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steve shea
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 17, 2012 - 09:58am PT
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Jack was my partner on the Dru Couloir Direct and other adventures. He was the quintessential alpinist and great company. RIP. Sad news.
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Amy Skinner Underwood
climber
Mancos, CO
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Jan 17, 2012 - 10:34am PT
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Pam- I have fond memories of the golden days in the Black Hills and Wild Iris when you and Jack would stop in. Please know I'm holding you in my thoughts. Later, when you can breathe, I'd love to talk with you. amysunderwood@yahoo.com
With love and sorrow,
Amy
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 17, 2012 - 11:06am PT
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Another gentle giant has left us too soon...
To Pam and their community of friends and family, my thoughts and prayers go out to you in recovery from this unexpected loss.
Jack lived the life and shared his passion and adventures with his many clients and thankfully with us here on the ST. I had the pleasure of meeting him briefly through Dane Burns and had hoped to sit with him and record his story. I had no sense that this was coming.
Rest in Peace Brother...While you were here you were an inspiration and a guiding light.
Shine on until we meet again!
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Cagey Veteran
Ice climber
Livingston, MT
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Jan 17, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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At the below Facebook link are some wonderful images of Jack from the recent Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival courtesy of Claudia Lopez. Other than local organizers, Jack was the only person to ever make it to all 15 Bozeman Ice Fests, usually coming on his own dime and for little pay beyond a bottle of scotch. He was the best teacher I've ever had the privilege to work with.
Lots of love to you Jack and Pam.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.3038460398640.150059.1176904446&type=3
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Grampa
Trad climber
OC in So Cal
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Jan 17, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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I did a number of climbs with Jack BITD. He was a great guy and a strong climber.
Sad news.
RIP
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jan 17, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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A sad event. I haven't seen Jack since the 70s. He was in the group of
climbers I tagged along with when I was a novice: the G&E Buff climbers,
aka the Santa Monica bunch. Spent a memorable rainy night in my VW
squareback at Camp 4, four of us, rocked to sleep by Dave Black's shivering.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 17, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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Wasn't he at jello's birthday at Snowbasin?
I had no notion,.. so sad.
RIP
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 17, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
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This is bad for us, and my condolences to Jack's wife and all of his friends.
I started at the same place - So Cal - at the same time, and broke in on much of the same stuff (Tahquitz) as Jack, many time WITH Jack (early on), who did some seminal climbs with the Stonemasters.
FYI, Jack was one of the early big wall masters. Rock and Ice wrote:
Roberts, 59, climbed for 41 years, making numerous ascents of Bridalveil, and was well known for serious Canadian Rockies first winter ascents of the North Face of Mt. Robson and the Central Couloir on Mount Kitchener, both in the late 1970s and done with Tobin Sorenson, famed and now-deceased member of the historic Stonemasters crew. Roberts, with Dale Bard (another Stonemaster), also made the first free ascent of the big Canadian ice line Polar Circus. In Yosemite, in the early and mid-1970s, Roberts bagged the second ascents of The Shield, Zodiac, Tangerine Trip, Tis-Sa-Ack, Cosmos and Mescalito. In Alaska he logged new routes on the southwest face of Denali, Mt. Huntington, Mount Lewis and Mount Kennedy.
Jack Roberts was a climber.
JL
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Jan 17, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
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Jack was a good friend. . .df
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 17, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
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hadnt seen him in ages, but remembered him way back then as one of the nicest guys in the scene.
wasnt surprised to see him become a pillar of the community, as well as a terrific climber.
big loss
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Jan 17, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Wow, this is a terrible surprise. Jack was always soooo ballsy I am sort of surprised he lasted this long. My condolences to Jack's family. He was a great climber and will be missed!
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GrahamJ
climber
In the rain
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Jan 17, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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I met Jack in Chamonix last year through a mutual friend and spent several days cragging and hanging out with him. Awesome guy and I'm very sorry to hear of his loss.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Jan 17, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
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Jack was always generous sharing conditions reports of ice and mixed routes. You could send him an email, and get an accurate report back from a guy that was out there checking conditions out, all of the time. He also encouraged folks to get out there and take a look for themselves, as conditions in this activity change so quickly that one report may be old and inaccurate news within a day.
This is shocking news to the Boulder climbing community. My sincere condolences to Pam and all of Jack's family.
Brad White
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 17, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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Very sad to hear. I never climbed with Jack, but he condescended to let me hang around on occasion. We've lost a very good man and a great climber.
John
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 17, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
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from a boulder rag,
"GRAND JUNCTION — A Colorado sheriff says a nationally known climber who wrote books and numerous articles on the subject has died after falling 60 feet during a climb.
San Miguel Sheriff Bill Masters told the Grand Junction Daily Sentinel that the 58-year-old Jack Roberts, of Boulder, suffered a broken hip in Sunday's fall and went into cardiac arrest during the rescue.
Roberts had been climbing on the Bridal Veil Ice Falls east of Telluride in San Miguel County. Members of the San Miguel County Search and Rescue Team spent 40 minutes trying to resuscitate him.
Roberts had been a climber for more than 40 years and was well known in the climbing community as a guide and instructor. "
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 17, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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So sorry to hear this. My thoughts are with those that cared about him.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jan 17, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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Sorry to hear this. Jack was the real deal. He will be missed.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jan 17, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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I never met Jack, but hung and climbed with many of his pals from his time here. From my earliest days climbing in southern california, he was always referred to in an honorable yet badass reference. "Aye Jack, yur a hard man!!" was commonly heard.
Sincere condolences to all his friends and family.
Pat Nay
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Jan 17, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
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Never got to meet Jack but I "know" him in the sense that he was one of the guys that began with climbing at Stoney Point with my friends. Michele B. of Boulder Co. climbed with Jack and will miss him. My condolences to all who knew and loved Jack Roberts, Mountain Guide and climber.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Jan 17, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 17, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
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hey there say, steve.... as in my other post, on the accident thread, i am so very sad to hear of the loss of jack...
and to all the climbers here, my deep condolences in the loss of jack, who was a good friend to all...
i enjoyed reading his post, among you all... and seeing his love for the
ice climbs... (though i only just NOW learned how accomplished he was, and how very well known, too)
thank you largo for sharing more on jack...
my deep prayers and condolences to his wife pam...
once again, very sad and sorry to hear this...
:(
god bless at this awfully hard time...
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jan 17, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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Very, very sad news. He was an inspiration, even to those of us who didn't have the pleasure of meeting him in person. Condolences to his wife and to all those who knew and loved him.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jan 17, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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Condolences to his wife and family. Sad news.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Jan 17, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
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Thanks for everything Jack, you will be missed dearly.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Jan 17, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
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I'm so sad to hear about Jack's passing; he was a talented climber and nice guy.
At least he died doing what he loved.
My condolences.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Jan 17, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
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So sad another member of the tribe gone. I never climbed with Jack but met him several times thru the years. We camped together at the Columbia icefields for strectch of bad weather in the early 80's and had a blast just camping, then we had some beers together in Talkeetna a decade or so later and then spent a day in Indian Creek a few years ago cragging near each other. Always was a good humble guy and rock solid. I hate seeing the old guard go, the ones who were in it just for the love of it, not the glory. I really feel for his wife who I never met. I'm sure she is just as great a person as Jack. RIP.
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hucklebear
Trad climber
NY
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Jan 17, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
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I was fortunate to meet & climb with Jack last week in Ouray. He was gracious, extremely knowledgable and a great teacher to spend the day with.
Photo was taken just after drippy weather turned to magical powdery flakes:
Much appreciation for his considerable contributions to the sport(s) and deep condolences to his family & friends.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 17, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
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one man's life
is another man's dream.
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JohnHemlock
Mountain climber
CO
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Jan 17, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
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I went out and bought $100 worth of anejo and a dollar worth of limes.
RIP, old friend. Sorry I pulled the wrong rope and almost stranded us once. Sorry I almost got us in a fistfight with Russian mobsters. Sorry I made fun of your Frankenfeet.
Most of all, I am sorry you aren't here to kill this bottle with me.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 17, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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Never knew the man but this makes me so sad...
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Jan 17, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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rest in peace bro...
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jan 17, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
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Jack bouldering near Al Harris' house. Wales, 1977. Photo by Al Harris.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 17, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Sad to hear this.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jan 17, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
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Posting up the JR photos that I put on the first thread and a couple more...
RIP JR...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jan 17, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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Jack was an awesome individual--high energy and immensely warm hearted. He will be missed.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 18, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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I did not have the luxury of many of you of knowing Jack for decades. I met him and Pam when I moved here to Boulder. Saw them at the crags, but mostly at Cindy Foley and Clyde Soles' house parties. They were a huge part of my reason for always going (as of course were Cindy and Cylde and their awesome cats).
I have no photos, but I can share three things that stand out very prominently about Jack.
1. Twinkle in his eyes. Always. Not sure I know anyone else like that.
2. Those feet! He had legendary feet. Given my own feet issues, we discussed feet at parties. :) I remember talking to the podiatrist about a guy (no names mentioned) with the most amazing feet. I later learned Jack was seeing the same doc. I wondered if the doc thought "this is the guy she was talking about".
3. Love of Pam. Nothing more attractive than a person who clearly and openly loves their spouse. It is really beautiful and special.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Jan 18, 2012 - 12:23am PT
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Wow just saw this.
Bums me out loosing a friend. Happy I got to talk with him again a few years back.
My deepest condolences to his family and his extended friends.
Mike Graham
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edkeller
Boulder climber
NY
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Jan 18, 2012 - 12:27am PT
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Climbed with Jack and Pam in the Valley/Meadows in the 80s, over a few weeks. Both incredibly special people. Jack treated me [clueless young kid] with great generosity. I guess I was lucky that I met some stellar people back then, he was one. Climbs I remember ... Rostrum... some mellow cragging in Tuolumne... anything we got on was great fun. I knew at the time he was an all-round master, but he was so mellow... I also remember an epic sunday brunch at the Ahwahnee followed by hours of sunday papers and swimming in the river...Now I've not seen him in 25+ years and won't again, and deeply regret not going to Boulder last summer to climb. He was a wonderful, wonderful guy and I send Pam all good thoughts possible. Farewell, RIP.
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JohnHemlock
Mountain climber
CO
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Jan 18, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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A few years ago, in Switzerland. I think he looked serious because they were about out of wine. So we drank all the grappa in the hut.
This spring I skied up the Ruth to take a look at the Timeless Face on Huntington. I about sh#t my pants. There was nothing about that gargoyle that said, "Climb me." I was thankful not to be on that face. But moreso, I was thankful there are people like Jack to remind the rest of us what is possible if you are willing to try.
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jan 18, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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Crimper said it well,
He had always a twinkle in his eyes,
Whether it was 3 am and a passing on the trail near Longs Peak with a headlamp on, or in passing in Eldo......
I've thought about this all day today....
And I only knew him as for what he was not him, knowing him as another guide and a climber you always ran into when you were "out and about"
He was and is a legend................
He will be missed like so many others.....
Rest in Peace......
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Jan 18, 2012 - 01:35am PT
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Rest in peace, kindred spirit.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jan 18, 2012 - 01:46am PT
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Jack was one of my generations' guiding lights. Whatever the medium; rock, ice, mixed, sandstone, granite, bolted limestone, big alpine routes, he loved to climb it all. He was also a people person. When we were filming on the Eiger last spring, Jack was showing a young client the ropes over in Chamonix. The list of routes they had done was pretty impressive, and when Jack and his young buck had a spare day, they did the long drive to Grindelwald just to say hello and spend a few hours
chatting in our chalet. Jack had really set the hook deep: his client was bubbling over with enthusiasm for the alpine world Jackhad given him a solid grounding in. Jack was beaming with happiness. He was doing the work he loved. Without spending the night, guide and client left about mid-evening to make the long drive back to Chamonix.
