Old Roubidoux Photos

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dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Nov 5, 2011 - 01:19am PT
Hensel and Long; just a note. Its moves, problems and routes you guys did back then, that truly inspired me and others to push to levels once thought of as unachievable( for me ). True Rock Climbing Hall of fame guys. I love old school Photos!

Dawg.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Nov 5, 2011 - 10:36am PT
Great thread, guys!
It both brings back memories and inspires me to go bouldering today.
I'll see if I can scan some slides and add to the mix.
Randisi

Boulder climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Nov 5, 2011 - 10:54am PT
Credit where credit is due:

Ament wrote "I could grasp the holds but not the problem," not Largo. Not to mention that you got it backwards.
BillO

Trad climber
Yachats, OR
Nov 5, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
Always been my favorite place
.
on fiveniner
on fiveniner
Credit: BillO
Overexposed?
Overexposed?
Credit: BillO
Beach problem
Beach problem
Credit: BillO
Credit: BillO
Power Pak
Power Pak
Credit: BillO
Tissack
Tissack
Credit: BillO
And still surprised how few people I see out there when I'm bouldering.
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Nov 5, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
Thanks for the correction, Randisi.
TY
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Nov 5, 2011 - 02:32pm PT
Ahh yes, tumbling off of Autopilot.
Robs may remember the pitch I took off fairly high on that. Not quite sure how it was I didn't fall to the road.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Nov 6, 2011 - 11:18am PT
Ah, yes, Steve. Popping off Autopilot from anywhere above head level is a dicey proposition. I do remember someone taking a high fall onto a pad laying on the sloping, wet, friable surface and taking a fast glissade all the way to the asphalt!

Here's a link to a very old animated GIF of the Pilot. Step by step.

Autopilot
Autopilot
Credit: rmuir

The last part of the major crux on Teflon... (Posted elsewhere.)

Teflon
Teflon
Credit: rmuir

Hey Phil... We wanna see those historic scans!
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Nov 6, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
Credit: Fogarty
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Nov 6, 2011 - 02:47pm PT
Credit: Fogarty
henny

Social climber
The Past
Nov 6, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
If, by some remote chance, there are a few sandbag ratings at Rubidoux I would have to think those are the fault of sketchy. If memory serves me right he twisted our arms and made us downrate things while preparing for the contests.

More pictures please.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Nov 12, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
Excuse my taking so long to post these photos. School work and getting the yard/garden ready for winter has taken all my free time.

Rob: I couldn't find very many slides of bouldering at Roubidoux. I guess we really didn't take that many pictures in those days (compared to today's 100 pics per day).

The following series is Jim Barker and Phil Haney top roping on the Joe Brown boulder. Anyone know what ever happened to Phil Haney?

Credit: PhilG

Credit: PhilG

Credit: PhilG

Credit: PhilG

Credit: PhilG









PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Nov 13, 2011 - 10:34am PT
I'm guessing nobody knows what happened to Phil Haney?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 13, 2011 - 11:39am PT
That is one of the Top 5 Rubidoux problems

Hell Craig, that sucker would be one of the top five problems anywhere. Broke my heart the first time I went to Roobie and saw all that freakin' paint.

DonC

climber
CA
Nov 13, 2011 - 11:45am PT
These are great! I started bouldering at Roubidoux in the late '60s and don't have a single picture.
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle
Nov 13, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
A practice aid climb across a thin seam, placing the pins like nuts so as to avoid scarring the rock . Then up an expanding flake (bats used to fly out when disturbed) to an overhanging bolt ladder.

@henny - I do remember a goat while out with Haney once. No pix tho.
Thanx for the post Phil. Svenson might know Haney's whereabouts?

@DonC - good to hear from you.

Great times working on problems there over the years. We used to bring 2 short pieces of plywood in Paul's VW Bug to lay over the traffic spikes in the "exit only" road, when the gate was locked.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#224765
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Nov 13, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
Keith:
Here's a picture of you and, I think, Mary belaying "The Big Guy."
Love that shot of you doing aid!

Credit: PhilG
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle
Nov 13, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
Phil: Yes, that is she-None more pure of heart. Here's a Wiki pic of the World Peace Bridge. Good stuff off the right edge.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#224783
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Nov 14, 2011 - 01:25am PT
Is there a reason you guys are spelling it "Roubidoux"?
It's actually spelled Rubidoux......
henny

Social climber
The Past
Nov 14, 2011 - 03:08am PT
As yes, the downroad. Many the times driving up the downroad on closed days, especially after the spikes had become non-functional. It used to also be the scene of occasional sprints on open days, trying to make it to the halfway connector where you could get back on the uproad, hopefully before meeting someone driving down.

Thanks for the classic pictures. Good stuff. The aid pictures, would that be the route on Major? (top of the mountain, just under the cross) Sure sounds like it by the description.

Anybody ever do any of the routes on the bridge tower, up to and into the windows? Spooky stuff as I remember, especially crossing the band under the windows. It's been many years since those things were an option, with the windows being closed off by bars.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Nov 14, 2011 - 10:22am PT
I recall playing around on the bridge tower. In fact the first time I meet Robs Muir was on some glass-like problem to the right of the bridge. I remember him floating up the problem that neither my brother or I could do.
Iron Mtns: Sorry I missed you on my trip to SoCal. I'm going to try and talk Keith into going next year. I was spelling Rubidoux with an "o" because that was the way Largo spelled it. After all, who's going to disagree with Largo?
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