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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 12:17am PT
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'Sides Beebs, we got a mission 'comin bra.
Check email soon.
Fall '2006, down south.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 12:34am PT
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I Feel Like You Got Me In A Jam Here,
Bra.
I can fix it, with Tequila.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 27, 2006 - 12:07pm PT
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that don't look nuthin' like canon tajo to me...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 12:09pm PT
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Point Taken.
But I'm a Gotta good 'un planned fer us down there...
Ya thinks I should post the pic now, 'n see if anyone knows about it, or should I email it to ya, secrit like?
check yer email, bra.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 27, 2006 - 12:25pm PT
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the mussy nebula is an open source code galactic phenomena, babe. post up and let the great unwashed masses recieve the blessings of mussy illumination.
jesus wept.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 12:37pm PT
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Just South of Mission Gorge:
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 27, 2006 - 12:54pm PT
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Dibs on the face crack just right of center.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 12:58pm PT
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sewelley: no not wall of voodoo.
Piton, I already called dibs!
Lets go do it, there'll be like 30 of us on the team, so we each get 40+ feet on glory lead...
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 27, 2006 - 01:01pm PT
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No! no no Tar ..... it's mine, mine, mine ......
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 27, 2006 - 01:10pm PT
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Not if you don't help...
30 X 40+ = 1200+
(???)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 27, 2006 - 01:38pm PT
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'tar, is that the north face of the throne, or is it the alternative gully into canyon tajo -- the one that starts down into CT about about two miles north of the campground?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 02:06pm PT
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Ron, I knew you'd be a 'callin me on that,
I was factoring old dad fidget, ya know 10 feet up, 20 feet back down...
I'm guessin its about 600 vert, tops, maybe 400 at the low end.
Beebs, Little Smoke and I think El Camino? are visible left of our line....
Yes werner: ours.mine.yours.his.hers.theirs...
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Mar 27, 2006 - 02:14pm PT
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NF of the Throne in the shade, and the sunny face is NW, if ya wanna get technical. Most of those lines done ben climbed, but not all free. That huge dihedral up there has a horrendous awful width at the bottom. (Two pitches, for scale.) We rapped in with jugs. Good thing.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 27, 2006 - 02:52pm PT
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Ten up, twenty down?
Hmmm.
Now we're caving.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 03:37pm PT
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So, Vawter, the corner with the wide you mentioned, is perhaps the Little Smoke? I was recalling that was done by Largo-
Perhaps with you?
I also recall, at any rate, that they were done by rapping in.
MP seemed pretty confident that the NW Face had not and still hasn't been climbed. I would tend to agree with you, that most things have been done.
John V,Wanna go do it in the Fall?
Off/bvb/piton et al?
I'm still up for VO+ highballs either way.
BTW, I took this shot from Wall of Voodo, for an orientation of that route-
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Mar 27, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
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Yer right, I'm talkin' outta my ass. I should say that most of the crack systems on the right (in the sun) have been started. They're steep and discontinuous, and all parties AFAIK have resorted to some aid before bailing. Werner L. did two+ pitches on the one Ron picked out, before bailing. He said it looked like aid from there without much natural pro. More effort than the line was worth.
One (that I know of) left of that has been linked to the big dihedral with some aid. Don't know if that is called Little Smoke. I rapped in with Ken Cook and we were gonna name it Morning Thunder, but couldn't free climb the first 50 feet.
'Tusi is probably right about the face to the left, the real NF. AFAIK it has not been climbed bottom to top because partys loose interest with all the ledges and veges in the way.
I'm told that Rick Accomazzo did a route on the NE corner, those cool cracks down at the notch. But after 2-3 pitches, it doesn't look that good. A maze of ledges and mixed climbing. But I didn't hear that from Rick. So maybe that's bunk.
Tar, a new route on the NF? Sounds like work. What about the par-tay?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 06:21pm PT
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Yes John Vawter,
'Got all that, thanks for the detail.
The line Tusi' and I have been thinking about these 20 odd (very odd) years was in fact the "Olevski Face Crack", dead up the center of the triangular face.
It has two parallel features which peter out before the tip of the triangle. Your second hand reportage sounds viable, meaning I could see those weaknesses being in fact grooves or other "bait" features.
Nevertheless, I have a bottle of Espolon and I recommend we set a date, Gas Up, and go down for whutever.
BVB: please send me your address; I know you were kidding over on the toasted-tarbuster-appreciation thread. Nevertheless,
HA!
I have something for you.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Mar 27, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
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Flared, bottoming, grooves. That's it. Good for heads 'n such, not so good for hands and fingers.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 07:14pm PT
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VO+ highballs it is then...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 07:17pm PT
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OK,
THIS, is the Worlds Strongest Climber:
...both the brains and the brawn of the Bachar Yerian.
Bachar just happened to scope the route, do the leading, put in the bolts...
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