:24am PT
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 12:32am PT
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Hamie, that is "See Spot Run" - V6 at Hueco. Death landing, no redemption above 20 feet, where the crux is. I down-climbed that thing like 10 times.
uhh... you sure? It *is* tall, but has a perfect flat landing and the crux is low. I think Kauk did it in a poncho and huaraches. Probably not even PG.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:32am PT
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I got no comment...but I could if ya need one. Seems like an obvious clusterf*#k!!!
I gotta start a new thread about puss-climbers. I am one in one regard, but I bare more testicular fortitude/ intelliegence than some idiots out there, hehehee....
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richross
Trad climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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Did they put cushions on the metal coffin, Rich?
No, they moved the box (coffin) that holds the stokes litter to a different location.
From the traveling couch thread. Couch photoshop on my photo by Mike Bolte.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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poncho and huraches
WTF is that??? Que??
Que dices????
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 12:44am PT
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Blue: Standard over the border fare from Juarez. Huaraches. (spelling fixed above)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:56am PT
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Just so ya know, that sh#t is infected when it crosses ze border.
Look it it up, bra!!!
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jack splat
climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 01:24am PT
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Did any of you notice that the boulder is 50 feet high and the problem is harder than anything you ever climbed bitd? Instead of spraying here, how about you go to the Buttermilks and push Alex over and have a hissy fit while you throw all his pads away from the base and show him how a real man climbs it it?? No worries cause you won't even make it far enough up to get hurt.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 11:16am PT
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jack splat
Jan 20, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
Did any of you notice that the boulder is 50 feet high and the problem is harder than anything you ever climbed bitd? Instead of spraying here, how about you go to the Buttermilks and push Alex over and have a hissy fit while you throw all his pads away from the base and show him how a real man climbs it it?? No worries cause you won't even make it far enough up to get hurt.
As Perry Mason used to say....... IRRELEVANT!
Side note edit: Who is digging pits? I think the 34 pads were used to fill in a "pit". Quite a bit different than digging a pit and putting a pad in the hole. That shizz is wacky!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Coz: But I think the OP, was just trying to start a light hearted thread and must have missed the contradiction.
Nope. How many is too many? Where does it end?
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Pffftttt a 50 foot boulder problem.
BITD when men where still men and the women still washed the dishes they used her towel for a pad.
The towel was used to wipe the dust off the rubber.
They also used humans for pads.
Dudes stood under the highballer.
When highballer fell off he crushed the human pads. Human Sacrifice!
Modern pussies need a mattress and no human sacrifice.
Except for coz.
Coz made sure there were dangerous rocks below him and falls into them knocking the sh!t out of him.
I thought he was dead too many times.
This was how real men toughened up to become hard ......
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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Look, the general question is a good one, and I ask it all the time. On lots of problems of this angle, it is faintly ridiculous to claim that a half-dozen mattresses and a mosh pit of spotters make for a valid ascent, but a TR would be bogus.
This particular line, though, seems not the best example for making that case. The full length is well past the point at which mats would much help. from up high, i'd guess that his chance of even hitting that landing is not good. and the thin-ness means that there's probably a good chance of getting through the start, but only at the cost of blood.
i haven't seen this rig, but it looks to me like the mats provide a landing on the crux start where the moves are ultra-hard and thin and probably low-percentage. and then, if he splits a tip up above, it's a bit of insurance that let's him downclimb a move or two and then jump.
if he loses a tip on that hi-ball start, he's not going to solo out the remaining hard 5.13 with one flipper. nor is he going to downclimb the 8a opening moves.
i have some sympathy for randy's take, i.e., that matts for bouldering should be like crash mats in gymnastics-- good training instruments but not allowed for competition. this particular problem, though, appears not to have any landing at all unless padded out.
the good news is that now, all the internet hardmen can run up and solo it now w/o pads. then start a thread over at 8a.nu about how you should get bonus points for a padless ascent.
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go-B
climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Free Cushioning!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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In the days of my grandfather
Ships were made of wood & men made of steel --- today the ships are made of steel & the men are all blockheads.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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In the days of my grandfather
Ships were made of wood & men made of steel and the sheep were nervous
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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the damage to plants surrounding the boulder problems is greater because of the pads, and that is an issue when every boulder is used.
This is a land use issue at popular bouldering areas. While the presence of people is the first problem, and the fact that they trample the vegetation, using pads greatly increases the damage. As the vegetation departs, the erosion due to rain runoff greatly alters the base of the boulders, removing soil and uncovering rocks which make the landing even more of a problem.
So the answer to the question is: 1.
Use a dishtowel like Werner says, and be kind to the vegetables....
Call any vegetable, Call it by name
Call one today When you get off the train
Call any vegetable And the chances are good
Aw, The vegetable will respond to you
Call any vegetable Pick up your phone
Think of a vegetable Lonely at home
Call any vegetable And the chances are good
That a vegetable will respond to you.
No one will know
If you don't want to let them know
No one will know
'Less it's you that might tell them so
Call and they'll come to you
Covered with dew
Vegetables dream, Of responding to you.
