Remembering Rob Slater

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Messages 1 - 59 of total 59 in this topic
Ultra Fool

Mountain climber
Cheyenne, Wy
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 12, 2011 - 12:18pm PT
Some of you may remember Rob Slater, who died descending from the summit of K2 in 1995. Rob also did the first ascent of the Wyoming Sheep Ranch and first solo of the Pacific Ocean Wall in Yosemite. Rob was also the first person to climb all of the Fisher Towers. I am Rob's twin brother Rich and I have written a book about Rob called "Honed: Rob Slater, Summit of Death, Either way I win." Info can be found at gettinghoned.com.
HuecoRat

Trad climber
NJ
Dec 12, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
I last saw Rob halfway up the regular route on Half Dome. He and Greg Child were blasting up it and passed through our bivy as we were packing the haulbag. Talked for awhile and then they went on up. He went to K2 a few months later.
Fish Finder

Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
Dec 12, 2011 - 01:09pm PT


Sorry for the loss of your brother.

His spirit lives on through you!

Good luck with the book !
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 12, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
bump!
crunch

Social climber
CO
Dec 12, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
Thanks! Rob was something of a force of nature, amazingly driven.

Here's a link:

http://gettinghoned.com/index.asp



Dickbob

climber
Westminster Colorado
Dec 12, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
Shared a rap with him at the base of the naked edge once. They had a rope and we had a rope and that took us to the ground. He did not say much but that says a lot about a man.
gunsmoke

Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
Dec 12, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
Rob was climber to his core. When he talked about climbing, he had a look in his eye I still remember. Rest in peace.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 12, 2011 - 04:30pm PT
Force of nature is right! I met Rob in Vedauwoo early on. He was the most enthusiastic, animated climbers I ever met. Ran into him often in the valley, before getting out of touch.
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Dec 12, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
Rob was a good friend, and always super psyched. I saw him here in Boulder a few days before he left for K2. I miss his smile, his psych, his motivation and his friendship.

Paul
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Dec 12, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
A great man. Worthy of a book.
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
Dec 12, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
Quote from the book:

El Capitan is horrendous. It’s hideous and heinous. It’s a horrifically terrifying cliff.

Lost me at that one. Was checking it to consider adding to our guest bookshelf. But, don't want any of my loved ones or my vacation rental guests thinking that about El Cap!!

How about and more like:

El Cap is beautiful, wonderful and magical. Its an incredibly inspiring cliff.

She demands and you rise to the occasion if you can. Its a transforming and amazing space, like the Shield Headwall... "steep, clean and outrageously exposed, The Shield headwall may be the most spectacular place on El Capitan" (Chris Mac, Big Walls book).
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 12, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
Quite the man.......quite the man. Respected, even revered, by all who knew him.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Dec 12, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
seems kind of lame to 'write' off a whole book based on one quote Holly , and kind of weird that you feel the need to control what your guests may or may not read .

I want to get the book and make my conclusions when I've read the whole thing
Ultra Fool

Mountain climber
Cheyenne, Wy
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
Rob loved Yosemite and El Cap. Coming from Rob, horrendous, heinous and weinous-way heinous-were compliments.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 12, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
Hi Rich,

I never met your brother Rob, but wish I had. I climbed the Ranch recently and found it to be an excellent and still Pretty Darn Hard route!
D.Eubanks

climber
Dec 12, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
Met Rob at the base of El Cap in the mid 80's just before he and Barbella finished the Sheep Ranch. He had as much good energy and charisma of anyone I ever met. I was blown away to hear about Robs death on K2, he was a special dude. I have the sheep that Rob left up on the Sheep Ranch and cherish it very much.
Ultra Fool

Mountain climber
Cheyenne, Wy
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 10:23am PT
Thank you all for the kind words. I'm sure Rob is grinning down at us as we remember...
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Dec 13, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
I got to know Robbie on my first trip to the valley. He had a great sense of humor and seemed always happy.

I can still do a hands down perfect imitation of him talking....

