Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated - The Resurrection of th

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giggio

climber
Milano, Italy
Jan 23, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
So Enzolino by the extension of your logic of precedence can i show up in the Dolomites and haul a gas compressor to bolt a directisima ladder on any wall I want and leave the machinery hanging if I want?

philo, your proposal is quite old-fashioned: lots of people in the '50/'60, except for the use of a compressor, already did it in the Dolomites.
After some time, in '70s and '80s, many climbers of the new generation did a lot of efforts to free climb that lines... and succeeded. To have fun and show to everybody that a different style was possible... but without the necessity to raise up crusades and consider themselves as the priests of puriry.
Gene

climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
Alpinist has received confirmation that Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk did indeed chop over a hundred bolts off of the Compressor Route. One hundred and two bolts from the route were confiscated by local police. Police detained the two climbers after "a group of forty people [who] went to lynch the Canadian climber Jason Kruk in the parlor of Miguel Burgos..." Kennedy and Kruk are currently in the mountains with friends. They will prepare a press report in the coming days.

In the meantime, Planetmountain.com has reported that David Lama, a climber familiar with Cerro Torre controversies, has successfully free climbed the Compressor Route. Details about Lama's ascent remain scarce though it is known that a film team climbed Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route prior to Lama's free climb.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-update-compressor
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 23, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
Yes Giggio it was the use of a gas powered compressor to blatantly over bolt a failed route that has me believing the chopping was a good thing. Where else has this ever been done? How can Maestri's crime be justified on historic merit? It was a disgrace to the memory of Toni Eggar and the whole of the climbing world. Made worse by Maestri's continued lying and legal reactions to his detractors.
But if that is the legacy you want to preserve then OK go for it.

You know that pesky ice mushroom sure causes lots of people grief. Why not fly up to the summit in a helicopter Blast in some major anchors and hang a permanent ladder down the head wall? That way those who believe thye have been robbed of a golden opportunity can still brag they summited Cerro Torre.
BlackSpider

Ice climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
What's the accepted timeframe at which point trash and garbage ceases to be so and becomes "historical artifacts" instead? For instance, if someone finds an oxygen bottle from a 1920s British expedition on Everest, should it be left up there?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 23, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
Or a bust of Mao?
Stambecco

Trad climber
italy
Jan 23, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
I only think those two guys are young and brilliant, and they made a decision that is strong exactly because of their age. Maestri bolted the route in reaction of what was said about him and Egger ascent and lots of people commented it for 40 years. 40 years of bla bla. And it took 40 years to have somebody that re-reacted to this thing. It's history, ok. But if I could chance what Nazism did in the thirties and in the fourties, I would do it, even if it is part of the history!
Back to the climbing, I don't know if they were right or wrong. But exactly like Maestri (was he right?), they did something, all the rest is blabla. I'm pretty sure, having seen and listened to Maestri, he would have appreciated more those two climbers than the rest of thousands who only talked about.



ot, after schettino, Italy has another superman, fòradaiball, who, luckily, does not represent the 0,0001% of the population. I apologise for his stupid behaviour, it's like a madman, let him speak and always tell him he is right and that we are all friend of him, and so on...
bmacd

Mountain climber
100% Canadian
Jan 23, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
Jan 21st Interview with Jason, Hayden, Colin and Rolo in the El Chalten Diary Online

http://www.lacachania.com.ar/noticia.php?id_nota=185&id_seccion=1
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Jan 23, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
I spoke with my buddy Tim who has done the Compressor Route although he did not summit the snow mushroom, and he is disappointed that this happened, and felt this was a historic route and a unneeded action.

Gene

climber
Jan 23, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
Can anyone tell me where the Ragni route is? my head is starting to spin


Good stuff on Rolo's site. The right side of page has links to the individual routes.

http://www.pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/torregroup/torre.html




aran

Trad climber
oakland, ca
Jan 23, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
Thanks for the link BMACD. Great interview, there commentary is pretty much what I expected- thoughtful, respectful but unapologetic and direct.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 23, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
The Ragni Route is on the West Face.


