Accident at Saddle Rock in JT

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 63 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Abend

Social climber
Dec 19, 2011 - 10:10pm PT
My heart goes out to Bill and Jane at this difficult time. Kim, I hope you will post an update when they are ready to start receiving cards/email.
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Dec 19, 2011 - 11:06pm PT
Bill, my thoughts and prayers are with you. I pray for your strength and healing. Get better, my friend.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Dec 20, 2011 - 12:19am PT
If life was a roadmap and a human could pick their route, freeway, highway, etc. climbers, kayakers and other outdoor folk would undoubtedly pick the knarly off road route.

We can get taken out on a highway as well as on a road in the middle of no where. Things happen.

But really living life is what life is about. I don't know you Bill, but I admire your life. Praying for you young man. No one can really predict outcomes. May you have an incredible recovery. And comfort and peace along with prayers for the decisions you and your wife will need to make along the way. lynne
Anastasia

climber
I'm simply missing my mama.
Dec 20, 2011 - 01:31am PT
I heard through the grapevine and... I am really sorry about the accident and what you guys are going through right this second. Wishing, hoping and praying for the best outcome. Beyond that, if you need anything from us, just email me and I'll do everything that is in my power.

Our regards,
Anastasia and Bill
BillL

Trad climber
NM
Dec 20, 2011 - 10:06am PT
I don't assume everyone has the same experience. And forgive if this seems disrespectful in assumptions ...

The first week or so which is now, the mind is still firing in the old patterns: what were those moves in that tricky section a week or so ago? what's the next climb? where's the next trip? etc.. But the body is clearly going a different way. It takes time to reconcile the two and gain new patterns, of course.

And this definitely extends to those who are personally close as they are making obviously significant adjustments to the difference in someone for whom they deeply care. We all find it hard to change things in ourselves even when we want that change. Yes? And yet, the folks mentioned so far in this post have no choice. Time doesn't work that way. And so it is hard.

There's all the above complications to contend with while those not so close are wondering about and wishing to learn from the details of what happened. While I personally recall what's said above out of my own experience, I also definitely fall into this latter category of folks in this case and tend to rush to unhelpful speculation ... even here. :-/

Someone on Super Topo once said we should wait to dissect until the person is out of the hospital ... or similar milestone - can't recall; I believe it was in the thread that generated "The Woody Check". And given Bill's keenness for the out-of-doors and his own experiences with mentoring new climbers, I believe he'll see to it that the community eventually learns as much as practical from his experience ... when his higher-priority challenges are resolved.

Bill L
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
So sorry to here this....strength to Bill and his family and friends...
Bill Becher

Trad climber
Westlake Village, CA
Feb 3, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
Thanks all for the good wishes. I’m trying not to dwell on what happened, and I a way it’s embarrassing as I made some pretty basic mistakes. Don’t want to participate in a “dissection” of the accident, but in the hope of preventing future ones, here’s my version of what happened.

I was taking a new climber on an “eval” climb for the SCMA. She needed to do at least a three pitch trad climb and had to complete it by Dec 31. We went to Saddle Rock early to do Right On, a climb I’d done a few weeks before without incident. I had a sense of urgency, and a need to hurry. Bad idea. Climbing should be efficient, but not hurried, with temptations to cut corners.

We did a variation start on the right side from a ledge below a small overhang with a a fist sized crack. I placed a piece in the crack, but I was so low it didn’t really amount to pro. I got over the ledge and made my first mistake, heading straight up rather than traversing left where there was better pro. I saw a stuck piece higher up and thought I’d save time by going straight up.

Sometimes we get tunnel vision, focusing on a hold, feature, bolt, whatever and going for it rather than taking a more intelligent line. But there was no pro on the dihedral I was following until I was really run out. I was slab climbing, and the slab was gritty and loose, not good footing. I reached a finger crack, where the cam was stuck. I tried to get a jamb in the crack and leaned forward, raising my heels, a beginner mistake. My feet greased off and I fell, flipping over when I hit the overhand and lawn darted head first on to the ledge.

Fortunately I’d discussed emergency procedures with my partner and had given her a spare key to my truck. She down climbed from the belay ledge and drove to Intersection Rock to the ranger phone. Apparently it didn’t work too well, a bad connection, but she was able to alert the rangers. Three climbers from Las Vegas, an EMT, Wilderness First Responder and a vet came back with her and gave me some great care. I could tell that I was paralyzed, no feeling or ability to move my legs.

When they got there the stabilized my neck and checked me over. I remember the vet saying the pulse in my hind legs was good. At least she didn’t put me down… Thanks to these climbers for some great care. The SAR team showed up and another EMT took over. They had to carry me out “caterpillar” style on a board. Then an ambulance and heli to Desert Regions Hospital, a trauma center that handles a lot of dirt bike and other accidents in the desert area.

Damages were a shattered spine, spinal cord severed at T10, both scapula fractured, a bunch of ribs fractured and a fractured clavicle. A six hour surgery fused the spine, and a month of rehab in Northridge has got me learning how to live in a wheelchair.

Lessons: Avoid a sense of hurrying when climbing, avoid loose slab climbing, don’t run it out, keep the heels down, don’t develop tunnel vision when there are better lines. Think! I didn’t and paid a big price. Hope this helps.

Bill Becher
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 3, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
There's no doubt that among those who read this, and because of reading this, better decisions will be made in similar situations, and some accidents will be avoided. Thank you, Bill, for taking the time, and showing the courage to write this. Best wishes to you in your recovery.
rwedgee

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
Feb 3, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
Best wished to you and strength to keep moving forward.

Chris
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Feb 3, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
Thanks for posting Bill. This could happen to any of us, and we all hope the best for you.
Rick
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Feb 3, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
Bill - thanks for posting and happy to see you here. Best wishes.
John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
Feb 3, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
Bill,

Wishing you the best. Thanks for the great advice.

jb
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Feb 3, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
Bill,

We all have made similar errors in judgment and were lucky to escape relatively unscathed. I am glad to hear that you are healing and thank you posting this reminder to the rest of us.
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Feb 3, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
Thank you for posting, and for your humor, as shown in the sentence about the vet and your hind leg!

Learning to live - we can all use lessons in that, can't we? May you find that rolling along with your chair takes you up a path that brings great joy and fulfillment in the chapters ahead in your life story.

phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Feb 3, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
Bill, thank you so much for providing a first hand account of your accident. The smallest mistakes when climbing can result in horrific consequences, as happened to you.

Thank you also for your example of courage and determination as you continue physical therapy and rehab for your life going forward.

Phyl
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
-A race of corn eaters
Feb 3, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
Bill,

Thanks for posting your account and counsel.
I hope you'll stick around here at the forum.

All the best to you.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Feb 3, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
Bill,

So glad you are still with us. And that you can write as well as ever. That "lawn dart" descriptor will stick with me forever. Hooray for the helmet and people who take time to get trained on first aid.

Chris
Bill Becher

Trad climber
Westlake Village, CA
Feb 3, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
A friend took my BD helmet. She said at first it looked okay. Then she held it up to the light and saw a crack right across the top. Several patients at the rehab hospital had brain injuries and were seriously f'd up. Felt sorry for them and their families.
Abend

Social climber
Feb 4, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
Glad you are back online.
Good to hear from you Bill.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 4, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
Incredible story. A very brave man, continue your healing journey and many thanks for sharing. Yes, it truly could have been any of us.

Susan
Messages 41 - 60 of total 63 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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