Jack Roberts was an outstanding role model, a climber to the core and irreplaceable. We have all lost a good friend, but Pam's loss is huge and my heart aches for her. I love you Pam, I love you Jack.
Jeff Lowe
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Conner
Mountain climber
Donnelly, Idaho
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Jan 18, 2012 - 02:22am PT
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As I approached Jeff and Jack talking I could see the intimate conversation unfolding. I kept my distance so that they might continue what turned out to be a very meaningful conversation indeed. jack thanked me later for giving them some time. it was truely my pleasure to see these two alpha males being so warm and open with each other. Not many in their league - elders of the tribe sharing a private moment... I will sorely miss you Jack.
You have literally popped into my life from time to time. In 2009 I got a call from you. I was a bit concerned, as it was usually Pam that would call. We exchanged the niceties and then you asked me exactly where I lived. I told you a small town near McCall Idaho. Knowing that your Mom and sister lived in Idaho, I asked where you were. In McCall you replied. Where exactly I asked. At the hospital. I thought they might know the doula in town. I laughed heartily and since I was also in McCall we met up and you came to hang at my place til you wandered up the road to see your Mom and sis.
Awhile later I was working in Bishop CA. I was driving to the grocery store at about 7am. I passed a coffee shop and barely registered a honda element that looked like yours. Nah - what would Jack be doing in Bishop? Then at the Albertsons, I turn the corner and there you were! Holy Cow! I got you a ticket to the Banff Mtn Film Fest for that night since I had plans to go. We went the next night too. Always so fun to see you Jack, and even more so when Pam is around.
There are few couples that I am honestly dear friends with both husband and wife. I think it was easy because I knew you first Jack. Pam was easy to adopt! I'll never forget Pam and I laying in El Cap meadows for 3 days watching you and John climb El Cap. Meeting you two on top was one of the best hikes Pam and I ever did together.
Christmas dinner at your house a few years ago was equally special. I am so blessed to have known you for so long and in some ways, so well. Thanks for helping me load the van in Bozeman after the ice fest. Perhaps you are the brother I never had... or maybe you were the brother I didn't know I had all along. I love you Jack.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jan 18, 2012 - 02:32am PT
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Jack was a great person. He treated me well, always, and it was
always good to see him. I am sad and disappointed. Yet he lived
such a good life, a rich life. There is much to learn of his
life, as I find in these entries. Jack, my friend. Not long,
and I'll be there.
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Johnny A
Trad climber
Point Richmond, CA
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Jan 18, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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Jack. I remember him kicking my ass on a road bike in the early 80's; he trained hard for everything. Impeccable preparation.
We did the Salathe in the 90's and I remember him wanting to free this nasty section but his hands and feet were so sore and we were nearly out of food. " let me rest, I know I can do this." Toughest guy I've ever known.
I am deeply saddened by this event and am hopeful for the good that will come of it.
Jack's loyalty and Love for Pam was exemplary; I will miss him and his ethics.
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Jan 18, 2012 - 06:24am PT
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saw Jack at the ice park the day before this happened, he was busy with clients so I did'nt stop to say hi-kinda bummed now.
Valkeries ride my brother
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 18, 2012 - 10:16am PT
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This is awful news.
My sincere condolences to Jack’s family and friends.
Guy Keesee
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Double D
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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The first time I met Jack, he was bailing from a storm on El Cap's Tangerine Trip where he and Jim Orey were attempting a new line from the 7th pitch or so. The previous night was filled with lightning and a curtain of rain undulated a couple of hundred feet out from our overhanging perch in bat-hammocks. Augie Klein, Max Jones and myself were preparing for the morning's lead when Jack rapps down to us hanging 15 feet out in the air due to the overhang with an infectious grin and explains the situation: "We've run desperately low on provisions... namely beer... and were wondering if we could tie all of our ropes together to rap off." I gazed down at just a white void beneath us as the storm clouds wrapped us in a grayish-white cocoon and pondered if the four ropes between us would do the trick. "Sure", I said as we hauled him into our belay station.
We hung out and foraged for all the rope we could muster up and chatted excitedly about the amazing electrical light show the night before. I'd hear about Jack and his accomplishments but this guy right in front of me was one of the mellowest, low-keyed guys that I'd ever met. He soon drifted out into the white room, not knowing if the ropes hit the ground or not, with a big smile that made me realize just how cool it was to be able to do what we do here and what a special place this was. The ropes did reach all the way allowing them a successful retreat.
I would run into Jack several times of the next few years in Alaska and Yosemite. He always, always had that beaming smile. We will all miss you Jack, but thank you for the smiles while we had you. May you rest in peace brother.
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Clyde
Mountain climber
Boulder
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Jan 18, 2012 - 11:34am PT
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Hi Everyone,
I am putting together the slide show for Jack's memorial service. We'll have an announcement on the time and location soon.
Please send me your best photos along with captions (identify others in the photo, location, date, etc), your full name, and any great quotes and stories. I'll need the photos as jpeg files and they need to be at least 2000 pixels on the long dimension, bigger is better. If you have video, let me know but don't send it yet. I have a preliminary music list from Pam but am open to more suggestions.
Email the photos to me with the subject "Jack photos" at clyde@clydesoles.com. Very important to use that subject so I can keep track of it all.
Thanks!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 18, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Sad news! I'd finally met him a few months ago at a Neptunes (Boulder) slideshow after knowing of him since I was 15. I assumed we'd climb together at some point. My condolences to friends and family.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Jan 18, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
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my condolences to all who shared jack's life. this was in the sky this morning:
the steep remains unmoved
when a soul shifts worlds
more supple is an ethereal sea
bearing waves that wash
at shores of island chains
and the unsheltered harbors
of our tethered hearts
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G&E Buffer
Boulder climber
Santa Monica, Ca.
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Jan 18, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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Jack was a dear old friend of mine , back in the 70's in Santa Monica. We worked together at Westridge Mountaineering , and had many a good time together. Will miss him. Condolences to his family and friends.
Dave Hanbury
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Clyde
Mountain climber
Boulder
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Jan 18, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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The tribe will gather Sunday, January 29th at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO. Hawaiian shirts are encouraged. More details later.
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R.H
climber
las vegas
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Jan 18, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
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Condolences to the family - I was lucky to climb with Jack BITD -
Jack was a good guy, as skilled and as hardcore as they come.
He will be missed.
Richard Harrison
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Cor
climber
Colorado
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Jan 18, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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thanks folks for posting all those nice photos!
:(
stay strong everyone!
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jan 18, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
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Thanks, Steve, for posting this newer thread. Jack is certainly deserving of all the warm messages posted. My condolences to his wife and family, and also to all of us who shared in Jack's life.
I had the experience of going out there on that proverbial limb with Jack back in the Spring of 1976. We decided that Jimmy Dunn's line on the Captain, Cosmos, needed a repeat—since no one had touched it since the FA in 1972. Jimmy had jumared about a 1,000' of fixed line (after his partner was injured) and proceeded to finish Cosmos as a solo FA. At least those were the facts as we knew them...
Not a clue about any beta on the line, no topo, and no equipment list... But Jack was up for this adventure! Carrying twice the gear necessary, and having only hammocks, we headed into the unknown. We swung leads, took many falls, and spent many (uncomfortable) nights together swapping tales and sharing lives. David Bowie was our silent partner.
The going was slow as we followed an uncertain trail. As we began to run out of water, we rationed for another two days. Finally on the eighth day, we topped out, much the worse for wear.
Nothing tests a spirit like eight days of adversity and stress. Jack showed everything he was on that tour. I'm sorry to have lost such a one.
Memories help keep him close...
Robs.
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Jan 18, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Jan 18, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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I met Jack In 77'. For our first climb Jack took me ice/ mixed climbing for the first time on my 19th birthday. We did a couple of climbs on Tahquitz that day and and I learned what it was to be an Alpinist. One of the best days ever. Over the next few years we did many trips together and even had a trip all set to go to Alaska. Jack broke his wrist at Stoney Point a couple of days prior to departure, after that Jack moved to Colorado and we never climbed together again. Jack was a great guy and I will miss our conversations and his friendship. RIP, my friend.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 18, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
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Pam here. I just got in late last night after a long journey back from Cuba, where I finally got the news late Monday afternoon. Not sure I'm ready yet to articulate how I feel. I can say that Jack gave me the best 25 years of my life...he was my best friend in all ways. We did an amazing amount together in such a relatively short time. I'll post again later, but I want you all to know how very much I appreciate reading your words. I am soooo glad to read memories of his smile, his passion, his pure, raw enthusiasm for life that at nearly 60 years old showed no signs of flagging. He was really at a place where he was very happy in all aspects of his life...anyway, he loved all of you, and you all made such a positive impact on his life.
Thank you is too small of a word...........I'll write again.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 18, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
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Jack Roberts was well-known by the usual suspects hanging around Southern California crags in the 70s. In the mid/late 70s, I'd often see him out at Stony Point and I enjoyed chatting him up because he was fun to talk with. He had a hardened-experience sort of way about him ... but nicely tempered by an easy-going, mellow enthusiasm. While most of my buddies were jovial, raucous out-of-control kids with an unbridled lust for all things climbing, Jack, about seven years our senior, had a more mature bearing: much like that of a well-tempered educator and a seasoned warrior rolled into one package. At one point he worked with autistic kids (which may explain the educator part) ... Talking with him in that casual bouldering setting felt really communal; already the experienced alpinist, he was perfectly willing to take us kids seriously and grant an even playing field in conversation. He brought something of himself forward quite easily. There was a refreshing and inclusive feeling about those little chats we shared and those are my early impressions of Jack.
Here in Boulder I'd find him sometimes at Neptune's, other times at the health club/gym which we both belonged to and it was fun to hear about his continued exploits; some big Alpine face in Alaska with Jack Tackle, a steady career guiding ice, a passion for writing and so forth. This was a member of our tribe with real staying power who, regardless of the frayed physicality we all endure, had found his way and sustained the elusive path of the career climber. Jack was a guiding light in that sense and somebody to root for as most of us wobbled into middle-age.
A couple years ago at our gym I asked him how things were going, asked him, "How is Pam doing?". He paused, took note, and I felt this warmth and gratitude glowing from deep within the man. He thanked me for asking about you Pam and not just in a casual or passing way; but with a genuine bearing and a sincerity that let me know your relationship together was absolutely the most important thing in his life.
We'll miss you Jack. We are thinking of you Pam.
-Roy
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unimog
climber
windy corner in the west
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Jan 18, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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Pam thinking about you up here in the north as you know he was a gem of a person that will be sorrily missed by all.
sasha
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jan 18, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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Pam... you are one of the most beautiful and strongest woman I have ever been around. We love you.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jan 18, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
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Once in a rare while you read about someone who brought such dignity to his climbing as to make it an admirable life. On top of real skills and experience, these rare types usually seem to do that in the way they buoy people around them. There are the usual narcissistic high achievers, and then the rare climbing doers whose generous spirit seems to open a path in front of them. Just an impression from reading this thread. Condolences to family and friends of Jack Roberts.
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Clyde
Mountain climber
Boulder
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Jan 19, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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Part of a Jack post here on the Taco. C'mon folks, more stories and photos!