Standing there shiny and proud by you side
Holding your hand while the neighbors decide
Why is a vegetable something to hide?"
-F. Zappa
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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Did any of you notice that the boulder is 50 feet high and the problem is harder than anything you ever climbed bitd? Instead of spraying here, how about you go to the Buttermilks and push Alex over and have a hissy fit while you throw all his pads away from the base and show him how a real man climbs it it?? No worries cause you won't even make it far enough up to get hurt.
Who cares how hard Honnold climbs, or how hard any of us climb? So following your reasoning, if someone chips a route, the only people who could question the style are the people that could climb it?
Maybe that logic works on a chest-thumping gorilla, but it sounds pretty stupid to me.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
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Prod, I used to have that exact Big Wheel! Thanks for that flashback man!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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^^^^^^yeah, this is what may eventually change pad practice.
the irony is that padded landings and many soils (and lots of them involve fair bits of engineering) are higher impact than a couple tr bolts.
edit: the arrows pointed to ed's post when i started typing. old age is catching up faster than i thought.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
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Or, as Steve Wunsch once told me:
I've been climbing so long I can remember when sex was safe and climbing was dangerous.
Curt
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Jan 21, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
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That is goofy, just Top Rope the thing.
Ego maniacs
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Jan 21, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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Jeez, I guess there's just no pleasing anybody around here.
If he climbs it without pads, then he's a maniac asking to be maimed or killed.
If he climbs it WITH pads, its totally lame, and is way too destructive to the surrounding environment.
If he climbs it on top-rope, then its not really a valid ascent because he's removed all elements of boldness.
If he bolts the thing, then he's a heretic for operating outside the accepted norms of Bishop boulder climbing.
pick your poison.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
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I have some admiration for high-balls, but that is a death wish, man.
And for the record, I'm not a big fan of Honnold and his publisizing his death-solos. People seem to have no respect for the lives they're granted. Awesome climber is cool, but pushing solo boundaries that far???
Yer askin' for it....
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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Jeez, I guess there's just no pleasing anybody around here.
If he climbs it without pads, then he's a maniac asking to be maimed or killed.
If he climbs it WITH pads, its totally lame, and is way too destructive to the surrounding environment.
If he climbs it on top-rope, then its not really a valid ascent because he's removed all elements of boldness.
If he bolts the thing, then he's a heretic for operating outside the accepted norms of Bishop boulder climbing.
LOL so true.
Honnold, the best trad climber on the planet can't get no respect ......
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 21, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
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In the image, it looks like Alex is just about past the point where the spotters would be able to assist had he come off. I haven't seen the entire vidoe of the thing(has anyone on this site?) so would assume that as each spotter becomes cognizant that the climber is beyond the height they can spot for, they know that... I doubt they were sitting there, hands up, as he was nearing the top.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jan 21, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
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Stupid Side Bar
People seem to have no respect for the lives they're granted.
yeah, but wouldn't this also apply to drinkers of alcohol? Or smokers?
Oh, not the same activity?
Right, so how about people who skydive? Base-jump? Racing car driver? One who kayaks?
All of these seem to be relatively the same when viewed from an inherent danger perspective.
But I'm not willing to put out in the world my personal view on what others do with this single lifetime that each human born has to live. I prefer to live and let live.
On the OP question
The window washer scaffolding may be a bit much, but there may be another system employed some day that will avoid danger entirely and without the use of the soft bed of padding below. And somehow they may still call it climbing. Maybe not my personal definition... but still climbing.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 21, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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Crash pads are a way better alternative then top roping. Why is this even being discussed? Bottom line, anyone hating on crash pads is probably not a very good free climber.Top roping promotes vaginitis in the balls region of the male body. Yeah that Jogill guy never really knew how to climb. Actually I think he used a gaurd rail for a crash pad on something about that tall.
My son has to do a school project where he has to display what a million of something will look like. He chose my bouldering pad. I am thinking I could freesolo elcap with that kind of cush.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 21, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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I would consider being called Tim Tebow a compliment.
edit: and I'm not even a Christian.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 21, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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Well there you have it. Life is beautiful.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
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Normally n00b spotters just end up collapsing your lung with their knee, or flipping you over them as they stand too close, or you end up snapping off three of their fingers and elbowing them in the temple.
The preferred spot for me is just to keep my head out of the talus. Make a grab for the melon AFTER I hit the ground. All the rest will most likely heal.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 22, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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Watching this sort of thing gives me the willies. I experimented with a subdued version on much easier terrain for about three years, some fifty years ago, but then turned much more conservative when I realized I didn't have the personality - the mental capacity - to continue. I would have to work myself into a state to experiment with these kinds of things, but, for Alex, it seems so natural. He amazes me. I truly hope there is someone up there looking after him.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 22, 2012 - 11:18am PT
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My question is for those who are cheering Honnold, and others like him, on in this extreme pursuit.....If he fails (heaven forbid) and pulls the trigger on the loaded cylinder, are you going to feel like an accomplice?
You may consider that you have some issues with codependency, Cragman.