FrankZappa

Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
Dec 13, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
Rob was a friend of mine; we climbed a few desert towers together and cragged in Eldo a few times. Very motivated guy who was a natural at climbing and got a kick out of the somewhat friendly competition/slander in the Yosemite world. He was one of my first friends to die...really bummed me out.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Dec 13, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
Rob was one of the most inspirational climbers ever. Always friendly, always jazzed for the next adventure, completely badass as a bold climber and always having fun.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 13, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
I met Rob a few times. The first time was at the base of the Captain back in 1983. My first and I were wall noobs and off to do Zodiac, which was still considered kind of a hard trade route back then. He had that trademark grin and was super friendly and super supportive, something you didn't always get from that upper echelon of climbers. A really good guy.
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Dec 13, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
My buddy Steve and I were climbing on the Apron sometime in the fall, around 1984 or so. It was late in the day and we were walking down when we heard, "help, help." We hustled back to the base of the apron to find some guy who had led a long pitch with only one rope and couldn't get down. Apparently, his partner had left to find help. We tied one of our ropes on his and he rapped down. I walked up to the guy - "hey, you really ought to make sure that...Oh Hi Rob."

Rob didn't even mention his predicament, or why he was slab climbing on the Apron for that matter. In his usual excited, animated way all he could say was "Lovetron, You guys have just got to see Lovetron!" We followed him to his car, listening to him chatter the whole way about all the plans he had and what he was going to climb next. He opened the trunk of his car and pulled out a ve-24 tent pole with some cords arranged and a hook on the end. He could somehow manipulate a hook or even a cam from 15 feet away. He just stood there grinning that amazing grin that he had. I still laugh about that.

In some ways I felt that Rob was treated as an outsider in the valley. I don't think, at least initially, he was accepted into the clique. And his personality was pretty overwhelming. I always liked him a lot and I can still picture that grin. I wasn't all that surprised when he died though. He lived on the edge and wasn't afraid to go for it.

Thanks for sharing the book. I'll be sure to read it.
Ultra Fool

Mountain climber
Cheyenne, Wy
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 06:31pm PT
Thanks for that story-the Lovetron is certainly in the book!
fosburg

climber
Dec 14, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
I climbed with Rob a few times. The first was when he was in the valley with some time to kill and get tuned up before the first ascent of what would be Wyoming Sheep Ranch. Somehow, though we'd never met, he hit me up to go do Zenith on Half Dome. I'd done the Nose and I think the Prow at that point so I thought it'd be a good opportunity to learn about nailing from a real Heavy even though he clearly just needed a sub-man. I borrowed a hammock and signed on.
Rob didn't know the slabs so we had to hike up the back side. I carried a haulbag that honestly probably weighed about 80 or 90 lbs. We bivied at the base and Rob basically never shut up talking about right-wing politics, stupid Boulder Trustafarians, The Sea way light etc. I remember he had a Reagan/Bush bumper sticker on his ledge. He was a very likable guy.
The next day I was very fatigued and intimidated and we blasted. Rob lead some pitches and then I lead an A3 pitch that was absolutely beyond anything I'd ever experienced. The way I rigged the rope for him to jug caused it to abrade over an edge and cheesed the sheath. He was WAY pissed! "God dammit, that's what slings are for! God dammit, blah, blah, etc.". He was right but I was a total gumby. So he casts out on the next lead, an A5 double pendulum. Swinging back and forth absolutely unfazed, "Here, hold onto my Charlie Porter hat." More mad swinging and he latches a hook on and starts motoring up. "There's NO WAY this pitch is A5, etc.!".
Rob was ready to haul and somehow in the general diphtheria I dropped our daypack that contained his camera. I think we both watched it explode in Bushido Gully. "God dammit, you owe me a new camera!, we're bailing because you're so light duty! etc."
We bailed down the slabs just hoping for the best route finding-wise. Rob wound up having to cut his haulbag loose at the very bottom downclimbing some 5th class. John Barbella and Bob the Aid Man were there where it landed (carrying loads for Arctic Sea) and they thank God smoked me out.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Dec 15, 2011 - 01:33am PT
Hey Fos-

he hit me up to go do Space on Half Dome

Did you mean Queen of spades? another Cole route? Space is near Genisis on EC. Whatever route, sounded like a good intro!

Slater sounded like a great partner.

