Lucille Pah! Meet The Fish on Forked Lightning Crack

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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
Mick Ryan

Trad climber
The Peaks
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 1, 2011 - 05:57am PT

Forked Lightning Crack

24m. The striking zig-zag crack is the best known route in the quarry and remains one of Grit's 'big-ticks'. Climb easily to the base of the crack, stuff in some gear and go. Although mighty intimidating, the climbing is a little easier than it appears from below and much of the crack is a useful width. The short horizontal sections offer runners and holds.
FA. Don Whillans 1961



Fish Finder

Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
Oct 1, 2011 - 09:01am PT

The caption on the top photo should read

"God help me from your people!"

Mussy still has "it" . If "it" is hand shredding .
Gary Carpenter

climber
SF Bay Area
Oct 1, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
insufficient chalk!!
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Oct 1, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
How long has it been since you seen Russ?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 1, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
good to see you at the FaceLift, chez though I was a bit distracted...

and anxious to start reconnecting with some of the OW gang, though my days on the harder stuff have probably passed... the only thing I can match up with Fish is middle body girth...

way to go old man!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Oct 1, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
The caption should read:

Fish Tackles The Gnar, On A TOPROPE!!!!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Oct 1, 2011 - 04:42pm PT
Damn, that's forkin' RAD brah!!!
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Oct 1, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
Gnarly gobies! But not suprising.

Nice one Russ!

Steve
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Oct 1, 2011 - 06:02pm PT
Once upon a time I read a piece (probably in Mountain Magazine) by Robbins about a visiting Brit. (Or perhaps it was Royal visiting England... either way...) Royal waltzed up a crack and the Brit was set to follow. As the he topped out next to Royal the Brit lad's hands were torn, tattered and dripping blood.

Royal calmly states, "You can always tell a good crack climber by his hands."

The Brit returned, "Lots of blood eh?"

Royal countered, "Nope. No blood."

The tale went something like that anyway.

EDIT: SEE BELOW
jbaker

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
Oct 1, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
"You know, back in the states we can tell a good aid man by his hands."
"Lots of scars?" Patey said to Robbins, hopefully.

"No scars."
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Oct 1, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
That's it! Sorry for my vaguely paraphrased attempt.
WBraun

climber
Oct 1, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
Did Russ get spanked on that Forked Lightning Crack?
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Oct 1, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
Geez Russ - you're looking like a CO climber and all, what with the liebacking and gobies ... what's up with that...????

Paul
wildone

climber
Troy, MT
Oct 1, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
Don Whillans needed a wheelbarrow to carry his balls around. It's true.
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Oct 1, 2011 - 09:22pm PT
Don't be silly you armchair fairies.... no tape, stacked the crux, leg in for style points and no hands rests. Most of the carnage was from the only hand jamb in Spain like two days before, reopened.

And isn't that how real routes are done? One man leads, the other guy follows and takes out the gear? Spanked? pffft.... get real. Standard follow.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 3, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
Did you climb that? or Lieback it, Russ?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 3, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
Russ, how hard would you say it is? Beyond "XS", that is?
Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
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