"One of the ways we had managed to keep the costs of the trip down was by getting a deal on food. This was with S & R food distributors in Los Angeles. They sold us all we wanted at wholesale. One of the major food groups we had at the end of the trip was canned beans. Like LOTS and LOTS of canned beans. We had had an long period of bad weather before our Mt. Lewis attempt and that kept us tent-bound for an entire week. Afterwards we hiked over the col and began our climb. Both of us being dehydrated and filled with beans but not much else. I established the hanging belay for the first pitch just above the glacier on the rock and you began leading the first pitch. After about 80 feet you got major lower intestine pains and had to drop your pants and take a dump which, because I was directly below you, landed completely ON me. There was nothing I could do to get out of the way......Not a great start to the climb. The rest of the time on Lewis was uneventful. "
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jan 19, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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so sorry that this happened. really disturbing to lose a great climber who is known for always coming back. total fukin bummer. steve
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 19, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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no stories...
but here are some references
Yosemite Valley FAs
October Country 1971 Darwin Alonso, Jack Roberts
Milk Dud 1971 Jack Roberts
Pulpit Pooper 1972 Jim Orey, Jack Roberts
Revenge of the Nerds 1988 Dave Yerian, Jack Roberts
Mountain
letter Is Dawn Wall Valid? 27-45, 38-10, 50-12, 53-14, 58-16, 63-12, 133-11
Climbing
"Fakin' It," Mt. Lewis, AK, Feature (39) 16
"Far From the Madding Crowd," Mount Huntington, AK, Feature (51) 8
"Reflections in a Golden Stream--The Second Ascent of the Cosmos," El Capitan, Yosemite, Feature (41) 14
Hot Flashes (162) 45
American Alpine Journal
1973: 419, 1974: 145, 146, 147, 1976: 445, 447, 1979: 70-80, 185-86, 1981: 17, 1996: 287, 361, 1997: 80-90, 367, 2002: 82-83, 391
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1981/01_kandiko_denali_aaj1981.pdf
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Gilroy
Social climber
Boulderado
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Jan 19, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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Stood outside my office at McGuckin Hardware and chatted with Jack at length about how to rig a better point to clip his tools to his harness clippers just two weeks ago. First time I'd met him, though I'd read most of those AAJ entries Ed listed upthread and wondered for decades who this man might be and could I ever be in the same world as Jack.
We chatted on for 20 minutes about thermometers and other bits of gear and climbing. I never thought it might be my last chance. We never do, but it was good. Condolences to Pam and all his myriad friends and aquaintances. Goodbye to a man of substance, persistence and imagination.
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MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Jan 19, 2012 - 02:09am PT
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In an interview posted somewhere higher, Jack listed his FA of the southwest face of Denali as his proudest achievement.
With good reason...at the time he and Simon McCartney climbed it (1980), it was not only by far the hardest route that had been done on the mountain to date, it was years ahead of its time. Over 30 years later it remains unrepeated,although Canadians Ian Welsted and Chris Brazeau, in avoiding the spindrifting upper corner of the Denali Diamond may have finished on this line.
Here's some shots of it. The thing I find most astonishing, and which I had to clarify with Jack himself, is that their line through the rock wall (which is almost 4000 feet tall by the way, with another 4000 feet of steep snow and ice above that) did not take the more obvious line of least resistance to the right (which is the line of the 1983 Denali Diamond route, another testpiece).
Standing at the base of a completely unclimbed wall, I would imagine most climbers would have taken the exceedingly obvious ice ramps but Jack and Simon went straight up the steep rock to the left instead. They were evidently not looking for the easiest way up! Proud.
An authentic and enduring legacy will lie not nearly so much in long faded footsteps on walls such as these, but in the depth and outreaching effect of the relationships forged in one's life. It's clear from the quality and quantity of the memories being posted here, and from my own too-brief encounters with the man, that Jack Roberts went out of here a true winner. Cheers, Jack.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 19, 2012 - 10:07am PT
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Small snippets & interactions with Jack:
Right about 1977 or 78, Jeff Sewell, John Frericks and I were bouldering out at Stony when John fell to the ground on his arm and fractured something. Jack threw us all in his skimpy yellow Datsun B210 and off we went to the local clinic. As it turns out, the attending nurse was Tony Yaniro's mom. She more or less knew what Tony was up to but amongst the three of us still standing, glances were exchanged and reports toned down, calibrated if you will, in terms of the typical teenager’s antics out there on the stone.
Somewhere in the 90s I asked Jack how his climbing was going, to which he demurred, "I have a thin veil of soft tissue health between me and not climbing at all." … "Just not that talented a rock climber anyhow, never have been, I guess". I left that last bit alone and thought maybe he was referring to the effects of his missing toes or, given his standard in the mountains I figured he was probably making some reference to his equivalency on rock, like perhaps he wasn't doing 5.12 back when Tobin Sorensen was hitting it. If you look at Brass Nut’s photos up thread, you can deduce he was just … uh, just a ho-hum average rock climber at the time of my question.
Jack was a designer/sponsored climber for Osprey. He once came to my sewing shop outside of Eldorado Springs looking for some custom reworks to one of their packs: namely vertical ice ax tubes and waist belt gear loops. I made some, um, "executive decisions” concerning the placement and design of said items and pretty much screwed the pooch all the way around. He paid me anyway, but that was the last time he came to my shop!
After that, he took a turn in his choice of personal tailor:
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jan 19, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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did'nt get the chance to meet jack but he was one of the first to comment on the Stoney thread.
sorry to hear about his accident.
RIP Jack
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running on MT
Mountain climber
Winthrop, WA
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Jan 19, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
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I'm feeling awfully gut shot this week. I just got the word of Jack's passing after Peter Minksy's memorial on Sunday.
I grew up climbing with Jack during the old Stoney Point days.
Jack was the gent that I did most of my hard aid work in the Valley. He had 2nd ascents of Tangerine Trip, Mescalito, the Shield, Zodiac, Tis-sa-ack and Cosmos. I left the Valley for Peru in '80, and he headed north to the North Cascades, Canada, and Alaska. We reunited to spend the fall and winter season of 83-84 climbing in the Solo Khumbu, and the Annapurna ranges. He went on to write Colorado Ice in 2005, and was a great friend. Between him and John Bachar who I climbed with since '71, I felt like I was one of the luckiest guys in Valley, and the world.
Now they are both gone, and I feel lost. We never know when our last meeting with our friends will be.
My deepest condolences to Pam, Jack's family, and all his friends. I'll say a puja for all at sunset in remembrance of his shining light.
I wish Jack all the best on his new Adventure in the Next Realm, and I'll look for the sparkle in his eye when I cross the final bergshrund.
Peace of Mind, Body and Soul to All.
Marcus Taylor
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Jan 19, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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[photoid=234218]
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jan 19, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
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Condolences to all his family and friends
Jack was already a southern cal legend when I started climbing in the late seventies and we would run into him at Stoney Point and JT. Was there for the “you’re a hard man Jack” gobbie, along with the goobie, Reinhart Karl was introducing some of us to the Munter hitch and to prove how great it was, if you fell off or wanted to lower off the top, Reinhart would ask you how many “meters” you wanted and then drop you free fall that distance before the belay caught. Reinhart unfortunately died later in the Himalayas.
Many years later I ran into Jack again at the Kahiltna base while waiting to fly out of the Alaska range. He and his partner has just had to bail off the Moonflower because the weather was too hot and water was running down the route in places. He had a fire inside and was chomping at the bit, to get on another climb before he had to head back to Colorado.
One of his many great Alaska climbs was the Timeless Face route on the North Face of Mt. Huntington, which he climbed in 1978. This summer I had a camp on the West Fork of the Ruth across the north face. Scary and beautiful for a putz like me just to look at.
RIP
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Hellie
climber
Oceanside
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Jan 19, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
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I met Jack in 1982. I have shed many tears since I heard the news, and a huge flood of memories came back. He taught me to climb, and brought to me nature, the mountains and many adventures - Santa Monica, the Sierras, Baja, Joshua Tree, Tahquitz, Canyonlands, Canada, the Northwest, Southeast Asia, England, and Boulder. The climbing, backpacking, hiking, camping, backcountry skiing, cycling, and travelling we did all became passions of mine. These are travels and adventures I will never forget and thank you Jack for opening up this world to me. My heart goes out to you Pam.
-Heather Cohen
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jan 19, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
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RIP Jack. We hadn't crossed paths since those early years, Dean spoke of above. But I remember you. I remember the twinkle in your eyes. Safe travels my friend.
TY
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jan 19, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
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JR bump...
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 19, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
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I did not ever meet him, but seems he was a very important part of the lives of so many. Sorry to read about his passing, and send thoughts for those in mourning their difficult loss.
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Clyde
Mountain climber
Boulder
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Jan 20, 2012 - 12:25am PT
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Random memories:
I met Jack the first day or two that he moved to Boulder in the early 80s. It was a nice, midweek afternoon and I was in Boulder Canyon soloing up and down the ice. Jack showed up with the same intentions and we soon were playing around together. Ended up following him up the one runnel I had avoided before. When I heard he had just arrived in town and needed a place to stay, I mentioned my friends Cub, Mary Kay, and Jane needed a housemate. Of course, one of Jane's best friends is Pam so one thing led to another....
Heading in to All Mixed Up with Jack and Catherine Freer. A typical park day--cold, snowy, windy--as we hiked in and I had a bad feeling about some slopes we had to cross. None of us had shovels, beacons or any of that. We talked it over and decided to head back before even getting to the climb. Neither of them gave me grief, even though they were vastly more experienced than me... vibes matter. So sad to lose Catherine a couple years later; awesome woman.
After Jack and I had climbed the Ames Ice Hose, I pulled a gumby and traumatically dislocated my shoulder on the descent. Long hours of pain as we self evaced to the clinic in Telluride followed by a roadside bivy since we were too cheap for a hotel. Long rambling drug-induced conversation on the way home while I'm bumming we had to cut the trip short.
The first (or second? or third?) Ouray Ice Fest, Jack is with me and a few others as I'm driving my truck down Camp Bird Road. It was storming and I come up over a crest in the road and there's a cop car with it's flashing lights on half way down the hill. I touched my brakes ever so lightly and the truck starts sliding...all I can do is steer towards the ditch...front wheel grabs...we spin around in slow motion and the truck rolls onto the side and keeps sliding downhill, backwards. Turned out the cop was there because a couple other cars had gone off the road already; he saw the whole thing and wrote up I did everything possible to prevent the accident. Another long ride home, in a beat up truck, but we were all okay.
More recently, my wife, Cindy, has had a burning desire to climb Ham and Eggs on Moose's Tooth for years. I couldn't do it with her for a variety of reasons. But Jack was one person who I could totally trust to take her there and bring her back safely. They had a great trip, even though the conditions didn't cooperate, got high on the route and spent 5 days on the glacier with nobody else around.
One of the best memories was Pam's 50th birthday not long ago. Jack managed to pull off a total surprise with around forty of her close friends having a great celebration in a nearby park. She was truly blown away and we all had a blast. This spring would have been his 60th and you know we were going to go big!
The planning for the memorial is well under way. It's going to be a great party!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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Jack and I were at a slide show at Neptune's years ago given by, I think, Klev Schoening who at the time was a rep for Moonstone. At the end of the slide show Klev had a trivia question to win a free Moonstone sleeping bag. So, Klev asks "what is the only 8000m peak that was first ascended by Americans?" Simultaneously, Jack and I yell out "Hidden Peak". Since it was basically a tie, Klev asks if we can name the two American climbers who did the first ascent. I named Andy Kaufmann and someone else. Jack couldn't come up with any names. I had one of the two correct and got the bag.