Honnold is a big boy;, a man, actually. He has set his course, and he is the one who faces his daily challenges. IF he is "succumbing to pressure" in a desire to please, or facing difficulty is laying his boundaries, that that is HIS life's lesson(or one of them). We human beings are simply not powerful enough to consciously change the trajectory of another's life, and to think we are is full-on hubris.
While it is very true that we affect the trajectory of other people's lives daily, I suggest that we are delusional if we think this is any of our doing. Stuck in a very narrow mindset. Even very negative behaviors from one can positively affect the life of another. I can personally attest to that. Weird, how that works - but it does.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 22, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Cragman's analysis implies Honnold is stupid and can't think for himself.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 22, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Then if that theory holds true some of them will die or end up with a broken body parts.
And they do.
That's got nothing to do with soloing or high-balling.
We pick up more roped climbers, hikers than ever.
We've even seen an upswing of people stepping out of their car and walking 10 feet falling over .....
If they want fame so be it. You have to let them learn from practical example.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 22, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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Did you guys notice that the word analysis has the word anal in it? ;)
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 22, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Normally n00b spotters just end up collapsing your lung with their knee, or flipping you over them as they stand too close, or you end up snapping off three of their fingers and elbowing them in the temple.
Amen. I only boulder in the gym...where I'm 5 ft. up with a fully padded floor. Every now and then a well meaning person inserts himself between me and the padding, and all of the sudden someone getting hurt becomes a possibility. I hate that.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 22, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
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That's the Bragman. If he isn't preaching... he's bragging.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 22, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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... the allure that Honnold has on the bouldering crowd.
It ain't like boulderers are necessarily aspiring to someday solo multipitch, which is what he's famous for.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Jan 22, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
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Who was first out of the gate in selling the commercial pad?
Towels and carpet scraps go way back, then we folding over egg crate cushions wrapped in duct tape in the Gunks, then in Hueco I remember going to Juarez and picking up huge Bruce Lee & Elvis portraits prints on black velvet rugs we would then stuff with whatever foam was available at Kmart.
Anyway just wondering. Who was first in selling the full on pad?
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Jim Clipper
Social climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Jan 22, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
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Where do the hard bits begin and end? In the past, might it have been practiced with a rope from above? Was it done before in a different manner?
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Jim Clipper
Social climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Jan 22, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
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Reading more of the posts, all I can say is I'm not worthy. Also, was the OP being sarcastically respectful? Finally, could we commission a RURbP from FISH Products? Maybe a cute little pocket sized bouldering pad that might double as a tea cozy. A masterwork to celebrate Too Big to Flail!!!
"Bouldering gear for the man who has everything"
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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Wes: zzzzzzzzz
T1 at best. Leave the tall stuff to the big boys, mkay?
I still ask: How many are too many?
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Jim Clipper
Social climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Jan 22, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
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I've heard chicks dig things with big eyes.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 22, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
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Maybe a cute little pocket sized bouldering pad that might double as a tea cozy.
Some day, only the purest Too Highball problems will be sent with a hand-crocheted tea doily as a pad. Matching colors to outfit will be de riguer!
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 22, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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Meanwhile - *sources* say that Honnold is in JT right now..... Wonder if more Too High bouldering is on the agenda?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jan 22, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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When are you using too many pads? When you fall off a high-ball & don't break your leg/ankle/heel. Depends on your goal: Not falling off and making the top, or falling off and breaking some bones.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 22, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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Regarding Trampoline Starts:
I think this is a legitimate evolution to the Shoulder Stand Start, and believe our use of the internet as playing a significant part in that progression. It seems that, as we isolate ourselves more via our virtually-related worlds and shun the more tactile world that direct interaction with others requires, that the use of inanimate objects as tools of scent, as opposed to relying on human partnerships, is a given.
Regarding AH sporting a CA chalkbag - If I see him, I would definitely offer him one if he would like. I don't think CA can match the sponsorship deals he is probably getting from BD(who probably wouldn't like someone else covering the prime real estate of his rear end), but I would still give him one. Someday, my goal is to have some sponsored climbers, but I want to wait until I can do something really radical - like actually pay them some cash each month....
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Jim Clipper
Social climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Jan 22, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
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Silliness and Circus Tricks !!!
But seriously, maybe put a royal makers mark on the boldering pad/cozy. Perhaps, ... sir honold could take it as a gift, next time he visits the lads (and lassies) across the pond.
Finally, wouldn't there be some bounce from the pads in the OP? If the hole slopes towards the boulder, the deflection from a fall might not be that amusing.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Jan 22, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
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Word is he soloed Equinox twice this week.
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Jim Clipper
Social climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Jan 22, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
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Plus the guy is wearing a green shirt.
What's up with that ....
green, it's the new white, which may just be the old green... now about those pads, I'm not one to say. i do hear that cartilage is useful when you get older.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 22, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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Ok my son finished his project. If you had one million bouldering pads you could cover a football field with them and stack them 292 pads thick. That is 97 feet tall. That should soften a pretty big fall.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 23, 2012 - 12:19am PT
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i do hear that cartilage is useful when you get older
Heh, heh, heh. Some of you will live long enough to reap that reward.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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Well, this is weschrist. He is neither strong nor bold, but he is a complainer and a contrarian, so just let him run with it.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 01:24am PT
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Word Dave
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jan 23, 2012 - 01:34am PT
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Oh oh, Wes. Looks like you've P.O.'d the big dogs again. Heh.
