Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic |
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2011 - 02:13am PT
|
What are your favorite finger or hand-cracks in Tahoe Area. I like Nova Express at Donner and Dominion in Sugarloaf a lot. Like Dinkum crack in Cosumnes too, although it is very short.
What do you guys like?
|
|
enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite, ca
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 02:19am PT
|
The Fracture is cool.
|
|
BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 02:27am PT
|
Best finger crack at Donner would be Babylon. Best hand crack at the Leap Roofer madness to Eagles Nest. Best fingers Dog Party?
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 02:50am PT
|
Turning Point, Roberts Crack and Leaner and Meaner at Phantom Spires.
One of These Days at Woodfords
Freak Show, Batmans Nightmare, April Fools, Vanishing Point, The Gamoke (jamoke if you want to spell it right), Drug Crazed, Manic Depressive, Hospital Corner, Tombstone Terror, North Face, Cross Town Traffic, God of Thunder and Silly Willy Crack at Lovers Leap.
Finger Locks, East Corner, Taurus and The Fracture at Sugarloaf.
Space Walk, Buster Brown at Eagle Creek.
Essence and Velvet Gloves at Wrights Lake.
Unknown 5.9, Sulphur and Sun Tzu at Eagle Rock.
Tons of sh#t at Donner.
Edited to add; Dog Party is nowhere near the best finger crack at the leap. Silly Willy and Freakshow blow it away. Dog Party is more of a lieback anyway... IMO.
|
|
Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 09:44am PT
|
shagmaster at silverado.
|
|
Aerili
climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
|
In Donner, I like Nova Express (hands) and Black September (hands and fingers). Pitch 1 of One Hand Clapping is good too.
In South Lake, I think Sinbad Herbert at the Leap has pretty slammer hands, as does parts of p2 of April Fools and Traveler Buttress. Pony Express has great hands (Sugarloaf).
Fingerlock and The Fracture (Sugarloaf) are definitely some of the best fingers around.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
|
Sinbad Herbert at the Leap does have some amazing hands on P1, and Surrealistic Pillar direct too.
But did anyone try a 5.10c or a 5.9 (var) of a crack on Dear John Buttress at the Leap? That climb is amazing. Such great quality. Really want to get out to the leap for these 3 next year.
WML Fear of Flying as a finger crack? It does have some finger locks but it is more stemming and smearing with using the finger lock for balance.
Nova express!!!! WOOOOOOOOOOOO That was one of my first times ever climbing outside (last year), back when I did not know how to hand jam or anything. Back than I could not understand how is it possible that I can't TR a 5.9+ LOL Need to go back and hop on it see how I do now.
|
|
tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
|
Another vote for one hand clapping, I did quite a few climbs at Donner but that was the most memorible. I guess I liked it as I did it 2-3 times with partners and roped soloed it a few times.
Even though it's only the first pitch of the climb that has the hand crank, the second pitch is pretty memorible when you work you way up the ramp, then step out exposed on that peanut foot hold, then work your way up to the belay.
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
|
Imaginary Voyage hardly has a hand or finger crack on it.
Most of it is stemming and smearing on Imaginary footholds with imaginary gear under foot. Probably better protected if I had brought RP's. The short little last pitch being the exception.
Black Wall has a bunch of good hand and finger cracks, they're all short though. Much like most of the stuff at Woodfords, it's hard to include them as being "one of the best" in the Tahoe area because of that. One Hand Clapping being the exception there. Full Moon is kinda long too I guess. OOTD at Woodfords being an exception there too as it's about 120ft which is just barely what I consider a true "full pitch".
|
|
kwit
climber
california
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
|
Vitaliy: I've done both the 5.9 and the 10c variations on that Dear John Buttress crack. I think it they're variations on the first bit of God of Thunder. The 10c was my first (okay, my only) at the grade--perfect hands to perfect ringlocks. Short, but so sweet.
|
|
adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
|
Here are a couple I would recommend based on the grades of the examples you liked.
ALL AMERICAN HAND CRACK .10A DONNER/BABYLON CRAG (A GREAT two pitch 5.8/5.9-, (first pitch is mostly a hand crack) is right around the corner as well. Almost as good as One Hand Clapping imo)
PLACID HALLUCINATION 5.9+ DONNER/CUCKO'S NEST (hand crack)
POWERAGE .10a/.10b var DONNER/THE PERCH (hand/finger crack)
(These, and many other (1,300) obscure Tahoe routes, can be found in the new North Tahoe guidebook available from the CAMP 4 PRESS website at camp4press.com)
Edit: And lots of stuff at Woodfords............Gotta find someone to show you around though....
|
|
bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
|
yeah, all the good cracks are in north lake.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2011 - 03:56pm PT
|
WML P1 of One Hand Clapping is part of the plan for this weekend...hopefully : )
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
|
Calaveras Dome
Wall of the Worlds p1
Dynamite Crack
Gemini Cracks
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 01:27am PT
|
Dynamite Crack???
Silk Road, Rainbow Arch and Laughing Hyena are some great multi pitch routes consisting of many splitter cracks at Cal Domes. There are many more.
|
|
drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 01:45am PT
|
monkey paws + panic in detroit (although more of a layback/gaston) - donner
the fracture + fingerlock - sugarloaf
golds gym (boulder prob) - echo view
|
|
bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 02:07am PT
|
Are the Cal Domes accessible in the winter?
I thought I recalled reading somewhere here they were and it's a great spot for winter climbing.
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 03:30pm PT
|
^^^
Yes!
Tiger Creek Rd. It's on the map.