I have never slept a night in that bag. I think it is time to donate it to the next ASCA fundraiser in Jack's honor.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jan 20, 2012 - 10:14am PT
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Just read again Tobin's story of the first winter ascent, with Jack, of the Grand Central Couloir on Mt. Kitchner, Canadian Rockies, in 1978. What a tale: 35 degrees below zero, their plans to climb in single push--without bivy gear-- foiled by failed headlamps, running in place through a long night on a hacked stance because they dare not sleep, literally crying together from the pain and the annihilating cold.
This is the sort of place where Jack thrived.
I met Jack at Tahquitz in the early 70's and we killed time together in Joshua Tree and Camp 4. In 1977, a number of Yosemite climbers made it to Chamonix. I have fond memories of a fun afternoon with Jack watching the Tour de France roll through town.
We climbed the North Face of Les Droites that summer on our second attempt, after a first attempt where we retreated in a storm.
After Chamonix, we met up again at "Bigil," legendary North Wales home of Al Harris, base camp for visiting Yanks, and notorious for debauchery of all kinds.
Jack returned to Chamonix regularly over the years and I was more than a bit envious when I would run into him at the supermarket in south Boulder and he would tell me about his latest visit.
Callie gets it exactly right: Jack had a twinkle in his eye and a Mona Lisa smile that convinced you that he was really enjoying talking to you. I always laughed when I got together with Jack, whether prompting each other's stories from the old days, or hearing of Jack's latest climbing or skiing adventure.
What can you say about Pam? Jack was a lucky man to marry her, a beauty with a spirit to match. Gerry and I will always remember their wedding on Pearl Street, soon after they moved to Boulder.
I have known Jack for almost 40 years and I was always impressed that he loved climbing so much that he never let up. At age 59, he was on the lead on one of the great ice climbs of Colorado and this time the tools didn't stick. We are all renting our time here and one tends to think that the ultimate goal is a longer lease. For a person who defines himself as a climber, though, while an end like this is shocking and tragic, in the back of the mind one cannot repress the thought, "not a bad way to go."
Jack, you are missed greatly by us and your many friends. Pam, we love you and we're thinking of you.
Rick Accomazzo
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Rit
Social climber
Washington DC
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Jan 20, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
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All -
I registered on SuperTopo simply to offer thanks on behalf of our family (I'm Jack's wife's Pam's brother) for everything that everyone has shared and said here, and for photos and memories that have helped to take us to the places Jack experienced. I'm not even a 'social climber'. I'm a valley person and a sea kayaker, but I have enjoyed Jack and Pam's stories and photos and notes from the vertical parts of the world that have run from Eldorado Canyon to the Fitzroys to the Karakoram. I admired Jack. He lived his passion, he was generous with his gifts and his spirit with others. Climbing for him was about challenge and achievement, yes. But it was also about joy and gratitude - two virtues that work whether one is hanging from a wall, or walking on your own two feet from the Metro to the office. A couple of times he had invited me to get out on rock, no doubt to his considerable amusement, but he was always gracious, patient, and encouraging. Relatively speaking, my own travels, solo or with my wife, have been hopelessly sedentary by the standards of this fellowship, but with Jack all that was required to launch a memorable evening of conversation was simple curiosity about the world - whether on the x or the y coordinate. Your memories shared here mean more to my sister, to Jack's sister and to the rest of us who loved him from ground level mean more than we can describe. I've posted my tribute to him that I put on Facebook here to share with you - as is only proper, since I plagiarized from "JohnHemlock" a statement that was so vintage Jack. Blessings. Richard Ranger
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Jan 20, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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Jim Cameron, Greg's older brother, and myself, wound swamis at the base of Henley Quits, above Camp Four, when we spied Jack coming up the talus in the humid summer shade.
He seemed a little nervous to ask if he could join us, but we were fully stoked to have him since his resume, even at that time, was already lore to we Poway Climbers.
The Poway Climbers and the Genie Buffers, as we called them, often met at Tahquitz, reveled in our freedoms and bantered and sparred, on and on, as you might expect. I can remember the billowing of great expectations one night especially, the night we all crammed in their single wall tent and there was the flickering lighter and the passing of the spherical smoking stone and the Buffer's told us of Jack's early exploits on The Big Walls.
It was the first time I had used tape. I wrapped single bands of it across the nasty bloody divots above both forefinger knuckles and took off. Representing Poway was the highest calling and so I charged upward speedily and placed only a single nut below the crux, a steep off-sized hand crack. I imagined I was putting on an heroic exhibition, when the tape quickly rolled off my hand and I simultaneously dropped twenty feet or so.
I lowered and threw a childish fit, jumping up and down and decrying every injustice and dirty trick of the universe, and even Richard Nixon, and bitterly cussed out my tape. Nevertheless I yanked the tape, pulled the rope and fired it the second go.
But Jack was having an even worse day and could not overcome the blood, and oily sweat which now basted the crack, and lowered off. He sat quiet on the broken rocks in his torn and grubby clothes, breathing heavily.
Other's have mentioned the light in Jack's eyes and his great smile. Here it had dimmed, and I could see even more. There was no fit, no drama, no anger, no war. There was some mighty soul I could not comprehend.
That was the only summer I spent in the Valley and I lost contact info with Jack and did not see him again for five years. It was on my wedding day, when he traveled hours and showed up utterly by surprise, but slipped out and left quietly during the reception. I never saw him again.
Love, condolences, and and tears shed for Pam and to Jack's family and to the Santa Monica climbers and to each friend who brought purpose and meaning into Jack's incredible journey.
G. Bruce Adams
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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Rick,
you and Jack got to witness something special when you watched the 1977 Tour de France. It was Eddy Merckx's, widely regarded as the best bike racer ever, last Tour de France. The photo of Jack watching a rider in the blue Fiat jersey being interviewed is great. The rider is Eddy Merckx, but you probably already knew that.
That's living life to the fullest, something Jack always did!
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jan 20, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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As we all know Jack was special...the real deal when it came to climbing and even more so as a friend. I going to miss him dearly as our friendship wasn't based on climbing but a mutual respect and love. I'll miss our talks about traveling, politics, our wives, food and climbing. He was an exceptional friend with a heart as big as his climbing resume.
It is very hard to talk about Jack without talking about Pam...That is way I knew him/them. Two people but really almost one. They clicked and anyone who spend any time with them saw the spark in both their eyes when they looked at each other.
Here is a picture of Jack climbing near Taos a few years ago on one of his visit to the area. Always a kind word and always a pleasure to be around.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
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I am really sad to hear of Jack's death.
I didn't know him well but did climb with him on an obscure FA at Josh once. It was he, Matt Cox, Tobin Sorenson and I.
When Rick Lynsky and I climbed the Mushroom in '88 we ran into Jack. We were hauling our fairly massive load up the fixed ropes to Mammoth after climbing the first 1/3 and he came rapping down. We were really struggling with the bags and Jack offered to help. He hung out and betwen the 3 of us the bags came right on up. We thanked him and he continued on down, he was obviously glad to help.
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who am i this time?
climber
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Jan 20, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
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knew Jack back when he was a struggling climber like the rest of us. Haven't seen him for close to 40 years. We probably climbed together but I couldn't now say what. Nothing big certainly. I remember him for heart. He put body and soul into his climbing; his tenaciousness when most would just say "give it up" surely fueled his obvious subsequent success. But thinking back about Jack, I remember best what was less obvious to me then. He had heart, but in the more important way that exuded warmth and gentleness--Jack was a guy who cared. He cared for climbing, obviously, but he cared for those around him. He never seemed mean-spirited or harsh. I am saddened for his premature death and wish his wife and family well. Judging by the posts, Jack aged well. Wish I had kept up with him. RIP
G Meyers
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 20, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
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hey there, say, rit....
god bless you and your family at this very hard sad time...
thanks for stepping in to share, it means a lot to his buddies here...
prayers for you all...
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KevinC
Ice climber
Colorado
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
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I first met Jack years ago when introduced by a mutual friend. We would usually run into each other a few times every year at a slideshow , gear swap, or wandering around RMNP looking for ice and, though I never was and never will be half the climber he was, he would always remember my name and listen with interest to what I had to say about the climbing I'd been doing. Finally, after years of being among the first every year to go looking for ice and exchanging information about finds and rumors, we got out together to climb Blind Assumption on Pikes Peak - a route that neither he (surprisingly) nor I had done before. Jack cruised the mixed crux with such ease that I was fooled into trying it this past season and ended up backing off due to lack of pro. He had an amazingly cool head for run-out climbing. He was also gracious, encouraging and cool when I struggled with some awkward moves during my leads on the route.
On the drive to and from the climb, we had some great discussions about climbing and climbers we both knew, about our plans for the future, and about our respective spouses. Jack always lit up when he talked about Pam, their lives and travels together.
The next year, out of the blue, Jack contacted me about training with him during the early ice season. I was flabbergasted that a legend like Jack would contact someone of my modest accomplishments to partner and train, but that seems to be how Jack was; as long as he was out climbing with a member of the tribe, he was a happy guy. We spent a day dry-tooling in Vail (from which I sadly only have a few pics of him as a small dot high on the rock) and a few days in the rock gym, but unfortunately after that, life, schedules and other issues intervened and we didn't get to climb together again. Still, every time since when we'd meet, he had the same heartfelt and easy smile and twinkle in his eye. So glad I got to see him and share a few words one more time only a few days before the accident.
RIP Jack, you were one of the good ones; you left us too soon. Wherever you are, may you have endless blue ice and alpine vistas. Heartfelt condolences to Pam; though we haven't met, you two obviously had a deep and special relationship.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 21, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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Just back from a 4 day trip and saw how this thread has gone, and thought I would bump it back up because it is the best example of what makes me proud of the SuperTopo community.
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jan 22, 2012 - 01:20am PT
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BUMP.......
Never forget.........
Never........
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jan 22, 2012 - 09:26am PT
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Regarding Jack's El Cap routes, here are a couple of news items from Mountain Magazine, which was, for climbers, the chronicle of record in the 1970's.
September 1974:"On El Capitan, two of the recent routes pioneered by Charlie Porter, The Shield and The Zodiac, both received second ascents by Jack Roberts and Hugh Burton. The pair took 4 1/2 days to climb the Shield and they found that Porter's notorious rurp pitches could be climbed by using knifeblades in many of the placements. The Zodiac, which turned out to be easier than expected, was climbed in five days during poor weather."
These routes had the reputation of being both hard and dangerous in the early seventies, thus the tone of myths being deflated a bit.
January 1977:"Interesting repeats on El Capitan include ...Jack Roberts and Rob Muir's seven day ascent of Cosmos. "
Anyone who has photos should post them to give Jack's family an idea of these spectacular climbs.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jan 22, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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This seems to be the only photo that I have of Cosmos... I think that Jack was carrying the camera. This is Jack's photo taken fairly low on the route, one pitch below the supposed crux.
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Dougald
climber
CO
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Jan 22, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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Friends and family of Jack Roberts are invited to a memorial celebration starting at 5 pm on Sunday, January 29, at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, Colorado. Please RSVP at jackrobertsclimbing.com if you plan to attend.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 22, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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And aren't Hawaiian shirts the requested attire? That's the word we got.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
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I'm so sorry when anyone of our own passes onto the other side.
I didn't know JR but I understand what he meant to everyone that did know him and to the climbing community .
It's not the end, it's a new beginning.
I just saw the movie Hereafter. Very powerful movie.
"Roger Ebert, however, gave the film four stars (out of four), calling it a film that "considers the idea of an afterlife with tenderness, beauty and a gentle tact. I was surprised to find it enthralling."