Curt
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 23, 2012 - 09:56am PT
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This is something that seems to be lacking in this sport, everyone thinks they're the sh#t, and really they are and they are not at the same time!
Um, you may need to get out more. In my experience, among longterm climbers, way more like your water analogy than not.
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:03am PT
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Oh, and JTree is choss.
yes.... lovely, beautiful choss... and easy routes that I should ever admit to enjoying... and harder climbs that I dare not attempt in front of anyone but my closest friends.
Along with the best sunrises, sunsets and campfire communions anywhere on planet Earth.
You know you want to love the place ;-)
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:11am PT
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I *heart* CHOSS
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2012 - 10:28am PT
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Wes, as usual misses the point, quickly loses grasp of the topic, and then tries to get traction with his anti old people rantings. Maybe Wes could sit the rest of this one out. We've heard you Wes, but your shtick is tired, your leg humping is unflattering, and yeah, you're an as#@&%e.
So, back to the Q:
It's not about Alex, it's not about Wes, it is not about me and my retirement community homies. It is not about how all the BITD guys were hard as nails and the modern-day climber is a pussy. It is about how many pads are too many. Anyone got a number yet?
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:30am PT
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So, if people start hauling out so many pads they don't have friends enough to carry them, would they need to put them in a....Paddie Wagon?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:58am PT
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Riley thanks to the link on that video. It really gives you a good since of how tall that thing is when they are sitting on top of it and the "holds" he is using look super small.
Russ, I think two is just right if one is able to fit inside the other. Three is too many....for me to carry.
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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Pads can make you harder....but
Downclimbing will make you smarter...
I wonder what people think when they see a couple guys with no shirts and wearing beanies with matresses strapped to their backs running into the woods together. too fukn' funny.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Jan 23, 2012 - 11:02am PT
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Pads are like Cheesburgers, single patty with a little bacon is okay.
Double patty and your asking for heart and soul trouble down the line.
The real question is how much pie to eat after the top out.
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pleasantOs
Trad climber
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Jan 23, 2012 - 11:35am PT
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even one is too many!
risk it all for nothing?
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go-B
climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Jan 23, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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I don't think I could do it on topropes either, sans the SOLO!
Still, Rad with Pads!
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jan 23, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
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A: more pads than the boulder is tall in feet. Thought everyone knew that.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 23, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
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Well if during a period of heavy flow you can't get your capris back up you may have too many pads.
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
The Peaks
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Jan 23, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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Oh come on Russ. Leave the youth of today alone.
What would you do on a tall face like that? I nearly bolted it after rapping down it and trying some of the 'impossible' moves.
There has been full disclosure about Alex's style: top rope practice, then solo above multiple pads.
Like Robbins said, it's up to future climbers to improve on the style ascent (which is why Robbins stayed off The Thimble...he wasn't 'flat out' good enough to ground up it after Gill's headpoint (tr then solo above the railings).....and Robbins walked away.... wadda God!
Anyway, it's partly your fault...and Shermans, and Mike Beck (or Call), and Pottengers, and Schelk's ...... for introducing bouldering pads/mats and manufacturing them in the first place.
Tee-hee
Mick
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jan 23, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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Who cares? There was plenty of stamped down vegetation in the dark ages before pads. There are just tons of more boulderers now.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 23, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
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^^^ it's guidebook authors fault as well. bwah.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 23, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
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But even if you just went there to Hike - the human mind has not invented a place like Josh even in fiction.
Yeah, there's a reason Joshua Tree is one of the most amazing National Parks in the world, and it has nothing, absolutely nothing, to do with the climbing there. Same with Yosemite for that matter. Even if climbing had never been invented, Josh and Yosemite would be Power Spots.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
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Poor Wes.... still not getting it and all wrong again.
As for Alex, this ain't about him and the sooner you get his nuts off your chin the sooner you might realize that it does not matter who the climber is or was.
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climbnplay
climber
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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Fuking hilarious that an aid climber who spends so much time resting on heaps of gear while climbing a fuking ladder with knee pads questions 18" of foam and 3 spotters for a 50' high ball.
thumbs up!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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If we're comparing heaps of gear, I'd say 34 pads is volume wise maybe 10 times as much as an aid team doing a grade IV.
Not sure how Wes concluded that Russ is jealous of Alex... but everyone is an internet psychologist these days. And of course Joshua Tree sucks, and everything in CA is a low angle waste of time, yadda yadda.
Props to Alex for doing this thing! Now, about the 34... would he have done it with 31? Or could they not get their hands on a 35th and gunned for it anyway?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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I guess Alex cared about volume?
How many car and human trips did it take to get 34 pads in that hole? 20?
Interesting observation though... it seems to me that many of your posts are designed to detract from somebody's achievements.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
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Maybe stemming from your deep resentment of those people based on your sad inadequacy?
Low T?