Somebody throw up some pics! Bound to be some good ones.

D.Eubanks

climber
Dec 15, 2011 - 02:19am PT
That was a good one fosburg...good story.

An A5, double pendulum pitch kinda sounds like Zenith.
fosburg

climber
Dec 15, 2011 - 02:24am PT
Oops, yea, Zenith.
D.Eubanks

climber
Dec 15, 2011 - 09:13am PT
Anyone have any pics to post of Rob....Ultra fool ?
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Dec 15, 2011 - 12:50pm PT
I used to cross paths with Rob. I never got to know him well, but he was always friendly to me, and had that grin that made him look like he was guilty of something.

I remember attending his memorial in Eldo. I remember seeing his childhood climbing partner talk about their ascent of Slipstream the previous winter, and then raise his voice with a "hell yeah" kinda tone to celebrate the fact that Rob had summitted K2 before being blown off the mountain. This seemed to me to be a tip of the hat to the attitude of "summit or grave. . either way I win."

I also remember thinking that I was tired of going to memorials in Eldo for fallen climbers. This was after Mugs was killed and after Derek died. We'd had Derek's memorial in Eldo and it just seemed like we were losing too many special characters to climbing. Selfishly, I wanted to hold positive memories and thoughts of Eldo; not memories of memorial services.
Ultra Fool

Mountain climber
Cheyenne, Wy
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Dec 16, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
D.Eubanks ur gonna have to tell me more about Rob slater at our next slab party!
fosburg

climber
Dec 16, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
Nice photo, that's the Charlie Porter hat!
midwest john

Boulder climber
Wilmette, Illinois
Dec 20, 2011 - 01:45pm PT
I climbed with Rob quite a bit at Devils Lake and our local hard buildering spots in and around Chicago. He was a climbers climber to be sure, the harder the better. As someone mentioned, you could see the passion in his eyes. Very few people are that psyched. Great guy.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
I remember Rob's playfulness,
and his ability to kick back and laugh
just as much as his enthusiasim and drive...

his preoccupation with CLH...

his smiles,
and on a cold and casual day with Randy and Rob out in the wonderland as he laid back on warm stone...
and snugged a little better into his parka....
he introspectively commented:

" I'm not feeling very motivated today."

he made a lot of us smile.

cts

Social climber
sw PA
Dec 20, 2011 - 02:36pm PT
It so easy for me to remmeber Rob. I still have a hold (that I see almost everyday) from the Formula on the West Ridge of Eldo, that broke off on him there. We had just decided to do Formula after Pony Express. when a huge hold on Formula broke off at the crux. Rob just had that confident, easy going smile, and after we both tried it a couple of times we just gave up, not even feeling bad (that was new for me). But we both had done other clims and were at the end of the day) But I'll never forget his smile, his easy going, casual, never let anything get you down attitude. He was such a joy to rope up with and getting up a route was always second to enjoying the day (this is NOT to say he was not motivated, he was incredible). That smile could put your whole soul at ease. I could not believe it when I heard he had passed. Lost so many friends on bigger mountains, Robbie was one who could never be replaced.
unknown

climber
chicago
Dec 22, 2011 - 02:49am PT
Yo, somehow that book is no longer downloadable. Contacting customer service ...
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Dec 22, 2011 - 11:59am PT
bump
Ultra Fool

Mountain climber
Cheyenne, Wy
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 11:22am PT
It should be available in all formats at www.gettinghoned.com. Thanks again for all the great comments!
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Dec 23, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
I remember Rob from Devil's Lake when he lived in Chicago, giant smile and totally psyched. Never seen someone that psyched to this day.
Bequita

climber
Dec 28, 2011 - 10:35am PT
bump
dmons

climber
Jan 27, 2012 - 09:07am PT
back in 92'

was packed into the old boulder rock gym watching a finals event where derek hersey had been given the microphone to announce the blow by blow

he was barely comprehensible

rob was to my left and had started translating derek for this attractive foreign women who couldnt understand a bit of dereks speech

rob really got animated and developed a wider audience as he add mixed in stories about him and derek

alan lester about split a side at one point

the comp wrapped up and we all stood up, rob says to the girl

"well im leaving, coming with?"
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Feb 2, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
Hey Rich,

I just finished reading your book. Nice job. I think you really captured Rob's character as well as your quest for acceptance. I enjoyed it a lot.