AFTERLIFE EVIDENCE
Lawyer Victor Zammit on the scientific proof for Life after Death
http://www.victorzammit.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daRdTFqZluY&feature=player_embedded#!
I'm interested in the scientific evidence that this life isn't all there is. The movie suggests such a book based on the scientific evidence. Does anyone know if there is such a book that has been written?
The lawyer's web site is selling one. Are there others that are really good and well researched?
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 23, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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Pam here. Just got back late last night after an emotional but great weekend in Telluride. Stopped in Montrose for a last look before the cremation....dear friends and the man who was with Jack when he died came to meet us in the parking lot so he could talk to me about what happened. Would it only be climbbers hanging in a funeral home parking lot, passing around a bottle of tequila, laughing and crying? Jon (his partner) was a hero.....he did everything that could possibly be done, and same goes for the rescue crew. It's just that his injuries were too grave. But he was with a friend he loved, who held him to the end. A small group of us hiked up Saturday to the base of Bridalveil with flowers and more tequila. Made a memorial in the snow, laughed and cried together.
Again, I am blessed to have been deeply loved by Jack...we had a fabulous life together. It means so much to read all these posts by you all......I look forward to seeing many of you at his memorial.
much love to all,
pam
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 23, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
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We only met at Jeff's birthday party, but my heart goes out to you.
Jack was in my pantheon.
I don't hold with the cliche about dying doing what you love. Jack should have enjoyed much more life with you, but sometimes we must play the cards we are dealt, win or lose.
But know that Jack lives on in the hearts of many here, both his warmth and his deeds, and you will always find support here.
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JohnHemlock
Mountain climber
CO
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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Once it was getting dark and there was a raging snowstorm outside, which was fine since there was plenty of wine and a warm fire. Suddenly we noticed Jack was gone, and he remained so for quite some time. I stuck my head out the door of the hut and looked around but couldn't see 3 feet. Finally, I put my boots and coat on and went outside, perplexed.
Suddenly, a sherbet-colored apparition appeared out of nowhere. It was Jack, he had decided to go for a walk for an hour in his ski boots for some fresh air. Because postholing a couple miles in a whiteout at dusk for an extra workout after a full day of skinning and skiing is just what you do when you are Jack, I guess. . .
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 25, 2012 - 12:31am PT
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A Broken Oath
Startled back to Earth from the weightless ascending
I am reminded by your surprising end,
That not a week before we greeted each other
As if brothers long apart, together.
And making an oath to voyage above the valley
Sealed with a handshake and a farewell,
We could not know of the implacable forces
That would prevent its fulfillment forever.
What wonder at our age grown past the fears of youth
To soar freely in the crystalline heights
Always mindful of our artifice's limits
Anciently told in Icarus' fall.
Who knew those limits better from practice than you?
In seeming league with gravity itself.
Perhaps we knew that time itself might persevere
Its prior claims to our hopeful planning
But that would not prevent our thought that day to meet,
soon perhaps, and steal away to the cliffs.
That oath cannot be kept, we are no longer bound
It was not your choice to depart that day,
You and my other brothers their time here gone too
As will be mine someday as for all lives,
To have known you in life for the briefest moment
Brought the joy of community to me
The sorrow of your death reminds that our lives
Should strive to find happiness and meaning
Before that day when we too must break an oath made
Intending to keep but for our passing.
Until that time let us mistake the glinting sun
On high icy crystals, your eyes' twinkle,
As we visit those places of you adventures
Sharing your happiness in that high realm.
We will not think the oath broken on those journeys
But find its fulfillment, your memory there.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 25, 2012 - 06:23am PT
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hey there say, dear pam... thanks for sharing this last note... and the time of memories you just went through...
god bless so very much, as the memorial time nears...
may the good lord keep you strong that day, and may
new speical memories come your way, as well, to uphold
you through the years....
can't be there, but if i was, i'd sure give you a hug
and a another god blesss...
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Bequita
climber
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Jan 25, 2012 - 09:53am PT
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We just established a memorial account for those wishing to contribute in Jack’s memory. This is not a tax-deductible account, but will help Pam offset some of the lost income after Jack’s passing.
Contributions can be made by check payable to “John Roberts Memorial Fund” and sent to Elevations Credit Union, PO Box 9004, Boulder, CO 80310-9004, or by wire transfer to:
Elevations Credit Union
Boulder, Colorado 80301
Acct #1000000264063
ABA/Routing # 307074580
Attn: John Roberts Memorial Fund
130 S. 33rd Street, Boulder CO 80305
Thank you all for your love and support of Pam, in remembrance of our dear friend Jack.
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drlin
Trad climber
planet earth
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Jan 25, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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I will miss the memorial at the AAC in Golden this Sunday, but it is comforting to read posts from Jack's family of climbing friends. Thanks to John for the credit tribute of his impressive career. Little known was his tenure during one summer of teaching at Phillips Academy, the prestigious private school near Boston. He was every bit as dedicated and masterful in that venue as well. A true master of many trades, even though he didn't know it. And like all great spirits, he lives on in our hearts and minds as an example to follow.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 25, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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Ah yes, Phillips Academy! Rappelling off the Bell Tower, and the epic climbing at Den Rocks! :-) Plus, he taught Psychology and Sociology. A great experience, and tons of fun!
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yfever
Big Wall climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 25, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
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Sad at Jack passing but celebrating his life!!! I spent time climbing with Jack during the past few years revisiting old classic routes in RMNP and reviewing life, lessons and some climbing stories. Besides the obvious "knowing" that he was a great alpinist and rock wizard more importantly his "humaness" is what always struck me the most deeply about Jack.
Cheers my good friend....Patrick
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Dougald
climber
CO
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Jan 26, 2012 - 09:41am PT
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Bump for three notes about Jack's memorial on Sunday:
• This event will run from 5 pm to about 9 pm. Light food and beer will be available. We encourage people to make an evening of it.
• Hawaiian shirts are indeed encouraged.
• Reminder of the memorial fund set up this week. This is not a tax-deductible account, but will help Pam offset some of the lost income after Jack’s passing.
Contributions can be made by check payable to “John Roberts Memorial Fund” and sent to Elevations Credit Union, PO Box 9004, Boulder, CO 80310-9004, or by wire transfer to:
Elevations Credit Union
Boulder, Colorado 80301
Acct #1000000264063
ABA/Routing # 307074580
Attn: John Roberts Memorial Fund
130 S. 33rd Street, Boulder CO 80305
Thank you all for your love and support of Pam, in remembrance of our dear friend Jack.
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Gilberto
Social climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jan 26, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
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Jack was a friend. I just found out about his departure, share several stories with other friends. They all have happy memories about Jack.
Pam. We are thinking of you.
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Jim Pettigrew
Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
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Jan 26, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
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I'm truly saddened to hear of this! My heart goes out to Jack's wife and friends.
I met Jack in camp IV one spring day, sometime in the mid seventies! He was hanging out with a German fellow. Jack was nursing some rope burns and couldn't lead so convinced me that it was a demonstration of goodwill to take him and this fellow climbing! So we did Lunatic Fringe, Reed's Triple Direct, and the Stoned Groove that afternoon! I haven't seen Jack since late in seventies our paths just didn't cross much. We did the Tuolumne thing and shared a few beers here and there. Haven't thought much about him lately but will surely miss him now!
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Clyde
Mountain climber
Boulder
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Jan 27, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
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Last Call!
Still accepting photos of Jack for his memorial service. If you have any good images, please email them to me by tomorrow night (1/28/12). Especially looking for the old shots on the gnar, the embarrassing shots, the raw ragged shots. The party is Sunday evening. The higher the resolution the better but I'll take what you got.
Clyde
PS and when it's my turn...none of the above ;-)
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 28, 2012 - 10:15am PT
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No photos of Jack, but am thinking of him and Pam this morning.
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steve shea
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2012 - 11:42am PT
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Pam, my thoughts are with you. Peace. I do not know you but we spoke on the phone. I'm the guy who called for Jack but you answered. Jack was out on a bike ride. I briefly explained who I was but asked you not to tell Jack I called as I wanted to surprise him. I said I would call back. I never made the call. I was stunned when I heard the news of Jack's death and feel bad about the first somewhat terse, post. A mutual friend and climbing partner, Larry Bruce sent the news. Jack was the kind of partner you wanted to go on the hill with. A complete alpinist exuding strength, character and humility. The kind person you know would be there when the going got tough. As it turned out I got to see his character first hand on a major epic in the Massif du Mt Blanc. I remember getting back to town and the first people we see are Rick and Tobin who looked at us like we were ghosts; they thought we had been lost to the storm. I think 14 perished in the massif. We continued up to the Place de L'eglise and found our own obituary notices on the wall. Jack stoically and with humor said "not yet, not yet" and took the paper down. We made plans to climb in the future, we had been through the final exam and knew we could rely on each other. We were young and our paths took us on our journeys. I never saw or talked to Jack again. Then I discovered ST not long ago and tried to get in touch resulting in that phone call last spring. Once again the lesson, tell your friends you love them before it is too late. Pam I cannot be there tomorrow in person, but spiritually as in a celestial burial, I can take comfort and smile having known and climbed with Jack. All the best to you in this difficult time. Steve
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jan 28, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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JR having fun on OZ...
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Bequita
climber
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Jan 28, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
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Twinkle twinkle in your eyes,
Your twinkle now lights up the night skies...
I miss you Jack but know you are still with us
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drlin
Trad climber
planet earth
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Jan 29, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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I walked the beach at sunrise this morning, in tribute to Jack's spirit, to my family of friends who will be gathered today in Denver, and to Pam, my longtime bud. I tried to upload one of the photos but it wouldn't cooperate, so let this one stand in its stead... taken at Playa Guiones in CR. May Jack be floating above us, around us, and within us all today.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 29, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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Sad.
God bless you, Jack.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 29, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
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Steve, thanks for your nice post. I ended up telling him of your phone call just recently....I can only hold a secret for so long. :-) He was pleased you had called, and was looking forward to catching up with you at some point.
Ima, that's a beautiful shot.......I will hold it in my heart this afternoon at Jack's memorial. He may have been a hard man, but he sure loved the beach! :-)
much love,
pam
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 29, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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Pam, and Jack's family and friends, I hope the party/memorial tonight goes well. It will be a bittersweet occasion, as so many events in our lives are, but an important one. Even the thoughts of those of us who didn't know Jack are with you.
And if you take a few photos of Clyde, especially "the embarrassing shots, the raw ragged shots", that would be OK too.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 30, 2012 - 10:18am PT
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All..........Jack's memorial last night was amazing. Clyde (and Cindy) and Dave Vaughn did a tremendous job with pictures, music, and video. Our own Bob D. gave a moving tribute. Jack would have loved it, start to finish. I only wish I could have spent more time with so many wonderful friends!
much love,
pam
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jan 30, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
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What a beautiful night last night with all the wonderful people that were there to celebrate Jack's life. It was a very moving experience to see so many old friends and honor Jack and the impact he had on so people and their lives.
The amount of love in that room was amazing...seems like it was bouncing off the walls. Jack was a very special man and so glad that he had you (Pam) and your love all these years.
Thanks Pam for the honor of letting me speak about my friend who I admirer deeply and loved. I'm really going to miss his beautiful smile.
Pam just remember that we are here for you anytime you need us and that we have some very good times to spend together in the future. Love you Pam and the incredible strength and dignity that you have shown in this very difficult time is just amazing. Our home in Taos is always open for you.
Bob
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 30, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Jack's memorial was beautiful and filled with such poignant love. So much love and respect for such a wonderful man.