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Jim Clipper
Social climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
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It is about how many pads are too many. Anyone got a number yet?
I'll give it a shot. one, (or one less...)
One: I've never been remotely near that head space, but it seemed like he ultimately didn't need a pad. Could it have been practiced purely on top rope? I assume he didn't "use" the pads the last time he sent it. (please don't infer that I am commenting on style).
One less: It was really his call. He used what he needed to climb it.
Finally, a story for Russ: (purveyor of bouldering pads, and other climbing paraphernalia). A professor I knew did field work in the Mojave. He measured the growth rate of shrubs. He had a data set that extended back 25 years at least. When he went out in the field, there was a piss bush. In his study area, they never pissed anywhere else. Maybe ironically, the piss bush thrived.
I've heard you can still see Conestoga wagon tracks in the desert. Finally, I was thinking that the consequences of falling on a guardrail may have been much the same, as the risk for sir honold. There always seems to be the push to go bigger and for more. Ahhh... simpler times, or looking towards a sensible devolution.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
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The answer is 6. No more, no less.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
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42 is the answer, of course. Although a towel is probably also necessary.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
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Three Dog Night says two can be as bad as one
Tootsie Pop Owl says three
Russ made a thread up just for fun
And Wes cried wee wee wee
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
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A towel is definitely more useful than 42 pads. Long live Custer.
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go-B
climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Jan 23, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
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On sale now, the new Puspad!
"STICK IT EVERY TIME"
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 23, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
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Geez Wes take a Prozac and a Viagra and take your girl bouldering
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 23, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
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Having happened upon this scene a week ago I would like to look at the side effect of all those pads being carried up there. It seemed like there was a sh#t ton of erosion on that little approach trail that leads up to one of the most sacred places in the Buttermilk. Not to mention the amount of down feathers that were harvested to keep those fifteen or so people warm while they waited for Alex to send. But all that impact pales in comparison to the amount of impact one climbing video can have on a landing/trail.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 23, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
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If you put a million pads in Cowboys stadium you would have to raise the giant tv.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Jan 23, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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Marvelous day at Enchanted Rock Today
bitchin', Riley! what did you get on?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 23, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
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Seems like you can wave some money (and film crews) in Alex's face, and he's down for whatever. I never been a fan of the social aspect of bouldering - going as a group - "Cmon guy's grab your trendy cars and clothes, all the identifying utensils (pads etc) and head toward the most popular, and populated bouldering area, and we'll all pile our pads up together!" Something like that.
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fsck
climber
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Jan 23, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
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thick pads everywhere
stacked up like a delicious
birthday cake of foam
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climbnplay
climber
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Jan 23, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
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I climb, I don't lay around on pads.
joined a month ago and repeatedly seeing posts like this led me to the realization that this forum is full of whiny bitchy old hags. i'll show myself to the door.
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fsck
climber
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Jan 23, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
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this thread could use a maxi pad or two
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Jim Clipper
Social climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Jan 23, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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I'm surprised it hasn't spun off into a debate about the Dodd-Frank financial reform bill.
Also, if a positive outdoor experience, leads to a more mindful life, it might be worth the cost of a diminished natural wonder.
I still think the bouldering pad tea cozy would be RAD!@*&$ness.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
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I do perfectly OK without a fatass $150 - $200 pad
Wolfboy, wobbling up the VB- problems does not = "perfectly ok".
I had a two hour set me and a couple buds used to do as a circuit. Never used pads, in 15 years od that routine.
Yeah, maybe if you actually went climbing, instead of wanking about on the same beginners' circuit for a decade a pad would come in handy.
I climb, I don't lay around on pads.
Keep telling yourself that, you might even start to believe it. As for the rest of us, you'll understand if we don't consider your bumbling about on the n00b warm-up circuit to be in the same league as actual "climbing".
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fsck
climber
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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i'd just like to take a second to congratulate everyone on their attention to grammar and spelling in this internet cagefight.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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Wes, you got real problems, and they are much larger than being a crappy mindreader, a leg humper and a dumbass.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 23, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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Speaking of bouldering .....hahahaha
Remember that rescue at the base of Half Dome when that huge azz boulder mysteriously rolls away from me and Shipley.
Hahaha then Russ says "It's still going" and I keep saying "Noooooo"
LOL
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 23, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
|
This thread is a masterpeice.
Good show Russ.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Jan 24, 2012 - 01:19am PT
|
There is a Fear of Flying in the Mammoth area.
nope this one is a .10d, 2 hours from Austin Texas.
Hankster soloed it back in the day with staples in his head.
..now back to your regularly scheduled program.
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rich sims
Social climber
co
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Jan 24, 2012 - 01:28am PT
|
Russ when is new Pad production starting?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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Rich, I heard there is a foam issue, not sure what those other pad manufacturers are compromising with....
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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No more pads from FISH. I'm sickened by the impact and overuse of the device. I'm going to head in this direction for 2012:
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2012 - 11:42am PT
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Do ANY of you hippie dirt suckers EVVER consider that creating foam is one of the most polluting processes known to man? You ever wonder what that sh#t is made out of and what is left after the raw materials are created?