Some funny parallels for me. I'm the same age and swam for Laramie High at the time you guys swam for Cheyenne. I don't remember Rob from then but we must have competed at swim meets. Also, I don't get to Laramie all that often anymore, but when I do I always drive up to the headquarter's trail for a run. It's my favorite place in the world to run. Perhaps we'll cross paths one of these days.

Again, nice job. It made me think about Rob and the few times we shared together.

mike friedrichs
Ultra Fool

Mountain climber
Cheyenne, Wy
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
Thanks Mike. Headquarters Trail forms part of what I refer to in the book as the Death Crotch Loop. My favorite as well. I plan on being up there this weekend. Rob is always there. Take care.
Nilepoc

Boulder climber
Tx
Oct 2, 2012 - 09:17am PT
I just finished reading Honed and wanted to say thank you for writing it. When I started climbing in 1988 I remember hearing about Rob and being super inspired to climb like him. While I never reached his level of success, I did climb The Nose in 92 and the NA this Sept. The whole time I was on the NA wall I looked over and thought about the stories I had read about the ranch. Your book captures the man that inspired me and many others. Again thank you for writing it and sharing your experiences.

Craig
FrankZappa

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
Oct 17, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
Xrcr

Sport climber
Louisville, CO
Jun 3, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
1979 Rob and I were climbing 'italian super spar' (italian arete, super slab to Arts spar) in Eldorado. Hanging from a shitty pin on a 2" ledge, Rob looks down 500'
and back to me with his huge toothy grin and says "hey Jim, if we fall from here we'll fall for the rest of our lives!" That was Rob.
10b4me

Ice climber
Jun 3, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
Kevin, that is a great story.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jun 3, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
"hey Jim, if we fall from here we'll fall for the rest of our lives!

that is actually quite witty
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jun 3, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
Good memory dmons, we drove up from the Springs to catch that show.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Jun 4, 2013 - 12:58am PT
Rich, your bro was a fantastic guy. Got to do some great climbing with him one season in Eldo... the one before he went to K2. I was so looking forward to doing a bunch more when he got back -- we had big plans. I've also palled around a fair bit with Randy Leavitt, mostly surfing, although that doesn't stop us from telling Slater stories. Heard one of my favorites from Sharon Sadlier after Rob had barged in her door in Eldorado Springs just after sunrise that morning nursing a colossal jolt of adrenaline -- he'd just BASE jumped the Bastille, he was shaking like a dog shitting peach pits, and he just HAD to share the stoke. It still makes me laugh every time I think of Sharon imitating Rob shaking and talking like machine-gun fire...
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Jun 4, 2013 - 01:12am PT
rob took a vital role in early big wall days. his solo of the po was big, and i was on a nearby wall to witness it. wyoming sheep ranch still scares me, aparrently according to his partner on the climb, john barbella, slater was just a natural at hooking, feeling comfortable as much as 60 feet out on hooks. i think the route is a bit easier now. coupled with his wild basejumping stories, he was definitely a larger-than life-guy. steve
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Jun 5, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
Just another example of Fosburgs History in the making
Good story Kevin--had me laughing
When are you going to write that book?
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jun 15, 2016 - 05:43am PT
Bump,
The 'lost decade' of the 80s
Those days still glow in my mind as the best, The very best it ever was. Mostly, all of us living together, as equals in the dirt, rubbing shoulders with such high energy people. . Soon to be the famous as the best climbers, hyped by Magazines, rock stars, but still down to earth.

Those times saw all the stars align; Boys turning into men. Time on our side. The right gear for, the stoke for, the go for broke attitude. A way of life that saw to it that the level of what we climbed would influence generations of kids just starting out.

New stuff getting done all over the place; Rob was always out front,
leading by example. It was His 'drive' that was infectious.

A challenge from him was both praise & intimidating . Rob's idea of 'friendly' competition was to chase you up a climb - especially if he knew you were at your limit .