Pam, I don't know how you had the strength to stand up in front of such a gathering and keep it together with such remarkable grace. Particularly as the gathered friends were busy dehydrating from the eyes. Bob, I can't begin to adequately explain to you the deep impact your words had on me personally. It was a pleasure to finally meet your beautiful wife of over 40 years. You are a beautiful human being. To John my heart pours out. Your words were a balm.
To everyone who was not there if you notice that the planet Earth is experiencing an eccentric wobble in it's celestial spin please understand that the world experienced a temporary overlord of climbing superstars and heavyweights gathered in Golden last night. That incredible gathering was a testament to the swath that Jack cut through the lives of so many. A swath almost as wide as his smile and almost as brilliant as his twinkling eyes. RIP
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 30, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
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There aren't really words to describe how awesome it was.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jan 30, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
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Jack was a very special person, as is Pam. He was a very good friend and one I miss dearly. Last night's celebration was truly that, a celebration between friends, some who hadn't seen each other for years. Bob's words were heart-felt and awesome. As Philo said, there was definitely a "wobble" going on last night as there were a ton of people sharing stories, laughter, and tears ....
We love you Pam - we'll talk more soon.
Paul
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PLC
climber
Astoria OR
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Jan 30, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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Pam.. I know we havn't met. You are in my thoughts and i am so sorry for your loss.I am a old friend of Jack from Santa Monica CA. Starting in the 6th grade thru 12th and on.We hung out alot. We were members of the Samohi rock climbers in school.Did some climbing out at Chatsworth in the SF valley.We talked of climbing the tall mts.around the world.I had to give up climbing in 1972 after a bad bike wreck.More of a backpacker after that.Would see Jack at Westridge and drinding at the Mucky Duck Pub ,He did like Bass ale. Jack came to my wedding in 1975 and lost contact with him as i was in the USCG and moved around alot.Saw him last in1982 or 85. Would think of Jack when watching climbing or trecking shows.He will be remembered.I will raise a glass to him. There is an old irish song that fits "The Parting glass" Best wishes...Pat Craig
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JohnHemlock
Mountain climber
CO
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Jan 30, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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Great memorial. All the speakers and the slides and video were just perfect.
We played around in RMNP all day, drank a quick beer at Ed's Cantina, then drove like madmen for Golden. I was 20 minutes late and had to change pants in the parking lot. I don't think Jack would've minded!
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 30, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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John,
It sounds like Jack was probably with you! :-)
pam
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 30, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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missing him tonight....bump.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jan 30, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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A crowd shot from the amazing tribute to Jack last night. Pam - all these people and more are thinking of you and Jack today :-)
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telluridejon
Social climber
Telluride
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Jan 30, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
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Just wanted to say thank you to everyone who was there last night, especially Pam. Thanks for letting us share in that with you. Thanks for asking me share.
And there I was thinking the wobble was just from the tequila. . .
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 31, 2012 - 12:34am PT
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I said it last night to you directly, and I'll say it again, Thank YOU Jon.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:17am PT
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This is the article I wrote for the Telluride paper, and what I read at the memorial about Jack...
http://bit.ly/yJBNBd
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:29am PT
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For those who were and were not there, BrassNuts (aka Dave Vaughan) put together a 10.3 minute video that was played at the memorial. It is video of Jack climbing, hanging out and being Jack. If you'd like a copy, we ask that you contribute to the Jack/Pam fund. Contact BrassNuts directly.
And BrassNuts video-taped the entire memorial. This includes the photo slide show put together by Clyde, the video show put together by BrassNuts, and all the speakers (including Pam's reading of the article above). He is finishing that and it will very soon be available for the same price (contributing). 100% of all $$ put toward it goes to Pam. Contact BrassNuts directly if you are interested.
It was a very moving memorial.
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One half of the daily double
Mountain climber
New York, N.Y.
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Jan 31, 2012 - 07:18pm PT
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A very moving memorial and a great tribute to Jack. Pam, your family and friends are wonderful people. Thank you for letting Erwin and I say a few words Sunday night. We will think of Jack whenever we find ourselves in, or whenever our thoughts turn to, the mountains.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 31, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
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Bob, you and Erwin were SUCH a huge part of his life!!! Like I said, he loved you both, and ALWAYS looked forward to whatever adventure you guys were going to go on, either together or separately. I"m sorry you guys won't get the chance to go to Ecuador...he was so psyched about that!
Thank you SO MUCH for talking at his memorial....you guys were totally awesome....like, oh-my-god! :-)
Please stay in touch!!!
much love forever,
pam
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JonathanH
Sport climber
Grand Forks, ND
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Could you please share how to get in touch with BrassNuts in order to obtain a copy of the video? I'm more than happy to make a donation. I'm overjoyed to learn that the event was captured. The outpouring of emotion online has been simply amazing, and I wish I could have been present.
Thank you
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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You can private message BrassNuts here on the taco or email him directly at:
davevaughan88 at Q dot com.
Please note the two letter "a"s in the last name. Most people forget the second one and the email goes nowhere. Or email me here and I'll get it to him.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Love that shot of Jack.....wish it were easier to get through this, but I know the only road is hard and rough....Pam
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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a Pam and Jack bump.
Sending Pam huge hugs of support from Telluride, seeing Jack's twinkle as I type. I wish we were on an easier road Pam - some stretches will seem smooth and some are so so bumpy.
Hang in there,
Kathy in Telluride
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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It's easy to see why Jack had that twinkle in his eye; you're a beautiful woman Pam, inside & out. Big hugs and big love to you.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Thanks Karla,
Kinda missing him right now. Haven't figured out yet how to go to bed (and stay asleep!!) without all of the memory floods. Am open to suggestions, and ambien drop-offs!
much love,
pam
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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:(
Think only time can help. And that can't be rushed. :(
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Yeah.....hard to even let his post die. Guess it's all part of the process. Big bump............
xox,
pam
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Pam...Jack lives on in your heart and the hearts of many others. He will always be a part of our lives.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Happy to see it bumped. Bump away.
The video is complete. Copies being burned right now. Lots of requests for it. We can get it to you this weekend if you like.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Hope you're doing okay, Pam.
Be well.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, hugs to you this eve, pam....
god bless....
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Hey Pam, You may not remember me, but I have such fond memories of you and Jack back in the Alpine house in late 80's. Your writing about Jack made me cry hard! I always so admired your relationship. I still have a bunch of old gear of Jack's that he was going to chuck when cleaning out the basement at 1341. I'll treasure it now... Much love, -wayne
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Just emerging from an incommunicado state in Patagonia. Such sad news. Jack was a very accomplished climber an an all around nice guy. He had a gentle aura that complimented his hard guy image. Take care Pam, my thoughts are with you.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Desert fun with Jack, more good memories...
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Look at the puppies!
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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a pair of foxes! :-)
Wayne, nice to hear from you! I remember when you got back from Europe I think, and we dealing with jet lag. I remember getting up to let Scout out very early (3-ish) in the morning. I was standing in the living room by that side door, totally naked, when I hear you coming down the stairs. I immediately jumped out the door, only to find myself now standing OUTSIDE, completely naked! :-) Anyway, I think that was you! :-)
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Pam,
It was a very fitting and moving memorial for Jack.
You are an amazing person with abundant strength that will allow you to go forward. This was clear when you spoke so eloquently at the memorial.
Rick and Gerry
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Just want to remind those of you who may not know, there are videos of Jack's memorial. The cost? Contributing to Jack's fund. (Details above). If you would like one (1 hr 25 minutes), contact me or BrassNuts. It's quite lovely.
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Conner
Mountain climber
Donnelly, Idaho
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Reading the most recent posts.... still can't believe it is really true. I can't imagine what this is like for Pam. I ache for you dear friend. I know how strong you are. I know you will be okay. I also know that this loss is unlike anything you have ever known. Sure wish I was closer. Jeff too. We want to wrap you in the arms of love and hold you tight.
I hate knowing I won't ever see Jack again in the ways I knew him. I miss his wry smile and knowing look... I think Jack loved climbing in a really profound and special way. Can't say I've ever known anyone else to love it just that way. He was profoundly satisfied in the mountains and at home with Pam. He truly had it all.
Love to you Pam. See you soon. We'll be out in CO at the end of Feb.
xo,
Connie
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Just watched the video of the whole thing that brassnuts put together....it's really great!!! I can only think that if Jack was able to see it, I bet he was totally confused. As Connie and I discussed today, I bet he was thinking, "geez, isn't this my 60th birthday party? Why is everyone so sad?? I still can't wrap my mind around this.........
love to all,
pam
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Pam, your humor reflects your strength...
Inspiring to us all...
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bldrjacsis
climber
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A Mother's View
Sitting in her rocker she looked outside to see yet another day of snow. She had dreams that night. She couldn't shake them. They were pleasant dreams of her son. He came to her and held her hand. They walked together and sat upon a boulder throwing rocks into the stream. How nice that was.
She remembered doing that with him when the family took all those camping trips. Jack and Chris would run to the streams and swim in them, Jack ever a watchful eye on his little sister. Yes he is good son. He had grown into quite the man. He was always such a sweet boy. Never any trouble, except for his birth. Twenty hours of labor and forty five stitches later he was born. No "C" sections back then, he was big too, ten pounds. Then he had the nerve to be colicky. Two years of sleepless nights and then the tonsils. He just couldn't win. She remembered when he started to walk, he seemed so clumsy, couldn't get his bearing. Took him to the doctor and said, "He's pigeoned toed, switch his shoes". So she did for three years and that straightened him out. She cried on his first day of school wondering how he would do. He was fine, he had lots of friends, but then trouble started and those bigger boys picked on him. He came home crying and his Father told him to fight back. Jack didn't understand his son. He was special, he was never a fighter. He joined the Cub Scouts. He was so happy. He made new friends and started to learn more and more about the outdoors. He was so proud when he made Eagle Scout.
She remembers all the times when Jack and Chris would play together and he would let her win. But as they grew older they played less and less together. The nerve of him joining the Rock Climbing Club when Jack told him not to. He did get a spanking that day. Jack not only got a whipping but his hair was cut as well. Serves him right for disobeying his Father. But Jack died too soon. They had plans to leave for England and never come back here. But that changed because of the children. Leaving them was not an option anymore.
Chris, thankfully, settled into a good job, but Jack was ever the dreamer and wanderer. She prayed every night that he would make it back from whatever god foresaken mountain he was on. She remembers the call from Mexico when Jack totaled out his jeep, the evictions and the time he slipped his sister magic mushrooms in her salad. She laughed at that, but then thought, "Can't he get a regular job?" She said this to him many times and he seemed to get so mad at her for saying it. It seemed like the reasonable thing to do, get a job, get married, have kids and settle down. "You won't go anywhere climbing, it's not a career, what don't you understand about that!", she told him. He did it anyway. he had a mind of his own, so stubborn. But what a gentle boy. My boy, the one that I love so much.
She remembers all the pictures and slide shows that he had shown her of the mountains that he had climbed. The pictures were so beautiful. He was so proud. "Can't you see how dangerous that is?", she said. His sister isn't any help, why doesn't she tell him. Can't she see the danger. She tells me she does, but say's you can't change him, he loves it so much. She tells me to leave him be about it. We'll see about that.
Finally he got married. He loves Pam so much you can see it in his face when he talks about her and is with her. I am jealous but understand that he is growing up. Maybe Pam can get him to stop. Maybe now he sees he has to get a regular job. He said that he loves Pam, she is his life now and that she climbs too. Oh my, but they both are so happy.