True. Along with LED lights and solar power, bouldering pads are number 3 in ruining the planet via dirty industry. The halflife on all that shizzz is like 13 million years.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 24, 2012 - 11:45am PT
|
^^^^^
This thread is hysterically funny. I knew it would eventually get RJ foaming about Californians.
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Jan 24, 2012 - 11:52am PT
|
Russ,
I would like one of the new caps. If I send you a piece of foam recycled from one of my crash pads that I cut to fit the shape of my head, can you knit a ocelot pattern cap around it? It will be like a helmet, but cool...
jb
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 24, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
|
Is that a pun?
Of course.
Kill a pad person, save a Natural rat.
And it just keeps getting better and better.
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RtM
climber
DHS
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Jan 24, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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Russ - 1 or 2 might be ok, and a couple of attentative spotters!
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RtM
climber
DHS
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Jan 24, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
|
*yawn*
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RtM
climber
DHS
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Jan 24, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
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I'm just psyched to be climbing - Trad, Bouldering, whatever....even Sport! I also climbed for many a year before the crashpad days, and in general I disapprove of pad posses' - but there are instances where I appreciated a few extra laying around -
gotta love the spot!
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 24, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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I think all the really f*#ked up "Kalis" end up in Idaho.
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jan 24, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
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Is IDAHOE the new France ?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
|
I will send you enough money to cover the re-location costs
As an unemployable bum, leeching off the old lady, where in the hell do yo think you're going to get enough money for a can of vienna sausages, much less relo costs? We don't accept food stamps in lieu of payment, and nobody is interested that taking that broken washing machine on the porch of your trailer for payment either.
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kennyt
climber
California
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
|
It's funny huh? You can make a few word comment and get paragraphs of ramblings in return.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
|
Aryan Fries
Potato Skins
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RtM
climber
DHS
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
|
Heres another one to slam on! I have this pic of Rob Mulligan climbing the Peanut at JT *note the hanging pad on the wall*!
Because, on a prior attempt he skinned his ass good peeling off the problem.
Not justifying pad piles, but I think I would rather see this climbed with pads than to see 3 or 4 shiny bolts and a chain anchor
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kennyt
climber
California
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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And you could paint the bolts and hangers and use some open cold shuts so you don't have to see chain.
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
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Now it's going to get good!!
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kennyt
climber
California
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
|
Hey Rox, What are your feelings on florida if you think Kalis are so f*#ked up ?
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
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Popcorn anybody ?
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Gary
climber
That Long Black Cloud Is Coming Down
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
|
City of Rocks 5.10 = Josh 5.6
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
|
Good lord Rocky, I feel sorry for the people that have to put up with your bullchit on a daily basis.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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Not justifying pad piles, but I think I would rather see this climbed with pads than to see 3 or 4 shiny bolts and a chain anchor
A TR with no bolts will also work just fine.
Curt
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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Tami...with or without California butter...
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Gary
climber
That Long Black Cloud Is Coming Down
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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roxie: We like and believe in freedom in Idaho. Even for the dumb animals and visiting Kalis.
As long as they're not black.
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RtM
climber
DHS
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
|
Its crazy how bouldering now is the complete polar opposite from what it used to be. When I started climbing, bouldering was the sport of loners and outcasts; people that were trying to get away from the crowds. There was a certain pride in striking off in a random direction by youself, say in Josh, with nothing but shoes and a chalk bag clipped to your belt loop. No plan, no agenda, just wherever you end up.
And now?
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WBraun
climber
|
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|
Jan 24, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
|
Rtm -- "And Now?"
You're wasting time on the internet instead of "striking off in a random direction by yourself, no plan, no agenda, just wherever you end up."
Look where you ended up .... LOL
:-)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
|
Just like old times.
Thanks Rox!
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
|
A TR with no bolts will also work just fine.
Curt
Haven't you heard?
Top ropes don't count in climbing advertising.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
|
Clearly, if that landslide on #120 had used enough pads, the highway wouldn't be closed now, watch say?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
|
The most pads I've ever used for a prob is four or five, and I was glad to have 'em. High, hard, scary problems (on the bvb scale, anyhow.) At 54 years old the knees ain't what they used to be, but I still like to air it out on occasion.
I also make a deliberate point of not using them at all once in a while, just to keep the oldskool flame alive. Plus it impresses the youngsters -- with my stupidity. Just as Weschrist.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
|
Rox, last time we climbed together (new route in progress, arches apron, just left of GBG, July/August '77) you seemed to love Kali. And as a young Grom you taught me some things about new routing that I put to good use years later. Plus you kept me, uh, "party favored" as an added bonus, gratis.
I remember at the end of that summer, when Watusi and I were penniless, starving, and truly down-and-out, you gave us a ride from the Valley to LA so we could get home, asking for and expecting NO gas money, and fed us some grub along the way. You can huff and puff on the TardWeb all you want, but I know what you're trying to hide under all that bluster.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
|
Or Sheep Buggering. They do have sheep in I'Z-A-HO, right?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
|
drn-n-ner, ner-ner, ner-ner, ner-ner, ner
|
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
|
So, weakwrist's shtick for the last decade or so is that he's "young", perhaps, virginal?