Rob could climb circles around most anyone. ( and he did so, on purpose )He was a cocky one, heard we were going to try the Free Blast, and raced up after us. always ready to climb around you -nicely, sorta' - he would laugh and say just un-clip that when I'm through the next piece . . . We left him clipped.
EdwardT

Trad climber
Retired
Jun 15, 2016 - 09:14am PT
The OP link seems to no longer work. But there is a Facebook page. Honed: Rob Slater.

Here's the description of the book.

Before there was Tony Hawk skateboarding in empty swimming pools there was Rob Slater screaming down the Cheyenne Frontier Days arena ramps and launching himself on his old green Schwinn. Before there was Fear Factor contestants climbing scaffolding with safety lines and eating worms there was Rob Slater topping out on the hardest routes in Yosemite having subsisted for five days on Sara Lee coffee cakes and Mint Milanos, three days on water alone and the last two days on nothing. Before there was the X Games and its generation of pop culture daredevils there was Rob Slater diving off antennae, bridges, skyscrapers, mountain cliffs and canyon walls with a parachute, mostly at night. Before climbers wore Lycra there was Rob Slater wielding the Lovetron on previously inconceivable, death-defying aid moves on El Capitan. Long before “crazy” became cool and popular on TV there was Rob Slater.
If there had been X Games, Fear Factor, skateboard parks and the like, Rob might have found all the danger he needed to satisfy his drive to do what no one else would even dare. Maybe he could have done without skydiving and BASE jumping. Maybe he wouldn’t have been so hell-bent on risking everything time after time putting up the toughest new routes on sheer granite walls. Most of all, he might have been able to do without K2, the world’s deadliest mountain that became his obsession and drew him far too soon to his demise.
But I doubt it. I know about Rob because I am his identical twin brother. We were in many ways as similar as two human beings could be. We looked alike, talked alike and even liked the same kind of Pop Tarts. But when it came to living life, Rob went much further out on that razor’s edge, staring down The Reaper and thumbing his nose at disaster than I ever had the courage for. I have never been afraid of dying, but my twin brother had a much greater need for adrenaline and danger than I’ve ever felt. Quoting the infamous Charles Manson, Rob used to joke he “was crazy back when being crazy meant something.” But it was much more than that.
Rob was gentle, loyal and loving, but also irreverent, ribald, outrageous, sometimes raunchy and impossibly politically incorrect. Rob was incredibly focused and driven, but did not believe in helmets or safety nets. He was also the most courageous and funniest guy I ever met. What made Rob so different from everyone else? What made him so different from me?
Nothing demonstrated Rob’s drive for the ultimate physical and mental challenge more than K2. While Mount Everest, in Rob’s view, was “covered with tourists and their garbage, K2 is covered with the dead bodies of guys who have tried to climb it. K2 is the ultimate mountain. I have to climb it.”
“Summit or death, either way I win,” Rob had proclaimed. On August 13, 1995, Rob and five others reached the summit of K2. As they began their descent, a horrific storm materialized with amazing speed and intensity. Winds of 150 miles per hour tore Rob and the others from the summit ridge. Why had the mountain gods forsaken him?
By telling Rob’s tale and sharing his accomplishments and personality, I hope to understand him better. I know what he loved, but I was compelled to seek out what motivated him and what he feared. I want to be with my brother again, but not just in spirit. Perhaps if I can understand him – and therefore, myself – better through this memoir, we’ll grow closer. Perhaps I’ll discover we weren’t so different after all.

Andy de klerk

Mountain climber
South Africa
Jun 15, 2016 - 02:22pm PT
"Summit or death either way I win" No the best win is to get off the summit alive. There's lots of life that comes after the summit
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Jun 15, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
credit, or at least name for slater's twin? ... writer of great stuff!
nevermind, i got it ... rich slater ... OP !!!

enrolled now in reading comprehension, hope it takes

EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Dec 21, 2016 - 11:54pm PT
bump
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 22, 2016 - 09:20am PT
Somewhere I have a photo of the "Death Crotch" sign...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 23, 2016 - 08:18am PT
Nihilism sounds cool until you truly live it.

I'm with Maestro de Klerk, you die you lose. No sense in rolling out the welcome mat.
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