He comes to visit when he can. He calls all the time and sends flowers and chocolates on my birthday and Christmas. She misses him so much, she wishes he would live near her and she can see him more often, but then he couldn't do his climbing and that is his life. Oh how she prays for him when he climbs and her prayers were always answered. He would always come home and he told such wonderful stories.
Chris told her something the other day and she didn't understand. Something about him not coming home. Silly girl, Jack died a long time ago, of course he's not coming home. She had tears in her eyes and she said ,"Not dad, my brother."
She sits in her rocker looking outside, what a beautiful day she thinks. The sun is shinning, the birds are chirping and the flowers are blooming. Her son would say, "What great day to climb, bike ride or walk the dog" or whatever outdoorsy thing he could do. She could him see him taking the dog, Pisco or Bisco was it?, out for a run. He never had a dog when he was a boy. It wasn't allowed in the apartment, but he really seems to like them.
She had another dream last night, her son came to her , hugged her and said "Don't worry anymore, I love you Mom." She loved him too and couldn't wait to see him again.
Know that Jack's Mother has dementia and still waits for his calls
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Double D
climber
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That was beautiful Chris. I'm profoundly sorry for your family's loss.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Chris,
I had my first big meltdown last night....had a shaky day today despite making it to the gym and hiking with Pisco (or is it Bisco?:-) ) So now I"m crying again. God....I don't even know what to say about what you just wrote! I hope it helped you in some small way. I can't imagine how your mom feels, and it tears me up that I really can't call her, my mother-in-law who I love, because I'm afraid to hurt her yet again. That was beautiful, my dear sis...............I hope Jack can feel your thoughts.
much love,
pam
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Thanks for sharing that. I wish we could do something to help all of you.
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Rit
Social climber
Washington DC
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To Jack's many friends, and for Pam, my sister, this was my remembrance for Jack at his memorial in Golden a week and a half ago. Peace.
To Pam, to our families, Robertses and Rangers gathered here, to this community of friends of Pam’s and Jack’s.
I want to start by thanking Dougald for his wonderful memorial to Jack in Climbing magazine, and for your helpful reminder that as an editor of yours once said, if you don’t know where to start, start with the facts.
So I will start with some simple facts. It’s fair to acknowledge that many of you here knew Jack better than I did - whether from boyhood, or from early days at Yosemite or Joshua Tree, to climbs on routes on rock or ice from Foraker to Cerro Torre, from Chamonix to Pakistan, from bivouacs and camps and taverns from the foot of El Capitan to Bozeman to the Southern Sun. Together with Jack, you have looked to the mystery and challenge of mountains, and felt compelled to climb to places of encounter with creation that the rest of us only wonder about.
My story with Jack, and the one I share with our family, is simple. Jack loved Pam. So we loved him. And in that time he graced our lives with his warmth, his conversation, his kindnesses, and the inspiration of his spirit of inquiry and curiosity about the world. And he graced our lives with his love for my sister, and the model of a life together in which each was for the other - in the words of my faith tradition - a strength in need, a counselor in perplexity, a comfort in sorrow, and a companion in joy. And Jack, with Pam, offered the example of the pursuit of a simple and uncluttered life, built not just on the enjoyment of one’s passion, but in the preparation and training to pursue it. To possess the commitment to achieve excellence, matched with the humility and grace to be able to mentor others, and a heart to honor and maintain old friendships, and to continue to make new ones.
In Jack’s own words: “The lifestyle that has evolved around climbing has now become more important than the actual physical sensation of moving on stone or ice. More important than reaching summits is living an examined life, making every action count”.
The man we admire and so miss at this time was generous with his gifts and his spirit with others. He advanced the art of climbing, and reached to assist others to advance on their own journeys and callings through sharing the experience of making every action count - on ice, on rock, in mountains, in the world.
There is no one here who did not want to grow old with Jack, and to enjoy again his smile, his wit, his insights and his spirit over good coffee or fine whisky - or some other beverage - as always with Jack, well-considered and well chosen, just like his friendships.
A few days ago I stumbled into recollection of this quote from the chapter in J. R. R. Tolkien’s Fellowship of the Ring - the chapter called “The Shadow of the Past”. It is from the conversation between Frodo and Gandalf when Frodo learns the story of the One Ring. I think it applies to those of us gathered here, now.
“I wish it need not have happened in my time," said Frodo.
"So do I," said Gandalf, "and so do all who live to see such times. But that is not for them to decide. All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given us.”
Those of us gathered here have been blessed with more time than was given to Jack. May we choose to do with our time remaining that which would honor the memory of our friendships with Jack in way that he’d acknowledge if he were in the lead. Because in a most profound and real way, he is in the lead.
Thank you, my brother, for your love for my sister and for your place in our family. And may God bless you and keep you in that place where the morning sun never leaves the highest peaks.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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That was really beautiful Chris and it was an honor to meet you.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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to both Rit (my brother) and Chris (Jack's sister).....I have no words to express my most profound thanks and love to both of you.....
xox,
pam
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Rit- really, really beautiful.
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Outdoorvangelist
Trad climber
San Juan Capistrano, CA
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Thank you for such a wonderful homage to a great climber, inspiration and friend to so many.
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Conner
Mountain climber
Donnelly, Idaho
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Thanks for sharing it here Rit. It was beautiful and poignant to hear you share it at the memorial. jeff got a chance to hear it on the DVD we got. He was awed. Hope to see you again soon.
Warmest Regards,
Connie
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Conner
Mountain climber
Donnelly, Idaho
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Wow Chris, that was awesome. What a perspective. Jack loved his Mom and you very much. I was lucky enough to live in Idaho and see Jack en route to see you a time or two. I wish you peace and healing... I know it is a sad time. I'm glad I got to see you at Pam's and the memorial.
Sending you much love,
Connie Self
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bldrjacsis
climber
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Feb 12, 2012 - 01:01am PT
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Thank you all for the compliments. I felt my Mother needed a voice and since she cannot recall Jack's death, a blessing in some respects, I thought I would recall what she had expressed to me over the years. She loved (s) him dearly and though he never gave up his climbing, much to her dismay, she was so very proud of his accomplishments. She loved his slide shows and photos. Mom loved to travel and envied Jack his view from the top of the world. Trust me, if she could climb those peaks with him, she would have.
I would also like to thank all of Jacks friends for coming, and those that couldn't come, for the kind words of comfort and love. It was an honor to meet all of you and maybe we'll see each other again. May all of your journeys and adventures be safe and with the ones you love.
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Conrad
climber
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Feb 12, 2012 - 08:09am PT
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Jack was a steller man in all aspects. While his climbing was visionary and consistent it was his personality that was the measure of who he was. Always warm, always welcoming and quick to bounce the question back to you. "Hows it going? Any neat stuff since the last time we met?"
We climbed together at the crags, from Eldo to the annual connection at the regional ice gatherings. Though never on a big route together, we had friends once removed, some with us, others now with Jack, that spoke volumes of his ability on the big routes. He was solid on all medium and was a committed climber. The pull of the vertical was his life source and, ultimately, his final calling. He was a lifer, climbing defined who he was. He didin't have to explain or posture to people that weren't within our circle that he was a climber.
We shared an interest in pens. From fountain pens to quality pens to functional pens. He liked these instruments. In 99 during a difficult stage in my life he gave me a pen. It was a fine momento and it's in the box of pens.
My heartfelt condolences to Pam, Jack's family and all of you that were close to him.
Claudia's fine photograph from December 2011. His smile says it all. Miss you man.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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Conrad, thanks for your posting. I know you understand better than some what I am going through, what we are all going through! Sure wish I could use those lovely pens of his, though, but being left-handed, fountain pens just end up being a smear-fest for me! :-)
much love,
pam
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 14, 2012 - 01:36am PT
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hey there say, rit... thank you so very kindly for sharing these heartfelt words.... it helps us all to never forget not only a special climber, but a loving husband--the part that is not seen by all of us, in the far-outreaches of life... this is something that cherished family and friends, see, and THAT inspires others, in many ways, that make part of jack live on...
thank you for letting us that knew him, from online only, see so much more...
also:
pam:
please email me, soon, i have a question for you...
hope it is okay.... *i will also hit reply to jack's email here,
to share more...
god bless... and hugs...
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Feb 16, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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neebee..my e-mail is srfrpam@aol.com.......I feel I am riding this wave with so many of you. Jack would be so surprised really to feel all of this. Isn't it strange that we live this life of not really knowing how people feel about us, and then when we are dead, to a certain extent it is too late? For sure makes me want to try to live the rest of my life with more intention. It's just so hard to say goodbye to so much love and time....Once again to all Jack's friends, especially his older ones where you have fallen out of tough...He talked about you all SO Much over the years, I feel like I know most of you. He loved his life so much.....xox
pam
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
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A Pam and Jack bump. I am hoping Pam had her "normal" Friday night margaritas out on the town in Boulder.
I0 started a long letter to Pam earlier this week - will finish and send it soon. The first year of loss hits way too many challenging anniversaries. Hang in there Pam. Valentine's Day and the 1 month anniversary of Jack's death in one week is big hit.
Someone please post some funny Jack stories or photos!
Huge hugs of support - Kathy in Telluride.
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Bequita
climber
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:44am PT
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A more loving husband would be hard to find.... Jack making sure his beautiful wife had a water jug full of margaritas (being poured directly into her mouth) for her 50th birthday!!
Jack, we miss you dearly.
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telluridejon
Social climber
Telluride
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Feb 20, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
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I love the look of intense concentration on his face. Important job after all!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Feb 20, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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Great photo. Glad it was posted. Thanks!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
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Jack and I on top of Half Dome after RNWF - a great day!
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drlin
Trad climber
planet earth
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Apr 15, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
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OK, so it's April and I'm still going back through the long list of tributes, Pam's replies, great photos. I think it is the best way to connect, especially being so far away, with the spirit of a friend who managed to bring so many people together in his honor... and also of Pam's honor. I believe that their kind of love is rare, inspiring to know that it is possible between two people, shared like sunlight for the rest of us to marvel at. Somehow I believe that you will continue to make it shine, Pam. After all, the twinkle in Jack's eye was a reflection of you.
Love the 50th birthday shotgun marguarita. :)
Ima
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 15, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
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Today is the three month anniversary. Thinking a lot of Pam and Jack and all affected by his untimely departure.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 15, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
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I hope you're doing okay, Pam.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 18, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
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Sometime after September 1968, probably in the spring of '69, a young group of three or four high school students walked into West Ridge Mountaineering, a large mountaineering retail store in West Los Angeles. They announced that they would like to speak to the owner. The owner happened to be me.
They were representing a larger group of maybe 8 to 10 students from Santa Monica High School, all of whom were Boy Scouts, and all of whom were very interested in rock climbing. They were aware that Dennis Hennek and I had put together a slide show depicting our recent scent of the NA Wall in Yosemite Valley and they wished that we might show it to their group at the high school. I was delighted to do be asked by such a serious group of young aspiring rock climbers. The show was scheduled.
As I remember it, all these guys were seniors and after graduation they all frequented West Ridge. Some of them took summer jobs at West Ridge. They made me an honorary member of the G&E Buff Club – their climbing cabal that always got naked on the summit. Those that went on to college would always come back to visit or even work for the summer.