Rox' is that of a southern redneck raised in "Kali" who has seen the light and escaped to the nirvana of "I don't know" while remaining similarly pure.
Anyone ever see a photo of them together? They are the same, nonclimbing, troll ain't "he"?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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Jan 24, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
|
Is that the time I drove off the freeway at 70, into the grass, woke up and just cruised full speed back into my lane? Nobody said a word at the time as I recall.
I could be wrong about that...
OOOOOOh yeah, that was you. We were on the I-5 about 50 miles north of Bakerfield.
Good times!
You prolly don't remember it being Watusi 'cause he was, like, 9 years old at the time, and looked a little different...
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corcoran
climber
Eugene, OR
|
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Jan 25, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
|
I have nothing better to do with my time than publicly criticize other people on teh.interwebs for climbing things that I will never have the strength or courage to even contemplate attempting, in a style that is completely harmless to the rock or other people, but nonetheless, a style which I find distasteful.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
|
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Jan 25, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
|
jeebus, this is still going?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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Jan 25, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
|
Like an energizer bunny, Kerwin.
Ankle saver stack, highball, hard, questionable landing:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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Jan 25, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
|
Of course, we can always go back to the oldskool tactics:
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Jan 25, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
|
fattrad, 1,000,000 of course.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
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Jan 25, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
|
Man, the projection on this thread is high comedy.
Unemployable taterhead bum Rox, thinks a guy who does field work half the time and thus sleeps in the rig while on assignment is a bum. Roxy, you do understand that Wes works? Like a job? Like the thing that nobody will hire you for because you're a ridiculous long winded blowhard jerkoff? Yeah, that's you, engaged in projection.
And the delicate little flower Coz, who is in perhaps the gayest picture ever posted on the taco that wasn't from the Homoclimbtastic boys, the same Coz that brags about how many dudes he can squeeze in his hotub...is talking about someone being a poofter? Coz, lookup "projection" ya fairy.
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KDD
climber
bishop
|
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|
Jan 25, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
|
the thing is big and real, pads no pads if you start up it and really commit to the climbing, down-climbing would be a nightmare.
many folks have eyed it for sure, myself included and it never registered to drag that many pads out, you need lots, the landing is BAD. my vision was limited, his was not, no better no worse.
i was present to watch alex, he was suprised by the quantity of pads that showed up. i brought him one as well.
someone will top-rope it and solo it with no pads.
someone may just walk up and climb it.
it was a great piece of climbing that i really enjoyed watching.
super inspiring and fun to be a part of.
nice work alex
kevin daniels
|
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
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|
Jan 25, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
|
Thanks Kevin for getting things back on track.
proud send
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
|
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|
Jan 25, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
|
So maybe it went like this: Alex mentioned that the landing was heinous and he wondered if a few friends wouldn't mind bringing their pads... Thinking maybe 4 or 5 would end up being used....
So what was he supposed to do when so many people who like him and want to support him, Na d who knows, maybe even a few girls thinking they can make a move on him afterwards and that pad might come in ha......umm, anyway, back to the story.
So what is he supposed to do? Say to himself "How many pads is too many? And how do I tell my friends who brought their pad along that, no, I think I'd better not have TOO many pads..."
Maybe the pad numbers that arrived was organic, spontaneous, and not something he even considered?
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
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Jan 25, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
|
thats what I was thinking, Happie.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
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|
Jan 25, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
|
You seem to sometimes be stranded in your own little world.
|
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
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|
Jan 25, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
|
Are we talking Mondo pads or smaller ones? That can make a difference. Someone should do some math, and maybe come up with an algorithm based on different brands and models. It would probably make a cool App. You enter in your pads, a difficult rating, a landing rating and the height of the boulder, and it tells you how "manly" you are. I'm thinking that Honnold's efforts on Too Big to Flail would score well.
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kennyt
climber
California
|
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|
Jan 25, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
|
Hey Rox, would you use a bouldering pad lined and filled with with wolf pelts?
|
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
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Jan 25, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
|
What is that SMELL!!!
|
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
|
ElCapinCozsAss is MTucker. Did you not get the memo?
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Broken
climber
Texas
|
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|
Jan 25, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
|
Regarding Russ' question...
Kevin Jorgeson addressed that question in an interview after he used a ton of pads on something. I can't recall the exact quote, but it was ~"I use as many pads as necessary to cover the landing zone. In this case, it still didn't make it safe."
...
Great post from Kevin Daniels. Words from someone who is out there doing it really cut right through all the B.S. on this thread...
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
|
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|
Jan 25, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
|
This Coz dude seems to have some well thought out posts for someone that needs spell check to get cuz correct. Sheesh.
Cannot believe that dude passed up the no shower chick and the Tempurpedick.
I mean DAM!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
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Jan 25, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
|
For those who don't have time to read the entire thread, a synopsis.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
|
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Jan 25, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
|
^^^ Excellent.