Drove in that way last year... not bad. 4WD not needed..... at all.
|
|
sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
|
C'Mon mon... give a brutha some PICS!!
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
|
Stewart, are we talking Oly Valley Silverado? That would be different.
|
|
Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
|
bingo, brandon. or shirley canyon walls if you want a more precise name.
and the shagmaster has got to be in the top ten, sorry no pics.
cheers stewart
|
|
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
|
That sounds fun....
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
|
i'll drop some jaypee geez,
cause im sitting today and yesterday
and tomorrow,
hands,
5.9 fingers
fingers
mungy asse crack in tahoe
crack thru hell's gate
no cracks not in tahoe
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
|
Norwegian where is that wide crack?
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
|
I have photos of the FA of Babylon, I'll post them when I get home.
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
|
Please do.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
|
that wide crack is the
first pitch on the direct n.w. face of 1/2 empty dome
|
|
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
|
You know what that means vitals?
Yep. Gotta free the Reg NW with me.
|
|
adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
|
Goin to climb All American Finger Crack tomorrow... Such a pretty line!!
|
|
wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
|
Gasoline Ally at Rainbow is beautiful... Nobody climbs there and weather is always nice. Can have a beer at the lodge after your done. Other nice climbs there as well.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
|
lean and mean is awesome
|
|
Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
|
One Of These Days - Woodfords!
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
|
Guess have to add Hospital Corner too. That corner is awesome. Too bad it is not much longer.
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
|
My butt has the finest crack in the land
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
|
My butt has the finest crack in the land
Is the entrance move the crux? Your boyfriend must be a happy guy : )
|
|
Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
|
I really enjoyed Black September.
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
|
Without a doubt the best i've ever done in the area is the 2nd, 4th 5th 6th 7th pitch of Rare Gem on Indian Rock, for shear quantity of stellar tips, finger, off hands , hands, fist and offwidth. Many of the pitches on par with the best of the best quality already mentioned in this thread.Unfortunately because of the long approach and shattered appearance of the crag i don"t think it has ever been, nor likely ever will be repeated. All fairly moderate by todays standards and surely no part over 5.10c.Of course it still doesn"t measure up to some of the crack lines at Calaveras but i consider that a wee bit out of the Tahoe area.
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Sep 23, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
|
Photos from the FA of Babylon
I believe this was the crux.
moving up
Notice the absence of cams and the EBs.
|
|
adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
|
|
|
Sep 24, 2012 - 12:10am PT
|
Babylon should be on every climbers, whom has the skill to climb sustained 5.12 finger/hand cracks, tick list. I believe it was one of the three hardest crack climbs in the world when Mark sent it.
Many 5.13 sport climbers have no chance on this old school 5.12c classic. If you enjoy crack climbing at that level, it is not to be missed. Still a testpiece for the local up and comer trad climbers. No cams and in EBs and a swami belt! Not many around that would be willing to repeat in that style. That was a proud, bitd 1979, first ascent.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Sep 24, 2012 - 11:00am PT
|
Babylon is definitely worth a stop. I climbed it in the mid 90's first on toprope.
Not as continuously crack-like as say a desert crack, other techniques are involved. Good times!
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Sep 24, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
|
Its worth the bushwhack, you get perched on the bush pretty well to start belay, its not too bad.
|
|
Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, Co
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2013 - 09:46am PT
|
Bump for Tahoe!
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 10:27am PT
|
Rare Gem on Indian Rock
So how do I find more info on this guy?
|
|
Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2013 - 11:42am PT
|
Seams To Me (10c) @ ELC
One Of These Days @ Woodfords
HEY RON,
I saw you mentioned All American Finger Crack. I've looked but never found. Can you give me detailed directions?
-Friedo
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
|
It's been said but Panic, manic, monkeypaws, Karl's roof and Babylon are the best I've done up there.
Sanitation crack is good too. Ed and fred(?) is great for the grade as well
Correction edit; Rick and Eric's
|
|
Red Wing
climber
California
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
|
Star Wall Crack 5.13a, Star Wall
Bucko 5.12b, Star Wall
|
|
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
|
Didn't read the whole thread, so not sure if it was mentioned...?
Anyone ever go out behind the far back side Caples Lake to the series of routes put up about 15+ years ago by Troy Corliss and friends?
There is a stunning crack out there that was billed as the "best 5.12 crack in the Tahoe region" at the time. As memory serves it is 120 feet long and overhangs about 15 or 20 feet. It starts on a right side of a wide and narrowing chimney bolt protected face climbing fro 25 feet until the apex where the crack starts in earnest. most of the difficulties are hand crack moves. Continuous. Prob 12a. It's easy to TR and well worth the hike out. North facing. It can be seen from 88 if you look carefully across the lake and spot the tower it splits from 1.5 mile away. I went out twice to try it and approached from Kirkwood ski area straight up and then down the back side to the base of one of the backside ski lifts an perhaps a 1/2 mile beyond. Or hike around the lake
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
|
Ron, do you by an chance have approach directions to Indian rock? Is there a photo of a line anywhere?
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
|
Thank you homez!
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
|
The Green Tongue. Woodfords
|
|
mike a.
Sport climber
ca
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
|
aja crack, one of the best for it's rating :-) and the first pitch of cal dome's, wall of the worlds.
|
|
Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
|
Ron, Does section 20 go right past the Stomach?
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
|
I like this thread. Showcases the embarrassment of riches around here.
|
|
Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
|
Gold Member out at warren lake is one of the best in the tahoe area at 12+/13-.
Grand Illusion is by far the coolest hand and finger crack in tahoe though.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:53am PT
|
What about the Mohel at woodcutters?
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:59am PT
|
yeah, cool.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!