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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Always been my favorite place
.And still surprised how few people I see out there when I'm bouldering.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Thanks for the correction, Randisi.
TY
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Ahh yes, tumbling off of Autopilot.
Robs may remember the pitch I took off fairly high on that. Not quite sure how it was I didn't fall to the road.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Ah, yes, Steve. Popping off Autopilot from anywhere above head level is a dicey proposition. I do remember someone taking a high fall onto a pad laying on the sloping, wet, friable surface and taking a fast glissade all the way to the asphalt!
Here's a link to a very old animated GIF of the Pilot. Step by step.
The last part of the major crux on Teflon... (Posted elsewhere.)
Hey Phil... We wanna see those historic scans!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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If, by some remote chance, there are a few sandbag ratings at Rubidoux I would have to think those are the fault of sketchy. If memory serves me right he twisted our arms and made us downrate things while preparing for the contests.
More pictures please.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Nov 12, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
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Excuse my taking so long to post these photos. School work and getting the yard/garden ready for winter has taken all my free time.
Rob: I couldn't find very many slides of bouldering at Roubidoux. I guess we really didn't take that many pictures in those days (compared to today's 100 pics per day).
The following series is Jim Barker and Phil Haney top roping on the Joe Brown boulder. Anyone know what ever happened to Phil Haney?
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Nov 13, 2011 - 10:34am PT
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I'm guessing nobody knows what happened to Phil Haney?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 13, 2011 - 11:39am PT
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That is one of the Top 5 Rubidoux problems
Hell Craig, that sucker would be one of the top five problems anywhere. Broke my heart the first time I went to Roobie and saw all that freakin' paint.
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DonC
climber
CA
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Nov 13, 2011 - 11:45am PT
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These are great! I started bouldering at Roubidoux in the late '60s and don't have a single picture.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Nov 13, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
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A practice aid climb across a thin seam, placing the pins like nuts so as to avoid scarring the rock . Then up an expanding flake (bats used to fly out when disturbed) to an overhanging bolt ladder.
@henny - I do remember a goat while out with Haney once. No pix tho.
Thanx for the post Phil. Svenson might know Haney's whereabouts?
@DonC - good to hear from you.
Great times working on problems there over the years. We used to bring 2 short pieces of plywood in Paul's VW Bug to lay over the traffic spikes in the "exit only" road, when the gate was locked.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Nov 13, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
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Keith:
Here's a picture of you and, I think, Mary belaying "The Big Guy."
Love that shot of you doing aid!
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Nov 13, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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Phil: Yes, that is she-None more pure of heart. Here's a Wiki pic of the World Peace Bridge. Good stuff off the right edge.
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Nov 14, 2011 - 01:25am PT
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Is there a reason you guys are spelling it "Roubidoux"?
It's actually spelled Rubidoux......
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 14, 2011 - 03:08am PT
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As yes, the downroad. Many the times driving up the downroad on closed days, especially after the spikes had become non-functional. It used to also be the scene of occasional sprints on open days, trying to make it to the halfway connector where you could get back on the uproad, hopefully before meeting someone driving down.
Thanks for the classic pictures. Good stuff. The aid pictures, would that be the route on Major? (top of the mountain, just under the cross) Sure sounds like it by the description.
Anybody ever do any of the routes on the bridge tower, up to and into the windows? Spooky stuff as I remember, especially crossing the band under the windows. It's been many years since those things were an option, with the windows being closed off by bars.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Nov 14, 2011 - 10:22am PT
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I recall playing around on the bridge tower. In fact the first time I meet Robs Muir was on some glass-like problem to the right of the bridge. I remember him floating up the problem that neither my brother or I could do.
Iron Mtns: Sorry I missed you on my trip to SoCal. I'm going to try and talk Keith into going next year. I was spelling Rubidoux with an "o" because that was the way Largo spelled it. After all, who's going to disagree with Largo?
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Gary
climber
From the City That Dreams
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Nov 14, 2011 - 10:46am PT
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Really cool photos, all. The '70s are sort of embarrassing though, eh?
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CrackAddict
Trad climber
Canoga Park, CA
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Nov 14, 2011 - 04:19pm PT
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Wow, great thread. Thanks for posting Largo. Makes me want to go back and flail on some of those problems.
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Nov 15, 2011 - 10:53am PT
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Iron Mtns: Sorry I missed you on my trip to SoCal. I'm going to try and talk Keith into going next year. I was spelling Rubidoux with an "o" because that was the way Largo spelled it. After all, who's going to disagree with Largo?
Ha ha, no worries Phil! I really would like to climb with you and Keith again. The trip to Washington is still something I look back on with a great deal of happiness and I learned so much from you guys on that trip.
As far as the spelling goes, not trying to be a smartass. I noticed Largo always spells it that way and I was curious why he did so (perhaps i'm missing something?)
I live pretty damn close to Rubidoux and I think it's time to get out there and start pulling again, it's been way too long......
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