Studly, Though he may have A1ed up the bolt ladder, without finishing to the summit your friend did not do the route.
Cosimon

climber
Boulder, CO
Jan 23, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
Now ascents of Cerro Torre will be more special.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 23, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
http://www.lacachania.com.ar/noticia.php?id_nota=185&id_seccion=1

Can anyone translate this?
YoungGun

climber
North
Jan 23, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
Dave's KKK term gains momentum:

Earlier this week the team of Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk chopped the historically significant and controversial Compressor Route on Cerro Torre leading some climbers to characterize the situation as the Kennedy-Kruk-Kontroversy (KKK). While few climbers believe that Cesare Maesti’s Compressor route embodies the current ideals for alpine climbing, most were reticent about erasing the route. The reaction in the climbing community is understandably divided. The anti-bolt fans whose position has been fuelled for years by Rolando Garibotti’s chopping campaign are positive, but others are concerned about the seemingly cavalier attitude of ignoring the historical significance of the climb and the results of a 2007 vote held in the nearby town of El Chalten that concluded the route should not be chopped.

Many have said that Kennedy and Kruk didn’t have the right to remove such a historically significant route without wider consultation - especially since many of the locals feel the route should stay. Some argue that Kennedy and Kruk have not climbed the full Compressor Route but rather a more logical variation where they used four bolts placed by other parties and one placed by Kruk last year during his attempt on the wall. Reports also suggest that the team used the bolted belays from Maestri’s route.

Reports also suggest that when Kennedy and Kruk got back to camp they were confronted by a group of local climbers demanding an explanation for their actions. During this time the police arrived and confiscated the chopped bolts and took them to the police station to take a statement.

http://gripped.com/2012/01/sections/news/jan-23-2012-kkk-situation-rages-on-cerro-torre/
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Jan 23, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
Affirmative Bruce.
Philo, use Google translating, and then just copy and paste.
In reference to your earlier comment, I think sometimes conditions dictate otherwise when you're in the mountains, and I beg to differ with you that he didn't do the route if he climbed all the way to the summit mushroom. He didn't summit perhaps but he did the route. but whatever, it doesn't matter. What does matter is many people should have had a voice in this. Thats all.
Now as a climbing community we have to move on to where it goes next.
tarallo

Trad climber
italy
Jan 23, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
no only the harding slot....you should try it....foradaiball you are a great dickhead
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 23, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
Hanging in stirrups clipping up a bolt ladder placed in horrible style by someone else when a perfectly good real climb exists is stupid. Going that way simply because it is there and been done before is equally stupid. Claiming glory for not summiting is pathetic. If you can't do it without dragging it down to your level you shouldn't be there.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jan 23, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
Have you climbed Cerro Torre Philo?
Kimbo

Sport climber
seattle
Jan 23, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
Pay homage? Where did you get that? I repeatedly have said, "for better or for worse," that right or wrong was not my issue here.

ok my misunderstanding of where your personal sentiments lie.

My point is that "they took it upon themselves," to use your phrase. This is the "direct action" I spoke about and to which the vanguard had always practiced." All the yammering and judgments after the fact are perhaps important in a general, policy-defining kind of way, but the vangard is not expected to define their intentions through other's opinions, which are none of their business. That's just the way they roll, and we're powerless over that.

i think you may be misunderstanding the term "vanguard"....

regardless, i would argue that the two "boys" absolutely did "define their intentions through other's opinions", simply because it's rather impossible for us humanoids to live in a vacuum: undoubtedly they had massive exposure to various arguments related to the compressor route, and chose between competing factions as a model for their actions (ok ok we certainly get into deeper theoretical ideas regarding human "creativity", but i'll leave it at that).

"the vanguard" is not an amoral abstraction, as you seem to imply. "the vanguard" is composed of individual humanoids, "responsible" for their own actions and the consequences of their actions. sometimes humanoids succeed in carrying out actions which are accepted or not; at other times they do not succeed in carrying out those actions (meaning: "we" are not "powerless over that".

Another thing is that the vaugard, if authentic, always pushes the bar up - not sideways or down.

that's a rather moralistic view of the (amoral) "vanguard", eh? and, if even theoretically accurate, certainly not applicable to the two climbers in question: the two climbers climbed a friggin' 5.11 A2 via A DIFFERENT LINE, and then removed bolts from a climb they DIDN'T DO!

there was no "bar" being pushed upwards. they did nothing revolutionary in terms of difficulty or style. all they did was climb a moderately difficult new line and remove some old bolts from an old line.

"vanguard"? more accurately "rear-guard": protectors of an old-skool ethicism which completely ignored more modern context and prevailing sentiment.
gimmeslack

Trad climber
VA
Jan 23, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
Philo: re translation, I did translate the meat of the intereview a while back (when text was first posted). Back around post 265...
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