So it was that Alan Bartlett, Dave and Jim Black, Rob Dellinger, Mike Graber, Dave Hanbury, Greg Jennings, and Jack Roberts all became friends of mine. I was 20 years their senior- old enough to be their father, but when we were together we were brothers. Dave Hanbury ended up selling me his VW van. I helped crew Jennings’ sailboat down and back from Ensenada. Graber sent me photos for years from all his mountaineering expeditions – all with him in the buff. During the 70s, I climbed the south face of Mt Watkins with Rob Dellinger. About 4 or 5 pitches up we noticed another party was on the route below us. Lo and behold, Dave and Jim Black were on our tail. Jack Roberts and I went up to do the Steck-Salathe on Sentinel early one summer. We sat down at the base to snack and Jack fainted. To this day I have no idea whether it was the heat or what, but I decided it would be best to postpone our plan. We never did climb together.
I managed to keep in touch with Graber, Bartlett, and Dellinger (RIP) over all these years, but I lost track of Jack after that fainting episode. Dave Hanbury just popped up on Facebook this year. Hadn’t heard from him in over 35 years. As for Jack, I must admit that not only had I lost track, but I was completely unaware of his range of achievements in mountaineering until now. I am ashamed that someone as accomplished as he somehow slid under my radar. I’m also saddened that we never climbed Sentinel. I’m sure that had we succeeded, we would have been closer friends - lifelong friends.
My condolences to Pam.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Came upon this thread....am trying to write jack's mom a mother's day card. How to gracefully do this for a lovely, loving woman who is far enough into dementia that she can't remember that he is gone. Breaks my heart...can't see her having a mother's day without hearing from one or the other of us. But if it's only me........what will she think/remember? Ugh.....all this sadness is overwhelming sometimes. thanks to all who loved him............
pam
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steve shea
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 09:46am PT
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Pam, been thinking about Jack a lot lately. Recalling our time in the mountains. Peace
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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A gentle soul with two lifetime affairs; his wife and climbing, it doesn't get much better than that.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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May 10, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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Jim, that's SO sweet! :-)thanks..................to Steve also!
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Iwelsted
Trad climber
Nfa
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May 27, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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Quoting Mark Westman, and in respect to Jack Roberts
In an interview posted somewhere higher, Jack listed his FA of the southwest face of Denali as his proudest achievement.
With good reason...at the time he and Simon McCartney climbed it (1980), it was not only by far the hardest route that had been done on the mountain to date, it was years ahead of its time. Over 30 years later it remains unrepeated,although Canadians Ian Welsted and Chris Brazeau, in avoiding the spindrifting upper corner of the Denali Diamond may have finished on this line.
Never did meet Jack but emailed him after climbing the Diamond, one of the top three routes I ever got on. For clarity' sake for the history, we finished up the gully system heading left from the huge Diamond shaped block to end below the big serac viewable in Mark's second photo. Jack made the distinction that they did not head over to the known entity of the upper Cassin Ridge but broke trail straight up to the summit, definitely a more adventuresome approach than we took at that point in a big climb. He must have been quote the strong spirit to have chosen that line!
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Steven Eddy
climber
Manhattan Beach, CA
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Dec 29, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
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Was this the Jack Roberts who was in the Buff Mountaineers out of Santa Monica? How did he die? Many regrets, Steve Eddy
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Dec 29, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Too many RIP posts lately. We are getting old. Condolences to family and friends.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Dec 29, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Never been to Ouray Festival, but gonna make the trip this year in honor...or better said, to honor my old friend Jack! His spirit will be there for me to visit with! One of the nicest guys I've ever had the pleasure to know. Got a bum knee so won't be able to climb, but he's worth the trip.
Peace
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 29, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
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Ron, this year there will be a special award issued....the first annual Jeff Lowe Award given to the person who has contributed greatly to the success of the Ouray Ice Park and Festival. Many there will also be remembering Jack and his contributions to American ice climbing and alpinism.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Feb 17, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
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Looking for a picture of Jack's feet, and stumbled upon this thread again. Soooo great to read in its entirety! I happened to catch the last day of the Ouray Ice Festival on my way to Telluride. On January 15, a group of us met in the Bridalveil parking area, and hiked up to the base. Jon and I climbed most of the first pitch to the ledge that Jack died on. I brought up some ashes and flowers, and we all gave tribute to Jack. (I would include pictures, but don't know how the photobucket thing works!). We drank some scotch and tequila......when we returned to to our cars and were milling around, a large eagle flew over us and began slowly circling us for what seemed like 5 minutes, all the while spindrift avalanches were coming off the walls above us.
It's hard for me to believe it has been a year and a month now. Seems so much shorter. I can't really articulate what this year has been for me. Besides the obvious sadness and pain, it has also been filled with amazing love and joy. I feel things more acutely now. Sometimes I miss Jack with a pain that feels almost insurmountable. Sometimes I feel him so closely I know he is never far away. I do know that he wasn't ready to leave this earth, and for that I feel great sorrow for him. So I try extra hard to enjoy each moment, because there is still so much joy to be had. Carrying his ashes across Spain this summer on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela was an incredible experience...I had a lot of time to think and reflect on the 600 mile walk. I know I was and still am truly blessed. I tattooed the "way sign" of the Camino on my right ankle, mixed the ink with his ashes. When I ever lose my way, all I need to do is look down to find my path forward. I will carry him with me always. Anyway, just lying on the couch on a breezy Sunday, recovering from back surgery a week ago, reading the amazing tale of his and Simon's ascent of Huntington, written by my new friend Simon McCartney. Life takes many interesting twists and turns....certainly not for the meak!
Anyway.....always fills my heart to read all that you wrote. Much love.....
Pam
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 17, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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Right back at you Pam!
I am learning a lot about the power of love and respect these days in my historical work. Both flowed so beautifully together in your pairing that it is truly inspiring and a comfort to you moving forward.
Thanks for checking in.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Feb 18, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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Thanks Steve......:-)
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jan 15, 2014 - 02:18am PT
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Hard to believe it's been two years tomorrow - RIP buddy.....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 15, 2014 - 10:22am PT
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We had a memorial with Pam at the Ouray Ice Park on Sunday evening. She, and others, are going up to Bridalveil Falls today.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 15, 2014 - 08:22pm PT
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Hope you're doin' okay, Pam.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jan 15, 2014 - 09:52pm PT
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My best to Pam and friends. My thoughts often return to Colorado and you great folks.
Todd
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 16, 2014 - 03:42am PT
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A little late on this, as it's been a busy few days. Once again, I caught the tail end of the Ouray Ice Festival...Gary Ryan arranged for a nice gathering Sunday night at the Climbers' Memorial at the ice park, and then we straggled over to Donini's. So nice to be amongst Jack's friends/my friends. Then I came over to Telluride, where I am now. Spent the morning ice climbing in Bear Creek with Jon, M'Lin, and Josh...his dear friends here, and Jon was who he was with when he died. Then we met a few others, and hiked up to Bridalveil on a beautiful day. Bridalveil looked fat, and there was a party just finishing it. We had a bit of tequila and scotch, and paid our respects, before hiking out and re-assembling at the Floradora. We were pleased and surprised by Connie and Jello arriving to join us. As always, so great to see both of them.
Anyway, kind of rambling here. It has been an emotional few days. I find it hard to believe Jack has been gone for 2 years now.....feels more like 2 months to me. I believe I am living my life well, and in a way that would make him happy and proud, but sometimes his loss still brings me to my knees. Thanks always for the love you all send out.....
Pam Roberts
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jan 16, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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Jack getting stoked on a Stoker bar... Big Sandy Ledges, Half Dome, 1994. RIP Jackster
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jan 16, 2014 - 09:45am PT
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Respect,love,prayers <3
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steve shea
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2014 - 10:56am PT
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Best to you, Pam.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 16, 2014 - 11:35am PT
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Big personalities like big ships leave a strong and lasting wake.
I look forward to meeting you in the near future Pam. I am glad that are doing well.
Cheers
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 16, 2014 - 12:34pm PT
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Oct 27, 2014 - 05:14pm PT
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Thanks, Sewellyman. Richard's death also has given me pause, especially given his circumstances.
As tough as it is......our loved people live on in everyone. I've been a bit low since reading about Richard......thanks for lifting my spirits just by thinking about Jack......
best,
Pam
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Oct 27, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
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Right now to Lisa, to Hannah.......here it is nearly three years later for me after losing Jack, the love of my life. Out of the blue, a "bump" for Jack's thread. Just spent some time going through all of the comments to him, and in that, I get to re-live something that dwells in me each moment of every day, but that I don't often feel comfortable articulating any more to lots of people. After all, people move on. But those of us with deep grief, I guess we never move on in a way. I hope that you can utilize these posts for your fathers forever...............they will never be forgotten. Hard to articulate........my best to you both, and may you find the beauty in their lives, despite the pain of their loss.
xxx
Pam Roberts
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Oct 27, 2014 - 09:21pm PT
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That's a great post , Pam.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jack goofing around at the base of Lover's Leap, 1999.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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We'd always planned on going to Oaxaca for Dia de los muertos....instead, I put together an altar for him each year. Sushi and scotch for him always....xxxx
Pam
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jan 11, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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<3......
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 11, 2015 - 02:05pm PT
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Of course this thread would find its way back....the Ouray Ice Festival was Jack's last festival.......he died January 15, 2012. I'm heading to Telluride this week, for my annual pilgrimage to Bridalveil, to Ouray, and to the part of Colorado he loved so much. It feels important for me to be there then, and to be with his Telluride friends, and most especially to be with Jon, in whose arms he died. Perhaps I'll post up some pictures after our jaunt.
Pam
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Found in an old box of slides:
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Nice, Rob! Does this mean you have located your long-lost slide collection?
Those capture typical Jack expressions. The one in the parking lot recalls the naked ice climber shot taken by Simon McCartney at the base of Mt. Huntington.
Pam-The greatest testament to who Jack was is your undying love for him. It is something to behold.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Rob,
What a fun surprise seeing those pictures! Such a gift to see pictures of Jack that I have never seen before, from a time when I only know stories. Rob, if you find any more, post up, please! Or you can send them to me at srfrpam@aol.com. :-)
Rick....what a lovely thing to say. Brings tears to my eyes! To me and in my life, he was a man unlike any other, even with his imperfections. When we were together, especially on trips (either our own or guiding with him) we were the perfect team, and he was the perfect playmate. He is still such a part of me, and I will always miss him.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Unfortunately, no, Rick. Someone (who used to live in the Rancho/Fontana area, and who hosted a slideshow put on by Todd Gordon back in the 1980s) has two boxes (many hundreds) of my slides. They've never been returned, despite having my French Alpine Club card laying in them. Unfortunately, I discovered them missing many years too late.
These slides were found in an old box of weird keepsakes out in the shed… And these are not my best ones of our epic on Cosmos, sadly.
Pam, I've got other Cosmos slides posted on Facebook. Friend me (@ Robs John Muir) for more particulars. I'll shoot you an e-mail…
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 15, 2016 - 11:50am PT
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Just a bump for Jack. 4 years ago today he left us to go on his greatest adventure. Or maybe it all just stopped? I CAN say that I'll never stop missing him, and he continues to be a presence in my life. Tell someone you love them today, just in case............
Pam
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jan 15, 2016 - 12:08pm PT
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Miss Jack every day. Such a great guy, and partner. Love ya Pam!!
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jan 15, 2016 - 12:57pm PT
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I was climbing in Colorado last week and remembered, as I often do, the day I met Jack at a clinic near Cody. I asked him a question about why he chose to go leashless; he answered by handing me his ice tools and putting me on belay. A simple lesson and a kind gesture--like all simple lessons, effective--and, like all kind gestures, memorable.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 15, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
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So sorry for you loss. I was on a big ice climb yesterday and thought of Jack though I have never met him.
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| Messages 1 - 224 of total 224 in this topic |
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