Curt
|
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
|
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Jan 25, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
|
one.
|
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klk
Trad climber
cali
|
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|
Jan 25, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
|
Words from someone who is out there doing it really cut right through all the B.S. on this thread...
leatherface couldn't cut thru the bs on this thread.
|
|
corniss chopper
climber
breaking the speed of gravity
|
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|
Jan 26, 2012 - 12:01am PT
|
Some think that you can never have too many pads. Others just accept
the fact its gonna hurt.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
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|
Jan 26, 2012 - 01:20am PT
|
Jim Pettigrew bouldering behind camp4.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
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|
Jan 26, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
|
What is inside a FISH Maxipad?
How come no cut-away diagram on the site?
What is REALLY inside of those things?
|
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
|
I've looked in mine, once.... Believe me, you don't want to know!
|
|
damo62
Social climber
Brisbane
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
|
LOL C Chopper, that belongs in the clouds thread!
|
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
|
Hi Coz-
I heard about a stunt once, perhaps it was only a theoretical plan, where a skydiver jumped without a parachute and landed on top of one of the spires in Castle Valley, where a huge air mattress had been installed (you know, the kind where the whole thing foofs up and wraps around the falling person).
Did that ever really happen?
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WBraun
climber
|
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|
Jan 27, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
|
Never say never Hank.
Some psycho will definitely try to prove you wrong.
Yabo once was ready to do the psycho impossible.
I knew he would fuk himself up real bad if he failed and tried talk him out of it.
He didn't listen :-)
He had to prove me wrong.
He made it !!! ..... LOL
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
|
yeh, it was probably just a concept being discussed--it's a vague memory, but I think I heard about it from one of the other Hollywood rigger types when I was working some film job in Moab way back in the day, but it seemed like some plan was in the works.
What are those giant foofy Hollywood pads called? I wonder what is the max speed a human could enter them and live.
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WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
|
I posted a YouTube video a while back of a stunt man flying out of a window from 30 stories up or so into a Hollywood air bag.
Didn't coz blow that air bag all by himself using only his own breath?
:-)
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
|
Toproping looks safer, and cheaper too.....
How much do all those things cost anyway?
Do I need one?
What color should it be?
How did we ever get up anything without all those?
|
|
Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
|
Out at Gunsmoke one day a few of us started making attempts on High Noon, the straight up highball near the middle of the traverse. It has a couple fairly committing moves at the top.
Over a stack of 3 or 4 pads our buddy went for it, missed the final slap, and came down right in the middle of those pads. My hands were on his torso in an attempt to spot. Despite the pads and spotters (there were at least 2 or 3)dude broke his leg very badly right above the ankle (looked like the bone was really trying hard to push through the skin.
The pads did come in handy as we put him on one and carried him out to the parking lot. I'll never forget his pained bewildered expression as we brought him to the waiting car.
Seems his foot came down on the spot where 2 pads overlapped.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
|
For an enlightened one, you sure are pretty dim sometimes WB.
That video cracked me up tho !
|
|
Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
|
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|
Jan 27, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
|
Especially "the lamentation of their women"
Big words, for a barbarian . . .
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
|
Pretty awesome huh ß Î Ø T Ç H
After we lit wechrist on fire he runs out of the building like the girl he is.
Fortunately for wes they had to use the bad azz double we see in that video ....
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
|
Wes! Waddup dawg? Still making friends wherever you go, I see!
|
|
Gary
climber
That Long Black Cloud Is Coming Down
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
|
Weschrist gets flamed and makes quick exit.
http://video.mpora.com/watch/I0OUyWYrP/
Can't get any better than this?
Hankster, don't get any ideas, man!
|
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WBraun
climber
|
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|
Jan 27, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
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Coz means ....
When your sh!t floats it's all good.
When your sh!t sinks, "We have a problem Houston"
Next time you take a sh!t in the toilet bowel observe ....
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 27, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
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You need to take this forum more seriously In what universe do you think this forum would be taken seriously?
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 27, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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My buddie drags one of those things around for his dog to sleep on.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 27, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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and rocked a few 3 hour core workouts all in the last 4-5 days.
It takes you three hours to get a good core workout?
Good grief man. I can show you some routines which will have you 100% pasted in an hour max. Seriously. I don't care how strong you are. I'll have you thinking you're done in 10 minutes but we'll squeeze an hour out of you...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 28, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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PADS, godammit! American Legend's got MANY, yo. Motherfukkin bitches best respect.
and a dog.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 28, 2012 - 04:47am PT
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Alot of highballing is just a desperate gimmick to somehow get back on the front page. The OP's picture is not even bouldering by definition, it's more of a publicity stunt. See how he's basically faceclimbing? No contortion, and no mantel(s) here I guarantee you.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 31, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
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Hamie, that is "See Spot Run" - V6 at Hueco. Death landing, no redemption above 20 feet, where the crux is. I down-climbed that thing like 10 times.
uhh... you sure? It *is* tall, but has a perfect flat landing and the crux is low. I think Kauk did it in a poncho and huaraches. Probably not even PG.
Yeah, I think you are right - I was thinking about one of the V6's that Sherman used the "Scottrope" (Scott Blunk spotting). I can't find my Hueco Tanks guide, but definitely had a horrendous landing with the crux near the lip.
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