Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated - The Resurrection of th


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Hobart, Australia
Mar 14, 2012 - 06:07am PT
Wow! Undoubtably, one of Bridwell's best pieces ever. And he has had some fascinating ideas in his time.

Perhaps a bit extreme in the America bashing though--America's got one thing going for it, and that's the entrepreneurial spirit, which may someday help fix the current political mess.

I reckon yanks will have one more go before their number is up. Don't give up on America just yet, Jim....

Galgenen, Switzerland
Mar 14, 2012 - 07:36am PT
Bridwell's article is bit long. I agree on his accusation on the ignorance and arrogance of these two boys. A bit less on some of his arguments ...

Furthermore it shows other facts. For example, that is not about a national issue, but mainly about a perception and sensitivity of what climbing history means, and its respect for good and less good past achievements ...

By the way ... hey ... Jim ... if you want an Italian citizenship ... you are welcome ... there are still plenty of routes you can open in the Alps ... :-)

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 14, 2012 - 09:35am PT
Jim says that lots of US citizens are ignorant, unfortunately, he's right.

I agree wholeheartedly with the post that says this is not limited to Americans. Yes, there are lots of ignorant Americans, but it certainly isn't limited to American citizens. Ignorant people all over the world brother.

And Bridwell is known as our balls out climbing hero, not one of the leading intellectuals of our time......

He's got more room to spew about the compressor route than most of us, but the whole of the USA and the downfall of civilization? Geebus, gimme a break. What exactly has he done to move the human race forward except stroke his exceptional climbing dong?

Certainly I would need far more knowledge of what these American climbers did on the climb, to render more than what would amount to ignorant prejudice.
And then he goes on....

Sport climber
Mar 14, 2012 - 10:45am PT
I have to agree with the Canadians. The dead horse, the choppers, were Canadian. At least one of them.

And I have to agree with Bridwell. They were ignorant and it was an aggressive act.

And the clapping and the laughing of old men - that was just the acts of an unthinking mob.

And if this is the situation in America at the moment - polarized aggression, laughing and clapping - the spinning of truth, instead of informed choice as an ideal - well then Bridwell has got a point worth considering there too - I don't find the culture of many European countries to be in such a state.

Edited - MH2: In my view chopping is as well established as is chipping. Climbers know what it is. And chopping may include more that just a "pulling movement" to be able to pull the bolts out. Do you see a problem in the use of the words chopping and chipping?

Mar 14, 2012 - 11:01am PT
For the last bloody time they were Canucks

As long as we are trying to make things clear, the bolts were pulled, not chopped.


Do you see a problem in the use of the words chopping and chipping?

The word chopping is inaccurate in this case.

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 14, 2012 - 11:20am PT
deuce4: Don't give up on America just yet, Jim....

Heynowwaitadamnminute, aren't you writing this from your new home in Hobart, Tasmania?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 14, 2012 - 11:47am PT
I don't think that enzolino is aware of Jim's departure from the Cliffhanger set when he suggests he seek Italian citizenship!

That said, despite poor editing, I get what Jim says, and though I don't believe in God it amazes me to see just how much else Jim and I are in agreement on.

I wish I knew how to transfer that photo of Donini and Bridwell in the lawn chairs, reading, from my one TR.
(Or chairman meow's photo of Bridwell taking aim with the rifle)

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 14, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
I would suggest to all climbers of great ambition some positive adjustments in motivational aims, to lean more toward adventure and mystery and less towards control in the perfection of means. There is no adventure in climbing comparable to a first ascent. If climbers want to prove their virtuosity and prowess, this purpose would best be served in doing their own first ascent. But they should be prepared for the judgement from future self-righteous climbers to bring vengeance upon their route.

He could've just left it at that, a good paragraph.

Edit: Largo, why'd you take your post out?

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 14, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
I don't think that enzolino is aware of Jim's departure from the Cliffhanger set when he suggests he seek Italian citizenship!

I think the Spanish were as much to blame...

Hobart, Australia
Mar 14, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
I really think Jim's line of thought has some brilliance. It's about ideas, not about punctuation, don't you think? And there's some mighty ideas in that piece, rarely seen in climbing literature. Not quite as refined as John Long's deeper connections, but there nevertheless. You don't have to agree with everything he says to see that the piece contains some deep thought on the meaning and purposes of climbing, and it comes from someone who has lived it on the edge beyond most people's comprehension.
Stewart Johnson

lake forest
Mar 14, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
im raising my pint to jim.

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Mar 14, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
Bridwell is the real deal, but after reading this, and being nonpartisan until now, I'm with the Canadian and Canadian-American.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 14, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
Luca Signorelli

Mountain climber
Courmayeur (Vda) Italy
Mar 25, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
Unfortunately, some awful news (nothing to do with the Compressor Route). "Enzolino", whose real name was Lorenzo Castaldi, 40 years old, died this morning during a (for him) routine ascension of the north face of Ortles. He was avalanched together with three other climbers. He and a 35 years old Spanish man died, while the other two survived.

Lorenzo was born in Sardinia, but he has moved from many years to Zurich, where he had married. He is survived by his wife and a two years old son, Manuel. Despite not being known outside Italy, he was an excellent all rounder with a prestigious resume as a rock climber and mountaineer. He was well known into the Italian climbing community because of his talent and his energetic and often abrasive personality, and I believe he'll be greatly missed.

Sport climber
Mar 25, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
I'm so sorry to hear. RIP Lorenzo!
the goat

north central WA
Mar 25, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
Very sorry to hear this news, "Enzo" had some real insight on this thread. Has this been a crazy avey year or what?!!

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Mar 25, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
What terrible news.My heart goes out to his family and friends.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 25, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
Gads, not again. SO SORRY. Condolences to "Enzolino" and his family.
The cad

Does it matter, really?!?
Mar 26, 2012 - 01:38am PT
Here is a document by Lorenzo (from Alpinist's web site): http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/readers-blog-the-beauty-and-the-choppers

Ciao, Enzolino

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 26, 2012 - 03:09am PT
That's a drag, we hadn't yet really gotten to know him...
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